■ INSIDE ■ BOOKS Letters 2 & Crime Watch 4 Comfort Confi dence Retail Report 5 Within two blocks of Fillmore, two stars Food & Drink 7 Home Sales 14 of the food world launch new cookbooks Body & Soul 15 PAGES 10 & 11 THE NEW FILLMORE
SANSAN FRANCISCO FRANCISCO ■ ■DECEMBER APRIL 2010 2012
A Change of View Ambassador From Pacifi c Heights on Duty in Hungary
By Markos Kounalakis
BUDAPEST, Hungary — Many of my Saturdays used to start out with a saunter down Fillmore Street for an early morning cup of coff ee while the rest of my family was still in bed. Budapest is also a coff eehouse city, but more famed for the conversations and art that grew out of that culture than the cof- fee in the cups. It has been three years since we left the neighborhood and moved to a country that only a generation ago was behind the Iron Curtain. As I look outside my offi ce here, I see the Statue of Liberty — not the one in New York harbor, but the one atop Gel- lert Hill in Budapest, erected by the Soviets after World War II. From her offi ce win- dow, my wife looks toward a Soviet monument in the middle of Szabad- sag ter — Freedom Square — a golden star topping the prominent stone memorial. From our apart- ment in Pacifi c Heights, we looked out on the bay, the sailboats and the container ships The Kounalakises in crossing under their apartment on the Golden Gate Steiner Street. Bridge. President Obama marveled at the view during the couple of times he visited our home before assuming offi ce. He later appointed my wife Eleni Tsakopoulos-Kounalakis as the U.S. Ambassador to the Republic of Hun- gary — a complex and demanding job that brought our family to beautiful Budapest. Early on in our tenure here, we went through a Hungarian national election and a change in government, a revised consti- tution and a six-month European Union presidency. We’ve had many offi cial visitors One-of-a-kind dolls in a one-of-a-kind shop from President Obama’s Cabinet, topped by two memorable working visits: one from Photograph by For more than three decades, Narumi on Fillmore has offered a unique selection Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, the other CARINA WOUDENBERG of Japanese antiques, including porcelain and pottery, kimonos, tansu and tea from our own congresswoman, former ceremony utensils — but it specializes in restoring and selling-one-of-a-kind dolls. Speaker of the House of Representatives STORY & MORE PHOTOGRAPHS | PAGE 6 and now minority leader Nancy Pelosi. TO PAGE 3 X LETTERS LOCALS ABROAD In Hungary, an Ambassador from Pacifi c Heights X FROM PAGE ONE demanding, at every turn I am reminded High-level working visits are a nor- that San Francisco is far away, and mal part of embassy life and during last we still have moments of longing for year’s opening of the Lantos Institute, home. Congressman Tom Lantos’s extended Our kids’ names are on the chil- family all came to celebrate in Hun- dren’s playground tiles at Alta Plaza gary. Th e Lantos Institute inauguration Park; Calvary Presbyterian Church coincided with the unveiling by the is where their scout troops meet; and Hungarian government of a large statue fi lm director Christopher Columbus’s of former President Ronald Reagan. house on Jackson Street is a place they Reagan is looked on with great approached with trepidation during admiration by the Central Europeans their Halloween trick-or-treating. for his role in confronting the Soviet Th e Mayfl ower Market at Fillmore Union. His legacy — along with that and Jackson was a local touchstone for of Pope John Paul II and Mikhail Gor- us. Th ree brothers from Greece run the DANIEL BAHMANI Robert Bell: “I don’t think anyone can know everything about the piano.” bachev — is considered instrumental in market and we would regularly go down ending the Cold War. to the store so our kids could chat in Our upstairs neighbor back in San Greek with our local grocers, who were Francisco, avid Democratic supporter always looking out for our guys as they A Fabricated Flight of Fancy Susie Tompkins Buell, was visit- grew up. ing when the new Reagan statue was I used to ride my Ducati motorcycle to the editors: such by the school I graduated from — unveiled — an event