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SLANGHOEK AMPHITHEATRE NEW ROUTES ON CAPE TOWN’S BACKYARD BIG WALL

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FEATURES

06 SLANGHOEK AMPHITHEATRE NEW ROUTES ON CAPE TOWN’S BACKYARD BIG WALL BY SAM NIGHTINGALE

26 APOLLO LIFT-OFF CLIMBING AND EXPLORING ON APOLLO AND LUNA PEAKS, CEDERBERG BY ANT HALL

34 WHO’S YOUR (GRAND) DADDY? THE HISTORY OF ROCK CLIMBING BY MATTHEW HOLT

39 SOUTH AFRICA IN THE OLYMPIC GAMES BY TONY LOURENS

Rapping down the 500-metre Slanhoek Amphitheatre, Western Cape. Photo RICHARD HALSEY

2 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021 SOUTH AFRICA’S OWN BIG MOUNTAIN FILM FEST

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DATES AND SCREENING TIMES CAPE TOWN - 01 OCTOBER SOLD OUT CAPE TOWN - 08 OCTOBER JOBURG - 08 OCTOBER JOBURG - (15 OCTOBER TBC) Screening at CityRock

THE 5 FILMS WOODS N PEAKS by Garrreth Bird (28 mins)

KING LINE by Zander Botha (4 mins) A PRIVATE FREEFALL by Roberto Colombo (12 mins)

CRABTREE JAMBOREE by Garrreth Bird (4 mins) SIBAMBA-MAMA by Lise Wessels (4 mins)

Find VERTICAL SOUTH FF on Quicket, Instagram or Facebook Exploring ridges in the mountains above Montagu. Photo PATSY LOURENS

with landowners and ensure smooth relations wherever possible. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. And if it doesn’t work, then move on, and hopefully in the future renewed negotiations can change things. Access is a two-way street. It must be beneficial for the landowner as well as the climber. And climbers must learn to respect the wishes of landowners. It’s that simple. Taking an arrogant and belligerent stance, or deliberately trespassing, will definitely not add sugar to the mix and will invariably result in permanent closure. And don’t think we are the only ones suffering. This is a worldwide problem. Climbing areas are closed for many different reasons – environmental, religious, cultural, agricultural, privacy and others, I’m sure. In fact, it has become such an issue across the globe, that many alpine clubs and mountaineering associations have formed dedicated access committees, so that they can enter into talks and negotiations with landowners to come to an agreement that will allow climbers to access the crags and mountains on their property. The best and biggest example of this is The Access Fund in the USA, which I’m sure many of you EDITORIAL have heard of. This is a non-profit ‘rock climbing advocacy group’, and their mission ACCESS is two-fold, I quote, ‘First, keeping climbing areas open and gaining access to currently closed climbing areas. Second, they ACCESS promote an ethic of responsible climbing and conservation of the climbing environment.’ In South Africa, we face similar issues, but ACCESS in comparison, we are not that badly affected – we have tons of good quality rock with relatively few access issues. The Mountain ccess! It has almost become a Club of South Africa has various access profanity these days amongst some committees representing different provinces Aclimbers. How indignant some of us and areas, and the people in these get when we are told that we are not allowed committees are doing their best to negotiate to climb in a certain area, or have to pay a with landowners (private and government) fee, almost as though it is our God-given to maintain access arrangements and keep right to able to climb and cross any piece of relations ‘friendly’. land, and how dare the owner exercise their One thing is certain – there will never be right to prohibit us from doing so? free and open access for all to everywhere, Well, however you look at it, climbing, and access issues will remain with us for as much as it is a burning passion for eons to come. It is an ongoing process, and us, means diddly-squat to non-climber it is up to us to make good where and how landowners, and they have every right to we can. close their land to climbing, or limit access, or to levy an entrance fee. It is actually up Be safe in the hills to us, as climbers, to enter into negotiations Tony

4 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021

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COVER PHOTO: Sam Nightingale railing on the beautiful sandstone of pitch 8 on Meteor (25), Slanghoek Amphitheatre, Western Cape, South Africa. Photo GARRRETH BIRD

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SA Mountain is published 4 times a year (March, June, September, December) and concentrates on covering mountain activities such as mountaineering, rock climbing, alpine climbing and expeditions. It also features news on what’s happening around South Africa and the rest of the world as well as articles on training, latest gear reviews and interviews. UP YOUR GAME IN THE MOUNTAINS If you wish to contribute to the publication please email IMPROVE YOUR SCRAMBLING AND CLIMBING SKILLS all articles to [email protected]. Please note that articles may be edited or shortened at the editor’s discretion. Articles and images can and will be used on COURSES AVAILABLE associated online media and in conjunction with any of Moving safely over steep ground our media partners. Introductory climbing © Copyright on all material published in SA Mountain. • Advanced lead climbing Issue No. 78 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2021 ISSN: 1683-7444 082 550 6819 or [email protected] BLUEMOUNTAINADVENTURES.CO.ZA 6 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 NEW ROUTES SLANGHOEK ON CAPE TOWN’S Amphitheatre BACKYARD BIG WALL by SAM NIGHTINGALE

‘Are we on?’ I extended a chalky hand towards Richard ‘Squeeks’ Halsey expectantly as we stood on the boulder mats of CityROCK gym. After a characteristic pause of careful consideration, he shook my hand. My excitement was tempered by Squeeks’ recognition of the potential size of the undertaking. Little did either of us know this would be the start an 18-month journey involving several weeks spent on a wall strung up with hundreds of metres of fixed line. This would be a project that would lead to two new routes with a kilometre of climbing over 33 pitches and would take us both to our limits of endurance.

MAIN: Richard belaying Sam on pitch 13 of Meteor – the void and the beautiful Slanghoek Valley ever-present below. BELOW: Sam, Richard and Garrreth on top of the amphitheatre, prior to setting off on the Meteor send. Photos GARRRETH BIRD

SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA 7 Descending into the void. Photo GARRRETH BIRD

8 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 limbers are inspired by different Sam catching a few winks on the lower bunk of the things within the sport. Some bivy at Moonshine Ledge. Photo GARRRETH BIRD project hard sport routes, some boulder.C But for me, it was always long multi-pitch routes, particularly big walls that take multiple days to ascend. As a teenager growing up in England, I was given a glossy photo book on the world’s greatest climbs. Most of these were classic mountaineering routes involving gnarly adventurers with pics reflecting 50-mile stares peering out from behind icicle-laden eyebrows. But the photo I was drawn to was of Dean Potter, bare to the waist in the Californian sunshine, halfway up The Nose of El Capitan. He was on the famous Boot Flake pitch, reaching up for a hand jam, one foot cammed into the crack, the other braced out onto the smooth granite wall. The idea of free climbing at that Over the next decade, as I got more level, halfway up a huge cliff, with 500 experience on long climbs, I found a new metres of rock in every direction, just climbing goal creeping in, persistently seemed like the coolest thing imaginable. nagging at my thoughts. To establish It is no exaggeration to say that this my own big wall route seemed like the picture changed the course of my life. As ultimate adventure; questing up a huge soon as I finished university, I headed to cliff, swinging around on unclimbed Yosemite with a plan to climb El Capitan. rock, and camping on ledges no one had I was woefully underprepared, having ever set foot on before. I soon realised never climbed above 20 (6b) before and that, unlike climbing El Cap, this was only having done a handful of multi-pitch not a goal that could be achieved with a routes. At Camp 4 I found an amazingly 6-week holiday and flight to California. supportive community of international There are no new routes left in Yosemite, climbers. We had varying degrees of skill unless you’re Tommy Caldwell. The next and experience but were united by an step up from Yosemite seemed enormous, enthusiasm to climb The Big Stone. Six mostly involving remote settings at high Dream big. weeks later, after a lot of trial and error, altitude with dangerous mountain weather. I found myself standing at the top of El It appeared that this dream was one that Cap having climbed The Nose in four would have to wait until I could take Pack small. days, exhausted and exhilarated with the a year off work, gather a team of keen growing feeling that I had discovered big wall climbers and raise funds for an something special. expedition. >>

Sam relaxing on Moonshine Ledge, the basecamp bivy 120 metres from the top of the wall. Photo GARRRETH BIRD bags on your back. We made it to the base after a terrifying 9-hour approach, slightly daunted by the 500-metre route standing above us. Two days of great climbing later, we pulled over the top. We were all ecstatic to have competed the route, but my overriding feeling was of anticipation. This vast cliff seemed mostly unclimbed and there must be opportunity for new routes here. The only other route on Slanghoek, Ruby Supernova, was established in 2018 by a group of visiting European and Canadian professional climbers, Innes Papert, Joseph Pfnür, Luka Lindič and Paul McSorley. This route is on the right- hand side of the wall where the climbing is of a slightly different style. It was climbed at 27 (7b+) without any bolts or points of aid.

Click here for an awesome video of their ascent

At the time of writing, it has only seen one repeat free ascent – Teo Iliev, Jed Johnson and Andy Court with a valiant attempt in 2019, but not quite managing to free every pitch. I was amazed that there were no more routes on this wall and that Private Universe remained the only one up the Sam pulling a reachy move near dominant overhanging section of the cliff. the top of pitch 4 (24) on Meteor. Photo GARRRETH BIRD I resolved to find a new route. I needed to rope in a partner for this mission, and one person came to mind. In 2018, I moved to Cape Town from final section. Prior to this, attempts by ‘Squeeks’ Halsey may be the most prolific the UK. I had heard about the famous Tony Dick, Chris Lomax, Jonathan Fisher, new-router in the Western Cape with over of Rocklands and was aware Butch de Bruin and Dave Cheesemond 600 first ascents to his name and counting. of the picturesque trad climbing on Table had all stopped around pitch 7, where Before coming to South Africa, I had Mountain, but had never heard of big wall the steepest part of the wall kicks out. A never put up a new route, but this seemed climbing in South Africa. I had no idea Private Universe is graded 22 A1 – the to be almost all Squeeks did. With him, that just 100 kilometres outside my new ‘A1’ referring to the fact that 3 of the I found myself marching past the world- home city was the huge overhanging wall 22 pitches involve aid climbing and/or class boulders of Rocklands with our trad of Slanghoek Amphitheatre. bolt ladders (passing blank sections of racks jangling, off to establish a number My first trip to Slanghoek was in March climbing by pulling from bolt to bolt). of distinctly un-world-class trad routes in 2019 to climb A Private Universe with Although most climbers since then have the pass. Rob Zipplies and Oliver Williams, who used the same approach, it has since been Shortly after the CityROCK handshake, were preparing for their own Yosemite climbed free by a slight variation at 26 Squeeks and I hiked in from Bains Kloof trip. At that time there were only two (7b) by Tinie Versfeld and Dave Birkett. Pass to the top of the cliff. Slanghoek routes at Slanghoek, A Private Universe Our plans to climb A Private Universe Amphitheatre is an impressive and and Ruby Supernova. A Private Universe were nearly scuppered when the farmer unusual structure. It forms a sweeping was the more commonly climbed, and the denied access to hike in from the bottom. corner with a large incut overhang at only one to ascend the steep overhanging Hilton (one of the first ascensionists) its apex, finishing abruptly at a grassy section that forms the tallest part of the informed us that it was possible to hike plateau. It feels as if one quarter of the wall. It was established by David Davies, in from the back and descend to the base mountain has been scooped out, like Hilton Davies and Matthew Sim in 2002. via a gully. This gully was steep and loose someone taking a spoonful out the side of This impressive first ascent of the wall in sections but was ‘okay’ according a dessert. We walked around the corner involved 13 visits over two years. They to Hilton. As it turned out, Hilton’s to look into the abyss below. As we used ground-up tactics for the most part, version of okay involved death-defying peered through our binoculars, one line ascending fixed lines to their high points, down-climbs using clumps of grass as immediately stood out – a series of open- then rapping in from the top to finish the handholds – not ideal with heavy haul book corners running up the entire >> 10 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021 Richard following the mind-blowingly exposed final ‘Space Cowboy’ pitch (22) onMeteor . Photo GARRRETH BIRD

SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA 11 “On more than one occasion we found a sheath worn through, and the fraying core exposed”

Garrreth on the steep face climbing of pitch 12 (23) on Meteor. Haul bags can be seen dangling out in space behind him. Photo SAM NIGHTINGALE

12 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 mid-section of the cliff. It looked down the cliff. The exposure is immediate, a full body pull up/sit up to gain a few climbable, but we were quite a distance and it took some time before our stomachs inches, sometimes with heavy rack, ropes away and would only know for sure got used to swinging around in space or drill hanging from your harness. As we once on the rock. Worryingly, the corner with 500 metres of air beneath our feet. got further down the wall, we had a few seemed to run out for a 30–50 metre From what we could see, the top sections hundred metres of free-hanging jumaring section at the steepest part, about a third looked climbable. This should link us to to get out, which would take several hours of the way up. Here, the cliff was more the corner system below, which led most to ascend. Due to the numerous sharp overhung on bright orange rock that of the way down the wall. Over the next edges, we used backup ropes for jumaring implied hard featureless sandstone. There few months we got further and further in addition to regular tie-offs. On more were no obvious climbable weaknesses down the cliff, approaching from the top than one occasion we found a sheath worn and it was entirely possible this section each time. Soon it was too far to jumar through, and the fraying core exposed; would block the route. out each night, so we established a camp an unsettling feeling when you have been We knew the corner system could be on a comfortable ledge about 120 metres hanging ten metres out from the wall with entered at its lower section. We both from the top. By day, we would quest a gaping void below! remembered passing under it on A Private down the corner, cleaning loose rock and With so much work to get in and out Universe and seeing abandoned gear climbing sections on a shunt to ensure of the wall we soon realised it was worth hanging in the corner above. Subsequent it was protectable and within our . doing longer trips so we started spending investigations revealed that Joe Möhle had With each rope length descended, we five days on the wall at a time. It is a the idea to attempt the same corner system became increasingly excited to find more totally immersive experience to spend that many years before. Impressively, he chose and more excellent climbing on natural long in the vertical world, eating, sleeping to do so ground-up rope solo! Starting on protection at a reasonable grade. We got and climbing on the cliff. We realised why the lower pitches of A Private Universe, closer and closer to the steep blank section Hilton and co. had named their route A his trip ended with a long fall in the first below with anticipation. Private Universe all those years ago – the corner, injuring a leg and his lower back, There is a lot of work involved in doing enclosed amphitheatre felt like you were resulting in a long hobble back home. a route this way, and we would typically in your own little world. Nonetheless an impressive effort given the get back from these trips completely Progress was slow, as we wanted to intimidating nature of the cliff. exhausted. The jumaring is all out in make sure we found the best climbing on We rigged an anchor above where we space, and without rock to brace your the cleanest rock. Squeeks’ meticulous thought the route would finish, and set off feet on, each ascent of the rope involves approach meant that every hold had to >>

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Contact the MCSA for more info: mcsa.org.za [email protected] Exploring old haunts . . . Photo TIM JONES Sam focusing on the crux, grade 25 section (pitch 11) of Meteor. Photo GARRRETH BIRD

be scrubbed, every loose flake detached, places for gear, so we weren’t able to went well but was slow going. Most and every piece of vegetation removed. climb it on a shunt as we would do other pitches are sustained in the low- to mid- Cleaning the bigger rocks was fun . . . pitches. We were ecstatic that this section twenties (around 6b–7a) and, with the watching a block as big as a washing wouldn’t block the route. The climbing additional time for hauling, we only made machine tumble into the abyss far out looked amazing, with sharp in-cut crimps it to the crux pitch at sunset. I had one from the cliff before exploding on the up a shallow groove on steep solid rock. attempt at this pitch, but the climbing was ground below. If we were near the top We placed bolts and continued down. far beyond my onsight grade. Reluctantly, of the route there would be a two second From here the corner system ends at I pulled through it and we continued on. delay between seeing the explosion at the a bolted anchor on A Private Universe. We made it to the sleeping ledge long after base and hearing the boom! We climbed This is where we had looked up to see midnight, our first of several experiences most of the pitches on a shunt, making Joe Möhle’s abandoned gear as Private climbing this route in the dark. Two days sure the moves would go, and working Universe passes under the corner. The later we topped out, having freed every out if any bolts were required. Our ethic first 180 metres of Private Universe to pitch except the crux. We could have was to place bolts where they were this point takes a snaking path following opened the route then at 25 A1, but the necessary for safety or would improve weaknesses and ledges. It was the first crux looked enticing and just within our the climbing by maintaining the flow. time we knew the route would go, as, if grasp. If it were a sport pitch at our local Squeeks and I are very different shapes necessary, we could share the Private crag, it looked like the kind of thing we and climb with totally different beta, so Universe pitches to this point. Of course, could project. The idea of working a pitch we made a rule that the site of each bolt an independent line would be better, and like this halfway up such a huge route was had to be confirmed by us both. This was after a lot of swinging around we managed reminiscent of the Dean Potter photo that satisfyingly thorough but made for slow to find a way through the lower sections inspired all of this over 20 years before! progress. on great face climbing. This meant the We resolved to come back stronger, Eventually we made it to the blank route was now more or less direct from thinking a few weeks of training should section we had been worried about, and the base of the cliff, through the slabs, up do it. In reality it was over a year until we rapped down into the overhang. We were the steeper orange face and into the corner would return. delighted by what we saw . . . there was above, crossing over the winding lower COVID hit and I travelled to the UK to a shallow continuation of the corner, too sections of Private Universe three times work, thinking I’d be gone for a month thin to be visible from the top. It would as it went. or two. Over seven months passed before certainly need bolts, and the climbing In February 2020, we stood at the base the borders reopened and I was able to might be too hard for us, but it was for the first time and pulled the ropes. The return. I had been in London, a long way climbable. Pulling into the rock was hard huge corner system stood as an appealing from any rock, and all climbing gyms as it was so overhung and there were few and aesthetic line above us. The climbing were closed due to the restrictions. I

14 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021 hadn’t climbed once in this time and was in poor shape. Squeeks, in contrast, had spent a lot of time at Slanghoek, mostly alone. He had now mapped out the entire cliff in detail and identified two potential new lines. One of these was out on the right-hand side, near the Ruby Supernova route. After finding and cleaning the route on his own he pulled in Garrreth Bird for the send. They named the route Red Giant (24). The style was similar to Ruby Supernova – a completely trad line with no bolts. The other potential line Squeeks found was in the steep section next to Private Universe, about 20–30 metres to the right of our corner route. Squeeks and Garrreth had done a scouting trip down this section while I was away and it looked climbable. There was no way I was in shape for our corner route, and they kindly waited for me to get back so I could join them to work on this new line as a team of three. The climbing was stunning, and of a completely different style to our corner route. It involved a lot of face climbing, moving between crimps on hard orange rock. Much of it felt more like a sport climb than trad, although the gear was good and it would only need a few more bolts than our corner route. After several more visits to clean and bolt this line, Garrreth, Squeeks and I went for the send in February 2021. The Sam engrossed on the great crack climbing (23) on crux pitch was slightly easier on this route Moonshine Corner, near where Joe Möhle’s rope and did not shut us down. Garrreth flew solo attempt ended. Photo RICHARD HALSEY though the 25 (7a+) section and we topped out three days later. It was great to have Sam following the crux pitch (27) Garrreth along. He is a strong climber of Moonshine Corner. and has an eccentric sense of humour (as Photo RICHARD HALSEY you might expect from a man who has changed his name to include a triple r) which kept energy levels high. He’s also a professional photographer, so we have some incredible pictures to show for our efforts. He would go to extraordinary lengths to get great shots – for example after sending the final pitch of the climb he set up a stance hanging in space 8 metres below the top anchor so he could get photos of us seconding below him! We named this route Meteor, in honour of our friend Teo Iliev who tragically died a few weeks before our send. Teo loved Slanghoek and had been more excited than anyone about our development there. He would have had the second ascent without doubt. With his name embedded in the title we hope this route stands as a permanent tribute to Teo and the way he lived his life – a bright light burning in the sky. >> SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA 15 With Meteor done, one thing remained: to send our corner route. On one of the Meteor scouting trips we had swung across to our corner to work the crux pitch on top-rope. We both managed all the moves – they were hard, but not as hard as we thought, and seemed within our grasp. In April 2021, we went back. This time we took my portaledge so we could set it up on the anchor below the crux. A comfortable stance would allow us to take our time and treat it like working a sport route at our local crag. After sending the lower pitches, I had the first go at the crux. The climbing is technical and beta intensive, and I did not get my sequence right, having forgotten the exact moves. Frustrated, I came down. At this point, Squeeks got out his written notes. In true Squeeks style he had videoed himself talking through his specific sequence, then transcribed that into written move-by-move beta! I laughed at the time, but it worked. He remembered the sequence perfectly and flew up the pitch. I seconded clean, and we headed onwards up the wall. By this time, night had fallen and again we climbed in the dark. A full moon was shining so brightly that at times we didn’t need head torches. We named the route Moonshine Corner (27/7b+) after all the late-night climbing involved. It is also an oblique reference to the lockdown (with its prohibition and boom in pineapple sales) that had so delayed our free attempt. Our route names continue the space theme of Private Universe as a mark of respect to the first ascensionists almost 20 years before. We are grateful they pioneered such an amazing cliff. To our knowledge, it is the tallest steep cliff in South Africa and may be the tallest climbable overhanging wall for a long way beyond. I am delighted that I was able to achieve my goal of putting up a new big wall route. It is a testament to the amount of rock and opportunity for exploration in South Africa that such an epic and relatively unexplored big wall would stand in Cape Town’s backyard. We hope these routes see many more ascents – we have spent a lot of time making them as user friendly as possible. The climbing is not easy, but also not desperate, and cruxes can mostly be aided if necessary. The bolting keeps them safe and enjoyable rather than scary and bold. Moonshine Corner has 14 lead bolts and Meteor has 24, each spread over roughly 500 metres of climbing so they retain a Richard styling the grade 24 trad feel. We have bolted some stances to ‘Sport Pitch’ (pitch 14) of Meteor. avoid hauling on questionable trad anchors, Photo GARRRETH BIRD

16 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 which can be a little scary. Ledges are 15 Slanghoek Amphitheatre Topo very comfortable and give the opportunity 18 17 to break the routes into two or three days 4 depending on speed and ability. Although 22 Private Universe is usually climbed in 18 two days, we found the steep sustained 13 climbing more than justified three days 17 3 on the wall, particularly if you are trying 25 16 to free every pitch. Beyond the lower slab 17 18 pitches, the hauling is so clean that proper 16a 22 22 15 haul bags are not strictly necessary. Our 14 16 old rucksacks were mostly hanging out in space and survived multiple ascents. 2 12 16 We have also fixed up a rap route that 16 16 15 simplifies the descent. All this information 20 23 is in a topo which can be found in the 19 link in the topo, lovingly put together by 11 Squeeks. On this topo you will also see 15 17 Voyager (24), a 4-pitch outing covering Possible bivy 15 the top 100 metres of the cliff, for those 13 14 wanting to experience the Slanghoek 18 22 exposure without the big wall logistics. 20 18 After sending Moonshine Corner, my body ached and motivation was sapped. 24 14 Squeeks on the other hand went straight 14 13 19 10 off to Rocklands, his appetite for climbing 24 19 more insatiable than mine! I am grateful 13 for his endless enthusiasm and have 13 22 learnt so much from him. To remain good 12 x 24 humoured in this environment is a real 21 22 test of character and there were moments 24 Red Giant Cave 12 for both of us when this was stretched to 13a Ruby Bivy Ledge 9 12 the limit. To see the funny side when you 11 12 19 feel the warm rain of misaimed urination Long Ledge 20 Moonshine Ledge from above is no mean feat, particularly 23 16 23 8 11 when hungry, thirsty and exhausted! 11 21 15 This, and many other difficult moments, 10 25 11 10 22 A1 tested us both at various times. I can’t Moonshine Cave 21 say that I always kept my cool as well as 10 18 9 7 23 Squeeks did. But somehow getting peed 9 22 A1 8 24 9 7 19 27 on is what big wall climbing is all about. 24 9 8 24 21 There is something in the committing 20 A1 6 8 and exhausting experience of multi-day 27 6 22 routes that makes them feel so profound. 7 8 23 Private Bivy 24 The highs and lows of adventure. A test of 20 7 5 FULL ROUTE BOOK mind, body and spirit. I can’t wait to go 6 Mega Ledge White: Moonshine Corner (27) 23 PG back. 23 25 6 (27) 19 19 White:Yellow: Moonshine Meteor Corner (25) 19 18 Yellow: Meteor (25) Big and relieved smiles all round: Squeeks, Sam and 4 5 Black: A Private Universe (22A1/26) 6 6 5 Black: A Private Universe (22 A1/26) Garrreth on the top of the wall after sending Meteor. 5 Light Blue: Voyager (24) 21 A1 20 4 Light Blue: Voyager (24) Photo GARRRETH BIRD 25 23 WhiteWhite Dot: Dot:Ruby SupernovaRuby Supernova (27) (27) 4 4 5 19 YellowYellow Dot: Dot:Red Giant Red (24 Giant PG) (24 PG) 18 24 Topo: RICHARD HALSEY Topo: Richard Halsey

We would like to thank the Mountain Club of South Africa for donating bolts for Moonshine Corner and ring hangers for the rap route. Also, thanks to Alex Bester for lending us his drill, John Halsey for lending us his 4x4 on multiple occasions for access, Michael Owen and Moritz Thilo for donating rope for fixed lines, and all others who gave their time and advice during the process.

SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA 17 EXPOSURE

Richard Halsey on the final bowel-sucking exposed ‘Space Cowboy’ pitch (22) on Meteor, Slanghoek Amphitheatre. Photo GARRRETH BIRD (while belaying hanging in space) EXPOSURE

Alessandro Lamberti trying the famous and fingery Wolfgang Güllich classic, Action Direct (9a), Waldkopf, Frankenjura, Germany. Photo YANN CORBY GEAR REVIEWS

Leisure Gear by

by TONY LOURENS

Like most prestigious climbing brands, over the last few years Black Diamond have made some serious inroads into the leisure and lifestyle side of their apparel, footwear, and packs. I recently tested two new products, the Prime approach shoe, and the Street Creek 30-litre backpack; two excellent additions to the Black Diamond stable.

Black Diamond Prime The big question is, what do you want from a ‘lifestyle’ shoe which fits the bill perfectly as and they have also been my go-to urban an approach shoe? Right, so the first thing, a shoe that can be worn around town, to the jollers from morning to night. I would definitely and one of the more important (as I’m sure climbing gym and also to your local crags and recommend you try out the new Primes if most will agree), is the sticky rubber sole. boulder areas. you are in the market for a pair of approach This, in essence, is what really separates the They have flat, dotty rubber soles featuring shoes. They are great performers and look ‘approach’ shoe from your common or garden Black Diamond’s Black-Label-Street rubber, really stylish. ‘running’ shoes, or ‘takkies’. You need that which have proven their longevity on the sticky grip to be able to confidently boulder- Session approach shoe from last year. hop, scramble and climb. ‘Non-approach’ Besides the substantial rand wrapping the SPECIFICATIONS shoes just do not compare. And you can entire front of the shoe, the front part of the Materials: Suede leather, EVA midsole, quickly differentiate between a serious sole has a nice smooth section on the toe BD Black-Label-Street rubber mountain-goer and a casual hiker by their box, and grips supremely well on rock, and Elastic heel strap makes it quick and footwear. the flexibility of the shoe and the rounded toe easy to get the shoes on and off Of course, after some decades of R&D, makes it great for scrambling and climbing. Weight each: 302.5 g (10.7 oz) one now also expects a lot more from an The generous tab on the back makes it approach shoe than just sticky rubber. really easy to pull onto your foot and for We want great fit and stability, comfort, an clipping to your harness. effective lacing system, a good functional The soft, lined suede uppers and the toe rand, and significant durability. And, of padded tongue are really comfortable, course, with all these factors we also want and the lacing system cinches up easily them as light as possible and a little ‘bendy’. to pull the shoe snugly around your foot. So, not too demanding, are we?! As it is a cross lifestyle/approach shoe, BD’s new Prime approach shoe, is a little the soft EVA midsole is designed with bit of a hybrid. It basically fits all the criteria, sensitivity and comfort in mind, but also but it is not quite as robust as you would like has good support. from a dedicated approach shoe that you can I have used them for a while now and punish on gruelling approaches and long, have visited many crags in the Montagu rough descents. That is because the Prime is area (some quite off the beaten track), have rammountain.co.zaR2299 not a dedicated approach shoe. The Prime is taken them on a short trip to the Cederberg,

20 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021 R2599 Black Diamond rammountain.co.za Street Creek 30 RT

Here again, Black Diamond have thrown the between the thick back pad and the main perfect ingredients into the mixing bowl to body of the pack, and another smaller zip pull a genuine ‘urban to crag’ pack out the pocket alongside it for smaller things, like proverbial oven. memory sticks, note book, etc. The main To start with, the Street Creek 30 is body is spacious enough for a day on the hill designed along similar lines to the rest of the and has another zip pocket on the inside, for tried and tested Creek range – super durable other utilities, like your keys, wallet, passport, ballistic nylon, a semi-cylindrical-shaped snack bar, etc. haul-bag-design body, and, what I really like, On the outside front of the pack you have a SPECIFICATIONS the flat bottom, which allows the bag to stand full-length zip on the side, which reveals even Materials: 1260d Ballistic nylon unaided, making it easy to pack and unpack. more storage space. This I found particularly Weight: 955 g But the Street Creek 30 is much more than handy for my field notes and camera when Volume: 30 L just that. It is made for the urban climber. A out in the hills. And the bottom section has pack that is as at home toting your laptop a separate pocket for your phone and other and other work paraphernalia around, as it is knick-knacks. The front of the Creek also well, and the strap and slip-through buckle carrying your kit to the climbing gym, or your has flat, low profile mounted daisy chains on over the top does the rest, keeping your bag gear for a day at your local crag, or indeed a each side, handy for strapping or clipping on well secured. There is also a broad handle on mixture of all of them. excess kit. the side of the pack, so it can be toted around The pack comes fitted with broad, EVA like a briefcase, and two haul loops at the top LET’S LOOK AT SOME OF THE FEATURES: padded shoulder straps, removable sternum of the pack. strap, and hip belt and padded back pad for In short, the Street Creek 30 is a durable, The Creek has a 15-inch zip-sealed and excellent comfort, whether commuting around well designed pack, which feels equally at lined laptop sleeve along the back of the town or walking up to your local crag. home in the office, travelling, in the gym, or at pack, keeping your MacBook nicely protected The roll top closure seals the bag really the crag. A pack for all seasons!

R1549 eigerequipment.co.za Selena Women’s Harness by PATSY LOURENS

Petzl’s new Selena harness is designed well for a tag line, shoes, or windbreaker. specifically for sport and gym climbing, but The waistbelt buckle is smooth and also performs fairly well as a trad harness. simple to operate with its auto double Let’s take a look at the product first and back system and the belt loops have a foremost as a climbing harness: thin strip of silicone on the inside to keep As one would expect, the Selena the belt from slipping out – quite a neat is manufactured to Petzl’s excellent little addition, I thought. The belay loop standards – the broad waistband and and double attachments are super robust flinch nor flurry you can have those babies leg loops are beautifully contoured and and the non-adjustable leg loops have a unclipped and ready for relief in no time, padded, and lined with a soft porous generous elasticated ‘self-adjustment’, so without having to loosen any other part of woven mesh material for maximum it is easier to fit over varying sizes of legs. the harness. comfort and breathability. The outside Okay, so what makes it a women’s On the whole, the Selena is an material has a soft denim look and feel to harness? Well, it’s all in the fit, really. excellent fit for a woman’s body, a well- it, which comes across as really stylish. Once you are using the harness, it designed and comfortable harness, The gear loops are slightly offset – the becomes apparent that it is thoughtfully and the stunning two-tone violet colour rigid front loops are great for racking tailored and designed for smaller and finishes it off perfectly. draws, staying nice and stiff and easy to curvier bodies. It has a shaplier waistband work with, while the back loops are tucked and a lengthened belay loop, making it sit a little further round the back, but angled above the hipline. SPECIFICATIONS slightly forward, keeping your other kit, And let’s not forget the all-important Materials: Nylon, polyester, EVA, like belay device, extra draws, etc., easy ‘going for a pee’ manoeuvre. The Selena polyurethane, aluminium, to reach and out of the way when carrying has twin elastic straps with very easy- high-modulus polyethylene a pack. And the haul loop at the back of to-operate clips, keeping your leg loops Sizes: SX – L the harness is broad and robust, so works attached to your waistband. With nary a Weight: 370 g to 450 g

SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA 21 GEAR REVIEWS

arlier this year I was introduced the functions. But that is the beauty of includes a whole range of ‘Activity Data’ Eto Garmin’s flagship watch, the YouTube. Here you will find tutorials on like distance, time, average speed, Fenix 6 Pro, during a 3-day hiking and just about anything and everything the calories burnt, heart rate, elevation gain peak-bagging trip in the Cederberg Fenix was designed to do and also what and descent. As well as a host of other mountains. I was immediately intrigued, it can do for you in your specific field, data like weather information, sunset then fascinated, then staggered by the whether its running, cycling, hiking or and sunrise times, steps climbed, floors sheer ‘tech power’ of this device and mountaineering. Not for rock climbing climbed, and lots more. You can also how much it could actually do in terms of per se, on a vertical wall, though; this sync to your smart phone’s music. data storage and delivery, and of course is something that still needs to be But to include everything in one review navigation and tracking. addressed and perfected in any tracking would make this a long and complex But where does one start with a device, as well as ‘GPS fall-out’ when article. Most of the information you need review on a piece of kit that has so much moving around steep rock walls. can be accessed by watching simple to offer? One could write a small book As I said, the Fenix 6 Pro can do YouTube tutorials. What I am going to on what the 6 Pro can do and how to way more than you think, and indeed concentrate on in this review is how the operate and find your way through all more than you even expect from it. This Fenix 6 Pro operates in the mountains.

22 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021 Photo MANDY RAMSDEN

Fenix 6

Review by TONY LOURENS Pro watch

In my day to day work as an author of climbing and hiking guidebooks, I am continually traipsing across mountains, sometimes on trails, and often off-path. My research entails finding the best ways to approach rock climbing areas, the optimum line across high mountain ridges, and the best way to negotiate hiking trips through valleys and over mountains. The Fenix 6 Pro, has excellent functionality when it comes to these kinds of tasks. And synced to the Garmin Explore App, makes it easy and user-friendly to operate.

SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA 23 GEAR REVIEWS

Waypoints What I need (and use) most out of a GPS unit Waypoints are one of the most important the top left corner of the page to open a aspects of laying down my GPX tracks. detailed menu bar. Scroll down and click To create a GPX track What readers of guidebooks enjoy on training, then scroll down and click over mountain terrain are points of interest along the way, on courses. This will open up a map like good view points, great places to and also a long white window on the This is so easy to do with the 6 Pro: After stop for tea or lunch, caves, swimming left. This window lists all your uploaded selecting ‘hiking’ as your activity, simply holes, the list goes on. Even though it is courses. At the bottom right you will push the big top right button to select explained in the text of the book, there see the word ‘import’ beneath ‘Create the timer and push it again to start the is nothing quite as exact as a waypoint. a Course’. Click on import. Drag your timer. This then automatically starts the This pin points a place to within a few chosen GPX file into the box and click process. To simultaneously access any metres. Unlike my old hand-held GPS on ‘Get Started’. Select ‘Hiking’ from the of the other info relevant to your current unit, waypoints using the 6 Pro synched drop-down menu, press ‘Continue’, and activity, just push the bottom left button to the Explore App is a piece of cake. there you will see your course detailed and keep scrolling to get info on your Simply touch the + at the top left of your on the map, with an elevation graph elevation, total ascent and descent, time screen in the app, then ‘create waypoint’ and some important information as well. of day, compass bearings, and of course and voila! Type in a name and off you Name and ‘Save New Course’. Now the map showing your track (which can go. it will appear in your list of uploaded be zoomed in and out and moved from courses. Now select the course you side to side). Once you have finished To download and follow want, and at the bottom left, click ‘Send your activity, push the top right button a GPX track to Device’, and hey presto it is now on again and it will stop the timer. You can The easiest way to do this is to go to your watch. then save this track or resume. At the Going to the watch, press the top right https://connect.garmin.com/ same time, the track and information button and scroll down to ‘Navigate’. also appear on the Garmin Explore App modern/ Click on that and scroll down to courses. on your smart phone, which is handy as Here you will be able to find all the Click through, and all your courses will it has a bigger screen making it easier information you may possibly need on all be there. Select your desired course, to see stuff. You can then export your your activities, including graphs, charts then press ‘Do Course’. Your 6 Pro will GPX track from your phone, by email or and stats that you didn’t even know tell you when you start and finish the WhatsApp, and store it in a dedicated existed. But on this site you can also course and will also alert you if you go folder for later use. upload any GPX tracks that you may off route at any time, and then tell you want to use: Click the grey arrowhead on when you are on route again.

24 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021 SHOE & BAG REPAIRS

Specialists in the repair of Boots, Shoes, Bags, Backpacks and all leather goods

Create a GPX track Hard click the middle-left button and on a map scroll down to ‘History’. Click through This is also something that I use from ‘activities’, then scroll through your library time to time – plotting a feasible GPX to the desired activity. Click on that and trail on the map, then downloading this then choose between a selection of info to your Pro 6, so you can navigate the headings for all relevant information plotted course over the chosen section of relating to that activity. mountain. This is really handy if you are The Fenix 6 Pro does all of the above, into exploring uncharted terrain. but what makes the 6 Pro stand out is Again, go to https://connect. its ease of use (in conjunction with the garmin.com/modern/ and click Apps), the functionality of the various through Training to Courses as for tasks and the exceptional battery life, importing an established course. Now, which can last up to 14 days! A huge click the ‘Create a Course’ and choose improvement on past models and also ‘Hiking’. Now you can click your track other GPS watches. There is also the on the map, but be sure to choose the Solar model, which has a solar panel ‘Freehand’ tool. Once done, ‘Save New built into the watch face to facilitate HIKING BOOTS Course’ and send to device. Navigate the charging. Vibram Soles supplied & fitted course as explained above. I have used, abused, tested and retested the Fenix 6 Pro over the last Useful information at a glance 10 weeks over uncharted terrain in the CLIMBING SHOES Langeberg Mountains, across multi-day It’s great to be able to check your device ridge crossings in the Cederberg, and Stealth rubber supplied & fitted and immediately (without pressing any up some of the Western Cape’s most buttons) be furnished with important and rugged 2000-metre peaks. It has proved useful information. On the 6 Pro, you can to be a very reliable and truly amazing BACKPACKS choose the watch face to suit your needs. piece of equipment that no dedicated Just hard press the middle-left button, outdoor person should be without, but, as Stitching & fabric repairs select ‘Watch Face’ and scroll through a I said, it is impossible to cover everything selection of watch faces. I have set mine the 6 Pro can do in a review, so I strongly so my watch face shows, at a glance, my urge you to play around with the unit POSTAL SERVICE WELCOME altitude, the barometric pressure, battery and watch a few YouTube tutorials, life, date and time. particularly pertaining to your needs. ALL WORK DONE ON THE PREMISES The other ‘at a glance’ feature I found There is nothing the Fenix 6 Pro can’t do. FREE CUSTOMER PARKING really useful is the ‘History’ widget. It just needs a competent operator. IN FRONT OF SHOP

APPS TO DOWNLOAD TO USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE FENIX 6 PRO 65 Wale Street, Bo-Kaap, Garmin Explore: This stores all your activities and maps and gives you basic info. Cape Town, 8001 Garmin Connect: Stores all your activities, but also gives an inordinate amount of (021) 424-3858 information on each activity. Just about all the information you would want to take away from your hiking trip. 08 65 18 18 30 [email protected] www.rocksole.co.za

pp. G.K & R.G JAGA aPollo LIFT-OFF

he Cederberg is full of special in 1935, and then, in 1937, Le Roux were never written up. The area was places, splashed liberally with deep returned with Bert Berrisford, Brian Quail ‘rediscovered’ on one of our multi-day orange, sky blue, the wild wind and Joan Fothergill (who later married trips exploring the Breekrantz properties T(and the occasional leopard), and it evokes Quail). Remember that in 1928, the in 2010. In the campsite, I regaled Richard a Tolkienesque type of imagination in peak had no name, expeditions typically with my early discoveries, only for him anyone willing to explore. lasted a fortnight, and it was the early to describe Rocket Man in excruciating Recent fires and closures have prompted days of ‘motor-neering’, often supported detail, and on Monday I received a scan many of us to stray from the trade areas by herdsmen and their donkeys ferrying of an old slide as proof! I battled to place like the Wolfberg Cracks and Tafelberg, camp along the various shalebands. The Richard’s old picture of Space Walk and Apollo Peak is one new gem that has MCSA journals from those years make because it had been scanned back-to-front, captured my imagination in recent years. fascinating reading. After exhaustive and it was many visits before I unlocked Apollo stands at the far left end of the sleuthing, I can make a ‘good’ but not the whereabouts of Apollo Lift-off. Kromriver valley, with Luna Peak tucked entirely conclusive guess at the locations One characteristic of Apollo and its out of sight behind it. The Apollo East of the early (and particularly the Hallack) Turret is that they are inaccessible by foot, Turret appears as a striking ‘shark’s tooth’ original routes. requiring D or E grade rock climbing to feature from afar. Around 1973, Mike Scott, Paul Fatti get to the summits. This means that the The first climbing can be traced to and co. opened some of the best routes, proper use of a rope and gear is strongly 1928, by Colonel R. Hallack, followed and were followed by Richard Behne, advised for safety. Remember that by Frank Berrisford and Servie le Roux Neil Scott and others. However, the routes climbing down is harder than climbing up!

26 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021 Access Although inside the Cederberg Conservancy, Apollo Peak lies within the boundaries of the privately owned Kromrivierkloof Nature Reserve. All guests staying at Cederberg Park are guaranteed access to all the trails and climbing routes shown on this map, but anyone not staying at Cederberg Park will have to enquire and book in advance, as numbers are limited. Permits are available from Cederberg Park. If you would like to start early, it is advisable to obtain your permit the day before. For more information, please contact Cederberg Park. It is highly recommended to get one or more of the new maps detailing all the hiking aPollo trails and peaks on the Kromrivier Ridge, available at reception. These will tell you everything you need to know about the approach and getting around and along the ridge, and climbing any of the summits. If you’re going to be out for a long day, it is suggested that you leave a note in your car window to avoid reports of overdue hikers!

Front Face Rocket Man

Apollo East Turret Nek

Milky Way Airlock sector

Deep Space sector Climbing and Path Football exploring Field on Apollo and

Luna Peaks, Luna Cave Cederberg N Luna by ANT HALL

Garvin Jacobs and Tony Lourens on the first ascent of Moon Madness. Photo RICHARD BEHNE

The rock climbing on Apollo is stellar. The peak is hewn from the same rock layer that will remind you of the best pitches at Tafelberg or Krakadouw. The single pitch routes are 30 metres and sustained. Almost all the pitches are 5-star, and routes like Milky Way, Space Walk, Rocket Man and Apollo Orbit are among my favourite on the planet. Luna peak has fewer sustained rock climbing lines, but makes for incredible exploring among its tunnels and mushrooms, and is well worth the walk from Kromrivier in its own right. The area makes a good winter climbing venue, although you can chase the sunny or shady routes as appropriate. Water is scarce in summer. A very early start in summer will guarantee you shade most of Ant Hall on Milky Way (23). the way on the 2.5-hour approach hike. Photo ANT HALL COLLECTION

SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA 27 APOLLO FRONT (NORTH) FACE

Ant Hall getting into Orbit (20). Frontal Route (15/17) Photo BRENT RUSSELL R. Behne, J. Behne. 1996 P1. (15): Step up to a platform. Climb up a right-stepped crack to a big ledge. P2. (15): Start off a block, onto an undercut face, and climb to the base of a gendarme/pillar. P3. (17): Climb the pillar to a ledge. (A variation to the right allows the whole route to be climbed at grade 15.) P4. (15): Follow rails and jugs to the top.

Moon Madness (18) G. Jacobs, T. Lourens. 2020 Start immediately right of the Frontal’s undercut step, at the base of a prominent, short, square, right-facing corner. P1. 40m (18): Climb the juggy corner, then move out left to gain the front face. Climb straight up, tending slightly rightwards to reach a low roof. Pull through strenuously and move up to gain some grooves. Climb these and the final vertical face to reach a good ledge. P2. 25m (15): Move right and climb up to the base of an undercut juggy groove. Climb this delightful groove, to reach an overlap with a smooth face above. Swing across to the left and pull around on juggy flakes, then climb easily to the top.

Apollo Orbit (20) R. Behne, A. Hall, B. Russel. 2020 In the middle of the amphitheatre, scramble up to the upper ledge (C), then move to the far right. P1. 15m (20): From the far right of the ledge, gain a pedestal block, and then tackle a fierce overhanging crack with jugs. Stance in a small alcove. P2. 25m (19): Continue straight up, up an apparently off-width crack. A delicate last section leads to some ledges. P3. Move the stance 10-metres left. Start up a dark orange layback corner, at the roof traverse 8 metres right, to underneath a huge wandering off-width chimney in a corner. P4. 2m (19): Right is a ‘stairway of ears’. Climb this, then make fantastic, delicate climbing on just enough chicken heads, to the top.

Apollo Lift-off (19) M. Scott, P. Fatti. 1972 P1. (18): Straight up, and stance on the left. P2. (19): Up and right, past a ‘white fangs’ feature before heading up.

28 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 Apollo Peak Climbing Routes – Front (North) Face

Turret Apollo

Berrisford (D) & Hallack (E) Berrisford (E) Barnard (D)

Diving board feature Nek Rocket Man Moonboot Permission to Land

(C)

Moon Orbit Madness

Frontal Apollo Lift-off

Photo ROBERT BREYER Paul Fatti on the second and top pitches of Apollo Lift-off, 1973. Photo MIKE SCOTT Dave Webster on the stunning pillar pitch (17) on the Frontal Route. Photo TONY LOURENS

P3. (18): Continue up to a big ledge (possible to walk off). The last pitch starts in the deep corner. P4. (18): A short layback crack leads to a big roof. Exit left.

Moonboot (14) A. Hall, C. Philips. 2016 5 metres east of the diving board, abseil 30 metres down to a ledge. Walk 10 metres left and climb out.

Permission to Land (19R) A. Hall, C. Philips. 2016 As for Moonboot. Climb the arête, which is 3 metres left of the ‘diving board’. It originally aimed to tackle the off-width up the ‘diving board’, but this goal was abandoned. The top band of rock also features several off-width chimneys in the 20 to 21 range, several of which have been top-roped, but will be sketchy to lead, and don’t combine naturally into complete routes.

SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA 29 Apollo Front (North) Face Turret Original Rocket Man Berrisford (E) Turret Original Le Roux (D)

Lost in Space

Space Walk Nek

Milky Way Strong Arm Artemis Tactics

Apollo – Nek & Turret Photo ROBERT BREYER

APOLLO EAST SIDE Rocket Man Wall Original (Le Roux) route (D) S. le Roux. 1935 In the nek, climb a deep, curved chimney- crack, and step right at the top (15 metres).

Original (Hallack) route (E) R. Hallack. 1928 15 metres right of the chimney, facing north, is a scramble followed by a face of typical Cederberg chicken-heads.

Rocket Pig (25) R. Halsey, A. Hall A thin finger crack just left of the obvious Rocket Man.

Rocket Man (21) Rocket Man R. Behne Rocket Half Pig The obvious 30-metre jam crack up the Moon striking red wall.

Artemis APOLLO WEST SIDE Roy White on Strong Arm Tactics (18). Artemis (20) Approaching from the ‘football field’, a broad Photo ANT HALL R. Halsey ledge runs to the left (west). A few broken The next arête feature on the right side of the boulders lead to a terrace, on the far west APOLLO SOUTH SIDE buttress. With direct ‘Alien’ finish – 27? open edge of Apollo. project. Milky Way (23) Original (Barnard) route (D) A. Hall Strong Arm Tactics (18) K. Barnard. 1935 Climb the thin seam, and finish at the top R. White, R. de Dekker An easy but undercut start, followed by a together with Bar Fight. Climb the centre of the 15 metre-high ‘castle’. short face to finish (8 metres).

Bar Fight at the End of the Universe (20) Half Moon (16) Original (Berrisford) route (E) C. Kuhn R. Halsey F. Berrisford. 1935 Top-rope problem. Climb the stepped, The right edge of the arête of Strong Arm Start under a large smooth overhang, cross Yosemite-style off-width next to Milky Way. Tactics. Exit via the ‘wormhole’. rightwards on ‘good but fragile-looking’ holds

30 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021 MAPGUIDES Apollo Peak (West) Face A Hiker’s Companion

Kromrivier • Cederberg Photo Illustrated Map Guides Kromrivierrug • Apollo Peak Barnard (D) Luna Peak • Donkerkloofkop Murraysberg • Corkscrew Peak Lift-off (Top Pitch) • Winterbach Peak

Berrisford (E)

