ISSUE TWENTY SEVEN • WINTER 2017 e h T HEBRIDEAN TIMES

Cycling Land of 30th over The Waterways and Anniversary Minch Windmills Season THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

CONTENTS

Hebridean Princess

News in Brief ...... 3-4 WeLCoMe To The WinTer 2017 Meet the Team ...... 5 ediTion of The hebrideAn TiMeS Fiona Spriggs, Head Housekeeper As we complete the last few cruises of what has been another very

View from the Bridge ...... 6-7 successful season, we are busy making plans for Hebridean Princess ’ Captain Richard Heaton annual refurbishment. We will be replacing the soft furnishings and carpets in a further 12 guest cabins, making a total of 24 cabins renewed Celebrating 30 Seasons ...... 8-9 in the last 2 years with the remaining 6 to be redecorated in the winter Scotlands Magical of 2018-19. Our plans also include a complete renovation of a number of West Coast ...... 10 bathrooms, where possible we will be fitting separate walk-in shower Richard Baines cubicles in addition to the bathtubs. Cycling over The Minch ...... 11 with Chris Boardman Many of our crew will soon be returning home for a well-earned rest, Land of Waterways and whilst our engineers will be hard at work over the winter servicing and Windmills ...... 12-13 undertaking essential maintenance to ensure that everything is shipshape for our first cruise in 2018. The West Coast of Scotland ...... 14 On behalf of the Captains, Senior Officers, Ship’s Company and all our Jeremy Hawkings shore-side staff, I should like to wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Luxury Scotland Happy Hogmanay. Monopoly Competition ...... 15 Reflections on Norway ...... 16 Captain Frank Bondø Louise Pratt Hebridean Times Editor

2 Cover image: Eilean Donan Castle WINTER 2017

NEWS IN BRIEF bouTique CruiSe Line of The yeAr

On Monday 18th September 2017, Food and Travel Magazine held its annual Reader Awards ceremony in the elegant 2017 surroundings of the Royal Automobile Club, Pall Mall, London. READER AWARDS It was a great night for Hebridean Island Cruises as we scooped the MA GAZINE WINNER accolade of Boutique Cruise Line of the Year. We were up against strong competition, but every vote from the Food and Travel Magazine readers counted and we would like to thank every one of We are delighted to win them for casting their vote, helping us to secure this prestigious award. this fantastic award at such a respected event - this “really does illustrate our commitment to providing the best cruise holidays in a truly unique and elegant way and is testament to our officers, crew and staff both on board and ashore. Ken Charleson, Managing director for hebridean island Cruises Lisa White (Reservations Manager), Jonathan Moffatt (Sales & Marketing Manager) and Louise Pratt (Sales & Marketing Consultant) ChAriTy Ship ViSiT ”

Regular guest, John Noorani, may be known to many of you as a very keen photographer, often opting for a quick lunch on deck while the ship is sailing so as not to miss a single shot.

John is always happy to share his photographs, many of which have appeared in Hebridean Princess brochures over the years, with other guests. In return, he asks that they give a donation to the International Otter Survival Fund, a charity John has supported from its very beginning in 1993.

With the charity based on Skye, John arranged for the founders of IOSF, Paul Yokon, John Noorani and Grace Yokon Paul and Grace Yokon, to visit the vessel and have a tour round while she was in Dunvegan in June. Paul is now Head of Operations and Grace a Director of the charity.

During the visit Paul and Grace met a number of crew including Captain Richard Heaton and kindly donated a copy of IOSF’s “Otters of the World” book for the ship’s library.

John has managed to raise over £1,000 in this way and we would like to congratulate him on his fund-raising efforts and encourage his fellow guests to “purchase” some of his wonderful images to Eurasian Otter support a worthwhile cause.

www.hebridean.co.uk 3 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

NEWS IN BRIEF

25 yeAr SerViCe LiSA WhiTe, reSerVATionS MAnAger

2nd October 1992 is firmly etched in my brain – my first day at Hebridean Island Cruises.

After training as a Chef, gaining my degree in Tourism and working in various hotels, the opportunity arose for a new challenge, although this was a complete change in my career, it was still in the hospitality industry - I jumped at the chance and 25 years later I can honestly say that I have never looked back.

In the first few years I worked for Susan and Tony Binns, founders of the Company, whose dreams of a luxury cruise ship sailing the Western Isles came to fruition. I have seen many changes over the years, but one thing that remains the same is the loyalty of our guests.

Not one day at Hebridean is the same which makes this a very special company to work for, there will not be many companies like this.