also attended by all year in San Francisco, a great way to hank you for your recent not by me — and is a degree require- those on the other end of the political get around town without ever worrying article about the Piano Care ment, not an entrance exam. If the exam spectrum, including former Secretary of about parking. I had it shipped over to Co. [“A Portal to Another is so diffi cult, how can it be that I don’t T State Condoleezza Rice, former Attor- Hungary, but now it stays in a garage Time,” November.] Unfortunately, your know how to play? When asked, my Secretary of State Hillary Clinton with Markos and Eleni Tsakopoulos-Kounalakis. ney General Ed Meese and former about half the year, since the winters are reporter’s imagination exceeds her jour- standard response is that I play poorly, Cailfornia Governor Pete Wilson. We a lot colder than at home. nalistic skills, and the resulting article like so many other piano technicians. An kept a close eye on our neighbor, but everyone peacefully Everywhere there are signs of the communist past, Th e neighborhood around upper Fillmore Street is a is strongest in upholding the tradition overactive imagination is also evidenced broke bread together in the ornate halls of the Parliament from the massive apartment blocks to the unexploded glorious and privileged one. We have been able to live in of factual error, misrepresentation and in the preceding line, which describes building. bomb uncovered in front of the U.S. Embassy left over Pacifi c Heights because of the opportunities America and fabrication that is a common feature of me as a “rock star.” While I did play in a I was regularly in Hungary from 1989 to 1991 cover- from World War II. Sometimes we fi nd ourselves in California made possible for me and my immigrant fam- writing when the goal is to romanticize band in the late 1970s, I never achieved ing the fall of communism in the region for Newsweek Monument Park, where only Stalin’s boots remain on a ily. Th is type of social mobility and educational opportu- the arts, artists or artisans. “star” status — whatever that is — much magazine, then moved to the Soviet Union in 1991 and pedestal that once held a mighty statue. Even the types nity is available in few places in the world and nowhere While I could fi ll up the page with a less local notoriety. stayed there for a year. I quickly learned to join any queue of movies we watch are not likely to be found at the Clay more than in our country. You see this to a greater degree long list of examples, I simply point out 2. I have never said and never will say, I spotted. In a place where goods were scarce, a queue Th eater. Our kids watch training fi lms produced by the when you live overseas. that the article begins with a fabricated “I know everything about the piano.” was usually a good sign there was something to be had Hungarian secret police in the 1960s — black and white During our tour of service in Europe, we have exper– fl ight of fancy (our front door is neither Th e piano is a far too complex set of at the front of it. Unfortunately, the habit has not died; I footage teaching citizens and agents how to spy on each ienced a change of views, but we have not lost sight of “hand carved” nor “antique”) and ends changing relationships and a fi eld that still fi nd myself slowing down to jump into any queue in other. our love for our friends and neighbors and our life back with a misattributed quote (my wife, not off ers an opportunity for lifelong — Hungary, no matter how long. While our time here is fascinating and the work home. my daughter, is the source of “dancing and I emphasize lifelong — learning. on the music”). Th e majority of what I don’t think anyone can know every- is placed between these bookends is of thing about the piano, and there are similar quality and nature, being either many whose knowledge exceeds mine Come Join Our Advent Celebrations! erroneous, imaginatively created or a greatly. St. Dominic’s Catholic Church confusion of the few facts you do get I repeat, I understand it is a com- Sunday, December 2 right. mon feature of this type of writing to Advent Lessons & Carols, t. Dominic’s warmly invites you to celebrate