Turret

Lost in Space MAPguide • Corkscrew Peak • • A Hiker’s Companion• MurraysbergDonkerkloofkop Apollo Peak Disa Pool Luna Peak MAPA Hiker’s Companionguide MAPguide To say that the Cederberg is unique is quite simply an understatement. It A Hiker’s Companion is a collection of mountains, valleys, canyons, rocky summits, rivers and Winterbach Peak Donkerkloofkop & Apollo wild and remote plateaux of unspeakable beauty – the home of the most To say that the Cederberg is unique is quite simply an understatement. It spectacular, bizarre and twisted rock formations one could imagine – a Circuit is a collection of mountains, valleys, canyons, rocky summits, rivers and place that keeps unfolding the more you explore and keeps on giving, the wild and Kromrivierremote plateaux of unspeakable beauty• Cederberg – the home of the most more adventurous you become. spectacular, bizarre and twisted rock formations one could imagine – a Winterbach Peak Western Cape South Africa The Cederberg is also much more than just a mountain range. It is a To say that the Cederberg is unique is quite simply an understatement. It Kromrivierrug place that keeps unfolding the more you explore• and keeps on giving, the place steepedKromrivier in history where people have lived, worked and farmed more adventurous you become. is a collection of mountains, valleys, canyons, rocky summits, rivers and The Parthenon rock formation near Murraysberg Donkerkloofkop• Apollo Peak • Disa Pool for many generations. It is the home• ofCederberg Rooibos tea, wine farms, yielding wild and remote plateaux of unspeakable beauty – the home of the most • Cederberg The Cederberg is also much more than just a mountain range. It is a Western Cape Kromrivier place steeped in historyHistory where •people Geology have lived,• Flora worked • Fauna and farmed wines of exceptional quality, where the most remarkable craft beeris spectacular, bizarre and twisted rock formations one could imagine – a Kromrivier Wines • South Africa brewed, and wonderful hideaways where• South you can loseAfrica yourself and find place that keeps unfolding the more you explore and keeps on giving, the Kromrivier Farm prides itself with a unique range of boutique wines. Enjoy for many generations. It is the home of Rooibos tea, wine farms, yielding Winterbach Peak Circuit Western Cape • Corkscrew Peak wines of exceptional quality, where the most remarkable craft beeris yourself in a wonderland of majestic beauty and peace that can only be more adventurous you become. a glass of our delicate Shiraz next to the fire on a cold winter night or try • Murraysberg Fauna History Luna Peak • Flora • brewed, and wonderful hideaways where you can lose yourself and find found in this remote mountain• Geology range at the tip of Africa. It is also the The Cederberg is also much more than just a mountain range. It is a our crisp Chardonnay for a refreshing experience. • Geology • Flora • Fauna place steeped in history where people have lived, worked and farmed History yourself in a wonderland of majestic beauty and peace that can only be place where the Cape mountain leopard roam wild and free. Sunset over a distant ocean, from Bakleikraal found in this remote mountain range at the tip of Africa. It is also the for many generations. It is the home of Rooibos tea, wine farms, yielding For the hiker and climber the possibilities are literally endless,wines for of exceptional quality, where the most remarkable craft beeris place where the Cape mountain leopard roam wild and free. the Cederberg mountains offer short easy walks of only a few hours to For the hiker and climber the possibilities are literally endless, for brewed, andOn wonderfulthe summit hideaways of Apollo where you can lose yourself and find medium hikes taking anything from half to a full day, to demanding multi- the Cederberg mountains offer short easy walks of only a few hours to yourself in a wonderland of majestic beauty and peace that can only be Leaving Bakleikraal, on the way to Donkerkloofkop medium hikes taking anything from half to a full day, to demanding multi- day trails which can take you across the entire length of this spectacularfound in thisGeology remote mountain range at the tip of Africa. It is also the day trails which can take you across the entire length of this spectacular range. place whereThe the Cederberg Cape mountain mountain leopard range roam was wild formed and free. around 400 million years ago range. A number of the best hikes are to be found in the Kromrivier ValleyFor the hikerand andis part climber of the possibilitiesCape fold mountain are literally series, endless, with for the rock comprising A number of the best hikes are to be found in the Kromrivier Valley and along the rugged Kromrivierrug. Some of the trails have been aroundthe Cederbergof Table mountains Mountain offer shortSandstone easy walks which of onlyis on a fewthe wholehours to of the very highest Sculptured rock formations on the plateau ’twixt Luna and Apollo and along the rugged Kromrivierrug. Some of the trails have been around for many moons, but some are new and beg exploration. Exploring themedium hikesquality. taking anything from half to a full day, to demanding multi- Galactic formations stand guard near the summit of Luna Peak day trails which can take you across the entire length of this spectacular for many moons, but some are new and beg exploration. Exploring the multiple peaks along the ridge is simply magical, and a must do for any The Cederberg is famous for its weird and wonderful rock formations, Kromrivier Wines range. multiple peaks along the ridge is simply magical, and a must do for any adventurous hiker. And for the more subdued, or for a more relaxing day, the most famous of which are the Maltese Cross and the WolfbergNieuwBrew Arch Craft Beer Kromrivier Farm prides itself with a unique range of boutique wines. Enjoy A number of the best hikes are to be found in the Kromrivier Valley Kromrivier is home to the first microbrewery in the Cederberg – adventurous hiker. And for the more subdued, or for a more relaxing day, the Disa Pool hike is ideal on a summers day, where one can cool off in in the southern part of the range. However, no matter where you walk a glass of our delicate Shiraz next to the fire on a cold winter night or try the Disa Pool hike is ideal on a summers day, where one can cool off in and along the rugged Kromrivierrug. Some of the trails have been around Nieuwbrew. Established in 2013 by two of the Nieuwoudt sisters, our crisp Chardonnay for a refreshing experience. the deep, cool and irresistible waters of Disa Pool and also along the way the deep, cool and irresistible waters of Disa Pool and also along the forway many moons,or climb but some in the are Cederbergnew and beg you exploration. will see fantasticExploring the sculptured formations,Melanie and Tania, NieuwBrew makes use of the finest ingredients in smaller pools. All these stunning hikes and attractions can be accessed in smaller pools. All these stunning hikes and attractions can be accessedmultipleFlora peakswhich along will the conjureridge is simplyup all sortsmagical, of and shapes a must and do forimages any in your mind,and fromexcellent quality Cederberg mountain water – ‘soetwater’ – as the Die Slee Eatery from Kromrivier Cederberg Park. from Kromrivier Cederberg Park. adventurousThe Cederberg hiker.hovering isAnd named amphibiousfor the after more the subdued,landing Clanwilliam craft or forcedar shapesa more tree, relaxingto and jellyfish years day, ago music composersNamaqualanders to call it. Die Slee (Afrikaans for The Sleigh) got its name from the cedarwood Just remember, once in the Cederberg, you will get Wi Fi at various SurrealJust passages remember, amongst once in rock the towers Cederberg, near the you summit will get of WiLuna Fi Peak at variousthe Disaone Poolcould hikedancing find is theseideal field ontrees a summers mice.in abundance The day, mélange wheregrowing is one inendless, canmany cool partsjust off ingoof theout and have Thea look. range consists of six very different brews, from a refreshing ale to sleigh runner on display at the eatery. What looks like an ordinary Cederberg, but these days they are much more scarce, although they can establishments, but there is basically no cell phone reception anywhere, Faunaestablishments, but there is basically no cell phone reception anywhere,the deep, coolThe and summitirresistible areas waters of Winterbachof Disa Pool and Peak, also Apolloalong the Peak way and Luna Peaka slightly are richer English ale, a Weiss beer, a wonderful pumpkin ale, a wooden beam is in fact a piece of 19th century Cederberg engineering – in smallerstill pools.be seen All growing these stunning near cliffs hikes or and on rockyattractions outcrops can at altitudesbe accessed above wooden sleighs were long used in the Cederberg as a means of transport, except in and around Algeria Forest Station. But you won’t miss it! Theexcept Cederberg, in and inaround general, Algeria is not Forest well endowed Station. with But visible you wildlife,won’t miss it! a veritable feast of the most outlandish, peculiar and remarkabledark rock stout and a cherry blonde brew. And as good as the beer itself, are from Kromrivier1000 metres. Cederberg Park. particularly along tracks that were impassable by ox-wagons. so don’t expect to see wildebeest sweeping majestically across the formations of all shapes and sizes. the names of each beer and the design of the labels. There is not much Just remember,Legend has once it that in the in Cederberg,days gone by, you cedar will gettrees Wi were Fi at chopped various down and Approaching the unmistakable rounded summit of DonkerkloofkopServing for many yearsA as rock a doorsill rat on in thesentry old Kromrivier duty along shed, the the way to Apollo Peak How to get there landscape, but do expect to see troops of baboons lounging around the better than feeling the ice cold bite of your chosen brew slipping down How to get there establishments,used for buttelephone there is poles basically along no the cell road phone from reception Clanwilliam anywhere, to Citrusdal, sleigh runner now has its glory returned, being a display piece and the The Cederberg is a three to four hour drive from Cape Town, depending mountains and at times coming down to the campsites to see if they can your parched throat after a good day in the hills, accompanied by one of Project The Cederberg is a three to four hour drive from Cape Town, dependingexcept inbut and this aroundFauna has been Algeria disputed Forest by Station. some. TheBut woodyou won’t of the miss trees it! was also used Flora NieuwBrew Craft Beer name of the eatery. how you do it. From Cape Town, take the Cape–Namibia (N7) road north ravage a cooler box or two. the tasty treats on the menu. how you do it. From Cape Town, take the Cape–Namibia (N7) road north to fashionThe furniture, Cederberg, some in pieces general, of which is not can still well be endowed found here with and visible wildlife, The Cederberg is named after the Clanwilliam cedar tree, andFrom years modest ago beginnings,Kromrivier serving milkshakes is home and to toasted the first sandwiches microbrewery in the Cederberg – towards Citrusdal. Drive a further 28 km toward Clanwilliam to the There are a few species of buck, predators, reptiles and birds lurking With Melanie’s background of Food Science, specialising in brewing, towards Citrusdal. Drive a further 28 km toward Clanwilliam How to the to there.get there soFortunately don’t expect today the to cedar see tree wildebeest is now protected sweeping and majesticallyit is illegal to across the one could find these trees in abundance growing in manyto parts passing of motorcyclists,the Nieuwbrew. Die Slee is now Established a fully-fledged in 2013eatery, byequipped two of the Nieuwoudt sisters, Algeria turn-off and take a right here. Follow the gravel road past Algeria about, but you are only likely to see a handful of these, as most of them and Tania’s expertise in logistics management, NieuwBrew will ensure The Cederbergchop is them a three down, to four or use hour any drive part from of the Cape tree Town, for any depending purpose. with a fine kitchen and generous seating indoors and outdoors, with Riding Chariot Rock at the head of Eerstekloof Forest Station (18 km) and up and over the Uitkyk Pass to the upper Algeriaare either turn-off nocturnal and ortake very a shyright creatures. here. Follow The leopard the gravel is Cederberg’s road past Algeria landscape, but do expect to see troops of baboons lounging aroundyou the of the finestCederberg, quality craft but thesebeer. days they are much more scarce, although they can Melanie and Tania, NieuwBrew makes use of the finest ingredients how you do it.Mountain From Cape fynbos Town, covers take muchthe Cape–Namibia of the slopes (N7)of the road Cederberg, north where exceptional views of the surrounding mountains. The kitchen uses only plateau towards Dwarsrivier. Soon you will pass the turn off to Driehoek Forestlargest Station predator (18 and is fairlykm) common,and up but and a sightingover the is veryUitkyk unlikely. Pass to the upper mountains and at times coming down to the campsites toNear see ifthe they top can of Tierkloof,still below be seen towering growing red pillarsnear cliffs and walls or on rocky outcrops at altitudes above and excellent quality Cederberg mountain water – ‘soetwater’ – as the towards Citrusdal.one can Drive find a furtherprotea, conebush, 28 km toward wild Clanwilliam olive and restio to the veld among other the freshest ingredients, providing their guests and hungry hikers and Kromrivier Wines (13 km from Algeria). Continue for another 15 km to reach Dwarsrivier plateauAmongst towards the other Dwarsrivier. predators Soonyou will you also will find pass wild the cat, turn lynx, off aardwolf to Driehoek ravage a cooler box or two. 1000 metres. Namaqualanders call it. Algeria turn-offspecies. and Thetake endemica right here. snow Follow protea the can gravel also beroad found past on Algeria the higher peaksGeology climbers excellent farm style cuisine, light meals and a selection of mouth- Kromrivier Farm prides itself with a unique range of boutique wines. Enjoy farm. Pass through and continue for just over 1 km to pass the Sanddrif (13and km fox. from Algeria). Continue for another 15 km to reach Dwarsrivier There are a few species of buck, predators, reptiles and birds lurking Legend has it that in days gone by, cedar trees were chopped down and The range consists of six very different brews, from a refreshing ale to Forest Station(particularly (18 km) andon Sneeuberg) up and over during the the Uitkyk months Pass of Februaryto the upper and March.The Cederberg mountain range was formed around 400 million years ago watering cakes, accompanied with delicious coffee. And of course, all and a glass of our delicate Shiraz next to the fire on a cold winter night or try Campsite turnoff. Carry on for a further 2 km to reach the turn off to Unless you are very lucky, the best you will probably get is a sighting of about, but you are only likely to see a handful of these, as most of them used for telephone poles along the road from Clanwilliam to Citrusdal, farm. Pass through and continue for just over 1 km to pass the plateauSanddrif towards And Dwarsrivier. on Winterbach Soon Peak you will you pass will seethe theturn beautiful off to Driehoek queen proteas and in is part of the Cape fold mountain series, with the rock comprising any meal can be accompanieda slightly by richer their famousEnglish beer ale, or a wine.Weiss beer, a wonderful pumpkin ale, a our crisp Chardonnay for a refreshing experience. Dark Side of Space Walk Kromrivier Cederberg Park. Take the right fork and drive about 4.75 km rock agama lizards doing press-ups in the sun and the beautiful Verreaux Fauna Die Slee Eatery Campsite turnoff. Carry on for a further 2 km to reach the turn(13 kmoff from to Algeria).abundanceare Continue either during nocturnal for November another or and15 very km December to shy reach creatures. Dwarsrivier The leopardof isTable Cederberg’s Mountain Sandstonebut which this has is on been the whole disputed of the by very some. highest The wood of Thethe Cederberg,trees was inalso general, used is not welldark endowed stout withand visiblea cherry wildlife, blonde brew. And as good as the beer itself, are along, then down the Kromrivier Pass to reach the reception buildingA andPhoto illustratedblack eagles soaring Hiking effortlessly and in the cobalt blue skies, almost always Die Slee (Afrikaans for The Sleigh) got its name from the cedarwood Kromrivier Cederberg Park. Take the right fork and drive about farm.4.75 Passkm throughOflargest andcourse continue in predator the monthsfor just and ofover isAugust fairly1 km andto common, pass September, the Sanddrif but you a sightingwill also quality.find is very unlikely. to fashion furniture, some pieces of which can sostill don’t be expect found toDie here see Plaaswerf wildebeestand sweepingthe names majestically of each beeracross and the the design of the labels. There is not much A Photorestaurant. illustrated Hiking and in pairs, catching thermals and never flapping their wings, making them Scrambling through boulders near the summitsleigh runner on display at the eatery. What looks like an ordinary Informationalong, then Guide down to the the Kromrivier Cederberg Pass to reach the reception buildingCampsite and turnoff. the Amongst Carryfamous on forNamaqualand the a further other 2predators flowerskm to reach in youbloom, the willturn which alsooff covertofind manywild cat,of theThe lynx, low Cederberg aardwolf is famous forthere. its weird Fortunately and wonderful today therock cedar formations, tree is now protectedlandscape, and but it doisSituated illegal expect to onto see Kromrivier troopsbetter of is baboons the than picturesque feeling lounging Kromrivierthe around ice coldthe Plaaswerf bite of whichyour chosen brew slipping down the true masters of the sky. wooden beam is in fact a piece of 19th century Cederberg engineering – InformationPlaces toGuide stay to the CederbergThis is the best and most obvious place restaurant. Kromrivier Cederberglyingand fieldsPark. fox. Takein and the around right fork the andCederberg. drive about 4.75 km the most famous of which arechop the them Maltese down, Cross or and use the any Wolfberg part of theArch tree for mountainsany purpose. and atfeatures times coming the original downyour farmhouseto theparched campsites (Voorhuis) throat to seeafter built if they ina 1868good can withday ain newly NieuwBrewthe hills, accompanied Craft Beer by one of the Moon A Photo illustrated Hiking and And before you ask, yes, there are snakes – all sorts – harmless ones wooden sleighs were long used in the Cederberg as a means of transport, Kromrivier Cederberg Park: along, then down theUnless Kromrivier you Pass are tovery reach lucky, the thereception best you building will probablyand getin the is a southern sighting part of of the range.Mountain However, fynbos no matter covers where much you of walkthe slopes ofravage the Cederberg,a cooler boxrestored orwhere two. thatch roof.the Alongside tasty treats is the on Waenhuis the menu. which has also Kromrivier been is home to the first microbrewery in the Cederberg – Information Guide to the Cederberg and venomous ones, but the chances of an encounter are rare, but not Together, these facilities provide you with everything you need particularly along tracks that were impassable by ox-wagons. to stay if you want to explore the hiking and climbing featured in this Places to stay restaurant. Climaterock agama lizards doing press-ups in the sun and the beautifulor climb in Verreauxthe Cederberg youone will can see fantasticfind protea, sculptured conebush, formations, wild olive and restioThere are veld a few among speciesrenovated. other of buck, predators,With reptiles Melanie’s and background birds lurking of Food Science,Nieuwbrew. specialising Established in in brewing, 2013 by two of the Nieuwoudt sisters, impossible, so always be alert. Serving for many years as a doorsill in the old Kromrivier shed, the b r o c h u r e . T h e r e is e x c e le n t c a m p in g – e a c h s p a c io u s c a m p s it e h a s Kromrivier Cederberg Park: This is the best and most obvious place Theblack Cederberg eagles hassoaring a semi-desert effortlessly climate in the making cobalt it extremely blue skies, hotwhich almost in will conjurealways inup all sortsspecies. of shapes The and endemic images in snow your proteamind, from can also be foundabout, on but the you higher are onlyto peaksenjoy likely your to see wedding, aand handful Tania’steam of building these, expertise as event, most conferenceofin them logistics or celebration. Melaniemanagement, and Tania, NieuwBrew NieuwBrew makeswill ensure use of the finest ingredients Places to stay hovering amphibious landing craft shapes to jellyfish music composers to are either nocturnal or very shy creatures. The leopard is Cederberg’s and excellent quality Cederberg mountain watersleigh – ‘soetwater’ runner now – as thehas its glory returned, being a display piece and the Wi Fi, its own private mini ablution block and dish washing facility. There isto stay if you want to explore the hiking and climbing featured in this summerpairs, catching and rather thermals chilly in winter.and never And flappingalthough ittheir gets mostwings, of itsmaking rain them the (particularly on Sneeuberg) during the months of February and March. you of the finest quality craft beer. Kromrivier Cederberg Park: dancing field mice. The mélange is endless, just go out and have a look. largest predator and is fairly common, but a sighting is unlikely. Amongst Namaqualanders call it. also a range of 10 glamping, fully furnished walk-in tents, and a selection brochure. There is excellent camping – each spacious campsite has andtrue snowfall masters in ofwinter the itsky. can also rain at times during summer. Having And on Winterbach Peak you will see the beautiful queen proteas in name of the eatery. of newly built luxury chalets. They have a fantastic eatery, serving mouth- to stay if you want tosaid explore that, the theThis hiking best is the time and best climbingto and explore most featured the obvious Cederberg in place this is during theThe summer summit areas of Winterbach Peak, Apollo Peak and Luna Peak are the other predators you will also find wild cat, lynx, aardwolf and fox. The range consists of six very different brews, from a refreshing ale to Wi Fi, its own private mini ablution block and dish washing facility. There is And before you ask, yes, there are snakes – all sorts – harmless ones abundance during November and December From modest beginnings, serving milkshakes and toasted sandwiches Winterbach summit – 30 wateringmin return mealsjourney and snacksDescent and a selectionfrom the junction of cold – 2drinks, hr 20 minfine wines, and b ro c h u re T. h e re sie x c e el n tc a m p ni g – e a c h s p a c oi u sc amonths, m p s tie h a s bearing in mind that temperatures can climb deep intoa veritable the 30s feast of the most outlandish, peculiar and remarkable rock Unless you are very lucky, the best you will probably get is a sighting of a slightly richer English ale, a Weiss beer, a wonderfulto passing pumpkin motorcyclists, ale, a Die Slee is now a fully-fledged eatery, equipped Snake your way along the path, up, over boulders and through passages, From the aforementioned junction where you left your packs, follow the also a range of 10 glamping, fully furnished walk-in tents, andWi a selectionFi, its own private andmini venomousablution block ones, and butdish thewashing chances facility. of anThere encounter is are rare, but not Of course in the months of August and September, you will also find Winterbach Peak Circuit past stunning rock formations, andan beautiful excellent queen range proteas (whenof ice-cold in path headingcraft for beer,Eerstekloof. brewed This takes right you down, there weaving on past the many farm. in the middle of the day. The days are long and shade can almostformations always of all shapes and sizes. rock agama lizards doing press-ups in the sun and the beautiful Verreaux dark stout and a cherry blonde brew. And as good as the beer itself, are bloom – December), to reach a step up onto a rock shelf. Traverse this rock formations and passing through some passages (keep an eye out Shadow dancing in the moon craters on Luna Peak with a fine kitchen and generous seating indoors and outdoors, with And a farm stall which sells basic food stuffs, drinks, Cederberg artefacts of newly built luxury chalets. They have a fantastic eatery, servingalso a rangemouth- of 10 glamping,impossible,be found fully amongst furnished so always the walk-in beautiful be alert. tents, and and enchanting a selection rock formations for your the famous Namaqualand flowers in bloom, blackwhich eaglescover soaringmany ofeffortlessly the low in the cobalt blue skies, almost always in the names of each beer and the design of the labels. There is not much shelf across to the left, around the corner, then up into a small scooped for cairns), until the path flattens out on a sort of a vlakte. Here, just past exceptional views of the surrounding mountains. The kitchen uses only Winterbach Peak – 1536 m amphitheatre and up this to the rockand sculptured gifty summit things. of Winterbach Remember, “Chariot hiking Rock”, you and will come climbing to a junction in (15the min). Kromrivier Valleywatering is meals and snacks and a selection of cold drinks, fineof newly wines, built and luxury chalets.tea or Theylunch have break. a fantastic It is best toeatery, start servingvery early mouth- on your hikes, to take lying fields in and around the Cederberg. pairs, catching thermals and never flapping their wings, making them the better than feeling the ice cold bite of your chosen brew slipping down A spectacularly beautiful hike taking you into the seldom explored Peak. After a bit of exploration, return the way you came. Take the right fork and continue along the path, continually being the freshest ingredients, providingDie Slee their Eatery guests and hungry hikers and free to guests staying there.bombarded To book from all sidescall by +27 awesome 27 rock482 formations, 2807 orheading bookings@ straight watering meals and snacks and a selection of cold drinks, fine wines, and true masters of the sky. your parched throat after a good day in the hills, accompanied by one of area above the Kromrivier Valley. A place adorned with majestic an excellent range of ice-cold craft beer, brewed right there on the farm. advantage of the morning shade and cooler temperatures. Die Slee (Afrikaans for The Sleigh) got its name from the cedarwood rock walls and twisted rock formations. And a summit standing cederbergpark.com. In casetowards the the sharpKromrivier outline of Sneeuberg accommodation far ahead. Carry on foris afull, while, here an excellent range of ice-coldDuring craft winter beer, however brewed snowfallright there is alsoon the possible farm. over the higher reaches, And before you ask, yes, there are snakes – all sorts – harmless ones the tasty treats on the menu. climbers excellent farm style cuisine, light meals and a selection of mouth- proud above the surrounding ridge line. With many opportunities till the path starts to descend towards Eerstekloof down long zig zags and And a farm stall which sells basic food stuffs, drinks, Cederberg artefacts sleigh runner on display at the eatery. What looks like an ordinary to venture off path and explore the fascinating lunar landscape and are some other popular alternatives.passing to the left of some tall impressive rock walls. The path eventually And a farm stall which sellswhich basic can food also stuffs, lend adrinks, special Cederberg twist to your artefacts hike. Always take protection and venomous ones, but the chances of an encounter are rare, but not With Melanie’s background of Food Science, specialisingwatering incakes, brewing, accompanied with delicious coffee. And of course, all and rocky corridors. Situated on Dwarsrivierveers to the right andFarm, acrosses Sanddrif some bouldery campsite screes which is and a good chalets spot and gifty things. Remember, hiking and climbing in the Kromrivier Valley is wooden beam is in fact a piece of 19th century Cederberg engineering – During the summer months I highly recommend you start walking by Sanddrif: to pause for a cuppa the good stuff (45 min). and gifty things. Remember, hiking and climbing in the Kromrivier Valley is impossible, so always be alert. and Tania’s expertise in logistics management,any mealNieuwBrew can be will accompanied ensure by their famous beer or wine. free to guests staying there. To book call +27 27 482 2807 or bookings@ against the heat and the cold, no matter what the weather looks like at wooden sleighs were long used in the Cederberg as a means of transport, 5.30 am. This way you should get a mostly shady walk, which during are only about 8 km fromContinue the Kromrivier down, crossing the Valley. kloof a few Theytimes, beforehave contouring good outcamping of free to guests staying there.the To outset book callof your +27 hike.27 482 2807 or bookings@ you of the finest quality craft beer. those hot Cederberg days would be most welcome, if not essential. the kloof to the right, along the slopes to reach a shoulder (15 min). Veer cederbergpark.com. In case the Kromrivier accommodation is full, here particularly along tracks that were impassable by ox-wagons. Elevation gain: 616m (920m to 1536m) facilities with ablutionsback leftand towards very the comfortable kloof and continue zignewly zagging renovated down, always on thechalets. cederbergpark.com. In case the Kromrivier accommodation is full, here Flora right side of the kloof, passing through some thicker vegetation, until you Die Plaaswerf Serving for many years as a doorsill in the old Kromrivier shed, the Where to park There is also a farm stallreach that the junction sells basicwith the contourfood pathstuffs, (15 min). wood, cold drinks areand some other popular alternatives. are some other popular alternatives. The Cederberg is named after the Clanwilliam cedar tree, and years ago one Take a right here towards the “Winterbach Parking”, and follow this path, Situated on Kromrivier is thesleigh picturesque runner now Kromrivier has its glory Plaaswerfreturned, being which a display piece and the From the Kromrivier reception and eatery, drive down and cross of course a range of excellent wine and beer. To book call +27 27 482 2825Sanddrif: Situated on Dwarsrivier Farm, Sanddrif campsiteSanddrif: and chalets could find them in abundance growing in many parts of the Cederberg, but over the bridge to the other side of the river. Turn right and follow which does tend to go on a bit! Situated on DwarsrivierSunset Farm, glow Sanddrif on the campsite formations and chaletsaround Murraysberg features the original farmhousename of (Voorhuis) the eatery. built in 1868 with a newly the road, past a few chalets, heading towards the middle of the or [email protected] Situated you will pass about through 15 a km south east of Kromrivier,are only about 8 km from the Kromrivier Valley. They have aregood only camping about 8 km from the Kromrivier Valley. They have good camping today they are much more scarce, although they can still be seen growing Kromrivier Valley. Follow the dirt track for a little while, till you reach gate afterwhich the path turns Near the bottom of Eerstekloof, looking up at the bastions enroute Entering into the top of Eerstekloof from the path junction restored thatch roof. AlongsideFrom is modest the Waenhuis beginnings, which serving has milkshakes also been and toasted sandwiches a small sign saying “Winterbach Parking” to the left. Turn up here and Nuwerus Rest Camp:into a dirt track. Continue along, facilitiesConservation with ablutions and very comfortableWhat to takenewly on hikesrenovatedfacilities chalets.with ablutions and very comfortable newly renovated chalets. near cliffs or on rocky outcrops at altitudes above 1000 metres. continue for a short way to park in a small clearing. passing over a few shoulders The Cederberg is truly one of the most beautiful and spiritual places The Cederberg is a serious mountain range and although hiking to renovated. Together, these facilitiesto passing providemotorcyclists, you with Die Sleeeverything is now ayou fully-fledged need eatery, equipped Nuwerust is also a goodand gentle option hills, before for headingcamping, etc. They have a big spread- The incomparable and unique rocks and walls ofThere the isCederberg. also a farm The stall that sells basic food stuffs, wood, cold drinks and Legend has it that in days gone by, cedar trees were chopped down and Thereon our planet is andalso we area farmextremely stall privileged that to have sells such basica unique foodthe stuffs, peaks along thewood, Kromrivierrug cold is notdrinks too hectic, and it is still a long with a fine kitchen and generous seating indoors and outdoors, with out campsite, with nicedown trees a short stony and path, ablutions, then and also some rustic mountain range so closesummit to Cape Town. massif of Luna Peak toweringday out and aboveit is prudent the toof take coursehidden the necessary a Luna range precautions Cave of excellentand to wine and beer. To book call +27 27 482 2825 used for telephone poles along the road from Clanwilliam to Citrusdal, to enjoy your wedding, team building event, conference or celebration. soon after you will arrive at the ofWhen course I first started a range going to the of Cederberg excellent in the mid wine 1970s it andwas still beer. always To book set out properly call +27 attired 27 and 482 with 2825 the correct equipment. exceptional views of the surrounding mountains. The kitchen uses only chalets. There is a smallDisa Poolshop parking for sign, cold which drinks and other basics and alsoa relatively unknown range with not many people visiting the area. Over Many people underestimateor the [email protected]. mountains and some have paid the but this has been disputed by some. The wood of the trees was also used points to a path heading down or [email protected]. the years however, the Cederberg has become extremely popular and has price for this. Here are someNuwerus pointers of what Rest to take Camp:and what to do. the freshest ingredients, providing their guests and hungry hikers and a lapa with a huge group-braaito the left (20 area,min). Continue and a pub with DSTV if you are hadinto to endure the impact of tens of thousands of people who make the • A good pair of walking shoes with a grippy sole to fashion furniture, some pieces of which can still be found here and straight here, and after a while Nuweruspilgrimage from Cape Rest Town (andCamp: further afield) Situated to enjoy this aboutvery special 15 • km A hat and south sun cream east of Kromrivier, Situated about 15 km south east of Kromrivier, right of the path, just before youclimbers enter excellent Tweedekloof. farm stylePass cuisine,through light Tweedekloof meals and a selection of mouth- watching sporting youevents, will reach etc. an offsetThe fence.book call +27 27 482 Kromrivier2813 or info@ farm is the oldest and one of the most Nuwerust is also a good option for camping, etc. They have a big spread- there. Fortunately today the cedar tree is now protected and it is illegal Nuwerustplace. Please respect is ouralso mountains a good and keepoption them environmentally for camping, • A lightetc. fleece They and waterproof have topa big spread- Disa Pool – 4 hr round trip and carry on for a little whilewatering till you cakes,arrive accompaniedat the Apollo withand Lunadelicious Peak coffee.sign just And of course, all and cederbergexperience.co.zaPass through and continue with protected. The beautiful peaks, rivers and pools of the Kromrivier Valley • A minimum of 2 litres ofout liquid campsite,per person, particularly with niceon a hot treesday and ablutions, and also some rustic to chop them down, or use any part of the tree for any purpose. to a stance, and then finish up an easy face. the jeep track until you meet up popular tourist destinations in the Cederberg. This campsite is also on Dwarsrivier farm, about 6 km fromoutand the surrounding campsite, areas are with not particularly nice deep trees in the and mountains, ablutions, • Some snacks, energyand bars alsoand lunch some rustic before Derdekloof (1 hr). any meal can be accompanied by their famous beer or wine. Space Walk (22) Kliphuis: with the road that leads to your making them relatively high impact areas. Do not pick flowers, collect • A flask of hot water to chalets.make tea or coffeeThere (if desired)is a small shop for cold drinks and other basics and also Mountain fynbos covers much of the slopes of the Cederberg, where Kromrivier farm is the oldest and one of the most Bordering Truitjieskraal and other popular climbing How to get there • Park car. Turn right to reach your car Teatime at Bakleikraal chalets.rocks or disturb There any of natures is creations.a small Please shop take all yourfor garbage cold out drinks• A head and torch othera lapabasics with and a huge also group-braai area, and a pub with DSTV if you are into Riding boulders on the summit plateau Continue straight along the contour path for another 40 minutes to reach Traversingpopular along a flat tourist rock shelf neardestinations the top of Tierkloof in the Cederberg. reception office. (30It min). only has camping, but on very niceareas, sites thisunder resort huge offers an ideal base for climbers one can find protea, conebush, wild olive andPark restio at theveld Disa among Pool other parking – as for the Luna Peak Trail Midway down Eerstekloof with you, including banana skins and such like that lie around for a long • A camera (phone) to take pictures Pienksewejaartjie (Syncarpa canescens) Sugarbush (Protea repens) Die Plaaswerf time before they eventually decompose. • Remember to go at thewatching pace of the slowest sporting member of events,your party etc. The book call +27 27 482 2813 or info@ Bordering Truitjieskraal and other popular climbing Kromrivier farmtrees iswith the ablutions. oldest andUse theone same of theshop most and booking detailsand hikers,as Sanddrif.a lapa while with others a huge can group-braai be kept busy area, and and a pub with DSTV if you are into species. The endemic snow protea can also be found on the higher peaks the path coming up along the Disa Pool kloof. Take a right here to arrive at Disa This is situated about 23 km from Kromrivier. Also has goodToilet habits are also of the utmost importance. If you really have to and keep together at all times Climate Situated on Kromrivier is the picturesque Kromrivier Plaaswerf which popular touristDriehoek: destinationsWinterbach in the Peak Cederberg. descent watchinggo, please take the sporting time and trouble events, to get well awayetc. from The paths bookand call +27 27 482cederbergexperience.co.za 2813 or info@ Climate (particularly on Sneeuberg) during the monthsFrom of February the carpark, and takeMarch. the Apollo and Luna Peak path, and walk up through Pool in a few minutes. areas, this resort offers an ideal base for climbers entertained with a variety of other activities. Emergencies features the original farmhouse (Voorhuis) built in 1868 with a newly camping with ablutions and a selection of different chalets, withwater a sources,shop do NOT dig a hole, but simply deposit your creation on Kliphuis: The Cederberg has a semi-desert climate makingThe Cederberg it extremely has a semi-deserthot in climate making it extremely hot in And on Winterbach Peak you will see the beautifulDie Trap queen to reach proteas the in contour path (15 min). Turn right and follow the path all and hikers, while others can be kept busy and Bordering Truitjieskraal and other popular climbing cederbergexperience.co.zaan exposed rock and take your toilet paper out with you in a Ziploc bag. In the event of an emergency, when someoneThis campsite has fallen and is hurt also on Dwarsrivier farm, about 6 km from the On your return, follow therestored path along thatch the roof. river. Alongside That way is theyou Waenhuis can swim which and has also been entertained with a variety of other activities. that sells basics, wood and wine, etc. To book call +27 27 482 2828Within or a few days your deposit will have turned to dust by the harsh themself in anyway, proceedreception as follows: office. It only hassummer camping, and but ratheron very chillynice sites in winter. under Andhuge althoughsummer it gets and most rather of chillyits rain in winter. And although it gets most of its rain abundance during November and December the way along, through a gate, and past the Winterbach Peak path junction, areas, this resort offers an ideal base for climbers Path Kliphuis:Cederberg environment, This and campsite blown away in theis wind.also on Dwarsrivier• Get farm,to the victim about immediately 6 kmand assess from the seriousness the of the cool off in the pools alongrenovated. the way, as it is bound to be hotter than earlier in Note: 5 metres left of the Barnard route is a This is a Cape Nature campsite and is probably injury and situation.trees with ablutions. Use the same shop and booking details as Sanddrif. and snowfall in winter it can also rain at times during summer. Having Together, these facilities provide you with everything you need [email protected] PleaseFacilities make that extra & effort,Activities so that future generations can also and snowfall in winter it can also rain at times during summer. Having Of course in the months of August and September, you will also find R. Behne and hikers, while others can beWinterbach kept Peak Massifbusy and • If it is a mildly twisted ankle or something similar and the victim can which comes down Eerstekloof. Carry on with the path, along the slopes of receptionexperience the wildness office. that makes Itthe Cederberg only sohas special. camping, but on very nice sites under huge the day. to enjoy your wedding, team building event, conference or celebration. Facilities & Activities Algeria Forest Station: Accommodation & camping still walk without tooDriehoek: much pain, then descend slowly. said that, the best time to explore the Cederbergsaid that, is during the best the time summer to explore the Cederberg is during the summer the famous Namaqualand flowers in bloom, which cover many of the low • Wedding & events venue entertained with a variety of other activities. This is situated about 23 km from Kromrivier. Also has good Murraysberg standing high up on your left, to reach an old Leopard Trap on the Eatery treesAccess withand Permits ablutions.• Wedding Use & the events same venue shop and• If howeverbooking the victim campingdetails cannot walk aswith then Sanddrif. a rescueablutions team has to andbe a selection of different chalets, with a shop months, bearing in mind that temperatures can climb deep into the 30s the biggest and busiestContour campsitepath in the mainEerstekloof Cederberg area• Kromrivier during the vineyards lying fields in and around the Cederberg. • Nieuwbrew craft brewery All the Hiking Routes lie within the boundaries of the privately owned called out. months, bearing in mind that temperatures can climb deep into the 30s Accommodation & camping Driehoek:Kromrivierkloof Nature This Reserve. is situated All guests staying about at Cederberg 23 Parkkm from• Calm Kromrivier.the victim. Make them Also comfortable has and good keep them warm. holiday season. It is situated about 18 km after the turnHiking off • from the N7, • Nieuwbrew craft brewery that sells basics, wood and wine, etc. To book call +27 27 482 2828 or in the middle of the day. The days are long and shade can almost always • Kromrivier vineyards • Mountain biking Climbingare guaranteed (Trad access &to allSport) the trails and climbing routes shown on this • Treat for shock. in the middle of the day. The days are long and shade can almost always Eatery • Fishing and boasts lovely shaded sites with ablutions and greatHorse swimming. ridingcampingmap, but It anyone is with not staying ablutions at Cederberg Park andwill have a toselection enquire and of• Assess different the injury [email protected] applychalets, first aid if withyou can. a shop be found amongst the beautiful and enchanting rock formations for your Climbing (Trad & Sport) Facilities & Activities • Mountain biking Hiking • • Picnic Areas book• inSwimming advance, as numbers are limited. • Get to Kromrivier reception as soon as possible and alert the rescue be found amongst the beautiful and enchanting rock formations for your • Swimming however quite far from Kromrivier. To book call 021 483 1090that orPermits go sells areto available basics, from• Picnic Cederberg wood Areas Park. and If you wine,would like toetc. start To book services call on 021 +27937Algeria 0300. 27 482Forest 2828 Station: or tea or lunch break. It is best to start very early on your hikes, to take Early morning start. Tafelberg peeking out in the background Accommodation & camping • Wedding & events venue • Fishing tea or lunch break. It is best to start very early on your hikes, to take Horse riding www.capenature.co.za [email protected], it is advisable to obtain your permit the day before. For more • Try and be as specificthe asbiggest possible in andexplaining busiest exactly where campsiteThis the is a inCape the Nature main Cederberg campsite andarea is during probably the advantage of the morning shade and cooler temperatures. loose (dangerous?) pillar that may have been Fire-breathing dragon standing guard near the summit of the peak information please contact Cederberg Park. victim is on the mountain, as this will speed up the process. The Route – 5 hr 20 min advantage of the morning shade and cooler temperatures. Eatery • Kromrivier vineyards • Nieuwbrew craft brewery Algeria Forest Station: This is a Cape Nature campsiteholiday and season. is probably It is situated about 18 km after the turn off from the N7, During winter however snowfall is also possible over the higher reaches, Car to Winterbach Peak junction – 2 hr 30 min Gravel Roads Hiking • ClimbingGeology (Trad & Sport) • Mountain biking Gravel Roads and boasts lovely shaded sites withDuring ablutions winter and however great swimming. snowfall It isis also possiblewhich over can the also higher lend a reaches,special twist to your hike. Always take protection A ledge leads to a finger-crack. Move 1 First off, do NOT follow the dirt track heading out to the left, but Lesser Gravel Roads the biggest and busiest campsite in the main Cederberg area during the Lesser Gravel Roads rather find the cairned path leading up from the right side of the car Horse ridingContour • PathsSwimmingThe Cederberg • Picnic mountain Areas range • Fishing was formed around 400 million years ago however quite far from Kromrivier.which To book can alsocall 021 lend 483 a 1090special or gotwist to to your hike.against Always the heat take and protection the cold, no matter what the weather looks like at park. Follow the good path heading up the right side of Tierkloof, Jeep Track Contour Paths Mountain Trails holiday season. It is situated about 18 km after the turn off from the N7, passing by the beautiful “giant’s throne” rock formation after a few To Maltese Cross and is part of the Cape fold mountain series, with theMountain rock Trails comprising www.capenature.co.za against the heat and the cold, no matter whatthe outsetthe weather of your hike.looks like at Off path trails minutes. Continue along, zig zagging and weaving your way up the Off path trailsand boasts lovely shaded sites with ablutions and great swimming. It is Rivers Dwarsrivierberg slopes, until you start veering off leftwards, which brings you to the of Table Mountain Sandstone which is on the whole Riversof the very highest 1 342 m the outset of your hike. Chalets & Camping however quite far from Kromrivier. To book call 021 483 1090 or go to bed of the kloof proper and welcoming shade (30 min). quality. Chalets & Camping From here follow the kloof for a while, till you cross over the rocky Parking Jeep Track another route opened by ‘Cookie’ (R. Anson- The Pup P P Parking www.capenature.co.za riverbed, then continue along the path on the left side of the kloof, The Cederberg is famous for its weird and wonderful rock formations, 1 723 m Sugarloaf Scale: 2.5 cm = 1 km Teatime on the river, on the way to Bakleikraal again weaving and zig zagging your way up, past some impressive The gnarly summit rocks on Winterbach Peak 1 445 m parking rock walls on the left, and if you look out you will see the ever the most famous of which are the Maltese Cross and the Wolfberg Arch Kromrivier Pass 1936 metre left, then 1 metre right, then finish present Tafelberg dominating the skyline far across the main valley, 1400m, from where you get breath taking views of the many surrounding P in the southern part of the range. However, no matter where you walk separating the Cederberg mountain range from the Tankwa Karoo. peaks near and far (20 min). It is worth noting, that the big ridge and +27 (27) 482 2807 [email protected] And just below and in front of Tafelberg standing proudly is the small, summit across the other side of the main kloof is not Winterbach Peak. To Bakleikraal or climb in the Cederberg you will see fantastic sculptured formations, sharp summit of Consolation Peak. Carry on for a while longer to Continue around before climbing up a small, short subsidiary kloof to which will conjure up all sorts of shapes and images in your mind, from Jeep Track reach the riverbed again (30 min). the right of the main+27 kloof, (27) and then 482 up the 2807 slopes above, [email protected] off to Jeep Track www.cederbergpark.com Carry on with the path, staying on the left side of the kloof while the right, passing an almost perfect 5m cubed block of flawless Cederberg Crystal clear waters on the Disa Pool trail you weave your way up, through typical Cederberg rock formations. rock, to reach a plateau with a nice white sandy www.cederbergpark.com path. Make your way over hovering amphibious landing craft shapes to jellyfish music composers to Rens se Kop kromriviercederbergparkKromrivier Gonnafontein Cook) on the same day. Above you will see more impressive rock walls as you near the top of this plateau, passing a myriad of rock formations of all shapes and sizes, pools dancing field mice. The mélange is endless, just go out and have a look. 1 037 m the kloof. Soon you will reach the riverbed of the kloof again, as the including a four-stack totem pole on your left, kromriviercederbergpark to reach a grassy clearing Disa Pool Disa Pool Sculptured rock formations near the summit of Winterbach Peak, parking path veers to the right (30 min). with some lovely flat slabs (25 min). Kromrivier The summit areas of WinterbachDisa Peak, Pool path Apollo Peak and Luna PeakP are Kromrivier ©Tony Lourens – all text, images and maps Jeep Track Cross the riverbed and continue up on the right side of the kloof, past From the end of the clearing follow cairns leftwards, through the Reception & so typical of the Cederberg . a veritable feast of the mostNo outlandish, part of this guide peculiar may be reproduced, and remarkable stored in a retrieval rock Kromrivier through overhangs. more amazing rock formations, especially the huge orange overhang boulders ahead, then more rightwards to reach a junction in the path Eatery off to the left. Soon the path leads to the right to gain a rock shelf. (15 min). Left leads to the summit of Winterbach and right leads to your +27 (27) 482 2807 [email protected], or transmitted in any form or by any means of . To Bakleikraal formationsContour Path of all shapes and sizes. Traverse this to the left, then move up to where the path contours off descent down Eerstekloof. This is a good spot for tea or breakfast, and photocopying, electronic, or mechanical recording or otherwise. Bobbejaankop ©Tony Lourens – all text, images and maps Contour Path climbing to the left for about 100 metres across a prominent shoulder at about also where you leave your packs for your ascent up Winterbach Peak. PP No part of this guide may be reproduced, stored in a The rocky traverse very close to the summit ofwww.cederbergpark.com Winterbach Peak Camping Old Kraal Sources Winterbach Contour Path retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any www.capenature.co.za, www.cederbergpark.com P Parking Glamping Winterbach Peakmeans ascent of photocopying, electronic, or mechanical kromriviercederbergpark Colossus www.samountain.co.za/bluemountainDie Trap recording or otherwise. 1 560 m Tweedekloof 9 780620 918381 Chalets Winterbach Summit Derdekloof West Tower East Tower Sources 9 7 8 0 6 2 0 9 1 8 3 9 8 www.capenature.co.za, www.cederbergpark.com ©Tony Lourens – all text, images and maps. Tierkloof Apollo Peak Plateau Cederberg Pincushion (Leucospermum spathulatum) near summit www.samountain.co.za/bluemountain No part of this guide may be reproduced, stored in a Eerstekloof 1 699 m retrieval Nek system, or transmitted in any form or by any GUIDED CLIMBING

means of photocopying, electronic, or mechanical THROUGHOUT SOUTH AFRICA

P S R TREKKING • TRAD CLIMBING • SPORT CLIMBING

Luna Cave/Tunnel O R

F O recording or otherwise. E T S C S U I O R T Tassel Heath (Erica coccinea) near summit area Kromrivierrug N S Luna Peak Winterbach Peak A N L I M & 1 675 m junction OU ES Sources Murraysberg NTAIN GUID SPECIALISING IN 1 649 m TURRET CEDERBERG www.capenature.co.za, www.cederbergpark.comMaanskyngrot Winterbach Peak The beautiful and serene Disa Pool – perfect on a hot day Kromrivier Cave, seen from the Disa Pool path Corkscrew Peak 1 536 m MONTAGU Space Race (19) 1 622 m www.samountain.co.za/bluemountain The sweeping views from the summit of Donkerkloofkop. The pointy summit of Sneeuberg (the highest peak in the Cederberg), on the right, with the unmistakable square-topped Tafelberg further to the right. TABLE MOUNTAIN The beautiful rocky scenery in Tierkloof

