2012 VOL.7, NO.1 June-December 2012, VOL.7, NO.1

THE KAHALA

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PREPARED BY: Clara Huang EXT 100 Giga Communications, Inc. 42 W. 39th Street, 6th Floor, New Yo rk, NY 10018 Tel (212) 226-6080 Fax (212) 989-5588 [email protected] CONTENTS Volume 7, Number 1

Features 30 The Star Strummers Synonymous with Hawai‘i’s most beloved musical instrument, the ‘ukulele, Jake Shimabukuro has dazzled audiences all over the world, including Queen Elizabeth. He has also mentored another star, his younger brother, Bruce. Welcome to the lightning-bright world of the Brothers Shimabukuro.

Story by Jocelyn Fujii Photos by Dana Edmunds

36 The Liquid Prism ON THE COVER Photographer Dana Hawai‘i’s two most abundant elements, light and water, Edmunds captures the powerful synergy attain alchemical magic when seen through the lens of of elements in photographer Dana Edmunds. In capturing the synergy this photo of The of waves, waterfalls, lagoons and light, he offers a visual Kahala’s waterfall. vocabulary of beauty in its ephemeral, ethereal splendor.

Story by Jocelyn Fujii Photos by Dana Edmunds

42 Sacred Connections to a Distant Past The Northwest Hawaiian Islands are not just our northern Pacific neighbors. They’re a part of the Hawaiian archipelago, the largest single area in the country dedicated to conservation. With their artifacts and wildlife, they are Hawai‘i’s cultural past and hope for the future.

Story by Thelma Chang

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CONTENTS Volume 7, Number 1

66 Editor’s Note

Depar tments 13 PROFILES: The Firecracker at the Front Desk She leaves her mark on every moment of the guest experience and enjoys the challenge and teamwork of special requests. Meet Leah Chui, director of the front office. Story by Paula Rath Photos by Olivier Koning

17 INDULGENCES: Through the Eyes of the Keiki The Kahala is not just a playground for adults. Dolphins, turtles, the ocean and thoughtful keiki activities bring back multiple generations time and again. Story by Simplicio Paragas Photos by Dana Edmunds

23 IMPRESSIONS: The Wild Pleasure of It All Princess Ka‘iulani, niece of the ex-queen Lili‘uokalani and heiress to the throne of Hawai‘i, rides a Waikïkï wave in a canoe in 1898. This excerpt, from John R. K. Clark’s book, “Hawaiian Surfing: Traditions from the Past,” offers a glimpse into a riveting moment in Hawaiian history.

27 EXPLORATIONS: Planting the Past and Seeding the Future As the extinction capital of the world, Hawai‘i depends on environmental heroes to protect and preserve what’s left. Thanks to the efforts of our horticultural saviors, there’s hope. Story by Christine Thomas

52 TRANSLATIONS: By Chihiro Kitagawa and Mutsumi Matsunobu

64 Memory Book

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Editor’s Note

While many things in Hawai‘i are visible, there is much about these islands that isn’t. We can see and appreciate the ocean, the landscape, the radiant islanders with their smiles of aloha. But Hawai‘i has fascinating aspects that are fairly invisible, and which are under scrutiny by those who decode our past to discover the keys to our future. In this issue of The Kahala, the curtain parts on some of these mysterious and hidden, yet hugely significant elements of island life. The Northwest We’re thankful for the scientists, environmentalists and devoted cultural practitioners who work behind the scenes to preserve the Hawai‘i we know and don’t, as well as Hawaiian the Hawai‘i we hope will endure and thrive in the years ahead. On page 27, Christine Islands make Thomas acknowledges the quiet heroism of the researchers at Waimea Valley and Lyon Arboretum, who are identifying, preserving, propagating and reestablishing Hawai‘i’s up the largest endangered native plants and ecosystems. While the scientists work out of public view, their findings have an impact on Hawai‘i’s natural world, and we are thankful for their vigilance and dedication. Similarly, not many people realize the extent of the Hawaiian archipelago, which extends from south of the island of Hawai‘i, where an infant island is forming on the ocean floor, to Kure Atoll in the north, a distance of more than 1,500 miles. As Thelma Chang’s article reveals on page 42, the remote islands and atolls of the North- west Hawaiian Islands make up the largest single area dedicated to conservation in the United States. Little known to the rest of the world, they are a crucible of our cultural and environmental future. We also present, on page 23, an excerpt from John R. K. Clark’s new book, “Hawaiian Surfing: Traditions from the Past.” Clark, the foremost authority on Hawai‘i beaches and watersports, painstakingly researched Hawaiian-language texts from the 1800s to bring single area us this peerless chronicle. Riding the music wave on page 30, the Brothers Shimabukuro dedicated to share their passion for the ‘ukulele—soaring in popularity, an underdog no more. And because water is an ongoing theme at The Kahala, photographer Dana conservation Edmunds brings his luminous lens into sharp focus on page 36. From ocean to in the U.S. waterfalls to lagoons and ponds, we see in his essay the way art and nature intersect to bring us things of beauty. Children share their stories, too, in an article by Simplicio Paragas. On page 17, the keiki of The Kahala describe their perfect world, and on page 13, we see how Leah Chui, the front office director, cheerfully takes on the challenge of pleasing children and adults unflappably. Seen and unseen, visible or not, micro to macro, we present the many wondrous layers of this environment. We welcome you to these worlds, and we hope you enjoy the adventure.

