2 Apparel Online 3 Apparel Online India

Apparel Online India 4 4 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 5 Apparel Online India CONTENT Vol. XIX ISSUE 6 JUNE 16-30, 2016

World Wrap 32 Fashion Hipsters on the rise Fashion trends are changing continuously and bringing along with them loyalists or a consumer class that are aping these trends... p12 FFT TRENDS Première Vision 2016: In review: Fabric Trends – Sustainability Tex-file S/S ’17 IndustriALL creates global Vibrant industry platform for worker unions in Tamil Nadu confident of In the last few months many international growth A recent visit to Coimbatore conferences with focus on labour welfare, was an exhilarating experience. Not only are improvement in supply chain, industry-wide the spinners of the region talking of growth,.. collective bargaining, organizing workers p24 and living wages and such allied issues have taken place at the international level... p14

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Burning Issue A series of reports defame Indian apparel exporters

26 Value Addition Top Trends in Buyer Sourcing S/S ’17 Collections H2F have witnessed a variety of value addition Buying for fall season on Heimtextil India techniques and embellishments in the last the rise India has never been seen as a positioned as a few seasons, with techniques like jacquard... sourcing destination for Autumn/Winter and p36 every exporter has concentrated almost on comprehensive show for auto mode on Spring/Summer orders... Home Organized by p20 Messe Frankfurt, the stage is all set for the second edition of Heimtextil India, to be held in New Delhi (at the Pragati Maidan, covering an area of 8,000 sq.m.) from 22nd to 24th June...

6 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 7 Apparel Online India www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 7 FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’s DESK…

Sometimes I look back and wonder what prompted me to start a magazine only EDITORIAL TEAM for the garment export industry…; was it a well thought out and planned project, or just a moment of arising passion… I still don’t know the answer, but today I EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Deepak Mohindra am extremely happy and satisfied that I took that one bold step which is now a Ila Saxena global platform for me – right from India to Bangladesh and now Vietnam. Where EDITOR else…? I have little idea today, but it will certainly happen, as I slow myself down COPY EDITOR Veereshwar Sobti to take one step at a time. Sahil Sehgal It took us nearly 10 years to make a mark in India as a credible magazine, read ASST. COPY EDITOR and appreciated by both industry (exporters and buyers) and policy makers, ASST. EDITOR-NEWS Dheeraj Tagra while it took only 4 years to achieve the same status in Bangladesh. Encouraged by the response and upbeat of future growth prospects in the region, I am proud ASST. EDITOR Neha Chhetri to announce the launch of Apparel Online in Vietnam, a logical choice given the buzz around the country. SR. CORRESPONDENT-TEXTILES Sanjogeeta Ojha All these three countries are great apparel sourcing destinations to the world SR. CORRESPONDENT-FASHION Kalita Lamba and Apparel Online wishes to provide an honest, sincere and accurate information source to the entire supply chain partners in the industry. SR. EXECUTIVE-ADVERTISING D K Chugh Each manufacturing destination has its own strength, creating niches of Raj Kumar Chahal expertise. While India is famous for its small quantities value-added products, CREATIVE TEAM Peeush Jauhari Bangladesh is known for its trousers and shirts in large quantities, and Satyapal Bisht Vietnam has earned reputation for its excellence in structured and outerwear Deepak Panwar products. Though each country is expanding their product categories and while Bangladesh is looking at lingerie and leather products, Vietnam has its eyes set PHOTO EDITOR Himanshu Kumar on the denim segment, which is yet to be fully exploited to its potential. OPERATION DIRECTOR Mayank Mohindra Vietnam is now one of the leading investment destinations in Asia and accounts for 20 per cent of Asia’s exports to the US, and if present trends continue, it PUBLISHER & will have a market share of more than 30 per cent by 2020. A major boost to MANAGING DIRECTOR Renu Mohindra the sector is expected after ratification of the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) agreement that could boost Vietnam’s GDP growth by 11 per cent as well as HEAD OFFICE boost its exports by 28 per cent. Apparel Resources Private Limited To be eligible for TPP’s favourable tax rates, Vietnam’s textile and garment B-32, South Extension-1, exports have to meet the ‘ forward’ rule of origin. That’s why Vietnam has New Delhi-110 049 (India) welcomed foreign-invested projects in and industries. Recently Phone: 91-11-47390000 a delegation from Vietnam was in Coimbatore to encourage spinners and E-mail: [email protected]; textile companies to invest in Vietnam. Advantages for Indian firms investing in [email protected] Vietnam include, fairly developed infrastructure, abundant and cheap workforce, Web associate: www.apparelresources.com and stable Government. Specific textile projects are calling for investment in central Vietnam with advantages relating to location, procedures and services PRINTING supporting investment in industrial parks. TARA ART PRINTERS PVT. LTD. With so much in the offering, it will be an interesting market to follow for B-4, Hans Bhawan, B.S. Zafar Marg, Apparel Online… I am sure that it will require even lesser time to be the top read New Delhi-110002 Tel: 23378626, 23379686 and used magazine in Vietnam, because Apparel Online is an already established and proven platform for industry players to express their views and share opinions on variety of subjects for a smooth and transparent business environment. SUBSCRIPTION ADVERTISEMENT GENERAL ENQUIRY ENQUIRY ENQUIRY I will, from time to time, bring you articles of various manufacturers/exporters +91-11-47390000 +91-11-9811088666 +91-11-47390000 and also buyers/retailers/brands and trading houses from other countries to subscribe@ rani@ contact@ allow you to build meaningful business relationships through shared learning. apparelresources.com apparelresources.com apparelresources.com

8 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 9 9 Apparel Online India MIND TREE

In the last few weeks a number of reports from various NGOs and other agencies claiming to be working for the benefit of the industry have been released. These reports indicate that there are still violations of international labour standards in the Indian apparel industry. Many exporters have been named and they all claim that the reports are untrue and present a negative picture... Do you think that such reports are ‘unfair’ to the industry, what should be the course of action to counter these reports?

Bangalore and is working against them. Anannya, tomorrow there will be many Virender K Jha, President, Simultaneously, they are misleading other more, so be united and come strongly AIDER NGO, Gurgaon international bodies with false pictures against negative publicity. and wrong information. Every NGO I am in touch with top officials of an Indian Anannya Bhattacharjee, Asia Floor Wage should keep in mind that if it can’t create association to counter such reports as well Alliance (AFWA) and its alliances like employment, it does not have any right as organizations. Here, one can learn from

Q-and-A SLD… are working for their personal to close any factory or bring such reports Bangladesh and their various stakeholders interest. They should tell us what they are which can create negative impact. of garment industry, as they are united and doing for workers’ welfare. We are doing Buyers/brands or Indian exporters strongly working as a collective group. a lot of seminars, street plays, running should not fear from such reports or training centres, etc. for the garment pieces of news appearing very often in workers and their children. Why don’t they Rakesh Vaid, MD, international media. They should come do the same? All their negative initiatives to a common platform; involve workers, Usha Fabs, Gurgaon become the reason for the closure of Ministry of Textiles, Indian media, like- The entire industry has to work with pro- many companies including Vibha Global, minded people, etc. AEPC can take a active approach on this serious issue as Gurgaon; the workers of this factory had lead with NGOs like us and others who funds are coming from some countries to struggle a lot to get employment in are pro industry, as well as working for to damage the reputation of the Indian other factories. This caucus has selected the welfare of workers. Exporters have apparel export industry. As a matter of a few big companies of Delhi-NCR and to understand that today there is one fact, I personally feel that AEPC and

10 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com MIND TREE

Ministry of Textiles should come forward following compliance and law of the POST YOUR COMMENTS and share the Indian exporters’ aspect land completely, so there must be some www.apparelresources.com with the media. The buyers/brands audit ‘misunderstanding’ by the NGOs involved [email protected] Indian factories, so they know that their in these reports. I feel that all these Indian suppliers are fully compliant, and NGOs, exporters and associations should therefore in this perspective such reports sit together and discuss on the issues don’t harm our industry. On the other whatever highlighted in these reports. NEXT MINDTREE QUESTION side, these kinds of reports do become This is the only way to solve the so-called the reason of misrepresentation of issues. I must say that Indian NGOs Many buyers have indicated realities to some buyers/end-customers. should think that issues related to Indian that business for Fall season has As reports defy the image of companies/ companies should get solved within India. the overall industry, business will improved from India…, do you naturally be impacted and ultimately it agree? Has your company also will impact every stakeholder of industry, Chandrima Chatterjee, Advisor, seen an increase in business for and the worker will be the most affected. Fall season… If yes, what are the Don’t do anything as propaganda. AEPC, Gurgaon products and fabrics that are in Workers associated with such NGOs AEPC has some strategic planning in the or having soft corner for them, have to pipeline, and the first of these is to create demand, and if no, where is the understand they are cutting their own feet a good practice manual for the industry. constraint? by this baseless negative publicity. We will see what maximum AEPC can do in this regard; but I must say that issues Lalit Thukral, President, like wages and overtime is decided in Noida Apparel Export Cluster, India at the policy level and in a very Noida democratic way. So, how and why some NGOs are objecting on this, is something I have not seen the reports, but as difficult to apprehend. Whatever wages most of the exporters mentioned in are being paid in India, is comparatively these reports are socially audited and better to its competitor countries.

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 11 WORLD WRAP

Fashion trends are changing continuously and bringing along with them loyalists or a consumer class that are aping these trends. One such Fashion being the Fashion Hipsters, the new consumers who in their self-image and purchasing habits are not driven by luxury brands but rather associate Hipsters themselves with hipsterism, including irony, camp and inside humour. One can easily identify them as their attire is effortlessly assembled, which could on the rise include distressed denims from Urban CHALLENGING RETAILERS AND BRANDS Outfitters brands costing US $ 80, paired with US $ 2 T-shirt from the local store… They care two hoots what people think and are best left to decide their own style…, a challenge for retailers and brands!

Conscious youngsters stress on self-image through their clothing

young, self-conscious, hipster appeal. Easily recognizable and well-informed fashion through their logos that possess a Ainsider, though having disposable sense of irony and campy humour, incomes to purchase any luxury Vetements quickly realized that brand, these hipsters still favour consumers were favouring such experimentation and keep the look items and quickly went on to release simple and easy. Brands such as their next collection that had items American Apparel, Keds, Vans, Fred with logo appropriation such as the Perry, Levi’s, The Mountain, Acne, Champion, the American Sweatshirt Jeremy Scott, Pendleton, Oak, Urban maker; Everlast, the maker of the Outfitter, Converse, H&M, Topshop, boxing gear and DHL, the shipping Diesel, Asos.com, Bershka, J Brand, company to name a few. “Irony etc. are a few retailers/brands is [the] draw. If you haven’t quite favoured by these self-respecting honed yours to Jane Austen Wattage, hipsters for whom fashion resonates then how about wearing that DHL with their self-imagery. One of the T-shirt…, and telling everyone you most famous labels during the bought it first,” commented Lisa past Paris Fashion Week turned Armstrong, the Fashion Director, out to be Vetements which is easily London’s Telegraph newspaper. recognized by its logo-ed raincoats Similarly, Urban Outfitters that and sweatshirts. In their first has successfully marketed itself collection, two years back, Vetements for hipster fashion to masses, has came out with a range of product collections consisting of rompers and offerings, priced at US $ 1400, which fedoras, and has specifically designed could only be afforded by a few. But collections targeting the millennials a year back they introduced two new including the hipsters who like to items – the cut up Antwerp T-shirt attend music festivals like Coachella, and an oversized raincoat resembling prefers to camp and in general the ones security personnel wear likes to be active both indoors and at stadiums – that sold out in a outdoors. Apart from this, the retailer matter of weeks. has invested heavily in online and A relatively low-pricing, enabled mobile platforms to engage shoppers young people to buy into Vetements and to turn around its sales. The collections including jackets that had brand is also trying to win its hipster characteristics required for fashion consumers through a ‘without walls’

12 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com WORLD WRAP

store concept that aims to engage the young adult consumers with active lifestyle products housed in compelling environment. But one of the most common challenges with the consumer class that always remains is how to keep them engaged, as is the case with Fashion Hipsters, who tend to move on quickly as they always like to be ahead of the masses. Though brands are coming up with interesting concepts, infusing fresh energy into fashion, but hipsters tend to quickly move over due to logo fatigue and also due to the masses following similar trends. Nonetheless, a huge number of retailers are incorporating strategies to target this rising consumer class, which is not just restricted to the US alone, but is making its presence across the globe. WHO IS A HIPSTER? What does A ‘hipster’ is defined by the English Dictionary as a person who the hipster follows the latest trends and fashions, especially those regarded as being consumer outside the cultural mainstream. They portray deep anxieties prefer? about consumer society and mass • The hipsters prefer wide- culture and are a group sceptical neck T-shirt that plunges of marketing and advertising. towards the naval, Therefore, they seek their own way showcasing the hipster’s of defining the fashions of the times, tattoos. largely independent of the status quo, putting a gap between themselves • Round like John Lennon and the rest of society. It is important ironic glasses are favoured to know that the hipsters differ from by this consumer class country to country and thereby it • The baggy and skinny fit makes it extremely hard for brands to denims are a favourite tailor their products towards them. • Eye-catchy prints such as the What’s considered cool and trendy Navajo prints, the Hawaiian in Berlin, for instance, does not tropical flora are a few that have the same effect in London, while what’s regarded as chic and gain the attention of these fashionable in Paris is far from the hipsters. case in Stockholm. Hipsters in Berlin • shirts are fans of printed bags and • Bucket hats thick-rimmed geek chic glasses, whereas in Sydney, Ray-Bans are the • Beat-up converse glasses of choice. Hipsters in Tokyo • Overalls favour footwear that is individual • Suspenders and one of a kind, while those in Stockholm actually prefer old- • Backpacks school trainers from major brands • Tiny denim cut-offs like Nike and Adidas. New York • Bright beanies hipsters, in comparison, like to wear clothes with no great regard for • Muscle tanks with very low aesthetic cohesion. Farmer caps, armholes plastic glasses and bright belts are • Hawaiian shirts particularly popular.

