The Best of the South Pacific

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The magical names of Tahiti, Rarotonga, Fiji, Samoa, and Tonga have conjured up romantic images of an earthly paradise since European explorers brought home tales of their tropical splendor and uninhibited people more than two centuries ago. And with good reason, for these are some of the most beautiful islands in the world—if not the most beautiful. Here you can relax at remote resorts perched on some of most gorgeous beaches the planet has to offer. Off- shore are some of the globe’s most fabulous diving and spectacular snorkeling. Picking the best of the South Pacific is no easy task. I cannot, for example, choose the most friendly island, for the people of Tahiti and French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, Fiji, Samoa, American Samoa, and the Kingdom of Tonga are among the friendliest folks on earth. Their fabled history has provided fodder for famous books and films, their storied culture inspires hedonistic dreams, and their big smiles and genuine warmth are prime attractions everywhere in the South Pacific. Personally, I like all the islands and all the islanders, which further complicates my chore to no end. In this chapter, I point out the best of the best—not necessarily to pass qual- itative judgment, but to help you choose among many options. I list them here in the order in which they appear in the book. Your choice of destination will depend on why you are going to the islands. You can scuba dive to exhaustion or just sit on the beach with a trashy novel. You can share a 300-room hotel with package tourists or get away from it all at a tiny resort on a remote island. Even out there, you can be left alone with your lover or join your fellow guests at lively dinner parties. You can totally ignore the Pacific Islanders around you or enrich your own life by learning about theirs. You can listen to the day’s events on CNN International or see what the South Seas were like a century ago. Those decisions are all yours. For a preview of each South Pacific country, see “The Islands in Brief” in chapter 2.

1 The Most Beautiful Islands “In theCOPYRIGHTED South Seas,” Rupert Brooke Here MATERIAL are some that you see on the wrote in 1914, “the Creator seems to travel posters and in the brochures: have laid himself out to show what He • Moorea (French Polynesia): I can do.” How right the poet was, for think Moorea is the most beautiful all across the South Pacific lie some of island in the world. Nothing to my the world’s most dramatically beauti- mind compares with its sawtooth ful islands. In my opinion, the best of ridges and the great dark-green the lot have jagged mountain peaks hulk of Mount Rotui separating plunging into aquamarine lagoons. glorious Cook’s and Opunohu e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 6

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bays. The view from Tahiti of “A Side Trip Back in Time to Moorea’s dinosaur-like skyline is Levuka” box in chapter 10. unforgettable. See chapter 5. • Qamea and Matagi Islands • Bora Bora (French Polynesia): (Fiji): These little jewels off the The late James Michener thought northern coast of Taveuni are that Bora Bora was the most beau- lushly beautiful, with their shore- tiful island in the world. Although lines either dropping precipitously tourism has turned this gem into into the calm surrounding waters sort of an expensive South Seas or forming little bays with idyllic Disneyland since Michener’s day, beaches. See “Resorts Offshore development hasn’t altered the from Taveuni” in chapter 11. incredible beauty of Bora Bora’s • Upolu (Samoa): Robert Louis basaltic tombstone towering over Stevenson was so enraptured with a lagoon ranging in color from Samoa that he spent the last five yellow to deep blue. See chapter 6. years of his life in the hills of • Rarotonga (Cook Islands): Only Upolu. The well-weathered eastern 32km (20 miles) around, the cap- part of the island is ruggedly beau- ital of the Cook Islands boasts the tiful, especially in Aliepata, where beauty of Tahiti—with hints of a cliff virtually drops down to one Moorea—but without the devel- of the region’s most spectacular opment and the high prices of beaches. See “Exploring Apia & French Polynesia. See chapter 8. the Rest of Upolu” in chapter 12. • Aitutaki (Cook Islands): A junior • Savai’i (Samoa): One of the version of Bora Bora, Aitutaki is largest Polynesian islands, this one of the hottest South Pacific great volcanic shield slopes gently destinations. The main island sits on its eastern side to a chain of at the apex of a shallow, colorful gorgeous beaches. There are no lagoon, which from the air looks towns on Savai’i, only traditional like a turquoise carpet laid on the Samoan villages interspersed deep blue sea. See “Aitutaki” in among rain forests, which adds to chapter 8. its unspoiled beauty. See “Savai’i” • The Yasawa Islands (Fiji): in chapter 12. Another hot destination of late, • Tutuila (American Samoa): The especially for backpackers, this only reason to go to American chain of long, narrow islands off Samoa these days is to see the the northwest coast of Viti Levu, physical beauty of Tutuila and its Fiji’s main island, has some of the magnificent harbor at Pago Pago. region’s best beaches. Despite the If you can ignore the tuna canner- inroads of tourism, however, ies and huge stacks of shipping mostly the Yasawas are populated containers, this island is right up by Fijians who live in traditional there with Moorea. See chapter 13. villages. See chapter 10. • Vava’u (Tonga): One of the South • Ovalau (Fiji): The sheer cliffs of Pacific’s best yachting destina- Ovalau kept the town of Levuka tions, hilly Vava’u is shaped like a from becoming Fiji’s modern cap- jellyfish, with small islands instead ital, but they create a dramatic of tentacles trailing off into a quiet backdrop to an old South Seas lagoon. Waterways cut into the town little changed in the past center of the main island, creating century. Ovalau has no good the picturesque and perfectly pro- beaches, which means it has no tected Port of Refuge. See “Vava’u” resorts to alter its landscape. See in chapter 14. e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 7

