HE vi sit has of the great Roosevelt , of course , been an event of exceptional interest for the small country of Hol

land . Not only because he is the late and probably the future ? ) head of the most powerful em ocracy in the —a r world , fact in itself of ve y reat significance to Her ’ Majesty Queen Wilhelmina s litt e kingdom , wrested from — the sea but owing to et another consideration which somewhat heightened our excitement . or does not this ex resident of one o the United States , whose fame has already made him the central ’ or figures of the present day in the world s history , more less belong to ? the family in Holland He who , according to President Taft , is the most eminent citizen of the nation of the New World , is, in reality, our TE!g E own distant cousin rDeYatOF D LFT, and it was this very relationship , honoured thou h we felt by it , that caused us to be somewhat nervously apprehensive 0 this yet so welcome exalted visit . E

E l d aresa you have heard the story of the ugly duckling . It just crossed : ac my mind , the old family of ducks at the pool had , some centuries ago , ’ - — owned a pure bred aunt who , unwittingly , had hatched not a swan s ’ — fl d li n but far worse a condor s egg . And the little e g instead of fol lowing t he waddling steps of the duck-family along the utch banks and meadows and then liding down into the s—treams and canals , wher—ein we are wont to tranquil y swim away our lives, instead of this, the self willed

' 4 as little thing had flown far awa across the wide seas , to alight a mighty condor i n unknown regions . t first there must have been a fearful chorus as of anxious quacking in the old conservative nest , but , often happens , ’ the ducks sorrow would slowly wear off, and be almost for otten , when : all at once tidings came a young Condor, true offspring of t e old Dutch one , Condor Teddy , whose mighty wings have spread over such a large portion of the New World , was really expected to pay his respects to the ' ne old nest in our well watered Holland , and can ima what noise and THE NllyED quacking this caused among D lG oI u DUT DUCKS . E — to E For to turn from my metaphor more or less ambiguous ourselves , — to sober reality there was another side to this case . x A u ond so as ou erh a E f , we are by no means conservative y p s imagine

and , truly, we are certainly not ducks , nor, metaphorically spe ing , geese e ither for that matter, however much water there may be in our lowlying -oi - country . As a matter fact we are , even yet , an enterprising little nation . And we are by nature so familiar with the sea that we have never consi wh dered it a limitation to our adventures . This is the reason SO MANY E E E OVER E DUTCHM N HAV CROSS D TO AM RICA , an that nearly

every family has some relative or other among you out yonder . But we are t I sometimes rather doubtful what o make of those relatives . need not tell f o . you that we are a dignified nation , very old , illustrious extraction That - I S extraction , that glorious family history a precious possession of ours , only it i s sometimes painful for us to observe h ow foreigners who come

to visit our country , are chiefly attracted by the old associations of the e as past , and sp ak with and about us in the past tense , as if, a matter of res en t course , there can be no question about our p ; as if for foreign coun - - tries , only Dutch great great rand parents exist , to whose traditions and artistic or quaint antique in eri tances we ourselves may act as mere - t . us museum at endants Really this is not only rather objectionable for , the

young generation , but it is slighting the present race . However, I shall have

a word or two to say about this later on . Now 1 was going to speak about E our relations in America . E — feeli n See here and , indeed , it is not that I want to hurt your s in — revenge for the above -mentioned disregard but we Dutch folk have een

rather given to indulging in little jokes , when it has occasionally been said f h as o some one or other that he gone to America . Now far be it from me to generalize this popular form of witt icism ;this would be slandering my For w as t countrymen among you . it , and still is , of en the most energetic - : men and women who seek new homes in the New World . But I repeat it i we are, there is no denying the fact , a dignif ed nation , not free from

certain bourgeois notions anent di nity which is chiefly based on rosperi ty . That we are STEINREICHE HOgLANDER enormously rich Iputc hm en) seventeent has , indeed , ever since our golden century , also formed part of our reputation , which , I daresay, is held in high regard by the American a of Railway Companies for inst nce, in which a large portion our national 3 3 3 5 551 i sa few wealth has been invested . And now think I may y that there are a examples (which have become classical through popular songs) of Dutch so n men emigrating to America who , by doing, have not exactly give - s obvious proof of having raised their family traditions in a moneta ense. This was sufficient reason for their relatives to keep dark about the journey for the time being , meanwhile harbouring eager anticipations of the won d erful ossi bl l career y to follow out yonder, resulting in a fabulouslylibera testament in avour of the so rrowing relations in the good old fat erland . For in this respect every less fortunate shoemaker or baker who has bravely started on the great journey , raises the most wonderful ideas in the minds - - of the faithful circle of the stay at home nephews and nieces . E

LOCK NEAR VREESWIJ K. see s E They the adventurer there , performing successively the variou - - s n offices of shoe black , news boy, cowboy and ever other de pised oce l ation their fertile imaginations can supply . Fina y , long forgotten and out - to ost to Dutch eyes , he blossoms into a multi millionaire , unexpectedly THE E E E come down as AM RICANIS D WOND R , in his own airship , from the Dutch clouds , in a small Dutch village, with its wooden houses painted green behind little gardens in which the trees have been quaintly cut into the ani m als - semblance of amidst red white and blue windmills , and little draw bridges across the ditches . He is stared at by peasants in wide knicker h m outh and ockers and wooden shoes , long clay churchwardens in their s, - pretty peasant women with their fair corkscrew curls, lace caps with gold - - th e E ear plates , the many coloured kerchiefs pinned across shoulders. E Albeit we may hold certain misgivings as to whether our grown grand 6 m our cousin , out yonder, will still fit in the stately old Dutch fra e of famil E roup , for are there not seated amongst them some in POWD R D ! AN D GS MOBCAPS , painted by or , and all the rest in the stiff dignity of long black-cloth coats or in silk fallin down in beav folds ? E What will e be like ? How will he comport himself ? Like a sharp - - r beaked , broad winged , rough feathered condor, with ho rible talons , - amidst the modest and self reliant ducks , quietly sitting on the tradition al old Dutch nest ? Would his modern -world tastes find space enough there ?

A DUTCH MEADOW WITH CATTLE . how how a And , could we receive him fittingly and in accord nce with his, or our ? , more particularly, own dignity E ou res ectful E I assure y , it was with admiration ;with frank , undisguised our atri arch a satisfaction to p feelings , and at the same time a bashful t o f our — curiosi y, that the visit mighty distant cousin Tedd of Delft ex

s of was . do pre ident the New World , looked forward to in olland Yet not THE EE E- E misunderstand me . We , too, DUTCH CH S MAK RS , are,

i s . believe me, even now. still men , and what more, men of our times i ctures ar are to The export and the absurd picture postc ds, which sold you by hun reds and thousands have perhaps given you th e impression 7 of that we are , properly speaking , a sort anachronistic anecdote in old S fashioned Marken hats , short knickerbockers and short kirts , dancing our own national dances in wooden shoes in the squares of on and . That we still live in dwellings raised piles , with seven teenth - bl az i n century Dutch interiors , having leaded window panes and - logs in richly carved chimney corners , the brass chandeliers suspende fr om the raftered ceilin s ; luxurious cupboards and cleverly carved cabi on old nets , which the lue Delft ware makes such a fine show , while the - rett onl States Bible lies open on a stand , and represents p well our S E-TOWE piritual food . That we still travel along our canals in H RS

- WN S B S D O S . . NEAR TIEL. AILING ARGE GOING TREAM (WAAL AND RHINE) BARGES and in stage- coaches along the dykes ;that the carrier-pigeons are our tele raph boys . E g - E But real y however alluring this picture , of old Holland may seem to : ou , it does in point of fact not correspond with the reality Our beautiful , interesting country , our earnest and energetic nation keep pace with the - times , even if we do not altogether relinquish time honoured traditions .

Our trade flourishes again ; our shipping has sought new tracks , our science in many respects counts in the world ; some of the products of our i n ’ d ustri es are Holland s monopolies in the international markets ; our rich c olonies are the envy of powerful nations ; our agriculture has been de velo ed in some districts into model -gardens for the whole of Europe ; the utch cattle- breeding may serve as an example far beyond our r our frontie s ; painting, our literature are i n a period of renewed flores cense ; our musicians , our singers have established their reputation also but our old o in y our country , it is especially culture, which of yore s 8 often took the lead , that still holds its foremost place in the rapid vortex of modern action that i s stirring the world . Moreover we have not sacri of our to s - r ficed all the traditions nationality re ent da modernism . Fo THE HYSTO Y F without bein chauvinistic , we are still prou of R O OUR

SMALL COU TRY, which imposes many obligations of a classical nature on the present race . E ou not too E However, y must take me seriously in my little jokes , and u - - on no account be led into false conclusions . We are fully p to date as

ON TH E ISLAND OF MARKEN . regards the history of these wonderfully interesting times that again and a ain draws our attention to America above all countries . We have follow so your, in many respects , glorious history faithfully and with the our lan ua e deepest interest . We have read your books in y g g , and had them

ow n . translated into our Our newspapers , which have the very latest news , of E are among the best , and most trustworthy urope , keepin us right i abreast of everythi n of importan ce that occurs in your country . e prof t a by it , learn day by y from your wonderful technical progress , from the histo of your internal political economy . And this is why Mr . Roosevelt was am i li ar as to us , long before his arrival , a hero , in the modern and the romantic sense of the word ; why we knew him as the MAN OF THE TEN C E as OMMANDM NTS , the diligent , powerful ruler, who , disliking 9 - - d offici aldom old fashioned grooves and narrow minde , had the courag e to u an e act imp lsively and like ordinary man . ev n at a time when he filled h the highest office in the state . And now, there is no ot er American living so who has appealed to us through his deeds , his words , which were con ve ed tele ra and y to us by g h , by his writings , which we read here and i which have been trans ated nto Dutch ; as the man whom we honour, r as not only as the representative of the Ame ican nation , but the symbol of the modern movement of these stirring times . E ’ E This knowledge of Roosevelt s personality did not serve to lessen our

rvousness . so sa in giving him a fitting reception Had we , to y, room r not enough in our modest , dignified , little count y for this man who had of only governed a considerable part the world , but had , from his youth , E E B X E as AS A WR STL R AND O R , a reckless horseman and mighty d so e e to hunter before the Lor , tr mendously exercis d his body the greater refreshment of his mind ? E

E Which of our rulers could hold his own with him , if it should occur to our distant cousin to have a bout with his fi sts in the morning ? What kind of ferocious beasts could we offer him to demonstrate his marksmanship , we who can only allow ourselves the luxury of two lions : the Dutch ones i n our coat of arms ? Was not one of the popular nicknames of our eagerly ’ : EAT EM - w h o expected guest UP JACK , of him , the former police czar , for a : al his love of nightly dventures , was sometimes called Haroun Roose ? : - t velt How would he arrive in his peaceful walkin spec acles , his shoot ing- spectacles or his wrestling-spectacles tied firmgy round his head ? And - would he , the late assistant secretary of the American navy perhaps insist on going for a sail with our whole fleet ? People were very anxious to know how all this would turnout . And so the Dutch newspapers did their s best to inform them as fully as pos ible , the moment Colonel Roosevelt - our . of r should approach frontier On the eve the great day , leading a ticles of welcome appeared in all papers . And it was owing to the great interest of the Dutch public that l was requested by my editor to go and meet ’ him in Bel ium s capital , and from there participate in his entry into Holland . E Fg E ou E TH . e RST HANDSHAK Allow me to tell y , that Brussels , wher I of - e had the honour shaking hands with ex president Roosevelt , is no mor

d h i s . situate in Holland , t an Holland in Belgium This remark seems justi s fied , inasmuch as it is a fact that people abroad sometime have such f funny ideas of the geographical situation o Holland . E E Provided with a kind letter of in—troduction fro—m the American Minister at the Court of Queen Wilhelmina Mr. Beaupré I had called that after ’ at l Art noon the American Legation in the Avenue de , and been admitted to the unofficial citizen , who was , in those days , bein received with princel honours at all the European courts . But though was possessed s be of all t e nece sary credentials, my endeavour to the first Dutch jour ali st of f as n to wait upon the representat ve the United States , was ba fled ” i “ - th n it were by force majeure . For the ante room of e splendid Legatio 1 0 w r was already thron ed ith such a seething crowd of excited admire s, g to all competing for t e historical handshake that , in order safeguard the E E - staircase from B ING STORM D , the Legation secretaries were compelled to form a cordon that had perforce to yield , one stair after another, to of enerals e of the advance the surging crowd of ministers , , memb rs the - ur0 eani sed litt le a an corps diplomatique , of pig tailed Chinamen and p j p ese of , marquises , earls , baronesses , courtiers and the members the Ame é té of rican colony held so closely together in such a p democratic unity ,