the Advent 7:30 pm, Church Nave Th e article didn’t even manage to get be excessively creative, and was quite my relatively simple name correct. It is willing to let most of that stuff slide. & Christmas Seasons in our beautiful church... Solemnity of the Immaculate Conception (A Holy Day of Obligation) Saturday, December 8, Masses: Bell, not Del. See what I mean? But to have those arrogant and absurd Weekday Masses: 8:00 am, 9:30 am 3 Vigil Mass on Friday, December 7, 5:30 pm, 7:30 pm While the accompanying photo- words put into my mouth is distasteful, 6:30 & 8:00 am; 5:30 pm graphs are fl attering, and I thank you off ensive and a complete misrepresenta- Morning Prayer: 7:15 am (weekdays); 8:00 am (Saturday) Our Lady of Guadalupe Celebrations, Sunday, December 9 for that, I was genuinely shocked to tion of myself and my attitude about my Evening Prayer: 5:00 pm (daily) 1:30 pm Mass (en español), Church Nave; Reception follows in the Parish Hall see a picture of myself over a supposed work. Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament: Thursday, December 13 “quote” that is a total fabrication, namely I have no desire to appear ungrate- Mondays & Wednesdays: 8:30 am & 6:00 pm s First Fridays: 9:00 pm (Sign-up required) Parish Advent Party & Caroling, that “I know everything about the piano ful and truly appreciate your eff orts to 6:00 pm, Parish Hall Sunday Masses: except how to play.” Allow me to deal give us more exposure, but I would also Family Christmas Pageant, Sunday, December 16, with the two parts of this absurd cre- appreciate whatever you can do in terms Saturday evening: 5:30 pm (Vigil), 7:30 am (Quiet), 9:30 am (Family), 11:30 am (Solemn) 3:30 pm, Church Nave 1:30 pm (St. Jude Pilgrim Mass in Spanish), 5:30 pm (Contemporary music) ation in reverse order. of retractions, corrections and apologies. 9:00 pm (Taizé music by candlelight) Annual Christmas Concert, Monday, December 17, 7:30 pm 1. Th e last sentence of the paragraph One of the major assets in any business Church Nave, St. Dominic’s Solemn Mass Choir with strings & harp that begins with this fabrication is “To is reputation, and I have no desire to Tuesday, December 18 7:30 pm get into the school, he’d had to pass a be known as the idiot who thinks he Advent Twilight Retreat, , Lady Chapel (Preparation for Confession) diffi cult set of tests he calls “the piano “know(s) everything about the piano.” barrier.” Th e piano barrier is labeled as Robert Bell Confessions, Wednesday, December 19 12:00 Noon – 1:00 pm & 7:30 – 9:00 pm, Church Nave
Come Join Our Christmas 2012 Celebrations!
Christmas Eve, Monday, December 24 Advent Masses: 6:30 am & 8:00 am THE NEW FILLMORE Christmas Eve Vigil Masses: newfi llmore.com 4:00 pm (Mass for Families with Toddlers) 6:00 pm (Mass for Families with Children) 11:15 pm Carol service followed by Solemn Mass at Midnight 2130 Fillmore Street #202 ■ San Francisco, CA 94115 ■ 415.441.6070 No confessions today editors@newfi llmore.com Christmas Day, Tuesday, December 25 Editors | Barbara Kate Repa & Thomas R. Reynolds Masses at 7:30 am (Quiet Mass with Carols), Production | Ginny Lindsay Proofreader | Donna Gillespie 9:30 am (Parish Mass with Carols), Marketing Manager | Alison Short 11:30 am (Solemn Mass with Choral Music), 1:30 pm (en español) No confessions today and no Masses at 5:30 pm or 9:00 pm START AT 2:00-6:00 PM KIEHL’S Advertising inquiries ads@newfi llmore.com or 415.441.6070 Published on the fi rst weekend of each month. Deadline: 20th of prior month Solemnity of the Holy Family of Jesus, Mary & Joseph Sunday, December 30 Subscriptions by mail are available for $30 per year. Please send a check. Masses at 7:30 am, 9:30 am, 11:30 am, 1:30 pm, 5:30 pm & 9:00 pm Vigil Masses on Saturday, December 29, 5:30 pm Connecting the neighborhood Solemnity of Mary the Holy Mother of God Every month, 20,000 copies of the New Fillmore are delivered to homes and Tuesday, January 1, 2013 businesses in the Fillmore, Pacifi c Heights and Japantown. We thank you for (A Holy Day of Obligation) Masses at 9:30 am & 5:30 pm your support and encouragement and welcome your ideas and suggestions. Vigil Mass on Monday, December 31, 5:30 pm