Originally from Newcastle upon Tyne with Geordie blood running through my veins, I can now honestly say that I also have Hebridean blood which I cannot get out of my system.

beST dreSSed SCAreCroW?

We would like to thank Mrs Pamela King for sending in this photograph of her husband’s old Hebridean fleece which was purchased on Hebridean Spirit in 2003, on a fabulous journey to St Petersburg, and has been worn constantly ever since. Sadly, the zip on the jacket has recently broken so the old fleece now has a new home, relegated to the scarecrow on their allotment! Mrs King wonders if this is a first for Hebridean?

if you have any news you would like to share in The hebridean Times please let us know. We would love to hear from you.

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MEET THE TEAM - fionA SpriggS, heAd houSeKeeper

It is hard to Oban with Beppo and Seona Buchanan-Smith, who I can’t compose an article thank enough for making me the head housekeeper I am about oneself. I am today. After Eriska I never thought I would find a new work just from a normal home, nothing seemed to fit until the day the I received a working class family, telephone call advising me that Hebridean Island Cruises was seeking a new head housekeeper on board Hebridean born in Chesterfield Princess . Could I follow such a hard act as (previous in Derbyshire. housekeeper) Lynn Garth after 17 years? However, I have very strong women in my My typical day begins very early polishing the brass, which I family, but my love, but after that no two days are the same. One minute I can be looking at the refit list for next year or making beds, inspiration and whatever it is there is never a dull minute and I work with passion for my the best team I have ever worked with. Everyone has been housekeeping career has been driven by one man so helpful to a total seagoing novice who thinks portholes - my father, who has always been a Hotel General are windows and still thinks the galley is a kitchen! “It all Manager leading from the front line. My Mother takes time”, says the ever patient Captain Richard Heaton. and Nan always had a family motto “ hard work The job is all about giving our guests the best holiday never kills you and be passionate about what you experience and making things as seamless as possible. do ”. Well I am. So in short, it was always obvious What are your favourite ports of call or islands to me at some stage I would do something in visited by Hebridean Princess ? hotels, although I fell into it accidentally. My most favourite port of call this season has to be St Kilda When my then husband was in the Armed Forces and I had where I stood on the Bridge at 5.30am and was moved to my daughter Rebecca (my joy), I needed to work. Working tears of joy at such a mystical place with the mist clearing in private housekeeping for senior officers, this quickly over the head land, although I didn’t feel that way during developed into working in messes, running the camp areas the crossing (I need to develop my sea legs more next and the organisation of VIP and Royal visits in liaison with season!). Also the Isle of Harris, what girl doesn’t want and the Military Commanding Officer. need a new Harris Tweed bag or two? When we left the army my hotel life started, working my What are your most memorable moments on way quickly from deputy to head housekeeper and, in 2004, Hebridean Princess ? having the joy of working alongside my father as his head housekeeper. My most memorable moments are easy, meeting all of you, our lovely guests. Of course, our guests on board Hebridean My career highlights have included gaining a degree level Princess are the best in the world, you are what have made qualification in housekeeping, winning a White Rose Award me so very happy and I can’t thank you all enough for all whilst working at the Leopold Hotel in Sheffield, opening the laughter and for making me feel so welcome this Casa Hotel in my home town of Chesterfield and of course season. Thank you. working at the wonderful 5-star Isle of Eriska Hotel outside

Village Bay, St Kilda THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

VIEW FROM THE BRIDGE by Captain Richard Heaton

Captain Richard Heaton, Richard Wilson & Chief Purser David Indge Lysefjord, Norway View from Dun Caan, Raasay

here has the cruising season gone? Setting sail on the Clyde in March seems like only yesterday, yet whilst the time has flown swiftly by, we have certainly covered some nautical Wmiles, and in doing so, met some interesting people on a journey which has taken us to some new and unique places. So, without further ado, I’d like to take this opportunity to reflect and share with you my highlights of this year…

