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SARDINIA & FROM THE STONE AGE TO

SEPTEMBER 21 – OCTOBER 6, 2018 TOUR LEADER: ROBERT VEEL

SARDINIA & CORSICA Overview FROM THE STONE AGE TO NAPOLEON each have a unique history, stretching back 5,000 Tour dates: September 21 – October 6, 2018 years. In spite of centuries of invasion and occupation both islands have maintained a distinctive culture, reflecting both their current status as part Tour leader: Robert Veel of and , and millennia of diverse Mediterranean influences. This carefully constructed itinerary aims to showcase the very best of each Tour Price: $8,450 per person, twin share island, mixing historical and cultural sites with the superb landscapes for which the islands are famous and an exploration of local traditions, food Single Supplement: $1,850 for sole use of and wine. double room On Sardinia we focus on the island’s remarkable archaeology, with perhaps the greatest range of Palaeolithic, and sites Booking deposit: $500 per person to be found anywhere. A picture of these ancient cultures is built up progressively, visiting a range of small sites and museums. We also Recommended airline: Emirates explore the influence of Phoenician, Roman, Pisan, Genoese and Spanish occupiers over the centuries. The itinerary begins in southern Sardinia, Maximum places: 20 moving progressively north.

Itinerary: (3 nights), Santa Caterina (2 In Corsica, the focus is first and foremost on the magnificent natural nights), Alghero (3 nights), Bonifacio (2 nights), scenery of the island, which combines pristine coastline with a (3 nights), (2 nights) mountainous interior that is the equal of the European . However, there are also notable historic sites to be enjoyed, including the Bastion Date published: May 23, 2018 cities built by the Genoese and of course the story of Napoleon, Corsica’s most famous son.

The itinerary includes several days of scenic coach touring and two boat excursions. There are some long days of coach journeys on winding roads and all up we stay in six different towns. A reasonable level of fitness and stamina is required to enjoy this tour.

Your tour leader

Robert Veel has been leading tours to Italy and other parts of the Mediterranean since 1990. He is a director of Academy Travel and holds a BA, Med and Dip Ed from the University of Sydney. For many years Robert taught at the University of Sydney, including several years as Assistant Director of its Centre for Continuing Education. Robert’s knowledge of Italy stretches from the time of the Greek colonies to the 20th century, though his teaching focus has been on Medieval and Renaissance Italy. Robert also has a keen interest and good knowledge of the visual arts and western classical music. Enquiries and Robert researched this tour to Sardinia and Corsica in October 2017. The bookings itinerary aims to provide a broad range of experiences including archaeology, ancient history, maritime empires of the Mediterranean, For further information and to geology and natural scenery, food and wine. secure a place on this tour please contact Kathy ‘Robert Veel was every traveller’s dream leader. Ever-present to Wardrop at Academy Travel be of assistance, energetic, enthusiastic and entertaining in his talks – a on 9235 0023 or 1800 639 true professional.’ Feedback from Academy Travel’s New York: Music, 699 (outside Sydney) or email Theatre, Art & Food tour, April 2016 [email protected]

Tour Highlights

SARDINIA’S STONE & BRONZE AGE SITES Dotted around the island are hundreds of prehistoric sites, ranging from 5,000-year-old necropoli to Bronze Age ‘’: fortresses, villages, sacred wells and other structures, dating from 2,000-1,200BC. Sardinia offers perhaps the world’s best glimpse into human pre-history. On the tour we visit a varied range of sites and key archaeological museums to gain an understanding of Sardinia’s ancient peoples.

ALGHERO A mix of Spanish and Italian influences, Sardinia’s western maritime city of Alghero is full of charm. The fortified old city dates from the time of rule in the 13th-16th centuries. As well as historic sites, the area offers fine scenery, with plunging limestone cliffs and attractive harbours. North of Alghero is one of Sardinia’s leading wine-producing areas, with the white variety predominant.

BONIFACIO Corsica’s southernmost town is dramatically situated high on the limestone cliffs of the straits that separate Sardinia and Corsica. At Bonifacio’s heart is a magnificent fortress, built by the Genoese in the middle ages to guard this strategic point. Fought over for centuries, Bonifacio’s history is as striking as its scenery. Numerous groups tried to conquer the citadel, including Saracen pirates and , ’s chief rival.

NAPOLEON’S BIRTHPLACE Corsica’s capital Ajaccio was the birthplace of its most famous son, Napoleon, who rose up from relatively humble origins to command an empire. are immensely proud of this heritage, celebrated in an excellent house-museum and the art collection of the Emperor’s uncle, Cardinal Fesch, one of the most important connoisseurs of the 18th century. The Palais Fesch also houses an imperial chapel for the Bonaparte family.