newfi llmore.com | updates, videos and an archive of back issues 2390 Bush St. (at Steiner) t Free Parking t (415) 567-7824 www.stdominics.org
2 NEW FILLMORE December 2012 December 2012 NEW FILLMORE 3 ii«ÊÞÕÀÊÛÃÌÀà CRIME WATCH RETAIL REPORT Handel’s MEMESSIAH ÊÌ iÊi} LÀ ` Prana Brings Yogawear, More in Grace Cathedral Methamphetamine, Probation Violation Petty Th eft Thursday December 20 2012 7:30 pm Fillmore and Clay Streets Webster Street and Geary Boulevard Born in a Southern California garage, now on Fillmore Friday December 21 2012 7:30 pm October 29, 3 a.m. November 5, 4:30 p.m. JeffrJJeffJeJffeeffreffffrff eyeyyT T homahomhohoomaommaass- - ArtArtiAArAtAtiAirtrtitissticststittictiicic DirDDiirecectoectcctocttttooror Offi cers on patrol spotted a man cross- A security guard at Safeway saw a man hose familiar with the Prana label duced to climbing and yoga, the couple Saturday December 22 2012 7:30 pm ing the street outside the crosswalk and putting packages of meat in his backpack Grace Cathedral, California & Taylor Streets probably associate it with the envi- was inspired to create a line of clothing and SAN FRANCISCO stopped to advise him of the violation. Th e along with several candy bars, deodorant Tronmentally conscious yoga apparel accessories for yogis and climbers looking man was on probation, so the offi cers con- and rolls of toilet paper. Th en he walked found in many sporting goods stores. for functional, comfortable activewear with Presented in the breathtaking setting of ducted a search. After they found a baggie out of the store. Th e security guard fol- But during the last 15 years, the company an eye toward sustainability. San Francisco’s landmark Grace Cathedral, containing methamphetamine in one of his lowed the suspect, detained him and called has expanded so Fillmore ABS’s performances of Handel’s enduring pockets, he was placed under arrest. the police. Th e stolen items were valued at that Prana is resident Chuck masterwork are celebrated as one of Northern Michael W. Perry $89.44. Th e man was cited, given a court no longer just Smith was the California’s most treasured holiday traditions. & Company Driving Under the Infl uence date and released. for the pretzel- store’s fi rst Fillmore and Post Streets minded — and customer. He Order online for advance purchase instant discount. Tickets start at $20. Fine Custom Framing November 2, 2:30 a.m. Petty Th eft its new store at reports: Antique Prints & Maps ÓÓΣÊ*iÊ-ÌÀiiÌÊÊ Two offi cers observed a car stopped in Eddy and Laguna Streets 1928 Fillmore As a yoga stu- iÌÜiiÊ7iLÃÌiÀÉÀi the middle of the intersection. Offi cers November 9, 8:30 p.m. Street off ers dent, my inter- americanbach.org (415) 621-7900 1837 Divisadero • 415-563-8853 {£x°Î{È°££ÊUÊÜÜÜ°>ÀÌÃÌðV smelled a strong odor of alcohol on the A woman was riding a Muni bus when prime evidence est was piqued www.mwperry.com driver’s breath and observed that his eye- her iPhone was snatched out of her hand. of that. as soon as I saw lids drooped. Th en they saw three open An off -duty offi cer on his way home heard Th ere’s a the signs go up a beer cans on the back seat. Th ey asked the the description of the suspect on his police small section on few months ago driver to exit the vehicle. He responded, radio. Soon afterward, the offi cer saw a the upper level touting the new “When I’m done with you, you’ll be work- man matching the description walking dedicated to arrival. And as ing in Alaska.” Th e offi cers continued their with four other individuals. Th e off -duty yoga pants, tops, Prana's new store is located at 1928 Fillmore. I walked by on investigation, conducting a fi eld sobriety offi cer called for assistance. Responding mats, towels and the morning test. When the driver failed, he was placed offi cers stopped the individuals, and one totes — and the ubiquitous-again head- of November 7, the windows were fi nally under arrest. A computer check revealed he man dropped the backpack he was carry- bands. But the rest of the shop is stocked unpapered, revealing a store fi lled with #!,)&/2.)! 