24 MONACO YACHT SHOW M/Y AMADEA LUC PETTAVINO DAVID MARGASON SUSTAINABLE DESIGN AU DEPART VAN CLEEF & ARPELS QUATAR NATIONAL MUSEUM HarryWinston_ForceOne_YDNecklace_August.indd All Pages 7/16/19 10:35 AM HarryWinston_ForceOne_YDNecklace_August.indd All Pages 7/16/19 10:35 AM Between authenticity and modernity
CHÂTEAU LE CAGNARD ***** 54 rue Sous Barri, 06800 CAGNES-SUR-MER. TEL +33 (0)4.93.20.73.22 Réservations: [email protected] – www.lecagnard.com
PHOENIX Member of Phoenix Hotel Collection - www.phoenixhotelcollection.com HOTEL COLLECTION The temptation of lost paradise...
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Member of Phoenix Hotel Collection - www.phoenixhotelcollection.com PHOENIX HOTEL COLLECTION THE ALL-NEW PRINCESS V60 EXPERIENCE THE EXCEPTIONAL®
This is the time of year when you simply can't avoid EDITO thinking about the yacht of your dream. The glittering water of the Mediterranean is the display for hundreds motor yachts and sailing yachts. The most FORCE ONE beautiful among them will come to the Principality of Monaco, from 25 to 28 September, to be admired in all their beauty, and to seduce some fortunate buyer. As media partner of the most important yacht show in the #24 world, we are happy to share with you a preview of the event, as well as a description of Amadea, one of the most exciting yachts of the exhibition.
Sustainable yachting design will also be the subject of an article by internationally recognized designer Milena Cvijanovich, who joins our team of contributors.
A simple page is such a short space to anticipate all the other contents of this summer/fall issue of Force One, so let me wish you a good sailing, and a good reading!
Luca Marotta Publisher and Creative Director
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PRINCESS YACHTS MONACO +377 97 70 84 44 / +377 6 40 62 55 44 [email protected]
FIND OUT MORE AT PRINCESSYACHTS.COM
_0005B_2119 V60 SP Monaco v60[magazinead]v60sp-magazinead-235 x 340-v60.indd 1 26/07/2019 11:46 THE ALL-NEW PRINCESS V60 EXPERIENCE THE EXCEPTIONAL®
For Sales, Service or more information contact:
PRINCESS YACHTS MONACO +377 97 70 84 44 / +377 6 40 62 55 44 [email protected]
FIND OUT MORE AT PRINCESSYACHTS.COM
_0005B_2119 V60 SP Monaco v60[magazinead]v60sp-magazinead-235 x 340-v60.indd 1 26/07/2019 11:46 6
ATerrace on the blue
All the magic of an exceptional venue. Gourmet moments at the table of Patrick Raingeard, competing with a breath-taking setting. A moment of serenity, a rare address.
1312, AVENUE RAYMOND POINCARÉ
06360 ÈZE-BORD-DE-MER . FRANCE
T. 33 (0)4 93 76 29 29 . F. 33 (0)4 93 01 55 20
[email protected] . WWW.CAPESTEL.COM ATerrace on the blue
All the magic of an exceptional venue. Gourmet moments at the table of Patrick Raingeard, competing with a breath-taking setting. A moment of serenity, a rare address.
1312, AVENUE RAYMOND POINCARÉ
06360 ÈZE-BORD-DE-MER . FRANCE
T. 33 (0)4 93 76 29 29 . F. 33 (0)4 93 01 55 20
[email protected] . WWW.CAPESTEL.COM Creative Director 8 Luca Marotta Editorial Director Andrea Dini
Art Director Florent Sammut
INDEX Cover photo Amadea - Imperial Yachts © Guillaume Plisson
Fashion Editor Alberto Corrado
Jewelry and Watches Editor 10 Laura Canepa Senior Contributor 16 Alice Gardner Editor at large 22 Gina De Franco
Yachting - Amadea, a new icon Editorial Contributors - Monaco Yacht Show / OnlyWatch 2019 26 Stacey Blanchet Event Milena Cvijanovich / Porto Montenegro Maurizio DiMaggio 32 Keith Francis Interview - Luc Pettavino Nicholas Reds Manuela Schinaia Interview - David Margason 36 Peter Walford Design - Sustainable luxury Photographers 38 Joe Chua Agdeppa Design - Home & Yacht, same owner same vision Martin Argyroglo 40 Iwan Baan Gian Marco Castelberg Yachting - Renovation revolution Mihael Djuricic / La Dolce Vita on the waters of Montecarlo 44 Matilde Fanni Yachting - Riva Francesco Ferri Philippe Fitte 46 Yvan Grubski Fashion - Heritage and modernity imag[IN] Danica O. Kus Luxury - Destination Au Départ de Paris 50 MC Clic / Jacques Devaulx Michael Paniccia Book - Nautical Works 52 Guillaume Plisson Zoran Radonjic Economy - Taxation in the modern era 54 Translations / Van Cleef & Arpels Marsglobus Jewels - Courtly Love open to translation Ltd. 60 Venue - National Museum of Qatar Video Luca Coltri Fashion - La belle noiseuse by Paco di Canto 68 Web Fashion - Casual & Classic shopping 78 Force One sarl Advertising & Development Venue - Forgi's restaurant 86 [email protected] +33 (0)6 40 61 02 05 Luxury - Jean Shafiroff NY- & Monaco events guide 88 Colour Separation Interview - Valentina Castellani Efogra - Thomas Bourgoin 90 Printed in Italy on Fedrigoni Certified Event - Maitland goes golf Ecologic Paper by Arti Grafiche Civerchia 92 Event - Force One cocktail ISSN 2271-4111 94 www.force-one.net 9 © Guillaume Plisson 10 AMADEA A NEW ICON
By Alice Gardner
No truer word can be said than “a picture speaks a thousand words” when discussing the newest masterpiece from the powerful combination of Imperial Yachts and Lurssen: 106m M/Y AMADEA. It is almost impossible to capture the essence of absolute excellence that the quality of this yacht embodies. From the choice of wood for a particular grain to the inspiration taken from the fins of sperm whales for the design of the pitch propellers, AMADEA is pure floating ingenuity.
To put it almost crassly, AMADEA is how you would It is Nice-based designer Francois Zuretti’s background expect Louis XIV to commission a yacht; filled with in his work in the architecture and design of Middle white marble, gold, and exotic woods, as much as the Eastern palaces (as well as his various commissions exterior design is utterly - and equally - superb, the for the King of Morocco) that can be clearly seen interior of this yacht is simply breath-taking, and a game throughout. The level of intricacy in every detail changer in the definition of luxury. screams opulence, regality, and pure hedonism. 11 www.imperial-yachts.com
AMADEA is setting new boundaries in the superyacht industry, for the 100-110m range.
Julia Stewart, Imperial Director 12
One need only look at any one inch of the interior to garner an understanding of the sheer levels of sumptuousness the design exudes, and also the intelligence behind the layout; the owner and guests’ every comfort is predicted, catered for, and surpassed - something for which Imperial is very well known for. The sea terrace, for example, not only offers a dedicated area from which to leap into the cooling waters of the sea, but leads directly into a relaxation area with daybeds and a white marble staircase that allures one to ascend into the spa area. After a day spent exploring coves on a paddleboard, who wouldn’t want to come straight back in for a massage? © Guillaume Plisson
The mixture of light woods, leather, gold detailing and geometric marble is as if you have wandered directly into the most luxurious of Moroccan riads; the hammam, sauna, chromotherapy and massage room - illuminated by scented candles and aromatic teas - provides the perfect combination of relaxation and luxury after a day spent on the water, or indeed, as a way to start the day in style.
The furnishings throughout are, as expected, palatial, a mixture of fabrics and woods to compliment the ambience of each area on board; from velvet and leather, to silks and suede, the varying textures are as pleasing to the touch as they are the eye.
AMADEA has to be one of the finest examples of owner-focussed extravagance on the water, especially for those who value privacy above anything else. With a deck dedicated in its entirety to the owner - ranging from their very own entry/exit to the Helipad, to the fire-pit relaxation area aft, if it weren’t for the sun and swim deck pools they need never leave. The owner’s stateroom must be seen to be believed, just forward of a shimmering gold bathroom and separate dressing room. Not quite full beam, the 13
Since her delivery and even today, very few superyachts can pretend having such level of completion and detailing. Luxury is all about the details: we made Imperial’s motto the essence of our work on board AMADEA, and we are absolutely proud to release on the brokerage market such a fantastic vessel with proven credentials and exclusive amenities.