Now, it has to be said that I am no lecturer. Hosting a our Norwegian trilogy, we experienced some of the most bridge visit is second nature, but as we prepared to sail out idyllic little villages I have ever seen and cruised along to St Kilda in mid-June something new was on the cards. some of the most awe-inspiring fjords, sailing close to I spend the best part of my working day looking at sheer rock faces as they plummet into the dark depths, weather forecasts, from my first cup of tea in the morning hundreds of metres below. It is always enjoyable to berth – until I turn in at night. I hold the weather in such high Hebridean Princess at the numerous small piers and it regard that I am constantly checking. St Kilda requires always brings a smile to my face when we see the local special consideration, the archipelago sits exposed in the villagers turn out. Initially, their expressions are of Atlantic – affording little shelter and the passage is wonderment - this majestic ship nestling amongst the susceptible to Atlantic swell. There are a lot of picture postcard wooden houses. What then follows is the considerations and decision making that goes into such a same everywhere we have cruised in Norway, such a warm passage and this time I thought I should try my hand at a and welcoming atmosphere as we set foot ashore into short lecture to guests in the Tiree Lounge. Delivering a their municipality. visual presentation on the big screen in the form of Returning to the West Coast on a Footloose walking cruise, synoptic charts, weather and swell charts, I took time to I was able to join guests on a fabulous walk on the explain how we interpret these, how we look for a ‘weather beautiful Isle of Raasay, climbing to the top of Dun Caan window’, how we decide on the route and more and enjoying panoramic views out over the Isle of Skye. importantly what sea conditions we can expect. Suffice to Needless to say, on this occasion, I did not recreate the say, as we poked the bow of Hebridean Princess into the antics of Boswell by dancing a jig on the top! Atlantic from the Sound of Harris, all was as anticipated and our shorter than normal journey meant that guests I had the good fortune to meet and talk with actor Richard awoke at anchor in Village Bay, Hirta. Wilson during filming of a documentary programme, then shortly afterwards we enjoyed the company of Nicholas Despite my loving the West Coast of Scotland, this Crane from the television series ‘Coast’ on our special summer we went further afield, taking in some amazing cruise to celebrate Scotland’s Year of History, Heritage cruising and visits in Norway. For me, it is the first time I and Archaeology. have ventured into Lysefjord, but during the final cruise of

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Sea Stac, St Kilda Hebridean Princess , Lysebotn, Norway

Marine life is always a treat as we make our way around the history and archaeology, to sample spirit made with islands and we enjoyed a magnificent spectacle at the end infusions from the sea, to learn about the Tweed with dyes of August. Never before have I seen such a large pod of harvested from the land…to see the people, who bring adult and juvenile bottlenose dolphins. As we heaved these island communities to life. anchor in the Sound of Iona, clearly visible beneath the Alas, all too soon the season is drawing to a close. We will surface, they darted all around us like sleek arrows, be heading south once more to the Clyde and our home breaking the watery silence as they leapt. As we gathered for the winter. speed, away from our anchorage en-route to Ulva, they remained with us for over half an hour – enjoying the We have had a truly exceptional season and I should like to rejuvenating effect of the bow wake. finish on a personal note - amongst our family on board Hebridean Princess we have seen some changes Having just completed my ‘Autumn Surprise’ cruise, I don’t throughout the season. As fellow colleagues move on to think we could have had a finer week. Enjoying such pastures new, I am sure you will all join me in wishing them incredibly vibrant colours of the landscape and with the very best in their future endeavours. favourable weather on our side, we certainly made the most of it - enjoying a well balanced mix of cruising and As all of us onboard gear up for a busy winter refit in visits as we made our final sail to the Outer Hebrides this Greenock, I should like to wish you all the best for the season. Not only was I keen for guests to take in the Festive Season and we look forward to seeing you in 2018. wonderful scenery, but I also wanted them to enjoy the

Tarbert, Harris www.hebridean.co.uk 7 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

CELEBRATING 30 S EASONS OF CRUISING WITH

ebridean Princess is no sleek, THE ISLANDS OF THE modern cruise liner, instead Hshe is a stately lady with CELEBRATING INNER & OUTER traditional lines – well in keeping HEBRIDES with the rugged environment in Tuesday 22nd to which she has operated for over half a century. Until October 1988 she Tuesday 29th May 2018 served as one of the ‘life lines’ to the Prices from £3,675 per person islands, operating on almost all the based on 2 people sharing an services in the Inner and Outer inside double/twin cabin Hebrides as the Caledonia SEASONS MacBrayne ferry MV Columba . 1989 - 2018

The conversion for her new cruising role, which commenced in 1989,

Ta r b e r t had been very carefully considered. A harmonious blend between HARRIS preserving a part of the islands’ transport history and providing the on board creature comforts her new role required had to be achieved. Loch Dunvegan ‘Escape’ was the original ethos behind a Hebridean Princess holiday Dun vegan Gairloch Castle Inverewe Garden and this continues to be the very essence of our cruises today. An escape from the stresses and strains of modern life to the more remote Portree Plockton SKYE parts of the British Isles where the pace of life is so much more Kyle of Lochalsh relaxed. An escape from crowds of people and holidays where you are Eilean Donan Castle just a number; individuality is a keyword to your Hebridean Princess CANNA Armadale Clan Donald cruise where, as one of only 50 guests, your fellow passengers will RUM Centre Kinloch EIGG soon be friends and the crew will soon know your name. Castle Superb views, wildlife in its natural habitat, courteous, friendly yet S o u n d unobtrusive service, chefs preparing a choice of fresh Scottish o To b e r m o r y f M u produce, fascinating shore visits including castles and gardens, private ll MULL fishing trips and speedboat rides have been at the core of every OBAN Hebridean Princess cruise for the last 29 seasons. She remains the most elegant way to experience the dramatic natural beauty of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland.

