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Home , Atripalda, Irpinia, Lapio, Mastroberardino, Montefalcione, Montefredane

12/12/2019

Irpinia Who’s Who with Tom Hyland The Producers of , di and di Tufo

Irpinia

• Irpinia is the name used by the producers and growers for the

• Historic name of this area

• “Non parliamo di , parliamo di Irpinia.”

• Avoids confusion with Avellino, the town and the province, as well as the wine Fiano di Avellino

• Located about 25 miles inland from the Tyrrhenian Sea and the city of Napoli –gently rolling hills, some mountains –large amount of rainfall –many believe all this rain is a large factor in quality of the area’s white wines

• Three of the 4 DOCG wines from Campania are from Irpinia: Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, Taurasi

• Three production zones –most villages where vineyards are planted can only be the source of one of the three wines (Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo)

•There are two villages where the Taurasi zone and the Fiano di Avellino zone overlap: and . In these two villages, both wines can be produced (producer – Colli di Lapio)

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Fiano di Avellino • DOCG regulations – minimum 85% Fiano, other varieties allowed are Coda di Volpe and Trebbiano Toscano –which can account for a total of 15% maximum

• Production zone –26 villages in province of Irpinia (Avellino) – Candida (pictured)

• Primarily clay and sandy soils, also some magnesium

• Vineyards – 300‐600 meters (984‐1965 feet)

• Lively acidity, but tends to be richer on palate than Greco di Tufo

• Many examples are steel fermented and aged, but several producers ferment and mature in wood

Greco di Tufo

• DOCG regulations – minimum 85%, with a maximum of 15% Coda di Volpe allowed • Production zone in Irpinia –8 communes including Tufo (named for tufaceous soils) – (pictured) • 11.5% minimum alcohol –there is also a Greco di Tufo spumante – 12% minimum • Vineyards are generally located between 300 and 650 meters a.s.l. (985 to 2130 feet)

• High presence of limestone in soils • Most versions fermented and aged in steel –very good acidity, and distinct minerality • Age extremely well in cool years such as 2010, 2013, 2018 ‐ also in moderately warm years such as 2015

Taurasi

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Pergola Avellinese/Raggiera

Taurasi

Taurasi

• DOCG regulations – 85% minimum ; other local red grapes (usually ) up to 15% ‐ most examples are 100% Aglianico • First mention of this grape appears on documents from 16th century • However, it is accepted that Aglianico is an ancient Italian variety • 17 different communes in northern and northeastern Irpinia –clay, limestone and volcanic soils • Must be aged for at least three years before release, with 12 months in wood • Taurasi Riserva –4 years aging, 18 months in wood • Generally long‐lived wines, with firm tannins and good acidity. Flavors of black cherry and dark chocolate. Best examples age for three to five decades () • Campi Taurasini – Irpinia Campi Taurasini DOC – 85% minimum Aglianico – minimum 9 months aging

Mastroberardino

• Historic winery of Irpinia – established in 1878 • Original family name Berardino –prefix “Mastro” (master) was added more than 200 years ago

• Antonio Mastroberardino was the individual most responsible for saving native varieties in Irpinia – especially Greco and Fiano – just after WWII

• Today his son Piero continues his work

• Most famous for Taurasi –the classic representation – originally aged solely in large casks • Today a combination of large and small casks

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Mastroberardino Taurasi

• March 2014 –tasting of 6 Decades of Taurasi at their cellars. Wines tasted were: 1957, 1961 Riserva, 1970 Riserva, 1985, 1996 Riserva, 2006 Riserva

• 1957 – “remarkable freshness; a wine of stunning grace and harmony / 15‐20 years of life ahead of it, but perhaps as much as 20‐25 years. A great, great wine.”