CORTE AND THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS The crossing from south to north Corsica is as dramatic as the Swiss Alps. A river valley gradually gives way to pristine forests and finally craggy granite peaks, rising nearly 3,000 metres above sea level. The inland town of Corte is the spiritual home of Corsican identity, and the centre of Corsican independence movements. All this is explored in the well- regarded Musèe de la Corse, within the 15th-century citadel.

Introducing Sardinia and Corsica

In spite of their proximity to continental Italy and France, of which they are 3,000BC semi-independent regions, the islands of Sardinia and Corsica are not well NEOLITHIC HYPOGEA known to most travellers. So what do they have to offer?

Landscape The landscape of each island is distinctive. Sardinia is mainly limestone, with chalky cliffs and rolling hills. White cliffs punctuated with sandy beaches characterise the coastline, whereas the interior is rolling hills. Most 1800-800BC local architecture is built from the limestone. Corsica, on the other hand, BRONZE AGE was formed mainly by dramatic volcanic uplift, with craggy granite peaks ‘NURAGIC’ CIVILIZATION thrusting over 2,500 metres and a ruggedly beautiful coastline.

History 750-212BC The history of both islands begins in the Neolithic period, the late stone age. PHOENICIANS/ Visitors can visit impressive underground burial vaults (hypogea) that are CARTHAGINIANS over 5,000 years old. Sardinia is famous for its Bronze Age (1800-800BC) sites. Over 6,500 Bronze Age structures have been identified, the most 212BC–6C AD characteristic being the cylindrical watch towers, called ‘nuraghe’ in ROMANS Sardinia. There are also castle-like buildings, sacred springs and monumental ‘giants’ tombs.

In the seventh century BC, the Carthaginians established trading settlements on both islands. These were later occupied by the Romans, 6-10C AD VANDAL, GOTH, who held the islands right through to sixth century AD. The period 600- SARACEN INVASIONS 1100 was one of invasion and depopulation. Successive waves of , Goths and Saracens moved through the islands. Things settled down in the 11th century when the Pisans established strongholds on both islands, part of their vast maritime empire. Striped ‘Pisan Romanesque’ churches pop up on both islands. 11C-1284 PISAN MARITIME EMPIRE The Genoese defeated the Pisans in a decisive sea battle in 1284 and their presence on Corsica lasted right through until the 18th century. The 18th century saw Sardinia and Corsica being swapped among the Bourbons, Hapsburgs and rulers of , until Napoleon swept away the ancient regime. 1284-18C GENOESE Remote and underdeveloped Sardinia and Corsica became backwaters in MARITIME the 19th and 20th century, but this very remoteness and lack of EMPIRE development are drawcards for the modern traveller.

Food and wine 1799-1815 NAPOLEON Seafood dominates the local cuisine. Specialities include lobster around Bonifacio and ‘bottarga’, a delicious fish roe. Lamb is also abundant on both islands, and sheep’s cheese is a staple. In Corsica you can also find cinghiale, sausage. Overlaid with these regional specialities are classic Italian and French dishes – fresh pasta and excellent croissants. 19-21C AUTONOMOUS Both islands produce excellent red and white wines, which are only now REGIONS being recognised. Vermentino is Corsica’s leading white wine, whereas OF ITALY -style reds come from Corsica’s . AND FRANCE

Detailed itinerary

Included meals are shown with the letters B, L and D.

Begin the tour relaxed In order to get the most from the tour we suggest you plan to arrive in a few days early to recover from the flight. As well as flights we are able to arrange pre-tour accommodation in Rome. Please contact us to discuss the best options.

Friday September 21 Rome to Sardinia The tour begins at Rome’s Fiumicino airport at 1.30pm today. Please arrange your travel so that you are at the airport by this time. After meeting your tour leader Robert Veel, we take our group flight to . On arrival at Cagliari a coach takes us to Pula, a resort town on the south coast about one hour away. Tonight there is a simple dinner in our hotel. Overnight Pula (B, D)

Saturday September 22 A snapshot of ancient Sardinia After an introductory lecture we visit the Punic-Roman archaeological site of Nora, just a few minutes from our hotel. The site is beautifully situated on a narrow headland. Next to the site is an 11th century church built in honour of the martyr saint, Efisio. We then enjoy a welcome lunch in Pula before heading out to the Bronze Age nuraghe of Sa Domu and S’Orcu. These humble structures give us our first glimpse of Sardinia’s impressive pre-history. In the late afternoon there is the possibility of a swim at the beach at Nora. Overnight Pula (B, L)