In celebration of our 30th anniversary season, we are replicating this delightful cruise which was first operated in our maiden season of 1989. With visits to six different islands, a passage to the Outer Hebrides and a visit to the world famous tropical garden at Inverewe this is a voyage which offers a truly memorable Escape.

Hebridean Princess prepares to leave oban on her maiden voyage

Hebridean Princess at Kyle of Lochalsh, May 29th 1989

8 01756 704704 Hebridean Princess brochure from 1989 WINTER 2017

HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS

ThirTy yeArS CheerS

A nice glass of whisky with one cube of ice And a portion of haggis would also be nice Such pleasures enhance this marvellous trip On this our most excellent wee Scottish ship So here’s to our Captain and his noble Crew Our wonderful chefs just cooking for you Preparers of dishes and bakers of breads Cleaners of cabins and makers of beds Here’s to our Purser and Chief Engineer And blokes on the bridge who know how to steer And men on the deck we call seamen able And those lovely people who wait at our table Ensuring our comfort as we sit to dine And ever attentive at pouring the wine This ship’s been cruising for thirty great years A Princess deserving of three hearty cheers So one for our Captain one for his Crew And might I suggest the third one for you!

© Graham Clarke 2017

graham Clarke will accompany the isles of Scilly and Celtic Coasts cruise commencing 10th July 2018 as guest speaker and kindly penned this verse in celebration of our 30th anniversary season

www.hebridean.co.uk 9 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

by Richard A. Baines SCOTLAND ’S MAGICAL WEST COAST of Logan Botanic Garden

Mediterranean plants and plants originating from South African one will observe plants that are seldom seen in the u.K. dunvegan Castle and gardens has over five acres of formal gardens which will be at their prime in mid - May. included in the garden is a water garden with its ornate bridges and islands complemented by its rich plant collection. The castle’s former vegetable garden is now elegantly landscaped and houses a diverse range of plants and features such as a glasshouse, garden museum, pond and larch pergola. A lot of restoration work has been carried out in the last thirty years to restore the garden.

richard baines with gardener’s World presenter Carol Klein Lip na Cloiche garden is beautifully situated close to the shoreline on the isle of Mull, and has stunning views of here are few horticultural spectacles that Loch Tuath and the isle of ulva. for the avant collector you will be delighted to hear that the garden has an unusual can compete with the beauty and range of plants for sale! Tsplendour of gardens along the West Coast of Scotland in early Summer. one of Scotland’s national treasures are its castles. glengorm Castle is an impressive 19th century country gardens along the western seaboard are famous for their house commanding fine views across the surrounding impressive displays of himalayan plants such as landscapes. rhododendrons, Magnolias, blue poppies and Camellias Many of the gardens that we will visit have developed as a and May will be the ideal period for viewing them at their result of personal passion for plants and hard work and very best. Ard daraich garden is no exception. here a rock garden Most of the gardens are located very close to the coast has been created on a granite hillside creating small and have idyllic views across the western seaboard. This pockets in the thin peat layer for planting. has the advantage of not being hit by late frosts and also Scottish gardens host some having an earlier growing season than gardens inland. of the finest displays of inverewe in Wester ross himalayan blue poppies on has a wonderful collection the planet and this will be of tender rhododendrons the ideal time of year to such as rhododendron view them at Ardtornish edgeworthii and some estate gardens. magnificent Asiatic Why not take this Magnolias such as Magnolia opportunity to view some of rhododendron wilsonii with its pure white Scotland’s finest gardens in petals and clusters of red the comfort and homeliness stamens. The view from the walled garden across Loch of this fabulous cruise ship. himalayan blue poppy ewe is to die for! Spring fragrance is an integral part of visiting Attadale gardens which have numerous specimens of the yellow SECRET GARDENS OF THE Azalea, rhododendron luteum. it also has an oriental garden from Japan plus a sunken fern garden. WESTERN SEABOARD dundonnell estate garden hosts a fine collection of Tuesday 15th to Camellias, Magnolias and rhododendrons and has an Tuesday 22nd May 2018 impressive laburnum walk in this ancient walled garden. Prices from £3,540 per person based exciting planting in new borders provides all year colour centred around one of the oldest yew trees in Scotland. on 2 people sharing an inside durnamuck garden situated on the edge of Loch broom double/twin cabin with stunning views is a real plantsman’s garden. With a Richard Baines will accompany this rich mix of herbaceous borders, trees and shrubs, cruise as guest speaker