MARKEN . INTERIOR. ’ off that the orchids were snapped in the ladies corsages , the velvet mantles e r o n a were irretrievably crushed , the aigrett s c umpled the hats , and many f lad suf ering from a racking headache caused by the heat , could scarcely ” to for of : r fin room take breath a scream ,, Laissez moi donc , messieu s l E E Such an outburst of old -world admiratio n was too much even for the - dam of the United States . The crowd broke through , stormed up the n balustraded staircase, over the Persian ca ets , knockin down the s lendi e s was not osed s c xotic plant , and even held in c eck b the c door adin ’ sa be s a m nt s res to the lon , where Roosevelt , who had g for ju t ome was u his and a few c os es s l nching with host h en gu t . 1 1 ’ E Notwithstanding this , the upper ten forced their way into the minister s private apartments hardly checked , in their headlong course , by the table

Spread with viands , and the chairs on which the company sat . E

E Theodore Roosevelt was surrounded in no time and in rapt attention , the assemblage of ladies and gentlemen followed every mouthful , while hi s he quietly went on with his lunch , masticating his food with strikin ly m g s large, glittering teeth , with no other ovement in his face than that of gi aws . - E Suddenly from the aviaries , situated at the end of these reception rooms , h arm oni ous E where birds of variegated pluma e , mingled y in their astern g éecorated tinted colourin S , with the state y setting of the room , in Louis X VI sh ri l style , cries of alarm were heard , a sound of the frightened beat ing of wings against the gilded bars , and such a wild state of anic arose E that , it is to be feared , the nerves of these delicate DAIN Y LITTL RICE- BIRDS and of the dandy parroquets will never recover from the fri ht of all the tumult . E

nd eed . E E , when I think of it again , my knees positively quake - E A moment after this , the ex president has succeeded , by a clever stra te i c g movement , in securing a position in the suite of rooms, whereby the hundreds of delighted people were enabled to file past him . My letter trem bli n of introduction firmly clasped in my left hand , somewhat from l excitement , I softly repeated to myself some of the phrases wis ed to put in my hort peech of respect and national relationship , until gradu S S ' m self w ithi n of ally drawing nearer, I presently found y the radius the ’ - president s glittering eye glasses , and under the spell of his extremely E powerful personality .

E I heard m self stammer aloud , I felt my hand seized , and was in the middle of the yi rst when it w as as if a i stol -Shot had ” struck me in the chest . Roosevelt had addressed me : INEI I he had so called out in a stentorian voice , so thunderous in its timbre , like an " explosion of no doubt joyful emotion that , frightened out of my wits , I — started back and made my first false step right across the golden -shod - foot of some court lady . E E ? Is it to be wondered at , that I Shall never forget this historical moment

Neither will the most charming young American ladies in Brussels , whose eyes shone with delight in faces pale with emotion , along whose smartly tailored backs excited thrills I will wager that for some days after, they did not wash the dimpled hands which were shaken with such T d hi s eager cordiality by ed y , who reserved wittiest words and most win so E nin smiles for much irresistible youthful grace . t E g u I had after all gained one thing through my letter of introduction . I was the only one of all the Dutch urnalists that received permission to o’ travel the next day IN ROOSEVELj S PRIVATE TRAIN on i ts entry into

. th at i s E Holland And what I am now going to tell you about . ‘ ' E Was ou 28th 1 91 0 It the of April , again very early in the morning that 1 2 - LEN D AM. VO FISHER GIRL. I 3 a f - lustily hooting motorcar, the chau feur in the court livery of the King of

a d . E the Belgians , d shed into the Station a Nord at Brussels E On the platform a dense crowd of cople jostled each other near the

0? . the train , quite ready for a fresh fit enthusiasm Another minute and r wh he appea s , the man o possesses the affection of millions , who has to his admirers all over the world , perhaps soon again be the head of one of the most powerful nations . Quite familiarly he threads his way z through the throng, a man of medium Si e , but strongly built ; correctly but plainly dressed in his long black coat ;a pearl -grey tie with a diamond

S TWO DRAWBRIDG E AT EDAM .

l ow S . pin ; a collar howing his sunburnt neck His ever mobile , fascina S - wri n ting face with its intelligent, hort sighted eyes puckered up in fi ne kles r . , looks chee fully round With a hurried step , appearing rather small , s he walks behind the extremely tall adjutant of the Kin the Mini ter, f ‘ . n o Mr Brya , and the members the Legation clearing with di culty a narrow - l assa e . hum oured g for him And very ood y, na ALMOST MERRILY, Eoosevelt s g1 pushe through a those shoulders an elbows , smiling at the l people , nodding, and finally ifting his tall hat and wavin it , continually makin that upward movement with his ri ht hand , w ich irresistibly - t emin 5 one of a band conductor rousing is orchestra . This hugely

hi s . for deli the people The Americans among them , lon ing another fare “ ” : wel glance, cheer vociferously Teddy, Teddy l he charming Ame 1 4 e . I rican young ladies kiss their hands to him , with tears in their ey s S such ulari t hi s ow n Op y not marvellous , thousands of miles away from country E - Having mounted the platform of his saloon carriage , he leans ag ainst m the railings for a few moments , then nods fa iliarly over his Shoulder to ” E N E E his boys , the faithful AM RICA R PORT RS , whom I was allowed who - to join , and had been Shadowing him , with note book and camera from the time he had quitted the wilderness . E to to The public also beginning clamber on the train , he is literally hustled into the saloon , where , somewhat fatigued , he Sits down by the

. not window , his head averted from the crowd This , however, does deter on - his persistent admirers from tapping the window anes , pressing faces Pi ttle crimson with excitement , against them , waving their stars and stripes

e l . b fore his eyes , while adies ecstatically put their lips against the glass

This is too much even for Roosevelt . A sunny smile again breaks over his his face and although they cannot hear him , he speaks , he intimates by

ME EN . B SS L N U O RIDGE ACRO THE WAA . “ ’ ’ ” : h estures T at s right , that s ri ht , my dear good people , his extreme g g its to s a . piquant, expressive face wit— lar e dazzling teeth , seems y loud whistle from the en ne and Tgeodore Roosevelt is on his way " . How TO GOOD OLD HOLLAN to meet the Dutch , his Kinsfolk n for on ever does he stand these tiring dut jour eys , weeks end I 1 “ s . one a ked the American colleagues We , says , through his thorough s physical training ; his muscle are tireless , and consequently his nerves ”

as . and brain well And , says another, because this triumphal tour ‘ through Europe is just the kind of thing he en o They are all aston i shed at hi s opulari ty in both continents . hat do you think of him ’ ” ? E our - —in Holland verybody there knows and admires ex president . It is a source of much re ret to the journalists th at t ey are not familiar or to with the Dutch langu e , the would , especially here, dearly love “ ’ y interview the man in he street about Teddy . E now f r And he would like to rest o awhile . Leaning back in an easy - a b k club chair, oo on Holland and a Dutch newspaper (from which his own name stan ds forth conspicuously at the head of the flatteri ng leading 15 article) resting on a little table before him , he gazes out of the window .

It is evident he does not wish to be disturbed even by the reporters . E But as the train steams into the next station his ears are greeted for the “ ” first time with loud Dutch cheers . First of all he motions to the boys . ” “ ort ers ui ck ui ck Come in , he invites the re , , , we are in Holland and THE E F FO EFA E ” E I am so glad , HOM MY H RS l ntering with the “ : rest , I approach him , saying Mr . Roosevelt, as a Dutchman , it ives me much pleasure to assure you of a most hearty welcome in Hollan — For of hi s an instant I detected a film emotion in his eyes , then extending hand he clasped mine cordiali while answering much more gently than on the “ ” i em h asi zi n previous day : Fine . hat is very fine and p every word : “ You know my forefathers left your country to cross to gAmerica three ” ” are E centuries ago . We know it , and proud of it l E Here he was cheered lustily by the Dutch crowd , who called out fam i arl : ronun y Roosevelt , Roosevelt , giving the word its correct Dutch p ci ati on , at which the great man was visibly moved , and in a voice of : emotion said Thank you , you are the first whom l have heard pronounce ” : -SE- E so my name correctly RO(O) V LT I And the journey continues ,

. é . E now in the company of the American Minister, Mr Beaupr - E It was a bright refreshing spring morning, and observing how beautiful s ri n our dear country looked as it lay around , dressed in its delicate p

garb , I felt proud to think that he , who had travelled all over the worl

and had seen Nature in her mightiest moods , now sitting at the train b window , could not fail to be struck ythe novelty and charm of his surroundi n . of S For the Dutch landscape, ying low amidst its dykes , is 0 so ‘ a colour, an atmosphere, of an aspect very picturesquely its own , S - as can be found in no other pot in the world , owing to its very Simpli 1

city , which in its flat stretches of meadow land , bordered by ditches and . retensi on or overwh elm i n Tand eur . canals , is void of all , display This i s how ex- president fioosevelt then viewed OUR LAND§§ZAPES as they

glided by in the soft golden light , through which , across the blue Sky , so the white clouds often painted by Maris , were floating lazily over our

dark heaths , our woods , clothed in their early verdure, our grassy mea

dows and yellow buttercups . It pleased me to think how intensely peaceful and home-like our little country must appear to the great man on his world Journey E Ever saw y now and then I the Minister, who knows Holland very well ,

carry on a brisk conversation with Teddy . I could well imagine that he - as i s was telling the ex president about the count of his ancestors , it at the present time ; HOW THEEX - PRESIDEN WAS TO LOOK AT HOL LAND ; that he must not expect to find everything here as it is represented in anecdotes ; not look in our modern houses for the historical interiors of - nor - seventeenth century beauty, for the gracefully shaped and lovingly for so as cared household articles , eagerly sought antiquities , as they are i are no longer n use . E 1 6 ” “ E w sa For, he ould , the many magnificent works of art wrought by - y one the guild freemen , in yg centuries , have for the greater part been carried away b train and S hip over the frontier and across the seas of es peci ally to : yhe New World . And also far too many the paintings of our old Dutch masters are now hangin in the galleries of wealthy Ame ur gittl of ld - r a so o e o . ic ns , that in own homes , very our Dutch art is left It has been scattered over the whole world ; for not every Hollander is so “ ” as e r s steinreich (Rolling in wealth) , view d in pe spective , he appear to