Mastroberardino

• Also produces excellent whites

• Fiano di Avellino “Radici” • Greco di Tufo “Nova Serra”

• Also limited releases of Fiano di Avellino and Greco (referred to as “” –same wines as classic, but are held back longer in bottle at winery)

• Fiano Passito “Melizie”

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Feudi di San Gregorio (Fiano di Avellino)

• Established in 1986 by Capaldo and Ercolino families – currently managed by Antonio Capaldo

• One of the largest producers in all of Campania –3.5 million bottles per year

• Shook things up in Campania, especially with white wines –later –riper fruit –more appealing wines to a larger audience

• First to produce single vineyard releases of Irpinian whites –Greco di Tufo (Cutizzi) and Fiano di Avellino (Pietracalda)

Feudi di San Gregorio

Fiano di Avellino (classic and cru – Pietracalda)

Greco di Tufo (classic and cru – Cutizzi –pictured)

Campanaro –blend of Fiano and Greco

Taurasi – classic and cru –Piano di Montevergine

Feudi di San Gregorio DUBL Metodo Classico

• Sparkling wine project started at Feudi in 2004

• Metodo classico –three separate versions

• Greco (now labeled as DUBL+), Falanghina and Aglianico

• For the first several of Greco, Anselme Selosse was employed as consulting winemaker

• Current release of 2015 DUBL+ is excellent –each received two glasses from Gambero Rosso in the 2019 guide

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Pietracupa

• Artisan estate in Montefredane – 25,000 bottles

• Sabino Loffredo –highly respected by all producers in Irpinia

• Best known for Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino

• Montefredane is the “Pauillac” of Fiano villages

• Literally across the road is a Greco village (Prata di Principato Ultra)

• No treatment – tremendous purity

Ciro Picariello (Fiano di Avellino)

• One of the very best producers of Fiano di Avellino • Sources grapes from estate vineyards at Summonte and Montefredane ‐ situated at 650 and 500 meters respectively

• Two versions of Fiano • Classic –10 months of lees stirring – stainless steel treatment only –3 months bottle aging before release • Fiano 906 –this is a strict selection of the best grapes and receives 12 months of lees stirring and ages in the six additional months before release

• Has recently started to produce Greco di Tufo

Donnachiara Montefalcione (Fiano di Avellino)

• Ilaria Petitto is CEO –she and her mother Chiara manage the winery –est. 2005 • Produce versions of Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino and Taurasi • Also Aglianico (Campania and Irpinia) • High tone fruit with the whites –very good acidity –no wood

• New offerings of Fiano di Avellino –Empatia –and Greco di Tufo –Aletheia are now produced in best vintages – selection of best grapes –harvested later – nuttier, spicier examples –richer texture

• Riccardo Cotarella is consulting enologist

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Petilia Altavilla (Greco di Tufo)

• Teresa Bruno ‐artisan producer of Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino –great varietal purity

• Her standard Greco is as accomplished as any in Irpinia • More floral than most – subtle minerality – notes of cinnamon • Ages beautifully ‐2009 is tasting out great now

• Also produces Greco di Tufo 4 20 – spends three weeks on skins and is fermented in wood

• Also a small amount of Fiano di Avellino – distinct minerality

Villa Diamante Montefredane (Fiano di Avellino)

• Artisan estate – 10,000 bottles, primarily Fiano di Avellino along with a small amount of Taurasi • Started by Antoine Gaeta from Belgium –he passed away about 5 years ago‐ winery now run by his widow Diamante Renna and winemaker Vincenzo Mercurio

• Most famous wine –cru Fiano –Vigna della Congregazione – tremendous concentration – lush, opulent style, but always stainless steel • After a few years introduced another cru Fiano –Clos d’Haut (”the higher vineyard”) –much more French‐like, reminiscent of a Grand Cru Chablis

Traerte Montefredane

• Formerly known as Vadiaperti • Proprietor is Raffaelle Troisi • Very distinctive versions of Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino –selezione and cru

• Greco di Tufo “Tornante” • Fiano di Avellino “Aiperti” • Great varietal purity with excellent texture and complex aromas (broom, anise)