Path COURSES AVAILABLE Moving safely over Tierkloof steep ground Maanskyn Kop Introductory climbing 1 622 m Lead climbing Descending the upper reaches of Tierkloof Advanced lead climbing

Jeep track Winterbach parking P R. Halsey BLUEMOUNTAINADVENTURES.CO.ZA Weaving through boulders near the summit Teatime on the plateau below the summit BreekkranskloofCrawling through the hole linking the two passages. The first awkward step, made easier with some aids. 082 550 6819 or [email protected] Dark Side of the Moon (19) The crack 1 metre right of Space Walk. At MAPguide • • R. Behne A Hiker’s Companion Luna Peak Murraysberg Corkscrew Peak

To say that the Cederberg is unique is quite simply an understatement. It Kromrivierrug is a collection of mountains, valleys, canyons, rocky summits, rivers and the high ledge, move 1.5 metres right. wild and remote plateaux of unspeakable beauty – the home of the most spectacular, bizarre and twisted rock formations one could imagine – a Kromrivier • Cederberg place that keeps unfolding the more you explore and keeps on giving, the more adventurous you become. Western Cape • South Africa The Cederberg is also much more than just a mountain range. It is a Luna Peak • Murraysberg • Corkscrew Peak place steeped in history where people have lived, worked and farmed History • Geology • Flora • Fauna for many generations. It is the home of Rooibos tea, wine farms, yielding Steps up before traversing ALL the way left wines of exceptional quality, where the most remarkable craft beeris brewed, and wonderful hideaways where you can lose yourself and find yourself in a wonderland of majestic beauty and peace that can only be found in this remote mountain range at the tip of Africa. It is also the place where the Cape mountain leopard roam wild and free. For the hiker and climber the possibilities are literally endless, for the Cederberg mountains offer short easy walks of only a few hours to medium hikes taking anything from half to a full day, to demanding multi- day trails which can take you across the entire length of this spectacular range. A number of the best hikes are to be found in the Kromrivier Valley The Parthenon rock formation near Murraysberg to the skyline and up. and along the rugged Kromrivierrug. Some of the trails have been around for many moons, but some are new and beg exploration. Exploring the multiple peaks along the ridge is simply magical, and a must do for any Kromrivier Wines Luna-tick (24) Kromrivier Farm prides itself with a unique range of boutique wines. Enjoy adventurous hiker. And for the more subdued, or for a more relaxing day, the Disa Pool hike is ideal on a summers day, where one can cool off in a glass of our delicate Shiraz next to the fire on a cold winter night or try the deep, cool and irresistible waters of Disa Pool and also along the way our crisp Chardonnay for a refreshing experience. in smaller pools. All these stunning hikes and attractions can be accessed from Kromrivier Cederberg Park. Just remember, once in the Cederberg, you will get Wi Fi at various establishments, but there is basically no cell phone reception anywhere, except in and around Algeria Forest Station. But you won’t miss it! Surreal passages amongst rock towers near the summit of Luna Peak Galactic formations stand guard near the summit of Luna Peak How to get there R. Behne The Cederberg is a three to four hour drive from Cape Town, depending Fauna Flora NieuwBrew Craft Beer how you do it. From Cape Town, take the Cape–Namibia (N7) road north The Cederberg, in general, is not well endowed with visible wildlife, The Cederberg is named after the Clanwilliam cedar tree, and years ago Kromrivier is home to the first microbrewery in the Cederberg – towards Citrusdal. Drive a further 28 km toward Clanwilliam to the so don’t expect to see wildebeest sweeping majestically across the one could find these trees in abundance growing in many parts of the Nieuwbrew. Established in 2013 by two of the Nieuwoudt sisters, Algeria turn-off and take a right here. Follow the gravel road past Algeria landscape, but do expect to see troops of baboons lounging around the Cederberg, but these days they are much more scarce, although they can Melanie and Tania, NieuwBrew makes use of the finest ingredients Forest Station (18 km) and up and over the Uitkyk Pass to the upper mountains and at times coming down to the campsites to see if they can still be seen growing near cliffs or on rocky outcrops at altitudes above and excellent quality Cederberg mountain water – ‘soetwater’ – as the plateau towards Dwarsrivier. Soon you will pass the turn off to Driehoek ravage a cooler box or two. 1000 metres. Namaqualanders call it. (13 km from Algeria). Continue for another 15 km to reach Dwarsrivier There are a few species of buck, predators, reptiles and birds lurking Legend has it that in days gone by, cedar trees were chopped down and The range consists of six very different brews, from a refreshing ale to farm. Pass through and continue for just over 1 km to pass the Sanddrif about, but you are only likely to see a handful of these, as most of them used for telephone poles along the road from Clanwilliam to Citrusdal, a slightly richer English ale, a Weiss beer, a wonderful pumpkin ale, a Project (20) Campsite turnoff. Carry on for a further 2 km to reach the turn off to are either nocturnal or very shy creatures. The leopard is Cederberg’s but this has been disputed by some. The wood of the trees was also used Die Slee Eatery dark stout and a cherry blonde brew. And as good as the beer itself, are Die Slee (Afrikaans for The Sleigh) got its name from the cedarwood Kromrivier Cederberg Park. Take the right fork and drive about 4.75 km largest predator and is fairly common, but a sighting is very unlikely. to fashion furniture, some pieces of which can still be found here and the names of each beer and the design of the labels. There is not much A Photo illustrated Hiking and sleigh runner on display at the eatery. What looks like an ordinary along, then down the Kromrivier Pass to reach the reception building and Amongst the other predators you will also find wild cat, lynx, aardwolf there. Fortunately today the cedar tree is now protected and it is illegal to better than feeling the ice cold bite of your chosen brew slipping down wooden beam is in fact a piece of 19th century Cederberg engineering – Information Guide to the Cederberg restaurant. and fox. chop them down, or use any part of the tree for any purpose. your parched throat after a good day in the hills, accompanied by one of wooden sleighs were long used in the Cederberg as a means of transport, Unless you are very lucky, the best you will probably get is a sighting of Mountain fynbos covers much of the slopes of the Cederberg, where the tasty treats on the menu. particularly along tracks that were impassable by ox-wagons. Places to stay rock agama lizards doing press-ups in the sun and the beautiful Verreaux one can find protea, conebush, wild olive and restio veld among other With Melanie’s background of Food Science, specialising in brewing, Serving for many years as a doorsill in the old Kromrivier shed, the ‘Hard 24 . . . tricky to get into the crack line. I Kromrivier Cederberg Park: This is the best and most obvious place black eagles soaring effortlessly in the cobalt blue skies, almost always species. The endemic snow protea can also be found on the higher peaks and Tania’s expertise in logistics management, NieuwBrew will ensure sleigh runner now has its glory returned, being a display piece and the to stay if you want to explore the hiking and climbing featured in this in pairs, catching thermals and never flapping their wings, making them (particularly on Sneeuberg) during the months of February and March. you of the finest quality craft beer. brochure. There is excellent camping – each spacious campsite has the true masters of the sky. And on Winterbach Peak you will see the beautiful queen proteas in name of the eatery. Wi Fi, its own private mini ablution block and dish washing facility. There is And before you ask, yes, there are snakes – all sorts – harmless ones abundance during November and December From modest beginnings, serving milkshakes and toasted sandwiches Unfortunately, one meter of blank rock also a range of 10 glamping, fully furnished walk-in tents, and a selection and venomous ones, but the chances of an encounter are rare, but not Of course in the months of August and September, you will also find to passing motorcyclists, Die Slee is now a fully-fledged eatery, equipped of newly built luxury chalets. They have a fantastic eatery, serving mouth- impossible, so always be alert. the famous Namaqualand flowers in bloom, which cover many of the low with a fine kitchen and generous seating indoors and outdoors, with watering meals and snacks and a selection of cold drinks, fine wines, and lying fields in and around the Cederberg. exceptional views of the surrounding mountains. The kitchen uses only an excellent range of ice-cold craft beer, brewed right there on the farm. the freshest ingredients, providing their guests and hungry hikers and climbers excellent farm style cuisine, light meals and a selection of mouth- And a farm stall which sells basic food stuffs, drinks, Cederberg artefacts Climate and gifty things. Remember, hiking and climbing in the Kromrivier Valley is watering cakes, accompanied with delicious coffee. And of course, all and The Cederberg has a semi-desert climate making it extremely hot in any meal can be accompanied by their famous beer or wine. free to guests staying there. To book call +27 27 482 2807 or bookings@ summer and rather chilly in winter. And although it gets most of its rain recall traversing in with a lack of pro.’ cederbergpark.com. In case the Kromrivier accommodation is full, here and snowfall in winter it can also rain at times during summer. Having are some other popular alternatives. Die Plaaswerf said that, the best time to explore the Cederberg is during the summer Situated on Kromrivier is the picturesque Kromrivier Plaaswerf which Sanddrif: Situated on Dwarsrivier Farm, Sanddrif campsite and chalets months, bearing in mind that temperatures can climb deep into the 30s are only about 8 km from the Kromrivier Valley. They have good camping features the original farmhouse (Voorhuis) built in 1868 with a newly in the middle of the day. The days are long and shade can almost always restored thatch roof. Alongside is the Waenhuis which has also been blocks this fantastic line up the west face of facilities with ablutions and very comfortable newly renovated chalets. be found amongst the beautiful and enchanting rock formations for your There is also a farm stall that sells basic food stuffs, wood, cold drinks and renovated. Together, these facilities provide you with everything you need tea or lunch break. It is best to start very early on your hikes, to take to enjoy your wedding, team building event, conference or celebration. of course a range of excellent wine and beer. To book call +27 27 482 2825 advantage of the morning shade and cooler temperatures. or [email protected]. During winter however snowfall is also possible over the higher reaches, Shadow dancing in the moon craters on Luna Peak Nuwerus Rest Camp: Situated about 15 km south east of Kromrivier, which can also lend a special twist to your hike. Always take protection Nuwerust is also a good option for camping, etc. They have a big spread- against the heat and the cold, no matter what the weather looks like at out campsite, with nice trees and ablutions, and also some rustic the outset of your hike. chalets. There is a small shop for cold drinks and other basics and also Kromrivier farm is the oldest and one of the most a lapa with a huge group-braai area, and a pub with DSTV if you are into popular tourist destinations in the Cederberg. watching sporting events, etc. The book call +27 27 482 2813 or info@ The incomparable and unique rocks and walls of the Cederberg. The Bordering Truitjieskraal and other popular climbing cederbergexperience.co.za summit massif of Luna Peak towering above the hidden Luna Cave Sunset glow on the formations around Murraysberg the turret. areas, this resort offers an ideal base for climbers Kliphuis: This campsite is also on Dwarsrivier farm, about 6 km from the and hikers, while others can be kept busy and reception office. It only has camping, but on very nice sites under huge entertained with a variety of other activities. trees with ablutions. Use the same shop and booking details as Sanddrif. Driehoek: This is situated about 23 km from Kromrivier. Also has good Facilities & Activities camping with ablutions and a selection of different chalets, with a shop that sells basics, wood and wine, etc. To book call +27 27 482 2828 or Accommodation & camping • Wedding & events venue [email protected] Eatery • Kromrivier vineyards • Nieuwbrew craft brewery Algeria Forest Station: This is a Cape Nature campsite and is probably Turret East Side Hiking • Climbing (Trad & Sport) • Mountain biking the biggest and busiest campsite in the main Cederberg area during the Horse riding • Swimming • Picnic Areas • Fishing holiday season. It is situated about 18 km after the turn off from the N7, and boasts lovely shaded sites with ablutions and great swimming. It is however quite far from Kromrivier. To book call 021 483 1090 or go to www.capenature.co.za Geology The Cederberg mountain range was formed around 400 million years ago and is part of the Cape fold mountain series, with the rock comprising of Table Mountain Sandstone which is on the whole of the very highest quality. The Cederberg is famous for its weird and wonderful rock formations, Lost in Space (21) +27 (27) 482 2807 [email protected] the most famous of which are the Maltese Cross and the Wolfberg Arch www.cederbergpark.com in the southern part of the range. However, no matter where you walk OUT or climb in the Cederberg you will see fantastic sculptured formations, kromriviercederbergpark which will conjure up all sorts of shapes and images in your mind, from hovering amphibious landing craft shapes to jellyfish music composers to ©Tony Lourens – all text, images and maps. dancing field mice. The mélange is endless, just go out and have a look. No part of this guide may be reproduced, stored in a The summit areas of Winterbach Peak, Apollo Peak and Luna Peak are retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means of photocopying, electronic, or mechanical a veritable feast of the most outlandish, peculiar and remarkable rock recording or otherwise. formations of all shapes and sizes. Apollogetics (17) Sources www.capenature.co.za, www.cederbergpark.com 9 780620 918381 A. Hall, T. Dunnet www.samountain.co.za/bluemountain NOW Start up the Space Monkeys crack, then C. Kuhn • head left into a wild wall. Climb the south-eastern edge of the turret. Full colour both sides • A2 folded to handy DL size • Space Monkeys (19) Turret (Berrisford) Original (E) All the info you need at your finger tips • R. Halsey B. Berrisford. 1937 Suitable for visitors and locals Climb the distinct crack feature. Climb the east face of the turret via weathered rails. Space Cowboy (22) Photo illustrated hiking R. Halsey and information guides The arête just left of Space-Walk. to the Cederberg AVAILABLE AT MOST LEADING BOOK & OUTDOOR STORES Turret

Lost in Space

Luna Tick Space Space Space Space Race Cowboys Walk Monkeys Apollogetics

Airlock – left side Walk off Airlock Left Side A) Gibbous (20) ** R. Halsey. Nov 2020 Up the arcing crack, runout last third.

B) Zodiac (18) ** R. Halsey. Nov 2020 Exit to ledge on right to avoid some loose rock at top. Gibbous Zodiac C) Solstice (19) *** Solstice R. Halsey. Nov 2020 Equinox Sustained middle section.

D) Equinox (20) **** Other Areas R. Halsey. Nov 2020 Tends right up layback features. The majority of the sustained climbing lines are concentrated around the top band of Deep Space Sector Apollo Peak. However, the ridge between Between Apollo and Lunar peaks. Apollo and Winterbach Peak is a delight to explore, with dozens of peaks with various E) Anti-Faff (14) *** summits ranging from B to E grade. There R. Halsey, R. Strate. Nov 2020 are also, of course, a handful of fantastic Follow crack system on left of face. lines still to be discovered. Some additional lines include: F) Warp Drive (21) *** R. Halsey, R. Strate. Nov 2020 Colossus Peak Fierce start with tricky gear then easier. This is the peak below Apollo on the north G) Eager Beaver (18) **** side. R. Halsey, R. Strate. Nov 2020 Tends left up vertical cracks. Smell of Honey (15) C. and R. Walker, R. Melville. 1988 H) Homesick Mole (19) **** Starts immediately right of the first prominent R. Halsey, R. Strate. Nov 2020 sandy-floored cave, above the only big Cracks to right of blunt arête, tread carefully boulder on the slope below. in middle section. P1. 23m (13): Starting just left of an obvious white patch, climb diagonally up to the right. H) Light Speed (15) *** up a stepped ramp to the level of the first R. Halsey. Nov 2020 overhang. Start about 2 metres into gulley and easiest P2. 33m (16): Climb 4 metres up a recess, line up left wall/arête. then 3 metres right and climb to a mushroom- Tat is located above Light Speed, but the best shape. Go left into a bottomless crack, up, rap point would be above Anti-Faff. right and up a small ramp, and up a pillar.

Richard Halsey on Space Cowboy (22). Photo ANT HALL Deep Space Sector

Warp Drive Light Speed Anti-Faff On left wall of gulley Eager Beaver Homesick Mole - out of sight in photo

Winterbach area Move back left on a handrail and into a second bottomless crack. Climb up to Overlooking the Winterbach car park, and 300 a stance. metres right of the path is a striking orange wall P3. 20m (10): Up and break out to the with a right-left crack. right of a small overhang. Exit at a Stijnless Steel (19) large block to a large grassy ledge. C. Lotter, S. Laenen, A. Hall P4. 20m (10): Traverse 25 metres right The obvious crack. Use the right of the two to the second recess and climb to a crack options. A midway stance is available out ledge under a large red overhang. to the right. P5. 30m (11): Dassie-traverse out to the right to exit the overhangs. Climb up Stick It (17) Attempts on the at the first opportunity and finish up a E. and C. Kuhn, A. Wood main ‘Airlock’ wall crack at the left of a ledge. 15 metres right, around the corner, is an have thus far been unsuccessful! P6: Scramble up to the left to a broad undercut take-off, followed by a fantastic looking Photo TIM DUNNET escape ledge. sustained face. Rock climbing started in June WHO’S YOUR 1886, at least according to the English, who claim to have invented most sports they no (GRAND) longer win at. By then most major peaks in the Alps had been conquered, but – so the argument DADDY? goes – any technical climbing was purely from necessity, with The history no sane climber tackling a fine line for fun. Then along came an of upper-class idler named Walter ROCK Parry Haskett Smith. And to Lords, Wembley and Wimbledon, CLIMBING add soggy Borrowdale Valley in by MATTHEW HOLT the Lake District.