3(%,, was on probation for a past arrest involving ing. During their investigation, the offi cers chockful of cozy clothing perfect for San much more than yoga clothes and mats. As !54/ 3%26)#% 2%0!)2 driving under the infl uence. Th ere was also located an iPhone in the backpack. Th ey Francisco winters and summers: cords and I pulled on the door, a gentleman said, “11 a court order mandating that his vehicle were unable to unlock the phone and the jeans, sweater dresses, coats and jackets, a.m.” I had breakfast, then headed back. À>iÃÊEÊ/Àià have an ignition interlock device, and he suspect said he did not know the pass code. knit hats, scarves and sweaters fashioned Prana is one of those inviting stores iVÊ }iÊ} Ìà was driving with a suspended license. He He claimed that he had found the phone. from washable wool. where you just want to hang out. So I did. «ÕÌiÀÊ >}ÃÌVà was booked at county jail. Th e suspect, who was 15 years old, was “Prana makes interesting clothing — Megan, a friendly sales associate, helped >VÌÀÞÊ-V i`Õi`Ê >Ìi>Vi listed in the system as a runaway. He was and does it as sustainably as possible, using me, explaining with great knowledge the £x]ÊÎä]Ê{x]ÊÈäÊEÊäÊ-iÀÛVià Possession of Fraudulent Checks booked at the Youth Guidance Center. fair trade factories,” according to store details of each piece I tried. }Ê-ÞÃÌiÊEÊ/À>ÃÃÃÊ*ÀLià Resisting Arrest manager Kai Shane, who says the company As I checked out, Kai, Megan and -}Ê/iÃÌÃÊEÊ,i«>ÀÃÊvÀÊ>ÕÀi Van Ness Avenue and California Street Possession of Switchblade chose Fillmore for its sixth store after being another employee gathered around and >ÌÌiÀiÃÊEÊ-Ì>ÀÌ}Ê*ÀLià November 2, 12:20 p.m. and Narcotics Paraphernalia beckoned by the “community and human told me I was their very fi rst customer. Very ÀÊ,i«>ÀÃÊvÊ>Ê/Þ«ià 1,"* ÊUÊ* - ÊUÊ , A bank called police concerning a man Van Ness Avenue and Hemlock Street feeling” of the street. cool. After a commemorative photo, I was attempting to pass a forged check. When November 13, 1 a.m. Th e company was born in 1992 in on my way. >ÃÌ]ÊÀi`ÞÊEÊÕ>À>Ìii` offi cers arrived, bank employees advised Plainclothes offi cers came upon a fi ght Carlsbad, California, in the garage of Pam But I’ll be back. Besides, my yogi wife Óxä£Ê >vÀ>Ê>ÌÊ-ÌiiÀÊÊÊUÊÊÊ{£x®ÊxÈÇÈx£Ó them the suspect had run into the rest- between a man and a woman. Th e male and Beaver Th eodosakis. After being intro- hasn’t seen it yet. `>ÞÊÌ ÀÕ} ÊÀ`>ÞÊÊnÊ>°°ÊÌÊÈÊ«°° room. When the offi cers opened the rest- suspect approached the offi cers in their room door, the suspect ran out, pushing unmarked car and shouted profanities at past them. After a struggle, the offi cers them. Th e man told the offi cers he had a subdued him. Investigating, offi cers learned switchblade in his pants pocket. When the suspect had opened two separate bank the offi cer seized the knife from the man’s Cruise Into Roberta Freymann and Set Sail for Your Holiday Escape! accounts using false names. He was booked pocket, he felt what he believed to be a on 10 felony charges. meth pipe, and he took this as evidence. Th e man had no identifi cation, so the offi - Possession of Stolen Property cers transported him to Northern Station Resisting Arrest for further investigation. Franklin and Elm Streets November 3, 9 p.m. Parole Violation Offi cers received a call concerning a Laguna and Eddy Streets Roberta Freymann San Francisco: 2055 Fillmore Street, San Francisco, CA s 415.563.8595 man who was peering inside vehicles, and November 15, 3:30 p.m. set up surveillance. While they watched, A man who saw an individual harass- a man shattered the window of a parked ing people at a bus stop fl agged down the car, then reached inside and pulled out a police. Th e offi cers approached the suspect, backpack. Th e suspect walked away from who appeared to be intoxicated. A com- the vehicle, carrying the backpack over puter check revealed he was on parole. Th e his shoulder. When the offi cers pursued parole agent informed them that the sus- him, the suspect ran. Gradually the offi cers pect has a “no drinking” clause as part of his caught up to him; one offi cer injured his release condition. Th e parole agent advised hand while taking him into custody. Th e the offi cers to revoke his parole. Th e offi cers suspect was 16 years old. then placed the suspect under arrest.