Jocelyn Fujii ©GREG MCFALL/NOAA 6

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Purveyors of Fine Rugs to The Kahala Resort EDITORIAL Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson

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Contributing Writers Thelma Chang John R. K. Clark Simplicio Paragas Paula Rath Christine Thomas

Contributing Photographers Ann Cecil Dana Edmunds Alyssa Fedele Olivier Koning Wayne Levin Greg McFall Add a Touch of Aloha! Japanese Translation OAHU LOCATIONS: Chihiro Kitagawa Gentry Pacific Design Center Mutsumi Matsunobu 560 N. Nimitz Hwy. #101 Honolulu, Hawaii 96817 (Between KMart & City Mill) 808.524.7769  The Kahala (Vol.7, No. 1) is published by Where Hawaii, 1833 Kalakaua Ave, Ward Avenue Store Ste. 810, Honolulu, HI, 96815. www.mvpislands.com Copyright© 2012 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This pub- 550 Ward Avenue lication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in Honolulu, Hawaii 96814 whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any (Corner of Ward & Waimanu) advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify 808.596.7333 the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Printed in China www.hawaiianrugs.com

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Profiles

The Firecracker Ad at theFront Desk Helping guests feel at home STORY BY PAULA RATH P HOTOS BY OLIVIER KONING

he front desk is the heartbeat of the requests. In all, she manages 57 employees. T hotel,” said Leah Chui, with obvious Among Chui’s many responsibilities is mak- pride. She should know. She began her career ing sure that every guest is treated like a VIP. as a guest-service agent at the front desk. “This job is a lot about being a step ahead of Now the bright, ambitious 29-year-old, a the game. You need vision and thinking ahead, native of Singapore, is director of The Kahala’s projecting guests’ needs,” she noted. It’s about front office, overseeing not only the front anticipating a request before it is even voiced desk, but also the bell desk, valets, concierges, and ensuring that every guest experiences a telephone operators and VIP special little of The Kahala’s magic. “We make it feel

THE KAHALA 13

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Making Magic Leah Chui and her staff never know what they might be asked to do or provide. “If it’s asked of us, we try to make it happen,” she said. “We like it when something we do makes a guest feel, like, ‘Wow! It’s magic!’” Here are just a few of the many requests from guests in recent years. The Kahala’s guest list has included travelers from around the world, as well as dignitaries and celebrities:

• Workout equipment • Numerous special in the room food requests, including fresh goat’s milk • To turn an adjacent room into a walk-in • A razor replacement closet for a favorite that a guest forgot. A staff • A particular brand of member made a spe- diapers for a celeb's cial trip to go out and baby buy it, and now the • The TV switched to same type of razor accommodate a brand appears every time preference the guest arrives.

• A special kitchenette • A guest loved a sweet installed in the room potato dish he had at for a private chef, on Hoku’s and requested an entire floor booked it with every meal. for an entourage The chef made sure he got it. Ad

It’s about like magic, but the magic comes with home- and Chinese cultural dance. She also sings work,” she added. “We have the elves working.” karaoke and plays piano. For “Kahala Has Tal- anticipating a Chui enjoys teamwork. “Special requests ent,” the employee talent show held in January, are a lot of fun. It’s like a team production,” she she brought together a team of managers and request before said, often involving engineering, housekeep- choreographed a dance routine. it’s even voiced. ing, purchasing, sales, and food and beverage. The Kahala Hotel & Resort is a popular Although Chui is gentle, petite and soft-spo- place for celebrities, politicians, CEOs and (Above) Leah Chui, front ofﬁce director, is a smiling and energetic ken, many of her fellow employees refer to her heads of state. President Barack Obama, the presence who works miracles as a “firecracker.” A 2002 graduate of Hawai‘i emperor and empress of Japan, Sir Elton John, behind the scenes. Pacific University’s School of Travel Industry former President Bill Clinton, Michael Jackson Management, she is clearly a rising star in the and Alicia Keys are among the luminaries who hospitality industry. have stayed here, and whose portraits line the In 2009, Chui married Sherman Lee, a Wall of Fame. The hotel’s location, away from fitness buff who works in sales. “He’s really the madding crowd of Waikïkï, offers a sense supportive of my career,” she said. “We bal- of privacy and serenity that the guests appreci- ance each other because he’s an extrovert, and ate. One evening, a guest reported walking into I’m an introvert.” Although her job demands The Veranda and seeing Cameron Diaz and much of her time and energy, Chui is passion- Drew Barrymore, chatting away over a cocktail. ate about all things musical. A soprano, she Then Goran Visnjic walked in and decided to loves to sing ballads, especially those of Mariah join them. It’s obvious they all felt very much at Carey and the late Whitney Houston. She grew home at The Kahala. And that’s exactly the goal up dancing in Singapore: modern dance, ballet of Chui and her staff. ❀

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Title to Come

Through the Eyes of

thThey can havee it all, tooKeiki STORY BY SIMPLICIO PARAGAS P HOTOS BY DANA EDMUNDS

Keiki guests in the Dolphin auren Kaplan will never forget her ninth “And then I got to swim with them. How Quest Oahu program. Lbirthday. Celebrating the occasion with cool is that?” her family, while vacationing at The Kahala, The Kahala has been the preferred destina- the “Entertainment Tonight” kid reporter tion for four generations of Kaplans, including received a priceless gift that’s forever etched in Lauren’s father, Ken, whose first sojourn to the her memory. property was at 6 years old. Now 45, the San “The dolphins sang ‘Happy Birthday’ Diego resident still visits the fabled property, to me and my sister, Samantha,” says the bringing along his wife, Diana, and his two seventh grader. other daughters, Samantha, 15, and Sophia, 10.

THE KAHALA 17

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“It feels more like home there than anywhere else,” says Ken. “It’s where I learned how to play backgammon and dominoes. Let’s just say it was my introduction to math and reasoning.” When Conrad Hilton opened The Kahala Hilton in January 1964, the 10-story building was a secluded getaway with its own private dolphin lagoon and a well-manicured golf course next door. With its private location, yet with attractions like Waikïkï and Hanauma Bay still accessible, The Kahala appealed to dignitaries, sports figures and celebrities. It was even nicknamed “KaHollywood.” While the property was once heralded as a playground for adults, it’s growing in popularity “It feels more among families. The turnabout, says General Manager Roseann Grippo, is a seismic shift like home than from a decade ago, when The Kahala was anywhere else.” known for its clientele of honeymooners and the rich and famous. “You didn’t see many kids —KEN KAPLAN running around the pool then,” she adds. “But now we’re starting to see a resurgence of parents (Below) A lively group lesson coming here with the entire family.” before taking to the water. (Right) Building sand castles is a Among them are the Kaplans, who hope to child’s dream. return in the summer with Ken’s grandfather,

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Indulgences

Enjoy an icy treat in the keiki pool.