Julia Stewart, Imperial Director
outer decking allows for a greater feeling of The guests do not suffer from any decline in space while also allowing the ability to step this awe-inspiring owner’s interior, their VIP right into the sun for a gentle stroll around ensuite cabins of equal luxury and grandeur. the yacht. A large oval silk ceiling centrepiece and fireplace at the foot of the bed creates an Not that you would want to spend much ambience of relaxation and romance, perfect time in bed when there are so many places for retiring after a busy day. on board to find a private area to lounge and enjoy the ever-changing scenery outside. Moving after, the owner is also treated to their own private beauty room as well as an PYC-compliant, AMADEA can welcome up to office filled with every amenity imaginable 22 guests cruising and 16 guests sleeping in with an opulence one can only dream of. her 8-cabins layout. The owner’s mezzanine living room and whisky bar is to port of the starboard gym, The exterior areas of the yacht are also, whose facilities are so state-of-the-art they simply put, utterly superb. From the ever- entice you to workout. A private dining area talented pen of Espen Oino, the elevation of and lounge scream NYC-style penthouse the yacht, every single deck, is designed to luxury, every area connected by marble-clad perfection. AMADEA is as much a delight to corridors with gold accents and a mix of art see off the water as on. The tip of the bow is deco and classical motifs. just the tip of the iceberg…
14 © Guillaume Plisson Guillaume ©
A large steel albatross forms the head of the bow Every one of the five decks provides ample outdoor space setting AMADEA immediately apart from any other for making the most of the ever-changing sea view and yacht on the water. Watching the yacht glide across gentle breeze. Central to each deck aft are seating and the waves, the mighty albatross - whose wing span is dining areas giving unprecedented panoramic views. the greatest of any bird - flies above the water, steering a clear passage. This motif is continued on the limo It would be easy to list the facilities and amenities tenders in a stroke of design genius. The curvature of on board, yet that would not give a true picture the yacht’s aluminium superstructure gives protection of just how incredible AMADEA is. Every sense to each balcony, while the long and wide side decks must be stimulated in order to fully appreciate the give an ever greater sense of outside space. absolute magnificence of Imperial’s latest project and collaboration, their finest to date. No wonder the The capabilities for outdoor living on this yacht are yacht’s name translates to “God’s Beloved”. simply astounding; one need only approach from the aft to see the main deck infinity swimming pool (with stunning mosaic tiling) jut out and down the swimming platform, surrounded by sunbeds, as well as a swim up Displayed exclusively with Imperial bar. All 18 meters of AMADEA’s beam is fully accounted at Monaco Yacht Show 2019 (September 25-28) for when it comes to providing space for relaxation al Quai Rainier III, berth D02 fresco, as well as the fold down balconies allowing for a Information and appointments: Julia Stewart fully immersive experience. [email protected] / +377 97 98 38 80
YACHT MAIN SPECIFICATION
Shipyard: Lurssen Guest Accommodation: Tenders (main ones): Year of Delivery: 2017 AMADEA is a 8-cabin layout, 1 x Windy Custom Limousine 11m Exterior Designer: Espen Øino including: 1 x Windy Custom Open 11m Interior Designer: Francois Zuretti • Master stateroom on Owner’s deck 1 x Pascoe Beach Lander Length overall: 106.10m with an office, bathroom, walk in 2 x Castoldi Jet SOLAS Rescue Boats Length waterline: 91.7m wardrobe and a beauty salon Water Sports Equipment (main ones): Beam: 18m • 5 x Guest suites on Main deck: 3 with 2 x Sea-Doo GTX Limited 300 Guests (cruising): 22 double beds, 1 twin and 1 twin VIP. 1 x Sea-Doo GTR Guests (sleeping): 16 All main deck suites have 1 x Sea-Doo 260 RS Crew: 36 single sofa beds and twin beds 4 x Seabobs Maximum Speed: 20kn can be transformed into double ZR Jetpack Cruising Speed: 13kn • 2 x double Guest suite on Bridge deck ZR Flyboard
Specification provided for information only 15 16
MONACO YACHT SHOW 2019: OFF THE WATER
By Alice Gardner
Believe it or not, it’s that time of year again where there are less than 100 days until the next - and 29th - edition of the Monaco Yacht Show. As ever, the team behind MYS are set to build upon the successes of last year with an even bigger fleet on show. In fact, it’s the “longest” to date in terms of linear meters across the 125 or so magnificent vessels on display. © MC Clic 18
© MC Clic
Yet, even though this most famous of the global yacht want to show the perpendicular aspects of superyacht shows is focussed on superyachts, MYS isn’t all about ownership, showing that it is not just about life on the ownership (or the chartering) of a yacht being the end water. To many, this means ownership of a supercar too. goal; it’s the attention given to the yachting lifestyle that really sets them apart. This is why the introduction of the Each year we are astounded by how MYS can continually Car Deck in 2016 really was a game changer and continues better itself, and this year is no different. On display in the to be one of the most popular areas of the show. Car Deck will be 30+ of the world’s most exclusive and sought after supercars, as diverse a collection as the yachts “Our responsibility is to offer our visitors an entertaining moored outside. A popular display last year, Brabus returns and instructive plunge into the world of superyachting” again with their “All Time Stars by Mercedes-Benz Classic”, so says Gaëlle Tallarida, MD of MYS. And to do this they an incredible collection of converted Mercedes-Benz, their
© imag[IN] © © imag[IN] ©
speciality. Roaring up to the passerelle of your yacht in a classic Mercedes surely has to add that little bit of extra magic to yacht ownership.
For the real petrol heads, a treat is also in store with the collection from Gentleman Car, while LLM-Mecasport return to provide advice for the restoration of prestige and classic cars. They’ll be showing off their work with a personalised Porsche 911 3.0L RSR and 1977 911 2.7L Targa.
A worldwide debut of the Heritage Collection by Overfinch also features, as well as Garage Hotel who build state-of-the-art replicas of classic cars. And for fans of two wheels, Titan Motorcycle Co are showing off their drool-worth retro-style bikes. 20
With such an incredible display just up on the Car Deck, you can only imagine what the rest of the show has in store for visitors this year. It is undeniable that the allure of Monaco attracts the greatest yachts in the world, and this year is no different with over 40 new launches, 125+ yachts, and 580 exhibiting companies proving that this really is the premier yachting event in the global calendar.
It is this allure that also brings the best of the year’s new launches to be exhibited; Lürssen’s 95m Madsummer will be among one of the main attractions, as will the latest of Amels’ Limited Editions collection, the 67m Aurora Borealis. Surely one of the most visited yachts will also be Riva’s very first 50m superyacht, their flagship, M/Y Race, while one to raise the eyebrows will be another designed by Oino, Silver Yachts’ 85m Bold, as well as the incredible glass-centric 80m Artefact from the Nobiskrug shipyard.
With so many exquisite and industry-shaking yachts on display, in conjunction with the annual parties, MYS Lounge, Car Deck, and everything else on offer... we can’t wait.
MONACO YACHT SHOW
25-28 SEPTEMBER 2019 PORT HERCULES - MONACO 11AM - 7:30PM
www.monacoyachtshow.com © Imag[IN] 21 © Gian Marco Castelberg © Gian Marco 22 23
www.onlywatch.com
LUC PETTAVINO TIME TO DO GOOD By Luca Marotta
Energy, beauty, creativity. And the tranquil power of a man who’s managed to involve some of the world’s most important watchmakers in a struggle of hope and love. Luc Pettavino, founder of the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy, explains his outlook while presenting the eighth edition of Only Watch.
On Saturday, 9 November, Christie’s Geneva will be consistency to everything, meaning I try to do what I hosting the new edition of Only Watch, the auction say and say what I do, so people can trust this project of unique watches manufactured specifically for on the long term and understand every step of it. this occasion, the proceeds of which go 100% to the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy F.1.M. : At the start, how hard was it to convince to fund medical research. manufacturers to create unique pieces just for the Association? In the end, that’s a big commitment, F.1.M. : Only Watch is now in its eighth year and the both financially and in terms of effort. number of brands involved has constantly increased. L.P. : Well, there are lots of ways of making a piece Now there are 52 supporting this biennial charity unique: you can change the colour of watch, change auction, and you’ve raised over 35 million Euros. the metal of the case, work on the complication or Were you expecting a result like that when you have an artist paint the dial. Of course, the hardest started out? Did you have any figure in mind? way is to create a unique complication specially for L.P. : Absolutely not! All I knew was that I was prepared Only Watch, but I must say, this is happening more and to put positive energy and creativity into making more often as we go on. Manufacturers put enormous something beautiful happen. efforts into creating specific watches for this auction. The way I saw, and still see, this incredible adventure They know the more work they put in, the more is like climbing a mountain. Basically one step at the interest they'll get, and that means better results for time, but I often glance at the summit, just to be sure both the brand and the charity. Going back to your I’m moving in the right direction. It’s a process of original question: it wasn't that hard really. I was lucky focusing on the details while always bearing the big to have Blancpain as sponsor for the Monaco Yacht picture in mind. I never imagine any figure, so I can Show. And when I had the idea of Only Watch in 2004 only be positively surprised. I went to see the late Nicolas Hayek telling him about All I know is that I give the greatest possible it and asking if he would take part. He validated the 24 support of the Swatch Group and introduced me to the CEOs of the premium brands of the group. I also knew Yves Piaget from Monaco and some others... Then, I simply Googled ‘watch auction’ and the first name that popped up was Antiquorum. I called the owner, Osvaldo Patrizzi, and he helped me set up a base where I could talk about reality and not just hopes. At that point all we had to do was start calling everyone...
F.1.M. : The Only watch formula is simple: no brand gets a priority position and 100% of the income goes to the charity. Is this the secret for assuring total commitment from all involved? Transparency brings energy, so to say? L.P. : When I create a project, I try to make the pitch as simple as possible. For Only Watch it was “to create beauty to do good”: to create a unique version of an existing watch, or a unique watch, and every partner I involve can see there’s no money involved, contracts and such, even for manufacturing, and clearly see the charity itself has no costs: they understand what we’re doing, whether interested or not, but at least they don’t have to deal with questions like “what are the costs?”, “ what are the returns?”, “ how do they operate?” and such like. So we make it very simple: every brand gets a double page in the catalogue and the same size logo. It’s all very egalitarian and ethical. Somehow, all the people and all those brands accepted to do all this because they understood it was real, and efficient to support medical research. At the time our son Paul was still with us - he still is in spirit - but the situation back then made it easy for them to understand and support us. You know what? The beauty of Only Watch is that it’s a project that manages to stay fresh. The fact that it’s every two years gives people a proper break so when they see you again presenting the new edition they had time to reflect and are ready to start again in the right spirit.
F.1.M. : Every year would be too often. It would take too much energy. L.P. : All the brands have their own charity projects, so it’d be too much of a demand on them. That doesn’t mean I don’t keep in touch, paying visits, but in the “off” years more for keeping up relations, explaining, debriefing and beginning to think about what we could may be do for the next edition. But all nice and easy, no stress. For now it’s a winning formula.
F.1.M. : Previously in your career you turned the Monaco Yacht Show into the most important nautical event of the year, now Only Watch is another success, proving you’re certainly a great “conductor”. But how important are the “musicians”? L.P. : I often describe myself as a Specialist... in generalities... which means I understand the gist of what everyone’s doing but I’m no specialist in anything. The musicians are much more than important, they’re essential. They’re the ones who perform the symphony at the highest level. I just make sure they’re in good shape. I 25 make sure the energy around them is high, that they’re F.1.M. : But Luc, you never wear a watch! greeted, welcomed and appreciated, spreading good L.P. : (Laughs) I think watches are beautiful! I’m no energy so they come and they say, let’s do this all collector but I do own a few. But over the years the together! The conductor is humbly making sure that Only Watch family has grown and I feel like a father everyone’s happy and the music of the best quality. to this big family... so it’s like I don’t feel comfortable And when I say musicians I mean not just the watch choosing any of the children over another. In the end brands but the media, the partners, the people hosting I love them all equally, and since I can’t wear twenty the collections, the collectors, the team helping me... watches at once, I don’t wear any of them!
ONLY WATCH WORLD TOUR EDITION
From September 25 to November 9, collectors from the entire planet will have the opportunity to attend the collection previews, during the Onlywatch World Tour. The tour will start at the Monaco Yacht Show and will continue in other 9 cities in Europe, USA and Asia.
H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco introducing 2017's auction in Geneva.
MONACO: 25 to 28 September TOKYO: 23 to 24 October at Christie’s at the Monaco Yacht Show SINGAPORE: 25 to 26 October DUBAI: 1 to 3 October at Malmaison by the Hour Glass at Christie’s in association with Seddiqi HONG KONG: 28 to 29 October at Christie’s PARIS: 7 to 8 October at Christie’s TAIPEI: 30 to 31 October at Christie’s LONDON: 11 to 13 October at Christie’s GENEVA: 7 to 9 November NEW YORK: 16 to 17 October at Christie’s at Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues
35M 100% 52 Over 35 millions euros of funds collected, given research watch brands participating raised in 7 editions on Duchenne muscular distrophy in 2019 Only Watch auction 26
DAVID MARGASON VISION COMES FIRST
By Alice Gardner
David Margason is, in a word, an enigma. Heading up a project such as the Porto Montenegro development - a subtly opulent and paradisiacal new yachting hub - as well as many other incredible developments such as Blue Water and Centre Parcs, it would not be hard to imagine that there would be more ego than man. Nothing could be further than the truth.
Softly spoken with an air of quiet contentment, should you find yourself sitting next to him in a bar you would have no idea that he was at the helm of one of the most exciting projects in Montenegro’s history, let alone the yachting and leisure sector. At Force One we have followed closely the developments of the project over the past couple of years - exploring the investment opportunities as well as the incredible infrastructures they are building - yet a more fascinating picture has emerged from all of this;
I suppose my role is a bit like being a conductor. You don’t play the instruments and you didn’t write the music, but somehow you help a group of people that gets applause at the end of the day.
