552 NORTHERN CAPE — Introduction modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Introduction — NORTHERN CAPE 553

Northern Cape

The arid Kalahari Desert and the grassy plains and mountains of the Great Karoo dominate the Northern Cape. Every so often, a herd of animals or burst of foliage feeding off the Orange River and its tributaries punctuates the harsh and dry terrain. Though the Northern Cape makes up nearly one-third of South Africa, it remains the country’s most sparsely populated province and is dominated by Afrikaner culture. There are only two large cities within the province and driving between any sizeable town can easily take the better half of a day.

The province’s capital, Kimberley, is best known for its history in the NORTHERN CAPE diamond industry and today boasts the largest manmade excavation in the world, aptly named the Big Hole. However, most visitors who are drawn to the Northern Cape stray far from its cities. It is in the region’s NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN more rural lands where the Cape reveals its rich history of the Khoisan and Afrikaners, country hospitality, unique geology, millions of fossils dating back to the Triassic period, and a handful of beautifully rugged National Parks. 554 NORTHERN CAPE — Highlights C19 C19modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Highlights — NORTHERN CAPE 555 M24 M24 A2 A2 C11 C11 A A C27 C27 C14 C14 N N C hapter H igh l ights A A C15 C15

B1 B1 WW R378 R378 Northern Cape S S MafikengMafikeng Augrabies Falls National Park - Mar- R375 R375 KgalagadiKgalagadi T T R375 R375 vel at the awesome power of the Orange C17 TransfrontierC17 Transfrontier Park Park NAMIBIANAMIBIA C11 C11 R377 R377 River plunging down into a granite gorge C13 C13 C14 C14 O O R375 R375

R380 R380 that rifts the land for kilometers (p. 570) B B R507 R507 LuderitzLuderitzB4 B4 KeetmanshoopKeetmanshoop NORTHNORTH Aus Aus AansluitAansluit R377 R377 R380 R380 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park - Stalk B4 B4 C16 C16 N14 N14 AndriesvaleAndriesvale Van ZylsrusVan Zylsrus WESTWEST predators and the migratory herds that WitdraiWitdrai VryburgVryburg R31 R31 R34 R34 drink from a network of watering holes B1 B1 SonstraalSonstraalR31 R31 N14 N14 as they pass through the Kalahari Desert HotazelHotazel R504 R504 C13 C13 (p. 567) BanknaraBanknara C11 C11 R380 R380 KurumanKuruman R506 R506 DibengDibengN14 N14 R360 R360 Ga SegonyanaGa Segonyana Kimberley - Stare into the depths of KathuKathu N12 N12 C12 C12 N14 N14 R373 R373 the Big Hole - the largest hand-dug exca- OlifantshoekOlifantshoek R371 R371 RictersveldRictersveld KarasburgKarasburg R31 R31 R708 R708 vation on earth - in the diamond mining B3 B3 R370 R370 NationalNational Park Park R325 R325 Mt. RupertMt. Rupert B1 B1 N14 N14 N12 N12 capital of the world (p. 557) N10 N10 Kara HaisKara Hais DelportshoopDelportshoop WindsortonWindsorton B3 B3 UpingtonUpington R375 R375 |Ai|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier R385 R385 BarkleyBarkley West West AugrabiesAugrabies N14 LouisvaleN14 Louisvale R64 R64 R309 R309 Park - Brave the rough and rugged des- NationalNational Park Park R325 R325 OnseepkansOnseepkans AlheitAlheit NellersdrifNellersdrif KimberleyKimberley GriekswastadGriekswastadR64 R64 ert, where succulents shaped like humans R370 R370 R64 R64 N12 N12 N7 N7 BladgrondBladgrond R357 R357 are said to hold the ancestor spirits of the N14 N14 R27 R27 DouglasDouglas N10 N10 RitchieRitchieN8 N8 Nama people (p. 574) PofadderPofadder R383 R383 R313 R313 R357 R357 R705 R705 R382 R382 SteinkopfSteinkopf R383 R383 Port NollothPort Nolloth NiekerkshoopNiekerkshoopR388 R388 N14 N14 KenhardtKenhardt MarydaleMarydale WitputWitput N7 N7 FREEFREE N10 N10 N12 N12 R355 R355 R369 R369 R357 R357 HopetownHopetown SpringbokSpringbok R27 R27 PrieskaPrieska OranjriverOranjriverSTATESTATER704 R704 KomaggasKomaggas OraniaOrania R358 R358 R361 R361 R355 R355 StrydenburgStrydenburg OnderstedoringsOnderstedorings R357 R357

PetrusvillePetrusville NORTHERN CAPE R27 R27 N7 N7 R403 R403N10 N10 R717 R717 Van WyksvleiVan Wyksvlei R357 R357 BrandvleiBrandvlei R386 R386 PhilipstownPhilipstown N1 N1 AlwynsfonteinAlwynsfontein R384 R384 VosburgVosburg BritstownBritstown De AarDe Aar R357 R357 ColesburgColesburg BrandfortBrandfort R358 R358 R384 R384 R355 R355 SakrivierSakrivier R403 R403 N10 N10 LoenesfonteinLoenesfontein CarnarvonCarnarvon N12 N12 R348 R348 N7 N7 R353 R353 HannoverHannover R27 R27 R398 R398 R357 R357 R63 R63 N10 N10 NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN R63 R63 N1 N1 NoupoortNoupoort R355 R355 NieuwoudtvilleNieuwoudtville R63 R63 WillistonWilliston R308 R308 R63 R63VictoriaVictoria RichmondRichmond AA t l t a l a n n t i t c i c R27 R27 R56 R56 N7 N7 CalviniaCalvinia LoxtonLoxton N1 N1 R363 R363 R63 R63 R398 R398 R353 R353 BrandfortBrandfort R364 R364 N10 N10 R356 R356 N12 N12 OO c ec ea a n n N9 N9 N10 N10 N7 N7 R355 R355 R354 R354 FraserburgFraserburg R63 R63 R63 R63 N9 N9 R61 R61 LambertsLamberts Bay BayR364 R364 ClanwilliamClanwilliam R356 R356 N1 N1 CradockCradock Graaff-ReinetGraaff-Reinet N9 N9 R365 N7R365 N7 SutherlandSutherland R61 R61 R337 R337 R353 R353 N1 N1 R354 R354 R303 R303 VelddrifVelddrif R355 R355 WelgernoedWelgernoed N1 N1 PiketburgPiketburg N12 N12 SaldanhaSaldanha N10 N10 R354 R354 R407 R407 EASTERNEASTERN N1 N1 50mi N1 N1 R329 R329 100km DarlingDarling WESTERNWESTERN CAPE CAPE N9 N9 CAPECAPE MaimesburyMaimesbury R336 R336 R341 R341 556 NORTHERN CAPE — History modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Kimberley — NORTHERN CAPE 557