Sunday September 23 Cagliari Sardinia’s capital is spread out around the base of a fortress, built by Pisans in the 13th century and strengthened by the Spanish in the 16th. After a morning lecture, we travel to Cagliari and visit the excellent archaeological museum, containing the very best artefacts from the Nuragic period, as well as Phoenician and Roman pieces. Next door is the small picture gallery, containing numerous altarpieces from the Spanish period. A walking tour takes us through the old city to the cathedral and down to the vibrant Castello district, where there are many restaurants in the narrow laneways. We return to Nora in the afternoon. Overnight Pula (B)

Monday September 24 Su Nuraxi We depart Pula this morning and head north. Our first stop is the well-preserved Romanesque sanctuary church of Santa Maria, just north of Cagliari. The church is built in the Pisan

Images left: the archaeological site of Nora; Bronze figure in the archaeological museum in Cagliari; and the well-preserved Nuraghe Santu Antine style, and gives us our first evidence of the presence of the maritime empire of Pisa in Sardinia. Nearby is the town of San

Sperate, attractively decorated with murals, a Sardinian tradition. We then visit Su Nuraxi, Sardinia’s largest Bronze Age fortified village and a UNESCO World-Heritage site. After a simple lunch, we continue to the small coastal town of Santa Caterina in Pittinuri. There is the possibility of a swim in the ocean or the hotel pool on arrival. Dinner is in the hotel. Overnight Santa Caterina (B, L, D)

Tuesday September 25 and Cabras After a lecture, we visit Tharros, Sardinia’s most impressive Punic-Roman site, dating from the 8th century BC. Located on a headland jutting into the sea, there are well preserved Roman remains and evidence of a Tophet, a Punic burial ground, perhaps used for child sacrifice. In the nearby town of Cabras we visit the excellent archaeological museum before returning to Santa Caterina. Overnight Santa Caterina (B)

Wednesday September 26 and the western coast We depart Santa Caterina and visit two varied archaeological sites. The first is a superbly preserved sacred well at Santa Cristina from the Nuragic period, evidence of the advanced nature of this period of prehistory. Next is a Roman bath complex of Fordongianus, built around a hot spring in the first century AD. We then drive along a charming country road to Bosa, perhaps Sardinia’s prettiest town. Situated on a river, it is dominated by a medieval Spanish castle. This afternoon there is a stunning drive up the isolated western coast to Alghero, with views rivalling Italy’s famed Amalfi Coast. Dinner is in a local restaurant. Overnight Alghero (B, D)

Thursday September 27 Alghero Alghero displays a clear Spanish influence and a form of Catalan dialect is still spoken. After a morning lecture, we tour the fortified old city, before taking a boat trip to the ‘Grotte di Nettuno’ a fine network of limestone caves in a national park just to the north of Alghero. The later afternoon is at leisure. Overnight Alghero (B)

Friday September 28 Wine and ruins This morning we visit two remarkable sites. Sant’Andrea Priu, on a remote inland hill is a large Neolithic burial chamber, perhaps 5,000 years old, and in continuous use right through to the Byzantine period in the 8th century AD. Nearby Santu Antime is a large and complex Nuragic fortress. Returning back to Alghero, we visit Anghelu Ruju, another burial chamber and then enjoy a tour and late afternoon wine tasting at Sella and Mosca, Sardinia’s best regarded winemakers. Overnight Alghero (B, wine tasting) Images left: Giants of Mont'e Prama now found in the archaeological museum in Cabras; Tharros, the largest of several Carthaginian settlements of Sardinia; and ‘giant’s tombs’ found in Azarchena, northern Sardinia Saturday September 29 The costa smerelda and Corsica