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 13 SUSTAINABILITY

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IndustriALL creates ESSENTIALS At a recent workshop in , IndustriALL global union affiliates global platform for and Swedish Non- profit Organization Union to Union, worker unions discussed strategies and shared experiences of organising precarious workers in the country’s textile, apparel and leather n the last few months many Garment & Leather Workers’ we can do more in India.” The event sector. Organizations international conferences with focus Federation (INGLWF), Coimbatore was also attended by well-known like SEWA, NTGLWF, Ion labour welfare, improvement in and Ramkishore Tripathi, General brands like H&M and Inditex and one HMS NCR, INTWF, supply chain, industry-wide collective Secretary, Textile Workers of the leading topics of discussion INGLWF, TWFI and bargaining, organizing workers and Federation of India, Delhi, at the two-day conference was INTUC Kolkata living wages and such allied issues participated at the event. “The ‘confronting global capital’. During a participated at this have taken place at the international conference was really good. We panel debate with union leaders as event. It was observed level. Two of the most significant of highlighted the problems of the textile well as company representatives from that winning workers’ these were the. 105th session of the and leather industry’s workers in H&M and Inditex, global framework confidence in unions International Labour Conference and India like low wage, contract workers, agreements (GFAs) were discussed is a major challenge IndustriALL’s first world conference unsafe working condition, issues of as a way of boosting global union faced by organizers. on the global textile and garment job security, occupational health and solidarity. IndustriALL has three GFAs Apoorva Kaiwar, industry which were a great platform safety and social security issues in in the sector, of which two are with Regional Secretary of for labour unions across different group meetings with many experts. H&M and Inditex respectively. These IndustriAll was of the manufacturing bases to share Pollution from industries was also two GFAs together protect the rights opinion, “The textile, experiences and probable solutions. our focus at this international forum,” of 3 million garment workers. garment and leather The conference held by IndustriALL, shared Ramkishore. industry is witnessing Speaking at the conference, saw around 135 representatives from a rapid growth, but Sharing his thoughts with Rob Wayss, Executive Director of over 60 textile and garment unions the workforce is facing Apparel Online, Jaganathan said, the Accord on Fire and Building from 35 countries that came together the serious challenges “Issues are almost similar across the Safety in Bangladesh, said that the in Frankfurt to discuss the challenges of precarious jobs. world but solutions may be different, Accord is changing how the garment and achievements. They talked about Migrant, young and so basically we tried to figure out how industry operates. He further added, the issues gained from each other’s women workers are the other associations are handling “It (Accord) is real and it has teeth. It experience. becoming the face of the similar workers-related issues, is protecting workers in Bangladesh’s the workforce in this From India, V.R. Jaganathan, be it the apparel hub of Vietnam, garment industry. Till date, more than sector and we need to General Secretary, Indian National Cambodia, Bangladesh or any other. 1,600 factories have been inspected organize them in a way Textile Workers Federation We shared how buyers are supporting and many vital safety measures have suitable to the next (INTWF) & Indian National worker welfare initiatives and what been taken.” Elaborating on the issue, generation workers.” Christina Hajagos, Textile Director Social security for at IndustriALL said, “As unions, precarious workers was we have fought and we have risen a key demand discussed from tragedy. A call to move beyond at the workshop as in corporate social responsibility must be the absence of secure the legacy of Rana Plaza.” Presenting work, union intervention IndustriALL’s living wage strategy, in enabling precarious which aims to introduce industry-wide workers to obtain collective bargaining linked to the Government-sponsored garment brands’ purchasing power, social security schemes, Jenny Holdcroft, IndustriALL Policy which have made a Director, said that it is only when positive impact in brands and trade unions work together organizing the workers. that real change can be made.

14 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com SUSTAINABILITY

“Fashion for A/W globally has undertaken a dramatic redefining as today the need for brushed and heavy fabrics or -based product is not the requirement.” – Vivek Bhatnagar, CEO, Fusion Consulting Services p21

New partnership for ‘Sustainability in Textiles'

One of the world’s leading Both the organisations are institutions in textile, the now accepting proposals on Textile Institute, UK and a interesting topics such as leading independent publisher of sustainable textile products and academic and professional books eco textiles; human rights and and journals, Greenleaf Publishing, working conditions of people UK, have recently joined hands employed within the textile to produce a new book series industry; social responsibility titled ‘Sustainability in Textiles’. and corporate governance within Currently, sustainability is one the industry; and in different of the key aspects concerning geographic regions, sustainability the industry as being the second within the textile supply chain, largest industry in the world, institutions, structures and textiles and textile production has organisations and its impact on a huge impact on the environment. the .

KappAhl joins hands with Canopy

The Swedish fashion chain, it by 2017. “Our involvement in that are important for climate KappAhl has recently joined Canopy is part of our ambition and biodiversity. KappAhl aims hands with the international to use only cellulose based fibres to eliminate the use of cellulose- environmental organization KappAhl aims from sustainable forestry. It based fibres from endangered Canopy to preserve natural also contributes to our ambition forests around the world. Apart resources like ancient forests, to eliminate the to continuously increase the from KappAhl, international species and climate as a part proportion of sustainable materials brands such as Zara-Inditex, of its sustainability efforts. use of cellulose- H&M, Levis Strauss & Co., Marks in our range,” states Eva Kindgren Through this collaboration, the & Spencer, Arcadia Group, Lindex based fibres from de Boer, Sustainability Manager – brand will source lyocell, viscose, Stella McCartney, Eileen Fisher, Production, KappAhl. modal and other cellulosic fibres endangered forests prAna, lululemon athletica, Artizia only from suppliers approved around the world. According to Canopy’s estimates, and Patagonia, are committed to by Canopy, which the Swedish about one-third of cellulose fibres protect the endangered forests retailer plans to fully implement come from endangered forests along with Canopy.

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 15 BURNING ISSUE

HAVE YOUR SAY BREAKING NEWS Tell us your news by emailing at To read the latest sustainability news, go to [email protected] http://news.apparelresources.com/sustainability-news/

A series of reports defame Indian apparel exporters Reports released by Asia Floor Wage Alliance

32 Indian exporters named in 3 reports released back-to-back

he reports released by AFWA, training serious allegations on apparelT exports, pin pointed general as well as company-specific workers’ rights violations. On investigation, many of these exporters profoundly claimed that they never worked with the aforementioned brands and were clueless as to why their names appeared in the reports. Some of the exporters mentioned in these reports are untraceable and no reference could be found even on the . Till the writing of the story, Ministry of Textiles was also not aware about these reports and even AEPC got to know about these reports from Apparel Online. The Indian leg of all these 3 reports have been edited by AFWA Coordinator, Anannya Bhattacharjee, On the surface, it would prima facie seem that there is a conspiracy to defame and ground work has been done Indian apparel exporters’ image at the international level, why and what is the by her team. Recommendations for the ILO at the International Labour reality behind the action is something that is really bothering the industry now. Conference, 2016 were formulated by Though in the past also reports have been brought out questioning Indian a group of organizations, including the International Asia Floor Wage Alliance, exporters and textile companies on how they are treating their workers, The Jobs with Justice (US), National Guest Workers’ Alliance (US), and Society for Asia Floor Wage Alliance (AFWA), a coalition of trade unions and labour rights Labour and Development (India). groups, has released 3 reports in less than a month covering 32 Indian suppliers claiming to be working with H&M, GAP and Walmart, raising many eyebrows… OBJECTIONS TO THE In the last few days, the activities of these NGOs and other so-called labour METHODOLOGY OF CREATING THE REPORTS associations have been increased with many press releases, videos and other • In metro cities like Delhi-NCR, a lot material being circulated on the web… In such a situation it became important of operators don’t even know their to give a befitting reply to such reports/associations. factory/company’s name and they identify it with just the addresses, so how can one claim violations without proper identification of the worker and his company, by talking to him outside the premises. • How can one justify or mention a company’s name with serious

16 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com BURNING ISSUE

“The aim is to use everybody’s intelligence to sustain in a cooperative competition.” – Srihari Balakrishnan, President – KG Fabriks and Director, ITF. p25

How can one In a scenario How can one justify or mention No one from where there is a claim violations a company’s the AFWA dearth of skilled without proper name with serious approached workers, how identification allegations just companies can a worker of the worker by the interview with their be ready to and his of one or few findings… work even if he company...? workers..?. is paid less…?

allegations just by the interview bring workers from their villages. garment exporters and India in of one or few workers. In third They even give better compensation, general. One of the biggest surprises report, 4 companies are mentioned a message which is posted on the ESSENTIALS of these reports was that many on the basis of talking to a single buses to attract workers. exporters have never worked with that worker, while 9 companies are those • Asking workers randomly if they Apparel Online particular buyer which is mentioned where 2 workers were interviewed. like their workplace is ridiculous, approached in the report. Gajraj Singh, GM – HR Universal Fashions is mentioned & ADM, Pyoginam denied that it except for maybe Google and Anannya in the report but not even a single the like companies… Does any ever worked with GAP, while Sanjay worker was interviewed. In other other workplace ever appeal to its Bhattacharjee Jain of Opera Clothing, too countries, substantial numbers employees…; and to be a Google and SLD on why denied ever working with Walmart. of workers in each company were there are many constraints for the they published Same is the case of Shruti Mangla of interviewed. apparel industry! Orion Conmerx as she said that her • Third report is based upon research one-sided views company does not work with H&M and on violations of international labour in all the three never has! standards in Walmart garment GENERAL ALLEGATIONS reports, and that Commenting on the report, production factories conducted Yudhishthira Kapur, MD, Maharani In reference to working conditions why they did not between December 2012 and of India says, “The intention of in India, the general (not specific to May 2016. There is no follow-up consider the views publishing such reports should be to an individual company) allegations on improvement done after first of the alleged bring a positive change in workers’ of these reports includes so-called analysis during the period, which rights and not mere criticism. We as violations of international labour party before is misleading… How can a report a company are receptive to views/ standards like intensive labour, publishing such a come out in end of May if conditions comments and are always willing to exploitation and abuse, non-payment were verified in May only? damaging report. collaborate with other stakeholders of wages, sexual harassment and the In these reports there are some to bring a positive change for the • unsafe working environment, it is Both did not reply pictures of residential areas of industry.” He further added that before claimed that workers were forced to to our emails workers, describing poor living work for 9 to 17 hours per day. The publishing such reports, it is important conditions, whereas these have not despite reminder. reports also say that some workers to collaborate with the company’s been provided by the companies. were also made to work on Sundays management so that they can ensure What can the exporters do in this and national holidays ‘in sweltering that wrong information is not published regard…; their responsibility is to heat, without an adequate supply of and that data is correctly portrayed pay workers more than minimum clean drinking water or any breaks’. or at least given the chance to be wage, which they are doing! Workers have been cited saying that at heard. Taken completely off guard, • No one from the AFWA approached times they were made to work 24 hours Vimal Kumar Verma, GM – HR & companies with their findings…; at a stretch. “They also complained Compliance, Pearl Global says, “We how can you create such a huge about being inadequately compensated cannot believe what we have read. The report based on just a few views for overtime work – a practice very report does not state the true facts at from one party? common in the garment industry,” the all. It is fictitious, false and baseless. The company denies all allegations • In a scenario where there is a report says. against it strongly and facts can be dearth of skilled workers, how much All companies, to whom Apparel verified from our documented records.” is it justified to say that the worker Online contacted, were of the opinion is ready to work even if he is paid that such reports are concocted by One of the allegations made is that less…? In fact many measures are some irresponsible agencies or some above mentioned Indian exporters being taken to engage them. In vested interest of these NGOs thus do not allow pregnant women (in Bangalore, companies run buses to tarnishing the image of the Indian case of contractual labour) to work.