. TEVEN SP LAATS . n um eoeu ST . S

be . A few patrician families have retained much that is beautiful , and to f — ’ some o their collections at the Hague and Amsterdam jhr. Six s for no — n instance , which you , Mr . Roosevelt, will doubt visit foreig ers are still

admitted . E E To r one be pe fectly candid then , cannot get over the fact that some foreigners are extremely covetous of the costly heirlooms our forefathers h as have handed down to us , and this fact caused many Dutchmen to ' limit their hospitality to a great exte nt . You will therefore have to look ri vate for these things in the public museums , rather than in the houses s of esi red of our gentlefolk , the former po sessors all these much objects , f E - for they have become careful o TH IR ART TREASURES . E i s i - t d So it nowadays the c ty and state au horities who , aide by wealth , - al y art lovin citizens , collect the best of everything and g uard it je ous y f a ai nst a 1 possible risk o alienation . E i s of i In this way, forci ners can still admire the f ne t products our nat on ’ ’ ’ al olland s art , inspired by beauty, Holland s customs and Holland s eci all lory, es y in that golden seventeenth centu of the history of the Dn ited therlands i , when proud Amsterdam was t e f rst mercantile city the f o f E r of the world , and the Republic took the lead in af airs all u ope. E a r s Moreover, the contem lation of those m ste piece in the land in which i nteresti n s they were created , will e the more because after centurie , f Y ou many o their surroundings have remained unc an ed . will see the old Z ATMOSPH RE so pictures , Colonel , in the same HA Y which is char l w acteri sti c of the o countries by the sea. In the same soft light of our — cloudy Dutch skies within the precincts of old cities which have remained so r typically Dutch , where still man sixteenth and seventeenth centu y statel houses reflect their facades in t e water of the canals , overshadowed

li m etrees and estnuts . E b elms, c EyThe of towers Gothic , and in the Brabant country through which we are now out passing, even a few Roman churches , still ring the same chimes to - h the same old national tunes , high above the red tiled gabled roofs . And t e activity and bustle of seamen from all parts of the world , has been revived i along the rivers , quays , wharves and canals , where ships of all nat ons display their fla s as of yore . E E ou g now If will ance out of the window , that we are passing THE LUX ‘y EAD OWS and a ai n l ater on as we i call RIANT , g , go through the t y “ ” ou ui Dutch polder land , y will see the pure white, sturdily b lt , oxen and cows , grazin in thousands and thousands, in company with fine Dutch — ’ horses a Si n ogHolland s pro sperity . E ’ E -l ad oi ni n Further a on we reach the lower in districts the sea . In fact THE GREA ER PART OF OUR C U TRY THER LIE BENEATH - THE SEA E E . L V L Ditches , canals , and often our larger rivers , stand many so feet above the land surrounding them , that the boatmen whose saili n to barges lie moored at the quays, are obliged occasionally descend to t e ” e s older where they have come to take in corn , ha or straw , by m an 0 l as - a long ladder. And when the foaming seas , ed by the spri ng or - our autumn storms , which often ravage coasts, have, here or there, broken u r now thro gh our dykes , which fortunately happens ve y seldom , owing to the fact perhaps t—hat our hydraulic engineers must be amongst the most S ou . killed in the world then y could have seen , Mr Roosevelt , entire vil so lages with their surrounding orchards , flooded , that only a steeple reared itself like a beacon in the limitless waters . It en then that A WHERRY IS LAUNCHED FROM THE ATTIC-WI OwoF A HIGH E HOUS to save men and cattle from risk of drowning. E s s for These inundations , which occur with le s and le s frequency, are us the r -s v , Hollanders , ala ming manifestations of the below ea le el , on 18 which we so unsuspectingly dwell in town and country . And afterwards l s o we co ntribute very contented y toward the millions and milli ns of guild

OLD CANAL . ! UTRECHT . t ers that are demanded every year for the upkeep of the dykes , to pro ect , — E ea . our s us from ever threatening enemy the t E It is by reason of the unusual situation of Holland , as the lowest coun ry arti cularl in Europe that strangers from all parts of the world , Ameri , h — , cans who , as a rule are , in their travels attracted y the hig est alti 20 ' tudes — m ore and te e f visit our land more , finding it of such absorbin in r st , — g without the Hollanders bei n not alone because they wear no pig-tails the double-dutch WATER ! HINESE for whom they are sometimes mis taken from a distance . E E Almost every inch of this low count h as been wrested from the sea ri d h as and i ts t ri buta es . Again and again a y e been built round a stretch m of water . Lakes , pools , marshes , Sloughs , quag ires or whatever they may f o a s . be called , often covering an area m ny acre , have been pumped dry - ri verm ud And the reclaimed lands , coated with sea clay and , have been

ALONG THE VECHT . n - tra sformed into fertile plains , where farmers and cattle breeders have settled, and villages have developed into towns . E But con uered r of these g territories , which form the g eater part Holland , must be defende da and night against the encroaching waters , that never

f . erefore relax , their e forts T you will find in our maps a network of pol ” ' - sea- ad oi ni n der dykes , guarding the interior, within the mighty walls , g - the sand dunes , those natural and splendid delicately tinted guar ians of - sea . the Dutch coast Many of the canals and streams , where a regular ‘ -traffic i s 0 ul ati on barge maintained , and on which , in winter, the entire ei r s E E E E SAI ICE y itself ON SKAT S , IN SL DG S , SL IGHS AND I G - Y fié . HTS , really exist for drainage purposes , regulated by locks The nu m erous so i c windmills , character stic of the Dutch lands ape , were nalf s y de tined to discharge the superfluous water, which is now gen don - e by steam pumping stations . 21 E h-a The many picturesque hi rched bridges , reflecting their g raceful a curves in the water, and the ite drawbrid es with their angular b lance g for c tilts , which adorn many a Dutch picture, ave served ages to arry the traffic over all these canals without hampering the shippi ng . E Thus i s every characteristic of the Dutch landscape a consequence of the l ow situation amidst such an abundance of water . The enormous rail - of esen way bridges , miracles engineering skill , over which we Shall pr tly s C no t of the a pas , olonel , across fewer than hree largest rivers , will c use you to be astonished at the wonderful TECHNICAL SKILL to which we were urged by necessity: And it is the same with everything that makes e Holland so uncommonly charming to strangers . The damp soil ne ded i - - s -wil lanting w th moisture loving trees , which , e pecially the pollard E ows . , ve our watery land , a beaut all its own E gi sa 0 s u u And t en the whole flora, p y colour and structure, thrive l x an d r riantly in the meadows besi e the ditches , while flocks of wate fowl ” l um a to our S in their white g e lend a picturesque charm polders , hores

. S and islands he rarer pecimens of these birds are still reserved , a fact of w ho E - taken advantage by many Americans , come for AT R FOWL as to see us SHOOTING, much the inhabitants dislike the precio colony f E o birds exterminated by their guns . Mr E An d . , Roosevelt, if you will only raise your eyes , you will acknow ledge that nowhere have you observed anything like the imposing trai l of E s . clouds that ail along our skies , in this humid atmosphere E too r Our peculiarly planned towns and villages , , most of which o igi n ated of along the waterways ; and the architecture our houses , built on —it piles , driven into the marshy soil has all grown just so , in harmony

so n . E with its surroundings , typically Dutch , because ours is a waterla d E for e b seafari n I surel That centuries past , the Dutch hav een a nation , y so THE -M EE need not tell ou , Colonel , soon after HALF ON HAS B N RIGHTLY H NOURED AT THE HUDSON-CELEBRATION in New

. our York The influence of this on the civilization of country , which our ators of s has brought navi into contact with people all nationalitie ,

or . AS r E been perceptible ages an instance , the Dutch were the fi st uro m of peans to enter into regular co mercial relations with japan , which the a r abundance of old jap nese art, and of old Chinese and japanese potte y , ’ to old s was con be found among the blue Delft , even in pea ants houses , a se uence of E ;while on the other hand , the presence CULTUR D DUTCH Mg za e N IN APAN originated the western civili tion there . The fish ries o h t o have een since t e olden days a most important means of existence . Nearly all our larger towns were originally sea-po rts or fishing villages ; — — for which we have to thank our neighbour the sea that m ade our so t n of our n av m en histo lo io s b the heroic deeds y, under such as MIC IEL E RUY T AND BESTEVAER TROMl E ’ E se a fi ros erit The , that wide roadway for the world s traf c , forJz p and so Ih for science and art, which have developed luxuriantly. e sea t at by 22 i ts indom it abl e power and never-e nding st ruggle for the possession of our co has us a untry , formed the Dutch character ;that made an e rnest, perse v ri n of e g almost dogged kind people , and pious and simple from a continual l us u sense of dependence ; but it has a so made ingenio s , in finding means o f Opposing and thwarti ng its natural supremacy by cleverly executed plans - Mr . of and well considered devices All which virtues , . Roosevelt , the n ou historia s will credit y with , and perhaps attribute to your Dutch extrac m e tion Here reveri , which I had indulged in while travelling in Roo ’ sevelt s y n was train t rough Holla d, suddenly disturbed , and the Speech ni was r s which , in my fond imagination , the Mi ster pou ing into the ear of

T E Z . H AAN DISTRICT T O T H E NORTH O F AMS TERDAM . was off l our illustrious visitor , broken by the train coming to a standsti l at ’ . s E E a station H RTOGENBOSCH . t of of t On the pla form stood hundreds people, and right in front his c e of an d los ly packed throng sturdy Dutch men women , among whom - a were some rustics , their sun tanned faces surrounded by black frilled c ps , ’

e E E S a sta ndsti ll . naively adorn d with flowers , ROOS V LT carriage came to E E A G NUIN DUTCH HURRAH burst forth , which the president did not

e to . his its se m expect here Surprised he stood up , face wrinkled into x “ kindest e pression , but there seemed no end to the cheering . Tedd l"— t Tedd s houted the ladies in i m itation of he Am eri cans . A ain he ma e hi s andm aster ut gesture with his indefatigable right hand. this was not t out t enough . Roosevelt had o come on o the small platform at the of f end the carriage . And he stood again in the middle o the delighted crowd , 23 who continued shouting their welcome in Dutch . He looks round quickly , to see whether any one intends sa ing something spontaneouslv that he to r can understand and answer , an a lady, standing in front cal ed out in ” “ E : : nglish Speak to us , to which he replied I am sorry I am not able was THE E to do this in our lan age , which once LANGUAG OF MY FO EFAT R HE . see S But am so glad to you , Hollanders who three cen ” turi es ago , were the pioneers of our American nation and , there were tears in those keen , expressive eyes , while his face wrinkled up alarmingly . ” Then he called out in quite correct Dutch : Ik dank u .