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4 NEW FILLMORE December 2012 December 2012 NEW FILLMORE 5 ■ TREASURES FOOD & DRINK
By Patricia Unterman Th en have a little plate of Adana kebabs ($10), very soft, juicy, minced lamb with s an immersive traveler, I adopt a perky fennel salad and yogurt sauce. A the diet of everyplace I go. When bigger plate of marinated lamb kebabs A I get back to San Francisco I ($17) are equally juicy, skewered with fi re- actually feel homesick for the food, the air, blacked onions and zucchini, accompanied the pace, of the places I visit. Th is happened with smoky eggplant puree. A huge when I recently returned from villages and terracotta casserole of moussaka ($17) can provincial cities in southeastern Turkey be shared. It’s a dreamy dish with layers of along the Syrian border. I just wanted to aromatically seasoned minced lamb, satiny eat Turkish. eggplant and creamy bechamel. So I walked over to Troya on Fillmore, I end every meal with baklava, so crisp, the new branch of a spare, stylish light, nutty and buttery, some of the best I’ve restaurant that identifi es itself as Turkish- ever tasted anywhere. Even if you think you Mediterranean. I adjusted my hopes, don’t like baklava, try it here. Guess who knowing that I was not going to fi nd the makes it — the Turkish woman. Troya’s
same kind of rustic Turkish cooking I had DANIEL BAHMANI kunefe, layers of buttery shredded fi lo and fallen so hard for. But what I ate at Troya At Troya, the Turkish woman in a head scarf has a delicate hand with pastries and dough. melted white cheese baked in the oven to delighted me. Th e hospitable spirit felt the order and sweetened at the end with sugar same and the kitchen embraced vegetables, syrup, is a restrained and excellent version spices, yogurt and lamb. California-style — if you haven’t been spoiled by the one I leafy green salads that I never saw in A Taste of Turkey had in the market in Antakya. Western and Turkey were on the menu, of course, and eastern palates equally will like a strong some fusiony items like dolmas stuff ed Th e authentic fl avors of Troya on Fillmore coff ee-fl avored chocolate custard served Narumi offers with pre-braised lamb. in a mini-mason jar topped with labneh, a antique Japanese When I caught a glimpse of a little paved with a succulent topping of minced chef, Philip Busacco, a six-year veteran dollop of thick yogurt. treasures, Turkish woman in a head scarf and apron beef, roasted peppers, onions, garlic and of Terzo, can also constitute a meal. Drink moderately priced Turkish wine. including meticulously in the partially open kitchen at the back, Turkish chile. Another fl atbread, folded Start with Turkish red lentil soup ($6), a Finish with mint tea in glasses. And count crafted dolls. who looked like the women who cooked over a velvety fi lling of smoky roasted delicious puree enlivened with a drizzle of yourself lucky that you can get an authentic for me in their homes in small villages eggplant and fresh white cheese, is also a olive oil and mint and a squeeze of lemon. taste of this lush cuisine right here in the near Antakya and Gazientep, bingo. Th e must order. (Busacco uses fresh mint; it’s better with neighborhood. accommodating Turkish wait staff at Troya As a dumpling lover, I can’t resist manti, dried mint and Maras pepper heated in Troya, at 2125 Fillmore (between told me all the things she prepared and I small meat-stuff ed dumplings, a dish sizzling butter). Order dill-scented Persian Sacramento and California), is open daily started right there. constantly served in eastern Turkey and cucumber salad ($7); tender zucchini for lunch and dinner. Call 563-1000 or It turns out that this woman has a throughout Central Asia. Troya’s thumb- fritters with minted yogurt ($8); and warm visit troyasf.com for more information. In a Tiny Shop, a Shrine to Japanese Culture, History delicate hand with pastries and dough nail sized manti ($17), made of toothsome, green beans in an aromatic sweet and sour as evidenced by her Anatolian fl atbreads hand-rolled dough plump with onion- sauce with raisins and a bowl of yogurt on Neighborhood resident Patricia Unterman has Story & Photographs by Carina Woudenberg In addition, Nakamura also cleans and makes any nec- “I’ve been to Asia many times, but never got the chance ($11). Troya’s lahmacun, the ubiquitous scented minced beef fi lling, come swathed the side ($8). Always include a big plate of been a restaurant critic, chef and food writer in essary repairs on the dolls he sells and — when he’s not in to involve myself in the tea ceremonies,” he says. Turkish-style pizza, was one of the best in warm yogurt drizzled with spice-sizzled roasted caulifl ower ($8) fragrantly coated San Francisco for more than 30 years. Subscribe e’s been a San Francisco resident for more than the shop — leads classes in the traditional Japanese tea cer- As a former member of the military, Cowan says I’ve tasted, a small, thin round of tender, butter — Turkish genius. with charred spices, dark Urfa chile fl akes