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Do We Really Suffer for Fashion
University of Huddersfield Repository Almond, Kevin You have to suffer for Fashion Original Citation Almond, Kevin (2009) You have to suffer for Fashion. In: Public Lecture University Centre Barnsley, July 2009, University Centre Barnsley. (Unpublished) This version is available at http://eprints.hud.ac.uk/id/eprint/9663/ The University Repository is a digital collection of the research output of the University, available on Open Access. Copyright and Moral Rights for the items on this site are retained by the individual author and/or other copyright owners. Users may access full items free of charge; copies of full text items generally can be reproduced, displayed or performed and given to third parties in any format or medium for personal research or study, educational or not-for-profit purposes without prior permission or charge, provided: • The authors, title and full bibliographic details is credited in any copy; • A hyperlink and/or URL is included for the original metadata page; and • The content is not changed in any way. For more information, including our policy and submission procedure, please contact the Repository Team at: [email protected]. http://eprints.hud.ac.uk/ You have to suffer for Fashion Introduction: ‘You have to suffer fashion,’ has been a much used phrase throughout the history of fashion. Degrees of suffering and discomfort have varied and we have probably all endured agonies, in some way, when constructing our appearance, in order to face the world. This could range from a simple cut from shaving, to the discomfort and pain of folding tender flesh into a girdle! These are only two, of numerous possible examples. -
The United States Holocaust Memorial Museum to Pay
JANUARY 2003 VOLUME 16 NUMBER 3 THE UNITED STATES HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL MUSEUM TO PAY TRIBUTE TO HOLOCAUST SURVIVORS IN NOVEMBER 2003 WASHINGTON, DC--Once a dream for send a message to the American people preserved, will be open. There will be honor the living,and offer hope for the many survivors, The United States about the importance of remembrance for presentations about the photo archives, future. The ceremony will be broadcast live Holocaust Memorial Museum is now a the future. survivor programs on the Website and on the Website, where visitors can post reality that reaches millions of Americans curator-led tours of the Museum’s special messages of honor and remembrance. from all walks of life every year, with its A Unique Living Legacy exhibitions: Hidden Children and American mission of remembrance and education. “Survivors Day at the United States Responses to the Nazi Book Burnings will Remembrance and America The Museum approaches its 10th Holocaust Memorial Museum” be offered continuously. President George W. Bush and Prof. Elie Anniversary when the world still faces Wiesel will be invited to speak. There will be deadly dangers, and the lessons of the brief remarks prior to a candle-lit procession Holocaust become ever more critical. Now to the Hall of Remembrance, where there will more than before, the mission of the be a memorial candle-lighting. Museum becomes urgent. As a token of gratitude to the U.S., The Museum’s sacred obligation to survivors will present the President with A preserve and transmit the legacy of the Living Legacy, a one-of-a-kind book of survivors, and their enthusiastic support photographs of themselves and their and involvement with the survivors, has descendants, now in the fourth generation, made the Museum an extraordinary success. -
Grants and Acquisitions
Ann-Christe Galloway Grants and Acquisitions Columbia University, New York Univer Treasures” program. The $250,000 award will sity, and SUNY Stony Brook libraries support the conservation and preservation have received $37,000 from New York State of the library’s new Native American Collec for a Columbialed effort to preserve and tion. Valued at $8.3 million, Cornell’s Native photocopy endangered color atlases and American Collection documents the history other oversized materials. The volumes and ethnology of native peoples of the Ameri to be copied include municipal atlases cas, from the colonial period to the present. published in Europe and the United States Widely acknowledged as one of the most dis in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, tinguished collections of its kind, the core of and a distinctive, largeformat Chinese arts the collection was formed in the early 1900s journal published between 1934 and 1937. by George Heye, founder and director of the Many of the items are in constant use by Museum of the American Indian. In 1930, the library patrons and show signs of extensive museum transferred its Native American book damage and deterioration. The project will collection to the Huntington Free Library and produce approximately 4,350 preservation Reading Room in the Bronx. In May 2004 the photocopies on acidfree paper that can be Huntington Library formally transferred the shelved in openstack areas of the libraries, collection to Cornell, where it could be better so that the originals can be protected in cared for and made more accessible to stu closed or offsite storage facilities. -