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CYCLING OVER THE MINCH WITH CHRIS BOARDMAN

sland hopping through the Hebrides by bike is Chris boardman took britain's opening a magical and varied experience. From the gold medal at the 1992 barcelona white shell sands of Tiree, Eriskay and Harris, olympics, britain's first cycling gold in 72 I years. he then went on to lead the r&d to the majestic mountains of the Cuillins and the team for gb Cycling in the run up to awe-inspiring scenery of the Trotternish beijing, where they became the most successful british sporting team of all time. Peninsula on Skye, the islands each have a between barcelona and beijing, Chris won unique atmosphere . three stages of the Tour de france, set numerous world records (several of which The thrill of travelling by bicycle under your own steam still stand) and became arguably britain's heightens the physical senses and the spirit of adventure. most successful cyclist to date. The remoteness of these islands, sparsely populated and some traffic-free, means that cycling in the hebrides our final ride in the outer isles takes us from harris, offers tranquillity in the fresh air of unspoilt landscapes. through traditional crofting and weaving communities, to its flatter and more fertile neighbour of Lewis. After on Coll we use the island’s limited roads for a circular sailing back across The Minch, we arrive at the isle of Skye route which starts and finishes in the main village of where we enjoy an invigorating pedal through the Arinagour, whilst its relatively flat and fertile neighbour stunning yet bizarre rock formations of The quiraing on of Tiree makes an idyllic island for cycling as you gently the Trotternish peninsula, before re-joining the ship in the roll along the roads which run behind the many sandy island’s capital, portree. bays and take in distant views of other islands in every direction. A linear ride on raasay affords fine views in each direction, including a magnificent panorama of the Cuillins on Skye. A linear ride on barra allows us to observe the white shell before a relaxing sail of the Small isles, we set out from sands and rugged inland scenery en route to eriskay and Armadale to explore the Sleat peninsula, often referred to the beach where bonnie princes Charlie first stepped onto as ‘the garden of Skye’ where heather-clad mountains british soil. on our full day tour of The uists we discover drop dramatically to the rocky shorelines and glittering these islands of contrasts; the soft, undulating landscapes blue sea, punctuated with lush gardens and dense forests. of South uist are a world apart from the low-lying bird- haven of north uist, scattered with green-blue lochans. We are delighted that this cruise will not only be accompanied by an experienced cycling guide, but also by olympic cyclist Chris boardman. you do not need to be CYCLING OVER THE MINCH an expert to enjoy the thrill of cycling through these stunning islands. The rides are on roads and the majority Tuesday 9th to are gently undulating, with the exception of one steep Tuesday 16th October 2018 incline for approximately a mile. distances will vary from Prices from £3,240 per person based approximately 11 miles up to a maximum of 42 miles for the full day route on The uists. bicycles are provided on on 2 people sharing an inside board or you are more than welcome to bring your own. double/twin cabin each day you have the option to join the rides or to enjoy a less energetic visit, the choice is yours.