E 1 MRS. E E E EL The people were affected They shouted — ROOS V LT, TH , YOUR SON KERMIT ! Let us see them ! But he answers laughing : “ They are a little tired . His family was meanwhile sitting in another compartment invisible from the platform : the still youthful woman with her aristocratic kind face , dressed very simply in a dark green costume , with a boa of “ chantecler” feathers and a strikingly small fashionable bonnet ;the slim daughter, somewhat pale, but very pretty under the broad - - son brimmed hat , trimmed with spring flowers , and the still boyish looking , has who such a pleasing gesture , when he takes off his uncomfortable ‘ tall hat , to pass his fingers through his fair locks . But they did not show ut E themselves and the tram glided slowly o of the station . ’ E The Hague Minister may perhaps have told him then that s-Her to enbosch g , though somewhat removed from the usual route , is worth vi siti n t un by orei ners , if only as an example of an , in many respects , ‘ Wt h altere old Dute town , received its charter as early as the twelfth E c entury . E But the crossing of the rivers would n o doubt have caused the conver eneral - sation to become g in the compartment , where the ex president was looking out of the Open window in the mild spring weather. The Maas , E E - the Waal and OLD FATH R RHIN , originally mountain streams , peace full wind their way between their overflow - banks and the flowering r ya o e . rds , to the low countries , where they throw themselves into the sea s And the bus traffic of hurrying tug , carrying merchandise from all parts of the worl out of the port of Rotterdam into Germany, in an endless i - Rh neboats . series of long , broad sailed hoys , luggers etc , borne along on — so as their white wings all combine to create a scene picturesque , can only be seen in Dutch waters and under Dutch skies . On their green banks , and gathered closely around the tall structures of old mediaeval atewa s THE E ED churches and y , are DUTCH HOUS S WITH THEIR R E S ove row n TIL D ROOF , in the shade of trees , g with creepers , the first -flowers olri - as spring blossoming against the brick work , as high the ’ - - gable tops . Woods , covering gently sloping hills , lead one s imagination ’ - i to the province of Gelderland , Holland s pleasure ground , where the ar s t rati c fam ili es - E oc old still have their stately count seats . E was E E Novrom a Now the train passing NIJM G N , the us of the Romans , : on E NT Y b uilt amphitheatrically seven hills . VERY CO R HAS ITS 24 MS A . A TERD M m e xou r (A ! UAINT CANAL) . at o CUSTOMS . It i s also in this co rner of the world th the water f the i t to t wide rivers s predominant in i s onward course the sea, the outle for them all in our low-lying count I should have liked to point out many eature to - to more signs of this characteristic the ex president , enable him to et a deeper insight into the manners and customs of these ty ically D u and - — pot ch , sturdy, rosy fair haired men and women aye , above a L our — a i . B ut I rich language and be utiful l terature, so little known abroad — would have added these pecul iarities of our count have not remained

e a as ou a s . oosevelt so notic ably a nation l feature, y l o , Mr , may have r b to . So ou us been made believe , now that y have honoured y coming e on on see h re , must rid our mind of the idea that are going to a GAU Y RUSTIC V UD EVILLE in the most won erful prehistoric costu ’ oi e s mes, amidst scenery tre s pruned into animal shapes , green house on s d piles like large dovecot , from which bri al parties descend into boats , — to be rowed to the town - hall and for the rest nothing but windmil l s E standing out against Rembrandtesque backgrounds . E r n Ours is a modern count y , with modern cities and modern inhabita ts , who will gladly address foreigners in their own language . And the innate

l ou r so . y Dutch in this wil please y the mo e , because it is unobtrusive }. or c of nor of display is neither characteristi the landscape, the rather f- stif mannered , reserved people . Yet in a few more remote islands , and -oi — - s to m in some out the way district , it is still possible meet with si ple , of primitive folk , attired in their native costume , living in hamlets small b wooden houses, guarded lofty d kes , where antique articles of house hold use have been car efuly cherisyed for centuries . E sa : E E I I hear you y VOL N AM AND MARK N . Well , will at once pro ceed to tell you the best way of seeing these really wonderful places with w f f i ers your o n eyes . From Amsterdam hundreds o ore make the excur sion daily, partly by water and partly by land , w ich especially in this “ ” polder region lies so much lower than the dykes that intersect it . A s of small steamboat take them through a part the capital , built out into the f “ ” or a o . water, which re son it is sometimes called the Venice of the N rth or under th e i The excursionists once twice , while going bridges , are obl ged to to r bend their heads prevent their hats being knocked off. After c os on sin the river Y, whose banks Amsterdam lies , in the shape of a - on the un re hal moon , and having arrived opposite side , they board an p n steam tram r tentio s little , which carries them over the h gh , nar ow dykes ” i u of this typical polder region , along which the villages are built . A bo nd oi - m less perspective broad meadow land , where formerly great lakes shi —a t mered , eve where intersected by canals and ditches nd soon hey E E l reach BRO IN WAT RLAND , a village which , though much ridicu ed , ’ a s is yet, through its quaintness, of peculiar interest to foreigners . Its n tive , since they have been brought more into contact with civilization , have lost many of the unsophisticated and proverbially primitive ways and manners , but the numerous wooden houses, mostly painted in crude 26

, colours and gaudily decorated , still preserve all their curious quaintness , ,

f E ld- . in their setti ng of o world gardens , little bridges and miniature ponds h as E The contrasts follow in quick succession on this trip , for hardly the odd little village been left behind , when we approach the venerable

THE BINNENH F. THE HAG UE. O

old town of MONNIKENDAM, within whose hoary precincts , we pre of sently find ourselves under the shade stately trees , and where , out of , restful peace , arises its purely Gothic cathedral whose tower affords a fine

s , panorama of Waterland . I n the harbour lie the real Marken smack over th e manned by genuine Marken fishermen , ready to take the visitors ' ” ou Gee rt e Gouwzee to the famous island . Whether y en age De Vrouw “ ” ut not e , or De Jonge Cornelis , does matter, as t y sail equally well 28 of . to are , course , dependent on the wind If this happens be unfavourable , ’ - o b ou can g o by motor boat . The trip acr ss takes a out an hour s sailing ; yut ou ou 0 if y want to do it more rapidly, y must in the winter, in an ice bo at which has often made the trip over the s ippery course in the time of four minutes . E l ent of i The islanders get y foreign vis tors , especially Americans , whom ow n ou ec uli ar they see more than t eir countrymen . As y enter the nar on of l i s row little harbour, where Sundays the whole fleet smacks

GATEWAY AT DELFT. call collected , you must not be astonished at hearing the children out to “ ou E cr E from a distance , in nglish , their begging of BABY P NNY y yurnt he island , whose houses have been repeatedly down , and which h as t been inundated still more often , is divided into eleven tiny hamle s , as ai nst all built on hillocks or mounds , a safeguard a the water, and joined by narrow paths and ditches . The twelfth i llock is the restin

. I n hi ll oc 5 place of their dead winter, when the floods rise, these twelve - sea . alone remain unsubmerged , like mole hills in the wide But sometimes , to the water rises into their houses , when their respective owners have one take refuge high up under the roofs . The communication between 29 t s the ar r is little mound and another, and be ween the e and h bou , main E fained by stran e little Marken boats . E EE NOT A SIN LE TR exists on this island . Grass alone growing in such abundance that quite a fair amount of money is earn ed in hay- m aking by the women and girls ; the men spending the greater part of their tim e - E with the fishing fleet . ou il u E The dress of the peo le of Marken is hi hly pict uresque . Y w l do bt less know it from the lgutch pictures or rom photogr aphs taken by your ow n m The m en country en during the summer . wear short , wide knee

- OLD LIGHTHOUSE. FISHING SMACKS ON THE BEACH . two breeches , a loose, sparsely decorated jacket , with gold or silver but on r of tons the collar, and by preference the uncomfo table splendour A ’ . one TALL SILK HAT The women s costume is much more intricate , and cannot imagine how they manage to dress themselves every m ornin

of . without the help a maid On the head a high cylinder, covered wit coloured ribbons , and surmounted by a small muslin cap . From under “ ” h ai r a this headgear a quantit of fair , la Arriet spreads over the ’ ” “ two forehead , in an idiot s ringe while from the temples long golden - curls descend to the chest . In addition to this a tightly laced bodice is of - of C worn , with a kind chest protector flowered hintz , and a whole

u n s d ; q antity of short , outsta ding petticoat and low shoes or woo en clogs 30 ' Th e rls s ex actl E children , boys and , are dre sed like MARK N DOLLS , ui as which are the delight o the American ladies . they are a rule no t for sale as curiosities ! E Th e Marken people are no less conservat ive in their customs than in

e i s . E their costume, the queer st stor e being related about them ven if ou ou a of could speak our language, y would certainly not underst nd muc of e and their dialect . The interiors their dw llings are quaint eccentric , with decorations of the gaudiest description . But it would take me quite t h . o an an our, Mr Roosevelt, describe the many peculiar and genuinely

. r i s e for tique things to be seen Moreover, some su pr se must be l ft the

GATEWAY I N LEY DEN . s - MARRET E THI SSEN EE vi itors , and that worldly wise old woman J J T R one HUIS for instance , will readil show you for a tip , (for choice a large ) y -a- as as her treasures , consisting of p ates , dishes and bric brac , well the - rofusely decorated high show bed in her parlour . The visitors once more g r rub oa d the smack , and sail to another spot , where they their eyes and wonder whether they are perchance dreaming . E But no ; the bizarre dream is in realit the old Dutch fishi n villa e of its E HOUS E E GH P LES Volendam , with WOOD N S P RCH D ON H f - ranged on both sides o the sea wall , so that in stormy weather the waves may .roll unrestrained beneath the dwellin s . When we enter the houses , ] of one gow- we find they most t consist single, ceilinged room , very often of A on r l full the smoke om the open fire the hea th , but artistica ly deco 3 1 n - e-a- rated with all ma ner of small , gaily coloured bri brac and polished - — brass work all alarmingly clean . E This reminds me of a sto about the American in Volendam who dared not so one spit on the scrupulous y clean steps, scrubbed that might - eat from them , nor on the spotless floors , nor even in the stables and ’ was for he almost at his wits end , when at last looking the least clean h ened 5 d es spot , his lance ap to li ht on a fisherman face and in , t pair HE TLY l g OK HIS A M THERE. But I do no suppose it is true, for he would certainly have fared rather badly , these Volendam men - being big strong fellows . They look very comical in their balloon like - erse 3 breeches, and ga ly coloured woollen , while in winter and summer i i ” ll alike , they wear a woollen cap , somet ing ike a fez . The women adorn havm their heads with great white hoods , g flaps which reach below the o ul ati on r f The whole p lives here like a la ge family, estranged rom

. of 240 a the outer world he men go fishing together in their fleet sm cks , of s and probably through the habit of living in the tiny cabins their boat ,

sit on s . these huge fellows never on a chair, but always squat their haunche E Artists from all parts of the world gather here to paint them in their r romantic su roundings . After a walk round , the visitors will be able to see , e - a - R E moored in the harbour, a r al old f shioned DUTCH TOWING BA G , e in perfect k eping with its surroundings , and which is towed through a - . a narrow canal , winding through the low lying fields The horse ttached “ ” to - o - Vol endam m er ad the tow line goes at a slow j g trot over the p , the pathway that runs alongside the water, while the driver continually tries

old . born to inspire the crock with new life When the bargeman blows his , the bridges are raised for the towin s harge to pass . E t E In this way the excursionists eac the pretty little town of DAM , and to from here you are carried back Amsterdam , where the citizens , Mr . Roo sevelt . E , e erly await your arrival - E . Then t e train stopped Amidst thunderous cheers , the ex president i alighted , followed by his fam ly, and again began shaking the hands that

out . of l were held to him from all sides A short speech official we come , con atul ai i n Roosevelt on having FOR THE FIRST TIME SET FOOT gg A of our ON UTCH OIL , in rnhem , one most beautifully situated fashion a ble towns , the capital of Gelderland , whose inhabitants bear on their “ : proud device High courage, small possessions , sword in hand , is the ” a - motto of Gelderl nd . Outside , the motor cars stood waiting, surrounded of by a large concourse of people . A Chamberlain Queen Wilhelmina of welcomes , in the name his sovereign , the representative of the American r nation , in the count y of his forefathers . Prince Henry of the h as sent his own motor-car to convey Roosevelt and his family to the

Palace of the Loo , where , immediately on their arrival , they are received as THE GUESTS OF THEROYAL FAMILY. Throughout the town crowds “ ”