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2 The Best Beaches Because all but a few South Pacific • Titikaveka Beach (Rarotonga, islands are surrounded by coral reefs, Cook Islands): On Rarotonga’s there are few surf beaches in the region. southern coast, Titikaveka is Tahiti has a few, but they all have heat- blessed with palm trees draped absorbing black volcanic sand. Other- over a long beach of brilliant white wise, most islands (and all but a few sand, and the lagoon here is the resorts) have bathtublike lagoons that island’s best for swimming and lap on coral sands draped by coconut snorkeling. See “Exploring Raro- palms. Fortunately for the environ- tonga” in chapter 8. mentalists among us, some of the most • Beach on One Foot Island (Aitu- spectacular beaches are on remote taki, Cook Islands): The sands on islands and are protected from develop- most beaches covered in this book ment by the islanders’ devotion to their are a tannish coral color, but on cultures and villages’ land rights. Here the islets surrounding Aitutaki, are a few that stand out from the many. they are pure white, like talcum. • Temae Plage Publique (Moorea, Tiny One Foot Island has the best French Polynesia): The northeast- beach here, with part of it along a ern coast of Moorea is fringed by channel whose coral bottom is a nearly uninterrupted stretch scoured clean by strong tidal cur- of white sand beach which com- rents, another running out to a mands a glorious view across a sandbar known as Nude Island— speckled lagoon to Tahiti sitting a reference not to clothes but to a on the horizon across the Sea lack of vegetation. See “Exploring of the Moon. See “Exploring Aitutaki” in chapter 8. Moorea” in chapter 5. • Yasawa Island (Fiji): One of the • Matira Beach (Bora Bora, French most spectacular beaches I’ve ever Polynesia): Beginning at the Hotel seen is on the northern tip of Bora Bora, this fine ribbon of sand Yasawa Island, northernmost of stretches around skinny Matira the gorgeous chain of the same Point, which forms the island’s name. This long expanse of deep southern extremity, all the way to sand is broken by a teapotlike rock the Club Med. The eastern side outcrop, which also separates two has views of the sister islands of Fijian villages, whose residents own Raiatea and Tahaa. See “Exploring this land. Blue Lagoon Cruises Bora Bora” in chapter 6. and oceangoing cruise ships stop • Relais Mahana’s beach (Huahine, here; otherwise, the Fijians keep it French Polynesia): My favorite all to themselves. There are other resort beach is at Relais Mahana, a good beaches on Yasawa, however, small hotel near Huahine’s south and two of them are at Yasawa end. Trees grow along the white Island Resort and Oarsman’s Bay beach, which slopes into a lagoon Lodge. See “Island Escapes from deep enough for swimming at any Nadi” and “Resorts Offshore from tide. The resort’s pier goes out to a Nadi” in chapter 10. giant coral head, a perfect and safe • Natadola Beach (The Coral place to snorkel, and the lagoon Coast, Fiji): Fiji’s main island of here is protected from the trade Viti Levu doesn’t have the high- winds, making it safe for sailing. quality beaches found on the See “Where to Stay on Huahine” country’s small islands, but Nata- in chapter 7. dola is an exception. Until recently e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 8

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this long stretch was spared devel- guest at Matangi Island Resort to opment, but a big resort is com- enjoy it. See “Resorts Offshore ing. See “The Coral Coast” in from Taveuni” in chapter 11. chapter 10. • Aleipata Beach (Upolu, Samoa): • Vatulele Island Resort beach On the eastern end of Upolu, a (Vatulele Island, Fiji): Nearly a clifflike mountain forms a dra- 1 kilometer ( ⁄2 mile) of deep white matic backdrop to the deep sands sand fronts the deluxe Vatulele of Aleipata Beach, which faces a Island Resort, off the south shore group of small islets offshore. On of Viti Levu, Fiji’s main island. a clear day you can see American Guests can have dinner out on the Samoa from here. See “Exploring beach or get a bird’s-eye view from Apia & the Rest of Upolu” in a private gazebo overlooking the chapter 12. sands. See “Where to Stay on • Return to Paradise Beach (Upolu, Vatulele Island” in chapter 10. Samoa): This idyllic stretch of • Namenalala Island beaches white sand and black rocks over- (Namenalala Island, Fiji): Home hung by coconut palms gets its to the charming Moody’s Namena name from Return to Paradise, resort, the remote, dragon-shaped the 1953 Gary Cooper movie that Namenalala has one large sandy was filmed here. Surf actually strip with a deep lagoon plus three pounds on the rocks. See “Explor- other small beaches tucked away ing Apia & the Rest of Upolu” in in rocky coves. See “A Resort Off chapter 12. Savusavu” in chapter 11. • ’Atata Island beach (Tonga): • Horseshoe Bay (Matagi Island, A gorgeous, wide beach wraps Fiji): Home of one of the region’s around the “tail” of tadpole-shaped best-value resorts, Matagi is an ’Atata, off Tonga’s capital of extinct volcano whose crater fell Nuku’alofa and home of Royal away on one side and formed pic- Sunset Island Resort. The narrow turesque Horseshoe Bay. The half- peninsula protects a colorful, coral- moon beach at its head is one of speckled lagoon on its western side. the finest in the islands, but you See “Where to Stay on Tongatapu” will have to be on a yacht or a in chapter 14.