We depart Alghero, bound for Corsica. En route we pass by the Costa Smeralda, an exclusive holiday destination on Sardinia’s east coast, developed by the Aga Khan. We then visit the Nuragic sites near Arzhachena. This includes the ‘giant’s tomb’ of Coddu Veccju, a monumental grave with a circle of impressive monoliths. We arrive at Santa Teresa in in time to check in for our 5pm to Bonifacio. The approach to Bonifacio by water is spectacular. Dinner is in our hotel. Overnight Bonifacio (B, D) Sunday September 30 Bonifacio This morning after a lecture a local guide shows us the highlights of Bonifacio. The town is named after its Tuscan founder, Count Boniface, who came here in 828. The Genoese, in their early phases of their maritime empire established a presence here in 1187, the first of their Corsican holdings. For centuries the town has faced attack from Saracens, Pirates and fighting Pisan, Genoese and Spanish forces, all wanting to control this strategic place. After our tour the afternoon and evening are free. There are several walks near the town and you might like to take a short cruise of the harbour and nearby islands. Overnight Bonifacio (B) Monday October 1 Sartene and The day is spent traversing the rugged south-west corner of Corsica. The long drive takes us to the medieval town of Sartene and then to Filitosa, Corsica’s most important prehistoric site. Here we view the 4,000-year-old anthropomorphic menhirs – stone warriors – which were discovered by Charles-Antoine Cesari as recently as 1946. We arrive in Ajaccio in the late afternoon and there is dinner in a local restaurant. Overnight Ajaccio (B, D) Tuesday October 2 Scandola National Park A coach and boat excursion takes us along the famously beautiful western coast of Corsica. A highlight of our day is a boat excursion through the , whose sheer red granite cliffs, transparent waters and abundant flora, birdlife and marine fauna have earned in a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Overnight Ajaccio (B, L) Wednesday October 3 Napoleon and Ajaccio Napoleon Bonaparte is Ajaccio’s most famous son, and the city makes the most of the connection. After a lecture, this morning we visit the , Napoleon’s childhood home, now a museum dedicated to the Emperor and his family. We also visit the nearby Palais Fesch, and fine arts museum which was once home to Napoleon’s uncle, Cardinal .

Images right: our hotel’s dramatic position in Bonifacio; stone warriors at Filitosa; and Scandola National Park

The cardinal was a major art collector, and many of his paintings are now to be found in the National Gallery, London and The Louvre. The collection in Ajaccio has works by important Italian primitives, as well as big names such as Titian and Botticelli. Within the palace is the Chapelle Imperiale, containing the tombs of several members of the Bonaparte family. Overnight Ajaccio (B)

Thursday October 4 Corte and the central mountains A spectacular drive takes us over Corsica’s central mountain range. We stop to enjoy the fine scenery of massive granite cliffs, oak forests and river valleys. Corte lies at the geographic centre of Corsica and is intimately connected to the island’s struggle for independence in the 18th century and, more recently, with Corsica’s cultural identity. We visit the Musèe de la Corse which explores Corsica’s history and traditions. We then proceed to a lunch of traditional Corsican specialities before continuing to Bastia. Overnight Bastia (B, L)

Friday October 5 Bastia and Cap Corse On our final day we explore the old city of Bastia. Named after its Genoese bastion, there is also a lovely old port and elegant city squares to explore. Napoleon’s island of exile, , can be clearly seen from the bastion. This afternoon we visit the small Roman archaeological site and Pisan church at Mariana, named after its founder, the Roman consul Marius, an important player in Rome’s civil war in the 1st century BC. We then head to the hills to visit the magnificent Pisan Romanesque church of San Michele. This evening there is a farewell meal in a local restaurant. Overnight Bastia (B, D)

Saturday October 6 Departure There is a transfer to Bastia airport timed to coincide with the afternoon flight to , from where connecting intercontinental flights can be taken. It is also possible to travel by ferry from Bastia to , Genoa or . (B)

Hotels

All hotels are four-star, have been inspected or used on previous Academy Travel tours. Several hotels may be classified as ‘boutique’, having just 15-25 rooms.

 Pula, The Nora Club Hotel (3 nights)  Santa Caterina, La Baja (2 nights)  Alghero, Hotel Catalunya (3 nights)  Bonifacio, (2 nights)  Ajaccio, Palazzu U Domu (3 nights)  Bastia, Hotel des Gouvenuers (2 nights)