T s . of people have assembled , who cheer eddy most cordially as he pas es - - Soon the motor cars are running along the beautiful high roads , construct 3 2 e ed by Napoleon for his armies, through the loveli st wooded district,

r . whe e lordly mansions , standin in their own domains , adjoin each other r extendi n It is a splendid ent y through t ese stately wide avenues , for -t0 s li m se of miles , with here and there from the hill p a p the Rhine w ere , S sk t li ree silhouetted against the pring y, like dain y g tracery , the Cunet a f as Tower o Rhenen appears , a distant vision . E E e its As if through one wide avenue, more b autiful than ever in fresh s ri n of p garb , the celebrated man the most powerful Union reached the E home y , white mansion , nestlin amon the woods , the PALAC OF HOL ’ LAN D S A I g UNG EE . was CH RM NG, FAIR , Y U N The reception simple,

D SAWI N G Y A WATERMILL AND A WOO MILL NEAR LE DEN . of to unceremonious and full cordiality , quite the taste of the unofficial

. a ambassador of the democratic republic . At lunch Mr Roosevelt s t t t OUR E E our a tractive Queen , who informed him tha D AR LITTL PRIN I was old - CESS JUL ANA in the best of health , asleep in her Dutch cradle f in one o the adjoining rooms . E - E . son Mrs Roosevelt was seated next to the Prince Consort , while her was astonishing the Court-gentlemen by relati n some of his hunting ex

loits . easants p In a country where hares , partridges , p and a few deer th e P t - preserved in Royal arks , consti ute the game, real lion hunters are

not often met with at Court . E E t Af er lunch , the Prince conducted the American family to the station , ' - F l where AN AMUSING SURPRISE awaited the ex president . or not on y see were there numbers of people who , in order to the great man , had of l c gained admission by way rai way ti kets , so that they could not be 3 3 off turned the platform , but , what is more , Teddy found his reserved car a - ri g e in the express train occupied by the American reporters , who follow rocee him everywhere . Of course, the Minister protested against these p dings , but the train being due to start , the reporters remained where they were . So the late head of the democratic Union , and the representatives “ ’ of the Queen of the Earth had to put u with each other s company in

as . ut to the small saloon , as far Amsterdam Teddy is not the man be ” E an ry with his faithful boys at a thing like that . E fi of he journey proceeded through the un lled re ion the Veluwe , with gl exi st its wood and heath landscape, amid which hills sti that can be traced THE I E- E back to C P RIOD , and numbers of tumuli , raised over the graves E of the Roman inhabitants . E now E THE E EPISCO The train has approached UTR CHT, ANCI NT

PAL CITY, one of the oldest Dutch towns , situated in the centre of the country and still teeming with monumental memorials of its venerable 1 03 history . The Dom (Cathedral) , whose meters hi h tower is visible for 42 i s . 5 many miles around , the glory of Utrecht A pea of bells rin out D ED over the city, amon which the venerable St . Salvator bell HAS SOU

FOR FIVE CENT RIES . It weighs eight thousand kilos . Through a s l endid . vaulted arch , the modern traffic passes under the tower The om - choir is connected by the thirteenth century Gothic cloisters with the famous Utrecht University, which has been partl enlarged in the Dutch - yound Renaissance style, but in whose older part is still the former hall of “ ” D om ka ittel . the ancient p (chapel) , now used as Aula Numbers of palatial dwelling s and especially numerous old almshouses m ake a walk through

its . Utrecht s streets and along canals a real pleasure And when the visitor, as e in viewing these magnificent antiquities , well as those in the Mus um , so to sa of has , been carried back to the glorious past our people , the trecht f environs of , will af ord him opportunity of refreshing himself in - tn butari es the ever new Nature . Those meadows , intersected by the of - s e the Rhine and numberless canals ; with their woods and country hou s , E - for its old scener wh ere the V CHT DISTRICT, renowned typically Dutch y, the Amsterdam patricians used to have their summer-residences on the ei capricious bends of this idyllic little river . In the same n g hbourhood - - EE HE S . E OUR QU N MOT R too , has her charming country seat oestdijk E - But on their way to the capital , ex president Roosevelt and his suite of journalists followed another route , leading through the Gooi , the charming of so c country wood and heath , learly loved by our painters , since Anton

Mauve , who worked and lived here, depicted the pastoral beauty of the Neuhu s i Laren landscape, and Albert y painted his pictures, r ghtly admired also in America, inspired by the old unaltered interiors , inhabited b she E herds , woodcutters and weavers . Consequently A R AL COLO Y F E h as - PAINT RS been formed in this district , where American fellow artists , male and female, are honoured guests, and the American dollars received in exchange for the pictures form a large part of the general income . 3 4

’ ‘ E Meanwhile HOLLAND S CAPITAL was awaiting the arrival of one of

' th the m ost of . 1 7 n renowned sons its forefathers Amsterdam , in her ce tury erit f pros y owing to specially favourable circumstances , Queen o the Seas ’ and ride of the World s commerce ; in the words of our greatest poet , V ” ondel , unmeasured in power and in riches , focus of the industry , arts d ’ n sciences of the whole world . But fortune s vicissitudes have not left fier into

'

H . SPAARN E wm r S . EAvo s AARLEM THE T . sa disposal , for I only wanted to y one or two words to Mr . Roosevelt , preparatory to his entry into this capital . But this I must tell you : Amster dam has remained the foremost town of Holland , and is still in many respects one of the most important cities in the world . E E - not Though inferior to Rotterdam as a shipping port , it is only the great - -E Dutch money market , but her Stock xchange has to be reckoned with ’ in international finance , millions of guilders worth of American stocks and so shares changing hands , that her great banks rank among the most important monetary i nstitutions of the world . She is the first of the mar ’ for of E fo r kets Holland s commerce, and perhaps the principal port urope the importation of colon ial produce . 3 6 HE E -MA E for E T AMST RDAM TOBACCO RK T, instance, is visited every fi ve- - - year by about and twenty Americans, mostly tobacco merchants , and of a few eat manufacturers , among whom are representatives corpora tions , ike the American Cigar Cy and the United Cigar Manufacturers . a Formerly there were considerably more , but their numbers have decre sed, since the factories have become more and more concentrated in the hands of . a few great owners The American buyers are received with open arms, h u r a - nerall bei ng l arg esupporters oft e S m at a tob cco m arket . Theyg e y remain as s of at Amsterdam , long a the sales are held , that is from the middle of ul an d March till the middle j y, from the b inning of September till the

of . h um atra s end October T ey buy almost exclusively tobacco , the leave of which must be large, thin and light in weight, on account of the high duty in America, which is per American lb . Notwithstanding this, i s there is a great demand for Sumatra tobacco in Amer ca , which , be ides

B ULB FIELDS NEAR HAARLEM .

be ing far superior to the home produce in quality and colour, suits the

popular taste . The yearly export to America is about 25000 to 3 0000 bales ‘ 2 . of 75 Kilos each . The prices generally vary from to 6 guilders per la Kilo

But if American tobacco is scarce , owing to a bad season , the price of

to 7 8 lh . the best kind is sometimes driven up and even guilders a , mostly - - to by cigar manufacturers , for few tobacco merchants are able afford such - high prices . The Sumatra tobacco bought by America i s used only for the E ll x ensrve . outer leaf, for cheap as w e as e p cigars E statel The beautiful aspect of Amsterdam still retains the old , proud of ffi uh lory , even i the exigencies modern tra c have not left this quite

ouched . But perhaps the most characteristic sign of the changing ti mes is

Mr . Roosevelt, that many of the dignified old houses whose fine seventeenth century fronts extend in long rows along the stately canals which encircle the whole inner town with a grand sweep have ceased to be lordly man for l’ OS el'Ol I S sions generations of p p merchants , and have been turned into for - offices land development and industrial companies, of which more 3 7 than two hundred , with an aggregate capital of as many million guilders , n are stimulating the mercantile life of Amsterdam . Some branches of l r ' E dust attained new rospe it in this and the preceding century . E E UTTINa T DIAMOND INDUSTRY, one of the largest workshops ] of which , Colonel , you will present visit , employs more than ten thousand

workers , most of whom are Jews . ere the diamonds are split , cut , bought

and sold for the whole world , America supplyin no small amount of i ’ g customers . And so the capital derives ts life s blood rom man and varied I t . eve O m en sources Art finds in Amsterdam , as of old , a wide field for p our and appreciation (her beauty inspired among many others, modern E painter Breitner his superb masterpieces) .

l . r E Architecture is beginning to add new lustre to its o d glory Dr . Cu pe s

. l and H . P Berla e are names that will be associated with the rise of D CH th th ARCHITECTU E in the l g and 20 centuries . Some important new

as tati on ' and of buildings, the Central S the Rijksmuseum the former, the E t xchange and a few other fine structures of the lat er, you will be able to admire, Mr . Roosevelt, immediately after your ent into Amsterdam . - thousan The far famed museums , visited every year by s of strangers from

of l ove . all parts the world , bear witness to the Dutch of art Musical life “ concentrates itself round the Concertgebouw orchestra, which under the spirited conducting of Mengelberg, is one of the most efficient orchestras ’ in Europe . The municipal University upholds the capital s old renown as a seat of learning . And so Amsterdam may still consider itself the centre ’ of Holland s culture . E ’ E The capital s most noticeable feature being her manifold com pl exit it i s . naturally impossible for me, Mr Roosevelt , to give you anything li e a complete description of the town and of the intricacies of life in Amster dam . But the guide to Holland that our great visitor had with him in the train , will no doubt have sufficiently informed him of the numerous sights in the domains of history, fine arts , commerce, shipping, industry , science - etc . In this compilation the ex president will not have found the famous w Six collection of pictures mentioned . This as closed to the public a short to time ago , though the owner would be pleased to open his galleries the ta resen ti ve . re of the Union But during his various rides through the town , ” eddy would be able to form his own impressions of its chief ch aract eri s

. it A has tics In this connection , should be remembered that msterdam been continually enlar ed from the Y in ever wider stretching arcs , encircled by ri i the four p nc pag canals . The river Amstel traverses the city from south

to r . no th Gwin to the intersection of all its canals, the town is sometimes called THE NO THERN VENICE. E E h as Amsterdam been divided into about a hundred tiny islands, con ect d n e by more than three hundred bridges . The greater part of the of es commercial traffic is carried on these canals, by means large , flat bar , thereby rendering the street traffic far less noisy. and objectionable t an E is usual in great cities . 3 8 E of In some quarters the inner city the backs of the houses , mostly ware so houses , are standing in the water, that the barges filled with goods , can

be unloaded directly into them . Another consequence of this abundance low of water, and of the level at which Amsterdam lies , is the swampy

character of the soil , the result being that the foundations of the houses f must be built o n multitudes o very long piles . E E Towards the evenin aft er his rapid journe throu h the reater part E E E HE of Holland TH ODOR ROOS V LT ARRIV D IN CA ITAL . On f is the plat orm he received still somewhat ceremoniously , in the sedate om aster of Dutch manner, by the bur Amsterdam , and a number of other - - ’ gentlemen in tall hats and rock coats . The ex president s private saloon