3 The Best Honeymoon Destinations Whether you’re on your honeymoon waters below. You’ll find lots of these or not, the South Pacific is a mar- in French Polynesia—especially on velous place for romantic escapes. Bora Bora, the South Pacific’s most After all, romance and the islands have romantic (and expensive) honeymoon gone hand-in-hand since the bare- destination—and a handful more in breasted young women of Tahiti gave the Cook Islands and in Samoa. rousing welcomes to the European One caveat is in order: Most over- explorers in the late 18th century. water bungalows are relatively close I’ve never stayed anywhere as together, meaning that your honey- romantic as a thatch-roof bungalow mooning next-door neighbors will be built on stilts over a lagoon, with a within earshot if not eyeshot. (“It can glass panel in its floor for viewing fish be like watching an X-rated video,” swimming below you and steps lead- a hotel manager once confessed, “but ing from your front deck into the warm without the video.”) Therefore, if e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 9

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you’re seeking a high degree of privacy at the new Sheraton Moorea and seclusion they won’t be your best Lagoon Resort & Spa. See p. 135. choice. The new Moorea Pearl Resort On the other hand, many of the has a few perched on edge of the South Pacific’s small, relatively remote clifflike reef, making for superb offshore resorts offer as much privacy snorkeling right off your front as you are likely to desire. These little deck, while the Inter-Continental establishments would also fall into Moorea Beachcomber Resort has another category: The Best Places to bungalows that are partially built Get Away from It All. They are so over the lagoon. See p. 137. romantic that a friend of mine says her Bora Bora has several hundred ideal wedding would be to rent an overwater bungalows, and more entire small resort in Fiji, take her are on the way. The largest and wedding party with her, get married in most luxurious are at the new Fijian costume beside the beach, and St. Regis Bora Bora Nui Resort make the rest of her honeymoon a div- & Spa (p. 153), although they ing vacation. Most resorts covered in don’t look out to tombstonelike this book are well aware of such Mount Otemanu, rising across the desires, and they offer wedding pack- famous lagoon. Along with Cook’s ages complete with traditional cere- Bay on Moorea, this is one of the mony and costumes. Choose your most photographed scenes in the resort, and then contact the manage- entire South Pacific. For that, you ment for details about their wedding have to stay at the Sofitel Motu packages. (p. 153) or in one of the few units In the meantime, here’s what the with a view at the Hotel Bora two best honeymoon destinations have Bora (p. 151). Other bungalows to offer: at the Hotel Bora Bora sit right on • French Polynesia: The resorts the edge of the reef. Ashore, the here have the region’s best selec- Hotel Bora Bora has large, luxuri- tion of overwater bungalows. ous bungalows that boast their Invariably these are the most own courtyards with swimming expensive style of accommodation pools. Equally private though less in French Polynesia. luxe are the garden units at the On Tahiti, which most visitors Bora Bora Pearl Beach Resort; now consider a way station to you can cavort to your heart’s the other islands, the Inter- content in their wall-enclosed Continental Tahiti Beachcomber patios, which have sun decks and Resort has overwater bungalows splash pools. See p. 151. The Sofi- that face the dramatic outline of tel Marara itself is not as charm- Moorea across the Sea of the ing or luxurious as other resorts on Moon. See p. 111. Some of those Bora Bora, but about five of its at Le Meridien Tahiti also have bungalows are the most private this view. See p. 112. overwater units in French Polyne- On Moorea, some overwater sia, and they have large, partially units at the Sofitel Ia Ora actually covered decks. See p. 153. Out on face Tahiti across the Sea of the an island, the Bora Bora Lagoon Moon, and they’re built over Resort has 50 rather closely packed Moorea’s most colorful lagoon. bungalows over its reef, some with See p. 136. There’s actually a bar great views of Bora Bora’s “other” out on the pier leading to those peak, the more rounded Mount Pahia. See p. 150. The smaller but e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 10