• Also produces one of the best examples of Coda di Volpe (“tail of the fox”) – “Taorama” • Blending variety typically, but for Troisi a wine of vibrant acidity and concentration

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Terredora di Paolo Montefusco (Greco di Tufo)

• Owned and managed by Mastroberardino family • Dispute within family in 1970s‐ Terredora established in 1978 by Walter and is children Daniela and Paolo –they were able to take ownership of many of the original Mastroberardino vineyards, while Antonio and his son Piero, kept the Mastroberardino name

•Terredora owns almost 500 acres of vineyards

• Produce several Irpinian wines –best include Greco di Tufo “Loggia della Sera” (vineyard in Montefusco (1875 ft), Fiano di Avellino “Campo Re” (vineyards ‐ Lapio and ‐ 1600 ft)

•Also three versions of Taurasi –Fatica Contadina and Pago dei Fusi – riserva Campo Re

Villa Raiano San Michele di (Fiano di Avellino)

• Owned by the Basso family –50 acres under vines – 300,000 bottles • Winemaker – Sebastiano Fortunato (formerly of Mastroberardino)

• Best known for two examples of Fiano di Avellino – Alimata (Montefredane) and Ventidue (Lapio –22 km from winery) • Calcaire‐ clay soils – Alimata contains fossils

• Entry level Fiano and Greco are among best examples in Irpinia – excellent values

• Also produce Campi Taurasini and a small amount of Taurasi as well as a sparkling Fiano/Greco blend ‐ Ripabassa

Tenuta Cavalier Pepe Sant’Angelo all’Esca (Taurasi)

• Managed by Milena Pepe –daughter of founder Angelo Pepe

• 380,000 bls

• Greco di Tufo “Nestor” and Fiano di Avellino riserva “Brancato” are best whites (Nestor‐ great varietal purity and harmony –Brancato –six months of wood aging ‐ more exotic aromas of anise and mint)

• Best wines are Taurasi –Opera Mia and La Loggia del Cavaliere riserva –both are aged in barriques for 24 months and then an additional 12 months in steel or cement before bottling

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Luigi Tecce (Taurasi)

• Artisan producer – 10,000 bottles/year • Works only with estate fruit in Paternopoli and in Taurasi zone in southern Taurasi

• “As unpredictable as his wines” – Gambero Rosso

• Oldest vines were planted in 1930s –great fruit concentration, wines of outstanding complexity and varietal character – structured for long‐term

• Matures wines solely in large casks

Luigi Tecce

• Taurasi “Poliphemo” –70 to 80 year old vines

• Taurasi “Puro Sangue” – produced from vineyard he planted 15 years ago –Riserva Taurasi

• Campi Taurasini “Satyricon”

• Tecce worked with his father until his death in 1997. The grapes from his oldest vines used to be sold to a local cooperative

• Singular wines – outstanding character

Antonio Caggiano Taurasi

• Produces Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino as well as Taurasi • Classically structured Taurasi –from a vineyard only a few hundred meters from his cellars –Vigna Macchia dei Goti • Clay‐limestone soils – 350 m • Barrique aged

•Also produces a Campi Taurasini –“Salae Domini” ‐ excellent value

• Excellent whites – especially current 2018 offerings • Greco di Tufo “Devon” • Fiano di Avellino “Béchar”

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Cantine Lonardo Contrade de Taurasi (Taurasi)

• Alessandro Lonardo –12 acres – primarily old vines – 18,000 bottles

• Winemaker is Vincenzo Mercurio

• Four versions of Taurasi: classic, riserva plus two cru – Vigne d’Alto, Coste

• Great varietal purity –cru offerings are deeply concentrated –riserva is aged in barriques – classic large casks plus cement, cru –mid‐size puncheons

• Also produces a white called Greco’Musc, but not Greco grape – Roviello – tonneaux aged

Thank You!

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