‘ ' D . ROT I ER AM ON THE MAAS . h as to carriage first be uncoupled , which causes some excitement among

the waiting deputation , who cannot see anything of the great man . The walk n for I to and fro nervously, looki g him , inquiring here and there, ti r h i s at last Teddy steps slowly f om carriage , looks scrutinizingly around f l - “ o fici a . with his sharp eyes , then turns to the first looking gentleman I am the burgomaster and Delighted ! sa s Roosevelt with hi s i n

fecti ous . laugh After shakin many hands , he lea s the company out of the “ ” station in American quie time . Outside stormy applause arises . Hats

are thrown in the air, the stars and stripes are waved . The great Yankee old is standing beside his host in the carri a e . Makin the familiar esture “ out : VE E INE D ELIGHTE So with his right hand , he calls Y FIN , ,

the short procession drives on from the station , (which by the bye is built on an island) along the wide thoron bi are with its bold silhouette of the D am of town , to the , the old centre of t e city , and one the most charac

teri sti c s uares E . of urope , surrounded as it is by monumental buildings In g HE E ne of front ROYAL PALAC , which is considered o the wonders 3 9 '

. foundati ons resti n of the world The g upon about fourteen thousand piles ,

was . e it built in strictly classical lines by Jac van Kampen , after the peac of of to Munster, as a worthy seat the municipality of Amsterdam , whom i . s r n ear 1 910 it will soon be returned Here it was that , in the p of the , a eared on balcon t - Queen Wilhelmina p the historical y, e little air haired 5 pl of wh o Juliana in her arms , owing her to tens of thousands her people,

w ere t h ri lli ng with enthusiasm . E To the right of the Palace one sees , perspectively joined to it , the rin ” ci al e - ! Jew gable of the wonderfully b autiful , late Gothic Nieuwe Kerk 5 Cgurch) with its glittering stained -glass windows and numerous other art ’ s of s trea ures , in the midst of which the remains Holland great naval hero ,

E D E E . E MICHI L RUYT R , are laid at rest E Roosevelt immediately won all hearts b honouring the memory of this

his 0 . great Dutchman , in visiting tomb first all The oldest churchwarden “ : addressed the famous visitor thus On entering this cathedral , where o f rmerly the clergy of Amsterdam , which may be called the mother of your

Reformed Church in America, used to meet , the Church Council desire to

receive you with a few words of welcome . We know that you are come

to see the tomb oi our great naval hero de Ruyter . We can very well un derstand e that ou , who feel ourself bound by anc stral ties to the old of e ubli c of nited nation the p the Netherlands, from which the United as States of America borrowed their name , are proud of the connection , we are to acknowledge you one of the descendants of our glorious ” forefathers . E Roosevelt then walked through the m nificent choir to the lofty marble ag to tomb, on the sides of which hung the fa ed wreaths, placed, from time of s - time , by the princes and rulers the earth , on the la t resting place of ’ Holland s great son . E E Silent and with bared head , Roosevelt stood for some moments in the of TH shadow the great monument . Then he descended into E CRYPT ’ contai ni n u ter s of and viewed the coffin de R y remains, by the light the lantern suspended from the m o of the vault . E E - - Coming outside again from the resting place of the dead , the ex presi dent found himself suddenly in the centre of the busy traffic, all the principal thoroughfares radiating from the Dam . E ’ Was E it not characteristic of Mr . Roosevelt s penetration that his second visit should be to THE LARGEST DIAMOND -CUTTING WORKSHOPS of the town and likewise of the world ? Before the windows of the work a shops stood dense crowd of cutters and repairers in their blue smocks , - sm all and also among the women polishers of the diamond chips, the visit - of the ex president of the United States caused great excitement . Nodding ’ kindly he entered this wonderful place, in which millions of guilders worth of or precious stones were being worked , on show in their rou h state of THE direct from the mines . Here were the models CULLIN now w E ’ E adorning the cro n of ngland s king, and the xcelsior, before that the 40 most famous diamond in the world . Mr. Roosevelt could not look enc u h i no f at all the interesting things to be seen , could f nd words su ficient express his admiration . E off h all - After this he raced to the large , where the ex president would for

. of the first time address the Dutch people To the strains the old anthem , N assauwe Wilhelmus van , played on the organ , he was escorted , through of a the dense mass of people, by a number students , we ring the red white ’ colours .The and blue , Holland s national chairman of the meeting addressed as : E E E THE him follows W LCOM HOM , IN COUNTRY OF YOUR

- LEUVEHAVEN ER M . T OF T H E H L M E ROTT DA , RO TERDAM OL AND A ERICA LIN I N HE B T ACKGROUND . E E FOR FATH RS . You have a Dutch name and belong to the Dutch

Reformed Church . But this is not all . When we remember what men has Holland given to the United States , what moral , religious and political i influences emanating from us , have been ingrafted on you , we somet mes feel inclined to connect some of the great qualities characterizing you , your ” s htforw ardn ess . E earne tness and your strai , with your Dutch extraction E The immense audience ad risen at these words, and gave their famous E kinsman an ovation which shook the walls . E And what is he sa ing now ? An address to the Dutch nation “ Chair ost ! man , and you my , and my kinsfolk You have indeed made me

. r i nvi tati on at first feel at home in Holland I hesitated about accepting you , 4] ’ because l to say . , am sorry , I don t speak Dutch But perhaps you will be

good enough to pardon me speaking to you , as I must . It is nearly three i centur es ago that my people left Holland , to take part in the foundation of was - - what then the tiny trading fort of New Amsterdam , and I am very sorry they ever changed the name, and wished it could have been hel E My forefathers did all they could to stop it . E And now I am back , bringing with me my son , who represents the ninth

eneration from the original Roosevelt , who came from Holland to New g m s rd - te am . When my people went to New Amsterdam , the great Admiral l - dal was de Ruyter, whose tomb have visited to , not yet born ; and the 5 y un great painter Frans Hals , whose pictures I all soon see , had not be ew to paint and they were unknown names , when my people went to the E World . E The Chairman , my special host , was kind enough to allude to his belief,

that I have kept some of the tricks of my forefathers , and I hope I have . ’ son I trust my , my children and children s children will still keep some of the tricks of the men and the women who made Holland illustrious amon

the nations . E As I told you , I unfortunately cannot speak Dutch , and the only Dutch - son l . that I know, is a baby g learned from my grandfather Now I am afraid

the pronunciation has been changed in the course of seven generations . E It runs as follows : E -toont es ,, Trippel trippel j b oont es ,, Kippen in de j Koet es ,, j in de klaver Paard es ,, j in de haver Eend es w ater l as ,, j in de p ’ ki n r Wou dat t dje g ooter was . E You see by this , I still know a little Dutch , even if I cannot pronounce

it . And now , my friends , it is such a pleasure for me to be amongst ou .

I come from a great free Republic to the home of my forefathers , of w om

it may be said , that they were among the very first , to establish freedom

as . we now understand the word You , my friends , here at home in Holland ,

have stood , as we in America have stood , for religious and civil liberties

h . and you have stood for it not only without fear, but wit good sound sense You have realised that with liberty there must be good order ;that the first

e . flow of liberty is that license , which itself forbids the r turn of tyranny My friends , you have taught the lesson which all the world must learn that no

man can escape being governed , and either must govern himself or some bo else will have to do it for him l” E d ' E yhen the enthusiasm reached its hei ht . But most of the ournali sts ’ n lish acknowledge that Roosevelt s American g is difficult for utch ears ,

especially when he raps out every word like a blow from a sledge hammer . so was ed Yet his listeners became excited that , as soon as his address finish , they crowded outside and took up their positions again to uproariously 42

' W ENCE H U H . ST. LA R S ROTTERDAM . C RC unfortunate Hague police were completely routed . The public rushed after l as bi him , cheering lusti y . Another dense mass, quite g as the former, wait i . ng in the vestibule , were rending the air with their applause Laughing as as and still looking brisk and lively ever after his tremendous exertions , of the great man passed between the rows people , his hat continually - . r was w des cribing circles in the air A cou t carriage in waitin , and it as t w as ug) only after great difficul y that he able to enter it , the p lic hangin on to the wheels , so to say . They tapped on the windows , looked throu them , cheering and waving all the time . ” “ - E b out to . Swi n Good e , he called them Meantime the Minister van deren and a l the authorities were still struggling to force a way through ’ carri a hi s the people . Then Roosevelt s e drove awa to hotel , where am on ti l e i THERED g decorat ons, D CH TULIP his favourite flowers

eete i ll i m . st on so And ill the crowd outside went applauding, that before retiring he was forced to appear on the balcony once more . Meanwhile his private for secretaries were waiting him in the adjoining rooms , ready to receive his last instructions for continuing the nightly work entailed by the - voluminous correspondence , which everywhere haunts the ex president like a nightmare . E a its Next morning, the Roosevelt family saw the Roy l residence in E fla i n nd of e holiday garb . ver where were fl a festoons gre n hanging, E L A ’ g y SS U . As out in honour of PRIN J NA S F RS BIRTHDAY he drove , flower- - i a girl pushed her way to the ex president , offer ng him a dais - - flower ut his . the juliana , which he in button hole But he was later than usua and to the great consternation of the author i ' wait n . to ro ected ities for him , Mr Roosevelt telegraphed postpone his p a wi visit to De ft , referring to drive through the H gue with his e and - children , seate in a court carriage . For this is one of the most charming so towns in our country , and much patronized by foreigners that , in the one E 5 tourist season , hears more nglish , French and German oken than

. of whi Dutch Tourists will find here eve degree comfort, e the will ’ of olland s old be at the same time , in a centre history, our beauti l oid our architecture, old and oung generations Of painters , our typical Dutch sea landscape, close to the unes and the ; in the residence of Queen Of ’ Wilhelmina and our Royal baby, the seat the nation s government , t s where Parliament mee s , and the diplomatic representative of all nations E have their abode . E i s to r its It very pleasant take a st oll through the Hague , with old and s ui et modern beauties ; its spacious square , plantations and parks ; the o ulent t demeanour of its population , dignified and , with the s ylis l t 0 dressed ladies ;the numerous s rangers , on all which the splendour of t e Court seems reflected ; ladies and entlem en of independent means taking staid and leisurely walks ; the num ers of motor-cars and broughams ;the outlan dish pomp of a complete corps diplomatique the well -kept shops ;the 45 charming surroundings of woods and sand dunes ; the remarkable figures a — Of artists nd politicians all this entices one to pleasant promenading . Y O E But also UR M NTAL CRAVING will find plenty to satisfy it , if only in the numerous old buildings that go to make an architectural jewel of E this city . E I n to en o order j the fresh air, cheered on all sides , the great American THE THE E drove to BO CH (WOOD) AT HAGU , which is about two onds miles across , with splendid old trees , and lakes , of a most idyllic th h . TEN 1 7 c aracter Amidst the woods rises H IS BOSCH , the century of summer residence, built for the Princess Amalia Solms , consort of Prince acob Frederick Henry , by the celebrated van Kampen ; and since then l used as a country seat by the Royal am i y . Here was held the first Peace

Co nference . Here it was the Roosevelts left their carriage and lingered m a nifi for some time in the octangular Orange Hall , with its cupola and g E centl painted walls . E T e Old Scheveningen Road , a beautiful avenue, about miles 1 668 Z long, constructed as earl as , runs past the stately orgvliet Park , B E E where the international AC PALAC is nearing completion , to the - E E E world famous watering lace SCH V NING N, which attracts more and more visitors , amon w om are many Americans , some even comin in - V their own yachts . fter this the ex president paid a few friendly isits and , accompanied by his wife and children , was given a long private - audience by the Queen Mother at the Palace . Meanwhile at his hotel a E continual stream of notable visitors called and left cards .