www.hebridean.co.uk 11 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

LAND OF WATERWAYS AND WINDMILLS on board Royal Crown

dutch Clogs Zaanse Schans open Air Museum Amsterdam

his captivating cruise explores the history, Naarden was one of the most important defence works heritage and art of The Netherlands with a of the New Dutch Waterline and is breathtaking. At the Tvariety of intriguing visits along the scenic Fortress Museum we can observe the underground casemates and learn more about the fortressed garrison Dutch waterways. After uncovering a hidden town. A stroll through the town will allow you to observe gem right in the heart of the capital Amsterdam, many historical buildings and monuments, such as the the Hortus Botanicus, we sail through some of St. Vitus Church, a large gothic basilica from the 14th the smaller and lesser visited canals and rivers and 15th centuries. to discover more secrets of this fascinating Holland and water are inextricably linked. Behind its coast landscape. lies an intricate network of ditches, waterways, canals, lakes and rivers. The nations windmills, pumping stations, The magnificent Royal Palace is located on the Dam polders and dykes are world-famous and almost a third of Square in Amsterdam. It is one of the three palaces still the land lies below sea level. Without the large water used by the Royal Family. The 350 year old building was engineering works of the past centuries, culminating in the originally the City Hall of Amsterdam. In 1808 it was Delta Works, half of Holland would be submerged. transformed into a palace by King Louis Napoleon Bonaparte and it has remained so ever since. The Woudagemaal in Lemmer is the largest steam- powered pumping station ever constructed and the only Our guided tour will allow us to discover the rich history of steam-powered pumping station in the world that is still in the palace, which was once the largest secular building in use. In a beautiful building, inspired by the Amsterdam Europe, and to admire the marble floors, magnificent School style, The Woudagemaal was built in 1920 to pump paintings, delicate sculptures and gigantic chandeliers of away the excess water in Friesland. Until that time, large its opulent interior*. parts of the region were submerged during the winter. The Amsterdam has one of the oldest botanical gardens in the pumping station, which can pump away over 4000 cubic world, the Hortus Botanicus. It was established in 1638 by meters of water per minute, or 6 million cubic meters per the city municipality as Hortus Medicus, a herb garden with day, changed that. medical plants for Amsterdam doctors and pharmacists. Weerribben-Wieden is a cultural landscape that was In the second half of the 17th century, the Amsterdam created in the 14th century through peat cutting. This peat Hortus Botanicus garden had a rich collection of plants was highly valuable as a fuel when dried, and was cut from completely unknown in Europe. They were brought here the areas known as ‘weren’. The peat was then laid out to from all over the world by the traders of the Dutch East dry on long strips of lands, known as ‘ribben’, thus creating India Company. these unique wetlands. Today, Hortus Botanicus is an attractive oasis, with more The best way to explore the Weerribben-Wieden National than 6,000 different plants with some unique species. The Park is on the water. We take a boat tour through this new hothouse creates conditions for three different gorgeous area, known as ‘the Venice of Holland’, where we tropical climates. hope to see many kinds of waterfowl and insects, and We take a glass-topped canal boat to the gardens for a maybe even spot an otter among the vegetation in the peaceful and relaxing visit and enjoy an exclusive afternoon water and on the banks. tea in the recently renovated Orangery. In the 17th century, Enkhuizen was one of the wealthiest After sailing through what Royal Crown Captain Hans de cities of Holland. It gained power and influence as a Gelder describes as a ‘very beautiful area’ of his beloved member of the Dutch East India Company. Enkhuizen’s rich home nation, we arrive at the fortified town of Naarden. history is still noticeable today as you walk through the old An example of a Spanish Star Fort, it is one of the best inner city with its numerous state mansions, canals, preserved fortified towns in Europe, complete with fortified churches, city walls and harbours. walls and a moat.

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haarlem fortified Town of naarden Cheese Market, Alkmaar

Following our walking tour of Enkhuisen we travel back in as the best portrait painter in the country. Great masters time to see how people lived centuries ago at the open-air of impressionism, like Monet, Corbet and Manet, visited the Zuiderzee Museum which depicts a typical Dutch town and Frans Hals Museum to admire his art. everyday life from the period between 1700 and 1900. During the 17th century, more than 600 windmills were People dressed in traditional Dutch clothing help bring the constructed in the area around the Zaanse Schans, past in this little town to life. The museum is housed in creating the first industrial zone. The windmills were used, more than a hundred and thirty authentic houses, shops among others, to grind spices, produce paint, saw wood, and workshops, illustrating the history and culture of this and make oil. A number of these windmills still exist and unique region. can be visited to discover how these wind-powered Alkmaar is known as the city of cheese in Holland, but has machines work, inside and out. many other attractions including a beautiful old centre with There are various museums you can visit at the Zaanse many historic monuments and a range of interesting Schans to get an accurate impression of life in Holland in museums. Like many old cities in Holland, Alkmaar is a real the 17th and 18th centuries including authentic wooden ‘canal town’. In the past these canals were used as houses, a bakery museum, a chocolate factory, a cheese waterways, as a sewer system and to defend the city, but and dairy factory and a warehouse where clogs are still today they are mainly decorative. made today. The Alkmaar Cheese Market is a fascinating spectacle. This colourful, folkloric spectacle takes place at the picturesque Waagplein and here you can discover how cheese is traded We hope you can according to a tradition that began in 1365. The join the Hebridean 'kaasdragers' (cheese porters), 'zetters' (loaders), River Cruises team, 'ingooiers' (cheese tossers) and 'waagmeesters' (weighers) including host all play defining roles at the market and belong to a guild David Indge, on with many traditions. this enchanting voyage which will The area around IJsselmeer lake is dotted with beautiful reveal many of old Dutch villages and towns. Together, they form one of Holland’s hidden the most gorgeous and authentic parts of Holland. Hoorn’s treasures. heyday was in the 17th century, when it was one of the main cities of the Dutch East India Company. Like Amsterdam and Enkhuizen, Hoorn became a very wealthy city. A walking tour of the old quarter and harbour will uncover dozens of monuments and churches which will allow you to experience the atmosphere of those historic times. With its many historic buildings and beautiful old squares, LAND OF WATERWAYS Haarlem lies near the beach on the banks of the Spaarne AND WINDMILLS river. Narrow streets are lined with monumental buildings built by the master Lieven de Key. 20th May to 27th May 2018 The Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem has many artworks of Prices from £2,835 per person masters from the 16th and 17th century and is home to the based on 2 people sharing a world’s biggest Frans Hals collection. Counted among the greatest of the Dutch masters, Frans Hals became known deluxe twin cabin