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 17 BURNING ISSUE

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“The intention of publishing such reports should be to bring a positive change in workers’ rights and not mere criticism.” – Yudhishthira Kapur, MD, Maharani of India

“Our management would appreciate before the publication, has not been social obligations are ensured if the report publisher may provide provided to us.” for each and every worker like – us with evidence where a pregnant INDIAN COMPANIES minimum wages, social benefits, woman has been specifically denied COVERED BY THESE good working conditions, health employment in our organization,” said SOME SERIOUS AND REPORTS and safety. Workers are at liberty Gajraj, while other companies in their SPECIFIC ALLEGATIONS to form any association or union. replies claimed strongly that they ON COMPANIES BY THE We have Worker’s Committee duly do not debar pregnant women from REPORTS AND THEIR Allegations made elected by workers for the safe guard taking employment. Sanjiv Chopra, REPLY TO APPAREL ONLINE by these reports are of their interest and its meetings are claimed to be based Vice President – Operations, Home ON THE SAID ISSUES… being held regularly. Workers are on the interviews of Textiles, GHCL, Vapi reacting sharply at their liberty to seek employment workers of factories on the report says, “GHCL is a multi- Claim: “At Pearl Global’s Udyog or to leave as and when they feel so. named in the reports. product company having an annual Vihar (Plot No. 446, Phase 5) unit, However, we never terminate the The first report of this turnover of US $ 385 million (Rs. 2,500 piece-rate workers were being paid @ employment. We do not provide any series, ‘Precarious Work crore) and it has been carrying out Rs. 1.20, lower than the prevailing rate of in the H&M Global kind of living-accommodation to many CSR activities with an annual Rs. 1.50 per collar. Workers, who refused Value Chain’ named the workers so there is no question budget of around US $ 2.41 million to work at a lower rate, were met with a 4 Indian exporters – that they are prevented from (Rs. 16 crore). We are therefore threat of giving away the work entirely to Shahi Exports (workers contacting or interacting with any surprised at the reference to GHCL a subcontractor.” interviewed – 19); union members. They are also free in the report.” Some companies like Response: This is absolutely baseless Maharani of India to go outside during lunch-breaks Orient Craft were so disgusted with and incorrect… Our incentives are (14); Jak Group (7); or at any time during working the report that they felt it was useless based on SAM of the garments and and Orion Conmerx hours with permission. Therefore, to respond and give importance to such are a very scientific, ethical and fair (10). It also covered we strongly deny the allegations baseless and false allegations! way of worker compensation. As 12 companies of published against us. In addition S. Alagesan, VP-QA/ Sustainability/ we have to compete with the market Cambodia and to this, we provide subsidized food CSR, Eastman Exports Global rate, we cannot give a lesser rate to interacted with and RO drinking water to all of our Clothing is extremely annoyed with our workers. If we pay less than the about 201 workers. employees including contractors. The the report and feels that some action market rate, then why will a worker second report Claim: “In Eastman Exports, a needs to be taken on an industry ‘Precarious Work work for us? The rate which we pay female worker reported being verbally level. “If any of our customers or in the Gap Global to a worker is as per the similar abused and sexually harassed for organizations wants to initiate legal Value Chain’ named industry practice. allegedly spoiling a piece of fabric. She proceedings against this report in their 8 companies from Claim: “In Pyoginam’s unit Nos. 268 was then forcefully terminated under respective countries, we are willing to Delhi-NCR, including and 262, workers and union organizers false pretence by the supervisor who provide any required evidence or any companies like Orient explained that high turnover prevents perpetrated the abuse. At the time legal assistance necessary. And we also Craft and Pearl Global. of termination, she was not paid the reserve our right to legally proceed workers from forming a union. Within It also covered 4 wages she was due on the grounds that against this report if our business these production units, no worker is companies of Indonesia she had damaged the fabric purposely. interests are affected. We invite people allowed to hold continuous employment with their 100 workers When she returned to seek the wages from Asia Floor Wages/Society for for more than a year. Workers are interviewed. The third she had been denied, she was given Labour Development or any concerned terminated for a period of one month report, ‘Precarious only partial payment. Rupees 600 had organization to visit our facilities to before being re-hired. The constant Work in the Walmart been illegally deducted from her wages. come and verify facts. We emphasize threat of termination creates a Global Value Chain’ Women forced to work overtime, but that no one from the organization’s significant barrier to organizing trade included Bangladesh (46 companies), in late hours into the night, being workers voice from the supply chain, unions. Another tactic to prevent Cambodia (14 vulnerable to sexual harassment and “nor any of their representatives or workers from interacting with union companies) and 24 affiliates mentioned in the report, have leaders or participating in union violence as they return home through Indian companies – ever visited any of our production activities include preventing workers poorly lit and unsafe streets.” including Tirupur-based facilities, nor they have at any point from engaging with anyone outside the Response: Allegations against us Eastman Exports, and of time expressed any desire to talk to factory during breaks in the work day...?” in the report are false, baseless 20 companies from us, or visited us, or interacted with us and borders irresponsibility. No Response: The report is baseless. We Vapi including GHCL in anyway. They have used our name such event mentioned in the report employ permanent workers through and Opera Clothing. but a basic fundamental right to react reputed contractors. All legal and has ever taken place in any of

18 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com BURNING ISSUE

“If any of our customers or organizations wants to initiate legal proceedings against this report in their respective countries, we are willing to provide any required evidence or any legal assistance necessary.” – S. Alagesan, VP-QA/ Sustainability/CSR,” Eastman Exports Global Clothing

our manufacturing facilities and reaching four years and then renewed, claim to have satisfied their buyers. no one has approached us with making workers to re-join from a new In one such case, H&M approached even a simplest of complaints of ‘start date’. Loss of seniority impacts ESSENTIALS Maharani of India and personally such serious nature. It is clear workers’ right to receive social security checked on the different allegations that to sensationalize the story, benefits.” Initiated in 2005, made on the report. “Our customers the report has used our name Response: The company informed Asia Floor Wage are always partnering us to improve with zero evidence. Our name is our compliance and make us a more Apparel Online that as top level Alliance (AFWA) completely unnecessary in this management is travelling abroad, it sustainable supplier. The percentage report and taken out of context, was unable to reply but assured an has members of the contract workers is negligible just to a make a report on labour answer on their arrival… They also in 13 countries as compared to the total strength exploitation. Contents in the of the Group. Besides H&M, who claimed that they were unaware of and in India it is reports are presumptions and do any such report. conducts their own audits, we also not represent facts. We have several associated with 14 have third-party audits conducted levels of worker grievance redressal unions/NGOs like by SGS for retailers and trading systems in place. At every level of EXPECTATIONS FROM GAWU (Garment houses like NEXT, Carrefour, Arcadia, the factory, workers are involved. AEPC AND MoT Primark, Li & Fung,” said Kapur. and Allied There are several workers involved Thérèse Sundberg, an H&M official in monitoring committees. Moreover, In its written reply Pearl Global Workers’ Union), says, “We are dedicated to contribute this committee has the participation suggests that the AEPC or Ministry GATWU (Garment to positive long-term development of a prominent NGO from this of Textiles should very strongly take and Textile for the people working in the textile region. NGOs visit all our factories up the matter against irresponsible industry in our sourcing markets. on regular basis and interact media and NGOs and organizations for Workers Union), The issues addressed in the report with workers and participate in tarnishing India’s image along with the KGWU ( are industry-wide problems. They addressing grievances. reputation of garment export industry. Garment are often difficult to address as an Strong action should be taken against Claim: “Workers in Maharani of Workers Union), individual company and we firmly India reported that they receive single such types of agencies. “Appropriate believe that collaboration is key.” He rather than double overtime payment level of examination of such reports GLU (Garment also informed that the H&M has joined – despite being routinely required may be taken up by the AEPC or MoT Labourers Union) forces with International Labour to work up to 17 hours a day, or in consultation with the Government and GAFWU Organization, Swedish International 8 overtime hours a day…” and correct facts may be brought to Development Cooperation Agency, and the notice of all concerned agencies, (Garment Response: Overtime is being other global and local trade unions to before they are published…,” says compensated at legally calculated and Fashion work in this direction. the management of Pyoginam, while double rates. Generally, overtime is Workers’ Union… A Walmart spokesperson says Maharani of India says that AEPC or of maximum 2 hours per day. In the the company uses “collaborative MoT should discredit unverified reports peak season, due to Supply Chain approaches to improving working that have been made without involving or raw material breakdown; in rare conditions and is working with the the management, of a particular cases, we may need to put in some International Labor Organization’s company. N Chandran, CMD, extra hours but the compensation Better Factories Cambodia Program” Eastman Exports also suggested is always paid in double, further to make sure that suppliers follow its forming a committee of stakeholders stating that all workers are covered set of standards. from the industry and including people under all legal Government-specified from Labour Ministry to investigate GAP too reacted and issued a statutory benefits. the source of such reports and bring statement, “When we encounter Claim: “Manesar unit of Tets N Rai out counter reporters that are credible an issue or violation of our code of (Sector 4, Plot No. 42), which has a and verified. vendor conduct – whether through total workforce of 700, is contracted our monitoring programme or when from Balaji Enterprises, a contractor an external group brings an issue operating from Gurgaon. Balaji BRANDS CONCERNED to our attention – our approach is ensures that no worker is employed to drive improvements in a timely for a continuous period of five years, Brands also approached their Indian manner, often in coordination to avoid payment of gratuity. Instead suppliers on the report, worried with NGOs or other civil society contracts are terminated upon about the authenticity and all of them organizations.”

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 19 BUYER SOURCING

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Buying for fall season on the rise India has never been seen as a sourcing destination for tone for the future and challenge Autumn/Winter and every exporter has concentrated the neighbouring supply markets, a tone that should create a larger almost on auto mode on Spring/Summer orders, and more organized volume-based ignoring the potential of business of A/W… But things supply chain, then only the numbers are changing and the surprise of this year is that most shall change and show visibly in the buyers have reported that though overall business overall export data. In this confusing scenario the situation of Fall buying, has been slow in 2016, demand for A/W 2016-17 has assumes greater significance, more been much better than the past. Buyers from different so as Fall is not really India’s forte. markets – the US, Europe, Japan and South America – Talking to many buyers and buying confirm the trend… offices working in different markets it would seem that the Fall season is working out better than the last S/S buying. Global warming and shifting of seasons from their traditional months has finally impacted sales, forcing he start of 2016 seemed very buyers to wait till the last possible Tpromising for the garment export minute to place orders as they do industry; though there were few ESSENTIALS not want inventories of products ripples of growth, the big volumes and that shoppers may not be interested positive expectations remained only Retail sales in in because of weather conditions. great sounding conversations. The “Fashion for A/W globally has retailers/brands too unfortunately clothing sector on undertaken a dramatic redefining did not see growth as customers are a global basis has as today the need for brushed and simply not increasing their spending been declining over heavy fabrics or wool-based product and therefore it is not an easy market. the last few years – is not the requirement. The A/W Global sales in clothing are sluggish season needs heavier viscose, blends and the final consumer prefers in 2014 the growth with wool, products that have trims spending on holidays and other was 3.5% while in that portray an A/W feel and look. things but not on garments. Buyers 2015 it was only The casual look is superseding the in general reported that for S/S ’16 2.1%. Predictions for classic heavy crepes and lumber jack some categories did have increased 2016 are on similar checks etc., hence Indian products demand, but that was caused mostly have entered the all year season because of shifting of business from lines of around production and I am confident that other markets due to a better product 2%. This creates this change is here to stay,” says offer and not necessarily for India- a challenging Vivek Bhatnagar, CEO, Fusion centric products. situation for retailers Consulting Services, a buying office mostly working with European In the meanwhile, the sourcing arena to keep footfalls has got crowded with far too many buyers. Even Sameer Thapar, MD, new companies entering the fray; so moving. Montrose Knitwear, who buys for the pie for sourcing is getting smaller the American market, verifies that and to get volumes. India definitely Fall business has been good for India. needs a clear and defining mind set “In fact Fall business is as strong as change, a change that shall set the Spring/Summer business for us in Inda inspired products for Fall ’16

20 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com BUYER SOURCING

certain categories,” he claims. So what are the factors that have swung business in India’s ESSENTIALS favour this season is specific… “Fashion for A/W globally One of the encouraging trends According to has undertaken a dramatic that buying offices have noted a Mintel report redefining as today the need which has brought in the business spending on for brushed and heavy fabrics this season is the return of older vacations and customers’ volumes, as after trying or wool-based product is not a few new markets which they had tourism is forecast the requirement.” to do as their design strategies to beat all other – Vivek Bhatnagar, CEO, Fusion Consulting Services weren’t defined and demarcated categories with clearly, they are all reverting back a 27 per cent to the classic India product with the increase over the modern twist. “This used to work and always created growth; but next five years. Products & techniques caught a lot of attention,” during the past three years or so, Consumers are in demand… avers Sanjeev. the design differentiation of brands According to Vivek, fashion has spending more on The resurgence of the so-called India had completely vanished as it was changed track and therefore India vacations as they look has also played a major role in being led by the burgeoning retailers shall be in the focus again, and start to feel more ensuring that the country remains like Zara, H&M, Primark and other now products or items shall drive relevant in Fall as well. “Yarn dyes similar ones. Since these brands confident about the and tie & dyes are still going strong business as opposed to collections were selling simpler and less worked economy and their and constitute product categories like earlier. “Most wholesale brands on styles at a brilliant cost, even the employment. This which have shown substantial are actually defining items and fashion wholesale brands started market is supported increase in business in the Fall pegging a quantity that it needs to going into that direction, and the season over the past few years. Of sell towards its sales staff and with entire market place looked exactly by relatively wealthy course, major Fall categories like a consensus the items are included the same. This A/W saw the re- Baby Boomers who outerwear, sweaters were never a as part of a fashion collection,” emergence of fashion, and distinctive are taking longer market, and I do not think will ever informs Vivek. In Europe, the key styling has started, and that trend vacations as they be. But products like yarn dyes, markets that are expected to grow shall continue in the summer styling heavy knits, embroideries, Indian are Germany, the UK and France. as well,” analyses Vivek. retire from the workforce, as well prints are quite in demand making Products that are growing from For Indian exporters, the India strong for Fall,” says Sameer. India are tops and dresses with large increased buying from the as Millennials who Sanjeev Kothavade, Country demands for dresses being observed southern hemisphere has also are increasingly Head – Raw Material and Fabric, for the Fall season. “Key base fabrics been a boom, since it gives an spending in Itochu India claims that even in a are viscose-driven compositions and opportunity to work round the the category. market like Japan where innovation blends but not hairy and not pilling year. Among the few buying offices is the only key to grab business, look, clean surface and soft feminine really making a mark in this area India’s fashion offerings have found touch is critical to the product,” is Falabella, headed in the region takers this Fall. “For A/W, especially adds Vivek. In South America by the dynamic Alpana Razdan, for women’s wear, and crepe denims, tencil denims and - General Manager – India & qualities, heavy chiffons were of based products are in great demand, Bangladesh. The India office interest to buyers. Also, blends with according to Alpana. of Falabella, one of the oldest and largest retailers in South America, having presence in Chile (headquartered in Santiago), Peru, Columbia, Argentina and Brazil, grew at a pace of 30 per cent in the year 2015. “Since Falabella has reverse “Yarn dyes and tie & dyes timings for A/W, our Spring/Summer are still going strong and business comes as a blessing for Indian vendors. However, those constitute product categories vendors who have risen to being which have shown substantial price-competitive have bagged increase in business in the business. India is on an upswing as Fall season over the past few cost in China has risen approximately 10 per cent. Also Indian piece goods years.” are in vogue,” says Alpana. – Sameer Thapar, MD, Montrose Knitwear