KIMBERLEY writers and the first Secretary-General of the African GPS: S 28 44.518 E 024 46.151 National Congress, Kimberley has more draw in its pop. 170,000 | elevation 1,230 m/4,035 ft history than in its present. But if you look closely, you can still catch a glimpse of glamour from days gone The city of Kimberley was built on diamonds. Initially by and the eerie depths of its mine cavities is an established as the rowdy mining town of New Rush, unforgettable sight. Central Kimberley is somewhat the area teemed with rough and tumble opportunists hard to navigate, with many winding and confusing hoping to strike it big. But the vast diamond wealth one-way streets, no doubt a product of the city’s eventually transformed the haphazard settlement rushed development. Head southeast out of the city into one of South Africa’s major cities. Cecil Rhodes center on Du Toitspan Road and you’ll find most of made his early fortune here, buying up smaller the good eats, pubs and museums. mining claims and launching De Beers Consolidated Mines in 1888. But all the glitz and glamour came at a price. Hordes of immigrants flocked to Kimberley TOURIST INFORMATION HISTORY wealth-filled region and persuaded the resident with big dreams and empty pockets. De Beers Griqua to request their protection against the employed thousands of migrant black laborers, who Diamond (Diamantveld) Visitors Centre (S The Northern Cape is home to some of South advances of Boer settlers in the Orange Free toiled years for pennies in the depths of the Big 28 44.800 E 024 45.928, 121 Bultfontein Rd, Africa’s last remaining indigenous populations in State. In one fell swoop, the British established Hole, the world’s largest hand-dug excavation. But 053-832-7298, www.solplaatje.org.za, 8am-5pm the country. Art by the area’s original inhabitants, Griqualand West and brought the world’s largest their story is often outshined by the 2,722 kilograms Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) has tons of brochures for the nomadic San, still adorn rock faces and caves diamond mine of the day within British control. of diamonds that they extracted from the earth. Kimberley as well as other provinces. They also throughout the province. The San were later joined The mining town was renamed Kimberley in 1873, Today, a visit to The Big Hole offers a glimpse into can help arrange or point you in the right direction by Khoikhoi pastoralists from the north; together after the Secretary of State for the Colonies, what life was like for these miners at the turn of the for tours in and around Kimberley. they became jointly referred to as Khoisan. When Lord Kimberley, and soon became a thriving twentieth century. Europeans settled in the Cape in the mid-1600s, metropolis. Cecil Rhodes, future Prime Minister Now officially part of the greater Sol Plaatje many Khoisan retreated north of the Orange River of the Cape Colony, made his fortune in the Municipality, named for one MONEY into the arid and barren landscapes of the Karoo Kimberley diamond mines after buying up smaller of South Africa’s greatest and the Kalahari Desert. Some Khoisan intermixed claims and establishing De Beers Consolidated ABSA (S 28 44.596 E 024 45.726, cnr Lennox St & with renegade Europeans and runaway slaves and Mines Company in 1888, history’s greatest Bultfontein Rd) has ATMs and a bureau de change. formed new clans such as the Griqua, Kora and diamond monopoly. Standard Bank is located across the street. Oorlams. By the mid-1700s, these mixed-race Kimberley’s opulent days came to an end FNB and ABSA (S 28 45.902 E 024 45.916, horseback hunters and traders became infamous during the South African War of 1899-1902. Within Diamond Pavilion Shopping Mall, cnr Oliver Rd/ NORTHERN CAPE for traversing the interior, raiding villages in days of the declaration of war, the Boer army N8 & Macdougall St) have branches within the search of booty and slaves to sell to the Cape laid siege to Kimberley and trapped its citizens. Diamond Pavilion Shopping Mall. Colony. Today, the Nama, who live along the For more than four months, British attempts to western coast of Namaqualand around present- break the siege were frustrated by guerilla tactics day Springbok, is one of the largest remaining of the Boer forces, but eventually the lines were Khoisan populations in the country. broken and the town relieved. Throughout the

NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN The relative independence of these indigenous remainder of the bloody war, the region was the inhabitants was undermined quite literally in 1685, stage for many of the major battles of the Western when an expedition from the Cape Colony led Campaign, the remnants of which have been by Cape Governor Simon van der Stel, invaded meticulously preserved. Namaqualand to mine for copper. But it was the The lack of a large black African population in discovery of a shiny pebble near the convergence the region meant that the wide-open spaces of of the Orange and Vaal Rivers in the 1860s that the Northern Cape did not suffer as much from triggered the great South African diamond rush apartheid as its neighbors. Afrikaner culture and forever changed the course of Northern Cape remains strong, and in the eastern region, small history. Thousands of money-hungry prospectors yet controversial Afrikaner-only settlements have from all corners of the globe flocked to South been established to preserve the Afrikaner way of Africa and descended upon the dusty town of life in the post-apartheid era. In 1994, the Cape New Rush, transforming it into an overcrowded Province was split to officially create the Northern shantytown, rife with gambling and prostitutes. Cape and its southerly neighbors, the Western The British were quick to ensure control of the and Eastern Capes. 558 NORTHERN CAPE — Kimberley modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Kimberley — NORTHERN CAPE 559

INTERNET 28 44.333 E 024 45.293, West Circular Rd, 053- framed photographs that adorn a reconstructed 830-4426, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, tours hourly, R70) is bedroom #5 upstairs, but for the most part, the Small World Net Café (S 28 44.733 E 024 45.881, a fascinating look into a diamond-mining town of building now displays the history of man – from 3 Galeshewe Township 42 Sidney St, 053-832-4239, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, yesteryear. The complex is home to the Big Hole million years ago to life in modern-day Kimberley. Galeshewe Township (S 28 43.313 E 024 44.475) is R10/15min) has four older PCs available and has itself, the largest hand-dug excavation in the world, Tours can also be arranged through the McGregor one of the oldest townships in South Africa. It was scanning, faxing and printing capabilities. Laptops but almost more interesting is the combination of Museum to visit the Dunluce (S 28 44.812 E 024 originally established as Number Two Location in can be connected. original and replica buildings that come together 46.759, 10 Lodge Rd) and Rudd Houses (S 28 1871 as a home for workers digging the Kimberley Telkom (S 28 45.902 E 024 45.916, Diamond to recreate the mining town that once flourished 44.7634 E 024 46.570, Loch St), two fabulous Mine. It was here in 1886, that De Beers built the Pavilion Shopping Mall, cnr Oliver Rd/N8 & around Kimberley’s big hole. Though a little like examples of wealth in the city during the early country’s first large, male-only compounds, the likes Macdougall St, 053-831-1188, 9am-6pm Disneyland, this attraction distinguishes itself 1900s. of which would become a painful staple for black Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) has one by its continued use of historical buildings from Duggan-Cronin Gallery (S 28 44.874 E 024 migrant laborers throughout the 20th century. The computer available for 30 minutes of free Internet. the late 1800s. Stay a night at the Australian 46.899, Edgerton Rd, 053-839-2719, 9am-5pm township has been home to some of South Africa’s Arms Hotel built in 1873 or grab a drink at the Mon-Fri, wkends by appt) is one of the best greatest activists, including writer, intellectual and Occidental Bar. The tour above and around the photography museums in South Africa. Alfred political organizer Sol Plaatje, as well Robert Sobuk- SHOPPING Big Hole is well worth it and includes a 20 minute Duggan-Cronin came to Kimberley in 1897 to we, the founder of the Pan Africanist Congress, who movie on the history of the diamond rush, a walk work for De Beers as a security officer in the moved here upon his release from prison on Rob- Jewel Box (S 28 44.333 E 024 45.293, Big Hole, out onto the viewing platform of the Big Hole compounds, but he soon began photographing ben Island. Under apartheid, the area was officially 053-832-1731, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm and a simulated underground mine experience. the different tribes that worked the mines. This established as the Kimberley Township in 1952, and Sat) is located at the Big Hole complex and has The last stop is at the De Beers diamond vault passion expanded and eventually led Duggan- renamed after the great 19th-century, anti-colonial a massive array of jewelry and diamonds for within the museum, which houses some of the Cronin to document indigenous peoples on more rebel Chief Galeshewe of the Batlhaping tribe. purchase. company’s most remarkable finds. than 18 expeditions throughout South Africa and Galeshewe today is a safe and friendly township. Diamond Pavilion Shopping Mall (S 28 45.902 McGregor House Museum (S 28 44.977 E neighboring countries. It’s a great place to spend a day and mingle with lo- E 024 45.916, cnr Oliver Rd/N8 & Macdougall 024 46.814, Atlas Rd, 053-839-2722, www. William Humphreys Art Gallery (S 28 44.624 E cals, with many spots to grab a bite to eat, drink and St) has a Checkers, cinema, banks and numerous museumsnc.co.za, 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2pm-5pm 024 46.135, 1 Cullinan Cres, 053-831-1724, 8am- shop. For the adventurous, you can take a minibus other stores. Sun, guided tours by appt, R18) was originally 4:45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4:45pm Sat, 2pm-4:45pm taxi from Kimberley (R8). Ask to go to the Ekhaya built as a sanitarium in 1897 at the instigation of Sun, R5) is a large gallery featuring an eclectic Guest House (S 28 43.313 E 024 44.475, cnr Hulana St Cecil Rhodes. The building itself has had a varied collection of European and South African art. & Montshiwa St, Galeshewe, 053-874-3795, s R250, SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES past, serving the town as a hospital, a hotel and It would be easy to lose yourself for a couple of d R330-450) where you can get your bearings along a convent school before being converted into a hours in this museum; just be sure to find your way with a beer. The township itself is a little hard to The Big Hole & Kimberley Mine Museum (S museum. Some of its rich past is maintained in to the back to enjoy some tea in their pleasant navigate, however, so it might be worth taking a tour. garden café when you’re done. These can be arranged through the tourist informa- NORTHERN CAPE Sol Plaatje Museum and Library (S 28 44.762 tion office or by calling Vuyo Mayez (078-122-6862) E 024 45.806, 32 Angel St, 082-804-3266, 8am- or Pulane Setlhodi (053-872-1180) for private tours. 4pm Mon-Fri) is located in the former home of Solomon Tshekisho Plaatje, the first Secretary- General of the ANC, whose work as a politician, journalist, and writer took him on travels around pool) is a backpacking and budget traveler mega- the world. Fluent in at least seven languages, complex located just outside of town. The lodge’s NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN Plaatje became the first black South African to largest dorm room sleeps 40 people, but it also write a book in English. He also translated many has six-bed dorms and private rooms. There is of William Shakespeare’s works into his native a mini-fridge full of beer in the reception and tongue of Tswana. Plaatje’s life is commemorated lounge area. in this museum. Call ahead to make sure the Ekhaya Guest House (S 28 43.313 E 024 44.475, museum is open. cnr Hulana St & Montshiwa St, Galeshewe, 053-874-3795, s R250, d R330-450) is located in the heart of the Galeshewe Township. The four SLEEPING standard en suite rooms here are bare bones, but the thatched roof executive cottages are fairly Budget nice and have spa baths with separate showers. Gum Tree Lodge (S 28 44.286 E 024 48.456, cnr There is also a two-room “miner’s shanty” with an Hull St & Bloemfontein Rd, 053-832-8577, dm open air shower available if you want to get a feel R80-120, s R200-250, d R400-500, wifi, swimming for township living. There is a restaurant and bar 560 NORTHERN CAPE — Kimberley Map modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Kimberley Map — NORTHERN CAPE 561