Early ‘chimney sweeps’ on Napes Needle

34 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 shotgun went off, just before a scandal progressively fainter and looser, till we featuring a male brothel.) entered a gloomy gully at the base of After descending Scafell Pike, we Napes Needle. checked into the Scafell Hotel, whose ‘Isn’t that the route Leo Houlding bar offered characterful local ales and climbed last year?’ I asked, pointing to an ‘Fill Yer Boots Grub’. So, we dined overhanging bulge which the star alpinist instead in its award-winning restaurant, had heel-hooked up on YouTube. which promised haute cuisine and ‘Probably’, replied Mike, patently attentive service. ‘My steak’s too chewy’, less impressed. ‘The hardest route is on complained the peroxide blonde on the the other side. A mate and I opened it neighbouring table. ‘So’s mine’, growled a few years back. We wanted to call it her husband. Needle Wedgie, but were told that was ‘Ah, chewy, what is this? I am from inappropriate’, he snorted, with a lingering Ecuador’, beamed the swarthy young sense of injustice. They compromised waiter, cheerfully clearing their plates. on Sick’ard Shiver, graded E6 6b on the The next morning, we stumbled outside incomprehensible British climbing scale. into damp, cloying mist. To complement Instead, I opted to follow Haskett The inventor of rock climbing, Walter Parry Haskett Smith my team, I’d lined up Mike Norbury, a Smith’s inaugural line – partly out of local climber with a gnarly route resumé a reverence for history, but largely for scaping between Covid and, better still, experience dragging an self-preservation. And with even more lockdowns, Fiona and I made 85-year-old up Napes Needle. Groping reverence for the latter, I tied on to Mike’s the pilgrimage to Borrowdale, around the hotel car park, we eventually proffered rope. Many years after his solo describedE by Haskett Smith as ‘the heart located his authentically battered van. ascent, Haskett Smith wrote, ‘In those of the finest scenery and the best climbing ‘Oy! Chip and Elvis, get off!’ he days we were heretical in our attitude in England’ – though he did point out commanded vainly, as two collie dogs towards the use of the rope. Not having that the ‘natives were not famed for their seized the front seats. ‘Sorry the van one ourselves, we were inclined to scoff at intelligence’, being known as ‘Borrowdale smells so bad’, he superfluously noted, those who had; and in the gall of bitterness gowks’. Despite the gowks boasting to ‘but I’ve been living in it since lockdown.’ we classed ropes with spikes and ladders, live in the UK’s rainiest inhabited spot, Gratefully disembarking the malodorous as a means by which bad climbers were we arrived on a warm, sunny day. And vehicle at Seathwaite Farm, we shouldered enabled to go where none but the best having pitched up before pubs opened, we our packs and set off for Styhead Tarn, climbers had any business to be.’ But I felt obliged to stomp up Scafell Pike (978 with Chip bounding ahead and Elvis wasn’t to be goaded. metres), bagging a Wainwright, Birkett, limping a long way Nuttall, Hewitt, HuMP and England’s behind. highest peak in one go, without needing to ‘He’s 15 years old and jam or crimp. has arthritis, but loves From Scafell, we looked across at the it’, claimed Mike loudly, bald grey pate of Great Gable. Halfway up as passers-by debated its south face, and completely superfluous alerting the RSPCA. to any sensible mountaineering objective, By now, the mist had was a slender spire, known as Napes evaporated, unveiling Needle, where Haskett Smith ‘invented’ another bluebird day, Wilderness, rock climbing. plus a crocodile of Urban & Having studied at Oxford University walkers heading towards Tactical First Aid (where he set an unofficial world record Scafell Pike. Training for long jump) and qualified as a barrister ‘Why does everybody ...since 2004 (though he refused to accept any cases), do the same thing?’ 082 770 7876 Haskett Smith amused himself with travel scowled Mike. www.wildmedix.com and outdoor pursuits. In June 1886, aged ‘It is England’s highest 26, out hiking alone, he soloed Napes peak’, I reasoned. Needle, leaving a handkerchief as proof of ‘Just like bloody his ascent. Thereafter, Borrowdale became Everest’, he ranted on, SA’s most the mecca for those wishing to rock climb picking up Elvis in a experienced & accomplished for the sake of it, despite the venerable fireman’s lift. adventure Alpine Club dismissing them as ‘chimney Fortunately, at Styhead guide training sweeps’. The Needle was climbed thrice Tarn we left the main school, in 1889, and the following year Dorothea trail to contour beneath Koecher made the first female ascent, the various Knotts ...since 1994 accompanied by Haskett Smith and his and Crags disfiguring FORTH younger brother, Edmund. (Their elder Great Gable’s southern international brother, Algernon, died in 1887 when his flank. The trail got VENTURE 074 159 3435 www.ventureforth.co.za Though involving only 20 metres of people rock climbing began in the Western imposing peak was 2189-metre Towerkop actual climbing and graded a modest ‘HS’ Cape’, retorted Tony, challenging me to or ‘Magic Head’, with steepening grey (Hard Severe), the route is described in join his forthcoming trip to Towerkop. flanks rising to two almost identical various guidebooks as ‘highly exposed’ The expedition assembled at the Total towers, separated by a thin shaft of light. and ‘a polished climb of high excitement’. garage in Ladismith. Despite oil puddles It was as if the mountain had been cleaved Typically tackled in two pitches, the and diesel fumes, we knew we were with an axe – though local lore claims it first followed a wide crack, which we nearing an iconic venue, with the Klein was a witch’s broomstick. Simultaneously dispatched surprisingly briskly, regrouping Swartberg bursting out of the plain, just alluring and repelling, Towerkop was for after a couple of minutes on a spacious a few kilometres to the north. The most a long time considered unclimbable, with shoulder. From here it was a mere six metres to The home of rock climbing, Towerkop the top and, while I posed for a photo and Fiona fumbled for her camera, Mike shimmied up till just his toes were visible. ‘Climb on’, he shouted down, and I only now took stock of my predicament. This was the Needle’s infamous crux – two smooth, trapezium-shaped boulders balanced one atop the other. A head- high horizontal crack offered sufficient space for toes, but reaching it required either levitation or chancing it out on the exposed north face. Having unsuccessfully tried the former, I reluctantly slid out right, toes scraping for wrinkles, fingers Fiona climbing on Needle clawing for nodules. Deploying moves Ridge, with Napes Needle looming behind. unknown to Alex Honnold, I slithered Photo MATTHEW HOLT upwards like an amoeba, then edged back round to the more considerately angled south face, before bellyflopping onto the top. As Mike enthusiastically pointed out distant landmarks, I recovered my poise, inspected the unusual belay, and ignored Fiona’s instructions to stand on the edge for a photo. Medieval scholars never resolved how many angels can dance on a pinhead, but it’s generally accepted there’s only The ‘actual’ inventor of rock climbing, Gustav Nefdt, in later life. room for two climbers atop Napes Photo P.C.B. SCOTT HAYWARD Needle before the top block wobbles, so I slithered back down to the shoulder to allow Fiona up. Then we all abseiled back into the gully, where Elvis and Chip slept on, unimpressed. If also unobserved on his inaugural ascent, Haskett Smith drew a crowd when he returned to Napes Needle to commemorate its golden jubilee. Despite being 76 and suffering from Parkinson’s Disease, he scaled it again, though this time he took the precaution of roping up. Some 300 spectators cheered him on and, when he reached the top, he broke out singing ‘For He’s a Jolly Good Fellow.’ Someone then shouted up ‘Tell us a story!’ to which Haskett Smith responded ‘There is no other story, this is the top storey.’ Back in South Africa, I was embellishing my feat to Tony Lourens, author of vague climbing guides, and general mountaineering aficionado. ‘I tell

36 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021 a £50 bounty (about R130k today) offered for the first ascent. The details of its conquest have blurred over time but, essentially, in October 1885 – some eight months before Haskett Smith soloed Napes Needle – a party of game local lads launched an assault. While they rested beneath the perpendicular 120-metre cliffs guarding the twin summits, 19-year-old Gustav Nefdt slipped away and soloed to the top, fortuitously selecting the marginally higher western turret, where he left a sock as evidence of his visit. On re-joining his friends, he refused to repeat the feat or even assist them, claiming it was far too dangerous. And when they returned to Ladismith, he was generally disbelieved. So, two weeks later, Nefdt repeated his climb, hauling up two witnesses on a rope and retrieving his sock.

Garvin Jacobs leading pitch 1 of Nefdt’s route. Photo MATTHEW HOLT www.traversegear.co.za This time, he descended to Ladismith as a hero, though his descendants claim he never received the bounty, and he refused to ascend Towerkop ever again. Despite numerous attempts by the Cape’s top climbers, the western summit wasn’t revisited till 1906 (via an easier crack) and Nefdt’s route wasn’t repeated till 1947. Tony’s nine-strong party had been picked for comradeship rather than rock craft, running from Garvin (a part-time climbing guide) and Mandy (who’d summited Everest) to Anne-Marie (who’d tied onto a rope once and ran the Montagu Tourism office, where Tony happens to live). Leaving our cars in Bo-Buffelskloof, we hiked for 8 kilometres and gained some 1,000 metres, before camping on a grassy meadow beside a half-derelict hut, some way below where Nefdt’s party rested, but then we were carrying ropes and climbing gear. The next morning, we dropped our overnight gear in Nel’s Cave at 2,000 metres and picked our way round to the western tower’s south face. As we scrambled up greasy crags, contoured above airy drops, and clambered up and down the wrong gully, our ebullience waned. ‘I think this is it’, mulled Tony, beneath a shallow scoop in a polished cliff, which bulged with awkward overhangs. If I was partly curious why Nefdt had picked this particular spot, mostly I was appalled. Nefdt’s pioneering route is now typically tackled in two pitches, both about 25 metres long, with the first marginally harder at SA grade 17. As they say about most things, however, there are grade 17s and grade 17s – and this was definitely the latter. Garvin nobly led the first pitch, but when he was up, I was none the wiser. This was much the same as when Nefdt made his second ascent, with his witnesses leaving contradictory and confusing accounts, such that several subsequent attempts inadvertently climbed variations. When my turn came, I edged and smeared upwards, slowly making vertical progress. In fact, after a few metres I was even feeling quite stylish. And then I was off, fingers clawing air as I pendulumed across the face. After more edging, smearing and tight rope, I eventually reached the ledge – reflecting that Nefdt must have been blessed with fingers of steel, limbs like a lizard, and nerves unlike mine. I’d been feeling more confident about the second The second pitch of Nefdt’s route. Photo MANDY RAMSDEN pitch, until I spotted Anne-Marie swinging upside down, wide-eyed, her helmet a few centimetres off the deck. Supposedly a secure chimney, it was more an off-width crack, with vegetated obstacles to boot. Dangling on ropes, battling gravity and incompetence, our efforts were comical or heroic, depending on your take. But, somehow, after a couple of hours we were all on top. And at least we could abseil off, whereas Nefdt had to climb back down his route, jumping the last nine metres. We spent that night in Nel’s Cave, celebrating with whisky and wine, though but for the rope half of us would have been dead. As for who invented rock climbing, well you can argue the toss. For what it’s worth, over 135 years after Nefdt and Haskett Smith’s bold solos, climbing has been included in the Olympic Games. Of the 40 qualified contestants, there are four from France, Japan and the US, two from South Africa, and only one from England. Like most sports, then. Tony Lourens demonstrating his Italian culinary heritage in Nel’s Cave. Photo MATTHEW HOLT 38 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021 South Africa in the CLASSIFIEDS Olympic CLASSIFIEDS Games CLASSIFIEDS

Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge

Situated at the foot of the magnificent Sentinel Peak looking across the Drakensberg’s t doesn’t matter what one thinks of climbing being Mont-Aux-Sources and Amphitheater Ipart of the Olympic Games, or the format, which lumped all three disciplines (speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing) in one pot, or indeed the scoring system, which was confounding at the best of times. The fact is, it happened. And South Africa was very proud to be able to send two young up and coming rock stars,

Erin Sterkenburg and Christopher Cosser, to represent Scenic accommodation • Close proximity to the Chain Ladders • Easy access to the Amphitheatre the Rainbow Nation – the only African country to qualify Rock climbing on spectacular cliff faces • Hiking trails through the Drakensberg mountain range and one of only 19 nations worldwide. [email protected] • www.witsieshoek.co.za Of course, going head to head with some of the biggest +27 58 713 6361/2 • +27 73 228 7391 • +27 83 229 1045 names on the world competition climbing arena, like Adam Ondra, Jacob Schubert, Sean McColl in the men’s, and Janja Garnbret, Laura Rogora and Brooke Raboutou in the women’s, was an intimidating prospect to say the least, and clearly we were never going to come home with gold. But, it must be said that given the enormity of the occasion, our athletes performed admirably, keeping all GEAR UP of us back home glued to our TV screens and shouting GET OUT encouragement. And most importantly, they both came home with invaluable competition experience. Experience gained by climbing alongside the world greats on the most prestigious competition platform on the planet. So, a big congratulations to Chris and Erin. & CHRISTOPHER COSSER Centurion 012 665 2079 Cape Town 021 510 8112 Born: 12 December 2000 (age 20 years) Bellville 021 949 0039 Chris won the combined event at the 2020 African Climbing WWW.OUTDOORSHOP.CO.ZA Championships to qualify him for the 2020 Summer Olympics. Sponsors: CityROCK, La Sportiva, The North Face,

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Just before they left for Tokyo, I caught up with James Barnes, Erin’s coach, and chatted to him about Erin’s Neat & clean chalets within walking distance 10 Tanner Street, Montagu, 6720 climbing and his role as coach. of Badkloof and other climbing spots. Call Dave or Tara on 023 614 1294 [email protected] www.rainbowglen.co.za Read all about it here •

SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2021 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA 39 BOOK REVIEWS Avoiding the Grim Reaper by Rik de Decker Illustrated by Chip Snaddon

It is sobering that many of the stories in this book illustrate how easily what

may have seemedReview at first to be a very ordinary “jol” by can convert intoa life-threatening scenario. It is so often a combination of factors, each one

EPIC! YOUR ENJOY TO HOW – seemingly innocuous, that leads up to the development of a crisis. While REAPER GRIM THE AVOIDING many of the stories are quite funny, they convey a serious message too – when things go seriously wrong, the “Grim Reaper” is usually not too far away. Tony Dick AVOIDING The stories do also give some sense of the dedication of those who go out to pick up the pieces – the climbers and helicopter crews who are prepared to THE GRIM REAPER turn out on rescues at a moment’s notice to help someone in need, often in the most horrendous weather conditions. How to enjoy your epic!

André is a retired climber, a mountain rescue guru and erstwhileAndré President Schoon of

the Mountain Club ofAVOIDING THE GRIM REAPER – HOW TOSouth ENJOY YOUR EPIC! Africa (1996-2002).

It is sobering that many of the stories in this book illustrate how easily what may have seemed at first to be a very ordinary “jol” can convert intoa AVOIDING Yoga for Sports life-threatening scenario. It is so often a combination of factors, each one seemingly innocuous, that leads up to the development of a crisis. While many of the stories are quite funny, they convey a serious message too – THE GRIM REAPER when things go seriously wrong, the “Grim Reaper” is usually not too far UNTAIN R O ES M C away. U E

S.A. RED CROSS AIR MERCY SERVICE How to enjoy your epic! The stories do also give some sense of the dedication of those who go out to

U T- pick up the pieces – the climbers and helicopter crews who are prepared to MA IT RE- M-S turn out on rescues at a moment’s notice to help someone in need, often in LIBERU Performance the most horrendous weather conditions. André Schoon

André is a retired climber, a mountain rescue guru and erstwhile President of SNADDON CHIP / DECKER DE RIK the Mountain Club of South Africa (1996-2002).

TAIN RE UN SC O U M E By Jim Harrington

S.A. RED CROSS AIR MERCY SERVICE UT SIT -M M- ARE-LIBERU Barcode

RIK DE DECKER / CHIP SNADDON

collated by • Publisher: Jonathan Ball Rik De Decker illustrated by 1 | AVOIDING THE GRIM REAPER Chip Snaddon • 332 pages full colour illustrated by Barcode collated by Chip Snaddon Rik De Decker 1 | AVOIDING THE GRIM REAPER • 25 cm high x 18 cm wide

Let’s start with the cover. Of course, I now Review by Alta Lourette wish I had written about other epics in my small input into Rik’s book, because When I moved to Cape Town from then Butch de Bruin wouldn’t be shown India, I had already been practicing and struggling out of Duiwelskloof. I don’t know teaching yoga long enough to have R595 Chip Snaddon, but his contribution to this been questioning the movement, and felt book is broad and light. However, I do Westerners were sharing it with a lot of feel a bit sad that Butch is sitting in New ignorance. As I became part of the yoga and sports performance. Yoga can Zealand, pissed off at looking like an old community in Cape Town, I used to hear complement any type of sport and this fart on the cover. Maybe Snaddon only had about this Jim Harrington oke a lot, as if book is a great guide in terms of that. a recent photo of him in his seventies, but he was the bomb, and that just fed my The book has an ‘Alignment Redefined’ he obviously didn’t look that knackered in skeptism. When I Googled him and saw theme and includes a huge chapter on his late twenties when the epic happened. his flawless advanced yoga poses, I rolled it. As you progress in rock climbing, Ok, that’s just the cover. Open the book my eyes and thought pfft, just another your movements need to become and there’s a lot of better stuff inside Instagram yogi. more specific, therefore redefining and (although, I secretly do like the cover). But I wanted to do more yoga training exploring your own body’s alignment Not only is this gruesome topic handled and eventually ended up at Jim’s is very important. I am very impressed well by the illustrator, but Rik’s light touch ‘Alignment Redefined’ programme after with how Jim explains many complicated shines throughout. I especially enjoyed not finding anything else more interesting. processes in the body in such a simple the beginning and the end (Preamble and When I met the man, boy, was I wrong. fashion and wish he’d been my university Postamble) by Rik’s close buddies, Andy Jim is most humble, beautiful (inside lecturer when I studied Human Biology. Wood and Roy White. and out) and authentic, as well as funny, In the book, he describes six different After Rik’s very informative summary knowledgeable and wise. That programme types of stretches, includes a bit of sport of the correct way to deal with mountain changed my approach to yoga completely history, a chapter on understanding epics, he takes a back seat, allowing and helped me to let go of what yoga is sports injuries and how we heal from a diverse range of his friends to relate supposed to look like, and instead explore them, breathing techniques, and even their personal experiences. Without his how my body wants to go into positions. puts together a yoga programme for you. overview though, this could easily have Many years later, the man finally put his There is also a chapter on functional been a rather miserable book. It is anything work and solid teachings into a book, and I anatomy lines, functional movement, as but! was honoured when asked to review it. well as psychology and mental training. There’s freezing winter hiking, kloofing As a rock climber, the first thing I did Lastly, the book is firmly grounded in flooded rivers (involuntary or not), scary when I opened the book was look for evidence and scientific research and kayaking, and BASE jumping into cliffs. rock climbing specific content. I was packed with information, and not an airy- Also falling off cliffs, getting hopelessly lost, disappointed when I didn’t find any, but fairy yoga book with pretty pictures of Jim and even a close encounter with a hungry- soon discovered that it did not matter, (like I had hoped for). looking leopard. All are rounded off with the because you can apply all the principles of An excerpt from the book: ‘Yoga possibility of a quick and efficient helicopter the book to rock climbing. The book talks doesn’t have to be beautiful, it should rescue, so that you can have a few good to yoga teachers and body therapists who feel beautiful on the inside because it is laughs in the pub afterwards. can use the content with their students balanced and poised.’ And this is how The result is much more fun than you and clients, although in my opinion, the rock climbing should feel. Improve your would expect of such a potentially grim book is for anyone interested in learning movement on rock, get Yoga for Sports topic. about human anatomy, physiology, Performance. www.yogaforsports.co.za Hats off to Rik de Decker.

40 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2021 guide BOOKS Table Mountain • Cape Peninsula • Cederberg Western Cape • Drakensberg • Namibia