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well-appointed overwater units at Off Nadi, the atmosphere at the friendly Hotel Maitai Polyne- Turtle Island Resort and the sia are the least expensive on Bora Vatulele Island Resort, both of Bora. See p. 155. which are in the luxurious, super- On Huahine, units at the Te expensive category, is active, with Tiare Beach Resort have the guests given the choice of dining largest decks of any overwater alone in their bungalows or at bungalows (one side is completely lively dinner parties hosted by the shaded by a thatch roof). See engaging owners. See p. 288 and p. 165. The Sofitel Heiva has six 290, repectively. Yasawa Island bungalows with views of the Resort sits on one of the prettiest mountainous main part of that beaches and has a very low-key, island. See p. 165. The most deluxe friendly ambiance. It has 16 very of all overwater units are at the Le large bungalows, the choice being Taha’a Private Island & Spa, a the secluded honeymoon unit, luxurious new resort on a small which sits by its own beach. If you island off Tahaa. See p. 171. can’t get that, be sure to reserve Out in the Tuamotu archipel- one of the newer units because a ago, the huge atoll known as communal pathway runs just out- Rangiroa, Hotel Kia Ora has side the bedroom windows of the bungalows over the world’s sec- older bungalows. See p. 289. Much ond-largest lagoon. See p. 175. less luxurious but also much less On the adjacent atoll, overwater expensive, Matamanoa Island bungalows at the new Tikehau Resort caters exclusively to couples, Pearl Beach Resort actually sit making it a good choice for hon- over the rip tides in a pass that lets eymooners on a budget. See p. 286. the sea into the lagoon. See p. In central Fiji off Suva, The 176. On Manihi atoll, units at the Wakaya Club has the largest bun- Manihi Pearl Beach Resort are galows in Fiji, plus a palatial man- cooled by the almost constantly sion with its own pool, perched blowing trade winds. Isolated on high atop a ridge. The staff leaves their own islets, the Pearl Beach the guests to their own devices. resorts on Tikihau and Manihi You might see a movie star or two more closely approximate Fiji’s relaxing at Wakaya. See p. 315. offshore resorts than any others in On a dragon-shaped island all French Polynesia. See p. 177. by itself in the Koro Sea off • Fiji: Fiji has one of the world’s Savusavu, Moody’s Namena is finest collections of small offshore the most remote of all South resorts. These little establishments Pacific resorts. You won’t get a lot have two advantages over their of amenities at Moody’s, but one French Polynesian competitors. of its hexagonal bungalows is First, they have only 3 to 15 bun- perched treehouselike on a ridge, galows each, instead of the 40 providing both privacy and stun- or more found at the French ning sea views. OCCUPIED/UNOC- Polynesian resorts, which means CUPIED signs warn guests that they are usually more widely someone else is already cavorting spaced than their Tahitian cousins. on four of the island’s five private Second, they are on islands all by beaches. See p. 332. themselves. Together, these two Off Taveuni, Matangi Island advantages multiply the privacy Resort is one of the region’s best factor several fold. e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 11

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values for both honeymooners and bungalows and stunning central families. One of its widely spaced building at Qamea Resort and bungalows is built 20 feet up in Spa. Kerosene lanterns romanti- a Pacific almond tree, and two cally light the 52-foot-high thatch more are carved into the side of roof of Qamea’s main building, a cliff (they are reserved for hon- and each bungalow has an out- eymooners). See p. 341. Among door shower and its own ham- my favorite places to stay are the mock strung across the front charming, old South Seas–style porch. See p. 341.

4 The Best Family Vacations There are no Disney Worlds or other government-owned neglect, this such attractions in the islands. That’s is now the best international- not to say that children won’t have a standard resort on Rarotonga. fine time here, but they will enjoy Although it caters to everyone themselves most if they like being from honeymooners to families, around the water. the Rarotongan’s children’s pro- A family can vacation in style and gram is tops in the Cook Islands. comfort at large resorts like the two See p. 210. Sheraton resorts in Fiji, or Shangri-la’s • Castaway Island Resort (Mama- Fijian Resort, but here are some of the nuca Islands, Fiji): One of Fiji’s best smaller establishments that wel- oldest but thoroughly refurbished come families with children. resorts, Castaway has plenty to • Inter-Continental Moorea keep both adults and children Beachcomber Resort (Moorea, occupied, from a wide array of French Polynesia): Most resorts in watersports to a kids’ playroom French Polynesia are designed for and a nursery. There’s even a nurse romance, not children. The one on duty. See p. 284. notable exception is the Moorea • Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Beachcomber, which has an attrac- Islands Resort (Savusavu, Fiji): tive pool, a calm lagoon, the widest The South Pacific’s finest family selection of watersports in French resort encourages parents to enroll Polynesia, and a kids’ program. their kids in an exceptional envi- See p. 137. ronmental education program. It • The Rarotongan Beach Resort keeps the youngsters both edu- & Spa (Rarotonga, Cook Islands): cated and entertained from sunup Rising like a Phoenix after years of to bedtime. See p. 329.