to her newsletter at untermanonfood.com. 30 years, but Jiro Nakamura still makes a yearly emony from his home a he appreciates the structure as well as the beauty in the almost puff pastry-light dough evenly Vibrant meze from Troya’s western and scallions. Htrek home to Japan to search for treasures for his few blocks away. event. shop on Fillmore Street. Th ree nights a week a “Like military marching, there’s a right way to do it,” Th e treasures include dolls — crafted hundreds of years small group of students Cowan says. “When the teacher shows the right way to earlier in many cases — and puppets, tea ceremony gear take part in an elaborate do it — oh, that is so cool. And when you get the right and kimonos fi t for all occasions. Th ey are off ered at Nar- three-hour lesson in Matcha tea, your senses really prick up.” umi, a tiny shop at 1902 Fillmore that Nakamura named how to prepare both the Nakamura gets the tea, and the sweets served with it, for a bakery his parents started in Japan. thick and thin Matcha from Japan. He says he prefers antique Japanese dolls because they tea traditionally used in Sugimoto also looks forward to the one or two nights contain far more detail, especially in the hands and faces. the ceremony. he spends at Nakamura’s tea ceremonies each week. Hav- “In old times, they had more time to make each piece,” Students also learn ing studied with Nakamura for four years, he often helps Nakamura says. how to make fl ower assist the newer students, yet he says he still learns from Shortly after settling into the city decades ago, Naka- arrangements, to put the process himself. mura, now 61, studied fi ne art at San Francisco’s Academy the required utensils Sugimoto and Cowan say their teacher’s home resembles of Art. together properly and his store, with Japanese antiques sprinkled throughout. Previously home to a furniture store and a record shop, to perform all the cere- It can be hard to part with some of the great things he the space on Fillmore was transformed when Nakamura monial rituals. fi nds, Nakamura admits, especially since Japan is running Jiro Nakamura, owner of took it over in 1981 and gave it his own fl air. He painted Narumi at 1902 Fillmore, also Jay Cowan and out of its greatest gems. the portrait of the elegant Japanese woman who stands in leads classes in the traditional Kotaro Sugimoto, own- “So much went all over the world,” Nakamura says. the front entrance. He sews the decorative obi fabric con- Japanese tea ceremony. ers of Kohshi, a shop Th e same is true in the neighborhood, Nakamura says. structions used as wall art and in some of his displays. And specializing in aro- He has watched as Japanese-owned businesses have disap- he makes the stained glass creations that playfully refl ect matherapy and essential oils in Japantown, are both Naka- peared from the neighborhood over the years as their own- the light in the shop’s front window. mura’s students. ers retire. Where there was once a fi sh market, a bakery, a “I wanted to put something I made in my store,” he Cowan says it was curiosity and appreciation for the butcher shop and a sushi to-go restaurant, among others, says. culture that brought him to the tea ceremony classes. now it’s just him and his antiques.
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99 Bottles of Beer on the Wall
At least — plus wine and liquor At Ales Unlimited, at a re-envisioned corner store 80 percent of the inventory les unlimited, the tiny neighborhood shop on is devoted to limited the corner of Webster and Jackson, stocks more production A than 900 beers and ales on its shelves and in its domestic and coolers. And owners Steve and Betty Smith don’t cater foreign beers. to the couch potato crowd or the party-throwers who PHOTOGRAPHS BY buy six-packs of a mass-manufactured bland brand for ERIK ANDERSON backyard bacchanalia. Th e couple would much rather sell a single 12-ounce bottle of Rigor Mortis ABT, inspired by beer made by Bel- Door gin made from wild juniper berries, coriander and When the Smiths bought the space three years ago, thought of catering to a well-traveled clientele but was beers rather than canned, frozen, packaged foods. Th en the Dave Mickle, a recent visitor to the shop. His palate these gian Trappist monks and brewed only once a year. Steve fennel, priced at $39.95. At 94 proof, garnished with a poi- Steve says it was in a shabby state, a “visual thorn in every- wary. “When we lived in Europe, corner markets were light bulb — make it a klieg light — went on. days is quite discriminating and he said the best ale in the will recommend that you slowly savor, not quaff , this barely soned olive, a chilled martini could fi nd its way into the one’s side in the neighborhood.” And back then, the new always going down the drain,” he says. And having Mollie “We realized then it was all or nothing and focused on store for the money is Grimbergen Double Ale, brewed in bitter beer that is intensely malty with a complex sweet- next James Bond script as the perfect fi nal cocktail for his entrepreneurs