GALESH as well, but it is important to call ahead or arrange EWE RD 1050, breakfast included, Internet, secure parking) WEST1 TO 2 Ekhaya Guest House (1.5km) KIMBERLEY with reception to make sure that the kitchen is is another tip of the hat to Kimberley’s mining BIRD RD EAST TO open. Gum Tree Lodge (2.5km) TOURIST INFO Rudd House...... 9 D4 history. Located within the Big Hole complex, this Diamond Visitors Centre...... 1 D2 Sol Plaatje Museum and Lib...... 10 C2 Stay-A-Day (S 28 45.115 E 024 45.776, 72 Lawson hotel was built in 1873 and the main building has William Humphreys Art Gallery.11 C3 N12 K

E MONEY St, 053-832-7239, s R300, d R350, parking) has stayed very true to its original form. Over time,

L V B

A I ABSA...... 2 C2 N SLEEPING A Diamond Mine SALK ST the atmosphere of a fly-by-night motel with the hotel expanded into other authentic buildings

R

S FNB...... (see 4)

K Australian Arms Guest House.. (see 5) T L Bowling Y Edgerton House...... 12 D4 shared shower facilities, although the beds are within the complex to now offer 13 spacious en ELLIOT ST S Club T Stay-A-Day...... 13 D2 INTERNET comfortable and the rooms have TVs and AC. T suite rooms with clawfoot bathtubs and lavish PNIEL RD YBURN The Estate Private Hotel...... 14 D4 S ST Small World Net Café...... 3 C2 T The Kimberley Club...... 15 C2 O Telkom...... (see 4) beds. The hotel also has a restaurant and pub. C Mid-Range K The Kimberley Club (S 28 44.467 E 024 45.944, D

TRANSVAAL ST EATING A SHOPPING L The Ant Walk...... 16 C2 The Estate Private Hotel (S 28 44.782 E 024 35 Currey St, 053-832-4224, www.kimberleyclub. E ST Diamond Pav. Shopping Mall.... 4 F2 OPER S R Butler’s...... (see 14) AR RD T Jewel Box...... (see 5) 46.747, 7 Lodge Rd, 053-832-2668, www. co.za, s R745-850, d R945-1060, Internet/wifi, N CIRCUL N ST The George & Dragon Pub...... 17 D4 PSO THO M Halfway House Hotel...... 18 D4 theestate.co.za,s R350-600, d R550-850, wifi, secure parking) has stayed true to its roots in more SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mario’s...... 19 C3 S SOUTHEY ST

B T Occidental Bar...... (see 5) secure parking, swimming pool) was originally ways than just the building. Separate ladies and O The Big Hole & Kimberley Mine

C Museum...... 5 B1 built as a wedding present for Mary Oppenheimer men’s bars maintain an old boy’s club feel. The K TRANSPORTATION D Duggan-Cronin Gallery...... 6 D4

A W 5 Open Dunluce House...... 7 D4 Diamond Visitors Centre...... (see 1) in 1907 and housed the family until 1915. The men’s bar is a throwback to the glory days of Boer N12 L . JONES ST E C McGregorD House Museum...... 8 D4 Minibus Taxi Rank...... 20 C2 Mining S UN I owners strive to offer their guests the same luxury expansion – it’s easy to imagine plumes of cigar R T E

C L Area L U D as was enjoyed by the Oppenheimers, who now smoke and old men playing card games in the

L T U S T A O IN IT R A SPA HALL ST own the house next door. The hotel has beautifully M 20 15 N parlor; stuffed wild game remain mounted on the R RD W CU E RREY ST CRAVENN ST B furnished rooms that stay true to the early 20th wall above. The rooms themselves are very nice U BO YORK ST D REGI SHO L U MENT F R T WA D century decadence of the city, while still offering with dark wood and plush bedding. S. CIRCULAR RD T T Y F 16 S O ST X IT EORGE O NO S tastefully integrated modern features such as flat G EN P Queens N L HOSPITAL ARD P C 2 N A C T R Park R K screen TVs and jacuzzi or spa showers in some ST E D 19 R LONG I D N 11 rooms. If it is available, the best room in the hotel EATING & DRINKING

R FOLEY ST D TO is the master bedroom, Room #2. HALKETT RD D S DD ST R PE JAN SMUTS BLVD T NC 3 JAN SMUTS BLVD S ER L T N R Edgerton House (S 28 44.926 E 024 46.741, Mario’s (S 28 44.633 E 024 46.283, 159 Du S ELLESMERE RD MALLETT RD U LODGE RD HALKETT RD 10 H N 9 HOLLAND ST D 17 14 5 Edgerton Rd, 053-831-1150, www. Toitspan Rd, 053-831-1738, mains R40-120) is a O N RD LY DU TOITSPAN RD ETT S 1 HALK W S 7 edgertonhouse.co.za, s R595, d R750, breakfast tasty Italian restaurant in a prime location. There A N12 YN

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LAW ST G included, secure parking, swimming pool) are plenty of pasta and pizza options and the O G

U 6 HUNT ST E SCANLAN ST DALHAM RD S was built in 1901. Classic T HENDERSON ST vegetarian lasagna is delicious. Sit outside on the

WATERWORKS ST

FRANCEYS ST 12

MEMORIAL RD D T

architecture combined NORTHERN CAPE R patio and people watch or inside in the colorfully D STEWART ST D S

PIENAAR ST 18 SYNAGOGUE ST N

MEYER ST K O TRUTER ST VOORTREKKER ST T 8 with the black and C R decorated dining room. E A Memorial E G BOT L MCGREGOR Park E MAIN PL TO

MLEY ST B V white photos The Ant Walk (S 28 44.528 E 024 45.827, cnr Jones T

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S St & York St, 053-832-8011, 8am-

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O house make a 10pm, mains R35-50) is the S

ROGERS ST 13 W K

A H CENTRAL PL R RESERVOIR RD L S

BIRBECK RD stay here feel local favorite for traditional I

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W R Van DAHLHAM RD like a step back South African fare. It’s a