5 The Best Cultural Experiences The South Pacific Islanders are justly this cultural center on Moorea has proud of their ancient Polynesian and demonstrations of handcraft mak- Fijian cultures, and they eagerly ing and puts on a nightly dance inform anyone who asks about both show and feast. It’s a bit commer- their ancient and modern ways. Here cial, and the staff isn’t always flu- are some of the best ways to learn ent in English, but this is the only about the islanders and their lifestyles. place in French Polynesia where • Tiki Theatre Village (Moorea, one can sample the old ways. See French Polynesia): Built to resem- “Exploring Moorea” in chapter 5. ble a pre-European Tahitian village, • Rarotonga (Cook Islands): In addition to offering some of the e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 12

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region’s most laid-back beach vaca- for centuries—although tin roofs tions, the people of Rarotonga go have replaced thatch. The island of out of their way to let visitors Savai’i is especially well preserved. know about their unique Cook A highlight of any visit to Savai’i Islands way of life. A morning should be a tour with Warren spent at the Cook Islands Cul- Jopling, a retired Australian geolo- tural Village and on a cultural gist who has lived on Samoa’s tour of the island is an excellent largest island for many years. Not educational experience. For a look only does he know the forbidding at flora and fauna of the island, lava fields like the back of his hand, and their traditional uses, Pa’s but everyone on Savai’i knows him, Cross-Island Mountain Trek which helps make his cultural cannot be topped. See “Exploring commentaries extremely informa- Rarotonga” in chapter 8. tive. See “Savai’i” in chapter 12. • Fijian Village Visits (Fiji): Many • Tongan National Centre tours from Nadi and from most (Nuku’alofa, Tonga): Artisans turn offshore resorts include visits to out classic Tongan handcrafts, and traditional Fijian villages, whose a museum exhibits Tongan his- residents stage welcoming cere- tory, including the robe worn by monies (featuring the slightly nar- Queen Salote at the coronation of cotic drink kava) and then show Queen Elizabeth II in 1953; and visitors around and explain how the carcass of Tui Malila, a Galá- the old and the new combine in pagos turtle that Captain James today’s villages. See “Cultural Cook reputedly gave to the king Tours” in chapter 10. of Tonga in 1777, and which lived • Samoa: The entire country of until 1968. The center also has Samoa is a cultural storehouse of island-night dance shows and fa’a Samoa, the traditional Samoan feasts of traditional Tongan food. way of life. Most Samoans still live See “Exploring Tongatapu” in in villages featuring fales (oval chapter 14. houses), some of which have stood

6 The Best of the Old South Seas Many South Pacific islands are devel- king on Huahine, which makes it oping rapidly, with modern, fast-paced the “Island of Fruits.” There are cities replacing what were sleepy back- ancient marae (temples) to visit, water ports, such as those at Papeete in and the only town, tiny Fare, is lit- French Polynesia and Suva in Fiji. tle more than a collection of Chi- However, there are still many remnants nese shops fronting the island’s of the old South Sea days of coconut wharf, which comes to life when planters, beach bums, and missionaries. ships pull in. See “Huahine” in • Huahine (French Polynesia): chapter 7. Of the French Polynesian islands • Aitutaki (Cook Islands): Although frequented by visitors, Huahine it is now one of the hottest desti- has been the least affected by nations in the South Pacific, the tourism, and its residents are still little island of Aitutaki is still very likely to give you an unprompted much old Polynesia, with most of Tahitian greeting, “Ia orana!” As its residents still farming and fish- on Aitutaki, agriculture is still ing for a living. The crystal-clear e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 13

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lagoon is something to behold. sitting on reclaimed land, a num- See “Aitutaki” in chapter 8. ber of clapboard buildings and • Levuka (Ovalau Island, Fiji): No 19th-century churches make other town has remained the same Apia look much as it did when after a century as has Levuka, Fiji’s German, American, and British first European-style town and its warships washed ashore during original colonial capital in the a hurricane here in 1889. See 1870s. The dramatic cliffs of “Exploring Apia & the Rest of Ovalau Island hemmed in the Upolu” in chapter 12. town and prevented growth, so • Savai’i (Samoa): One of the largest the government moved to Suva in of all Polynesian islands, this great 1882. Levuka looks very much as volcanic shield also is one of the it did then, with a row of clap- least populated, with the oval- board general stores along pictur- shaped houses of traditional vil- esque Beach Street. See “A Side lages sitting beside freshwater Trip Back in Time to Levuka” box bathing pools fed by underground in chapter 10. springs. See “Savai’i” in chapter 12. • Taveuni Island (Northern Fiji): • Neiafu (Vava’u, Tonga): Although Like Savai’i, Fiji’s third-largest and Nuku’alofa, the capital on the most lush island has changed little main island of Tongatapu, gets since Europeans started coconut most of the ink about Tonga, the plantations there in the 1860s. little village of Neiafu on the With the largest remaining popu- sailor’s paradise of Vava’u has lation of indigenous plants and remained untouched by develop- animals of any South Pacific island, ment. Built by convicted adulter- Taveuni is a nature lover’s delight. esses, the Road of the Doves still See “Taveuni” in chapter 11. winds above the dramatic Port of • Apia (Samoa): Despite a sea wall Refuge, just as it did in 1875. See along what used to be a beach “Vava’u” in chapter 14. and two large high-rise buildings