* The Royal Palace Amsterdam is placed at the King's disposal and in active use by the Dutch Royal House. Should the palace not be closed for a royal event, our guided tour will allow us to discover the rich history and interior of this magnificent building. www.hebridean.co.uk 13 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES

by Jeremy Hawkings THE WEST COAST OF SCOTLAND Chief Executive of Luxury Scotland

Ever since my first visit to Further north, The Ardnamurchan Peninsula is the most Scotland, many years ago, westerly point of the Scottish mainland. It is wild and the west coast has been a remote with some impressive private houses. Knoydart is even more remote and without roads, so access is on firm favourite, so much so, foot or by boat. The spectacular and rugged landscape that for a while I made it never fails to impress those who are prepared to make my home. the journey. In the south, the Mull of Kintyre Luxury Scotland, the marketing group of 31 of the finest, provides excellent sailing for small yachts luxury hotels in Scotland which celebrated its 25th in and around Tarbert and Crinan. I have also sailed, as a anniversary this year, has ten of its members on the west guest, on a Dutch submarine, fully submerged in Loch coast of Scotland. Knockinaam Lodge in the south has Fyne, Scotland’s second biggest sea loch, while they fired strong literary connections. Crinan Hotel is in the little test torpedoes. fishing village at the end of the Crinan Canal which was Just north of Crinan you will find Loch Awe, one of the often visited by the puffer Para Handy. Hebridean Princess prettiest lochs in Scotland, with excellent trout fishing. is based in the port of Oban and very nearby Airds Hotel The waters of the loch are sprinkled with several and Restaurant and Glencoe House offer luxurious picturesque islands complete with their own ruined castle. accommodation. Inverlochy Castle at Fort William was recently voted to be the finest hotel in Europe. On the For those interested in history, this part of Scotland island of Skye, you will find Kinloch Lodge and on the Isle known as Dalriada was a Gaelic kingdom founded in the of Lewis is Lews Castle which offers indulgent self- 5th century, of which the hill fort of Dunadd was believed catering accommodation. The to be its capital. Near to the little village of Kilmartin, Torridon, near the little village there are 350 examples of cairns, standing stones, of Shieldaig, one of the stone circles, forts and castles. Kilmartin Glen visiting places of Hebridean has many examples of Princess, offers a myriad of Neolithic and outdoor activities and an Bronze Age hour away you will find out remnants. It is also most northerly outpost, Inver where the Lodge Hotel. Near Inver rhododendron was Lodge is Handa Island, a introduced to the bird reserve maintained by western The Scottish Wildlife hemisphere by Trust where each Joseph Dalton summer some 100,000 Hooker in 1849. guillemots, razorbills To the west you and great skuas come will find the Island to breed. Access to of Seil and the the island is by a rib little bridge and once you have which links Seil convened with the to the mainland wildlife you can have is affectionately a good seafood lunch known as The in the pier-side Bridge over the restaurant. Atlantic. From So, wherever you are North Cuan, on the on the west coast of southerly tip of Seil Scotland, afloat in the island you can take a sublime luxury of three-minute ferry Hebridean Princess , or ride to the pretty on land, you will find island of Luing with its plenty to see and do. traditional Enjoy this winter and whitewashed cottages dream of where you will and abundant wildlife. travel in the New Year.

14 01756 704704 LUXURY SCOTLAND MONOPOLY COMPETITION

To celebrate their 25th Anniversary, Luxury Scotland has released a new limited-edition version of Monopoly featuring all of the consortium’s 31 member properties including Donald Trump’s Turnberry golf course, Andy Murray’s Cromlix Hotel and, of course, Hebridean Princess .