Milton. He was the first in the family to stay at the hotel, shortly after it opened. Even though she was just four years old during her last visit, Sophia Kaplan can still vividly picture the resort. “I just remember waking up, and it was so beautiful and relaxing,” says the youngest of the Kaplans. “I remember feeding the turtles, and I’ll never forget the thin pancakes, which are the best I’ve ever had.” She and her sisters can’t stop thinking—or talking—about their Dolphin Quest experience, which provides children an enjoyable and educational encounter with Atlantic bottlenose dolphins. “They learn about the animals in a fun and interactive way,” says Sook Russell, the Dolphin Quest Oahu general manager. “For some, it sparks their intellectual curiosity, and they start teaching their parents what they learned. One kid told me that it was the greatest experience of his life, beating out Disney.” Indeed, The Kahala possesses its own “Magic Kingdom” charm that enchants children and educates them about Hawaiian culture. Whether it’s frolicking with the dolphins or participating in one of the many Keiki Club programs, kids will be engaged for their entire vacation. According to Spa and Recreation Director Nicole Madosik, they can even have a spa day. “We introduced a keiki spa menu, which offers shorter massages, lomi-lomi, skin brushing and treatments that are suitable for our younger clients,” Madosik explains. “We also have a therapist who will teach parents to massage their infants to soothe them.” Most calming for the Kaplans is the hotel’s CD, “Moments of Delight,” which they took home from their last visit. “We still fall asleep to it at night,” Diana Kaplan says. “And when Lauren and Sam get tense before exam day, they play it to relax. We brought The Kahala home with us.” ❀

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Impressions Profile The Wild Pleasure of ItAll The princess rides a wave Title toSTORY BY JOHN R. K. CLARK Come

The Kahala’s Warren Sasaki has an uncanny ability Ad to see things before they’re actually there

n June 30, 1898, Princess Ka‘iulani was day from the Burton Holmes Travelogues. The O among the dignitaries at a luncheon princess passed away less than a year later. on Waikïkï Beach. Filmmaker Burton Holmes and his assistant, Carl De Pue, were on hand We are to ride the surf• in native boats—a with their motion picture camera. In this excerpt water-sport more thrilling, more delightful than from Hawaiian Surfing: Traditions from the Past, anything ever devised by man in civilized lands the acclaimed and painstakingly researched ... Five happy boat-loads race far out to meet the book published by University of Hawai‘i Press, huge incoming breakers; then we reach the place John R. K. Clark shares details of that historic where the grand ocean-swells come rolling in like

THE KAHALA 23

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smooth, watery mountain-ranges, we pause and wait, allowing fluid Catskills and liquid Allegh- enies to glide past us, for we are waiting for the Rockies and the Himalayas. At last there comes a range of billows worthy of our crews, who raise a wild shout. “Hoi! Hoi! Hoi!” the boatmen howl, and this word is taken “We are to up by the shrill cries of the women; then all hands paddle frantically shoreward until the ride the surf in boat attains the proper speed—a speed that per- native boats— mits the towering wall of water to overtake the canoe and lift up the stern. From that moment a water-sport we are the toy and plaything of that shoreward- moving ride of water ... at a speed of thirty miles more thrilling an hour. There before me is the Princess Kaiu- than anything lani, her face aglow with excitement, shouting and paddling frantically, her eyes flashing with ever devised the wild pleasure of it all. Then out we race for another and another of by man ... ” these exhilarating dashes. And while waiting there — BURTON HOLMES near the reef for waves worthy of our mettle, all hands plunge overboard, and the sea around the (Right) Burton Holmes in 1903. canoes is alive with human porpoises, until at the (Below) Princess Ka‘iulani, seated on the right, and Beatrice cry of “Hoi!” again, all clamber in and paddle and Webb on Waikïkï Beach. yell and thrill with the very joy of living. ❀ Ad (PREVIOUS PAGE) ©BOB ABRAHAM/PACIFIC STOCK; (THIS PAGE FROM TOP) BURTON HOLMES ARCHIVE; MUSEUM OF BRITISH SURFING/TREVELYAN FAMILY TRUSTEES 24

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LeSportsac_Kahala11.indd 1 12/03/29 16:28 Explorations

Planting the Past and Seeding theFuture Hawai’i’s green heroes Hibiscus koki‘o, subspecies St. STORY BY CHRISTINE THOMAS Johnianus, is not endangered but is in decline, due to hurri- canes and weather damage.

t’s easy to recognize the distinct architec- one of Hawai‘i’s 1,200 native plant species. I ture of the hala tree, also known as pan- “Everyone used to think hala was a canoe danus, or screw pine. Its curious aerial roots plant,” says David Orr, botanical collections perch in many island landscapes; its pointed specialist at Waimea Valley’s botanical gar- leaves are woven into lauhala mats; and its fruit dens, referring to plants carried here 1,700 is strung into lei symbolizing the healing of years ago by Polynesian voyagers. “Hurricane past troubles. But what many don’t know is that ‘Iniki, in 1992, revealed the fossil of the hala unlike emblematic introduced species, such as fruit on the North Shore of Kaua‘i. That one bird of paradise and plumeria, hala is actually episode is what made us realize that hala is an ©NELLIE SUGGII THE KAHALA 27