F.1.M. : On a yacht it is important to know and trust who here. There’s nothing more rewarding, whatever that is to your Captain is; you’re the Captain of Porto Montenegro you as an individual. To me, every minute gives you the yet little is known about you outside of a work context! opportunity to create something; it could be a relationship, Speaking to your colleagues, everyone is beguiled by or a building, or an event… It could be an atmosphere or a your work ethic. When I asked if they had any burning spirit between people in a room. Anything. If you end the questions they would like answered, something that day with something more than you started with then you’ve came up time and time again was – do you sleep? created something. I suppose that’s one of the reasons why D.M. : Sporadically! Although I’m not somebody who I don’t waste too much time sleeping! Every now and again I has ever slept very much I go through phases. I guess, may lie in until 08:30… But if you’re awake you might as well something that is very important to me is not wasting a be creating something! single second of what time you have – I really, really suffer if I feel like I’ve wasted a day. I don’t mean this in some grand F.1.M. : Would you say that prior to coming to Porto work sense, but in a life sense. I think that’s a really tragic Montenegro you enjoyed creative fulfilment? Or has thing to do. Relaxing and doing nothing for the day isn’t coming to a project that’s in its relative infancy allowed wasting a day if that’s something you decide to do, but just you to get stuck in with gaining a greater sense of wasting a day because you didn’t bother to think about creative fulfilment? what to do is almost embarrassing. D.M. : I suppose it goes back to why I decided to come when invited; I was 54 when that happened, so not F.1.M. : And have you always been like that? exactly young. I was installed in a very nice house in leafy D.M. : Yes. Why are people like that I don’t know. I am almost Hampshire after a life of working abroad and travelling, obsessed by a sense of creative fulfilment; something seeing my children every day, so why on earth would I that I think you will see from the work that we are doing decide to leave that? It started out with a very general 27
conversation with some people who I considered friends and are the main investors here, with whom I’ve had a relationship for 15 years, and it was very casual – at least on the surface of the conversation - about what they were hoping to do in and for the Balkan region.
Our investors are very conscious of what they create around their physical, hard investment, as there’s a soft investment too. I went home and spoke to my wife and said that I walked out of the room with an extraordinary list of things that needed to be done here, and what was appealing for me was that if I actually looked at all the things that I had done throughout my life, and probably not understanding why I was doing them at the time – I’m somebody who generally says yes and then figures out how – suddenly I came out to this meeting knowing why I’d done all of them, as almost everything I’d ever done came together and needed to be done as a single collective here.
I started with an exceptional foundation with an exceptional place that had been created, and the icing on the cake was when I came over and had I look I found that this place was populated with a people of a quality I’d never experienced before. So here I was with a great starting point, a phenomenal team, and a list of things that needed to be done which fit like a hand in a glove of all the things I’d ever done. And, I’m a sailor, so it was serendipity, it was ridiculous.
F.1.M. : It sounds like the complete opposite of a midlife crisis! A eureka moment! D.M. : Well I guess you could still call it one of those, I abandoned the 06:49 to Waterloo for a 06:30 buggy along the sea! Seriously though, it has had a huge impact on my family. Yes, I do FaceTime them every morning – which you can’t underestimate how this has changed the ability of people to work away from home and fulfil their creative ambitions.
© Zoran Radonjic 28
© Zoran Radonjic
F.1.M. : Does your family get to visit much? can’t turn the desert of Dubai into Dubai without having D.M. : As much as they possibly can. They love it here. But phenomenal vision and determination coupled with self- my kids are seriously studying at school and for me the control. I only have to say three words to them for every 300 justification for my wife and I in deciding to do this was – I have to say to everybody else to explain what I’m doing, and you’ll see it come across in some of our collateral – we and without that it would nearly be impossible to continue are great proponents of creating a life less ordinary. We what I’m doing. don’t want to allow ourselves to be pushed through life by whatever currents are guiding us necessarily, we want to do F.1.M. : I would say what you’re doing here is very things that are less ordinary. authentic… D.M. : I think luxury was the watch-word during the creation F.1.M. : I think it comes back to what you were saying at of Porto Montenegro, and certainly luxury is still an important the beginning about not wasting a single second. It would part, but it’s a by-product. Luxury has never had any one appear that you are embodying “a life less ordinary”… definition of course, it’s very individual. To me, the ultimate D.M. : You have to be a little bit careful about that as luxury is this idea that you’ve created something that you eventually you sort of become a bit bizarre in yourself and didn’t think you could create. If people can help you do to other people! Although I’m sure there are some people something that you are capable of, investing their time in you who don’t understand why I do what I do. I mean, I love to do that, that’s true and real luxury. what I do so in that respect I don’t think it’s any different to me going to play golf. F.1.M. : And the resulting emotions, which is something you definitely can’t buy F.1.M. : I remember asking you the last time we spoke D.M. : Luxury is a part of the soft infrastructure here for sure, about the level of pride you must feel at seeing – not and it’s definitely a very important component of what you just your plans – but your team’s plans come to fruition, promise people before they come here and then you had and even a year down the line you don’t appear as better be able to deliver it. Some days the coffee isn’t as enthusiastic as before, but more! I think you can definitely hot as other days, or the G&T isn’t as cold, but if the spirit see this in the new events that you’re putting on. of the place is right it’s consistent and you feel it when you You’re not just building a physical infrastructure but a walk the streets. They know if they’re in a place of contrived community infrastructure, a lifestyle. luxury and spirit, then this is the most important experience D.M. : This is the hardest part of the job and the hardest to deliver. Delivering a place that is at ease with itself makes part to achieve and the hardest part to communicate to the experience more luxurious in a less obvious sense, but people who aren’t here. You can show them photographs how do you bottle that? You can’t. I’m not responsible for of things that you’ve built but you can’t show them a creating that, it’s already in the DNA of the people who are photograph of the spirit you’ve created. So it’s very difficult here. I may have taken a few chains off to let it out a bit to communicate that. . I’m very lucky in that I have very more, but it’s true that if I had done all the same things in perceptive shareholders and a very perceptive board. You another location I wouldn’t have got the same result. 29
F.1.M. : Again it comes back to the point you made about your past experiences coming together, leading you to understand more about what you’re doing here, can you tell us what in particular has stood you in good stead to make Porto Montenegro such a success? D.M. : I’ve nearly always worked on the waterfront, whether it’s a river or the sea, probably because I’m fairly deeply connected to the water myself. I have a pretty good understanding of how the ocean and the water can be integrated with the land in a way that is fairly unique. I’ve also worked with Middle Eastern investors for the past 20 years; I have a clear picture of those investors and a good human relationship with them.
I’m an engineer fundamentally by background, so I am someone that sort of tries to rationalise most things, although these days as I get older I don’t allow my rationale side stifle my creative side, and that’s a change. A lot of people who have grown up as engineers can never be anything other than engineers, and ultimately they – for whatever reason – don’t have the courage, or allow themselves the luxury, of creating something truly innovative.
F.1.M. : It’s almost quite a dangerous combination! An engineer’s brain couple with creativity… D.M. : I’ve always thought it the perfect combination, although maybe that’s why I don’t sleep at night actually! Those things pull you in very different directions. I have moved more into the creative spectrum, but I cover that by making sure I have people I work with who are more comfortable in the control and engineering side of human nature.
© Mihael Djuricic If you want to do something bigger than your own capabilities you have to work with a team don’t you!
F.1.M. : Do you find yourself now having to be reigned back in now with your ideas and creativity? D.M. : I’m pretty self-policing, although I definitely push things out to a fairly wide angle in terms of exploring what’s possibly before bringing it back in towards a solution. I do believe that we needed to do that here, I do think that if we hadn’t dared to be different and allowed ourselves the luxury of creative experimentation here I can’t imagine that we could ever have reached full potential. . I’ve always don the creative stuff during the day and the disciplined stuff during the night. I spend a lot of my working time helping other people to be creative and achieve those things, which means I have to go home at night and start my own work doing the things that I would otherwise allow my whole day to be absorbed by.
F.1.M. : If you were to unleash your creative beast, with no one to hold you back – investors and money isn’t an issue – but you’ve got the whole of Porto Montenegro at your finger tips, what would be the first thing you did? D.M. : First of all I’d take some time out and learn to play an instrument! 30
F.1.M. : Which one? liberation, she’s become a totally different person. She’s 17 D.M. : Probably the piano. Over the years I’ve actually now, and has decided to join the Navy! She’s like me, she bought two and sold two. They always end up unplayed likes to experience all kinds of different things but also likes in the corner as I just don’t have the time. It’s one of the to have a few boundaries to lean up against some times. reasons why I would and am going to in answer to your And my son is hugely passionate about nature, he always question, focus on the Synchro development. It’s something wants to be in the mountains either foraging for food and that is fundamentally founded on the idea that as you go he’s very engaged with bushcraft and survival skills, and through life and the further you go through life, the more increasingly now on his mountain bike. the desire and even the "need" for creative fulfilment comes to everybody and therefore it’s something that people F.1.M. : So Montenegro is perfect then with the sea on one should be providing as a service. side, and the mountains on the other. D.M. : Absolutely. It’s great to spend time with them If we can get our Synchro development right then it’s the and see them. Partly I’m here to create a different life coming together of all the ingredients and the notion that experience for them and I think they find that highly people want to belong to a community that is creative valuable as I say to them I’m sorry for not always being and, not in a crass way, but a tangible way, and want there, but they understand and say it’s fine and come out their heart to beat a little faster a couple of days a week. as much as they can. And for myself, other than music You can do that in the gym of course but there are other which is something I dream about more than having any experiences that do that as well, and that’s what we’re skill in, I am a passionate sailor, it’s long passage sailing trying to create here. that I like. I love the system of 4 hours on 4 hours off for 20 days or so - maybe because I don’t sleep very much! I love F.1.M. : A final question: if you can imagine this, you have the idea of waking up at 2 in the morning and coming up a day off! How would you spend it in Porto Montenegro? on deck and taking over from somebody and sitting in the D.M. : With my wife and my children! My daughter would dark sailing far away from land, sometimes thinking about be out sailing as she’s a fantastic sailor. Sailing for her is what I will do there when I return to it..
www.portomontenegro.com
32
◄ Stuart Haygarth created the “TIDE” chandelier with beach plastic debris
GLAMOROUS GREEN IN THE DEEP BLUE SUSTAINABLE LUXURY MEETS SUPERYACHT INTERIORS
By Milena Cvijanovich
Is sustainable luxury an oxymoron? On the contrary, it is an exciting opportunity for us to bask in the pleasure that the finest things in life have to offer, while respecting the resources of our planet and giving back to those who make our gorgeous surroundings possible. No need to cringe at the buzzwords “Sustainable”, “Eco-friendly” or, worse yet “Environmental”, the principles of sustainability and luxury go hand-in-hand: the notion of Time, the pricelessness of Heritage, and the magic of Rarity. Both evoke creation, pleasure and emotion.