MAPguide A Hiker’s Companion • • Corkscrew Peak MAPguide Luna Peak MurraysbergDonkerkloofkop A Hiker’s Companion • Donkerkloofkop & Apollo Apollo Peak To say that the Cederberg is unique is quite simply an understatement. It To say that the Cederberg is unique is quite simply an understatement. It • is aKromrivier collection of mountains, valleys, • canyons, Cederberg rocky summits, rivers and is aMAP collection of mountains,guide valleys, canyons, rocky summits, rivers and wild and remote plateaux of unspeakable beauty – the home of the most A Hiker’s Companion Disa Pool wild and remote plateaux of unspeakable beauty – the home of the most Kromrivierrug spectacular,Western bizarre and Capetwisted rock formations one could imagine – a spectacular, bizarre and twisted rock formations one could imagine – a MAPguideS place that keeps unfolding the more you explore and keeps on giving, the Donkerkloofkop • South Africa place that keeps unfolding the more you explore and keeps on giving, the • Cederberg more adventurous you become. more adventurous you become. Kromrivier The CederbergHistory is also much •more Apollo than Peak just a mountain range. It is a • South Africa • Geology • Disa Pool The Cederberg is also much more than just a mountain range. It is a Western Cape place steeped in history where people• Flora have lived, worked and farmed place steeped in history where people have lived, worked and farmed • Corkscrew Peak for many generations. It is the home of Rooibos• Fauna tea, wine farms, yielding • Murraysberg for many generations. It is the home of Rooibos tea, wine farms, yielding Luna Peak • Fauna wines of exceptional quality, where the most remarkable craft beeris • Geology • Flora wines of exceptional quality, where the most remarkable craft beeris A Hiker’s Companion History brewed, and wonderful hideaways where you can lose yourself and find brewed, and wonderful hideaways where you can lose yourself and find yourself in a wonderland of majestic beauty and peace that can only be KromrivierWinterbach Peak yourself in a wonderland of majestic beauty and peace that can only be Winterbach Peak found in this remote mountain range at the tip of Africa. It is also the The Parthenon rock formation near Murraysberg found in this remote mountain range at the tip of Africa. It is also the place where the Cape mountain leopard roam wild and free. Western Cape For the hiker and climber the possibilities are literally endless, for place where the Cape mountain• leopard roam wild and free. Kromrivier Wines the Cederberg mountains offer short easy walks of only a few hours to For the hiker and climber the possibilities Cederberg are literally endless, for Kromrivier Farm prides itself with a unique range of boutique wines. Enjoy the Cederberg mountains offer short easy walks of only a few hours to medium hikes taking anything from half to a full day, to demanding multi- Winterbach Peak• SouthCircuit Africa To say that the Cederberg is unique is quite simply an understatement. It a glass of our delicate Shiraz next to the fire on a cold winter night or try Photo Illustrated Map Guides day trails which can take you across the entire length of this spectacular medium hikesHistory taking anything from half to a full day, to demanding multi-is a collection of mountains, valleys, canyons, rocky summits, rivers and our crisp Chardonnay for a refreshing experience. range. day trails which can• takeGeology you across the entire length of this spectacularwild and remote plateaux of unspeakable beauty – the home of the most range. A number of the best hikes are to be found in the Kromrivier Valley • Flora spectacular, bizarre and twisted rock formations one could imagine – a Circuit and along the rugged Kromrivierrug. Some of the trails have been around A number of the best hikes are to be •found Fauna in the Kromrivier Valley place that keepsOn theunfolding summit the moreof Apollo you explore and keeps on giving, the for many moons, but some are new and beg exploration. Exploring theand along the rugged Kromrivierrug. Some of the trails have been aroundmore adventurous you become. multiple peaks along the ridge is simply magical, and a must do for anyfor many moons, but some are new and beg exploration. Exploring theThe CederbergGeology is also much more than just a mountain range. It is a adventurous hiker. And for the more subdued, or for a more relaxing day,multiple peaks along the ridge is simply magical, and a must do for anyplace steeped inThe history Cederberg where people mountain have rangelived, worked was formed and farmed around 400 million years ago the Disa Pool hike is ideal on a summers day, where one can cool off adventurousin hiker. And for the more subdued, or for a more relaxingfor day, many generations.and is part It is ofthe the home Cape of foldRooibos mountain tea, wine series, farms, with yielding the rock comprising the deep, cool and irresistible waters of Disa Pool and also along thethe way Disa Pool hike is ideal on a summers day, where one can cool offwines in of exceptionalof Table quality, Mountain where Sandstone the most which remarkable is on the craft whole beeris of the very highest Leaving Bakleikraal, on the way to Donkerkloofkop brewed, and wonderful hideaways where you can lose yourself and find Galactic formations stand guard near the summit of Luna Peak in smaller pools. All these stunning hikes and attractions can be accessed quality. Sunset over a distant ocean, from Bakleikraal • Table Mountain • Lion’s Head • Kirstenbosch the deep, cool and irresistible waters of Disa Pool and also along theyourself way in a wonderland of majestic beauty and peace that can only be from Kromrivier Cederberg Park. in smaller pools. All these stunning hikes and attractions can be foundaccessed in this remoteThe mountain Cederberg range isat famous the tip offor Africa. its weird It is also and the wonderful rock formations, NieuwBrew Craft Beer Just remember, once in the Cederberg, you will get Wi Fi at variousfrom Kromrivier Cederberg Park. place where the Capethe mountain most famous leopard of roamwhich wild are and the free. Maltese Cross and the Wolfberg Arch Kromrivier is home to the first microbrewery in the Cederberg – establishments, but there is basically no cell phone reception anywhere, Just remember,Surreal once passages in the Cederberg, amongst you rock will towers get Wi near Fi at the various summitFor the hikerof Luna and climberPeakin the southern theFlora possibilities part of are the literally range. However, endless, for no matter where you walk Nieuwbrew. Established in 2013 by two of the Nieuwoudt sisters, except in and around Algeria Forest Station. But you won’t miss it!establishments, but there is basically no cell phone reception anywhere,the Cederberg mountainsor climb offer inThe theshort Cederberg Cederberg easy walks is you namedof only will a afterseefew fantastichours the toClanwilliam sculptured cedar formations, tree, and years ago Melanie and Tania, NieuwBrew makes use of the finest ingredients except in and aroundFauna Algeria Forest Station. But you won’t missmedium it! hikes takingwhich anything will from conjureone half could toup finda all full sorts day,these ofto trees demandingshapes in abundanceand multi- images growing in your in mind, many from parts of the and excellent quality Cederberg mountain water – ‘soetwater’ – as the How to get there The Cederberg, in general, is not well endowed with visible wildlife, Cederberg, but these days they are much more scarce, although they can • Wolfberg – Cederberg • Sneeuberg – Cederberg day trails which can takehovering you across amphibious the entire landing length craftof this shapesspectacular to jellyfish music composers to Namaqualanders call it. Die Slee Eatery The Cederberg is a three to four hour drive from Cape Town, depending so don’t expect to see wildebeest sweeping majesticallyrange. across the dancing fieldstill mice. be seenThe growingmélange isnear endless, cliffs orjust on gorocky out outcropsand have at a altitudeslook. above The range consists of six very different brews, from a refreshing ale to How to get there Die Slee (Afrikaans for The Sleigh) got its name from the cedarwood how you do it. From Cape Town, take the Cape–Namibia (N7) roadThe northCederberg is landscape,a three to butfour do hour expect drive to fromsee troops Cape Town,of baboons dependingA number lounging of aroundthe best Thethe hikes summit are to be areas1000 found metres.of in Winterbach the Kromrivier Peak, Valley Apollo Peak and Luna Peak are a slightly richer English ale, a Weiss beer, a wonderful pumpkin ale, a towards Citrusdal. Drive a further 28 km toward Clanwilliam to the mountains and at times coming down to the andcampsites along theto seerugged if they Kromrivierrug. can SomeLegend of the has trails it that have in beendays gonearound by, cedar trees were chopped down and sleigh runner on display at the eatery. What looks like an ordinary how you do it. From Cape Town, take the Cape–Namibia (N7) road north a veritable feast of the most outlandish, peculiar and remarkable rock dark stout and a cherry blonde brew. And as good as the beer itself, are Algeria turn-off and take a right here. Follow the gravel road past Algeria ravage a cooler box or two. for many moons, but some are new andused beg forexploration. telephone Exploring poles along the the road from Clanwilliam to Citrusdal, wooden beam is in fact a piece of 19th century Cederberg engineering – towards Citrusdal. Drive a further 28 km toward Clanwilliam to the formations of all shapes and sizes. the names of each beer and the design of the labels. There is not much Forest Station (18 km) and up and over the Uitkyk Pass to the upper There are a few species of buck, predators,multiple reptiles peaks and alongbirds lurkingthe ridge is simply butmagical, this has and been a must disputed do for any by some. The wood of the trees was also used wooden sleighs were long used in the Cederberg as a means of transport, Sculptured rock formations on the plateau ’twixt Luna and Apollo Algeria turn-off and take a right here. Follow the gravel road past Algeria better than feeling the ice cold bite of your chosen brew slipping down plateau towards Dwarsrivier. Soon you will pass the turn off to Driehoek about, but you are only likely to see a handfuladventurous of these, hiker. as most And of for them the more subdued,to fashion or for furniture, a more relaxing some pieces day, of which can still be found here and your parched throat after a good day in the hills, accompanied by one of particularly along tracks that were impassable by ox-wagons. Forest Station (18 km) and up and over the Uitkyk Pass to the upper Fauna • Kromrivierug – Cederberg (13 km from Algeria). Continue for another 15 km to reach Dwarsrivier are either nocturnal or very shy creatures.the The Disa leopard Pool hike is Cederberg’s is ideal on a summers day,there. where Fortunately one can cool today off thein cedar tree is now protected and it is illegal to Serving for many years as a doorsill in the old Kromrivier shed, the Kromrivier Wines The Cederberg, in general, is not well endowed with visible wildlife, the tasty treats on the menu. farm. Pass through and continue for just over 1 km to pass plateauthe Sanddrif towards Dwarsrivier.largest predator Soon you and will is fairly pass common,the turn off butthe ato deep, sightingDriehoek cool andis veryirresistible unlikely. waters of Disachop Pool them and down,also along or usethe anyway part of the tree for any purpose. With Melanie’s background of Food Science, specialising in brewing, sleigh runner now has its glory returned, being a display piece and the Kromrivier Farm prides itself with a unique range of boutique wines. Enjoy A Photo illustrated Hiking and in smaller pools. All these stunningso don’t hikes expect and to attractions see wildebeest can be sweeping accessed majestically across the Campsite turnoff. Carry on for a further 2 km to reach the (13turn km off from to Algeria).Amongst Continue the for other another predators 15 km you to willreach also Dwarsrivier find wild cat, lynx, aardwolf Mountain fynbos covers much of the slopes of the Cederberg, whereApproaching and the Tania’s unmistakable expertise inrounded logistics summit management, of Donkerkloofkop NieuwBrew will ensure name of the eatery. a glass of our delicate Shiraz next to the fire on a cold winter night or try from Kromrivier Cederberg landscape,Park. but do expect to see troops of baboons lounging around the From modest beginnings, serving milkshakes and toasted sandwiches Information GuideKromrivier to the CederbergCederberg Park. Take the right fork and drive aboutfarm. 4.75 Pass km through andand continue fox. for just over 1 km to pass the Sanddrif one can find protea, conebush, wild olive and restio veld among other you of the finest quality craft beer. our crisp Chardonnay for a refreshing experience. along, then down the Kromrivier Pass to reach the receptionCampsite building turnoff. and CarryUnless on for you a further are very 2 lucky,km to reachthe best the you Justturn will remember, off probably to once get is in a the sightingmountains Cederberg, of and you willatspecies. times get Wi FicomingThe at variousendemic down snowto the protea campsites can also to seebe found if they on can the higher peaksFlora to passing motorcyclists, Die Slee is now a fully-fledged eatery, equipped establishments, but there is basically no cell phone reception anywhere, restaurant. Kromrivier Cederberg Park. Take the right fork and drive about 4.75 km ravage a cooler box or two. The Cederberg is named after the Clanwilliam cedar tree, and years ago with a fine kitchen and generous seating indoors and outdoors, with A Photo illustrated Hiking and rock agama lizards doing press-upsexcept in the insun and and around the beautiful Algeria Forest Verreaux Station. But (particularlyyou won’t miss on it! Sneeuberg) during the months of February and March. • Donkerkloofkop & Apollo – Cederberg OUT along, then down the Kromrivierblack eagles Pass soaring to reach effortlessly the reception in the cobalt building blue and skies, almostThere always are a few speciesAnd on of Winterbach buck, predators, Peak you reptiles will see and the birds beautiful lurking queen proteasone in could find these trees in abundance growing in many parts of the A rock ratexceptional on sentry viewsduty alongof the surrounding the way to Apollomountains. Peak The kitchen uses only Cederberg, but these days they are much more scarce, although they can the freshest ingredients, providing their guests and hungry hikers and Information Guide to the Cederberg Places to stay This is the best and most restaurant. obvious place in pairs, catching thermals and never flapping their wings, makingabout, them but you are onlyabundance likely to during see a November handful of and these, December as most of them How to get there climbers excellent farm style cuisine, light meals and a selection of mouth- Kromrivier Cederberg Park:A Photo illustrated Hiking and the true masters of the sky. The Cederberg is a three to fourare hour either drive nocturnal from Cape orTown,Of very course depending shy in creatures. the months The of leopardAugust and is Cederberg’s September, you will alsostill find be seen growing near cliffs or on rocky outcrops at altitudes above NieuwBrew Craft Beer watering cakes, accompanied with delicious coffee. And of course, all and to stay if you want to exploreInformation the hiking and Guide climbing to featured Placesthe Cederberg into this stay And before you ask, yes, therehow are you snakes do it. –From all sorts Cape – Town, harmlesslargest take onesthe predator Cape–Namibia andthe is fairly(N7) famous road common, Namaqualandnorth but a sighting flowers inis bloom,very unlikely.which cover many 1000of the metres.low Kromrivier is home to the first microbrewery in the Cederberg – b r o c h u r e .T h e r e is e x c e le n t c a m p in g – e a c h s p a c io u s c a m p s it e h a s Kromrivier Cederberg Park:and venomous ones, but thetowards chances Citrusdal. of an encounter Drive a further are rare,Amongst 28 km but toward not the other Clanwilliam predatorslying to fields the you in will and also around find the wild Cederberg. cat, lynx, aardwolf Legend has it that in days gone by, cedar trees were chopped down and Nieuwbrew.any Established meal can be in 2013accompanied by two of by the their Nieuwoudt famous beer sisters, or wine. Wi Fi, its own private mini ablution block and dish washingto stay facility. if you wantThere tois exploreimpossible, the hiking so andalways climbing be alert.Algeria featured turn-off in this and take a right andhere. fox. Follow the gravel road past Algeria used for telephone poles along the road from Clanwilliam to Citrusdal, Melanie and Tania, NieuwBrew makes use of the finest ingredients This is the best and most obvious place Die Plaaswerf • Winterbach Peak – Cederberg also a range of 10 glamping, fully furnished walk-in tents,b ro c h u re T. hand e re sie x ce e la n tc aselection m p ni g – e a c h s p a c oi u sc a m p s tie h a s Forest Station (18 km) and up andUnless over you the are Uitkyk very Pass lucky, to the the upper best you will probably get is a sighting of but this has been disputed by some. The wood of the trees was also used and excellent quality Cederberg mountain water – ‘soetwater’ – as the Climate of newly built luxury chalets. They have a fantastic eatery, serving mouth- plateau towards Dwarsrivier. Soon you will pass the turn off to Driehoek to fashion furniture, some pieces of which can still be found here and NamaqualandersSituated call it. on Kromrivier is the picturesque Kromrivier Plaaswerf which NOW Wi Fi, its own private mini ablution block and dish washing facility. There is rock agama lizards doingThe press-ups Cederberg in hasthe asun semi-desert and the beautiful climate making Verreaux it extremely hot in watering meals and snacks and a selection of cold drinks, fine wines, and (13 km from Algeria). Continue for another 15 km to reach Dwarsrivier features the original farmhouse (Voorhuis) built in 1868 with a newly also a range of 10 glamping, fully furnished walk-in tents, and a selection black eagles soaring effortlesslysummer and in therather cobalt chilly blue in winter. skies, almostAnd although always itin gets mostthere. of its rainFortunately today the cedar tree is now protected and it is illegal to The range consists of six very different brews, from a refreshing ale to an excellent range of ice-cold craft beer, brewed right there on the farm. farm. Pass through and continue for just over 1 km to pass the Sanddrif restored thatch roof. Alongside is the Waenhuis which has also been of newly built luxury chalets. They have a fantastic eatery, serving mouth- pairs, catching thermalsand and snowfall never flapping in winter their it can wings, also rain making at times them during the summer.chop Having them down, or use any part of the tree for any purpose. a slightly richer English ale, Together, a Weiss thesebeer, facilitiesa wonderful provide pumpkin you with ale, everythinga you need And a farm stall which sells basic food stuffs, drinks, Cederberg artefacts Campsite turnoff. Carry on for a further 2 km to reach the turn off to Near the top of Tierkloof, below towering red pillars and walls renovated. watering meals and snacks and a selection of cold drinks, fine wines, and true masters of the sky. said that, the best time to explore the Cederberg is during theMountain summer fynbos covers much of the slopes of the Cederberg, where dark stout and a cherry blonde brew. And as good as the beer itself, are and gifty things. Remember, hiking and climbing in the Kromrivier Valley is Kromrivier Cederberg Park. Take the right fork and drive about 4.75 km to enjoy your wedding, team building event, conference or celebration. an excellent range of ice-cold craft beer, brewed right there on the farm. And before you ask, yes,months, there are bearing snakes in –mind all sorts that temperatures– harmless ones can climb deep oneinto canthe find30s protea, conebush, wild olive and restio veld among other the names of each beer and the design of the labels. There is not much free to guests staying there. To book call +27 27 482 2807 or bookings@ along, then down the Kromrivier Pass to reach the reception building and Geology And a farm stall which sells basic food stuffs, drinks, Cederberg artefacts and venomous ones, but thein the chances middle of of an the encounter day. The daysare rare, are long but andnot shade can almostspecies. always The endemic snow protea can also be found on the higher peaks better than feeling the ice cold bite of your chosen brew slipping down cederbergpark.com. In case the Kromrivier accommodation is full, here restaurant. The Cederberg mountain range was formed around 400 million years ago and gifty things. Remember, hiking and climbing in the Kromrivier Valley is impossible, so always be alert.be found amongst the beautiful and enchanting rock formations(particularly for youron Sneeuberg) during the months of February and March. your parched throat after a good day in the hills, accompanied by one of are some other popular alternatives. and is part of the Cape fold mountain series, with the rock comprising Die Slee Eatery free to guests staying there. To book call +27 27 482 2807 or bookings@ tea or lunch break. It is best to start very early on your hikes,And to on take Winterbach Peak you will see the beautiful queen proteas in the tasty treats on the menu. Sanddrif: Situated on Dwarsrivier Farm, Sanddrif campsite and chalets Places to stay of Table Mountain Sandstone which is on the whole of the very highestShadow dancing in the moon craters on Luna Peak Die Slee (Afrikaans for The Sleigh) got its name from the cedarwood Kromrivier Cederberg Park: advantage of the morningquality. shade and cooler temperatures.abundance during November and December With Melanie’s background of Food Science, specialising in brewing, are only about 8 km from the Kromrivier Valley.cederbergpark.com. They have good camping In case the Kromrivier accommodation is full, here sleigh runner on display at the eatery. What looks like an ordinary to stay if you want to explore the hiking and climbing featured in this During winter however snowfall is also possible over the Ofhigher course reaches, in the months of August and September, you will also find and Tania’s expertise in logistics management, NieuwBrew will ensure facilities with ablutions and very comfortableare newly some renovated other popular chalets. alternatives. The Cederberg is famous for its weird and wonderful rock formations, wooden beam is in fact a piece of 19th century Cederberg engineering – Sanddrif: b ro c h u rTe h. e sreix c e l nc at m p ni –eg a c hs p a co i u cs a m p stehi a s which can also lendthe a most special famous twist of to which your arehike. the Always Maltese takethe Cross famous protection and the Namaqualand Wolfberg Arch flowers in bloom, which cover many of the low you of the finest quality craft beer. There is also a farm stall that sells basic food stuffs, wood, Situated cold drinks on Dwarsrivier and Farm, Sanddrif campsite and chalets wooden sleighs were long used in the Cederberg as a means of transport, are only about 8 km from the Kromrivier Valley.Wi Fi, They its own have private good minicamping ablution block and dish washing facility. Thereagainst is the heatin and the the southern cold, no part matter of the range.what the However, weatherlying no looks matterfields like in where atand youaround walk the Cederberg. of course a range of excellent wine and beer. To book call +27 27 482 2825 also a range of 10 glamping, fully furnishedThis is the walk-in best and tents, most and obvious a selection place particularly along tracks that were impassable by ox-wagons. SHARPEND SHELL POSIWIRE QUICKDRAWfacilities with ablutions and very comfortable newly renovated chalets. the outset of youror climb hike. in the Cederberg you will see fantastic sculptured formations,

Western Cape or [email protected]. Situated about 15 km south east of Kromrivier, of newly built luxury chalets. They have a fantastic eatery, serving mouth- which will conjure up all sorts of shapes and images in your mind, from Fauna Serving for many years as a doorsill in the old Kromrivier shed, the Table Mountain FUSION AXE HALFDOME HNuwerusELMET Rest Camp: There is also a farm stall that sells basic foodwatering stuffs, meals wood, and cold snacks drinks and anda selection of cold drinks, fine wines, and hovering amphibious landing craft shapes to jellyfish music composers to The Cederberg, in general, is not well endowed with visible wildlife, Drakensberg sleigh runner now has its glory returned, being a display piece and the Southern Peninsula Southern Nuwerust is also a good option for camping,of etc.course They a rangehave a ofbig excellent spread- wine and beer.an excellent To book range call +27 of ice-cold 27 482 craft 2825 beer, brewed right there on the farm. dancing field mice. The mélange is endless, just go out and have a look. so don’t expect to see wildebeest sweeping majestically across the name of the eatery. able Mountain is undoubtedly one of the natural wonders of the world. It is a or [email protected]. Sunset glow on the formations around Murraysberg outhern Peninsula Classics is a LIGHTER. SOLOIST GLOVE CYBORGout C campsite,RA withMPO nice treesN and ablutions, and also some rustic And a farm stall which sells basic food stuffs, drinks, Cederberg artefacts The summit areas of Winterbach Peak, Apollo Peak and Luna Peak are landscape, but do expect to see troops of baboons lounging around the From modest beginnings, serving milkshakes and toasted sandwiches mountain that is endowed with a rich history and offers the explorer unsurpassed Nuwerus Rest Camp: The incomparable and unique rocks and walls of the Cederberg. The T collection of the most wonderful LIGHTER. Kromrivier farm is the oldest andchalets. one There of the is amost small shop for cold drinks and other basics and also and gifty things. Remember, hiking and climbing in the Kromrivier Valley is a veritable feast of the most outlandish, peculiar and remarkable rock mountains and at times coming down to the campsites to see if they can to passing motorcyclists, Die Slee is now a fully-fledged eatery, equipped Western Cape Rock adventures almost always accompanied by wide breathtakingS vistas. summit massif of Luna Peak towering above the hidden Luna Cave mountain adventures you will have FASTER. MISSIONSouthern BACKPACK Peninsula ROCLa lapaOCK with a huge C group-braaiARA area,BINER and aNuwerust pub with DSTVis also if a you good are Situatedoption into for about camping, 15free km to southetc. guests They east staying have of Kromrivier, there.a big spread- To book call +27 27 482 2807 or bookings@ formations of all shapes and sizes. ravage a cooler box or two. Table Mountain popular tourist destinations in the Cederberg. with a fine kitchen and generous seating indoors and outdoors, with This book describes some of the best walks, scrambles and moderate rock climbs Table Drakensbergcederbergpark.com. In case the Kromrivier accommodation is full, here the pleasure of experiencing on the FASTER. watching sporting events, etc. The book outcall campsite,+27 27 482 with 2813 nice or info@ trees and ablutions, and also some rustic There are a few species of buck, predators, reptiles and birds lurking Classics Bordering Truitjieskraal and other popular climbing A guide to Sport Climbing in the STRONGER. Cl Kromrivier farm is the oldest and one of the most are some other popular alternatives. about, but you are only likely to see a handful of these, as most of them exceptional views of the surrounding mountains. The kitchen uses only Mountain has to offer and takes you to the most remarkable andsouthern memorable Cape places. Peninsula – from SOLUTION HARNESS ATCcederbergexperience.co.za GUIDE chalets. There is a small shop for cold drinks and other basicsSelect and also

DISTANCESTRONGER. CARBON Z TREKKING POLES popular tourist destinations inareas, the Cederberg. this resort offers an ideal base for This climbers campsite is also on Dwarsrivier farm, about 6 km from the Sanddrif: are either nocturnal or very shy creatures. The leopard is Cederberg’s the freshest ingredients, providing their guests and hungry hikers and Scattered throughout the book are also mythical tales and many historical stories ssicsKliphuis: Select Western Cape, South Africa Constantia Nek allSelect the way down to Classics a a a lapa with a huge group-braai area, and a pub with DSTV if you are into “WhenDISTANCE I need them, CARBON I whip themZ TREKKING out of my packPOLES like a andCl hikers, while others can be kept busy and climbers excellent farm style cuisine, light meals and a selection of mouth- Select Bordering Truitjieskraal and other popular climbing Kromrivier farm is the oldest and one of the most are only about 8 km from the Kromrivier Valley. They have good camping largest predator and is fairly common, but a sighting is unlikely. Amongst Scrambling through boulders near the summit Riding Chariot Rock at the head of Eerstekloof on the building of the reservoirs, early visitors, climbing history,the faunavery tip and of Capeflora, Point.Van ssics reception office. It only has camping, but on very nice sites under huge Situated on Dwarsrivier Farm, Sanddrif campsite and chalets “Whenpair of Isamurai need them, swords. I whip I use them the out Distance of my packCarbon like Z a SHARPEND SHELL watching sporting events, etc. The book call +27 27 482 2813 or info@ areas, this resortA guide offers an to ideal baseentertained for climbers POwith a varietySIW of IREother activities. QU ICKDRAW facilities with ablutions and very comfortable newly renovated chalets. the other predators you will also find wild cat, lynx, aardwolf and fox. watering cakes, accompanied with delicious coffee. And of course, all and

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Hunks and the Devil and much more. It includes a selection of stunning trekkingpair of samurai poles on swords. most mountain I use the endeavorsDistanceA guide Carbon because Z to wAlks, scrAmbles trees with ablutions. Use the same shopcederbergexperience.co.za and booking details as Sanddrif. Kromrivier Wines “ Bordering Truitjieskraal and other popular climbing they are light, stiff, and packable. The bottom line and hikers, while others can be kept busy and This is situated about 23 km from Kromrivier. Also has good ThereRock is also climbing a farm stall that • Icesells basicclimbing food stuffs,Teatime wood, coldat Bakleikraaldrinks and Unless you are very lucky, the best you will probably get is a sighting of NieuwBrew Craft Beer any meal can be accompanied by their famous beer or wine.