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NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN into time. Stay little hard to find, right in CARRINGTON RD W Hoffe W. GASSON ST Beaconsfield Park DEVINISH PL in the Madiba the center of the bustling E Park MEMORIALO’BRIAN ST RD E OLIVER RD Room if you want Jones Street area, but Keely Memorial T BARTLE PL ORTIEP ST S the real old world the establishment offers Park R JACOBUS SMIT ST E G N luxury including a rare country classics like ULTZICT ST I FRERE PL KEKEWICH ST L G. SCHUUR ST N12 JACOBUS SMIT ST ULTZICT ST CARRINGTON RD T L S U N8 P clawfoot bathtub in your afval (sheep head and HABERFELD NST E D POOLE ST BROADWAYSTUDYFRED. PL ST PL E bedroom. Nelson Mandela feet) and mutton curry. M MCCLINTOCK ST A AH stayed in this room when he Butler’s (S 28 44.782 E GR HOLLINGWORTH ST KEARS ST visited Kimberley. 024 46.747, The Estate R T CONSTANTIA ST R S D R O RED HERCULES ST H WILF Private Hotel, 7 Lodge Rd, S KESTEL ST C I RD R HE Top End E S W A RD F 053-832-2668, 7am-9am & L E IA L K IC I BR T E A V F Australian Arms Guest House 6:30pm-9pm, mains R50- S K

MEMORIAL RDE .D IS R V EAST TO (S 28 44.333 E 024 45.293, Big is the restaurant inside A 105) D Kimberley Airport (6km) R 1000ft A Hole Complex, 053-830- The Estate Private Hotel. DG GOEDEHOOP E 500m 2 3 4 4402, s R720-795, d R880- This is one of the nicer 4 562 NORTHERN CAPE — Witsand Nature Reserve modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Upington — NORTHERN CAPE 563

restaurants in town, so if you don’t get a chance to 44.800 E 024 45.928, 121 Bultfontein Rd) on the viewing sites. TOURIST INFORMATION stay here as a guest, it is definitely worth a visit for Joburg/Pretoria route. You can buy tickets here Sandboards (R100/day) and bikes (R70/day) are dinner. Specialties include succulent Karoo lamb, directly at Tickets 4 Africa or at the Checkers (S 28 available for rent if you choose to cruise and glide Tourist Information Center (S 28 27.400 E Kimberley beef and crocodile. 44.668 E 024 45.835, cnr Bultfontein Rd & Lennox down the steep dunes. 021 14.718, Mutual St, 054-338-7151, 7:30am- Occidental Bar (S 28 44.333 E 024 45.293, Big St). The buses also stop at the Shell Ultra City on The 4x4 sand dune trail (R290/vehicle) will lead 4:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12pm Sat) has brochures Hole, 053-830-4418, 9am-7pm Mon-Thu, 9am- the N12. you off-road on a deep sand adventure. and flyers available for places to stay and tours. 10pm Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun, mains It also has a small selection of information for R30-70) has a limited menu of the typical grilled Minibus Taxi nearby cities. meats, pastas and salads. The breakfast omelets, Minibus Taxi Rank (S 28 44.456 E 024 45.718, SLEEPING however, are fit to keep you working a full day in cnr Bultfontein Rd/N12 & New Main St) has taxis the mine. Stop in for a bite to eat or a drink when available to Bloemfontein (2hr, R70), Upington There is one central bush camp around the main MONEY you tour the Big Hole. (4hr, R160), Cape Town (5hr, R300) and Joburg lodge with picnic sites, two swimming pools and a Halfway House Hotel (S 28 44.956 E 024 46.703, (4hr, R250). You can also catch a taxi to Galeshewe small shop selling basic food and drinks. ABSA (S 28 27.440 E 021 14.879, cnr Schroder 229 Du Toitspan Rd, 053-831-6324, 10:30am- Township (R8) from here. Caravan and Camping Sites (R80/person) each St & Hill St) has a bureau de change and ATMs 12am Mon-Sat, R35-65) is a cheery wood-lined have a water tap, electricity and a large fire pit available. restaurant and bar with a slightly more complete with braai stands. Standard Bank (S 28 27.411 E 021 14.813, cnr pub menu than other options in Kimberley. If you WITSAND Bungalows (R140/person) are basic rooms that Scott St & Hill St) has full banking services with an just need to quench your thirst in the evening, this NATURE RESERVE sleep two to four people with shared bathroom FNB one block away. pub is a good destination. GPS: S 28 33.984 E 022 29.249 facilities. Note that no towels are provided in the The George & Dragon Pub (S 28 44.781 E 024 elevation 1,200 m/3,937 ft bungalows. 46.478, 187 Du Toitspan Rd, 053-833-2075, R30- Chalets (d R960, 4-person R1,240, 6-person R1,800) INTERNET 80) will provide you with fantastically greasy pub Witsand Nature Reserve (S 28 33.984 E 022 are 4-star rated spacious thatched roof buildings food. You might want to hit this place as more of a 29.249, 053-313-1061 or 083-234-7573, www. with three bedrooms, AC and a full kitchen. BSA Rekenaardienste (S 28 27.278 E 021 14.816, drinking locale than for the food, but they do have witsandkalahari.co.za, 8am-6pm, adult R40, child 58 Le Roux St, 054-331-2689, 8am-5pm Mon- good bunny chow. R20) is a beautiful isolated patch of white sand Fri, 8am-12pm Sat, R15/30min) has 16 updated dunes surrounded by copper-red Kalahari sand. EATING & DRINKING computers for Internet, printing and CD/DVD The dunes, which range from 20-60 m high, are burning. Laptops can also be connected. TRANSPORTATION also known as the “Roaring Sands” because of the There is no restaurant or bar at the nature reserve, Jam Office (S 28 27.307 E 021 14.855, cnr River low roar produced when the wind blows across but there is a small shop that sells bread and braai St & Market St, 054-337-7300, 8am-5pm Mon- Air the hot dry sand. packs. Fri, 8:30am-12pm Sat, R15/30min) has three Kimberley Airport – KIM (S 28 47.673 E 024 computers available for Internet and printing. NORTHERN CAPE 46.406, N8, 053-851-1241) is serviced by South Laptops can also be connected. African Express ( 011-978-5577, www.saexpress. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES TRANSPORTATION co.za) with flights to Cape Town (R1,400) and Joburg (R780). Hiking is permitted throughout the entire reserve. Make sure to take plenty of fuel, as the nearest SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES For the best views, scale the dunes to see over filling station to Witsand is 80 km away. Bus the windswept sands and the surrounding Acacia Kalahari Oranje Museum (S 28 27.678 E 021 Translux/City-to-City ( 086-158-9282 or 021- woodland and Langeberg Mountain range. There 14.616, Schroder St, 7:30am-4pm Mon-Fri) is NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN 449-6209, www.translux.co.za) buses stop at the is also a 3 km botanical walking trail through UPINGTON located inside of an old church near the southwest Diamond (Diamantveld) Visitors Centre (S 28 Kalahari veld with 43 plant species and picnic and GPS: S 28 27.434 E 021 14.630 end of Schroder Street. The main building has a pop. 100,000 | elevation 804 m/2,638 ft collection of local historical photographs and news articles, but head outside to the rear of the Upington is situated along the fertile banks of the property to look at the more interesting Manse Orange River, a stark contrast to the otherwise House. Here, you can explore each of the rooms arid and dry landscape. The city is a good base in this authentic house from the late 1800s; this is from which to explore the surrounding area, one of the rare times you can view history without which is host to an array of outdoor activities, the being stuck behind a velvet rope. plunging waters of Augrabies Falls and the fine Orange River Wine Cellars (S 28 26.553 E libations of the Orange River Wine Cellars, one 021 12.555, Industria Rd, 054-337-8800, www. of the largest wine consortiums in the country. orangeriverwines.com, 7:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, The city itself has a small vibrant town center that 9am-12pm Sat, tasting R10) has been producing is easily explored on foot. wine along the Orange River for more than RONDOM ST 564 NORTHERN CAPE — Upington Map modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Upington — NORTHERN CAPE 565 NORTH TO VREDE ST ST RUGER Upington Airport (7km) RUSTIG ST L K PAU MALAN ST Mid-Range P 40 years. Starting with just three wines, the RONDOM ST A 2 MARITZ ST 3 U 4 L N10 PRINCESS ST CONRADIE ST K conglomerate has grown to 950 members, Libby’s Lodge (S 28 26.574 E 021 16.256, 140 SWARTMODDER WAY R U HAMLIN ST G covering 300 km and producing more than 30 Schroder St/N14, 054-332-2661, s R380, d R510, VURK ST E R V A S N T products. The cellar is definitely worth a stop, if breakfast included, wifi, parking, swimming pool)

R I MARITZ ST E only for the bottomless glasses of good wine. is a relaxing escape from the main town. Despite B E A GEDDES ST E 500ft C its location right on the N14, this guesthouse PRESIDENT STEYN ST K