OAHKA_120600_NativePlants.indd 27 4/6/12 10:51:53 AM Explorations

endemic plant.” It was valued by the ancient On the North Shore, most visitors enter Hawaiians and is still in popular use today. Waimea Valley intent on hiking to its gentle wa- Discovering a thriving native tree bucks the terfall, not strolling through 150 acres of botani- trend and remains significant at a time when cal gardens budding with exotic plants such as around 350 of Hawai‘i’s native plant species— loulu palms, hapu‘u ferns and Hawaiian hibiscus. 90 percent of them found nowhere else—are “They come for the waterfall, then they threatened and endangered. Their decline has have their epiphany when they start looking profound ecological and environmental con- at all the beautiful plants—and their lives are sequences and cultural repercussions. Fortu- transformed by the time they’re halfway up to nately, a few organizations throughout the state the waterfall,” says Orr. are sending dedicated botanists into the lab The gardens are part of Waimea Valley’s resto- and remote island areas to actively restore and ration plan, fueled by volunteers in two ambitious preserve native plants for Hawai‘i’s people. initiatives—reestablishing functioning native ecosystems, and locating and protecting intact native “We need DANGERS AND DELIGHTS plant populations. In the past year, the botanists While some species are more sensitive to discovered several endangered populations of to make a threats than others, Hawai‘i’s native flora are nïoi, in the myrtle family, and 10 acres, high in connection clearly vulnerable to formidable competitors: the valley, dominated by rare native plants. aggressive invasive species, including weeds to these plants and canopy trees; wild boar; and land develop- IN THE VALLEY ment, with climate change looming. As diverse At the 194-acre Lyon Arboretum, tucked at the so the public species are out-bullied, native insects like the back of Mänoa Valley, the canopy of invasive can care about Hawaiian Damselfly and birds like the Hawai- plants that once dwarfed the two-acre Native ian Hawk also lose their habitats and perish. Hawaiian Garden is gone, replaced by young preserving The erosion of natural resources and plants plantings of indigenous and endemic flora species.” also threatens cultural practices that rely on such as koa, lama and pükiawe shrubs. them, such as hula, fishing, and tool making. As While Lyon is generally known for its robust — LILOA DUNN Christopher Dunn, director of Honolulu’s Lyon heliconia and ginger collections, Director Arboretum, points out, “If you lose something Christopher Dunn has refocused efforts toward (This page) Kokia cookei, Hawaiian red cotton, one of of your biological heritage, you’re losing some- restoring and preserving plant and crop varieties. the world’s most endangered thing of humanity’s cultural and linguistic heri- One of his fruitful community partnerships plant species, was saved tage as well—both disappear simultaneously.” is with Hälau Kü Mäna charter school in the by Waimea Valley botanists. (Opposite, clockwise from The good news is that Dunn and colleagues Makiki area of Honolulu, where students have top) Hapu‘u fern, Kanaloa throughout Hawai‘i combat these challenges helped plant different varieties of kalo (taro, a kahoolawensis, koki‘o with abundant passion. They speak of individual culturally vital canoe plant) and restore ancient ke‘oke‘o and hala are among the treasured plants as if they were cherished keiki (children) lo‘i (irrigated terraces) where they grow. Other plants of Hawai‘i. and tell inspiring stories, such as the tale of Kokia efforts occur completely out of the wild, and cookei, the Hawaiian red cotton tree, one of the inside Lyon’s micropropagation laboratory and world’s most endangered plant species. Before seed bank, the only one of its scale in the state. the last plant on Moloka‘i became extinct in the In slim glass vials, 15,000 plants—including wild, Waimea Valley botanists grafted a branch native ground orchids, mints and hühü, a onto a related species, viewable at their gardens. bellflower species rescued from extinction— There’s also the critically endangered Kanaloa await secure replanting sites, such as on Nature plant, remaining in the wild on a Kaho‘olawe Conservancy and U.S. Army land. cliff and luckily being grown from seed in small “There’s tons of stuff here that is really quantities on Maui and Kaua‘i. rare,” says Nellie Sugii, who has reproduced more than 300 different native species in INTO THE MOUNTAINS the micropropagation lab. “It’s pretty much Though these plants and their anonymous de- priceless—if these are gone, they’re gone.” fenders lie quietly in the background, they can “We need to make a connection to these be found at O‘ahu’s central plant conservation plants so the public can care about preserving organizations, situated on opposite ends of the species,” adds colleague Liloa Dunn. “We Ko‘olau Mountains. need to bridge that gap.” ❀ 6:37 a.m. 28

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(OPPOSITE) ©NELLIE SUGGII; (CENTER) ©ZACHERY WINGERT; (OTHERS) ©ANN CECIL THE KAHALA 4/6/12 10:52:24 AM 29 The ambassadors of peace, love and ’ukulele share their love of the instrument THE STAR STRUMMERS

STORY BY JOCELYN FUJII PHOTOS DANA EDMUNDS 30 THE KAHALA

OAHKA_120600_StarStrummers.indd 30 4/6/12 10:59:34 AM STORY BY JOCELYN FUJII PHOTOS BY DANA EDMUNDS