Tony Lourens Whether you are a visitor to the beautiful Cape Peninsulahikes, seeking from short, a once-off gentle ambles, to trekking poles on most mountain endeavors because Mountain Adventures Driehoek: Kliphuis: Kromrivier Farm prides itself with a unique range of boutique wines. Enjoy theyis that are they light, simply stiff, andwork packable. really well The for mybottom needs. line “ FUSIentertainedON withAX a varietyE ofH otherALF activities.DOM E HELareas,MET this resort offers an ideal base for climbers of course a range of excellent wine and beer. To book call +27 27 482 2825 rock agama lizards doing press-ups in the sun and the beautiful Verreaux Kromrivier is home to the first microbrewery in the Cederberg – long, strenuous full day outings and And moderAte rock climbs camping with ablutions and a selection of different This campsite chalets, iswith also a onshop Dwarsrivier farm, about 6 km from the a glass of our delicate Shiraz next to the fire on a cold winter night or try classic experience on Table Mountain, a local whoA wants guide to explore to thetrad best thatclimbing is that they simply— BD workAthlete really Joe Grantwell for my needs. reception office. It only has camping,or [email protected]. but onTrekking very nice sites • Dayunder hikeshuge black eagles soaring effortlessly in the cobalt blue skies, almost always in Nieuwbrew. Established in 2013 by two of the Nieuwoudt sisters, everything between. It even has a Walks, Scrambles & ModerateFacilities Rock & Climbs Activities andthat hikers,sells basics, while wood others and can wine, be etc.kept To busy book and call +27 27 482 2828 or Climate Die Plaaswerf our crisp Chardonnay for a refreshing experience. Table Mountain has to offer and yearns to tick off some of the great classics, or — BD Athlete Joe Grant SOLOIST GLOVEAccommodationCYBO & camping RG CRAMPON trees with ablutions. Use the same Nuwerusshop and Rest booking Camp: details as Sanddrif. pairs, catching thermals and never flapping their wings, making them the Melanie and Tania, NieuwBrew makes use of the finest ingredients in thetwo-day Cape hike in Peninsulathe Cape of Good SEE THEM IN ACTION AT Facilities & Activities [email protected] with a variety of other activities. The Cederberg has a semi-desert climate making it extremely hot in Situated on Kromrivier is the picturesque Kromrivier Plaaswerf which

someone interested in the myths and legends and the rich history that surround this BLACKDIAMONDEQUIPMENT.COM WALKS, SCRAMBLES & MODERATE ROCK CLIMBS Eatery This is a CapeDriehoek: Nature campsite and is probably Nuwerust is also a good option for camping, etc. They have a big spread- true masters of the sky. and excellent quality Cederberg mountain water – ‘soetwater’ – as the Hope Reserve. There are also a SEE THEM IN ACTION AT • Wedding• &Kromrivier events venue vineyards• WeddingAlgeria & events Forest venue Station: This is situated about 23 km from Kromrivier. Also has good summer and rather chilly in winter. And although it gets most of its rain features the original farmhouse (Voorhuis) built in 1868 with a newly BLACKDIAMONDEQUIPMENT.COM Accommodation & camping out campsite, with nice trees and ablutions, and also some rustic Namaqualanders call it. unique and special mountain, this is a book that should grace your bookshelf. MISSION BACKPACK ROCLOCK CARARock climbing • Ice BINERcamping with ablutions and a selection of different chalets, with a shop And before you ask, yes, there are snakes – all sorts – harmless ones A guide to t R Ad CL i MB N g BLACKDIAMONDEQUIPMENT.CO.ZA • Nieuwbrew craft brewery A guide T Hiking number of exciting scrambles up • KromrivierTony vineyards Lourens • Climbing (Trad & Sport)• Nieuwbrew the craftbiggest brewery and busiest campsite in the main Cederberg area during the Situated about 15 km southand east snowfall of Kromrivier, in winter it can also rain at times during summer. Having Pienksewejaartjie (Syncarpa canescens) Sugarbush (Protea repens) restored thatch roof. Alongside is the Waenhuis which has also been

i N tHe C APe Pe NS u L A Eatery chalets. There is a small shop for cold drinks and other basics and also and venomous ones, but the chances of an encounter are rare, but not A guide to wAlks, scrAmbles • Mountain biking that sells basics, wood and wine, etc. To book Gavincall +27 27 Raubenheimer 482 2828 or A guide to SPoRt CLiMBiNg iN tHe Horse riding The range consists of six very different brews, from a refreshing ale to some of the more rocky areas and And moderAte rock climbs Tony Lourens renovated. Tony Lourens Hiking • Climbing (Trad & Sport) • Fishing Accommodation• holiday season. & camping It is situated Trekking • Day hikes about 18 km after the turn off from thea lapaN7, with a huge group-braai area, and a pub with DSTVsaid if that, you arethe into best time to explore the Cederberg is during the summer impossible, so always be alert. Disa Pool – 4 hr rounda slightly trip richer English ale, a Weiss beer, a wonderful pumpkin ale, a WeSteRN CAPe, Sout H AFR iCA • Swimming Mountain bikingFacilities & Activities Together, these facilities provide you with everything you need peaks, where sometimes a rope SOLUTION H• PicnicAR AreasN ESS ATCEatery GUIDE [email protected] Horse riding • Swimming • Picnic Areasand boasts lovely shaded sites with ablutions and great swimming. Itwatching is sporting events, etc. The book call +27 27 482months, 2813 or bearinginfo@ in mind that temperatures can climb deep into the 30s dark stout and a cherry blonde brew. And as good as theto beer enjoy itself, your are wedding, team building event, conference or celebration. may be necessary for protection. • • Algeria Forest Station: How to get there • Park Hiking Kromrivier however Fishing quite vineyards far from Kromrivier. To book call 021 483 1090 or gocederbergexperience.co.za to in the middle of the day. The days are long and shade can almost always Flora SHARPEND SHELL the biggest and busiest campsite in the main Cederberg area during the the names of each beer and the design of the labels. There is not much And includes some of the more o Mou N POSIWIRE QUICKDRAW Park at the Disa Pool parking – as for the Luna Peak Trail Horse riding•www.capenature.co.za Climbing (Trad & Sport) This is Kliphuis:a Cape Nature campsite and is probably be found amongst the beautiful and enchanting rock formations for your The Cederberg is named after the Clanwilliam cedar tree, and years ago one better than feeling the ice cold bite of your chosen brew slipping down • Wedding & holidayevents venue season. It is situated about 18 km after the turn off from the N7, right of the path, just before you enter Tweedekloof. Pass through Tweedekloof popular caves in the Kalk Bay reception Thisoffice. campsite It only is alsohas oncamping, Dwarsrivier but on farm,very nice about sitestea 6 or km underlunch from huge break.the It is best to start very early on your hikes, to take could find them in abundance growing in many parts of the Cederberg, but your parched throat after a good day in the hills, accompanied by one of FUSION AXE HALFDOME HEL•MET • Nieuwbrew craft brewery From the carpark, take the Apollo and Luna Peak path, and walk up through and carry on for a little while till you arrive at the Apollo and Luna Peak sign just mountains. Geology Swimming and boasts lovely shaded sites treeswith ablutionswith ablutions. and greatUse the swimming. same shop Itand is booking details as Sanddrif. today they are much more scarce, although they can still be seen growing the tasty treats on the menu. advantage of the morning shade and cooler temperatures. Die Trap to reach the contour path (15 min). Turn right and follow the path all before Derdekloof (1 hr). In addition, the book describes • however quite far from Kromrivier.Driehoek: To book call 021 483 1090 or go to near cliffs or on rocky outcrops at altitudes above 1000 metres. T The Cederberg mountain• Picnic AreasMountain range was biking formed around 400 million years ago During winter however snowfall is also possible over the higher reaches, With Melanie’s background of Food Science, specialising in brewing,

A the way along, through a gate, and past the Winterbach Peak path junction, some of the easy to moderate rock SOLOIST GLOVE CYBORG CRAMPON www.capenature.co.za camping with ablutions and a selection of different chalets, with a shop Riding boulders on the summit plateau and Tania’s expertise in logistics management, NieuwBrewContinue will ensure straight along the contour path for another 40 minutes to reach i N A dVeN T uReS and is part of the Cape fold mountain series, with the rock comprising This is situated about 23 km from Kromrivier. Also has good Legend has it that in days gone by, cedar trees were chopped down and climbs found along this part of the which can also lend a special twist to your hike. Always take protection which comes down Eerstekloof. Carry on with the path, along the slopes of the path coming up along the Disa Pool kloof. Take a right here to arrive at Disa of Table Mountain Sandstone• which Fishing is on the whole of the verythat highestsells basics, wood and wine, etc. To book call +27 27 482 2828 or used for telephone poles along the road from Clanwilliam to Citrusdal, you of the finest quality craft beer. against the heat and the cold, no matter what the weather looks like at Murraysberg standing high up on your left, to reach an old Leopard Trap on the Table Mountain Chain, which are MISSION BACKPACK ROCLOCKquality. CARABINER [email protected] Climate but this has been disputed by some. The wood of the trees was also used Pool in a few minutes. ideal if you are new to the climbing the outset of your hike. The Cederberg is famous for its weird and wonderful rockAlgeria formations, Forest Station: The Cederberg has a semi-desert climate making it extremely hot in to fashion furniture, some pieces of which can still be found here and On your return, follow the pathDie along Slee the Eatery river. That way you can swim and game and looking for climbs to the biggest and busiest campsite in the main Cederberg area during the summer and rather chilly in winter. And although it gets most of its rain there. Fortunately today the cedar tree is now protected and it is illegal cool off in the pools along the way, as it is bound to be hotter than earlier in SOLUTION HARNESS ATC GtheUIDE most famous of which are the Maltese Cross and the Wolfberg Arch Die Slee (Afrikaans for The Sleigh) got its name from the cedarwood LIVE. sharpen your trad experience. +27 (27) 482 2807 [email protected] holiday season. It is situated about 18 km after the turn off from the N7, and snowfall in winter it can also rain at times during summer. Having to chop them down, or use any part of the tree for any purpose. in the southern part of the range. However, no matter where you walk the day. sleigh runner on display at the eatery. What looks like an ordinary Besides the vast selection of and boasts lovely shaded sitesThis with is a ablutionsCape Nature and campsite great swimming. and is probably It is said that, the best time to explore the Cederberg is during the summer Mountain fynbos covers much of the slopes of the Cederberg, where SHAR+27 (27)PE 482 2807ND [email protected] POSIWIREor climb QU in the CederbergICKD youRAW will see fantastic sculptured formations, wooden beam is in fact a piece of 19th century Cederberg engineering –

hikes, scrambles and climbs, www.cederbergpark.com+27 (27) 482 2807 [email protected] avin Raubenheimer however quite far from Kromrivier. To book call 021 483 1090 or go to months, bearing in mind that temperatures can climb deep into the 30s one can find protea, conebush, wild olive and restio veld among other Tony Lourens www.cederbergpark.com which will conjure up all sorts of shapes and images in your mind, from wooden sleighs were long used in the Cederberg as a means of transport, CLIMB. Southern Peninsula Classics is also www.capenature.co.za in the middle of the day. The days are long and shade can almost always species. The endemic snow protea can also be found on the higher peaks FUSION kromriviercederbergpark AXE H kromriviercederbergparkALFDOME HELhoveringMET amphibious landing craft shapes to jellyfish music composers to particularly along tracks that were impassable by ox-wagons.

Tony Lourens a treasure trove of tales, facts and be found amongst the beautiful and enchanting rock formationsTeatime for your on the river, (particularlyon the way onto Sneeuberg)Bakleikraal during the months of February and March. Tony Lourens was born on the foothills of Table Mountain. He Tony Lourens historical anecdotes, that will keep www.cederbergpark.comdancing field mice. The mélange is endless, just go out and have a look. tea or lunch break. It is best to start very early on your hikes, to take And on Winterbach Peak you will see the beautiful queen proteas in Serving for many years as a doorsill in the old Kromrivier shed, the ©Tony Lourens – all text, images and maps • Flora sleigh runner now has its glory returned, being a display piece and the is passionate about mountains and overyou the fascinated past 40 years from haspage to page. T No part of this guide may be reproduced,. stored in a kromriviercederbergparkThena summit areas of Winterbach Peak, Apollo Peak and Luna Peak are advantage of the morning shade and cooler temperatures. abundance during November and December REPEAT. ony Lourens ©Tony Lourens – all text, images and mapsau name of the eatery. climbed and hiked in many parts of the world.Whether He you has are written a visitor to the ©Tony Lourens – allretrieval text, images system, orand transmitted mapsNo inpart any of thisform guide or bymay any be reproduced, stored in a retrievalF a veritable feast of the most outlandish, peculiar and remarkable rock During winter however snowfall is also possible over the higher reaches, Of course in the months of August and September, you will also find No part of this guide may means be reproduced, of photocopying, stored in electronic, a or mechanical . • beautiful Cape Peninsula seeking system, or transmitted in any form or by any smeans of formations of all shapes and sizes. which can also lend a special twist to your hike. Always take protection the famous Namaqualand flowers in bloom, which cover many of the low From modest beginnings, serving milkshakes and toasted sandwiches countless articles and papers on climbing and mountain retrieval system, or transmittedrecording in or any otherwise. form or by any photocopying, electronic, or mechanical recordingie or otherwise. to passing motorcyclists, Die Slee is now a fully-fledged eatery, equipped a once-off classic experience, a means of photocopying, electronic, or mechanical r against the heat and the cold, no matter what the weather looks like at lying fields in and around the Cederberg. literature and has published several guides and instructional Sources o with a fine kitchen and generous seating indoors and outdoors, with local who wants to explore the best recording or otherwise. Sources t the outset of your hike. www.capenature.co.za, www.cederbergpark.comwww.capenature.co.za, www.cederbergpark.comS exceptional views of the surrounding mountains. The kitchen uses only climbing books. He is also the editor of SA Mountain Sport, that the Southern Peninsula has to es lora Sources www.samountain.co.za/bluemountain9 780620 918381 • r F Bluewww.samountain.co.za/bluemountain Mountain . tu a & the freshest ingredients, providing their guests and hungry hikers and BlackDiamondEquipmen.comBlackDiamondEquipment.com a n www.capenature.co.za, www.cederbergpark.com y Blue Mountain South Africa’s only dedicated climbing magazine.offer, or someone simply interested e u F a www.samountain.co.za/bluemountain r climbers excellent farm style cuisine, light meals and a selection of mouth- l F Publishers in the tales and rich tapestry that a • o Publishers s t watering cakes, accompanied with delicious coffee. And of course, all and ic d

surrounds this unique and special r s n i o any meal can be accompanied by their famous beer or wine. t e

peninsula at the tip of Africa, this is s g H Blue Mountain i e The sweeping views from the summit of Donkerkloofkop. The pointy summit of Sneeuberg (the highest peak in the Cederberg), on the right, with the unmistakable square-topped Tafelberg further to the right. Blue Mountain H L Bluea book that Mountain should not be missed. Die Plaaswerf & 9 7 8 0 6 2 0 9 1 8 3 9 8 History Crystal clear waters on the Disa Pool trail Publishers Blue Mountain Publishers Publishers BD Athlete Joe Grant | Southern Utah Andy Earl s www.rammountain.co.za Situated on Kromrivier is the picturesque Kromrivier Plaaswerf which h

re tu ra t Legends p lite b ublis tain New edition Publishers h un s New Edition e rs of mo lu r e BD Athlete Joe Grant | Southern Utah Andy Earl y 45 extra e m sH pic tales features the original farmhouse (Voorhuis) built in 1868 with a newly i over 1350 oun ubl routes tAin P E

M routes restored thatch roof. Alongside is the Waenhuis which has also been

F18_BD_print_TrailRunner_NOV_8x10.625.indd 1 9/5/18 1:56 PM renovated. Cederberg Pincushion (Leucospermum spathulatum) near summit F18_BD_print_TrailRunner_NOV_8x10.625.indd 1 9/5/18 1:56 PM to enjoy your Together, wedding, these team facilitiesbuilding event,provide conference you with oreverything celebration. you need

Paarl Outside Cover 7/6/06 4:31 PM Page 1 The beautiful and serene Disa Pool – perfect on a hot day

SPITZKOPPE and PONTOKS – Namibia A Climber’s Paradise Table Mountain Tassel Heath (Erica coccinea) near summit area Paarl Rocks MAPGUIDE Information booklet Kromrivier Cave, seen from the Disa Pool path Spitzkoppe A Hiker’s Companion Facts • History ROOIBERG Lion’s Head 670 • Legends metres A Climbers Guide Southern Cederberg Tony Lourens and Pontoks • By Stewart & Scott Noy A Climber’s Guide The Circular Route & Non Circular Route to the summit Namibia Lion’s Head Lion’s Head Cape Town Lion’s Head, which is part of the Table Mountain Na onal Park, is arguably • South Africa the most summi ed peak in the whole of South Africa and it’s not hard Advert to see why. A Climber’s Paradise Walks to the summit She is shapely and en cing in every way and holds the enviable posi on History • Geography of being held in a motherly embrace on the front façade of Cape Town’s famous Table Mountain, overlooking the city from a lo y se ng. Sculptured rock formations near the summit of Winterbach Peak, Flora • Fauna Taking only about an hour from the car to her spacious summit at 670 The beautiful rocky scenery in Tierkloof metres above sea level, she off ers stupendous 360 degree views over so typical of the Cederberg Eckhardt Haber the whole of the city and also the Atlan c Seaboard, Twelve Apostles and the distant peaks of the Ho entots Holland, Jonkers Hoek, Du Toit’s 1 Kloof, Winterhoek and Cederberg mountains which stand guard over the district of greater Cape Town. Gold on Lion’s Head On just about any day, come rain or sun you will fi nd groups of people Spurred on by the Witwatersrand gold making their way up to the top of this ever-popular summit. Some you fi elds, the Lion’s Head (Cape Town) Gold will see in the early hours of the morning taking in some fresh dawn Mining Company was formed in 1886 to con nue prospec ng for gold Including exercise, iPod plugged into ears as they jog briskly up, and others you will on Lion’s Head. Earlier, there had been various discoveries that led to see in the late a ernoon taking the dog for a stroll through the silver tree the belief that gold may indeed be found beneath her slopes. A sha , forests. But on warm summer evenings this is an ou 40m deep, was sunk and a reef about 5m thick was discovered. From Aussenkehr beat. Many nature lovers and people who just like to see the spectacular here a substan al quan ty of ore was mined, brought to the surface views from the summit beacon, make their way up to the ng topthat armed is hard with to and sent off to England for proper examina on. Unfortunately for a rucksack fi lled with tasty snacks and a fl ask of tea or coff ee or even a the mining company, proper results were never obtained and the by lebo of bubbly to toast to the magnifi cence of the situa on and, indeed, mine eventually fell into disrepair. The sha remained untouched the occasion. and exposed for many years and, in 1951, a fi reman narrowly missed Tony Lourens A very popular and really excep onal trip to make is the Full Moon Walk being killed when he nearly fell down the sha while fi gh ng a fi re on Tony Lourens up Lion’s Head. This, as is quite obvious, takes place on an evening when the slopes of Lion’s Head. A er this, the owners of the land had theDescending the upper reaches of Tierkloof

Blue Mountain Publishers the moon is at its fullest and with, hopefully, a clear sky. Droves of locals sha fi lled in to avoid any further possibili es of an accident and, in and visitors alike tote their champagne and snacks up the circular walk to doing so, buried the secrets of the mine forever. A depression can s ll dine in the last rays of the se ng sun, drink in the stunning 360 degree be seen today where the sha was sunk over 100 years ago. panoramic view and watch the rising orb of the full moon in an ambience Blue Mountain that is simply unparalleled. Special care should be taken however on Last Lion on Lion’s Head the descent, as things look very diff erent at night and par cularly with Wild lions have not been seen since 1802 since the last lion of a once- Publishers champagne bubbles bouncing around your head. A Blue Mountain thriving prides was shot. Leopards followed the same route in the A Blue Mountain Lion’s Head is also very popular for paragliding. On a balmy day, when 1820s. Smaller felines managed to escape the same demise such as Publication the warm air-thermals are working, you can see as many as 20 colourful the small lynx-type caracal, and the extremely rare African wild cat. A Photo illustrated Walking and parasails gliding through the skies to eventually land at La Med on the Publication Information Guide to Lion’s Head coastline. There are several launch spots, depending on the pilot’s The Noon Gun experience. You can also hook up with one of the Cape’s paragliding A sea of co on wool cloud sweeps around Lion’s Head as it descends on the city of Cape Town. The Noon Gun is as much a part of Cape Town as the cableway. But

e ur companies for a tandem jump. t ra how did the Noon Gun come about and when did they start fi ring this e pu n lit blisher ountai BL s of m S UE ER M SH OUNTAIN PUBLI ‘ me cannon’? In 1833 it was decided to provide ships in Table Bay Signal Hill Geology ‘An easy day for the ladies’. This photo, taken in the very early with a  me signal by which they could set their chronometers. This Lion’s Head is 670 metres high and is made up of diff Signal Hill is also a breathtaking place to visit. Accessible by car, it is 1900s, shows a group on the lower set of chains. This is part was fi rst a signal-fl are fi red from the Observatory at a certain hour The bo om layer, which underlies most of Cape Town and spreads as far a popular place for couples, as there are many places to be found on of the a er dark. Later on a cannon was fi red at 6 am and at 9 pm from up as Malmsbury, is the Malmesbury Shale Beds. This erent dark layers grey mudstoneof stone. Non-Circular route which includes the rock band directly the grassy verges to spread your picnic blanket and enjoy a roman c Interes ng History below the present day chain sec on. Photo: T.D. RAVENSCROFT the Imhoff Ba ery in front of the Castle. These cannons were later was laid down as far back as 540 million years ago. Good examples of this sundowner, while taking in the superb vistas of the coastal suburbs and Although dwarfed by the imposing and domina ng form of Table Courtesy Western Cape Archives and Records Service. Ref # J9631. moved to the Castle itself, then in 1902 they were moved to the Lion can be seeing along the Sea Point coast far below Lion’s Head. trendy coast-line, featuring the wo Mountain, Lion’s Head played an important role to early seafarers and Ba ery on Signal Hill, where they are to be found today. Triggered beaches spread along the edgerld-famous of the dazzling Cli on Atlan and Camps c Ocean. Bay On top of that, sits the harder and coarse-grained Granite intrusion, has an interes ng history. electronically b which is visible as huge exposed slabs on the north west side of the peak. Climbing the fi nal ladder on the summit ridge near the summit. y the South African Astronomical Observatory, the An early legend has it that some of the fi rst Portuguese navigators ceremony can be observed by the public from 11.30 am on the days Capping this is a very thick layer of Table Mountain Sandstone, which climbed the sides of Lion’s Head and, instead of erec ng a stone cross it is fi red. This is one of the oldest tradi ons in Cape Town and the makes up almost the en re rocky cone of the top of Lion’s Head. on the summit as was their usual custom, they hacked two large cross- cannons used are amongst the oldest working cannons in the world. An interes ng observa on, is the compara vely narrow band of shaped fi ssures into a rock face near the summit. Although the marks can The familiar boom of the Noon Gun can be heard echoing through rock below the hard quartzi c sandstone cone called the Graafwater 2 s ll be seen today, most people are scep cal about its origin, believing the Mother City at exactly midday every day, except Sundays and Forma on. This so mudstone layer gets to about 25m to 60m thick in that the marks were formed naturally. public holidays. places and a good example of this can be seen alongside the path a er The fi rst recorded ascent by a Western woman was in 1682 by the ABSEIL about 20 to 30 minutes from the start of the walk. wife of Ryklof van Goens who was the Governor General of the Indies at the  me. She climbed it in the company of Governor Simon van der Stel AFRICA How did Lion’s Head and Signal Hill get their names? and, to commemorate the event, a two-metre-high brick pyramid was If you look at Lion’s Head and Signal Hill (Lion’s Rump) from the far side of the erected, but this has long since disappeared. World’s original city centre, you will see that they bear a dis nct resemblance to a lion lying In 1673 it was decided that a watch should be sta oned on the top of 12 O’Clock midday and the Noon Gun goes off with a roar. down. This is what essen ally gives this unique mountain its name, but Lion’s Lion’s Head. Two or three men would man this watch sta on and warn highest Head was not always known by this name. Table Mountain - step offcommercial the top of 1000m abseil their comrades down at the Castle of any approaching ships. This they +27 21 424 4760 In 1620 Lion’s Head was named The Sugarloaf by the English and Signal would do by fi ring a small cannon once for every ship spo ed. In the early www.abseilafrica.co.za Hill they called James’ Mount. During the eighteenth century a hut was ere using Table Bay almost exclusively, they became aware of the fact that on Kloof Nek, which was then known as Vlaggeman’s Kloof (fl agman’s when period the English were forcted the signallers. The hut stood Conserve. Explore. Experience. the Dutch intended to occupy Table Bay the following year. In a bid to ravine). It later became the Strangers Inn and then the Kloof Temperance forestall this ac on, two high-ranking English Naval Offi cers, Humphrey Hotel, but has long since been demolished. Fitzherbert and Andrew Shillinge, issued a proclama on on 3 July, 1620 When the Bri sh took over the Cape in 1806, they decided to use annexing Table Bay in the name of King James I, sta ng ‘. . . and for a Signal Hill, rather than Lion’s Head, as their lookout sta on. In 1815 an memorial herea er we have made a heap of stones on a hill lying west- intermediate signalling sta on was built on Signal Hill and it was also southwest from the road in the said bay, and call it by the name “King then decided that the preferred form of signalling would no longer be James His Mount”.’ This was on what we today call Signal Hill. This was cannon fi re, but Captain Marrya ’s Code of Signals. This consisted of a really a desperate last a empt to keep the Dutch at bay. The annexa on series of fl ags of various shapes, accompanied by a varying number of was never confi rmed and subsequently the Dutch did take control of balls hoisted to the top of a fl agstaff , deno ng the type of ship and its Table Bay and the Cape. origin. Tel: 021 483 0190RESERVATIONS: (7h30 - 16h30) Pensioner rate - 30% T&C apply. The names Sugarloaf and James’ Mount never stuck, however, and the Dutch called them Leeuwen Kop (Lion’s Head) and Leeuwen Staart (Lion’s Tail), which later became Signal Hill.

View from the summit of Lion’s Head The country’s premiere camping,Xtreme Sports hiking and adventure pursuit specialist

Shop A03, Cape Quarter, 27 Somerset Road, Cape Town Simonsberg Tel: 021 418 4511 Du Toit’s Kloof [email protected] Mountains Jonkershoek Cable sta on home of the best guidebooks in AfricATwins Ho entots Holland Devil’s Peak Silverstream Bu ress © Blue Mountain Publishers. Helderberg Pla eklip Gorge this guide may be reproduced, stored in a Blue ountain retrieval system, or transmitted in any No partform ofor by any means of photocopying, electronic, or The Saddle mechanical recording or otherwise. Kloof Bu ress www.samountainsport.co.za/bluemountain Porcupine Bu ress

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