Saint-Exupéry once said “We do not inherit the earth from the delicate glassware glinting on a sumptuously laid our parents, we borrow it from our children”. Patek Philippe table, Sustainable Luxury finds will titillate the most would agree. So would the new and upcoming yacht- sophisticated of tastes. owning generations - the dynamic, committed Millennials and the casual, nomadic Gen Z’s. Their concern about the One of my faves is salmon skin or the exotic skin of the future of our mothership and its denizens has been shown Pirarucu of the Amazon, considered only a few years ago to influence heavily their choice of high-end purchases as a waste by-product of the fishing industry. There is towards respectful, environmentally innovative and ethical nothing fishy about today’s luxurious, velvety leathers, sources. tanned in a myriad of rich hues and offering a variety of seductive textures. Ermenegildo Zegna and Oscar Today we can sail away into the sunset knowing that there Metsavaht integrate this upcycled material with a flourish is no question of compromise in aesthetics, comfort and in their fashion pieces while BMW has crafted a custom function when choosing a sustainable interior, especially interior with a suede version. This stunning and sensual a demanding, richly detailed and exquisitely crafted fabric is now a prized option in sustainable textile finishes superyacht interior. From the mirror perfect finish of for yacht designers as with Design Unlimited and Atlantic lacquered walls to the soft caress of opulent bedding, Leathers in the striking Pink Gin VI interiors, and drastically from the dramatic glow of lamps and chandeliers, to improves the lives of struggling fishing villages. 33
▲ Nature Squared inlay of farmed mussel and gold mother of pearl shell
▲ Oyster Bamboo's handcraftsusing its recycled bespoke gold bamboo and sterling fishing silver rods
And from marine waste of another sort, impeccably executed, jaw-dropping pieces, made for contemporary superyacht furnishing, are born of the debris we hear so much of today - ocean plastic litter. Brodie Neill, recipient of numerous design awards, has dreamed up a table whose mesmerizing surface evokes the deep blue while exuding the total elegance of a design masterpiece. For the more daring, Stuart Haygarth, the ▲ Sumptuous suede finish of Atlantic Leathers salmon skins chou-chou of flotsam and jetsam, cosmetically ▼ Balinese farmed seashell and recycled sterling silver as tableware transfigures plastic objects into a dazzling, ethereal chandelier, as he charmingly puts it, "in the shape of the moon whose force created the tide that washed these items ashore.”
Nature Squared, whose expertise in transforming natural waste materials is undisputed, has made its mark in the yachting industry and most importantly in the lives of hundreds of families in the Philippines where founders Lay Koon Toon and Paul Hoeve have lovingly trained men and women over the past two decades to become brilliant masters in the Art of Upcycling. Magicians of dexterity, they 34
▲ "Ocean Terrazzo" , fragments of ocean plastic waste, give depth to Brodie Neill's Gyro table
▲ Amazonian Pirarucu fish skin design presented by Osklen at the New York fashion week
metamorphose seashells, egg shells, leaves, feathers and designed to each client’s requirements, are manufactured bone, among many other remnants, through an endless with only natural materials, including the casing of its range of colours and designs into well over 3000 exquisite springs, the process nearing zero waste. Savoir Beds surfaces to be customised to the wildest of tastes and craftsmen are acknowledged, long-standing virtuosos, fantasies, expressed as panelling, furniture, lighting, each one of whom is assigned a mattress and proudly bathroom fixtures, you name it. Nearly all their materials signs his finished, numbered piece, giving it a near lifetime are IMO certified to meet the stringent flammability warranty. If that is not the epitome of sustainability compliance required for the largest private yachts, and for celebrating luxury, what is? any designer, digging around in the opulent set of choices is like being in the proverbial candy store, where leftover The dazzling list of materials, objects and lighting scraps have become pure glamour. emerging from this new design ethos is endless, and I’d love to tell you more, but, my Oyster Bamboo fishing rod And what is life on a yacht without the perfect bed to in hand, it is time for me, as Mark Twain put it, to Catch the rock its guest to sleep, accompanied by the soft lullaby Trade Winds in my Sails...Explore, Dream and Discover... of the waves? Savoir Beds, a landmark in luxury living, yet another captivating find in the brave new world of is a beacon of sustainability. Its mattresses, custom- Sustainable Luxury.
Milena Cvijanovich Serbo-Swiss Monaco-based designer Milena Cvijanovich owns an interior architecture firm and sustainable luxury consultancy. Milena has worked with luxury brands such as Blancpain and numerous high net worth private clients. With a Masters in Architecture from Carnegie Mellon University and inspired by her physicist father, one of the first inventors of the solar panel, Milena has taught sustainable luxury at European MBA programs. She is involved in several high-end projects incorporating the new trend of fusing sustainability with the world of luxury and combining heritage conservation, environmental protection and social entrepreneurship with interesting investment opportunities. www.milenacdesigns.com 35 PARTNERSHIP 36
Sanlorenzo SD92
HOME & YACHT SAME OWNER, SAME VISION
By Manuela Schinaia
In terms of interior design, very often the owners of yachts look for the same aesthetic and functional references already present in their own homes. We’re talking with Karine Foubet, from a privileged standpoint: her showroom on La Croisette.
Karine Foubet has interior design in her DNA: a passion for the success of an interior design project ". handed down to her by her parents, and that she has These are not simply aesthetic choices, and been able to transform into something very important. functionality is indeed a fundamental element when Her boutique "B KA" is the reference point in Cannes starting out on a new design. and the entire Côte d'Azur for interior design on apartments, villas and, ça va sans dire, yachts. The form, the choice of materials, the practicality of managing the spaces also play a significant role in the "Our work demands great personal sensitivity. We need definition of a design. And if this aspect is important to get in tune with our clients, understand the spirit with when working on an apartment, a villa or a chalet, you which a person, or very often a couple, approaches the can well imagine how much more important it is when design choices for their space. All this is of vital importance talking about a yacht: 37
Sanlorenzo SD92
© Francesco Ferri
Feadship 115
Sanlorenzo SD92
"The interiors of a yacht, regardless of its size, demand a highly specific approach. Moreover, in human terms, the same person who is easily advised when it comes to the décor of a house, tends to be far more inflexible when it comes to that of his yacht: the yacht is a pleasure, it has to meet all of his desires ".
So the choice of the brand is fundamental. "Poliform is the perfect partner for yacht interiors, and their recent design on a Sanlorenzo SD92 is the perfect demonstration". The design of the yacht is inspired on the great cruise yachts of the ‘thirties and ‘forties, but the interior fits perfectly with the aesthetic and functional canons of our times. This project shows the perfect marriage of design and performance, confirming the indissoluble bond between home and yacht, between the domestic scene and the yachting world, combining the two Poliform Cannes worlds to create stylish innovations. 94, La Croisette - Cannes www.poliform-cannes.fr Karine Foubet has also recently completed a +33 (0)4 93 69 17 73 new interior design project for a Feadship 115. [email protected] ADV
38 RENOVATIONREVOLUTION
The yachting industry is beginning, perhaps a little too slowly, to grasp the importance of certain environmental issues. Unfortunately, while appeals to the environmental sensitivity of yacht owners are of little effect, we know that the key to reducing pollution lies in new ideas and, what a surprise.... in the economic advantages of certain choices.
In a previous article we dealt with a “sustainable design”, F.1.M. : Bruno, seems too good to be true. Can you tell us offering tangible proof that it’s possible to make a something about the procedure? range of prized items and furnishings using recycled B.A. : First and foremost it’s important you know materials. In this article we meet with Bruno Arish, an something about my professional background: I’ve entrepreneur in the yacht painting and refurbishment been involved in the yachting world for around twelve sector, who has developed a patented procedure years, selling and chartering yachts. Right at the start for restoring painted surfaces that declares not only of my career in this sector – it was 2009 – we had to to reduce refurbishing costs by at least 60%, but to face the world economic crisis, which obviously had significantly reduce the times necessary and simplify profound effects on the nautical sector, especially the many of the logistical aspects. All with the greatest small to medium size yachts segment: boats weren’t respect for the environment. being repainted due to the extremely high costs, so 39
used yachts were being put up for sale not exactly in waterline, the yacht doesn’t even need to be dry- their best condition. berthed, our people can work directly on-site, then you begin to see how the savings for the owner are F.1.M. : So it was a proper market demand that led you to something of a revolution. begin your research? B.A. : Precisely. I put all my time and energy into F.1.M. : What about the environmental impact? experimenting with various different renovation, B.A. : Over and above the drastic reduction in working cleaning and polishing procedures. time, which automatically implies reductions in It was pretty empirical research that led to the definition process waste and energy consumption in general, of the ALSHIMYSWISS standard, my exclusive patent, ALSHIMYSWISS is a procedure that uses completely which through 16 strictly standardised steps allows biodegradable components, in compliance with the us to obtain, in the case of the external paintwork of a European law on the protection of the environment: no yacht for example, a finish aesthetically and functionally Teflon, no ceramide, and no silicone! as new, which we can guarantee for two years. The treatment can also be applied to marble and glass surfaces, without producing dust. F.1.M. : What are the tangible advantages of the ALSHIMYSWISS treatment? F.1.M. : What kind of yachts have you treated so far? B.A. : In concrete terms, result for result the treatment B.A. : From Perinis, to Sunseekers, Sanlorenzos, and offers significant savings. Franchinis... we’ve got a long list of testimonials... You can expect to have to repaint a newly-painted yacht about every five years. We guarantee the ALSHIMYSWISS F.1.M. : So, back to the first question: seems too good to for two years. That is a shorter guarantee, agreed, but be true... the cost can be up to 70% lower! B.A. : For questions like that our people are always There are also significant savings in terms of the time available to do a free test on a portion of the surface the yacht is out of the water, up to 80%. you need to treat, then see for yourself how we also If we add the fact that for treating surfaces above the solve problems of bleaching and porosity!
Alshimy Swiss Rue Neufchatel 29 1201 Genève +33 (0) 623 006 623 [email protected] www.alshimyswiss.com 40
Brigitte Bardot and Gunther Sachs The Grimaldi family
LA DOLCE VITA ON THE WATERS OF MONTECARLO By Alberto Corrado
Riva motorboats are symbolic of luxury and elegance, style and performance. Though inspired on the American runabout, even today they have a unique style, capable of exalting the beauty of the materials made the more precious by scintillating chromework, and earning the admiration of all, whether in port or at sea.