M&S: Swimwear
M&S: Swimwear Style for the sun since the 1930s 1920s & 1930s In 1928 we sold bathing suits and bathing caps. Customers shopping for their holidays at M&S in the 1930s would have seen our advertising leaflet for woollen swimsuits. The swimsuits were colour-fast to both sea and sun so were wearable, durable and fashionable. The first swimsuits were offered in a variety of styles to suit the wearer’s modesty: from ‘a regulation one piece... which essentially spells swimming’ to ‘a combined brassiere and shorts to give the utmost comfort and freedom’. Swimwear Marketing Leaflet, 1930s Ref: HO/11/1/5/27 1939 Swimwear available in 1939 included expanding swimsuits, and swimsuits with ripple stitch detail. In the late 1930s we sold knitting patterns for clothing, including swimsuits. Knitting Pattern, late 1930s 1950s After the Second World War, Chairman Simon Marks knew the M&S customer was demanding ‘better materials, better design, better finish…’ Scientific developments made during the war were used to fulfil customers’ needs. New fabrics such as rayon and nylon were widely used to provide people with easy-wear, easy-care garments, and were perfect for swimwear. Shape-enhancing features, such as padded busts were introduced and strapless styles became popular. For men, swimming trunks with elasticated waists were big sellers in the 1950s. Blue Cotton Swimsuit, 1950s Ref: T52/3 1962 In the 1960s beachwear became more popular with customers. The M&S stand at the 1962 Ideal Home Show sold as much swimwear in one day as an average store would sell in a week! The stand was St Michael News, Spring 1962 a joint venture between M&S and British Nylon Spinners to promote Bri-Nylon. -
Fifty Shades of Leather and Misogyny: an Investigation of Anti- Woman Perspectives Among Leathermen
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Sociology Department, Faculty Publications Sociology, Department of 5-2020 Fifty Shades of Leather and Misogyny: An Investigation of Anti- Woman Perspectives among Leathermen Meredith G. F. Worthen University of Oklahoma, [email protected] Trenton M. Haltom University of Nebraska-Lincoln, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/sociologyfacpub Part of the Family, Life Course, and Society Commons, and the Social Psychology and Interaction Commons Worthen, Meredith G. F. and Haltom, Trenton M., "Fifty Shades of Leather and Misogyny: An Investigation of Anti-Woman Perspectives among Leathermen" (2020). Sociology Department, Faculty Publications. 707. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/sociologyfacpub/707 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Sociology, Department of at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Sociology Department, Faculty Publications by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. digitalcommons.unl.edu Fifty Shades of Leather and Misogyny: An Investigation of Anti-Woman Perspectives among Leathermen Meredith G. F. Worthen1 and Trenton M. Haltom2 1 University of Oklahoma, Norman, OK, USA; 2 University of Nebraska–Lincoln, Lincoln, NE, USA Corresponding author — Meredith G. F. Worthen, University of Oklahoma, 780 Van Vleet Oval, KH 331, Norman, OK 73019; [email protected] ORCID Meredith G. F. Worthen http://orcid.org/0000-0001-6765-5149 Trenton M. Haltom http://orcid.org/0000-0003-1116-4644 Abstract The Fifty Shades books and films shed light on a sexual and leather-clad subculture predominantly kept in the dark: bondage, discipline, submission, and sadomasoch- ism (BDSM). -
A Countertenor's Reference Guide to Operatic Repertoire
A COUNTERTENOR’S REFERENCE GUIDE TO OPERATIC REPERTOIRE Brad Morris A Thesis Submitted to the Graduate College of Bowling Green State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF MUSIC May 2019 Committee: Christopher Scholl, Advisor Kevin Bylsma Eftychia Papanikolaou © 2019 Brad Morris All Rights Reserved iii ABSTRACT Christopher Scholl, Advisor There are few resources available for countertenors to find operatic repertoire. The purpose of the thesis is to provide an operatic repertoire guide for countertenors, and teachers with countertenors as students. Arias were selected based on the premise that the original singer was a castrato, the original singer was a countertenor, or the role is commonly performed by countertenors of today. Information about the composer, information about the opera, and the pedagogical significance of each aria is listed within each section. Study sheets are provided after each aria to list additional resources for countertenors and teachers with countertenors as students. It is the goal that any countertenor or male soprano can find usable repertoire in this guide. iv I dedicate this thesis to all of the music educators who encouraged me on my countertenor journey and who pushed me to find my own path in this field. v PREFACE One of the hardships while working on my Master of Music degree was determining the lack of resources available to countertenors. While there are opera repertoire books for sopranos, mezzo-sopranos, tenors, baritones, and basses, none is readily available for countertenors. Although there are online resources, it requires a great deal of research to verify the validity of those sources. -