CORONATION ST S 200m BAIN ST T BORCHERD ST still manages to maintain a tranquil air, with TOURS gardens and a large swimming pool. Each room MALHERBE8 ST ST MP is different, but includes new furnishings and CA ST COETZEE ST ER IET Sakkie se Arkie (S 28 27.644 E 021 14.720, spacious bathrooms. R360 TG PO BULT ST T Park St, 082-564-5447, www.arkie.co.za) is Kalahari Guesthouse (S 28 27.744 E 021 14.366, G S LIN JOS best known around town for its sunset cruises 6 Mark St, 054-339-3474, Kalahari@telkom. SINJAAL ST DIA GO on the Orange River. There is a bar onboard, sa.com, s R250, d R350, breakfast included, NA L B MOODIE ST ST AUGRABIES ST B which leaves the decision up to you as to Internet) is a local affair that will make you feel MALHERBE ST WATER ST MORANT ST BULT ST whether or not you want to make this relaxing like you are staying with friends. Neighbors often trip down river into a booze cruise. Trips depart gather to watch football games on the living room KALAHARI ST N10 from the Sakkie se Arkie location at the end of TV. The rooms are not much to look at, but the AUGRABIES ST N14 KO Park Street (just head down towards the river) at owners are very friendly and you will definitely feel -O P E R 5:30pm and last 1.5hr. Sakkie also offers tours like part of the family rather than a paying guest. STASIE ST A 14 S IE S of the national parks, 4x4 trips, river rafting and T T S ILL 4 paintballing. Top End H 13 5 Tata Ma Tata Tours ( 054-339-1112, www. Protea Hotel Oasis (S 28 27.536 E 021 14.764, 26 C MARKET ST C WEST TO 15 HILL ST tatamatata.co.za) can arrange trips for you to Schroder St, , www.proteahotels. LE ROUX ST T 054-337-8500 Orange River Wine Cellars (4.5km) S T T the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Augrabies com/oasis, s/d R750-1,000, family R1,000-1,200, 1 O C S N10 Falls, Witsand Nature Reserve and the |Ai|Ais/ breakfast included, Internet/wifi, swimming pool) 3 KORT ST 2 LUTZ ST SCHROEDER ST Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, among many is the slightly newer and more modern version of other spots. its sister hotel, the Protea Hotel Upington, located PARK ST 18 CARLTON ST across the street. Rooms are simple and neutrally 19 11 LOUW ST decorated with wood furnishings and replica rock DAVITZ ST 16 Orange River UPINGTON 17 SLEEPING art on the walls. The lounge downstairs is a little MARKET ST WEIDEMAN ST TOURIST INFO D VAN COPENHAGENKORT ST ST more chic and has a small bar for hotel guests. S LE ROUX ST 7 NORTHERN CAPE E Tourism Information Office...... 1 C2 N BRUG ST Budget D SCOTT ST Amenities such as the swimming pool are shared E L SCHROEDER ST MONEY I 6 N Aardwolf Backpackers (S 28 26.833 E 021 between the two hotels. G ABSA...... 2 C3

S Standard Bank...... 3 C3 T 15.205, 22 Malherbe St, 079-287-9315, www. The White House @ Belurana River Manor 10 12 aardwolfbackpackers.com, dm R85, s/d R200, (S 28 27.791 E 021 14.523, 2 Brug St, 082- 9 INTERNET BRAND ST BSA Rekenaardienste...... 4 C3 breakfast included) is a recent addition to the 925-3029, www.beluranaupington.co.za, s/d Jam Office...... 5 C3 otherwise non-existent backpacker scene in R600-1,500, breakfast included, secure parking, SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Upington, with big plans for expansion. The swimming pool) is a stately mansion with exquisite NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN Kalahari Oranje Museum...... 6 D2 location is walking distance from town and the appointments and a great location right on the E Sakkie se Arkie...... 7 D2 host, Freddy, will pick you up for free from the Orange River. The rooms have plush canopy beds SLEEPING Aardwolf Backpackers...... 8 A4 airport or Intercape bus stop. and jacuzzi tubs in the bathrooms. Die Eiland Holiday Resort...... 9 D3 Die Eiland Holiday Resort (S 28 27.756 E 021 Kalahari Guesthouse...... 10 D1 Protea Hotel Oasis...... 11 D3 14.973, off the N10, 054-334-0286, camping The White House @ Belurana River Manor...... 12 D2 R70, s/d R345, parking, swimming pool) is an odd EATING & DRINKING place, but worth a visit for budget travelers who EATING & DRINKING N10 want a show. From the police trainings (there is a Le Must (S 28 27.607 E 021 14.651, 11a Schroder About...... 13 C3 Dros...... 14 B3 Police Station at the main entrance) to the hordes St, 054-332-6700, [email protected], 12pm- Havana Club...... 15 C3 F Irish Pub & Grill...... 16 D2 of monkeys that overrun the camp, just sitting 2pm & 6pm-10pm Mon-Fri, 6pm-10pm Sat-Sun, Le Must...... 17 D2 outside your tent or on your front porch is sure mains R90-115) comes highly recommended by

TRANSPORTATION to entertain. The self-catering rooms are pretty the locals and is one of the fancier restaurants to Intercape...... 18 C2 standard with cottages and rondavels along the try in Upington. They serve a variety of traditional Minibus Taxi Rank...... 19 D2 1 2 3 riverfront. dishes, including bobotie and baked sheep head.