“Getting back into port with the boat, looking at millions of well into the post-war years when Carlo Riva found what stars and feeling like a millionaire but without a penny...”. it took to decline the myth of speed and motor racing in Sounds like the voice of Carlo Riva, visionary, pioneer, a nautical key, and started building luxury motorboats engineer always one step ahead, whose genius gave life to in mahogany, which immediately became the object of some of the world’s most beautiful vessels, each of which a desire of royalty, cinema stars and sports champions. timeless icon. This is the story that begins in a storm. Iseo Lake, 1842: In November 1962 his fervent imagination created a legend: Pietro Riva, young shipwright from Laglio accomplishes its name, Aquarama (no “c” please!), his true masterpiece. A a miracle, fixing many of the local fishermen’s boats motorboat that marked the design of an era, with is sinuous, damaged by a violent storm. sensual form, hull in polished mahogany, the aft sundeck That was how the Sarnico shipyard came to be. It’s a story with mattresses on the engine hatches (General Motors or that continues with all the classic Italian pioneering spirit Chrysler, in marine guise) and the top. 41
Anita Ekberg
Monaco Boat Service
Its name is a play on the word Cinerama, the curved screen Mediterranean, meeting up in all the most exclusive format cinema very reminiscent of the shape of the boat’s places. windscreen. The prototype was named Lipicar no.1, owned They were piloted by the Kings of Saudi Arabia and by engineer Carlo himself, acronym of his three daughters’ Morocco, Hussein of Jordan and the Grimaldi princes, the initials, and for its baptism at sea it had a young test-driver, Tritone was Rainer of Monaco’s favourite, as well as the Giovanni Agnelli. Shah of Persia’s and billionaires like the Aga Khan, Howard It cost 10 million 800 thousand Lira and was the largest, Hughes, Onassis and Kashandoggi. Then actors and with its 8.02 metre length, of an exceptional fleet. The actresses: from Sophia Loren to Anita Ekberg, who wanted Ariston, with its Alfa engines; the Corsarino, the Sebino, one with zebra upholstery, and Brigitte Bardot who the Tritone, the Florida. Then the Junior and Rudy. But the bought three just to spite Roger Vadim. The list goes on. most famous by far remains the Aquarama: launched with Gunter Sachs, Richard Burton and Sean Connery, Jean Paul the slogan ”Sun, sea and joie de vivre”, it became the stage Belmondo and Peter Sellers, and later George Clooney. of the Dolce Vita, and the icon of the Côte d'Azur in the Even the princliest of princes, Antonio De Curtis, aka Totò, fabulous ‘Sixties. couldn’t resist its fascination. All proudly immortalised at the helm of one of those Those years perhaps would have been a little less superbly crafted vessels that combine precious woods and fabulous without those motorboats darting around the cutting-edge technology. 42
The last Aquarama Special, number 784, was built in 1966. a State concession to build a tourist port (the Carlo Riva in But Carlo Riva had already sold the shipyard - established Rapallo), to understand the importance of customer service in 1842 by builder Pietro Riva, who passed it on to his (the debut of the boat service network in Gardone Riviera, son Ernesto, then Serafino and finally Carlo in the fifties then the one in Montecarlo, for which a tunnel was excavated with partner Gino Gervasoni - to the American Whittaker using dynamite under the Rocca for dry berthing). And the company. Carlo sold in 1969, and left the shipyard in first to have the courage to build luxury boats in an Italy still 1971. But with neither heart nor mind. rebuilding itself after the war. A true pioneer ”.
“I used to go and ask his advice for every single project. Every A balanced synthesis of elegance and innovation, time I lift the veil on a new model, my thoughts go out to him” capable of marking new milestones in the history of affirms a somewhat emotional Alberto Galassi, CEO of the international nautical design. The spirit of the young Ferretti Group that has owned the Riva brand since 2000. boat builder Pietro Riva has been handed down Galassi talks of the engineer as friend, maestro, nautical unaltered. Riva still builds boats like no-one else can, genius. Lucid and always forward-thinking, right to the to once again see the stars shimmering in the placid end. “He was the first to introduce glass fibre in Italy, to obtain waters of the Principality.
Sofia Loren in Venice
Carlo Riva and H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco
www.riva-yacht.com
Peter Sellers 43
AQUARIVA SUPER @ HOTEL DU CAP-EDEN-ROC
The timeless class of Riva motorboats just keeps on moments with family or friends, or even just use the boat seducing the clients of the world’s most prestigious for a romantic aperitif around sunset. hotels. Absolute icon of the "Bella Vita", in this case à la française, the Eden-Roc offers a splendid tribute to a legendary destination, inspiration of so many artists, "The Cap-Eden-Roc Hotel has a long-standing association writers and cinema stars and other celebrities, many with Riva Yachts that goes back to when the now legendary of whom have already enjoyed the Aquariva’s spiritual Aquarama was launched. Today we open a new chapter predecessor, the legendary Aquarama. in this story with our own Aquariva Super Eden-Roc. Every detail of this absolutely stunning boat is infused with the The Riva Aquariva Super, designed for the hotel Cap- style of our own luxurious hotel, and I am very proud to be Eden-Roc at the historic Riva boatyard on Lake Iseo, will able to offer this very special service to our guests here". be moored at the hotel for exclusive use by its guests, offering exceptional cruises toward some the most Philippe Perd beautiful sites in the region. By day they can visit Saint- Managing Director at Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc Tropez, Cannes and the Lerins islands, for unforgettable Chief Project Development Officer Oetker Collection 44
Paula Cademartori
HERITAGE AND MODERNITY
By Alberto Corrado
Classic items for plays on fabrics and volumes, giving voice to the need to leave the mark of a new aesthetic made of lightness and sensuality.
A new horizon. With roots sunk in tradition but always with an eye to the future, the paradox of the Prefall collections 2019 reflects the identity of every single Maison, with its intrinsic dualism of reverence and revolution.
The sensual, androgynous aesthetic is clear in the lean outwear and suits made with men’s fabrics with warps illuminated by sequins, while the pants, in weightless Emilio Pucci Giorgio Armani materials, slide fluid to create their own exclusive code.
The presence of black is strongly felt in the colour pallet, nuanced in greys and neutral tones “always softened with touches of pink” in shades like poudre, powder pink and nude.
Accessories take on a central role, like the dresses, often set together in surprising combinations of form and dimensions.
An aesthetic made of stylistic and cultural contaminations, of lightness and dynamism, irreverence and sensuality, where the language of the past is the key to interpreting the present. With glam spirit and an urban touch.
Salvatore Ferragamo 45
Marni
Alanui
Philipp Plein
Giorgio Armani Ermanno Scervino
Blazé Milano
Loewe 46
DESTINATION AU DÉPART DE PARIS By Alberto Corrado
The iconic French trunk-maker, established in 1834, put in persepctive with our times and our lifestyles, for a relaunch in grand style.
Change perspective, get into the game and breathe, The presentation at the Fairs was a narration on three scrutinising your horizons. levels, transforming into a tribute to the origins of the brand, but also represents something of a payback for Get a precise point of view, built on couture and the the closure of the company back in 1976. one-of-a-kind approach. In the words of DimoreStudio, “Au Départ has been This is the departure point for the new adventure of the serving men and women for grand part of the eighteen venerable French luggage maker Au Départ, established and nineteen-hundreds, in a dimension inclusive and in 1834 and this year reborn at the Milan International appreciated right from the outset, and for this we’ve Furniture Fair from the magnificent complicity of chosen six period trunks and translated them into a new Dimore Studio, Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran. language, where the terms of interpretation multiply 47
and intertwine in a play of surprising, cultured references.”
Au Départ was originally a trunk-maker: the name came from the location of the first shop, right in front of Paris’ Gare du Nord, which was inaugurated just a year later.
The shop offered its customers a new concept of luxury, made of refinement and elegance, but modernity and technology as well. And a touch of humour. Turning “custom orders” into a new standard, Au Départ builds trunks to meet any kind of demand, even the most extravagant. Always with impeccable formal quality. 48
In 1871 the company was taken over by brothers Ernest With this Heritage, this creative collision-become- and Paul Bertin, who just three years later, in 1874, mantra extending to our times, DimoreStudio opened a second shop in Avenue de l'Opéra, the place transposes details and design concepts into a simple that was rapidly becoming the epicentre of Parisian play on visions, in a narrative that fragments, resumes elegance, with its cafes and new department stores and reaches new depths, redesigning the confines destined to become legend. of travel and its accessories, far from the stereotypes and old containers, that take on a new, contemporary And at the centre of it all, the monumental Palais lifestyle, in which mobility is a statement of fact. Garnier, triumphantly inaugurated the next year. Thanks to a series of inventions and patents (for trunk In this way we manage to acquire on one hand manufacture and the perfect waterproofing of the tradition, with all of its interior renewals, and on the leather) business was going from strength to strength. other innovation, with its implicit constants; classicism on one side, modernism on the other. We have to bear The apex of success came with the advent of the roaring in mind that contemporary society needs this kind of ‘twenties, when Au Départ was synonym of luxury dialogue, insomuch as it works, at least since the birth and style, and artist Yan Bernard Dyl was doing the of fashion, to extend it to all fields of art, in an infinite advertising. An image that still makes an impression for variety of forms; and if it explodes today into fashion or its modernity: the actual logo of the Maison is inspired design, it’s because fashion, too, is an art, on a par with precisely on the one designed by Dyl. literature, painting and music. 49
Above all, the match between Au Départ and the same was as a novel, a film or a piece of music. Dimorestudio teaches and confirms: today, thanks Onto Au Départ’s trunks and Dimorestudio’s designs to formidable developments in distribution systems, we project the entire phenomenon of belief, prejudice, fashion is not simply what people purchase or pick for sentiment and resistance, in short, all the history of the homes; it’s also what people read and watch: the ourselves that is, in perhaps too simple words – the inventions of our designers delight or irritate exactly in taste of refined elegance. NAUTICAL WORKS JACQUES DEVAULX
By Keith Francis
In the words of John Edward Masefield: All I need is a tall ship and a star to guide her by… And as early cartographers were so used to printing on faraway, uncharted corners of their maps: here be dragons….
So all I need is a tall ship and maybe a reliable chart! As a mariner myself I fully appreciate the beauty of a Things that we now, with GPS and all the rest, have good chart. There is no feeling like being on the high truly lost. Lost our bearings. This beautiful publication seas at night with only the horizon and a few stars by TASCHEN books in a great sense brings us back to (if you’re lucky), a compass and, most important, a a forgotten reality. In this absurd epoch of flat-earth BEARING to go by. And the chart, upon which I plot my societies, moon landing deniers and a whole range course over this dark expanse of open water, hoping of alternative conspiracy theorists and perceptions of that the chart is accurate and my bearing true. reality, this book offers us the coordinates of where, and perhaps what we were, a young, explorative species Astrolabes, globes and charts. Alchemy and astrology. trying to understand the confines of its existence. In All expression of the human desire to understand its terms of location. A Chart. You are here. This is where we origins and reach out beyond them. To boldly go where are. This is where we know we can go. no man has gone before, as Gene Roddenberry said in 51
that iconic introduction to star trek.
But without these charts, and the brave men who bore the fear of the unknown as they sailed toward uncharted space, we would never have left home. Jacques Devaulx - Nautical Works We may laugh at their primitive perception of the world they lived in those mysterious times, when magic was still Hardcover, 27.6 x 39.5 cm, 264 pages - € 100 punishable by the stake, but I feel they knew life better than we do now. Multilingual Edition: English, French, German
Beware the dragons. www.taschen.com Contact Peter Walford - Partner / [email protected]
www.maitlandgroup.com © shutterstock.com / rawf8 / shutterstock.com ©
TAXATION IN THE MODERN ERA By Peter Walford, Partner, Maitland
In a world of increasing tax transparency and disclosure, it is important to try and retain some perspective. Tax regula- tion has come a very long way over the past century but are we in fact taking matters too far?