7 The Best Dining Experiences You won’t be stuck eating island-style Wine connoisseurs will have ample food cooked in an earth oven (see opportunity to sample the vintages “Feasts from Underground Ovens” in from nearby Australia, where abun- the appendix), nor will you be limited dant sunshine produces renowned to the rather bland tastes of New full-bodied, fruit-driven varieties, such Zealanders and Australians, which pre- as chardonnay, semillon, Riesling, shi- dominate at many restaurants. Wher- raz, Hermitage, cabernet sauvignon, ever the French go, fine food and wine and merlot. New Zealand wines are are sure to follow, and French Polyne- also widely available, including dis- sia is no exception. The East Indians tinctive whites, such as chenin blanc, brought curries to Fiji, and chefs sauvignon blanc, and soft merlot. trained there have spread those spicy Freight and import duties drive up the offerings to the other islands. Many cost of wine, so expect higher prices chefs in Tonga are from Germany and than at home. Italy and specialize in their own • Auberge du Pacifique (Papeete, “native” food. Chinese cuisine of vary- Tahiti): Award-winning chef Jean ing quality can be found everywhere. Galopin has been blending French e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 14

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and Polynesian cuisines at his • Vilisite’s Seafood Restaurant lagoonside restaurant—with a (The Coral Coast, Fiji): This sea- removable roof to let in starlight— side restaurant, owned and oper- since 1974. He’s even written a ated by a friendly Fijian woman cookbook about Tahitian cooking. named Vilisite, doesn’t look like See p. 116. much from the outside, but it • Le Lotus (Papeete, Tahiti): The offers a handful of excellent most romantic setting of any seafood meals to augment a ter- South Pacific restaurant is in this rific view along Fiji’s Coral Coast overwater dining room at the from the veranda. See p. 301. Tahiti Beachcomber Inter-Conti- • Old Mill Cottage (Suva, Fiji): nental Resort. Even if the food Diplomats and government work- weren’t gourmet French and the ers pack this old colonial cottage at service highly efficient and unob- breakfast and lunch for some of the trusive, the view of Moorea on a region’s best and least expensive moonlit night makes an evening local fare. Offerings range from here special. See p. 116. English-style roast chicken with • Linareva Floating Restaurant mashed potatoes and peas to sweet and Bar (Moorea, French Polyne- Fijian-style palusami (fresh fish sia): With luck you won’t get wrapped in taro leaves and steamed queasy while dining at chef Eric in coconut milk). See p. 318. Lussiez’s charming restaurant, • Sails Restaurant and Bar (Apia, which occupies the original ferry Samoa): Ian and Lyvia Black have that plied between Tahiti and turned Robert Louis Stevenson’s Moorea. His menu highlights fresh first Samoan home into one of the seafood excellently prepared in the South Pacific’s best casual restau- classic French fashion. See p. 140. rants, complete with tables on an • Bloody Mary’s Restaurant & upstairs veranda overlooking his- Bar (Bora Bora, French Polyne- toric Beach Road and Apia Har- sia): A fun evening at the South bour. You’ll never forget the Pacific’s most famous restaurant Commodore Sashimi. See p. 380. is a must-do experience when • Seaview Restaurant (Nuku’alofa, on Bora Bora. That’s because Tonga): In a country where restau- Bloody’s offers the most unique rants come and go, this German- and charming dining experience owned establishment in an old in the islands. Come early for a waterfront home has for years pro- drink at the friendly bar, then pick vided Nuku’alofa’s best cuisine. your fresh seafood from atop a Tonga is the last island nation huge tray of ice. After eating heavy with an abundance of spiny tropi- French fare elsewhere for a few cal lobsters, so go for one here. days, the sauceless fish from the See p. 433. grill will seem downright refresh- • La Terrazza (Nuku’alofa, Tonga): ing. See p. 156. After two years of idle retirement • Chefs The Restaurant (Nadi, in Tonga, restaurateur Gino Bac- Fiji): Chef Eugeme Gomes’s estab- chi missed the cuisine of his native lishment has gourmet cuisine, Rome so much that he opened excellent service, and lots of little this fine Italian restaurant on touches that make for Fiji’s finest Nuku’alofa waterfront. He doesn’t dining experience. There’s a branch go hungry any more. Nor do we. in Suva, too. See p. 277. See p. 432. e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 15