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 21 BUYER SOURCING

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Europe is getting tougher and tougher and ultimately it is going to be a ESSENTIALS ‘survival of the swiftest’ that is going to “Since Falabella has reverse stay,” admits Vivek. Buying offices timings for A/W, our Spring/ Challenges of sourcing are unanimous in Summer business comes as a in India today… defining the three blessing for Indian vendors.” biggest challenges There are many challenges in sourcing – Alpana Razdan, from India today. For a buying office, when working General Manager – India & Bangladesh, Falabella with vendors for the first challenge is adding value the global fashion to the supply chain, which will be platform today… the core need of every buying office. This is closely followed by the critical Innovative PD to analysis of – Why should a buyer work through a buying office, and how sure-short PD – With fashion retailers are taking a beating Markets in Europe can the buying office manage to be customers seeking from the giant retailers like H&M, fair and spread business across all to source not only slow, but positive… ZARA, Primark and the other Inditex its supplier partners. Buying offices the product but the Buyers feel that the EU market is brands. Cost of retail has become also need to create a stable team design as well, so saturated, and coupled with their much higher and the market share has which is exceedingly difficult in a there is need for financial issues and issues of migrants also eroded with the dominance of the weak market that is not growing, as keeping your range from war-affected areas, business is e-tailors even though most of them are the younger and new breed of fashion abreast with latest badly affected and which has resulted not profitable in the traditional sense. professionals have very short learning trends. in exporters working in the region The internet market has actually curve patience, because of which struggling to achieve long-term eroded fashion and window dressing Quick to even sustainable business. The impact on supply chain management has become – China in Europe, has taken a budget cut and quicker retail is that the SKUs are getting very challenging. has huge logistical spending is now on the web pages look smaller, buyers want to buy closer to Further, sourcing fabric of advantages for book. European brands, and especially the season, as the retailers want to international standards at competitive procurement of fabric Scandinavian brands, apart from the be sure of their buy and better sell price, to compete with neighbouring and shipping of big three are all struggling.” through. “The European retailers countries that enjoy duty benefits, goods as well, while With lesser styles and lower quantities, have become smarter and want to and currency fluctuation, are also Turkey is executing increasing demand for upgrading pass on as much cost as possible to major challenges not only for vendors businesses in a total ethical standards, decreasing prices, the source… Direct to store shipping, but buying offices also. Among the of 45 days with nearly reducing lead times, requirement of modularity and assortment of packing long standing challenges are price, no shipping/transit ‘newness’ increasing faster and faster, to be done in a ‘store ready’ method deliveries and production capacities. time. Fast track is the and some differentiation combined are the new requirements,” shares Today, prices have become challenging only way forward to with desperate hit and trial methods a buying office chief who works with and only those vendors who beat competition; it of product launches is spoiling European buyers, but prefers to understand and work on reasonable is a bigger advantage the planned supply chain. “It is a remain anonymous. margins, are able to get bigger share dichotomy that with higher product than even lower of business. This in turn forces them More open in sharing his struggle standards and higher product ethical price. to cut excessive overheads. Also in working with European buyers, and chemical performance properties since buyers are today booking very Sharp prices to Vivek says, “Europe is struggling and the prices need a downward push. close to season, they are expecting steep prices – By vendors to be very quick in production making the vendors deliveries. Factory’s which can take realize that lower the challenges of faster turnaround prices are a win- are getting more share of business. win rather than a win-lose situation, For buying offices like Montrose business will flow for “For A/W, especially for Limited, production capacities have been a major constraint. “For us vendors who give women’s wear, satin and crepe first best price. In business has been about volumes. The the era of e-bidding qualities, heavy chiffons were problem with Indian factories is that and L 1 tendering of interest to buyers. Also, if order size is 500 pieces they say it’s (lowest offer tender) blends with linen caught a lot small, and if we place 5,00,000 pieces there is no time for of attention.” then it is too big to handle. Factory’s negotiations. in India are set up more for medium – Sanjeev Kothavade, Country Head – Raw Material and size businesses, which restricts us Fabric, Itochu India from getting big business orders,” concludes Sameer.

22 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com

Apparel Online India 23 www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 23 TEX-FILE

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Vibrant spinning industry in Tamil Nadu confident of growth

A recent visit to Coimbatore was an exhilarating experience. Not only are the spinners of the region talking of growth, but the determination to move up the value chain and look inward to strengthen operations and save on wastages is palpable. Many sustainable efforts have been put in place including LED bulbs and “Energy Management systems” and other energy saving mechanisms like solutions to plug compressed air, a major source of energy in spinning mills. While the textile industry in other parts of the country continue to fret over mandatory implementation of Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD), the processing units in Tamil Nadu have already converted to ZLD and are running the Effluent Treatment Plants (ETPs) successfully.

24 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com TEX-FILE

“We approved a Textile Park in Bareilly (Uttar Pradesh) in my own district, but even after one year it has not got clearance as district comes under chak bandhi (land holdings). The State Government too should come forward to support the industry.” – Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Minister of State (I/C) for Textiles p43

he spinning industry in Tamil Nadu (TN) has seen definite improvements,T as compared to the previous years both in terms of utilization and also from the sales point of view. Yet, because of excess supply situation across the country, mostly due to new capacities in India and slowdown in exports, the spinning industry across the country is facing pressure in margins. To its credit, the spinning industry in Tamil Nadu with highest productivity, quality and Meeting of ITF in progress value addition, has not only been able to face these challenges, but is also slowly regaining lost strengths Working on the concept of growth,” avers Prabhu. Many of the at all fronts including better working collaborative growth through collective members are experimenting with new capital management. Debt levels are intelligence, the group negotiated ESSENTIALS fibres and processes to get better also reducing in a structured manner and purchased thermal power at a value from their output. and many standalone spinning mills very competitive price, in the process Playing a critical Despite many achievements and a are attempting to move up the value saving around Rs. 450 crore for the role in supporting general spike in confidence level of chain, at least to the next stage of industry. Seeking out solutions to change and growth the textile industry in Tamil Nadu, manufacturing. “Few standalone save energy and initiating many challenges still remain. The biggest is spinning mills already started the energy conservation initiatives, in the industry, fluctuating cotton prices. “Compared units in airjet weaving and garments ITF is on target to achieve the ITF has been a to the previous year, this year saw a manufacturing as a strategic move objective of 10 per cent reduction constant source sudden jump in cotton prices spoiling towards moving up the value chain. in energy consumption among its of inspiration all business plans, which will impact The confidence level is better now members. The same has already the whole textile value chain,” predicts and spinning sector in TN is moving been achieved in few mills and and information Prabhu. The second biggest challenge in the right direction,” says Prabhu implementations of energy saving sharing. Completing is the availability of skilled labour Dhamodharan, Secretary, Indian mechanisms are under way in many two years, the for which the group has implemented Texpreneurs Federation (ITF), more units. One such unit that has association group Pradhan Mantri Kaushal Vikas Coimbatore, India. benefited immensely from energy has swelled Yojana (PMKVY). The initiative has Playing a critical role in supporting saving initiatives is Anangoor Textiles in numbers, successfully trained 17,000 workers change and growth in the industry, Mills. Under the watchful eye of Elgi and employed them in the industry. ITF has been a constant source Equipments, the company has been crossing over 450 “We are moving towards a target of of inspiration and information able to identify and plug wastages in members in less one lakh workers,” informs Prabhu, sharing. Completing two years, compressed air, as also implementing than a year from adding that ITF members are proud to the association group has swelled changes and technology for more 240 members in be contributing to the vision of ‘Skill in numbers, crossing over 450 efficient utilization of the resources September 2015. India’ while finding solutions for their members in less than a year from to save about 40 per cent energy own challenges. 240 members in September 2015. consumption in the process. “I am Besides infusing confidence among really thankful to the ITF platform for And one more challenge is bankers’ the entrepreneurs and collaborating introducing me to these solutions and mindset towards the industry. Even at many fronts for mutual growth, we are looking at options to further in economic downtrend, compared to the group has collectively generated increase our savings on energy in the other industries, textiles are doing and shared market intelligence next phase of improvements,” says well. Bankers should collaborate regarding yarn price trends, stock KR Senthil, Director, Anangoor with industry and support spinning levels and other similar data by Textiles Mills. sector to have better working capital way of online survey and monthly With serious intent to support availability by way of launching meetings. This helped mills to gain members, the group has been unique products for better cotton real time information to take right transparently sharing best practices stock management. The spinning decisions on sales and not yield to and also creating benchmarks for sector is only bringing balance and pressures or speculations. “The aim performance and motivating all supporting the cotton economy by way is to use everybody’s intelligence to members to achieve the same level of purchasing cotton by cash as well sustain in a cooperative competition,” in all fronts. “The basic idea is to as small-scale weaving sector by way adds Srihari Balakrishnan, reduce the manufacturing cost by way of giving credit to yarn; both these President – KG Fabriks and of improving efficiency and also to sectors need to be encouraged for Director, ITF. move up the value chain for long-term overall growth.

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 25 H2F

Organized by Messe Frankfurt, the stage is all set for the second edition of Heimtextil India, to be held in New Delhi (at the Pragati Maidan, covering an area of 8,000 sq.m.) from 22nd to 24th June. The show is being hyped as a comprehensive event in terms of exhibitors as well as visitors, as not only top Indian brands, but even exporters, fabric companies and overseas participants from countries like Bangladesh, Bulgaria, China, etc. will attract designers and domestic buying agents. There will also be focus on hospitality purchase managers. As the show is happening along with Ambiente India, the organizer claims that nearly 200 companies will be showcasing the very best and latest in dining, living, giving and home textiles. The show will allow visitors to not only focus on the segments of their sourcing and professional interest but also inspire new trends in the Indian homes textiles industry.

Cushions from the range of Bhartiya Fabrics in light and dark grey colours with floral prints carrying an FOB of US $ 2.25 Heimtextil India

utting the focus on the hospitality The companies have also worked Positioned as a segment, Heimtextil India will hard to attract the visitors with alsoP witness an exclusive hospitality their collections. Raymond Home, a day on 23rd June in association premium player in the segment, is comprehensive with the Hospitality Purchase highlighting its A/W 2016-17 collection Manager’s Forum. Purchase which offers the unique vibe of the show for Managers from some of the top hotels season in home décor, combining Home and restaurant chains in India and various patterns and natural Asia are expected to attend and themes. Kitchen living and dining Textiles engage in buyer-seller meetings with accessories introduced this season exhibitors. Trends in hospitality and by the company consists of aprons, procurement will also be discussed napkins, table linen, diwan sets and in a series of sessions by eminent readymade curtains. Wide selection speakers defining the competitive of bed sheet sets, towels, blankets, business of hospitality. It is in fact comforters, quilts and bath robes will an important market segment for be showcased in distinct colours and home product manufacturers and the patterns, thus providing ample choice Federation of Hotel and Restaurant to customers to customize, and mix- Associations of India (FHRAI) claims and-match to create unique look for that there is a requirement of an their home. “Highlights for this season additional 1,80,000 hotel rooms in include special fibres such as Supima the country, which will result in huge in 700 thread count, brushed cotton demand for home textiles. Currently, of 500 thread count to 1,000 thread valued at US $ 11 billion, the hotel and count compact fabrics, offered in bed restaurant supplies sector in India is sheet range along with VAT dyed expected to see a 48 per cent growth towels and special finishes like anti- over the next two years. static, aloe vera with acrylic prints

26 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com H2F

High range of Bhartiya Fabrics, 240 ends per Kitchen linen by inch (EPI) offered at Raymond Home FOB US $ 4.50

that are available across blankets and comforters range for the coming season. Handmade and machine made 100 per cent shawls with super soft 14.2 microns Merino Home décor products wool are also part of the collection,” by differently-abled informs Pankaj Saxena, GM & people of Sunder Business Head of Raymond Home. Nagari slums are These products have been priced effectively to cater to the wide range to be showcased at of customer segments in the country. the fair as a special The show will have many companies segment. Following a from Delhi-NCR exhibiting both two-month special art fabrics as well as end-products. Bhartiya Fabrics, Delhi has focused and craft training in on 100 per cent , chenille handwork cushions, with satin in it cushion and curtains handbag stitching, for the event. The company has used jacquard prints with focus on stripes, hand embroidery, the floral, geometric and texture. Aman participants will be Mittal, Owner of company informed, displaying artefacts “These products are based on our created by them forecast research and we are hopeful that visitors will like our products. We and are looking at had earlier also participated in this affiliating with buyers event, which was a good experience. and agents at the event. We are expecting to meet visitors from mainly north India.” Established in 1984 the company is primarily working in the domestic market and 100 per cent cotton with embroidery. it has capacity of 1,00,000 metres Few big companies of south India of fabric per month. Many other too are focusing on specialized kinds companies are still going with 100 per of cotton and organic cotton-based cent cotton. Kishan International, products as these products are their Bangalore is one of them, and since strength and Indian market have natural fabrics is its core strength, it limited offering in the premier cotton has prepared a range of products in or organic cotton segment.