In the past, the scope for international tax avoidance and Foreign Account Tax Compliance Act (FATCA), to combat evasion was generally limited by exchange controls in place the use by US taxpayers of foreign banks to hide assets and in most developed countries and these exchange controls taxable income from the taxman, the OECD developed persisted until well after the Second World War, but as they a comprehensive system of automatic exchange of tax were gradually abolished, the mobility of capital obviously information, known as the Common Reporting Standard increased, and with it the scope for international tax planning (CRS), to which much of the world (but not the USA) has and international tax evasion. subscribed. The EU was quick to adopt CRS but has now taken it beyond the basic - and to most people uncontroversial - The problem for tax collectors was that secrecy was always crime of tax evasion to embrace the more elusive sphere of at the heart of regimes set up in jurisdictions such as tax avoidance. Liechtenstein and Panama and became a hallmark of other countries that wanted to develop a similar financial sector. It should be understood that these initiatives are all aimed Panama companies would typically issue bearer shares, at international arrangements, such as an American with making ownership impossible to pin down. This was not just a Swiss bank account or a Bermuda trust with UK resident an issue of tax collection. It became obvious that the secrecy beneficiaries. It does not matter that the American has afforded by many tax havens also attracted drug dealers and disclosed his Swiss bank account to the US Internal Revenue financiers of terrorism and so since the 1980s there has been Service and pays US tax on the income and gains it generates, a consensus among governments that concerted efforts or that the UK resident beneficiaries pay tax on their receipt needed to be taken to eliminate the problem. of trust income or gains. The reporting requirements must be The Financial Action Task Force was established by the G7 followed in any event. countries in 1989, to develop policies to combat money This of course leads to extra costs and many Americans, laundering. Tax evasion gradually became a money living in Europe and discharging all their tax obligations, laundering offence, but separate international initiatives to have had difficulty in finding a local bank willing to take combat tax evasion have also been taken, notably by the on the extra reporting burden that having an American Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development customer involves. Although we are always told that we (OECD) and the European Union. live in an era of globalisation and the increase in world trade and the movement of people it involves is all for AN ACCELERATED PACE the greater good, when it comes to tax matters the global citizen must expect an extra burden of compliance, if he The pace of these initiatives has accelerated in recent happens to have financial arrangements beyond the scope years. On the back of the American initiative, known as the of his country of residence. 53
The EU has a particular problem in this area. The single if, under the legislation of the relevant member state, it is market was designed to increase economic efficiency and effective in achieving the tax advantage that is sought. So thus enhance economic growth. It embraced fundamental far, this is all relatively uncontroversial, at least in today’s freedoms, considered necessary to establish a true single climate. If tax professionals deliberately develop schemes to market, including the freedom of an EU business to establish exploit arbitrage opportunities between tax systems and thus itself in any other EU member state and the freedom to move contribute to a loss of tax revenue, they are unlikely to get capital throughout the member states. The problem is that much sympathy from the man in the street. Those who play member states have jealously guarded their competence with fire should not complain if they get burnt. over direct taxation. Although the EU seeks to eliminate what it considers to be unfair tax competition, on the basis that IS THIS GOING TOO FAR? it can amount to illegal state aid, the fact remains that tax rates and the rules for determining the tax base are fixed by However, the Directive goes further and might well apply individual member states, not by the EU. to arrangements that have no tax planning motive. This is because some arrangements do not need to have a tax Differences in tax systems give rise to scope for international avoidance purpose, to be caught up in the tentacles of the tax planning, or what the EU calls aggressive tax planning. As Directive. The Directive in particular requires disclosure of stated in the preamble to EU Directive 2018/822 of 25 May any steps taken to escape from the automatic tax reporting 2018 (“the Directive”): “Member States find it increasingly obligations mentioned above. An individual based in difficult to protect their national tax bases from erosion the EU might have a bank account in a country that has as tax-planning structures have evolved to be particularly subscribed to the CRS system. He might, for perfectly sophisticated and often take advantage of the increased innocent reasons, want to shift that money to a bank account mobility of both capital and persons within the internal in the USA. He has on the face of it incurred an obligation to market.” Accordingly this Directive establishes a framework disclose. There is also an obligation to disclose, regardless whereby cross-border tax planning arrangements have to be of motive or purpose, arrangements involving a “non- disclosed to the relevant tax authorities. transparent” company established in a jurisdiction other than the jurisdiction of residence of the beneficial owners, unless the company carries on a substantive economic Although the EU seeks to eliminate activity, supported by adequate staff, equipment, assets what it considers to be unfair tax and premises. Here what appears to be targeted is the old-fashioned arrangement involving a Panama or similar competition, on the basis that it can company, mentioned above, but its scope appears to be amount to illegal state aid, the fact much wider. remains that tax rates and the rules for determining the tax base are For example, an individual might want to buy a yacht. He might be advised to register the yacht in Malta, which has an fixed by individual member states, efficient yacht registry. He might well be told that the best not by the EU. way to deal with it is to incorporate a Malta company, to own and manage the yacht. The Malta service providers might also offer Malta resident directors and nominee shareholders. THE SCOPE OF THE DIRECTIVE He might not have a single tax thought in his mind. He might live outside the EU and not be concerned in any way with The primary objective of the Directive is to crack down tax in the EU. Nonetheless, there is arguably an obligation to on pre-packaged schemes, often devised by accountants disclose, falling in the first instance on the Malta intermediary or other taxation professionals, designed for widespread who sets up the company. marketing to their clients. In this respect the Directive follows the UK Disclosure of Tax Avoidance Schemes legislation that And so whether we like it or not, we live in a brave new has been in place for some years. However, the Directive world of full transparency and disclosure, with an obligation goes further. It also seeks to oblige disclosure of traditional to disclose even in circumstances where tax has neither tax planning techniques, such as conversion of income been evaded nor avoided. Let us hope that there is a close into capital, which have often, in more recent times, been correlation between the gigabytes of information now and nullified by specific anti-avoidance legislation or by the in the future flooding the chancelleries of Europe and the application of a general principle that steps taken purely for amount of extra tax consequently payable. the purpose of tax avoidance are to be ignored, in assessing the arrangement to tax.
Such an arrangement will trigger the obligation to disclose, And so whether we like it or not, if it can be established that the main benefit or one of the we live in a brave new world of full main benefits a person may reasonably expect to derive transparency and disclosure, with from it is a tax advantage. The obligation to disclose applies not only to the taxpayer himself but also to intermediaries an obligation to disclose even in involved with the arrangement. Failure to disclose will trigger circumstances where tax has neither penalties, even if, on the face of it, it is not implemented or been evaded nor avoided. 54
COURTLY LOVE
By Laura Canepa - www.theducker.com
“Romeo & Juliet”, the new collection by Van Cleef & Arpels, is the perfect synthesis of art and culture bound by beauty. Beauty expressed in high jewellery through a range of arts, from English literature to Renaissance Italy.
Romeo & Juliet Romeo & Juliet brooch in white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, black lacquer, rubies, coloured sapphires, spessartine garnet, lapis lazuli, white and yellow diamonds 55
www.vancleefarpels.com
When talking of love, it may seem a little obvious to quote Shakespeare. On the contrary, in these our times we have a burning need to reclaim something of the beauty of the classics. Today there’s a fundamental need to pause and reflect on Beauty and its values. Values that recent generations, whether for haste or indolence, seem to have forgotten. Or perhaps, even worse, don’t even know. So good on anyone who takes a glance into the past to be seduced by its emotion; and above all who manages to move an intense dialogue between disciplines of excellence. So it should come as no surprise if a new ballet, conceived by French choreographer Benjamin Millepied, with whom Van Cleef & Arpels has recently been working, has been the inspiration for the eponymous Romeo & Juliet collection, made up of 100 surprising, unique pieces.
The collection develops like an articulate vocabulary, constructed according to the canons Van Cleef and Arpels always privilege: exceptional stones and cuts, sublime settings, (the Serti Mystérieux™ knows no rival), great talent instilling drops of poetry in creations with the purpose of being worn as jewellery. The characteristic stones of this year merit an ovation, and among them, emeralds dominate many of the creations with exceptional depth Romeo & Juliet of colour. An example? The Colombian Lover’s Path bracelet in white gold, yellow gold, 3 emerald-cut emeralds, cabochon-cut emerald, the leading stone of respectively 14.17, 13.71 and 11.90 carats the Hope necklace, with its 43.43 carats of (Colombian), diamonds. pure magnetism that captures the gaze. 56
Romeo & Juliet Reticella Necklace with fixed white gold pendant, two type 2A DFL teardrop diamonds of 6.60 and 6.31 carats.
The Lover’s Path bracelet also takes on the green colour of hope, created by a trio of Colombian square-cut emeralds, (14.47, 13.71, 11,90 carats each), and likewise the Ceremony necklace. The Ceremony bears 14 emerald-cut Zambian emeralds (for a total of ca. 42 carats), selected by the Maison over the course of the years. The result achieved is a perfect amalgamation of colour, purity and crystallisation, generating such an intense green in perfect harmony with the delightful violet/mauve of the sapphires, tsavorite garnets and diamonds. 57
Romeo & Juliet Transformable Sautoir Belfiore in white gold, 14 oval and cushion-cut diamonds for 55.05 carats (Sri Lanka, Madagascar), turquoise sapphires, diamonds.
Alongside the green and the mauve, as emblematic of the rival houses the colour concept of Romeo & Juliet choses the red of the Capulets and the blue of the Montagues. Rubies, sapphires and lapis lazuli explore the infinite facets of the collection, a sentimental theme always among the preferred inspirations of the Maison, not just for its jewellery but for its universe of watches as well. Symbols of this being the numerous editions of the Complications Poétiques with delightful romantic scenes on the quadrants. Graceful, ethereal but extremely concrete in the mechanical complications that animate them. An allegory of love, as concrete and tangible as created by fantasy and the fruit of impalpable feelings. A quality shared by Van Cleef & Arpels’ Romeo & Juliet jewellery expressed in two grand themes, the figurative and the abstract. 58
Romeo & Juliet Fiore bracelet in white gold, two teardrop-cut aquamarines of 50.87 carats, sapphires, emeralds, black spinels, diamonds.
Romeo & Juliet Night or Day brooch in rose gold, yellow gold, white gold, rubies, sapphires, lapis lazuli, dianonds.
Exploring the atmospheres of Renaissance Italy, the tastes and fashions of Juliet’s day in a precious the collection brings the styles of the epoch back key. In the case, too the piece is transformable: the in vogue and enhancing certain peculiarities of two teardrop diamonds (6.60 and 6.31 carats, type 2A, Renaissance jewellery. The material contrast between colour D and purity FL) can be worn as earrings. And the cabochon of semiprecious and the facets of the beautiful Italy couldn’t possibly be lacking among the precious stones relive in the Sautoir Belfiore through echoes of the past, cultural references and romanticism, the skilful arrangement of round calibrated diamonds in Verona itself, its architecture forming the backdrop and coloured sapphires, oval and cushion-cut. The to the happenings of the two lovers and their families, Reticella Necklace is an ode to lace collars and ruffs. The celebrating courtly love in an eternal ode to beauty. “Mains d'or”, literally, the golden hands of the Maison’s And whispering between the gems and poetry: celebrated masters of the art of jewellery, have revisited “Never stop dreaming!” 59
Romeo & Juliet Verona necklace in white gold, one sapphire cut emerald of 23.86 carats (Burma), sapphires, and diamonds. The necklace is transformable, the centre part can be worn as a brooch. 60
THE DESERT ROSE By Nicholas Reds
When you want to lose yourself, take your bearings from a dune; when you think you’ve lost your coordinates you encounter a powerful SUV; when dazzled by the light you crouch by a rock; you almost always feel the sea nearby and never the feeling of emptiness in the desert of Qatar.