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8 The Best Island Nights Don’t come to the South Pacific movements were quashed by the islands expecting opera and ballet, or missionaries in the early 19th cen- Las Vegas–style floor shows, either. tury. By the time the French took Other than pub-crawling to bars and over in 1841 and allowed dancing nightclubs with music for dancing, again, the Tahitians had forgotten evening entertainment here consists much of the old movements. They primarily of island nights, which turned to the Cook Islands, where invariably feature feasts of island foods dancing was—and still is—the followed by traditional dancing. thing to do when the sun goes In the cases of French Polynesia and down. In the Cooks the costumes the Cook Islands, of course, the hip- tend to be more natural and less swinging traditional dances are world colorful than in the Tahitian floor famous. They are not as lewd and las- shows, but the movements tend to civious today as they were in the days be more active, suggestive, and before the missionaries arrived, but genuine. There’s an island night they still have plenty of suggestive show every evening except Sunday movements to the primordial beat of on Rarotonga. The best troupes drums. By contrast, dancing in Fiji, usually perform at the Edgewater Tonga, and the Samoas is much more Resort and the Rarotongan Beach reserved, with graceful movements, Resort, but ask around. The best terrific harmony, and occasional public performances are during action in a war or fire dance. the annual Dancer of the Year • French Polynesia: Hotels are the contest in April and the Constitu- places in which to see Tahitian tion Week celebrations in August. dancing here. The resorts rely on See “Island Nights on Rarotonga” village groups to perform a few in chapter 8. times a week. The very best shows • Samoa: Among the great shows in are during the annual Heiva i the South Pacific are fiafia nights Tahiti festival in July; the winners in the magnificent main building then tour the other islands in at Aggie Grey’s Hotel in Apia. August for minifestivals at the This tradition was started in the resorts. See “Island Nights” in 1940s by the late Aggie Grey, who chapters 4 through 6. at the show’s culmination person- • The Cook Islands: Although the ally danced the graceful siva. Tahitians are more famous for Nowadays the show includes a their dancing than the Cook rousing fire dance around the Islanders, many of their original adjacent pool. See “Island Nights on Upolu” in chapter 12.

Weekend Pub Crawling Fundamentalist Christians may own Sundays in the islands, but Friday and Saturday nights definitely belong to the sinners. That’s because bar- hopping—or pub-crawling as it’s known out here—is the thing to do after dark on weekends. Every island has its favorite bars, which are packed until the wee hours on Friday night, until midnight on Saturday. There’s a dark side, however, for fights can break out, and drunken driving is a problem on those nights. e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 16

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• Tonga: The weekly shows at the and their meanings. That’s a big Tongan National Centre are help, since all songs throughout unique, for this museum provides the South Pacific are in the native expert commentary before each languages. See “Island Nights on dance, explaining its movements Tongatapu” in chapter 14.

9 The Best Buys Take some extra money along, for making of this bark cloth, widely you’ll spend it on handcrafts, black known as tapa, is another pre- pearls, and tropical clothing. served art in Tonga, Samoa (where For the locations of the best shops, it is known as siapo), and Fiji see the shopping sections in chapters 3 (where it is known as masi). The through 14. cloth is painted with dyes made • Black Pearls: Few people will from natural substances, usually escape French Polynesia or the in geometric designs whose ances- Cook Islands without buying at tries date back thousands of years. least one black pearl. That’s because Tapa is an excellent souvenir the shallow, clear-water lagoons of because it can be folded and French Polynesia’s Tuamotu archi- brought back in a suitcase. See pelago and the Manihiki and Pen- chapters 9 through 12 and 14. rhyn atolls in the Cook Islands are Woodcarvings are also popular. the world’s largest producers of Spears, war clubs, knives made the beautiful dark orbs. The seem- from sharks’ teeth, canoe prows, ingly inexhaustible supply has and cannibal forks are some exam- resulted in fierce competition by ples. Many carvings, however, vendors ranging from market tend to be produced for the stalls to high-end jewelry shops. tourist trade and often lack the See chapters 3 through 8. imagery of bygone days, and some • Handcrafts: Although many of may be machine-produced today. the items you will see in island Carved tikis are found in most souvenir shops are actually made South Pacific countries, but many in Asia, locally produced hand- of them resemble the figures of the crafts are the South Pacific’s best New Zealand Maoris rather than buys. The most widespread are figures indigenous to those coun- hats, mats, and baskets woven of tries. The carvings from the Mar- pandanus or other fibers, usually quesas Islands of French Polynesia by women who have maintained are the best of the lot today. See this ancient art to a high degree. chapter 3. Tonga has the widest selection of • Tropical Clothing: Colorful woven items, although Samoa and hand-screened, hand-blocked, and Fiji are making comebacks. The hand-dyed fabrics are very popular finely woven mats made in Tonga in the islands for making dresses and the Samoas are still highly val- or the wraparound skirt known as ued as ceremonial possessions and pareu in Tahiti and Rarotonga, are seldom for sale to tourists. See lava-lava in the Samoas and Tonga, chapters 9 through 12 and 14. and sulu in Fiji. Heat-sensitive Before the coming of European dyes are applied by hand to gauze- traders and printed cotton, the like cotton, which is then laid in South Pacific islanders wore gar- the sun for several hours. Flowers, ments made from the beaten bark leaves, and other designs are placed of the paper mulberry tree. The on the fabric, and as the heat of e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 17

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the sun darkens and sets the dyes, finished product. See chapters 3 the shadows from these objects through 14. leave their images behind on the