The Temperamentals
Temperamentals.qxd 5/18/2012 1:59 PM Page i THE TEMPERAMENTALS BY JON MARANS ★ ★ DRAMATISTS PLAY SERVICE INC. Temperamentals.qxd 5/18/2012 1:59 PM Page 2 THE TEMPERAMENTALS Copyright © 2010, Jon Marans All Rights Reserved CAUTION: Professionals and amateurs are hereby warned that performance of THE TEMPERAMENTALS is subject to payment of a royalty. It is fully protected under the copyright laws of the United States of America, and of all countries covered by the International Copyright Union (including the Dominion of Canada and the rest of the British Commonwealth), and of all countries covered by the Pan-American Copyright Convention, the Universal Copyright Convention, the Berne Convention, and of all countries with which the United States has reciprocal copyright relations. All rights, including without limitation professional/amateur stage rights, motion picture, recita- tion, lecturing, public reading, radio broadcasting, television, video or sound recording, all other forms of mechanical, electronic and digital reproduction, transmission and dis- tribution, such as CD, DVD, the Internet, private and file-sharing networks, informa- tion storage and retrieval systems, photocopying, and the rights of translation into for- eign languages are strictly reserved. Particular emphasis is placed upon the matter of readings, permission for which must be secured from the Author’s agent in writing. The English language stock and amateur stage performance rights in the United States, its territories, possessions and Canada for THE TEMPERAMENTALS are controlled exclusively by DRAMATISTS PLAY SERVICE, INC., 440 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10016. No professional or nonprofessional performance of the Play may be given without obtaining in advance the written permission of DRAMATISTS PLAY SERVICE, INC., and paying the requisite fee. -
Coco Chanel's Comeback Fashions Reflect
CRITICS SCOFFED BUT WOMEN BOUGHT: COCO CHANEL’S COMEBACK FASHIONS REFLECT THE DESIRES OF THE 1950S AMERICAN WOMAN By Christina George The date was February 5, 1954. The time—l2:00 P.M.1 The place—Paris, France. The event—world renowned fashion designer Gabriel “Coco” Cha- nel’s comeback fashion show. Fashion editors, designers, and journalists from England, America and France waited anxiously to document the event.2 With such high anticipation, tickets to her show were hard to come by. Some mem- bers of the audience even sat on the floor.3 Life magazine reported, “Tickets were ripped off reserved seats, and overwhelmingly important fashion maga- zine editors were sent to sit on the stairs.”4 The first to walk out on the runway was a brunette model wearing “a plain navy suit with a box jacket and white blouse with a little bow tie.”5 This first design, and those that followed, disap- 1 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of her Own(New York: Henry Holt and Company, 1990), 287. 2 Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of her Own, 287; Edmonde Charles-Roux, Chanel: Her Life, her world-and the women behind the legend she herself created, trans. Nancy Amphoux, (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1975), 365. 3 “Chanel a La Page? ‘But No!’” Los Angeles Times, February 6, 1954. 4 “What Chanel Storm is About: She Takes a Chance on a Comeback,” Life, March 1, 1954, 49. 5 “Chanel a La Page? ‘But No!’” 79 the forum pointed onlookers. The next day, newspapers called her fashions outdated. -
Representations of the Olfactory Concept in Advertising: a Case Study
Argumentum. Journal of the Seminar of Discursive Logic, Argumentation Theory and Rhetoric 16 (1): 80-93, 2018 Brînduşa-Mariana AMALANCEI “Vasile Alecsandri” University of Bacău (Romania) Representations of the Olfactory Concept in Advertising: A Case Study Abstract: The analysis of a perfume advertising image can be done from multiple perspectives, the endeavors to provide possible reading paths and interpretations being among the most diverse in the literature. Whether it is to meet the consumers’ psychological desires, to relate to fashion trends, or to create a rare scent, perfume advertising is a real challenge, which often needs to be answered just by juxtaposing an image and the product name. Our paper highlights the way in which the correlation between the visual and olfactory forms of perfumes is attempted, through product name, vial, characters, context and text (Julien 1997). Because in many advertisements the perfume is replacing the character, we chose as a case study an advertising image that we consider illustrating in this respect, that of the new olfactory creation of Chanel, Gabrielle, which appeared in September 2017. We have to mention that the launch of this product has been marked by the appearance of homage articles in glossy magazines, which contributes, through the information provided, to a better understanding of the message the advertisement transmits. Keywords: image, visual identity, olfactory concept, olfactory memory, brand name, perfume name, perfume bottle, advertising context 1. Fragrances ‒ Vectors of Communication Considered a privileged way of communication, perfumes are an identity mark (Vettraino-Soulard 1992, 106). We can often hear in advertisements about perfumes for strong women, perfumes that suit active women, perfumes for romantic women, etc. -