The dunes often veil surprising treasures. Like the Desert Rose, a sedimentary rock that that takes on ever-different forms, unexpected and ephemeral as the gust of wind that constantly change the physiognomy of this space, at the same time physical place and place of the spirit.
It was indeed the desert rose that inspired Archistar Jean Nouvel's design for the National Museum of Qatar, inaugurated on the 28th of March in the capital of this tiny Arab state.
The Museum is heir of the previous Qatar National Museum, founded in 1975 by Emir Khalifa bin Hamad Al Thani to recount the history and culture of his country. nmoq.org.qa 61
© Iwan Baan
Extending over 52,000 square metres, the museum centre, shops, a restaurant, botanical gardens, and structure consists of overlapping disc-shaped forms artificial lagoon, a children's playground and many other making up and architectural composition in the form of a amenities. ellipse that extends for around 350 metres. The disks are of different sizes, projecting to provide the necessary shade. The shops, bookshop and children's shop are in an incredible "canyon" lined in wood and designed by the The new complex also comprises the Royal Palace of Australian Koichi Takada Architects studio, inspired on Sheikh Abdullah bin Jassim Al Thani, a historic early- the celebrated Dahl Al Misfir (Cavern of Light) situated in twentieth century building now fully restored. central Qatar. Creating a dialogue between natural forms and the architecture of Nouvel's building, the cavern In addition to the exhibition spaces, the museum was realised using 40,000 elements in oak shaped and complex houses a 220 seat auditorium, a research assembled on-site by an Italian company. 62
© Danica O. Kus
© Martin Argyroglo
THE PERMANENT EXHIBITION
The permanent exhibition unravels along a path one “The building I designed needed to reflect these three and a half kilometres long, winding through eleven different stories. The first, which covers a long period, is the interconnected galleries presenting the history of Qatar story of the peninsula and its inhabitants. (through more than 8,000 exhibits - from archaeological The second is an exploration of the coastal and desert finds to works of art, fabrics, jewellery and historic lifestyles as well as the pearling industry, and third covers documents, with many interactive installations and the spectacular acceleration that gave the kingdom - in original film footage. just a few decades - the power and prosperity we associate with it today... The exhibition is subdivided into three main theme areas: The desert rose, a flower-like aggregate of mineral ‘The Origins, ‘Life in Qatar’ and ‘The Modern History of crystals occurring only in arid coastal regions, is the first Qatar – that offer chronological narration of the country's architectural structure that nature itself creates, through history from prehistory to the present day, pausing in wind, sea spray and sand acting together over millennia. particular on natural history, seafaring traditions, the It’s surprisingly complex and poetic.” artistic heritage, the post-war industrial boom and future development programmes. Jean Nouvel 63
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© Joe Chua Agdeppa
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HOW TO GET THERE QATAR AIRWAYS
Qatar Airways’ Airbus A350-900 touched down in Nice for the Philippines, Malta, Izmir in Turkey and Mogadishu in the very first time on the 31st of March 2019. Somalia. The state carrier of Qatar will now operate its five weekly flights between its Doha hub and Nice with this new In February 2019, Qatar Airways also announced the generation aircraft. Qatar Airways becomes the first airline launch of the A350-1000 on one of the three daily flights to operate the A350-900 to Nice Airport. operated by the airline between Paris and Doha. As of 1st of August 2019, the newest aircraft from Airbus Industry will The QR53 flight take off from Doha at 08:50 and arrive in replace the Boeing 777-300ER on the latest Qatar Airways Nice at 13.35. The Outbound flight from Nice departs at daily frequency. The first two daily rotations continue to be 16:15 and arrives in Doha at 23.05. operated by an A380. This aircraft is part of Qatar Airways’ current fleet of 30 A350-900s, a new generation of efficient aircraft which the The A350-1000 is at the forefront of technology. Through airline pioneered the use of in 2014. the use of composite materials, this aircraft reduces its impact on the environment while inside the cabin, LED Qatar Airways is strengthening its Nice-Doha service, lighting helps reduce the effects of jet lag by simulating which opened in July 2017 with five weekly flights with the natural light of sunrise and sunset. the A350-900 replacing the previous A319 aircraft on the route, increasing passenger capacity from 110 to 283 seats. The A350-1000 is equipped with 327 seats divided into two cabins: 46 Qsuite Business Class seats and 281 extra This new-generation aircraft offering a higher level of wide 18'' seats in Economy Class. Business travelers will be comfort gives passengers an enhanced travel experience able to (re)discover the Qsuite: the first cabin in the world thanks to its improved air cabin pressure and humidity and to be fully transformable and flexible. This unique suite, more spacious and quieter cabins split into two-classes patented by Qatar Airways, is equipped with the first seat with 36 seats in Business Class and 247 seats in Economy in the aviation sector that can deploy as a double bed. Class. Passengers will appreciate the ailrine’s high-end services including the Oryx entertainment system offering Qsuite, a patented Qatar Airways product, features the up to 4,000 options and optimal connectivity through the industry’s first-ever double bed in Business Class, as well on-board Wi-Fi and GSM networks. as privacy panels that stow away, allowing passengers in adjoining seats to create their own private room, a first of From Nice, passengers benefit from optimal connections, its kind in the industry. via Doha, to a wealth of destinations in the Middle East, the Asia-Pacific region, Africa and North America. Qatar Qatar Airways was the first Gulf carrier to join global airline Airways serves more than 160 business and leisure alliance oneworld, enabling its passengers to benefit from destinations including seven new services still to open more than 1,000 airports in more than 160 countries, with this year: Lisbon, Rabat, Langkawi in Malaysia, Davao in 14,250 daily departures. 65 PARTNERSHIP 66
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London - Monaco - Johannesburg - Liechtenstein - Hong Kong [email protected] - cullinandiamonds.com Gilet in faded fox fur over silk organza bustier dress with sequin embroider and 3D applied flowers, jewelled satin clutch and shoes with jewelled buckle Capsule Collection "We are in love with Salvatore Piccione" BLUMARINE LA BELLE NOISEUSE by paco di canto
Fashion Editor Alberto Corrado Stylist Fabio Pravato Make up Fabio Lo Coco Model Julie Oli @ THE FASHION MODEL MANAGEMENT
@ PALAZZO PARIGI HOTEL & GRAND SPA Long jacket in "Gipsy Gold" jacquard fabric with lamé FORTE_FORTE "Elisabeth" turban in Loro Piana silk FLAPPER High-waist bikini costume with sequins OSÉREE Open-toe sandal with rhinestones and plexi AQUAZZURA Earrings ILENIA CORTI VERNISSAGE Bracelet SHARRA PAGANO Single-breasted jacquard overcoat "Les Papillions" FORTE_FORTE Lace dress with glitter details and underskirt ERMANNO SCERVINO Broad-brimmed hat ALESSANDRA ZANARIA "Belvedere" sandal in plissè organza and satin GIANVITO ROSSI Plexi and enamelled metal flower brooch RADÀ "Très Vivier" duo plissè bag ROGER VIVIER Earrings SHARRA PAGANO Oasis bandana and bracelets in gold-dipped brass and white, blue and brown crystals, Kingham bag in velvet and crystals, velvet and ostrich feathers ROSANTICA GIOIELLI Jaquard print silk Kimono DAVII Crepe dress with feather inserts ALBAGIA "I love Vivier" piping pumps ROGER VIVIER Mongolia coat and floral crèpe de chine dress MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Alligator print leather sandal, peep-toe model with platform GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI Gilded flower metal earrings RADÀ Pearl and flower necklace EDWARD ACHOUR PARIS Pearland ceramic pearl bag ROSANTICA GIOIELLI Organic silk and Lurex thread brocade kimono GILBERTO CALZOLARI Double-breasted satin jacket with silk velvet lapels STEFANO DE LELLIS Sabot in suede and crystals JIMMY CHOO Floral earrings SHARRA PAGANO Raffia bustier dress with overlaid floral print, tights, brocade shoes and python bag with DG fastener DOLCE&GABBANA Pearl and Rose necklace SHARRA PAGANO Long lace dress with frilly neckline, suede mini-baguette FENDI One-piece sequin costume OSÉREE Ofelia sabots in plumetis lace GIANVITO ROSSI Pagoda with fringes ALESSANDRA ZANARIA Chandelier crystal earrings, Crystal bow bracelet SHARRA PAGANO Black plissè top and pants ALBERTA FERRETTI Ofelia sabots in plumetis lace GIANVITO ROSSI Red and black zebra glasses SL 213 SAINT LAURENT Leather carrè bag and foulard with fringes MANTERO1902 Star earrings in dipped brass with fringes ROSANTICA GIOIELLI Ring GERLANDO DISPENZA SHOPPING 78 Men Casual
TV BOY FOR MOA MASTER OF ARTS Sneakers from the "Urban Pop Sneaker" capsule collection, limited edition. www.moaconcept.com
RIVA BY MOVITRA Aquarama model with Carl Zeiss polarised lenses, made entirely in Italy in two colour versions: black and white. movitra.it
GUM Backpack from the Ungravity line, entirely in coated nylon. www.gum-design.com
NORTH SAILS Hoody jacket in 100% recycled polyester, stretch jersey T-shirt and volley shorts in cotton/nylon. www.northsails.com 79
ALTO MILANO Sea Island Cotton terry socks in precious silk chenille with vintage side stripes. www.altomilano.it
ROY ROGER'S 100% nylon denim jacket, garment dyed in four different colours. www.royrogers.it
MARNI Bicolor flat sandal. www.marni.com
RIFLE Straight turn-up trousers, pocket patch with the cowboy symbol of the brand, with zipper and straight hips. www.riflejeans.com SHOPPING
VESTIBUS 80 Tailored unlined suit in linen, wool and silk, Men Classic fabric by Loro Piana, 100% cotton shirt with Italian spread collar and silk tie.. www.vestibusclub.com
IMPULSO Shirt with all-over fantasy pattern, classic marine flags and Impulse sails logo. www.impulso.cloud
PIQUADRO Backpack and trolley from the new B35 line in full grain calfskin tanned using vegetable tannins. With powerbank and Connequ app system. www.piquadro.com
JACQUES MARIE MAGE Felix Havana model, hand-made in Japan, acetate material . jacquesmariemage.com C.PLUS 5 LA SIESTA Five pocket chinos, garment dyed in printed fabric espadrilles with gabardine stretch and yarn dyed in cotton/ vulcanised sole. Designer Jorge 81 linen chevron, khaki, bottle green, beige. Navarro Pertusa. www.cplusseries.com www.lasiestashoes.es
L.B.M 1911 Trench coat in high- tech fabric, new model, slimmer line trouser, waistcoat in two versions, single and double-breasted.. www.lubiam.it
AU DÉPART Whiskey trunk by Dimore Studio. SHOPPING 82 Women Casual
SEALUP Yellow maxi-cloak from the "Rain & Sea" collection. www.sealup.net
ANTEPRIMA BY PUGNALE Gloriosa model, frames in palladium or yellow gold, square or oval lenses. www.pugnaleeyewear.com
ASOS Padded hairband LA DOUBLE J with rhinestones and crystals. Dress, skirt and top in floral print. www.asos.com www.ladoublej.com 83
SALAR MILANO Bags and shoes collection, plastic forms and materials combine with lime colour leather and mesh. www.salar.it
ZANELLATO Mod. Nina bag-à-porter, with adjustable, removable handle and shoulder strap. www.zanellato.com
PINKO Python-animalier look in lively lime yellow. www.pinko.com
SHIRTAPORTER Jungle-print shirt-dress with indi sash. www.shirtaporter.com SHOPPING 84 Women Classic
MARZI FIRENZE Broad-brimmed hat in Florentine straw decorated with stones and a blade of dried grass. www.marzi.com
POLLINI Sandals with fine patent ankle strap . www.pollini.com
ALBERTA FERRETTI Long, voluminous caftan dress with coordinated woven sandals. www.albertaferretti.com
CAMPOMAGGI Edera line geometric bag in woven vacchetta leather. www.campomaggi.com 85 PATRIZIA PEPE Model from the Cosmictrotter collection in brilliant yellow with matching bags. www.patriziapepe.com
KARL LAGERFELD EYEWEAR Choupette model with multilayer acetate frontal, sinuous cut lenses and transparent coloured temples. www.karl.com
TWINSET Striped dress in Mediterranean colours. SEVENTY www.twinset.com Classic volumes for jacket and blouse in refined emerald colour fabrics. www.seventy.it FORGI'S - Authentic Italian Cuisine 4 Rue Suffren Reymond - Monaco
86 +377 97 98 68 28 © Philippe Fitte Philippe ©
ITALIANS COOK IT BETTER! For once we do not worry about the stars ... let's go to a small corner of Italy, Ops! Montecarlo...