THE STAR STRUMMERS

JAKE (LEFT) AND BRUCE SHIMABUKURO THE KAHALA 31

OAHKA_120600_StarStrummers.indd 31 4/6/12 10:59:40 AM e all know the instrument. It is, relatively speaking, small, larger than a harmonica but more diminutive than a bass or cello. Many people have played it—George Harrison, John Lennon, Elvis Presley, Laurel & Hardy, WArthur Godfrey, Tiny Tim, Bob Hope and even, more recently, Pearl Jam’s Eddie Vedder. But until Jake Shimabukuro hit the scene, no one had ever imagined that so much sound could be created from the four strings of the ‘ukulele, an instrument blazing to new heights of popularity today. Shimabukuro has jammed with Francis Ford Coppola, played for Queen Elizabeth, toured with Jimmy Buffet, performed with Yo-Yo Ma and Cyndi Lauper. He’s known as the “Jimmie Hendrix of the ‘ukulele” and has wowed audiences worldwide—not only with his musical wizardry, but also with his immensely likable personality. He is a pop icon in Japan and universally loved in Hawai‘i, where his quiet generosity to many good causes is equal to his musical virtuosity. “Peace love ‘ukulele” is his motto, and when you hear him play, you’ll know what he means. “I truly believe that if everyone played the ‘ukulele, the world would be a better place,” he says earnestly. “To me, there’s something magical about the ‘ukulele in its simplest form.” He talks about picking up the ‘ukulele as a 4-year-old, playing three chords, and being overcome with joy. The ‘ukulele, he says, is the instrument of peace and love, the underdog of all instruments—friendly, compact, approachable, playable. While best known as a dazzling and passionate performer, he is also a mentor to his younger brother, whom he’s taught along the way. Today, individually and collaboratively, 35-year-old Jake and 30-year-old Bruce Shimabukuro are significant figures in the meteoric rise of the ‘ukulele, a wooden instrument adapted from the Portuguese braguinha in the 19th century. While Jake is still the star who tours, records and performs full time, Bruce, who has five albums under his belt, is a dedicated songwriter and ‘ukulele instructor. His shop, The Ukebox, is a popular pau hana (after work) stop for friends, students and players. The brothers both play tenor ‘ukulele, are best friends (they were best man at each other’s wedding) and are riveting onstage together. At a recent sold-out performance at Chai’s Bistro, the brothers dazzled the audience with Hawaiian, classical, flamenco, pop, rock and other musical traditions, with jazzy riffs in between. When their mother, Carol, joined them with a Hawaiian song, well, you can imagine. It was their mother, Carol, who first put an ‘ukulele in her four-year-old son’s hands. “I just fell in love with it,” recalls Jake. “I got really into it, and that’s all I did for a long time ... I never wanted to go to the park to play basketball, I was never into sports, I was never into anything but music. I would come home from school, lock myself in my room, and just play. “Bruce has all these other interests, and he’s really good at a lot of things—video editing, basketball, football, golf.” He chuckles, looking sheepish. “After I play for about six hours and want to take a break, I’ll play for another two hours.” “He gives passion new meaning,” adds his brother.

(THIS PAGE) BRUCE SHIMABUKURO; (OPPOSITE PAGE) JAKE SHIMABUKURO

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OAHKA_120600_StarStrummers.indd 32 4/6/12 10:59:59 AM OAHKA_120600_StarStrummers.indd 33 4/6/12 11:00:03 AM OAHKA_120600_StarStrummers.indd 34 4/6/12 12:04:18 PM “What the world needs now is more ‘ukulele.”

—JAKE SHIMABUKURO

Their mother played an ‘ukulele made by Kamaka Hawai‘i Inc., a local company founded in 1916. Jake has played nothing else. “Casey Kamaka, to me, is the best ‘ukulele luthier in the world,” he says. “There’s no one better. There are a lot of great makers in the world, and their craftsmanship is fantastic. But it’s the sound that makes the difference. There are some ‘ukulele that look really nice, but when you close your eyes and listen, they sound like a classical guitar.” Part of an ‘ukulele’s distinction, he adds, is what he calls “that twangy ‘ukulele sound.” That’s what makes the ‘ukulele, he adds, and all the Kamaka instruments have it. “You’re supposed to have that tinny sound. It’s not supposed to sound big and full and warm, like a classical guitar. So if you’re looking for that traditional sound, Kamaka is it. You have the natural twang of the ‘ukulele, but you can develop the big sound if you want to.” While he calls it an underdog, the ‘ukulele is astonishingly popular. Avid collectors, players and ‘ukulele clubs can found around the world, including the U. S., Australia, Sweden, France and the United Kingdom, where the Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britain has a large following. Contributing to the ‘ukulele’s appeal, says Jake, is its size and portability. What about the player? His fingers are a blur, his music breaks new ground and he literally hops with energy onstage, like the “jumping flea” after which his instrument is named. Listen to him play “Bohemian Rhapsody,” “While My Guitar Gently Weeps,” “Hallelujah” or “143 (Kelly’s Song),” written for his wife, and see if it doesn’t tug at your heartstrings. Or “Ave Maria” and “In My Life,” the Beatles tune he played with Bette Midler for Queen Elizabeth. His riffs are pure ‘ukulele, but through his sheer control and versatility, they can sound like a flamenco guitar, violin, koto, waterfall, drum, bells and a panoply of other instruments. Whether a Latin beat, a ballad, a lullaby or a rock number from Queen, a Shimabukuro performance is pure emotion wrapped up in a wallop of entertainment. The incomparable TED (Technology, Entertainment and Design) annual conference thinks so, too, because Jake has spoken and performed at seven of them, including the regional versions, called TEDx. The annual TED conference gathers the country’s leading thinkers and offers their presentations, free, online. “Peace Love ‘Ukulele” was his theme for his first TED presentation. Held in Long Beach, Cali- fornia, in 2010, it held him in awe, even as a presenter. “After my presentation I walked to the lobby, and within 15 minutes, I had shaken hands with Al Gore and Paul Simon,” he recalls. Bill Gates was a presenter, and he spotted Matt Groening, creator of “The Simpsons,” in an audience peppered with luminaries. The event led to Jake’s involvement in the regional TEDx events, allowing him to spread the gospel of ‘ukulele across the global stage. “The theme for the first year was ‘What the World Needs Now,’ so my whole presentation was: What the world needs now is more ‘ukulele.” This is not just empty idealism. With his jumping-flea fingers and irrepressible creativity, Jake is a familiar figure at fundraisers, in public service announcements, in schools and hospitals and nurs- ing homes. Two days after the tsunami hit Japan last year, he was on Waikiki Beach Walk with the Honolulu Festivals, performing in a benefit that raised $25,000 for the tsunami victims. He is not an “I” person, but a “we” person, active in community outreach and projects that motivate young people to make positive changes in the community through music. His brother, Bruce, the father of a three-year-old boy, helps out as often as he can. The brothers collaborate as often as possible and look forward to time spent together, whether it’s jamming, performing, playing tennis or diving. There’s no shred of sibling rivalry here. And as consum- mate players and ambassadors of the ‘ukulele, they have peerless advice for the rest of us. “You don’t have to be good to enjoy it,” Bruce concludes. “Just find a way to play it, and you’ll have a lot of fun.”❀

THE BROTHERS SHIMABUKURO JAM IN WAIKÏKÏ.