The Luxury Scotland edition of Monopoly will give players the chance to tour Scotland for the hottest hotel properties, buy them, develop them and watch their investments shoot up in value. The game will not be going on general sale to the public but around 1,000 copies will be distributed to the featured properties and is available to purchase on board Hebridean Princess. for your chance to win one of 3 copies of this exclusive game, please answer the following questions:

1. Which Luxury Scotland property was the setting for John Buchan’s book, The 39 Steps? 2. Which Queen stayed at Inverlochy Castle in 1873 and wrote in her diary ‘I never saw a lovelier or more romantic spot’? please send your answers, together with your name and address by email to [email protected] by Wednesday 31st January 2018. Three lucky winners will be randomly selected from all the correct entries.

CROSSWORD COMPETITION in ISSUE 26 We had an overwhelming response to the crossword competition in the last issue and congratulations to everyone who correctly deduced that the Scottish soup was Cock-a-Leekie. The lucky winner of a luxury Scottish hamper was Professor Angela Noble of Montrose.

Please note email addresses may be used for marketing purposes. If you prefer not to receive email communications from Hebridean Island Cruises please state this in your entry.

www.hebridean.co.uk 15 REFLECTIONS ON NORWAY

frank bondø was born and raised in norway on the and finally as a Squadron Commander. being the small island of rørvik, just south of the arctic circle. As Captain of one ship, and in tactical control of 6 capable the son of a fisherman he got to train his sealegs at an military ships was the ultimate challenge for a navy early age. from the age of 3, he went to sea with his officer at the age of 36. father whenever possible and became determined to frank was invited to apply for the position as the make a career at sea. Captain of the norwegian royal yacht norge at the frank joined the navy and trained for 4 years at the age of 39. from 1996, he served as the Kings Captain norwegian naval Academy in bergen, subsequently for 19 years until his retirement 2015. serving on fast patrol boats as Chief officer, Captain

SAILING THE NORWEGIAN FJORDS ON BOARD HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS

by Captain Frank Bondø

I joined Hebridean Princess in part in these gala dinners several times, and I must admit I Invergordon on 19th July, as a enjoyed them very much. The food was delicious, served Pilot, feeling excited but with a by a professional crew. The atmosphere around the table, few butterflies running around! the conversation and all the interesting guests, I loved it! However, I was welcomed by During my career, I have only sailed on ships with a military Captain Trevor Bailey and his crew. A cruise ship was a totally new experience for me. I crew, and soon felt at home. A was impressed by both Captains, Trevor and Richard,- how few guests joined the ship for they handled their ship and their crew, always focusing on the crossing to Norway and the guests and their wellbeing. I enjoyed the friendly doreen Thomson, f&b Manager the main party of guests joined atmosphere within the crew, amongst the guests and and Captain frank bondø in Sandnes. between the crew and our guests. The guests seemed to Hebridean Princess completed 3 cruises in Norwegian feel at home, many knew each other and I realised quite a waters; the first taking us from Sandnes/Stavanger and up few are regulars, coming back year after year, and some to Bergen, via the Hardangerfjord area; the second up to doing several cruises every year. Ålesund and Geiranger fjord before returning to Bergen; After only 4 weeks on the ship, I do understand why. the final itinerary via Hardangerfjord and Ryfylkefjord to Stavanger/Sandnes. I want to thank Hebridean Island Cruises for giving me this unique experience, sailing with you in Although I have sailed for more than 40 years on the Norwegian waters. Norwegian coast, I was delighted to visit some places I have never been on board Hebridean Princess , I did not think that could be possible! I soon learned the philosophy of Hebridean Island Cruises - focusing on giving the guests a unique experience. We very rarely saw the big cruise ships and we did not visit touristified places where our guests had to queue with hundreds of other tourists. No, we came to places where our guests were given the flexibility to choose their activities, and if they wanted to do so, go for a stroll on their own, being on their own, just surrounded by amazing fjords and mountains. Some of the fjords we visited, like the Lysefjord (east of Stavanger) and the Fyksesund (in Hardangerfjord) are very narrow and the mountains are diving into the deep fjords. Sometimes we were sailing just 10 meters away from the mountain and still having nearly a 100 meters under our keel. I can assure you, this makes the heart beat faster for the Captain and the navigator, but also for the passengers. Some were thinking we were going blueberry picking, and it was quite close to being possible! Hebridean Island Cruises have established a tradition where the Captains join the gala dinners at the beginning and at the end of each cruise. I had the pleasure of taking Sailing close to cliffs in Lysefjord

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