Design Iterations Through Fusion of Additive and Subtractive Design
DESIGN ITERATIONS THROUGH FUSION OF ADDITIVE AND SUBTRACTIVE DESIGN A thesis submitted to the College of the Arts of Kent State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts by Gordon Stumpo May 2016 i Thesis written by Gordon Stumpo B.A., Washington State University, 2014 M.A., Kent State University, 2016 Approved by Vince Quevedo, Thesis Supervisor Brian Peters, Committee Member Margarita Benitez, Committee Member Dr. Catherine Amoroso Leslie, Graduate Studies Coordinator, The Fashion School Dr. Linda Hoeptner Poling, Graduate Studies Coordinator, The School of Art Mr. J.R. Campbell, Director, The Fashion School Dr. Christine Havice, Director, The School of Art Dr. John Crawford-Spinelli, Dean, College of the Arts ii TABLE OF CONTENTS Page LIST OF FIGURES ……………………………………………………………………………………….……….…….….vi LIST OF TABLES………………………………………………………………………………………...……….………..xi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS……………………………………………………………………………...………..………..xii CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION…………………………………………………………………………………………..………….13 Concept……………………………………………………………………………………...................................13 Design Framework…………………………………………………………………………………………..…13 Surface and Structure Frameworks…………………………………………………………….….……14 Additive Design…………………………………………………………………………………………..…..….18 Subtractive Design……………………………………………………….……………………………....….…18 Tension…………….……………………………………………………………………………….…………..…..18 Price Point…………….…………………………….………………………………………………………...…..19 Personal Skills & Background…………….……………………………………………………….…..…..19 Problem Statement & -
Half-Price Sale of Madeira Linens
The Brandeis Store Restaurant, Tenth will Mail Early Floor, not be open New Year's Eve. Buy Early* W« make this early announcement in order Attend the Hour Sales Monday that if desired, reservations may be made 9 to 10 A. M. 10 to 11 A. M.—300 10 to 11 A. M—360 So the Postal Employes at other placea. The Brandeis Rests u ants |[ will be open during tb regular hours New Can Have a ' Character Dolls China Celery Set Silk Vests ear's day—Monday, Entrance on 17th Baby Jersey street. Worth 50c Regular 1.25 Value Worth 1.59 Full Holiday Christmas Quantities No Phone are 25c 69c 1.00 limited; or Mail Bodice-topped vests we reserve dolls, This set consists of Art Novelties Sleeping baby with ribbon or Jersey Orders Only 12 More the right some with wigs, some oblong celery tray silk straps in dainty Metal Boudoir six individual salt dishes to flesh shades. All sizes m medium and ex- to with bald heads. All are with No limit jointed. tra lengths. First and second qualities. Days Lamps~01d ivory Eifhth Floor match* Fifth Floor—East Shopping purchases. Toird Floor—Center Deliveries finish with Dres- NO PHONE OR MAIL ORDERS—NO DELIVERIES Before Christmas— den decorations Shades lined with Shop Early rose or blue silk. Complete— ■ ■■ ■' j j .. 6.00 for Smokers' Stands of Solid Mahogany— Jewelry With heavy glass tray, glass match holder, cigar rests and O CA snuffers. Christmas Imported Nickel and Glass Ash Trays selections —Single trays and in sets. -
The Music and Musicians of St. James Cathedral, Seattle, 1903-1953: the First 50 Years
THE MUSIC AND MUSICIANS OF ST. JAMES CATHEDRAL, SEATTLE, 1903-1953: THE FIRST 50 YEARS CLINT MICHAEL KRAUS JUNE 2009 TABLE OF CONTENTS List of figures................................................................................................................... iii List of tables..................................................................................................................... iv Introduction.......................................................................................................................1 Chapter 1 – Music at Our Lady of Good Help and St. Edward’s Chapel (1890- 1907)..................................................................................................................5 Seattle’s temporary cathedrals......................................................................5 Seattle’s first cathedral musicians ................................................................8 Alfred Lueben..................................................................................................9 William Martius ............................................................................................14 Organs in Our Lady of Good Help ............................................................18 The transition from Martius to Ederer.......................................................19 Edward P. Ederer..........................................................................................20 Reaction to the Motu Proprio........................................................................24