566 NORTHERN CAPE — Upington modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park — NORTHERN CAPE 567

Outdoor seating is in a narrow alley beside the 4 km north of town. To get there, take Le Roux restaurant. St/N10 headed northeast and continue onto KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK About (S 28 27.272 E 021 14.888, 67 Market St, Malherbe St. At the roundabout, take the first Kgalagadi Transfrontier GPS: S 26 28.349 E 020 36.715 082-569-0043, 6pm-10pm, mains R80) is one exit onto Borcherd St. Follow this until it becomes Park Gate Times elevation 879 m/2,884 ft of the few non-chain restaurants in town. The Diedericks Rd. Continue for 3.3 km; the airport is January...... 6am-7:30pm chic décor and ostrich leather chairs provide a on the right. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (S 26 28.349 E February...... 6am-7:30pm comfortable setting to enjoy a selection from the 020 36.715, 054-561-0021, www.sanparks. March...... 6:30am-7pm grill or one of the lighter fish or salad options. Bus org/parks/kgalagadi, adult R160, child R80) is April...... 7am-6:30pm Vegetables and herbs are grown in the garden Intercape (S 28 27.516 E 021 14.750, Lutz St, an enormous wildlife preserve that covers 380 May...... 7am-6pm out back. 086-128-7287, www.intercape.co.za) has an square km of the Kalahari Desert. The park June...... 7:30am-6pm Irish Pub & Grill (S 28 27.585 E 021 14.727, 20 office and pickup location on Lutz Street between spans across the South Africa and Botswana July...... 7:30am-6pm Schroder St, 054-331-2005, 8am-12am, mains Scott Street and Schroder Street. Intercape borders and runs along roughly 200 km of the August...... 7am-6:30pm R70-150) is a little fancy, if you can call any Irish stops at Kimberley (5hr, R250) on their Upington Namibian border. September...... 6:30am-6:30pm pub fancy. The menu includes an extensive Bloemfontein route, and Springbok (4hr, R210) on The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park was formed October...... 6am-7pm selection from the grill and its location right on the the route to Cape Town (12hr, R290). with the merger of the Gemsbok National Park November...... 5:30am-7:30pm river makes for a great spot to enjoy an afternoon in Botswana and the Kalahari Gemsbok National December...... 5:30am-7:30pm or evening steak and a beer. Minibus Taxi Park in South Africa in 2000, although the two Havana Club (S 28 27.331 E 021 14.822, 55 Mark Minibus Taxi Rank (S 28 27.522 E 021 14.593, parks both date back to the 1930s and had St, 054-331-1398, 8am-12am Mon-Sat, mains cnr Park St & Market St) is located on Park Street previously been managed as one ecological the South African section of the park, but a 4x4 R40-115) is a chain restaurant and cigar club. It is and has daily trips to Springbok (2.5hr, R150), unit. is generally required within the Botswana area. one of the few places to go out for a drink in town Kimberley (3hr, R150), Joburg (7hr, R250) and Cape The rough Kalahari Desert is dominated by Make sure to carry plenty of water in your vehicle and usually attracts a good crowd on weekend Town (9hr, R300). copper-red sand dunes, and occasional scrub as you will need to drink a lot to stay hydrated in nights. and trees line the dry riverbeds of the Nossob the hot desert and if your vehicle breaks down Dros (S 28 27.221 E 021 14.765, River St, 054- and Auob rivers. Incredibly, a series of life- or gets stuck you might have to wait a while. 331-3331, 8am-12am, mains R70-125) is another sustaining watering holes supplies populations No cell phone reception is available within the chain restaurant in town, but one of the better of large predators including lions, leopards, park except at the Twee Rivieren camp. Allow ones. It is a dark wood pub and restaurant that cheetahs, and hyenas that patrol the park and ample time for driving, as traveling within the serves salads, seafood, grills, burgers, pizza and feed on the migratory herds of wildebeest, park after dark is not permitted and you can be sweet or savory pancakes. On weekends it’s a springbok, red hartebeest, gemsbok and eland. fined for arriving at camps or gates after sunset. popular drinking spot. The park is also known for its more than 200 species of birds including migrating flamingos, NORTHERN CAPE TRANSPORTATION pelicans and over 50 different birds of prey. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Temperatures within the park can vary Air drastically between day and night. Summer day Game Drives are available during the morning Upington Airport - UTN (S 28 24.528 E 021 temperatures frequently top 40 °C/104 °F and and at sunset (adult R145, child R70) or full day 15.336, cnr Diedericks Rd & N10) is located about winter nights dip below freezing. (5hr, adult R250, child R125), and all depart from The Twee Rivieren gate (S 26 28.439 E 020 Twee Rivieren, Nossob, Mata Mata and the ) is the only entry and exit gate for the Kalahari Tented Camp. Note that the drives are NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN 36.788 park in South Africa. On the Namibia side there offered “when available” so be sure to check in is the Mata Mata gate and from Botswana there advance. are the Two Rivers, Mabuasehube and Kaa gates. Morning Walks (R245, adults only) are also Passports are not required to enter the park and available from Twee Rivieren, Nossob and Mata visitors are free to drive throughout regardless Mata. of which country they entered from. South Auchterlonie Museum (S 26 11.092 E 020 32.787, Africa’s Twee Rivieren gate and Botswana’s Two admission free) is an old fieldstone farmhouse with Rivers entrance are the only gates with passport displays on the park’s history. Part of the display control, so all visitors transiting from one details the series of watering holes that dot the country to another will have to report to one of park, which were hand-dug during WWI as a water those two camps. Note that entry via the Mata source for South African troops, had they decided Mata gate requires a two-day stay in the park. to invade Namibia via that route. The museum is All roads within the park are unpaved. If the located 35 km north of the Twee Rivieren Camp conditions are good a 2x4 can be used within near the Auchterlonie waterhole. 568 NORTHERN CAPE — Kgalagadi modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Kgalagadi Map — NORTHERN CAPE 569

SLEEPING Wilderness Camps 1 2 3 4 In order to preserve the pristine atmosphere, Accommodation within the South African area the wilderness camps, with the exception of the UNION of Kgalagadi can be booked through SAN Kalahari Tented Camp, are limited to a maximum END Parks ( 012-428-9111, www.sanparks.org/parks/ of eight people in four cabins. The wilderness A Kgalagadi kgalagadi). camps are not fenced in, but each camp has an 5 20mi onsite staff member 24hr a day. No firewood, Trans-Frontier 20km Traditional Camps charcoal or drinking water is provided, and should Park All three traditional camps in the park have be brought to the camps, with the exception 4 swimming pools, filling stations and shops of Grootkolk and Kalahari Tented Camp, selling basic foods, wine and beer. which have gas for cooking and water B Twee Rivieren (S 26 28.349 E 020 36.715, to boil. Children under 12 years are O camping R135-150, chalet R690-855, 4-person not allowed at Kieliekrankie, Urikaruus, chalet R980-1,150, swimming pool) is the largest Gharagab, Bitterpan or Grootkolk B Kgalagadi T B NOSSOB camp in the park, located beside the dry Nossob camps. S River. It is also the park’s administrative Grootkolk (S 24 53.463 E 020 National 9 headquarters and the only camp with 08.704, cabin R880) is located in W a restaurant, information center, 24hr the far north of the camp, 20 km Park electricity and cell phone reception. from Union’s End where South A Mata Mata (S 25 46.030 E 019 Africa, Botswana and Namibia BITTERPAN N meet. About 6hr from the Twee MATA 3 59.985, camping R150, chalet MATA R520-950, 4-person chalet R1,450, Rivieren camp in the south, 8 C 6 A C swimming pool) is situated on the Grootkolk is generally Auob River near the Namibian accessible with a 2x4 border. The camp is surrounded by vehicle. The small sandbag thorny Kalahari bushveld and known and canvas cabins are ground URIKARUUS for its many giraffes. Generator- level but have a partially fenced- 7 provided electricity is in braai pit in front. There is one 2 provided for 18hr per communal kitchen at the site. 1 11 day. Gharagab (S 25 02.580 E 020 05.045, KIELIE Nossob (S 25 25.303 E 020 35.802, cabin R820) is located in the northern D KRANKIE D NORTHERN CAPE

camping R150, chalet R530, 4-person end of the park on a 4x4-only trail off NAMIBIA chalet R820-1,045, swimming pool) the main road. The four freestanding TWO is situated on the dry bed of the elevated cabins have a full kitchen RIVERS Nossob River. Surrounded by and sitting deck with a view 10 savannah trees, this is the best of the watering hole and the camp for viewing predators, and surrounding dunes, spotted a predator information center is with thornveld Savannah. There is also a NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN located at the center. Generator- lookout tower at the camp. E provided electricity is also Kieliekrankie (S 26 11.025 E 020 35.535, KGALAGADI available. cabin R880) is located in the southern SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES section of the park, 45 km from the Twee Auchterlonie Museum...... 1 D3 Riviern camp. The four wood and canvas SLEEPING !Xaus Community Lodge...... 2 D2 units have been recently renovated with Bitterpan...... 3 C3 large windows, a sitting deck, and a braai Gharagab...... 4 A2 Grootkolk...... 5 A2 overlooking the watering hole. The camp has Kalahari Tent Camp...... 6 C2 Kieliekrankie...... 7 C3 panoramic views of the red Kalahari dunes. Mata Mata...... 8 C2 Urikaruus (S 26 00.645 E 020 21.017, cabin Nossob...... 9 B3 F Twee Rivieren...... 10 D3 R880) has four corrugated, tin and canvas bi- Urikaruus...... 11 D3 level cabins, with a lower level, connected EATING kitchen and a bedroom far enough off the ground Lion’s Den Restaurant...... (see 10) to park your vehicle under. The camp is located on 2 3 4 570 NORTHERN CAPE — Augrabies Falls National Park modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Augrabies Falls National Park — NORTH- 571