had no real retailing experience. Stone’s, Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s not far away wasn’t nothing but specialty brands — and only the rarest of the Belgium and sold here for $2.99. ness of chocolate, caramel, red fruit and spice. Th e cost is next archenemy’s last supper. “We had lived in Dublin for 12 years where I was set- exactly comforting. rare ales, beers, wines and liquors,” he says. Th e only foods For those thirsty for a stout, Old Rasputin Russian $6.95 for a beer scoring 99 percent from ratebeer.com. His ■ ting up call centers for Gateway Computers,” he says. ■ that survived the cut were items that could be speared on a Imperial Stout brewed by North Coast Brewery in Fort counsel is on the house. “A customer walks in here and wants something unique, “Th en I was importing wheels and suspension systems “But when you have a great neighborhood, you listen to toothpick or fl oated in a cocktail. Bragg is $2.49. Or for something hoppy and malty, try St. Ales Unlimited is more than a Never Never Land for rare or very diffi cult to fi nd,” Steve Smith says. from Europe to the U.S. for Mercedes, Audi and BMW your neighbors and they had been so neglected for so long, Th e Smiths transformed 2398 Webster into an ale Feuillien Triple at $299 for a nine liter bottle. But check passionate lovers of rare ales and craft beers. While 80 Th at pretty much describes the stock of the shop itself. and building and modifying show cars.” we decided to keep it as a grocery store and upgrade the emporium, with its 15-foot ceiling, two new gleaming fi rst to make sure it’s on the shelf; another customer drives percent of the inventory is devoted to limited production But only recently has it had any personality. From what He adds: “One day we asked ourselves what we could quality of everything,” Smith says. Striking up conversa- chrome and glass coolers and handsome wooden shelves. in regularly from Sacramento to stock up. domestic and foreign brews, much of the store is fi lled with Smith has unearthed from city records, the 900-square- do that was diff erent, and started looking around to buy a tions with customers, the Smiths asked for suggestions of Th e store is festooned with discreet neon signs for diff er- Christine Gardner, who walked in purposefully one unusual wines you won’t fi nd in most other liquor stores. foot retail space was built in 1900 as part of a structure little store.” what they would like to see on the shelves. ent ales that would make any collector salivate. Aisles are recent afternoon, raves about the wine selection. “Th is is And some of the stock is the more popular premium spir- that includes a Victorian home and four fl ats. All are still Originally, Betty Smith thought the Webster and “I can tell you they weren’t asking for Budweiser,” he narrow but easily navigated. And Steve and Betty are on the only place in town where I’ve found a wine I really love its and one-of-a-kind American bourbons, ryes, gins and standing; the Smiths live in one of the fl ats. Jackson location would make a good neighborhood cof- says. “Th ey wanted Belgian beers and, of course, German the job seven days a week, skillfully answering questions to drink,” she says. Her discovery? Th e Stuhlmuller Vine- Scotch whiskies in unique sizes. Example: Th e alehouse He contends the space is the oldest existing corner store fee shop, but Steve disagreed. “Why would we want to beers — maybe because the German Consulate is just up on ale and food and wine pairings and pointing out which yards estate chardonnay from Alexander Valley, $22.95. sells a half-pint and a “tenth” — 375 ml — of Grey Goose in the area and says it opened as the Pacifi c Heights Mar- go up against Starbucks and all the other coff ee shops the street.” whiskies would make a velvety smooth Manhattan. Too bad the Smiths can’t squeeze in a couple of stools vodka for someone who might want a short shot before ket around 1920. A sepia-tinted photo displayed inside the down on Fillmore?” he asked. Another idea was rejuve- Globetrotting neighbors would come home and ask the ■ and section off a mini tasting area. As it happens, they the cocktail hour. front door shows two stout women standing in front of nating and upgrading the grocery store, stocking it with grocers if they could fi nd a delightful drink they had in Ales Unlimited’s customers are also good sources for have the same idea. And so do a couple hundred neighbors And here’s something that could take the edge off a canned goods and behind bushel barrels piled high with more imported foods and delicacies that would appeal to Heidelberg or Hawaii. It dawned on them that most of tips on what to quaff . who’ve recently signed a petition lobbying for just that. tough day or make an unforgettable gift: a fi fth of Death’s fruit. the appetites of sophisticated neighbors. Smith liked the the requests were libational, especially small-batch ales and “I started out drinking Coors Light in college,” says Stay tuned. LOVE YOUR SKIN
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