OAHKA_120600_StarStrummers.indd 35 4/6/12 11:00:26 AM

The

STORY BY JOCELYN FUJII LiquidPrismPHOTOS BY DANA EDMUNDS

OAHKA_120600_PhotoEssay_Light.indd 36 4/6/12 11:01:54 AM The Hawaiian lexicon has dozens of words for water. There’s spring water, wai puna. And ocean water, kai. And flowing water, wai kahe. And sparkling water, wai lohia, and ice water, wai hau. The Hawaiians regard water, wai, as wealth and abundance, a source of life and a pillar of their world. In aquaculture, voyaging, wave riding and more, the liquid legacy of the Hawaiians is limitless. Light, shadow and motion are water’s partners in this fleeting landscape, creat- ing magic and mirrors in the wonders of the natural world. Dolphins, turtles and fish live and dance in luminosity, skin and carapace aglow. At The Kahala, the ponds, lagoons and waterfalls speak their own language of beauty. A turn of the head, a shoulder of sand, and there is the larger water. The ocean is alive, anointed with the sheen of sunset. Hold this moment: The light will recede, and the day will become an illusion. If a lake is the earth’s eye, as Henry Da- vid Thoreau once wrote, the ocean is its soul, and light its wondrous reflection.

A lone dancer in the turtle pool flashes his peacock colors.

THE KAHALA 37

OAHKA_120600_PhotoEssay_Light.indd 37 4/6/12 11:02:12 AM A fleeting light show on the surface of the dolphin lagoon. (Right) With the hotel reflected on its back, a dolphin plays in the dolphin lagoon. Gold is the color of sunrise in The Kahala's front yard, the ocean.

OAHKA_120600_PhotoEssay_Light.indd 38 4/6/12 11:02:25 AM THE KAHALA 39

OAHKA_120600_PhotoEssay_Light.indd 39 4/6/12 11:02:48 AM 40

OAHKA_120600_PhotoEssay_Light.indd 40 4/6/12 11:03:06 AM Facing east-southeast from The Kahala's peninsula, a saluta- tion to the morning sun. (Left) The turtle lagoon's prima ballerina. GREEN SAND BEACH NEAR KA LAE, OR SOUTH POINT, IS TINTED WITH PULVERIZED OLIVINE FROM THE CINDER CONE ADJOINING IT. THE KAHALA 41

OAHKA_120600_PhotoEssay_Light.indd 41 4/6/12 11:03:12 AM Sacred connections to a Distant Past A glimpse into the world’s

most remote

archipelago

OAHKA_120600_Papa.indd 42 4/6/12 11:51:41 AM Sacred connections to a Distant Past

BY THELMA CHANG PHOTOGRAPHY BY WAYNE LEVIN

A BOOBY SOARS AT SUNRISE AT NIHOA ISLAND.

OAHKA_120600_Papa.indd 43 4/6/12 11:04:34 AM SOOTY TERNS BLANKET THE SKIES ABOVE KURE ATOLL. (RIGHT) THE PADDLERS REACH THEIR DESTINATION, BEARING THE HAWAIIAN FLAG.

OAHKA_120600_Papa.indd 44 4/6/12 11:04:50 AM as we approached land, I suddenly saw a cloud of birds, thousands of birds, coming at our canoe like a thick blanket. At a distance it looked dark, then gray, and got lighter. ‘What is that?’ I felt uplifted. —KIMOKEO KAPAHULEHUA, approaching Nihoa on a canoe with his fellow voyagers

ising to the challenge of the ocean, the paddlers finally reached the southern edge of their goal: a remote, contiguous archipelago about 150 miles north of Kaua‘i andR Ni‘ihau, the northernmost of the Hawaiian Islands. Having traveled from the southernmost island of Hawai‘i, the voyagers were worlds and centuries away from their home island. They had arrived at the Northwest Hawaiian Islands (NWHI), considered the world’s most remote archipelago, a hotspot of biological diversity encompassing an estimated 140,000 square miles of atolls, seamounts, healthy reefs, shipwrecks and a sheer abundance of wildlife. The sight of so many seabirds in the sky at once astounded the voyagers, especially with the overpowering thunder of their wings

THE KAHALA 45

OAHKA_120600_Papa.indd 45 4/6/12 11:04:57 AM Mokumanamana is known for its high concentration of religious and ceremonial shrines.