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Apparel Online India

28 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com DIRECTIONS BY Première Vision 2016 in review: Fabric Trends – S/S ’17 It’s that time of the year again when we study the fabrics that will shape the collections of the coming season and bring to life the trends. The key fabrics can be summarized in these three themes: rudimentary refinement – which includes dry textures, natural/artificial alliances, exceptional simplicity, lively colour, powerful nature; gently irreverent – subtle imperfections, implacable fineness, subversive freshness, graphic upsets; and experimental romanticism – artificial transparency, open structures, scientific spirit, boosted & piques. For an insight into the details of the fabrics for S/S ’17, go through our curetted report of different category of products…

Outerwear

or summer coats, fabrics with rich texture and enhanced touch will be in trend. They would include a modified nature, plastic raffia with unusual Fhandles, design primitives like tribal , dishevelled fringes and spongy . Strings and cords with a supple heaviness, graphic weave as if seen through a magnifying glass, thick yet airy . Blousons and jackets would be adapted in rubber-like and soft faux leathers, fun assemblages of net over plastic, double and bonded knits, super stretch for blousons and jackets with athleisure accents. Pants will exude more lightness and cool suppleness but with impeccable hold, ultra-matte or glazed sheens. Dresses will use ultra-matte crepes, tactile surfaces with subtly grained texture, incredible stretch. For artificial gleam, there will be sporty synthetic , everyday stretch .

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 29 DIRECTIONS BY

Tops

ops and blouses will include naturally airy fabrics with impalpable matt silks in viscose or synthetics with a smooth fluid handle, soft languid cottony Tvoiles, with softly washed , featherweight silks enlivened with a touch of air. Fantasy voiles will include cotton or cotton/linen transparency delicately enlivened with cut-, discreetly figured, stippled with little dobbies like men’s shirting. Everyday will be effervescent and fine like Chantilly, or very open like coloured voiles. The decoration will consist of bitter sweet romanticism themes with climbing or bouquet-style thorny roses, sticky sweet colour-ways and the same in darker, negative-style versions on sombre backgrounds. Inhabited jungles with vegetation, pervasive foliage where birds of paradise and exotic animals hide, disturbing and carnivorous flowers. In addition to cartoon-type treatments, handmade gouache or badly inked designs, anything but photographic are also big for the season.

Shirts

he designs will include a little dose of femininity, which will be featherweights, suppler behaviour, and flowering pinks. End-and-ends, chambrays, Tmini-stripes, familiar menswear visuals shift onto translucent or ultra-light grounds. Jacquards, cut-yarns, dobbies finely interfering with stripes with a little check; Linen blends or fine cotton slubs, highly controlled imperfections, dry handles are very chic or casual, natural asperities livening up patterns and semi plains. Then came muted checks – handkerchief and tiny checks with faded contrast, colour-ways hinting of a past liveliness or freshness. More than perfect ultra-homogeneous surfaces impeccably smooth on flawless satin, crisp or barely washed finishing, implacable simplicity, decisive lines, very graphically wide and contrasting stripes. Indigo suppleness is all about less weight, cotton or linen blended with Lyocell or modal playing on transparency.

30 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com DIRECTIONS BY

Evening wear

vening wear ensembles will revolve around inhabited transparency with translucent roundness, spectacular gauzes, sublimely imperfect Einfiltrated with dry slubs. Intermittent, wholly fine cut-yarns play on transparency. Finely transparent layers, volume-boosting imprisoned yarns reminiscent of precious quilting, 3D and translucent spacers, over-embroidered or adorned with refined applications. Artificial lights like voiles and mousse lines will be covered with plastic reflections, pale metallics laminated on silkies, embroideries or lace, all-over iridescent sequin glints. Jacquards enhanced with cellophane or grating yarns, florals with an artificial look thanks to colourful, slightly chemical vibrations. and satin duchesse with supple, almost casual behaviour… More simple designs will include large, irregular and multi-coloured stripes. Matt, glossy, transparent and opaque, pleated, or textured stripes, stripes detailed in the lace patterns. Technical fabric

erformance fabrics include cotton aspects and very discreetly irregular-yarn effects for synthetics – ultra-matte, talc-like handles. Truly augmented Pcottons, -like, in 3-layer laminates with chambray visuals, end-and-ends or cottons, with breathable/waterproof or bonded membranes on contrasting mesh will be visibly present. Prints will be striking and contrasting, two or three-toned triangles and interlaced designs, playful geometries, enlarged and yarn-dyed checkerboards. Cutting-edge functionalities, at the very least breathable/waterproof and wind stopping are going to be popular. Sheathing knits – from cycling to athleisure will comprise of a reinforced, breathable elasticity in both knits and woven garments, and fast- dry knits in spruce fantasies. Swimwear is all about innovative nets and , wavy patterns and frills, ennobled, embroidered, laser cut-outs with dark jungle and mysterious floral prints.

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Simple, no-nonsense and effortlessly flattering shirt is the most common silhouette known. Originally shirts have always been summer essentials. Aan undergarment worn exclusively Shirts for S/S ’17 collections witnessed a wide by men and women, it has become in range of manipulations induced in the basic American English, a catch-all term for a broad variety of upper-body shirt silhouette to make them even more garments and undergarments. In appealing. With the influx of ’90s fashion, it British English, a shirt is more is no surprise that Spring 2017 collections are specifically a garment with a collar, sleeves with cuffs, and a full vertical being swathed with androgynous looks where opening with buttons or snaps. women’s fashion has taken a serious masculine While the year 2016 makes a swift shift in terms of developments, turn. Designers and exporters have successfully from A/W ’16-17 to S/S ’17, the altered the ‘shirt’ to create cropped shirts, fashion world is also bestowed by shirt dresses, varied blouse styles, all with the beautiful couture creations on display by designers. “Versatility added femininity to the archetypical shirt. is one of the main reasons why Whether it’s an extra-long striped dress or a shirts are getting combined with other silhouettes. Shirts are great Shirt with cool collared white shirt complete with ruffles, to be worn all year round. From a generously cut shirt with new induced details warm summer weather to chilly is the ultimate style for this laid-back summer… winter season; they never fail a Twist! to create sophisticated winning looks. Being a decidedly less- dramatically-designed garment amongst everything else ‘the shirt’ is slowly and steadily becoming the silhouette of the summers and is S/S ’17 collections gathering all the attention for design and manipulation,” avers Darshika Sharma, Assistant Designer, embrace new shirt Bharatiya International. The shirtdress manipulations… The return of the shirtdress fits in perfectly with the current obsession for retro shapes. A classic silhouette with varied interpretations, have evolved over the time from one style to another becoming more of a basic in a woman’s wardrobe, as it adorns every body type and size, with endless possibilities of innovation. Not too structured and achieved with minimal tailoring, the shirtdress has been one of the most commonly produced items by Indian manufacturers and exporters now. With varied interpretations taking rounds on the runways, the shirtdress has become the summer staple. Charles Youssef created a simple white shirt, giving it a revamp with Creatures of Charles Youssef Comfort pleated ruffles on the neckline

32 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com FASHION BUSINESS

“Earlier we were more into the products with the average FOB range of US $ 10-15 (in woven) but now our products are from US $ 25-30.” – Jitendra Sodhi, MD, IBC p53

and elongated cuffs. Josh Goot presented the most minimalistic shirtdress ever making no changes ESSENTIALS at all in the shirt silhouette other than elongating the hemline. Yune Originally an Ho gave a girly dressy feel to the undergarment shirtdress, complete with frilled hem worn exclusively by and a tie option at the cuffs; on the other hand, Creatures of Comfort men and women, presented an amalgamation of it has become in best of two silhouettes by creating American English, a loose fitted wrap shirtdress. a catch-all term Pankaj Sanon, Manager, for a broad variety A.P. Handicrafts, discussing about Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Indian interpretations said, “We of upper-body are doing a lot of shirtdress styles garments and for our spring collection in cotton undergarments. In and . Geometric prints, British English, a shirt Palmer Harding patchwork, mix-and-match and using is more specifically two-three different prints in one garment, is what is getting picked up a garment with a by our buyers.” collar, sleeves with cuffs, and a full The shirt-blouse vertical opening Moving ahead from the shirtdress, with buttons or the summer’s freshest trend now is snaps. While the the shirt-blouse. A shirt-blouse is Tibi an innovative combination of varied year 2016 makes a blouse silhouettes with the basic swift shift in terms of shirt. While some, like the shirts developments, from the same combination as Delpozo with frilled sleeves or half sleeve A/W ’16-17 to by merging collars and double trench-inspired shirts, were instantly pockets with heavy embroidery work. S/S ’17, the fashion familiar pieces on the runway, others “We are making the product more like the-off shoulder shirt-blouse world is also feminine by using animal prints and and the cropped shirt, were entirely bestowed by the shades like peach, lilac and orange Noon by Noor new styles noticed. These new styles beautiful couture which are apt for the summer,” welcomed the evolution of blouse informs Pushpa. creations on display increased use of oxford, mélange, trends merging with a shirt, making by designers. and dobby along with the resultant an instant classic. The Long Shirt cotton poplin, Egyptian cotton and Long shirts are somewhere Preen by Thornton Bregazzi played stripes for these styles. Palmer with asymmetry and layering in in-between the midi and the Harding created a long shirt with his shirt blouse interpretations maxi, and are another fashion a high-low hem bringing back the whereas, Isa Arfen induced the adaptation of the shirts. Although memories of 2014 summer, whereas, off-shoulder effect onto the shirt the standard length of shirts is up Noon by Noor, had the long shirt complete with a huge bow panel to the waist, modern designers such with intricate embroidered details going from shoulder to shoulder. as Rag and Bone, Wendy Nichol, on sheer. Mitesh Bhatia, Director, Tibi stuck to the basic shirt and only Zimmermann, Creatures of the Vamani Overseas added, “Currently played with the neckline by bringing Wind, and 6397 chose to lengthen sweeping the markets are soft, it down to the shoulders; and on them a bit. As Fall 2016 runways elongated silhouettes which are one the other hand, Delpozo made an showcased a lot of scope for this of the strongest emerging trends, an elegant comeback with their Nehru trend, the fashion followers predict important reason why long shirts are collar shirt complete with frilled that the popularity will only grow an intelligent choice to produce for pockets. Pushpa Shahi, Senior further, and move ahead with a any exporter. Shirts are an all-time Merchandiser, Creatnet Services, lot more interpretations. Talking favourite style and it’s time that it shared that they are carrying out about interpretations, there is an gets revamped for the better.”

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 33 FASHION RESOURCE

FASHION Gucci's love Ralph FILE for the British Lauren plans

Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s Creative restructuring There were lots of Director is obsessed with Britain and chaotic and distressed it looks like that is going to continue, Ralph Lauren has outlined its prints at play, with a for at least another three years. The restructuring plan, which involves very urban and fashion house has announced its closing 50 stores and cutting 1,000 contemporary feel to plans to partner with the historic jobs. The aim is to lower outgoings them. Interestingly, Chatsworth House until 2019 on a at the fashion house, which has seen designers made cultural programme that will focus a decline in shares this week, with use of bright shades on fashion and style. “There is a the restructure predicting to save the that never seem to layered beauty to the way Alessandro company US $ 180 to US $ 220 million lose their place on the Michele blends the historic and the annually. The new plan, headed by runway. Versace went contemporary in his collections, this is Chief Executive Stefan Larsson, also straight for acid pop mirrored in the way Chatsworth has involves shifting attention to profitable shades that covered evolved over many hundreds of years areas of the business that hold most the short dresses and with each generation making their own potential. “The company will focus on ‘Chaos’ reigns coats with a jagged contribution, its luxury Ralph print, Rachel Zoe did layer upon layer Lauren line something similar but to the house and the lower- with a palette closer to and landscape,” end Polo and fall and she adopted Laura Lauren brands,” different textures to Burlington said. Larsson said. A bring the print to life. Gucci’s CEO spokesperson for Missoni’s print on the long 1920s dresses was more Marco Bizzari's the brand also subtle but chaotic nonetheless and Marni’s 1980s has intentions revealed that it garments that involved cigarette pants and to grow the plans to reduce exaggerated shoulders was covered in a smoke- brand by more time between inspired print. than double the collections being market average, unveiled and forecasting being available revenues at an in store – from unprecedented 15 months as it €6 billion for the stands, to nine Colour long-term. Story months.