Images right: the citadel at Corte; the old city of Bastia; and the church of San Michele Tour Price Fitness Requirements The tour pri ce is $8,450 per person, twin share (land content of THIS tour only). The supplement for a single room is $1,850 per person. A non-refundable deposit of $500 per person is required to GRADE THREE secure a place on the tour. It is important both for you and for your fellow travellers that Tour Inclusions you are fit enough to be able to enjoy all the activities on this tour. To give you an indication of the level of physical fitness Included in the tour price required to participate on our tours, we have given them a  Economy class airfares Rome-Cagliari with Alitalia, with star grading. Academy Travel’s tours tend to feature 23kg luggage maximum extended walking tours and site visits, which require greater  All accommodation and breakfasts in selected four-star fitness than coach touring. We ask you to carefully consider hotels your ability to meet the physical demands of the tour.  Ten lunches or dinners, with drinks, as listed Participation criteria for this tour  All ground transport by private coach  Entry fees to all sites This Grade Three tour is among our most physically  All ferry and boat excursion costs demanding. To participate on this tour, you should be able to  Services of tour leader and local guides comfortably undertake up to seven hours per day, over  Series of background lectures on tour several days. Activities may include travelling long distances,  Extensive tour notes walking on difficult terrain, climbing stairs, embarking and  All tipping to guides, drivers and restaurants disembarking trains and/or boats, exposure to high altitudes and long days of touring. These tours may include one night Not included stops and early starts.  International air fares, taxes and surcharges (see below)  Travel insurance You should be able to:  Meals not mentioned in itinerary  keep up with the group at all times  Expenses of a personal nature  walk for 5-7 kilometres at a moderate pace with only Air travel OPTIONS short breaks  stand for a reasonable length of time in galleries and The tour begins in Rome and ends in Bastia. From Bastia you museums can fly to Paris or Nice. We suggest Emirates, which serve all  wheel your luggage on and off the Sardinia-Corsica ferry these cities. Please contact us for the best possible prices on  climb steep staircases to enter Nuragic fortresses and economy, business or first class fares. Transfers between Neolithic hypogea, negotiate steep rocky paths at other airport and hotel are included for all passengers booking their sites flights through Academy Travel.  tolerate a diet that can be significantly different from a typical Australian diet, and where some dietary Enquiries & bookings requirements cannot be met For further information and to secure a place on this tour  get on and off a large coach with steep steps and boats please contact Kathy Wardrop at Academy Travel on unassisted, possibly with luggage 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email  move your luggage a short distance if required [email protected] A note for older travellers Weather on Tour We regret that we are not able to accept bookings on a Grade Three tour from people more than 80 years old. Expect warm weather throughout, perhaps punctuated by a late summer storm and a few rainy days. Daytime maxima average around 20-25 degrees in late September, dropping to 18 or so in the evenings. Swimming There are ample opportunities to enjoy a swim on this tour. Hotels in Pula, Santa Caterina, Bonifacio and Bastia have pools. Ocean swimming in the Mediterranean is possible at all our stops, except Bastia.

About Academy Travel Each year Academy Travel organises around 60 journeys to Europe, the Mediterranean, and the Americas, each focusing on a distinctive historical, artistic or cultural theme. The aim of every Academy Travel journey is to combine the pleasures of independent travel with the benefits and shared enjoyment of a group. Academy Travel is an Australian-owned travel company, founded in 2004. The company’s staff includes both academic experts and travel professionals with over two decades’ industry experience. We also have our own office in Rome which organises our tours in Western Europe. This means we have direct control over the selection of hotels, restaurants, coaches and local guides, guaranteeing superior quality.

Great itineraries Academy Travel works hard to create itineraries that provide a balanced experience – walking tours, museum and gallery visits, live performances, city and countryside. We’re proud to be constantly innovating, from opening up new destinations, creating tours around festivals and special exhibitions, to providing unrivalled depth in our residential tours.

Like-minded groups Over the years we’ve been in operation, we’ve developed a loyal band of Academy Travellers, some of whom have travelled with us more than 10 times. They say the small groups (maximum 20, average 17) and distinct themes of our tours attract like-minded travellers and create a relaxed, convivial atmosphere.

Long stays Feedback from our clients consistently tells us that creating itineraries with three and four-night stops, or even longer, is far more appealing that rushing from place to place. Wherever possible, we plan our tours around a limited number of stops, making your travels more relaxed and more meaningful.

Special Events A private viewing of the Sistine Chapel? Tickets to a sold-out concert by the Berlin Philharmonic? A world- famous art fair? Access to private homes and gardens? Behind-the-scenes visits? Many of our tours feature access to places and events that are usually not offered on most group tours.

Expert tour leaders We work closely with a team of academically qualified and highly experienced tour leaders. They don’t just ‘rattle off the facts’ – they help us plan our itineraries and, on tour, freely share their deep knowledge and genuine passion. Most of our tour leaders are still teaching at an advanced level and many are still undertaking academic research.

Years of experience Academy Travel was founded in 2004 by a team with decades of prior experience in small group travel. On average, our tour leaders have over 11 years’ experience, some with 25 or more years. To ensure quality, we have our own office in Rome, Italy and a network of trusted suppliers around the world.

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