OAHKA_120600_Papa.indd 46 4/6/12 11:05:18 AM ness of the central Pacific. The islands, a study of evolution in isolation, are a remarkable example of ancient and fiery volcanic island formations. “Oh my goodness, this is what Hawai‘i used to look like—that’s what I first thought,” said Randy Kosaki, of his own visits to the area as a scientist and technical diver. Kosaki is a deputy superintendent for the region’s field and research programs at the Na- tional Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). Water is his element. “I’m a fish nerd, and the sea life at the archipelago is amazing,” he continued. “Lots and lots of kümü [goatfish] and ulua [mature trevally]. Big predatory fishes in abundance, such as sharks. You can see a 100-pound ulua daily. The fish rule the ocean.” This is especially true of the northern part of the chain, at Midway, Kure Atoll and the Pearl and Hermes Atoll, where at least half of all the fish observed so far are endemic, existing only in these waters. In recognition of its significance, the entire site was designated, in 2007, as the Papahän- aumokuäkea Marine National Monument, the largest single area dedicated to conservation in the United States. Even when pronounced phonetically, with or without the proper accents on vowels, the name Papa-HAH-now-mo-koo-AH-keh-ah flows from the tongue like music. It refers to an ancient Hawaiian oli, or chant, that addresses the profound darkness from which life forms emerged. It symbolizes the merging of Earth Mother and Sky Father and the creation of a people and a sacred place that nur- Propelled by a cultural and spiritual commit- tures life, and to which the spirit returns after death. ment, the voyagers took six years to complete the Native Hawaiians regard Papahänaumokuäkea more than 1,500-mile journey. They did it in with reverence as they connect with their ances- increments, and when they reached their destina- tral gods and honor a spiritual and physical past tion, they were greeted by a bird-filled sky that as- through careful stewardship on land and in the sea. tonished them: masses of seabirds that were but a Their ancestors had lived within thoughtful and fraction of the14 million estimated in the NWHI. sustainable traditions. Kapahulehua and his team were looking at Taken to a practical level, this approach makes Nihoa, a rugged, imposing 171-acre island with a a lot of sense—past, present and future. vertical 900-foot cliff. It appeared, he said, to be There, left to nature without the heavy impact a guardian at the gate, saying, “Leave me alone.” of westernization, Papahänaumokuäkea is home to The awestruck visitors faced an archipelago that more than 7,000 marine species, a quarter of which, stretched 1,200 miles northward, to Kure Atoll and astonishingly, are found nowhere else on Earth. Midway Island—a lei of natural jewels in the vast- Scientists, researchers and Native Hawaiian cultural practitioners are among those granted the (FROM TOP) ULUA, CALLED “JACKS,” NEAR LISIANSKI privilege to visit and learn, so they can educate ISLAND. GOATFISH BENEATH THE PIER AT MIDWAY ISLAND. others. What they experience, they say, is a daz- KIMOKEO KAPAHULEHUA BLOWS THE CEREMONIAL PÜ. (OPPOSITE) A RARE VIEW OF MO‘O HEAD, MOKUMANAMANA, zling array of sights, sounds, smells and colors.

(THIS PAGE TOP TWO) ©GREG MCFALL/NOAA; (BOTTOM) ©ALYSSA FEDELE ALSO KNOWN AS NECKER ISLAND. Threatened green sea turtles lounge by the

THE KAHALA 47

OAHKA_120600_Papa.indd 47 4/6/12 11:05:34 AM Native Hawaiians approach Papahanaumokuakea with reverence.

to depths exceeding 250 feet in the monument’s waters. “Predator fishes are only 3 percent of the fish biomass in Hawai‘i, but they’re about 54 percent of the fish biomass up north. There are 10 main reefs within the monument.” Surrounded by such raw and natural beauty, it’s no wonder the early Polynesians considered the area sacred. Signs of their presence are visible, particu- larly on Nihoa and the nearby island of Mokumana- mana, also known as Necker Island. “We asked for permission to enter the monument waters,” said Andy Collins, NOAA’s education and technology coordinator for Papahänaumokuäkea. “The first time there, we did not go on the island. But from shore, you can see into the valleys and spot the stone terraces. The early Polynesians left before Captain Cook arrived in Hawaiian waters.” Early Hawaiians left Nihoa roughly between 400 to 700 years ago—not surprising, since the island has been described by some observers as “hot and dry,” “lacking in water,” “parched,” and “sometimes Ad lush,” depending on when you were there. Neighboring Mokumanamana, about 155 miles northwest of Nihoa, is a petite island of 46 acres, known for its high concentration of religious and shoreline. Rare short-tailed albatross nest. Endan- ceremonial shrines. The island is on the Tropic of gered monk seals forage in deep waters among Cancer, the latitude that marks the northernmost bamboo corals and shipwrecks. A scarce Laysan position where the sun appears directly overhead at duck struts on the sand. its highest point relative to Earth. Given the early An estimated 4,500 square miles of stunning, Hawaiians’ keen insights into nature—and their mostly healthy coral reefs, known as the “rain- ability, for example, to read its signs and voyage forests of the seas,” look like ancient gardens of long distances over the open ocean without long ago. Apex (top-level) predator fishes, such navigational instruments—it wouldn’t be difficult as sharks and jacks, dominate the colorful reefs. to imagine Mokumanamana’s significance in They swim with confidence in huge numbers, Hawaiian cosmology and culture. sharing the ocean with barracudas and groupers, Others who have visited Papahänaumokuäkea dragon moray eels and blue goatfish, red urchins, have done so by accident. Literally. Shipwrecks green jobfish and many other species. Sea life tell of a time in the 19th century, when whalers reigns at Papahänaumokuäkea, where man is and their harpoons once reigned in Hawaiian merely a part of the food chain. waters, turning them red with the blood of the “In a case of man bites dog, the ulua can bite a magnificent mammals. diver,” said Kosaki, whose studies have taken him “The ships hit the reefs and the survivors were trapped, but some of them rebuilt vessels to get out (FROM TOP) A LAKE ON LAYSAN ISLAND, WITH COLORS CAUSED BY BACTERIA. AN ANCIENT HAWAIIAN HOUSE SITE ON NIHOA of there,” said Kekuewa Kikiloi, a doctoral candi- ISLAND. MALE AND FEMALE NIHOA FINCHES. date in anthropology at the University of Hawai‘i

OAHKA_120600_Papa.indd 48 4/6/12 11:05:38 AM Hoku’s Plumeria beach house Our signature restaurant features contemporary island cuisine For breakfast, lunch and dinner, enjoy casual beachfront dining for dinner and Sunday brunch. on the white sands of Kahala.

sunday brunch the veranda A delicious selection of dishes are served at Hoku’s and Plumeria Beach House. The perfect spot for afternoon tea, pupus, cocktails and nightly entertainment.