Mackintosh reveals Maison Michel collaboration

Heritage brands Mackintosh and the Chanel-owned Maison Michel Paris have collaborated on an exclusive collection of headwear, bringing together two-storied fashion houses in the most modern of ways. “Maison Michel was an obvious choice for us by Fashion Forward Trends A/W 2016-17 A/W 2016-17 as they are a master of craftsmanship of hats, as well as being at the pantone pantone forefront of fashion and innovative 17-1562 TPX 18-1756 TPX design,” Sophie Wright, Special Projects Manager at Mackintosh wonderful to work with a company pantone pantone said, adding, “We felt that we share that is associated with Chanel!” The 16-5127 TPX 19-0812 TPX a very similar outlook on growing collaboration between the luxury and developing our heritage brands ready-to-wear label, established in pantone pantone and we love what Priscilla Royer has Scotland in 1823, took on the classic 14-5106 TPX 14-4110 TPX brought to Maison Michel as Creative rain-hat silhouettes and fabrics, Director – and of course it’s always giving them a youthful attitude.

34 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com

Apparel Online India 35

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 35 VALUE ADDITION

Top

in S/S ’17 Collections

his season Blue Denim grabbed some serious attention as it transformedT from a casual daily wear fabric to be used by designers to create trendy high-fashion garments adorned by power giants. An extensive line of indigo essentials walked down the recent runways, ranging creatively from shredded to dark- wash, low-slung to high-waist, and even patched or bedazzled, washed, raw, straight or slim. From simple studs, all-over sequins, to washed distressed denims, embellished and washed jeans are a big trend for summer. Working on similar lines, Bittoo Overseas, exporter of readymade garments, has developed a collection with denim, creating a trompe-l’oeil effect of heavyweight denims. Elaborating further, Loveleena Dubey, Designer at the company shares, “For our S/S ’17 collection, we are developing a range of indigo dyed chambray garments with ‘aari’ embroidery in shaded threads. We are getting a great response from our clients, as they like this low on cost, but high on style embroidered version of denim.” Denims got a bit more multi-faceted than usual as value addition found a serious following among designers. In the recently concluded runways of Fall 2016, distinct interpretations came alive and turned a new chapter in denim embroideries, washes and other interpretations. Chanel garnished its bottoms with tonal embroidery which gave the effect of embossing, while Jerome went for an extravagant version with gems, sequins and beads harmoniously placed on the edges. Imaginations ran wild when designers injected denim fringes heavily

Tsumori Chisato on the runway by making use of

36 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com VALUE ADDITION

Denims have witnessed a variety of value addition techniques and embellishments in the last few seasons, with techniques like jacquard, tone-on-tone printing and patchwork finding their way into the collections of designers and exporters. But with the revival of washes and innovative techniques on denim in the last Fall 2016 runways, design teams at export houses have picked up this growing trend and started to develop crafty versions of the regular denim. The timeless story of denim has continued from year to year and season to season, with innovations that are hard to count and possibilities that are limitless to imagine. Picking from runways to retail, the fashion team at Apparel Online brings the top denim trends for S/S ’17…

patchwork. 69 presented a mash-up of Swati Jankoli, Sr. Merchandiser, also being sewn on denim. Floral, haphazardly placed denim fringes. Shrijee Lifestyle, an exporter of or plaid patterned patchwork denim garments that specializes in is resulting in an interesting look. We DESTROYED AND value addition. are even creating squares of different DISTRESSED textures and putting them together WHITENED by taking inspiration from Moschino’s Frayed edges, distressed finishes, collection of last season.” and destroyed details lend a casual Last season witnessed denim look to denim. One of the key looks of gradating towards lighter shades with EMBELLISHED denim this year, unkempt and brazen, erratic discolouration on sleeves, Imaginations ran wild with designers originates from its inherent raw hems and collars. The trend has a injecting colour on the runway by character. The season saw threads stronger foothold in collections now making use of golden patchwork on garment edges left undone in as garments have been coloured in and multi-coloured sequin; metallic abundance. Destroyed and distressed lighter shades; and in some cases, found its way through silver chains, effect was spotted on the hemlines even stark white, sky and powder mirror work, zippers and shimmering of skirts, dresses and shorts, in blue. Silhouettes played with were beadwork were also seen aplenty and addition to the obvious jeans. The endless – skinny jeans, jackets, crop for a subtle yet intricate pattern on interesting pieces focused on the trend tops, playsuits, short shorts and denim, embroidery was brought into being taken a notch higher through dresses – hardly any silhouette was play in shiny threads – contrasting assembling disintegrated parts of a missing in this trend since the neutral colours in some, and tone-on-tone silhouette with each piece ending in palette mixes effortlessly well with on others. frayed edges. Instead of just hemlines, bold colours and pattern. This faded creating a deconstructed look through streak of denim compliments the surge of pastel shades which are bound to FRINGED fraying could be further explored too. Notify dominate the coming seasons. Fringes and tassels have been STAINED a decorative element since the PATCHWORK AND ancient times, but fringed denim is a Denim’s ability to find a common PANELLING completely new concept. Introduced ground with art will be flatteringly on the runways by the designs like exploited this season. Although Designers sewed on more typical Tome and 69, heavy fringing was seen statement techniques – aggressively patches such as stars and flowers, on jackets surfaces, hems and sleeves. washed denim and alike – have and also not-so-mainstream ones – After becoming a huge surface trend continually inspired designers mushrooms, the sun, falcon, four of on bags, now we are witnessing to express through their denim a kind aces, poker chips, bicycles, fringing on every garment and home ensembles, this season tones down bows, red beetles, amongst others. In furnishing item possible, may be this the dyeing effect to suit daywear the midst of these pictorial patches, is the reason denims are also getting sensibilities. While denim jeans still there lay logo patches and oversized adorned with this value addition rule this category, similar surface alphabets too, which ranged from technique. Explaining the sudden techniques have been transferred onto the brand’s name to city number growth in demand for fringes, Manish crossover jackets, overalls and high plates. Leather patches were used for Modiani, Director, SaiBa Expo said, waist skirts. “Two to three finishes panelling on pockets and cuffs and the “These days buyers are not very keen are applied in some cases to resemble entire sleeve on some silhouettes and on buying expensive styles, therefore acid wash and in others to mirror in others, on kneepads or randomly they are looking forward to buying digital prints creating an optical 3D placed on the pants. Rajesh Sachdeva, styles which are less pricey but have illusion. Staining is a trend which Managing Director, Upper Class an interesting surface ornamentation. has seen a gradual growth in the last Fashions, discussing about patching And as fringes are able to provide two seasons, and in this season it has and panelling says, “Besides leather, just that, it is being used in almost all got the most prominence,” shares printed cotton and knit patches are 69 the styles.”

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 37 INDUSTRY WIRE

Stylish Art (Jaipur) focusing on export

Though, most of the garment manufacturers of Jaipur (India) are focusing more on domestic market, there are some firms that have more thrust on export; Stylish Art, Jaipur is one of those. Baldev Jajoriya, Proprietor of the company, who is also doing job-work for some of the big exporters of the city informed, “We are still working for organized Indian retailers, but our priority is exports, as in exports we can get fair margin for different and better products. Secondly, copying of design is another issue in the domestic market. We are making extra efforts on design developments so that we can succeed more in overseas markets.” As far as new developments are concerned, Taurus Global is Baldev is exploring hand-block printing and that too on different fabrics with lot of value now ‘Sedex-certified’ addition, especially in yarn-dyed fabric and woollen. “In two-tone thread, texture comes out nicely and gives different feel to block prints. Besides, we beautifully use trims like laces and embroidery on the same hand-block garments. Moving towards compliance is Dhruv Gupta, Director – Taurus All these developments at our company a win-win situation for all the Clothing Co./Taurus Global told happened five months back and bagged us a stakeholders of the apparel export Apparel Online, “Buyers are concerned reasonable order from an Australia-based buyer. industry, especially when it comes to about compliance, and along with that More orders of such products are expected the medium-level or comparatively we were also willing to upgrade our from Europe and US in the near future, as we new players in the sector… Latest factory. The compliance certification have given presentations to buyers on hand- in the list to bag compliance from Sedex (Supplier Ethical Data block garments,” said Baldev, who is expecting certification is Taurus Global, a Exchange) helps a lot in this regard. very good growth in the current fiscal like he Sonepat-based company which is Although it was not easy for us but we achieved last year. Though Jaipur already has well established in the domestic managed to do it; all you got to have many exporters doing hand-block garments, market with its ‘Taurus’ brand and is the right attitude.” Content with the Baldev chose the same because he has expertise is also growing in exports from the response of overseas markets in initial in this area as his father and grandfather were last two years. The company is now two years, Dhruv is currently exporting also involved in the same. Having capacity of Sedex-certified. to the US and Spain. 2,000 pieces per day, Stylish Art is 80 per cent into apparel, accessories and rest is in home Having special focus on design, the textiles. Its product’s price starts from US $ 4 company offers complete range in and goes up to US $ 35. women’s wear and is looking to expand further in coming years. At present, it has 50 stitching machines in-house and outsources as well. “We are working to add good buyers with us who like our collection and offer reasonable price as our products start from US $ 7 and goes up to US $ 25,” said Dhruv, who is currently exporting 30 per cent of its total business. The company is into domestic market from last 15 years but has equal focus on exports as well.

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IAM and other TEA to support rented premises talented students of to vacate Apparel garment workers House, orders MoT

In the near future whenever you will go to Apparel House or AIM (Apparel India Mart), AEPC’s headquarters in Gurgaon, you will see it in a different light as MoT (Ministry of Textiles) has issued orders that the IAM (Institute of Apparel Management) should vacate the premises of AIM. In addition, all other rented premises at the Mart will be shifted immediately as per the directives of the MoT. The decisive meeting was held on May 9 under the chairpersonship of Rashmi Verma, Secretary, MoT. The meeting was regarding the revised business model for the management of Apparel International Mart, Gurgaon. It was also decided in the meeting that a new company under section 8 of the company’s Act (on the basis of no profit-no loss) shall be set up Neha Tailor Pranshu Gupta by AEPC, which shall look after the Management of AIM (Apparel India Mart), having Joint Secretary (Exports) as the Government nominee. In an effort to felicitate silver jubilee, it was decided that After getting approval by the Ministry, the new company shall be talented students and motivate Rs. 10,000 will be awarded to registered within 15 days. children of people working in each of the first five rank holders, the garment industry, Tirupur hailing from Tirupur-based Exporters Association (TEA) – garment workers’ family annually an association exclusively for from 2015-16 onwards, in 10th and exporters of cotton knitwear 12th Standard. that have production facilities in Dr. A. Sakthivel, President, Tirupur – has made a significant TEA said that the association move. On commemoration of TEA’s is already in the process

Narinder Kumar elected as President of GMMSA It was further decided that the company would have representatives from the trade and showroom holders along with SG, AEPC. After the formation, the new company will finalize the criteria for allotment of Narinder Kumar of Narinder – General Secretary; Amit Jain – showrooms of the Apparel House, refund policy, lock-in period, charges international – involved in import Treasurer; Parmesh Wassist – Joint Secretary; and Sukhwinder Singh – for showroom, security deposit and other related matters etc. Retail and marketing of machinery and Secretary PR. activities and sales of export surplus, etc. shall not be permitted in complete plants for yarn spinning, these showrooms. It shall also finalize the intended export promotion and weaving, fabric On his appointment, Narinder activities including REACH compliant laboratory. It was decided that dyeing, etc. – has unanimously assured that with support of India International Garment Fair scheduled for January 2017 shall be been elected as the new President his team and worthy members, organized at AIM. Moreover, the draft MoA of the new section 8 under of Ludhiana-based Garments he will give his best for the the Companies Act shall be drafted by SG in consultation with ED, Machinery Manufacturers & improvement of the association, EPCH. The meeting also finalized that the revenue received by AIM Suppliers Association (GMMSA). in line with the global trends shall be spent on AIM only and the Mart shall be used only for export The newly appointed team of the and developments. business. Several senior officials from MoT; H.K.L. Magu and Vijay association includes Teja Singh – Meanwhile, the outgoing President Mathur from AEPC; Rakesh Kumar, ED of EPCH, and Rajiv Kapoor Sr. Vice President; Gurpreet Singh Ram Krishan thanked the entire from AHEA were present in the meeting. – Vice President; Gurdev Singh garment industry and machinery

40 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com INDUSTRY LIVE

of collecting the details of first five rank holders for the AEPC gets year 2015-16 and has also new SG written letters to eight Trade Unions namely AITUC, CITU, AEPC (Apparel Export Promotion MLF, LPF, ATP, INTUC, BMS and Council) has got a new Secretary HMS today, seeking the details of General (SG). Ram Singh, an IPS the students known to them from officer of Punjab Cadre, (1994 their sources. batch) who is currently working as Director in the Ministry of Textiles It will be worth mentioning that (MoT) on deputation basis has there are few children of the taken additional charge as the shop floor-level professionals SG, AEPC. He took charge in the who are studying at CBSE- first week of June and in his new affiliated schools. Apparel Online role he replaces Puneet Kumar, tried to figure out such children the former SG, who was appointed but came across very few. One in December 2013. As of now, such student – Jyothi S achieved Ram Singh looks after the work 98.42 per cent and broke the of NTC, BIC and work relating record for the highest marks in to Commissioner of Payments, Karnataka SSLC (Secondary Parliament Matters, Vigilance & Education Examination Board) Technical Textiles and MMF at exam in her school. Her father the MoT. In his previous roles, Shivakumar M is a Supervisor Ram Singh who is B.Tech, Civil at a local garment factory. Neha Engineering and holds a M.A. Tailor, daughter of Manoj Tailor, degree in Police Administration Pattern Master in Cheer Sagar, has served many senior positions. Jaipur scored 84.2 per cent The tenure of Puneet Kumar at the (Commerce); Pranshu Gupta, AEPC was under the scanner as son of SK Gupta, GM in Cheer there was conflict between Puneet Sagar, Jaipur scored 94.2 per cent and AEPC, on salary issues. The in his 12th class examinations matter was moved to the Delhi (Commerce). High Court as well.