the dry Auob River and surrounded by camelthorn such as kudu, ostrich and venison as well as trees. Each bedroom has a viewing deck of the seafood and a few vegetarian options. watering hole located about 50 m away. Bitterpan (S 25 42.980 E 020 24.191, cabin R795) TRANSPORTATION has four elevated, reed and canvas cabins with a communal kitchen and braai. There is a 6-meter- Access to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park tall lookout tower at the camp that offers a good from South Africa is via a 255 km tarred road from vantage point to observe the nearby watering Upington or via Van Zylrus on a 340 km gravel road. hole. The recently built camp is located on a 4x4- It is advisable to travel via the tarred road from only route from Nossob to Mata Mata through the Upington as the gravel road via Van Zylrus can be Kalahari dunes. badly corrugated. Upington airport is the nearest Kalahari Tent Camp (S 25 47.124 E 020 01.110, airport to the Park and has car rental facilities. safari tent R905, swimming pool) is the original, largest and most luxurious of the wilderness camps. Air It is located only 3 km from the Mata Mata camp, There is a small landing strip for light aircraft at where fuel and basic supplies are available. There Twee Rivieren but there is no regular commercial are 15 spacious, elevated, en suite safari tents with flight service. a ceiling fan and viewing deck overlooking the watering hole. !Xaus Community Lodge (S 26 09.005 E 020 AUGRABIES FALLS The Dassie Nature Trail (5 km, 2-3hr) is a circular there are central washing facilities, a cooking area 15.392, 021-701-7860 or 079-771-1418 www. NATIONAL PARK trail that starts at the main rest camp and continues with electric stoves and a braai area. xauslodge.co.za, s R3,250-3,705, d R5,000-5,700, GPS: S 28 35.577 E 020 20.285 along the gorge to Arrow Point, which offers Chalets (chalet R600-675, swimming pool) are en swimming pool) is the most unique and luxurious elevation 623 m/2,044 ft spectacular views of the gorge. Other points of suite with a small kitchen and AC. Outside is a of all the accommodation options within the park. interest along the trail include large potholes that braai and sitting area. Each chalet has two single This isolated lodge is on a private concession Augrabies Falls National Park (S 28 35.577 E were carved into the rocks from the water and a beds and a pullout couch. There are also two that is owned and run by the Khomani San and 020 20.285, 054-452-9200, www.sanparks.org/ granite dome called Moon Rock. larger family cottages (R1,100-1,400) that sleep up Mier communities. This concession was the result parks/augrabies, 7am-6:30pm, adult R88, child Klipspringer Hiking Trail (open Mar-Oct only, to six people. of a historic land agreement between the tribal R44) was originally referred to as Aukoerebis or R140/person) is a demanding but beautiful 39 Kalahari Outventures (S 28 39.721 E 020 communities and the South African government “the place of the great noise” by the Khoi people. km three-day two-night hiking trail that covers 24.743, R359, 082-476-8213, www.kalahari. that returned a section of the park back to the This thundering comes from the thick current of a substantial portion of the park. The first day is co.za) is located 11 km from the park’s main gate communities that previously lived in this area. the Orange River, which plunges down the 56 m almost entirely along the gorge and the following and offers day tours within the park (R500/person) NORTHERN CAPE There are 12 luxury units situated at the lip of a Augrabies Waterfall into a granite gorge. The two days wind through the interior of the park. and rafting trips down the Orange River (half large saltpan overlooking a watering hole. !Xaus falls are near the main rest camp, which has picnic Overnight accommodation is in rustic huts with day R350/person, full day R685/person, overnight will provide you with an authentic taste of the and braai facilities, a swimming pool and a small bunk beds. Drinking water and firewood are R1,150/person). All rafting trips include meals and bushman lifestyle including tracking animals, shop and restaurant. The surrounding 550 square supplied but sheets, electricity and showers are a tent for camping on the overnight trip. shooting bow and arrow, eating traditional kilometers of the park is a dry and rocky desert not available and camping is not permitted. food and learning about local medicinal plants. spotted with trees and scrub suited for the harsh Night Game Drives (1.5hr, adult R100, child R50) Included in your stay is both an afternoon and landscape. The most prevalent wildlife in the park are offered subject to availability and should be NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN EATING & DRINKING night game drive, and a morning wilderness walk is springbok, gemsbok and giraffe but there are booked in advance. through the dunes. numerous other small mammals, birds and reptiles Mountain Biking is allowed within the park as Shibula Restaurant (S 28 35.577 E 020 20.285, including the colorful Augrabies flat lizard. long as you stay on the roads. Bikes are available 054-451-5031, 7:30am-9:30pm, mains R70-100) for rent or you can bring your own. is located at the main rest camp. It serves three EATING & DRINKING meals a day with an emphasis on meat including SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES steak, ribs and chicken. There is also a small shop Aside from the restaurant and shop at Twee SLEEPING located at the main rest camp. Rivieren and the shops at Nossob and Mata Mata, Augrabies Falls (S 28 35.475 E 020 20.411) is the you are on your own for food. Drinking water is park’s main attraction and is an impressive sight to Accommodation Augrabies Falls National Park not available at the wilderness camps, so plan see and hear - especially when the Orange River can be booked through SAN Parks ( 012-428- TRANSPORTATION accordingly. is in full flood from March until May. There isa 9111, www.sanparks.org/parks/augrabies). Lion’s Den Restaurant (S 26 28.349 E 020 36.715, viewing deck beside the big falls just 250 m from Camp and caravan sites (camping R145, swimming There isn’t any public transportation to Augrabies Twee Rivieren, 7:30am-9am & 6:30pm-9pm, mains the main rest camp where you can watch the river pool) are located at the main camp and are spread Falls National Park, but tour operators can provide R50-90) has a meat heavy menu including game drop into the gorge below. out under trees. Each site has a power point and pickup services from Upington. 572 NORTHERN CAPE — Springbok modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Springbok — NORTHERN CAPE 573

namaqualand.net) has a number of three to five-day SPRINGBOK trips available to explore the region, including visits 2 3 4 GPS: S 29 39.990 E 017 52.987 to Kalkfontein, Richtersveld and Namaqualand. pop. 10,000 | elevation 942 m/3,091 ft Trips can be customized to suit your interests. N7 Springbok is a quiet former mining town in the Star Gazing (S 29 41.024 E 017 53.165, 4 Jowell heart of Namaqualand, the traditional home of the St, 072-199-7615, by appt, closed Sun) is a new A Nama people, who have lived in sparse settlements activity for Springbok based out of the Kokerboom in the region for centuries. Just 120 km from the Observatory. Stars can be viewed using a Newtonian Namibian border, Springbok is a convenient rest reflector telescope and some of the brightest stars stop on your way in or out of the country. But and sunspots can be observed during the day. PRESIDENT ST between August and mid-October each year, the Booking is essential. To get there, head south on N14 city bursts to life with botanical enthusiasts when Voortrekker St for about 2 km out of town. Make a the barren granite hills transform into a sea of vivid, right on Van Riebeeck St and take the first left on 5 colorful wildflowers. There is only one main drag, Jowell St. B 13 B Voortrekker Street, which makes navigating the LUCKHOFFUITSPAN ST ST N7 T town pretty simple. If you come for the colors of S RIVER ST ER EERSTE LAAN spring, make sure to book lodging well in advance SLEEPING KK LODGE ST RE to avoid disappointment. HOSPITAL ST RT O Budget VO Showgrounds Cat Nap Accommodation (S 29 40.347 E 017 53.083, Voortrekker St, 083-753-7246, dm R150, N14

TOURIST INFORMATION VAN DER STEL ST 11 NAMAKWA ST NAMAKWA s/d R450-550) has 12 dorm beds available inside 14 EERSTE LAAN Tourism Information Office (S 29 40.335 E 017 of a large garage near the rear of the property as C C 2 53.040, Voortrekker St, 027-712-8035, 8:30am- well as a few private en suite rooms. Although the EAST TO PIETER MALAN STEERSTE LAAN Springbok Caravan Park (1km) PASTORIE ST N7 4:15pm Mon-Fri, flower season: 7:30am-5pm staff gets mixed reviews, it is one of the few budget 7 10 9 12 Mon-Fri, 9am-12pm Sat) can provide you with options in town. ST CLOETE KOWIE information regarding places to stay and activities Springbok Caravan Park (S 29 40.399 E 017 around Springbok. 53.935, Airport Rd/R355, 027-718-1584, camping

V R65/person, s/d R280, parking, swimming pool) O WELKOM ST N

R 3 4 8 is located just outside of town on the road to the I E B

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airport and has campsites that include water and C D NORTHERN CAPE MONEY K

electricity. There is a pool and laundry service S T

Standard Bank (S 29 40.114 E 017 52.967, available as well. From town, head northeast on Voortrekker St) is centrally located with ATMs and a Voortrekker St and make a right on R355. The park SPRINGBOK bureau de change. will be on your left after about 1 km. TOURIST INFO

Tourism Information Office...... 1 E2 FNB (S 29 39.967 E 017 52.964, cnr Monument St V & Namakwa St) is located downtown with an ABSA Mid-Range O MONEY O FNB...... 2 C1 (S 29 39.922 E 017 52.948) on the same block. Springbok Hotel (S 29 40.002 E 017 52.911, 87 R Standard Bank...... 3 D1 NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN T R

Van Riebeeck St, 027-712-1161, www.jcbotha. V E

O 1 K INTERNET E N K 6 co.za, s R315-460, d R540-620, secure parking) Something Online...... 4 D1 R E