experience Legendary dining

Call restaurant reservations at 739.8888 or, from your room, press Restaurant Reservations www.kahalaresort.com Today, the remains of wreckages are fish habitats.

at Mänoa. “Until my visits, I didn’t realize how big Education also enriches. A glimpse of the Hawai‘i really is.” monument’s underwater world may be seen in an Today, the shipwreck remains are fish habitats, exhibit at the Waikiki Aquarium on O‘ahu and a part of underwater life. at the Mokupäpapa Discovery Center on Hawai‘i Ad Other human imprints are historic, such as island. Websites, books and documentaries add those on Midway Island, where a critical naval to the splendid story of Papahänaumokuäkea, as battle was fought during World War II, on the in the video, “Family of the Wa‘a.” The video seas between Japan and the United States. “Peo- powerfully chronicles the canoe journey of Kimo- ple and dogs on Midway meant some destruction keo Kapahulehua and his team members as they of life there,” observed Collins. “You can inadver- paddled from Hawai‘i to Kure Atoll, the northern- tently bring in alien forms of life on your boots.” most point of the monument. Threats to the area include climate change “In the way of my ancestors, we connected and the consequences of negligent human activ- to nature’s elements—the sun, birds, stars, fish, ity, such as marine debris. Plastics, for example. winds, clouds,” said Kapahulehua, who grew up About 57 tons of derelict items each year, such with canoes and considers them part of his family. as fishing gear and nets, added Collins, arrive “Before Nihoa, hundreds of dolphins greeted us. unwanted in these waters. There is also the At Nihoa we saw a brown carpet of monk seals wreckage from natural disasters, such as the 2011 moving around. The birds, so many birds, you Japanese tsunami. Experts predict that debris can smell the birds. We did not disturb. We did from the tsunami will reach the NWHI months not touch. We left it all alone.” before it reaches the main Hawaiian Islands. Let it be. Let it thrive. That seems to be the Education is a key to keeping Papahänau- common wish of people who have learned from, mokuäkea as primordial as possible. Consider its and felt humbled by, the ancient majesty of Pap- marvelous reefs. “We used to have reefs like that,” ahänaumokuäkea, a place that continues to chant said Kosaki. “Our own reefs are gone or damaged. through the ages. We need to bring them back.” For more on the canoe voyage: www.familyofthewaa.com.

THE PROPELLER WRECK OF THE LIBERTY SHIP SS QUARTETTE, AT THE PEARL AND HERMES ATOLL, ATTRACTS A DIVER’S INTEREST.

OAHKA_120600_Papa.indd 50 4/6/12 11:05:41 AM – HAWAI‘ I ’ S BEST LU‘ AU

Create memories for a lifetime from the moment you arrive at Paradise Cove. Enjoy a unique island experience of culture and tradition, fun and excitement! And as the sun melts into the sea, enjoy a delicious Hawaiian feast. Then sit back, and be entertained as our Polynesian dancers perform as if just for you! Let us change the way you view the world, or at least part of it.

For reservations and additional information, please call 808-842-5911. www.paradisecove.com 52

OAHKA_120600_Japanese_8.indd 52 4/6/12 10:08:02 AM Kahala June 2012 Indulgences: p.19 hed: Through the Eyes of the Keiki sub: They can have it all, too By Simplicio Paragas

THE KAHALA 53

OAHKA_120600_Japanese_8.indd 53 4/6/12 10:08:14 AM Kahala, June 2012, Impressions: p. 23 hed: The Wild Pleasure of it all sub: The princess rides a wave By John R. K. Clark

OAHKA_120600_Japanese_8.indd 54 4/6/12 10:08:22 AM Kahala June 2012 Explorations: p. 27 hed: Planting the Past and Seeding the Future sub: Hawai‘i’s green heroes By Christine Thomas

THE KAHALA 55

OAHKA_120600_Japanese_8.indd 55 4/6/12 10:08:35 AM 56

OAHKA_120600_Japanese_8.indd 56 4/6/12 11:50:37 AM THE KAHALA 57

OAHKA_120600_Japanese_8.indd 57 4/6/12 10:08:53 AM Kahala, June 2012, p. 44 hed: Sacred Connections to a Distant Past sub: A glimpse into the world’s most remote archipelago By Thelma Chang

OAHKA_120600_Japanese_8.indd 58 4/6/12 10:09:24 AM THE KAHALA 59

OAHKA_120600_Japanese_8.indd 59 4/6/12 10:09:27 AM Ad

OAHKA_120600_Japanese_8.indd 60 4/6/12 10:09:38 AM

（左上から時計回りに）ドルフィンラグーンの水面で繰り広げられる光のショー。タートルプールで孔雀色に舞い踊るソロダンサー。カハラの半島から昇る朝陽に敬礼。ホテルを濡れた背中に映しながら、ラグーンで戯れるイルカ。カハラの前庭と呼べる海で、朝陽は黄金に輝く。タートルラグーンの優雅なプリマバレリーナ。

OAHKA_120600_Japanese_8.indd 62 4/6/12 10:10:40 AM

Memory Book

The Room at the Top Superstar George Clooney, who played wealthy landowner Matt King in “The Descendants,” was a guest at The Kahala during the filming, which took place in spring 2010. With Hawai‘i actor Patricia Hastie, who played his wife, he’s shown here on the länai of one of The Kahala’s guest rooms. The photo was used as a prop in the film, giving The Kahala and its sun-kissed beach a cameo appearance. “The Descendants” won an Oscar for Best Adapted Screenplay, by director Alexander Payne, Nat Faxon and Jim Rash, and was based on the novel by Hawai‘i author Kaui Hart Hemmings. Besides its five Oscar nominations, the film received the Golden Globe Award for Best Motion Picture, while Clooney won a Golden Globe for Best Actor in a Drama. With his modest, engaging manner, Clooney won the hearts of The Kahala’s staff.

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