Narinder Kumar, President, GMMSA, with his newly elected team, addressing GMMSA members suppliers for their support to Knitters Association as Presiding GMMSA. Members of GMMSA Officer; Darshan Dawar – appreciated the achievements of President, Knitwear Club; and Ram Krishan… During his term, Harbhajan Singh of Oster as GMMSA EXPO INDIA – 2016 was Observers. They congratulated organized successfully. It also got the new team and expected that support from MSME. all will work together for the Electoral team comprised of development of Indian garment Ajit Lakra, President, Ludhiana and textile industry.

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 41 INDIA

APPAREL RESOURCES NEWSLETTERS FACEBOOK FRIENDS To subscribe, send us an email at Join more than 10,000 people who are already fans of [email protected] Apparel Resources on facebook. Search for Apparel Resources at www.facebook.com/pages Delhi’s Paharganj changing with evolving international scenario

quality stitching. All depends on our buyers, what they want,” said one of the local exporters who did not want ESSENTIALS to be quoted. Few exporters sitting in Paharganj Some of the are of the opinion that new buyers exporters of must visit this market not just for Paharganj only sourcing, but for fun and uniqueness deal in bulk orders, of the experience, and to explore local things. “Nearby available local food but they are now which is famous across the world entertaining small is enjoyed immensely by overseas orders too. Though visitors, especially those who are the market is mainly coming for the first time,” says Ashish for ladies garments Bhatia of KL Bhatia, running his undreds of shops line-up the prices. Heaving less overhead is one business in the area for more than and most of the Paharganj market (Main Road, of the reasons that we are able to 4 decades. Along with handicraft local exporters RajH Guru Road and surrounding keep our prices comparatively low items, the firm deals in accessories are dealing in areas) in Delhi with abundant garment to other exporters,” says Mayank like stoles and shawls. products which samples hanging on the walls; in the Miglani, who is handling Achin Earlier most of the players of have minimum first instance one would mistake Exports/Mayank Creation from the Paharganj used to have huge stocks value addition, but them for retail shops but in fact they last 4 years and exporting garments with them but with declining footfall are exporters, exporting mainly mainly to Europe and Australia. The of buyers and increasing cost, now availability of other ladies garments and accessories. business was established by his father they are keeping limited stocks of only items like scarves, The exporters sitting at their shops Sunil Miglani more than 20 years ago. those products which are easy to sell stalls, bags, kids, expect footfall of small overseas This low-price and average quality or remain in demand always. Now men’s wear and buyers which is now decreasing day- product offering, which is in fact the most of the exporters get production handicraft items by-day with the changing global trade strength of this market, is also giving done only after finalizing orders scenario. Currently, this market is a negative image, as it is a common rather than keeping stock with them. is another reason very slow due to recessionary trends perception that this market doesn’t As far as manufacturing is concerned, that attracts the in international market; however offer quality products or the buyers the exporters in the market have buyers. Many firms those having old clientage are still who are buying from here are not mixed kind of manufacturing, like in Paharganj are running business with them, though concerned for quality. Local exporters some players of this area are mainly now in the hands of getting new buyers is difficult as deny this perception and as one of into trading, most of them getting their now very few floating buyers come to the exporters says it’s about ‘value products from unorganized areas like second-generation this market. for money’, buyers get what they Nihal Vihar, Seelampur, while some of entrepreneurs and “Buyers are trying to save whatever want at how much they want to pay them are now growing and setting up being tech-savvy they can, so now they don’t come as for that. “We are giving long skirts their factories in the organized way. the Gen-Next has frequently as they used to in previous for US $ 2, the fabric used for such NP Singh of Cross Culture Fashions, years. Many buyers who visit IIGF do products are made by sarees; we do who has a shop in the area, is one adopted more use come to this market to explore rates have same skirts in US $ 3 or even such company that is setting up a new of technology like as this market offers best/reasonable US $ 4 with different fabric and better factory on modern lines. e-banking.

42 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com INDIA CANVAS

MoT assurance, apparel exporters may FEW soon get relief on imported fabrics! ACHIEVEMENTS > Apparel and Handicrafts, each ndian apparel exporters may recorded 22 per soon get some relief on the duties cent growth and Ipaid by them on imported fabrics. textile exports “Yes, it is a long pending demand; overall grew by 8 slew of measures are now under per cent during consideration and so the industry last two years – may soon get some good news in compared to the this regard,” replied Santosh Kumar previous two years. Gangwar, Minister of State (I/C) for Textiles, and Pushpa Subrahmanyam, > Integrated Additional Secretary, Ministry of Processing Textiles to a question raised by Development Apparel Online at a special press Scheme rolled out briefing held recently on completion to provide up to 50 of two years in office of the current per cent assistance Government. As of now, for many for Common specialty fabric items (almost 59 types the Minister said that he will push the concerned authorities or ministries Effluent Treatment of fabrics), Indian exporters largely to look into the matter and work Plants with Zero depend on imports. The Minister out a solution. On the issue of delay Liquid Discharge added that the Government has given “We approved a in presenting an integrated textile many incentives to apparel exporters System, subject to Textile Park in policy the Minister reiterated that over the last two years. a ceiling of Rs. 75 Bareilly (Uttar it is in final stage of discussion and crore (US $ 11.55 On the issue of the recent reports evaluation. million); six projects published by International NGOs, Pradesh), in my Announcing achievements of the sanctioned to Gangwar assured Apparel Online own district, but Ministry and Government as a whole support processing that the Ministry will deeply go even after one in the last two years, Gangwar clusters. Skilling through the reports damaging the year it has not asserted that MoT has taken care of (under ISDS) 3.75 image of Indian apparel exporters every sector; be it handloom, textile lakh youth have at global level before taking a stand. got clearance as mills, or training and education been trained in “As of now this matter was not in district comes in textile and apparel industry… our notice but we will look into the textile trades; 70 per under chak “It is the first time that we have issue now,” he said. Besides this, the cent of the trainees not received any complaints about Minister urged the apparel industry bandhi (land provided jobs. NIFT admission,” adding, “Our to set up factories in the North-East holdings). The textile industry now contributes 15 region of the country as now all > Major impetus State Government per cent to India’s exports. More the eight states in the North-East given to too should come than US $ 1,000 million (Rs. 6,500 have garment and apparel making powerloom sector crore) has been spent by the MoT on centres, so trained workforce is forward to support through in situ various schemes for promotion and available there. upgradation of industry.” development of the textiles sector and plain powerlooms On decisions of other ministries – Santosh Kumar Gangwar, approximately five lakh additional – 55,000 looms that are adversely impacting textile Minister of State (I/C) for Textiles jobs have been created in the past upgraded at a industry be it ZLD issue by Ministry two years in the sector,” he said. of Environment or proposal of Labour funds from Ministry of Commerce for Additionally, the Minister averred that cost of Rs.60 crore Ministry to fix the minimum wages for Market Access Initiatives and Market one of the biggest achievements of (US $ 9.25 million); contract workers at Rs. 10,000, the Development Assistance, the Minister the Ministry in these past two years rapier kits and Minister said, “We are in touch with said, “We will try to give whatever is of sanctioning 24 new Textile Parks enhanced subsidy other ministries to find acceptable help we can at our own level and will under the Scheme for Integrated of 75 per cent, and fair solutions. As ZLD is not also talk to Ministry of Commerce in Textile Parks with a potential and 90 per cent compulsory anywhere in the world, this regard.” On particular hub-based investment of US $ 692 million respectively for we are looking at a middle path.” demands like ESI Hospital in Tirupur (Rs. 4,500 crore) and employment SC and ST notified On the demands by TEA for more and exhibition centre in Ludhiana, for 66,000 people. under the scheme.

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 43 EXPORT STATISTICS

Apparel imports by US in Jan.-April 2016 down in value January – April 2016

Things were looking bright for American retail at the start of the year, but post March the imports have taken a beating. Reports from the US suggest that being an election year, a lot of focus is on matters other than the economy. How the year will play out is still a topic of debate…

Global Apparel Imports by the US: 8 Percentage Jan.-April 2016 7 decrease in UVR 6 2.56% Value Decrease 5 2.73% 4 US $ US $ 3.12 3.04 3

Volume Increase Average UVR 2

0.07% (per kg of fabric equivalent) 1 0 Change in Values 2015 2016 Year 6.30% 5.51% Cotton Wool Total global apparel imports by the US — Jan.-Apr. ’16

Type of Apparel Jan.-Apr. ’15 Jan.-Apr. ’16 % Change

Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value 1.17% 5.18% Cotton 3884.06 13215.18 3763.894 12382.937 -3.09 -6.30 MMF & Veg Wool 33.07 629.18 32.493 594.505 -1.73 -5.51

MMF 4168.49 11182.55 4288.689 11313.948 2.88 1.17

Silk & Veg 136.11 663.24 142.807 697.567 4.92 5.18 Change in Volumes Total 8221.73 25690.15 8227.88 24988.96 0.07 -2.73 Qty & value in mn M2 & US $

3.09% 1.73% Total apparel exports to the US by India and its competitors — Jan.-Apr. ’16 Cotton Wool Countries Jan.-Apr. ’15 Jan.-Apr. ’16 % Change Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value

India 390.96 1406.21 400.573 1425.488 2.46 1.37

Bangladesh 630.27 1826.41 658.953 1857.115 4.55 1.68 2.88% 4.92% China 2965.55 8047.52 MMF Silk & Veg 2986.252 7704.638 0.70 -4.26 Pakistan 198.95 458.91 178.842 395.841 -10.11 -13.74

Sri Lanka 171.22 705.37 166.831 702.218 -2.56 -0.45 [The information has been extracted Vietnam 1016.37 3237.94 1058.532 3348.844 4.15 3.43 from US custom site and further analyzed.] Qty & value in mn M2 & US $

44 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com EXPORT STATISTICS

Ladies dresses show growth Export of nightwear down from India from Bangladesh In the first four months of 2016 the US registered While at the start of the year there was growth in the decrease in the import of dresses by (-) 0.37% in segment for Bangladesh, in the period under review, value, while volumes increased 4.48%. India saw the trend was sharply downward. While the values increase in its exports in this category with 3.38% decreased (-) 6.39%, volumes were down (-) 66.57% 1 increase in value, while the volumes rose 1.74%. 2 in the reporting period.

Export of ladies blouses on Vietnam sees upswing in track for India exports of suits/ensembles Blouse exports from India registered 2.27% gains in The country has been seeing consistent increase in volumes and 1.63% rise in value of exports to the the export of suits/ensembles over the last few years, US in the category. In the meanwhile, US import of in the period under review value growth was 22.40%, blouses was also on the increase with volumes rising while volumes were up by 7.16%, as compared to the 3 7.38% and values increasing 4.34%. 4 same period in 2015.

US imports of Exports of T-shirts back on undergarments on the track for Bangladesh decline T-shirts have been among the big-ticket items from Bangladesh. The country registered increase in values While the decline in volume of imports by the US was of 6.78%, while the volumes of exports in the category (-) 6.22%, values also decreased (-) 6.11%. From to the US saw growth of 5.57%, as compared to the India, the values increased by 4.94% and volumes same period last year. upsurged 5.89%. Bangladesh saw values increase by 5 1.84% and volumes decrease (-) 1.92%. 6

Item wise percentage increase in total apparel imports by US from India, Bangladesh and Vietnam: Jan.-Apr. 2016 as against Jan.-Apr. 2015

Exports to US Total Imports by US India Bangladesh Vietnam APPAREL TYPE Qty % Value % Qty Value Qty % Value % Qty Value Qty % Value % Qty Value Qty % Value % Change Change Actual Actual Change Change Actual Actual Change Change Actual Actual Change Change Babies Wear -7.85 -10.09 2942736 64.32 22.02 -15.89 3436546 60.83 -12.89 -1.76 2378691 60.66 -8.74 -1.72 Foundation Garments -0.42 5.23 593514 42.548 23.65 27.07 1255945 26.56 -6.04 -14.27 653315 31.59 105.02 96.89 Jackets & Blazers -40.68 -6.77 50008 20.366 -62.40 -18.29 236224 58.48 -47.78 -8.59 967146 229.15 -31.85 -5.76 Ladies Blouses 7.38 4.34 3271132 245.062 2.27 1.63 1144100 64.89 28.95 31.76 2798629 154.31 4.44 9.61 Ladies Dresses 4.48 -0.37 2042376 181.832 1.74 3.38 819399 30.05 73.93 58.26 4186264 298.38 3.92 0.85 Ladies Skirts -17.56 -16.81 365745 29.484 -23.92 -23.69 467310 20.67 6.31 10.90 1236507 74.55 -10.28 -11.37 Legwear -5.60 -10.30 851574 4.962 -10.58 -10.72 61622 0.67 - - 834229 4.71 46.62 17.27 Men's Shirts -0.51 -2.71 1020673 80.187 16.29 6.04 3923584 226.22 -5.86 -7.34 1603911 129.53 24.18 20.20 Nightwear -67.41 -0.41 46256 32.678 -95.75 0.68 178440 13.91 -66.57 -6.39 252924 57.79 -76.56 5.59 Suits/Ensembles 4.47 -3.67 266491 25.159 31.60 -10.05 121174 6.43 -31.15 -44.78 853895 63.08 7.16 22.40 Sweaters -10.30 -16.05 11063 0.86 -37.15 -42.70 151350 8.50 27.16 44.89 64591 1.83 33.01 -50.98 Trousers 1.06 -1.13 2261146 161.938 1.75 0.28 17123241 950.30 3.47 2.00 15253587 899.58 9.71 11.54 T-Shirts 1.65 -3.11 8684393 347.991 0.66 -1.67 7271605 184.00 5.57 6.78 26093041 986.82 4.53 -0.20 Undergarments -6.22 -6.11 6219479 103.804 5.89 4.94 8584619 96.79 -1.92 1.84 12515964 159.13 -11.76 -11.31

Value in mn Euro and qty. in mn kg

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | Apparel Online India 45 EXPORT STATISTICS

Canada Apparel imports January - April 2016

Positive outlook for Canadian economy encouraging for trade According to a recent outlook by the Conference Board of Canada, the country’s economy is expected to grow by 1.5 per cent in 2016, with British Columbia to lead the country in growth. For the country as a whole, real GDP advanced 0.9 per cent in 2015, about half the pace recorded in 2014. So a projection of 1.5 per cent for 2016 is an improvement and the Conference Board predicts the Canadian economy will still be stronger in 2017. Nonetheless, there are plenty of headwinds for Canada’s economic growth prospects: Investment in the oil and gas sector is still falling; non-energy investment is lacklustre, so Canada may soon face lack of capacity in manufacturing; Canadian consumer spending may not improve because incomes aren’t rising sufficiently; consumers are also stretched thin with debt; growth prospects for the global economy remains poor, but significantly the US growth this year is also tepid.