E Of the many i nteresti n museums Mr . Roosevelt rightly elected to visit ’ : MAURITSH the famous IS , containing Rembrandt s earlier and later of works , paintings by Vermeer Delft , Frans Hals , Gerard Dou , Frans van Mi eri s the younger, Paulus Potter, an Steen and many other Dutch master H b O . pieces ; beautiful canvases bein , Rubens, van D k , etc E hurri e - to And after lunch , a visit by motor car TH OLD TOWN OF

E Maartensz . 1 651 D LFT where Claas van Roosevelt was born , who in - crossed the ocean to New Amsterdam . Few towns have preserved the i ctures ue typically Dutch tone and aspect in their q canals, to such a de as i ts gree this one , famous all over the wor d for blue and coloured ware 1 7th 1 8th has and china, made in the and centuries , the secret of which since been lost . Then from an historical point of view, Delft is of a most ’ interesting character, for in this town will be seen the Prinsenhof (Prince s Of Court) formerly a convent , afterwards the palace the Princes of Orange , o where William the Silent , the founder of our national independence, p ul arl THE E THE E 1 84 p y called FATH R OF FATH RLAND, was killed in 5 E an assassin , hired with Spanish money . lg w as Of - who His mausoleum the object of the visit the ex president , was of ue equally impressed by the environment the pictures little town , as by of O the sacred quiet this noble church , in the vaults which all the mem bers of the House Of Orange are laid to rest . E 46 R . DORD ECHT V IEW O F T H E TOWER . 47 E The bells of the old tower still ring out their chimes with undiminished “ ’ ” energy , to the same national anthems of the Silent s time . E Roosevelt remained a long time in deep contemplation before the tomb of HUGO D E GROOT (GROTIUS) on which the American deputation - placed a wreath on the occasion of the first Peace Conference . E E s of But other obligations claimed the pre ence the great man , represent

- A V . H SH M E IEW IN GOUDA T E FI ARK T . owerful ative of the Union , who thereupon returned to the Royal town , where short y afterwards he held a rece tion till late in the evening . One — of the things that specially struck the utch whose wine-cellars have - — ever been well stocked was that here , and at the various banquets he was - HIS E E E present at, the ex president stuck to IC D WAT R . - E . At this reception , Mr Roosevelt assured the Town Council that the way in which he had been received by his kinsfolk in Holland , would ever remain in his memory . He had been told that Holland and the Dutch had 48 never quite rec overed from the consequences of the Oppression in the

o . now ve Napoleonic peri d But he knew better, having been able to Obser that there was no longer any uesti on of decadence ; that Holland can do notwithstandi r s r g reat things , g t e oppre sion of forme centuries ; that our small country was inhabitehby a people possessed of great activity and s of trength mind , culture and energy, and that Holland ma well be proud of the Royal Town in its position as the centre of a mi h international won e movement. On returning to his own country , he d certainly mak a point of communicating hi s favourable impressions of the great Dutch

- TH E S . ALKMAAR . CHEE E MARKET to to r so nation their, and his own fellow count ymen in America ;and far as to stren h it depended on him , he would be leased do his art towards eni n the pleasant and FRIEND L RELATIONS B ’ FWEEN THE Tgtl 0

. was of NA ONS It quite late and he had shaken hundreds hands, when was u the cheers again ascended to the rooms of the hotel , where he abo t

. to on l to to retire Twice he had a pear the ba cony, in response enthusiastic

o saw to e . E demands , before the pe p e fit return to their respective hom s ” E na on his What endurance l we jour lists cried , as we followed Tedd I O E E UT OF triumphal tour, W TH UR TONGU S POSITIV LY HANGING ’ a t ht at OUR MOUTHS . For an ordinary mortal it takes ortni s holiday east see n our n n wi I e but l , to somethi g of country, and eve the he take hom 49 a - d it o very superficial impression , but Teddy, the record traveller, finishe ff - - - i n . To a couple of fourteen hour stretches day , between eleven and live , h e did the rest without so much as foregoing his lunch . At full 5 eed he of motors through the most picturesque part North and South olland , sees the pictures Of Frans Hals in Haarlem , those of Rembrandt in Amster d am en o s of our countr and , after havin j ed the quinte sence steps into g i m 0 n the train that hurries to Denmark and Sweden , in real merica or - “ t l ! o TH rather Roosevelt e . Right away There he g es AT E RATE OF

60 MILES AN HOJR. E - - The ex president dashes along in his motor car . having lost the car with - . t his family in it , without noticing it Only a few dog tired journalis s manage r h r to keep up with him , throu the wooded dist icts , across the Rhine . up - o on EY E t di ni and down the sand dunes Katwyk , to L D N , tha Old , prim , g ’ fi ed of rofound - stronghold Holland s science , the seat of the world famous Wi to University , presented by liam of Oran e , as a tribute the gallantry of ani ards the citizens , in defending the city from the and finally routing the ni versit r besiegers by cutting the dykes . From this B y schola s of such i m as : D odonaeus Salm ati us Ruh nken mortal fame Scaliger, Hugo Grotius , , , ,

W ttenbach Boerhave Gom arus . r y , , Arminius , , etc have shed their light ove f E the whole o urope . And though a terrible gunpowder explosion destroyed of old s a great number the houses , many venerable architectural treasure - old . NO have still been preserved in this Dutch town wonder then , that ue amidst such pictures environments , the genius of Rembrandt van Rijn , ’ FATHE S ression born in HIS MILL , first found ex here, and among

En elb rechtsz . an whose followers were Cornelis g , ucas van Leyden , j van Metsu Mi eri s an Goyen , Gerard Dou , Gabriel , Frans van , j Steen , etc . some Of whose pictures may still be seen in the rooms of the Lakenha! Cloth

. Gravestei n but( Hall) The sixteenth century Town Hall , , a block of dings 1 200 Old datin from the year ;the Universit , established in the convent Of the bite Nuns ; a number Of Roman cyurches city ateways ;patrician houses in the Dutch style of the Renaissance , all com ine to m ake a walk through this town an historical art pilgrimag e. E E At re lar intervals pleasant excursions can be m ade from here b means 0 one of the well -kno wn Carsjens steamers THROUGH TH E s so DUTCH WAT RLAND on canals, lakes and pool , peculiarly typical our A of country that I have been told of some mericans who , having taken - this trip , cabled to their friends in the New World to join them at once, and share in the deli htful sensation of novelty produce d in this qua intly e Dutch region so unlifie anything the had ever se n before. E has IM THE E E T F THE Besides this , Leyden A CL TO INT R S O E AM RICANS . In evidence of which we notice here one of the man me s thei r fellow- r erent morial bronze tablets , all pre ented b count ymen to di acknowled NFLUENCE THE N laces , in ent of the OF DUTCH O E Has am HISTORY OF ERICA . not the American historian Willi Greffi s E an e e on Elliot , an nglishm by birth , rec ntly said that nowher their 50

How from whom Pennsylvania took its name, had a Dutch mother. man Americans are there who know that Buffalo was founded by the Dute under the name of New-Amsterdam ? E The ex resident saw Haarlem at its most striking time : a large show D UTC E of FLOW RS being held in the Old wood , just outside the town , called the Hout . E E of The chairman presented Mr. Roosevelt with a silver model the a fl as one M ower, he happened to be the hundred thousandth visitor, anytold him among other things that Kilos of tuli s and other Dutch bulbs are shipped every year from the nei hbourhoo of Haarlem to not to America , and that even more would be sent , i they were liable customs duty . E row 1 4 As it is, we already million Kilos of them , which are exported - to all parts of the world . n the course Of the walk through the show grounds, - hter . the ex president noticed a bed Of tulips, named after his dau Alice E In the 1 3 th century Town -Hall the TEN FAMOUS PI URES OF - FRANS HALS were much admired , all portraits of citizen soldiers and of a governors, affording a most complete survey of the work this classic l master who is generally mentioned first after Rembrandt . Roosevelt stood one - before each , a considerable time, his hand binocular fashion before

! . E his eyes, apparent fascinated by the power of these Dutch portraits E - This Town Hal contains man treasures , also of an historical nature, among which are THE VERY FI ST PRINTING PROOFS (Printing w as anszoon of : invented b Laurens J Coster, a native Haarlem) such as the

Mirror of uman Salvation , the Abecedarium , the Donates etc . The keeper ’ of the Records inform ed the ex-president that one of Haarlem s streets is ROOSEVELD STRAAT Rooseveld called VAN after Lambert van , born in

1 488 Of . , burgomaster the town , who was killed in the Spanish siege The ex-president was so interested in listening to these particulars that he

to . made straight for the journalists, requesting them note all this down Amid a shower of flowers he re-entered his car and was driven back to THE RI KS- E Amsterdam in order to pay a special visit to J MUS UM, where - : in this famous art collection , he would be enabled to view its chief lory ’ at il ! Rembrandt s Night Watch . Before this masterpiece Roosevelt s s ent of for about fifteen minutes . And the director the Museum afterwar s remarked that he had seldom seen a visitor show so much emotion . He of not seemed quite oblivious his surroundings , accordingly they would obtrude with any conversation . A moment later, cheers in the street again - E announced that the ex president had resumed his journey . ’ h r f of E J . Six s collection o pictures next claimed the attention the distin nishe(prvivisaittoer and here he was shown a LETTER FROM PRESI

D EN M . WASHINGTON written to rs van Winter, wife of the man who

' this ex ui site . had acquired q collection of old Dutch masters , to which Mr

Roosevelt devoted particular attention . E a Heeren racht re Fin lly he went into a house at the Bend of the g , to admi 52 TH E P P H H . O N B U RINCI AL GATE O R AR O R. 53 ' the ei hteenth century interior of one of the patrician MERCHANTS

PALAg ES. E - - t e At the dinner table, the ex president questioned those about him , garding the many places of interest Holland possessed and which he was to Of not able see in his flying trip throu h the country . And no doubt one RO B M the first places mentioned was RDA , the Dutch city which , from i s its an American point of view, most important for its shipping and com merce , and where , more than anywhere else, representatives of American interests have established themselves . Unexpectedly , however, the great st a s te man was compelled to cancel his projected visit . And this was a

Z B D ROMED A I S E . ENKHUI EN . HAR OUR WITH R TOW R not to on pity , for a more picturesque seaport is be found the whole con - - ti nent . It is a veritable hive of industry , where many voiced steam syrens , ’ heav the booming of ores tumbling into the ships holds , the rattling of of trains and the rumb ing waggons join in a titanic chant of labour, - resounding night and day . A work town also in its aspect . For, like a ] d eveIO i n li m bs youthful worker, with strong p g growing out of his clothes , so has g o- ahead flourishing Eotterdam during the last years grown out of old the narrow confines of the inner town , and spread in every direction , especially alongside the Maas , that great river, with its hundreds of ships

loading and discharging , constantly requiring enlargement of docks, length eni ng of quays and more modern machinery . E E ' For the endless processions of gigantic steamers , coming up from the 54 sea h through the skilfully cut New Waterway, are ea er to disc arge thei r as - cargoes as rapidly possible into the lighters and hine barges . These floating warehouses then car the goods along the rivers into the heart of the Continent ; the trains on t e quays are for ever bein loaded by cranes throu fiout E and tips, whence panting locomotives draw them g urope, while e on to the ships again seek the high s as, their way distant countries , there to discharge their t etum -cargoes and be loaded anew with goods for Wt h a . transit, will be g ain landed at Rotterdam