10 The Best Diving & Snorkeling All the islands have excellent scuba • Fiji: With nutrient-rich waters diving and snorkeling, and all but a welling up from the Tonga Trench few of the resorts either have their offshore and being carried by own dive operations or can easily strong currents funneling through make arrangements with a local com- narrow passages, Fiji is famous for pany. Here are the best: some of the world’s most colorful • Rangiroa and Manihi (French soft corals. This is especially true Polynesia): Like those surround- of the Somosomo Strait between ing most populated islands, some Vanua Levu and Taveuni in north- lagoons in French Polynesia have ern Fiji, home of the Rainbow been relatively “fished out” over Reef and its Great White Wall. the years. That’s not to say that The Beqa Lagoon is also famous diving in such places as Moorea for having plentiful soft corals. See and Bora Bora can’t be world class, “Taveuni” in chapter 11 and but the best is at Rangiroa, Manihi, “Pacific Harbour” in chapter 10. Tikehau, and Fakarava in the • Tonga: The north shore of the Tuamotu Archipelago, all more main island of Tongatapu fronts a famous more for their abundant huge lagoon, where the govern- sea life, including sharks, than col- ment has made national parks of orful soft corals. Go to Rangiroa the Hakaumama’o and Malinoa to see sharks; go to the others to reefs. The best diving in Tonga, see more fish than you imagined however, is around unspoiled ever existed. See chapter 7. Ha’apai and Vava’u. See “Ha’apai” and “Vava’u” in chapter 14.

11 The Best Sailing One would think that the South with long bays that shelter numer- Pacific is a yachting paradise, and it ous picturesque anchorages. Boats certainly gets more than its share of can be sailed completely around cruising boats on holiday from Aus- Tahaa without leaving the lagoon, tralia and New Zealand or heading and both Bora Bora and Huahine around the world (the region is on the are just 32km (20 miles) away over safest circumnavigation route). How- blue water. See “Raiatea & Tahaa” ever, the reefs in most places make in chapter 7. sailing a precarious undertaking, so • Vava’u (Tonga): The second most yachting is not that widespread. It has popular yachting spot, Vava’u is only recently gained a toehold in Fiji. virtually serrated by well-protected There are only two places where you bays like the nearby Port of Refuge. can charter a yacht and sail it yourself: Chains of small islands trail off the • Raiatea (French Polynesia): Firms south side of Vava’u like the tenta- have charter fleets based in Raiatea cles of a jellyfish, creating large and in the Leeward Islands of French very quiet cruising grounds. Many Polynesia. Raiatea shares a lagoon anchorages are off deserted islands with Tahaa, a hilly island indented with their own beaches. See “Vava’u” in chapter 14. e_556266 Ch01.qxd 5/24/04 2:48 PM Page 18

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12 The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences Some cynics might say that a visit to spent in one of Samoa’s beach the South Pacific itself is an offbeat fales—little thatch-roof buildings experience, but there are a few things perched beside one of that coun- to do that are even more unusual. try’s lovely beaches. Forget pri- • Getting Asked to Dance (every- vacy, since most are open-sided where): I’ve seen so many tradi- in traditional Samoan fashion. tional South Pacific dance shows But why block the view with that I now stand by the rear door, unnecessary walls? And the neigh- ready to beat a quick escape before bors you meet could become life- those lovely young women in grass time friends. See “Where to Stay skirts can grab my hand and force on Upolu” and “Where to Stay & me to make a fool of myself trying Dine on Savai’i” in chapter 12. to gyrate my hips up on the stage. • Worshipping with the King It’s part of the tourist experience at (Nuku’alofa, Tonga): It’s not every all resorts, and it’s all in good fun. day you get to see a real-life king, • Swimming with the Sharks (Bora but you can in Tonga. In fact, Bora, French Polynesia): A key you can even go to church with attraction in Bora Bora’s magnifi- him on Sunday, or perhaps watch cent lagoon is to snorkel with a him ride by in his big, black guide, who actually feeds a school SUV other days of the week. See of sharks as they thrash around “Surviving Sunday in Tonga” in in a frenzy. I prefer to leave this chapter 14. one to the Discovery Channel. • Cave Swimming (Samoa and See “Exploring Bora Bora” in Tonga): Boats can go right into chapter 6. Swallows Cave on one of the small • Riding the Rip (Rangiroa and islands that make up beautiful Manihi, French Polynesia): Vava’u, but you have to don masks Snorkelers will never forget the and snorkels and follow a guide flying sensation as they ride the underwater into Mariner’s Cave, strong currents ripping through a whose only light comes from the pass into the lagoons at Rangiroa passage you just swam through. and Manihi. See “Rangiroa” and See “Exploring Vava’u” in chapter “Manihi” in chapter 7. 14. You also have to swim under- • Sleeping in a Beach Fale water into the Piula Cave Pool in (Samoa): Even if you don’t like to Samoa. See “Exploring Apia & the camp, you’ll enjoy every minute Rest of Upolu” in chapter 12.