Canada Imports Indian Exports Sri Lanka Exports Vietnam Exports 0.03% 8.08% 12.82% 3.79% While the knitted segment saw In knitted segment growth in value While it saw 20.59% growth In woven category there was growth decline of (-) 1.43%, woven of exports was of 3.10 % and in in woven category, in knitted of 5.97%, while in knitted segment segment registered growth of woven, it was of 11.29%. segment the country registered it registered increase of 1.91% in 1.34% in value terms. growth of 7.10% in value. value of exports.

B’Desh Exports China Exports Pakistan Exports 11.51% 6.36% 8.71% Though its woven exports The country lost in knitted as In the woven category there was increased by 10.65% in value, well as woven segment. In growth of 24.59%, while in knitted exports in knitted garments knitted segment the loss was of segment value of exports registered increased by 12.84%. (-) 7.25%, while the fall in woven decline of (-) 5.69%. garments was of (-) 5.54%.

Bangladesh’s export earnings gets apparel boost Riding high on apparel exports, Bangladesh registered an 8.95 per cent increase in export earnings, raking in US $ 30.66 billion in the July-May period of the current fiscal year 2015-16 as compared to the corresponding period of the previous fiscal year. Export earnings from the woven sector in the July-May period stood at US $ 13.16 billion, marking a growth of 12 per cent increase, while the knitwear sector fetched US $ 11.92 billion in the same period registering about 6.80 per cent growth. As per the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), export earnings in May stood at US $ 3.02 billion, which is 6.50 per cent higher than the US $ 2.84 billion earned in the same month of the FY 2015. The EPB data further underlines that earnings from the RMG exports in the 11 months of FY 2016 amounted to US $ 25.08 billion, which is about 9.47 per cent higher than the US $ 22.92 billion achieved in the same period of the FY 2015. According to the apparel exporters, shipments of readymade garment items to the major export destinations like the USA and the UK rose in the current fiscal year, shrugging off the safety concerns in RMG units following remediation and safety inspections.

Market Update Pakistan sees decline of textile export in FY 2015-16 Pakistan, the 8th largest exporter of textile products in Asia, has seen decline in textile exports of 7.72 per cent during the first 10 months of the current fiscal year, compared to the same period last year. According to a recent release by Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS), textile exports during July-April (2015-16) were worth US $ 10.395 billion compared to the exports worth US $ 11.265 billion during July-April of the previous financial year. Drop in demand for cotton yarn has been identified as a key contributor to the fall in exports of the textile sector. Export of cotton yarn dropped by 32 per cent from US $ 1.590 billion last year to US $ 1.081 billion during the current fiscal year.

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SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES DATA ANALYTICS Contact Rani Mahendru For Latest Apparel Export/Import +91-11-47390000 (512) Data, please visit [email protected] dataanalytics.apparelresources.com

India ITME 2016 Preparation for mega event on in full swing

attended by members of TEMSAD, industry and press/media members from Iran, Germany, UK, India, Brazil, ESSENTIALS Pakistan, Egypt, Ukraine, China, etc. India ITME 2016, the most awaited Riding high on textile technology and engineering ‘Make in India’ exhibition of the year, has garnered campaign, this much interest, excitement and anticipation amongst the international India business business community. Riding high on exhibition has ‘Make in India’ campaign, this India attracted big and business exhibition has attracted big small companies and small companies from across the from across the globe. Highlighting the importance globe. Highlighting of Indian market, the10th India ITME event shall showcase 8 new the importance India ITME Society and TEMSAD signing MoU during ITM-2016 at Istanbul… (Left to Right) Sanjiv Lathia, Chairman, India ITME Society; Adil Nalbant, President of TEMSAD; and Richard Salvatore, Secretary General of TEMSAD product launches for spinning, 7 for of Indian market, processing and 9 for weaving, in total the10th India 24 new products for the business ince the Vedic Age, India The MoU was initiated with intent to ITME event shall visitors to see first time. Apart from and Anatolia (Turkey) have share more information and develop showcase 8 new new products launches, 162 new sharedS strong trade and cultural better business relation between companies are participating this time, product launches relations. Both nations are secular the textile engineering industries of out of which 132 are Indian companies for spinning, 7 for and diplomatic, and the relations the two countries. A visit to Istanbul and 32 foreign companies. processing and 9 established between modern Turkey during the ITM 2016 by the team of Forging a stronger relationship and India way back in 1948 continues Sanjiv Lathia, Chairman, India for weaving, in total between India and Turkey, an to be warm and cordial. Today, India ITME Society; Seema Srivastava, 24 new products for increased presence from Turkey is Turkey’s 13th largest trade partner. Executive Director; Shekhar the business visitors especially in spinning, weaving and With deepening foreign trade and Shridhankar, Joint Director; and to see first time. cultural cooperation, the upcoming chemical & dyes chapters, are of high Rajiv Nagpal, General Manager edition of ITME is an appropriate interest to the domestic and regional created the historical moment for the opportunity for two leading textile business visitors at India ITME 2016. first MoU between India ITME Society engineering organisations – A new and exclusive hall for digital and TEMSAD on 1st of June 2016. Textile Machinery & Accessories printing, testing and measuring Manufacturers Association (TEMSAD) In order to showcase the opportunities equipment, dyestuff and chemicals and India International Textile present in India as well as propagate displaying innovative products from Machinery Exhibitions Society (India ‘the Make in India’ theme, India Taiwan, Turkey, Italy, Switzerland, ITME Society) – to enter into an MoU ITME Society hosted a networking China and Australia is attracting for mutual gains. dinner at Istanbul, which was well much visitor enquiries.

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India ITME Society is a non-profit industry body working for industry SPECIAL members and thus takes care that exhibitors are part of planning Coats ATTRACTIONS and promotional activities. A new completes Fast React AT INDIA ITME exclusive promotional activity is conceptualized whereby India ITME and Gotex acquisitions 2016 Society shall facilitate and support exhibitor product promotion and oats Global Services (CGS), the world’s leading industrial thread customer development in various SEMINARS manufacturer has acquired Fast React Systems, a UK-based second tier and rural markets of India Ccompany which provides software solutions and expertise to improve > Textile Technology as well as new international markets. the operational efficiency of manufacturers, sourcing companies and International Road Shows and Pan with Special Focus retailers in the apparel and footwear industries. Geared towards India Press Conferences are scheduled on Make in India – diversification of CGS’ operational excellence, the acquisition of Fast in Middle East, Bangladesh, Pakistan, National Institute of React Systems is another benchmark development in a short span of 12 Sri Lanka, African markets, Egypt, Fashion Technology months following Coats acquisition of GSD Corporate Ltd. in May 2015. Turkey, Iran, etc. in the forthcoming (NIFT) Paul Forman, Group Chief Executive, Coats, detailing on the months to attract business visitors development said, “There is a strong synergy between Fast React > Digital Printing over 6 days of the exhibition. Technology – Systems’ products, the CGS offerings, and the market demand. We To further strengthen the future share a footprint of both existing and target customers, and together, Technological Institute of textile engineering, India ITME we can provide even wider and more attractive product portfolio.” of Textile & Sciences Society actively supports education Andrew Brown, Group MD, Fast React Systems, shared that the (TIT) – Bhiwani and research and works closely with acquisition is a huge opportunity for Fast React’s products, customers > Textile Dyes & leading textile Institutes across globe. and employees and marks the start of an exciting new phase in the Chemical Technology In order to connect education to company’s development. Coats Global Services was launched in 2013 – Institute of Chemical industry and vice versa, ITME Society in response to customers’ demands to provide the sewn product Technology (ICT) – facilitates various international textile industries with expert insights, technical guidance and practical Mumbai institutes during exhibition to organize solutions to realize productivity improvements across the supply chain. workshops, panel discussions and > Fashion Show – Coats Speciality takes over Barcelona-based Gotex: In another thus provides platform for students, National Institute of development, Coats Speciality has acquired Barcelona-based Gotex, academicians and industrialists Fashion Technology a designer and manufacturer of high performance fibres, yarns and to come together, interact and tapes used in the telecommunications, energy and oil and gas sectors. (NIFT) communicate with each other. The company acquired 100 per cent stakes of Gotex which becomes > Professional The 10th India ITME to be held part of Coats Speciality with immediate effect. Development in December 2016 is expected to Coats has appointed Simon Boddie as the new CFO of the company, Workshop: Educating see a convergence of over 1,50,000 the Textiles Industry with effect from July 4, 2016. He has over 30 years of experience visitors from all around the World in finance, previously worked as Group Finance Director of (The Textile Institute, and Indian sub-continent. Visitors Electrocomponents plc, the FTSE 250 industrial distribution business UK) and delegations from countries like which operates in 32 countries worldwide, and is currently a Non- Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Executive Director at Michael Page International PLC, the FTSE 250 DISPLAYS Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, international specialist recruitment group. Kenya, Ethiopia, and Middle-East > Textile Sculpture & have already registered. India ITME- HANGERS / PACKAGING ACCESSORIES Ethnic Fabric – MIT 2016 is a catalyst to realize future Institute of Design – goals and growth target of textile industry and an opportunity for > Weavers of the textile engineering industry in India and neighbouring regions. It is also the right platform to interact > Specially designed with the Government officials and Photo Art Gallery avail the many incentives offered by > DKTE Institute, under the “Make in India” campaign. > Trade Delegation The event is supported by Department Meeting – of Heavy Industry, Textile Ministry, China Cotton Textile Government of India and INDEXTB, Information Centre, Government of Gujarat as State China Partner, making this the only privately organized exhibition supported by Central and State Government. It is also supported by 73 international industry associations, universities and media partners across the globe.

50 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com RESOURCE CENTRE

HOOK / BAR KNITTING / WEAVING YARN

EMBROIDERY FABRIC / LACES BUTTONS / BUCKLES

ELASTICS / TAPES ELASTICS / TAPES / BUTTON

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Apparel Online India

52 52 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com EYES & EARS

India Buying Consultant focusing more on highly value-added products; adds 4 new vendors

ith the changing scenario options in products. He further in the international apparel added that another reason retailW industry, some of the Indian to focus on high value-added buying houses are also changing “Earlier we were garments was the more profit their strategy for growth. The more into the margins that were possible good thing is that this change is as in such products buyers not only bringing in more business products with the negotiate comparatively less for them, but they are even able to average FOB range on costing. “We are focusing get more margins with the change of US $ 10-15 (in on every kind of value addition, in strategy. Going to complete woven) but now be it handwork, beadwork, 15 years of its establishment, our products are different kinds of embroidery India Buying Consultant (IBC), or printing. Our decision Gurgaon is one such buying agency from US $ 25-30,” has proved right and we are that has changed its strategy and informed Jitendra sure that the same trend of is now focusing more towards high- Sodhi more demand of highly value- value addition products, be it home added garment will remain furnishing, apparel, accessories and continue in the long term. or leather, as it deals with all four customers are willing to pay more Catering to 7 buyers of the It is a win-win situation for categories. “Earlier we were more if they are getting what they really US (retailers as well as everyone be it customer, buyer, into the products with the average want. They want to get noticed, wholesalers), IBC has recently suppliers or buying houses like FOB range of US $ 10-15 (in and few extra dollars are not a big added 4 new suppliers from us,” concluded Jitendra, who is woven) but now our products are deal for them,” informed Jitendra Delhi-NCR and Jaipur so that expecting 25 per cent growth in from US $ 25-30. We observed that Sodhi, MD, IBC. the buyers can have more the current fiscal year.

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