SN EEK. T H E E WATER GAT . E of on The magnificence the shipping activity this broad stream , along side of which the town spreads ever farther in a clear-cut silhouette ;the - on colour play the ever changing water, under the Dutch skies ;the grand of s vision the e always crowded GIGANTIC DOCKS , surrounded by tower of - ing walls Of merchandise, being handled by thousands dock labourers

and carried away by long files Of waggons, drawn by trains of sturdy - — l . draught horses the time does not al ow me, Mr Roosevelt, to give an of adequate description this all , which must always have remained far E below the amazing i m ressi on Of your own contemplation . E He who wishes to Enow Holland in its most powerful activity ; in the e its o i - i ts of full lement of b undless, t de governed water ; in innate love 55 — o THEBOOMP ES a shipping should g and walk along j in Rotterd m , where ’ i over the the old merchants palaces still stand , and around he docks , num berless bridges ; or board a ferry-boat or a tug and so take part in the vast - traffic . water on the Maas For it is the unanimous Opinion of all foreigners, n nor Of sea or that neither the Thames in Londo , any the big continental p gts

THE O LD EHOVE. ou a international traffic , should walk along the old c nals , which form THE ly P OLD DOCKS OR INLAND SHI PING, wherein lie the typically fi shi n - Dutch ships , barges , hoys and g smacks all moored closely to ether, their rand angular shapes carefully tarred , painted and decorate their bright y coloured and primitive orn amentation showing up in curious ai f contrast nst the sober dark brown o their massive hulls . as was E Rotter am , situated it is on the New Maas , , like Amsterdam , originally a fishing and seafarin vill e ; and moreover, since the com l ti on of a gh rou w s of 28 d au h p e the New W terway, g hich hips feet r g t 56 i n es two h as r can reach the docks from the sea l s than hours , g own to a town of over inhabitants . E it e e E Through its favourable situation , Offers the largest steam rs a saf c entrance and eve ry facility for quickly discharging their argoes . The loadi n and the vessels can find anchorage , unloading berths at buo s in

3 . the river itself, which extend in a me for over miles Further the ave a 43 000 of s s at their dispos l meters qua s and , up to the pre ent , acre Maashaven c . of lock basins Among these latter s the , the largest in the havi n a i n ak world , an area of u re meters , the m ing of which nearly the w Ole of the village of atend recht was dug away . But the traffic which is constantly increasing, demands ever more room and to

. N GROUW SAILI G ON THE FRI S IAN LAKES. Waalh aven meet this need , the is in course of construction , which , when of EE A E com leted , will cover an area more than THR MILLION SQU R pE ME RS E . OF WAT R All these docks and qua s have steam , hydraulic - 0 . and electric cranes , with a total lifting power Kilos Immense - for railway goods yards stretch out behind them . Wharves and sheds the sto ag e Of goods along the q uays cover a space of about square megers . g E t f e To give ou an idea of the extent of the shipping ra fic , I may m ntion that in 1 9500 sea-farin ships arrived in Rotterdam with a tonn e of more than 1 0 millions ; w hi e the total number of inland ships was rigeoo c acit with a y of 25000000 cubic meters . E E Thus ggotterdam i s the city that makes Holland known to th i n its m ightiest mod ern achievements . E e s I E -T IN OTO T h Num rou DYLLIC WAT R RIPS M RBOA S On the Sc ie, 57 s o ortunit for the Rotte , the Maas and the Lek afford visitor an p y enjoying tw n - the Dutch landscape alongside the rivers . Onward ge ee wood sawing - - of windmills , and past little doll like houses older meadows full cattle, - azi n O ERSCHIE. a g here far below the water level , to The small ste mer

. E hat lies to and from here , benefits considerably by American tourists E ose THE C to it, on the road to Schiedam , the town where DUTCH e GIN is distilled , lies Delfshaven , whose principal attraction is the R t ers il ri m a es for formed Church , to which many orei make g , it was at this spot that the ENGLISH PILG FATH Rg who were d riven E be from York , worshipped for the last time on uropean soil , fore settin 2ud 1620 - sail on July , , for North America , where they founded the firs New England settleme nt at Plymouth . A me morial stone i n the pret little church i s dedicated to their memory. g uar E Another trip is to Dordrecht . The s e grey tower rises splendidly olg o from the silhouette of this picturesque t wn , within whose confines are e e s and n b a still sheltered some r markabl picture ma y e utiful , ancient buildings . erwede the o the E Going on by way of the M , b at steams up broadest stream f ur count r D THE E o o the tremendous Hollandsch Die , spanned MO R DYK BRID G? with its fourteen arches of 1 meters eac a wonder of en i nee rai lwa Z hydraulic g ri n Over this bridge the leads into eeland . the province in which tfie struggle between land an water i s most strongl e s sti yI exemplified , and where the picturesqu provincial style of dres is E most held in veneration . E h -m anufac From Rotterdam to GOUDA , the ome of the Dutch cheese Forei ture and the patriarchal cla churchwardens (pipes) . ners will be ’ i aev al attracted by the Church of t . Jan , a remarkable relic of me days it - - th e architecture, with s world famed stained glass windows , most beau tiful of which were w rou ht by the Crabeth Brothers in the XVlth centu In et i s - -Ha the centre of the mar lace the sublime late Gothic Town l , us and facing the beautiful Weigh o e, decorated with an exquisite fresco l . E E y Barth ggers . é P Close to it lies BOSKOO , the town of the nurseries , which provides ’ i ld r f America every year with hundreds of thousand e s wort h o shrubs . as fitti n l And a finish to this superficial survey , resident Rooseve t will t f o! o our of E . E have been northern provinces , especially FRI SLAND E The journey thither will be found equal! interesting taken by land or sea . ou ou i n Should , however, decide upon t e latter, y must the first W lace take tram to HOORN , a pleasant Old town ith many ancient. often ifull geaut of t . decorated sl anting housefronts . It can boast a glorious pas 1 580 illem was b who s In Schouten orn here , was the fir t navigator that E THE E OF ME i DOUBL D SOUTH RNMOST POINT A RICA, wh ch he

hi s . an Pi etersz . n christened after native town Cape Horn j Coen , the fou d of E -I was . er our ast ndian Colonies , also a native of the same place E E You then proceed on your journey , through the most fertile, and there 58

of - e fore wealthiest part North Holland , where the farmhous s are on a lavish E on scale , until the train lands you at NKHUIZ EN . But before going board tne ou steamer, y should take a walk through the quiet little town , whence - formerly a fleet of 400 vessels used to leave for the herring fish eri es . It was in those bygone days of rosperity and luxu that all the noble old houses (now mostly silent an empty) were built . he colossal Dromme daris after four centuries remains as a memento of the great wall that en has circled the town . This dead little town on the Z uyderzee still many E more treasures of architecture to reveal . E Now the solidly built litt le steamer will take you across the broad ’ waters of Holland s inland sea to Friesland , where you alight at Stavoren , now in the early Middle A es the seat of the princes of the region , but in its decline . Within t ree quarters of an hour the train carries you to EE E r now ta L UWARD N , the Old capital of the F isians , the flourishing capi l h as its of the province, which , with its language , the idiosyncrasies of and so population , many Old customs , untouched b foreign influence, maintained a proud position all its own , in the land . ven in the peculiar sturd dress of the fresh , often very beautiful Frisian women , which in l its the town , especia y among the upper classes, may have lost many of e characteristics ; but in the gold casques under the lace caps , the long, ' erall ackets h on oure n y green and the charming neckerchiefs , is still in countr - the n market days at Leeuwarden , when the farmers and their women -to k come sailing or driving into town from all parts of the pro d i s vince , some in high , elegantly built and beautifully painted or carve g g , a di sfi ure ou have plenty to fe st your eyes on . Unless the women g their yeaddress . E , by putting a gaudy bonnet on top of it bui ldi n i E The most important public in Leeuwarden , which is v sited by useum contai ni n of numerous Americans , is the Frisian , a collection uiti es whi c ou anti gathered from the surrounding districts , will give y a - 00 insight into the venerable Frisian folk lore . EE a From Leeuwarden by railway to SN K. And there , in the l ke district, see Friesland is at its best . Those who desire to the most characteristic es beauty Of this region , should sail over the lak of Sneek , Pik near Grouw,

Fl uessen euke . Hee er, , Sloten , Tj and other lesser waters At Sneek you sai li n ou to can ire craft of all kinds , in which can also make a trip the f - ho o E . woods ORA J WOUD These wide la es , with their s in full sail , i n al l the midst Of the green plains , with their farms and win mills , the streams bordered by wavin rushes , between which iris and convolvulus - s bloom ; with little inlets , w ere the flowering bulrushes and water lilie abound they are indeed wonderfully charmin And in this water O! F land , which has so long been isolated , the risian customs are so i s faithfully preserved ; the Frisian language , which however, holds In s i ts own nearly everywhere in the Frisian country . the last few year i s so an increasing interest shown in this language, closely allied to the - Anglo Saxon . 60 V Z EE - EERE, LAND. T H E TO WN HALL 61 E i its e n o But Fr esland is at very b st in wi ter, when the wh le population E forsake their occupations to go skating on the wide canals and lakes .

E On the ev ening of the same day that Teddy had rattled and dashed - E . throu h the country , he proceeded on his record journe through urope f r E A ense crowd awaits him at the station . A minute e o e the time of ’ - . ovi al departure , the Roosevelt family appears With a smile , the ex pre “ sident wishes the Dutch journalists GOOD-BY Behind him quite a - procession of secretaries and American reporters . Official leave taking of the authorities . Shaking hands with the members of the American colon A to of : nd stepping on the platform his saloon , once more E “ I am taking with me the most pleasing recollections of Holland and the Dutch people ;and I am deeply touched by the spontaneous expressions

. Prouder than of friendship , especially those from the common people ever of of my descent I leave the beautiful country of my kinsfolk , the country ” - E old traditions , art treasures and modern young energy l ” E Three cheers for Tedd l shouted the Americans . And the Hollanders ” i ned in a sincerely-felt t reefold : H urraaaay l E g Old f His powerful personality left a void in good Holland. A thrill o modernism seemed to have passed through the whole nation . E

COAT OF ARMS e H THE INSCRIPTION “ VAN ROSEVEL‘I‘" UND BRN EAT I I V I MN E Y , CAR ED N WOOD ON THE CHI Rrecn i n THE ASSEMBLY -ROOM OF THE GUILDHALL B UILT I N 177 1 AT O UD -VOSSEMEER" IN Z EELAND. H OLLAND -AMERICA LIN E

REGULAR TWIN- SCREW PASSENGER SERVICE BETWEEN NEW Y O RK AND ROTTERD AM (HO LLAND )

TON S REGI STER D ISPLACEMENT TON S ” NEW TWIN -SCREW STEAMSHIP ROTTERD AM E D I RECT AND MOST CO N VENIENT ROUTE FORTRA VELLERS FROMTH E U D S A S O H O A D NITE T TE T LL N , Ol d a s C the quaint land described i n these p ges , and all point in e ntral

E . P ca i tal s s urope roceeding from Holland , the p and places of intere t E s are of several uropean countrie withi n easy reach , and excellent - a at t through tr i n connection may be made Ro terdam and other points . F O R G R A i N FO RMA TI O N U S R A D E N E L , I L L T T E

BOO S RA S SA GS P A S ETC. ET KLET , TE , ILIN , L N C. APPLY TO H OLLA N D -AMERICA LIN E E

Y . 9 D earbom . 3 9 a NEWY ORK N . E 6 C ICAG O Ill . Bro dway, , Str , H ,

84 BO TON ss . E 3 1 9 G AN F RAN State Street , S , Ma eary Street, S l NEW E CI CO a . E 2 1 9 . C OR AN La E S , C St harles Street , L S, .

C 9th . and L . ST . LO I . E 278 A ta AV NA or . ocust Str , U S , Mo par do , H A ,

1 21 0 . M E P . E 40 C . E 5 T . INN A OLI T Str . uba hird Str , S , Mi nn oronto ,

TORONTO Can. E 286 . a s ONTREAL Can . , St J me Street , M ,