I E R provides a glimpse into Springbok’s historic past. B

E SLEEPING INTERNET S

C T Don’t let the colonial façade and creak of the K Annie’s Cottage...... 5 B1

S

T Cat Nap Accommodation...... 6 E2 Something Online (S 29 40.112 E 017 52.992, 57 hallway floors fool you though, the double rooms Masonic Hotel...... 7 C1 Voortrekker St, 027-712-2561, 8am-5pm Mon-Thu, are clean and modern with spacious bathrooms and Mountain View Guest House...... 8 D2 Springbok Hotel...... 9 C1 8am-4pm Fri, R15/15min) has three older computers air conditioning. The single rooms, however, are a Springbok Lodge & Restaurant...... 10 C1

available for Internet and printing. Laptops can also little cramped. EAST TO Star Gazing (600m) EATING & DRINKING be connected. Masonic Hotel (S 29 39.993 E 017 52.948, Van Springbok Lodge & Restaurant...... (see 10) Riebeeck St, 027-712-1505, www.jcbotha.co.za, Tauren Steak Ranch...... 11 C2 F N14 Titbits Pizza Restaurant...... 12 C1 s R400-540, d R635-710, secure parking) is located right across the street from the Springbok Hotel and TRANSPORTATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Engen Filling Station...... 13 B3 shares the same owner. The simple wood furniture Minibus Taxi Rank...... 14 C1 Koperberg Tours & Safaris ( 083-873-3390, www. and worn couches in the rooms may not have been 1 2 3 574 NORTHERN CAPE — Richtersveld Transfrontier Park modernoverland.com modernoverland.com Richtersveld Transfrontier Park — NORTHERN CAPE 575

renovated recently, but the art deco architecture is to the 1930s. The kitchen offers up burgers, steaks worth walking by even if you don’t stay there. and schnitzel with a few seafood and vegetarian Springbok Lodge & Restaurant (S 29 40.001 choices. It’s a popular spot for weekend breakfasts. E 017 53.012, 37 Voortrekker St, 027-712-1321, Tauren Steak Ranch (S 29 39.908 E 017 53.064, 2 [email protected], s R225-300, d R325-400) Hospitaal St, 027-712-2717, 6pm-late, mains R40- was originally built in 1929 as the Springbok Private 150) has a large selection of, you guessed it, steaks. Hotel and Café. The building and restaurant still While it probably won’t be the best steak you have retain their vintage charm and the hotel has since ever had in your life, it is big. There is also a good expanded to cover the entire block and some bar towards the back if you’re just looking for a surrounding houses. You’ll know the additional watering hole. lodge accommodations immediately – they’re all tough, arid land, and should not be taken lightly. ablutions block offering cold water showers. painted yellow and white. The hotel has simple, Take care when packing for sun protection and Tatasberg Wilderness Camp (S 28 14.924 E 017 no-frills rooms, but has a decent restaurant and TRANSPORTATION bring a sufficient water supply. Temperatures can 14.806, cabin R540) is located near the Orange convenience store in the main building. vary drastically between day and night. Summer River with basic two-bed self-catering reed cabins Bus daytime temperatures can reach near 50 °C/122 with 12-volt lights (but no general electricity), Top End Intercape (086-128-7287, www.intercape.co.za) °F and winter nights dip below freezing. Also showers, gas refrigerator and stove. The water at Annie’s Cottage (S 29 39.720 E 017 52.957, 4 buses stop at the Engen Filling Station (S 29 note that there is no cell phone reception within these camps is not suitable for drinking and guests King St, 027-712-1451, www.springbokinfo.com, 39.737 E 017 53.492, Voortrekker St) on the far the park. are advised to bring their own drinking water. s R600-850, d R800-1,000, breakfast included, northeast side of town. Destinations include Cape De Hoop Camp (S 28 11.026 E 017 10.680, Internet/wifi, swimming pool) is one of the nicest Town (7hr, R210) and Upington (4hr, R180). camping R145) is the most popular of the campsites guesthouses in town with 11 luxurious en suite SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES within the park because of its scenic location right rooms, each with individual themes ranging from Minibus Taxi on the banks of Orange River. The campsites are animal print to plum. The newly built honeymoon Minibus Taxi Rank (S 29 39.937 E 017 52.996, cnr Three Hiking Trails within the park lead visitors basic with cold showers. suite has a spacious bathroom with a clawfoot tub. Van der Stel St & Namakwa St) is located across through the panoramic Ganakouriep Valley. The Richtersburg Camp (S 28 15.191 E 017 13.236, Relax in the shady garden under a jacaranda tree from the FNB. Long distance minibuses go to Cape trails are open from April until September and camping R145) is located directly on the Orange or take a dip in the pool and spend some time in Town (7hr, R240), Upington (4hr, R150), and Joburg include the Kodaspiek Trail (two days), Lelieshoek- River and has rustic campsites with refreshingly cold the sun. (10hr, R500). Oemsberg Trail (three days) and Vensterval Trail showers. Mountain View Guest House (S 29 40.108 E 017 (four days). Heading out on the trails requires a Kokerboomkloof Camp (S 28 18.399 E 017 53.182, 2 Overberg Ave, 027-712-1438, www. qualified guide, either from the park or from within 17.419, camping R145) is located inland and there mountview.co.za, s/d R550-600, breakfast included, |AI|AIS/RICHTERSVELD the group. is no water available at this site. The closest water Internet/wifi, secure parking, swimming pool) is a Canoes are available for rent (R15/hr) from source is at Richtersburg (32 km away). TRANSFRONTIER PARK NORTHERN CAPE pleasant retreat on the outskirts of town at the foot GPS: S 28 07.427 E 016 53.442 Sendelingsdrif Rest Camp. It is also possible to go of the mountain range. Room styles range from elevation 39 m/128 ft on guided multi-day canoe trips but arrangements masculine mahogany to pink floral motifs. If your with the main camp must be made at least a week EATING & DRINKING room doesn’t suit your taste, you can always hang |Ai|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park (S 28 in advance. out by the pool or in the surprisingly chic lounge. 07.427 E 016 53.442, 027-831-1506, www. The only food available for sale on the South African sanparks.org/parks/richtersveld, 7am-6pm, adult side of the park is a small shop at the Sendelingsdrif R110, child R55) is a massive 6,045 square kilometer Camp that sells takeaways, chips, cold drinks and NORTHERN CAPE NORTHERN SLEEPING EATING & DRINKING transfrontier park formed in 2003 with the merger firewood. All food for the duration of your trip of the |Ai|Ais Hot Springs Game Park in Namibia Accommodation within the South African side of should be purchased outside and brought into the Titbits Pizza Restaurant (S 29 40.002 E 017 52.982, and the Richtersveld National Park in South Africa. the park can be booked through SAN Parks ( 012- park. Voortrekker St, 027-718-1455, 7am-9:30pm Mon- The vast majority of this beautiful but rugged desert 428-9111, www.sanparks.org/parks/richtersveld). Sat, 12pm-9:30pm Sun, mains R10-50) is a popular park lies north of the Orange River within Namibia. Sendelingsdrif Rest Camp (S 28 07.427 E 016 local joint with cheap pizza and an outside patio to The landscape is striking, with beautiful mountains 53.442, camping R145, chalets R535, swimming TRANSPORTATION enjoy a beer or three. It is located across the street and rugged rock formations. The few notable pool) is a newly built rest camp that serves as the from the Springbok Lodge. signs of life include the “half-human tree,” which headquarters of the South African side of the park. The park is accessible by 4x4s and high clearance Springbok Lodge & Restaurant (S 29 40.006 is a colorful succulent that somewhat resembles There are 10 en suite chalets, each with a gas fridge, 2x4s only. Traveling in a group of two or more vehicles E 017 53.020, 37 Voortrekker St, 027-712-1321, a human figure. Nama people believe the trees electric stove and a deck overlooking the Orange is recommended. Crossing into the Namibian side [email protected], mains R30-80) is an old embody their ancestors. These plants are able to River. of the park is possible via a ferry (8am-4:15pm) fashioned diner with walls covered in newspaper survive on the heavy morning dew, as there is little Potjiespram Rest Camp (S 28 04.828 E 016 56.798, across the Orange River at Sendelingsdrif Camp. articles, license plates from around the country and rainfall in the desert. camping R145) is located near the Orange River Diesel and petrol (although not unleaded petrol) photos of the Springbok rugby team dating back The conditions in this area are true desert with and has sandy camp sites with a newly constructed are available at the Sendelingsdrif Camp only.