To enjoy a good dinner you don't always have to follow the The absolute protagonist of Forgi's cuisine is freshly delivered Michelin stars... sometimes you just have to turn the corner every morning from the local market to be served raw as a of the street and find yourself sit at a table with friends in carpaccio, perfumed with fresh herbs in a soups or perfectly an unexpected restaurant able to take you on the Calabrian grilled... Fish and meat will be watered by an impressive list Coast, in the blink of an eye. of wines, ranging from reasonable bottles to Chablis Grand Régnard, Château Mouton Rotschild, Petrus... OK, these last In Montecarlo, one of these places is the Forgi's, located on ones are not Italian, but everyone will be happy to make an Rue Suffren Reymond, a small street right under the Rocher. exception ;-). The new creature of Luigi "Gigi" Forciniti, has recently The environment: stylish, friendly and in as good as the style opened its doors to offer the most typical dishes of the Italian of of the Principality requires. Also open for business lunches. tradition, with a modern, yet respectful, interpretation. Pastas, An informal parenthesis then, that we liked to point out to Risottos, meat and of course His Majesty the Fish! our readers looking for something special. 87 88
JEAN SHAFIROFF’S GUIDE TO NEW YORK AND MONACO FUNDRAISERS & EVENTS By Gina De Franco
Jean Shafiroff ,The American First Lady of Philanthropy who is on over 8 boards in the USA, has been a champion of causes helping children , animals, women’s rights and the environment. She recommends the following NYC and Monaco events for this upcoming social season.
The 10th Annual Unconditional Love Gala to benefit which launches NYC fashion week. Fashionistas meet hard the Southhampton NY Animal Shelter on July 20, 2019 working journalists, you are bound to see Glenda Bailey of was a big success. Jean Shafiroff is on the board and work Harpers’ Bazaar and Anna Wintour. tirelessly to help increase their funding. What started as Wednesday, September 4th 2019. a cocktail party, yielding USD 70.000 in donations, has David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center in New York City turned into the most sought after beautiful gala in South www.fitnyc.edu/museum/support/couture-council/ Hampton, New York, now reaching donations close to one christian-louboutin.php million USD. “We love all of our pets!” states Jean. Whether it be cats,dogs,horses or the marine sea life, Jean works tirelessly to support animal rescue and preservation The Metropolitan Opera opening night gala, Gala .Jean’s daughters also work tirelessly for animal rescue Premiere of James Robinson’s new production: efforts in remote parts of the world. The Gershwins’ Porgy and Bess. www.southamptonanimalshelter.com One of the must’s on the New York society scene, the Shafiroff’s are contributors and guests. Monday, September 23 2019 The Metropolitan Opera, New York. The Martin Shafiroff’s were honoured to benefit the Jenny www.metopera.org and John Paulson Emergency Department on August 3, 2019 in Southampton, NY.
When I went to the hospital last November with Jean, after Monte Carlo Gala, For the Global Ocean she twisted her ankle, I was astounded at how many nurses Presided by HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco, the third Monte and doctors knew the Shafiroff’s support for the hospital. Carlo Gala for the Global Ocean will take place on Thursday, The Shafiroff’s were praised for helping build a new wing, September 26, 2019, during the Monaco Yacht Show. which was partially due to their contributions. southampton.stonybrookmedicine.edu This major fundraising event will gather international artists and philanthropists for an exclusive gala in favor of the Foundation’s worldwide initiatives dedicated to a sustainable Ocean. 2019 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion Christian Louboutin Luncheon. “ Today, we know the immense opportunities offered by Wear those red heeled stilletto’s and join the Prada meets the ocean, provided we are able to protect it efficiently and Armani clad set. Jean is a guest at this very chic luncheon manage it in a sustainable manner ” © Michael Paniccia Michael © 89
H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco, UN Conference on Sustainable Development Goal 14», New York City, June 8th 2017.
Without a doubt, the top event all year round in Europe, this charity fundraiser draws on an International guest list who care to help our environment. Top name celebrities privately, as no journalists are allowed in side, support: Leonardo Di Caprio was honoured in year one , Orlando Bloom and Katie Perry joined in 2018). A rare and beautiful night ! Thursday,Sept.26, 2019 Terraces of the Opera Garnier, Principality of Monaco www.montecarlogalafortheocean.mc
The Disco 4 Humanity Celebration Monaco Glitter & Glam for the 10th Annual Better World Awards Beach party. A thank you to all the BWA guests and celebrity supporters in the past: Eva Longoria, Pamela Anderson, José Feliciano, Kweku Mandela, Ky-Mani Marley to name a few. Live Performance by the Gibson Brothers of the famed, "Cuba” song. More 70 and 80’s Bands added in September. Dance outdoors under the stars on Monaco Yacht Show Satruday. Event auction will benefit charity announced by August 25, 2019 on website. Saturday , September 28,2019. Meridien Hotel Beach Jean: “I hope to fly into Monaco for this super fun night for an important cause . The Disco theme will light up the already starry night over the Mediterranean.” www.thebwawards.com 90 CHANGING HUMANITY ONE FILM AT A TIME By Stacey Blanchet
Before Valentina Castellani was a flicker in her parent’s eyes, she was destined to make her part in changing the world. She was born in Florence, Italy, and her family owned an Opera House Theatre. Her Grandfather Riccardo was an important producers of the Fellini films and distributors of the Golden Era of Italian cinema. With this estimated background, where is she going to make her mark?
After the death of her husband, Francesco Quinn, son of Oscar winning actor, Anthony Quinn, she created Quinn Studios and embarked on a journey to make him proud. Quinn Studios decided to put it mark on the global stage in the areas of entertainment, the arts and world peace.
Ms. Quinn in 2012 produced her first television documentary series called “Life on a Bike” based on the Italian pro cycling tour “Giro D’Italia.” Quinn Studios then co-produced the movie “The Butterfly’s Dream” and caught the attention of the Golden Globes and Academy Awards in 2014 with a nomination “Best Foreign Movie.” A “Butterfly’s Dream” would go on to take 13 International Awards. As Ms. Quinn started entered the global stage, her studio helped on the post-production of “The Square” , a documentary on the Egyptian conflict, which won major International Awards, including the “Directors Guild, “Sundance Film Festival,” “Berlin Film Festival,” and “Dubai Film Festival in 2014. Quinn studios completed an award winning documentary about Peace in the Middle East: “ ONE ROCK THREE RELIGIONS” and won the “Human Rights Award,” along with “The U.S. Congress Award”. After making her mark on the global stage in such a short period of time, the awards started coming in: the “City of Los Angeles Award” in 2017 and the prestigious British “WIFTS” award in 2018. In 2019, Valentina expanded her Producer studios and created Quinn studios Entertainment. Her first production is the film titled “The White Snake” that will see her working with Native Americans and exploring alternative energies to oil, and its impact on the world. It might be easy to underestimate this soft-spoken, mild manner lady, but she packs a punch. She is diving in head first with her team of renegades on the ground and using her moral compass as her guide. Her films have taken her to the Pope’s Garden, Palestine, Standing Rock and next up, the Amazon. I sat down with Ms. Quinn to talk about life and was inspired by what the human mind and spirit can accomplish.
S.B. : How do you decide what films to direct and produce? What is the meaning behind your decision making process? V.C. : My projects challenge me deeply and force me to step out of my comfort zone. I study different parts of the world and cultures that I don't know. I always believed that projects choose us somehow... However, there are projects that resonate with me very deeply. Although I have produced very different of nature and snow, surrounded by traditional Indian tepees, films and documentaries, at the core each of the films I was like going back in time. I felt one with these people and produced, they have in common the love for humanity, nature, like part of a much bigger vision. It fully changed my a quest for understanding our spirit, our strength, and a relationship with humanity and our environment. It made it call to awaken and elevate the human condition. I always real and full of hope. achieved my highest goals in life, when I'm forced in a state of deep comfortability and need to find my center through S.B. : Do world affairs effect you down to your soul or are uncertainty ...the missing ring, which unites the chain and you an optimistic person and believe humanity and love will closes the circle. always win? V.C. : I am firmly rooted in the human condition. After S.B. : Your films focus on worldwide issues. Do you believe a having made a film about peace in the Middle East, and film can help or make the decision better in two hours or less? meeting with the leaders of the three Abrahamic religions V.C. : Yes. I am firmly convinced that films are still the most as well as the leaders of many countries, it reinforced me powerful and influential platform to convey an idea and on the amazing power of the human spirit. I have filmed message. With a simple phrase, a scene, a good script, we can Native Americans, I saw them fighting injustice, I saw them inspire an entire world. I like to make people reflect and take defeated. And yet I saw a tremendous spirit of unity and a stand on world issues. Our last Documentary about peace resilience arising. It feels like it takes so much courage these in the Middle East, "One Rock Three Religions" received the days to stay strong and positive. In my personal story and ‘US Congress Award Recognition’ for its effort to promote an the journey I walked through after the death of my husband, open dialogue between countries, religions and ethnicities. and the amazing developments of my life and my work as a As a result, Congress created two bills to promote peace and producer, taught me tremendous resilience and flooded me establish protection of the minorities in the Middle East. with hope and radiant positivity.
S.B. : The story of you meeting the Pope for 'One Rock Three S.B. : What are two core principles that you live by? Religions' is an incredible story. Can you share details for one V.C. : My life has brought me difficult challenges. Some how and why you got there, and what happened when you I chose and some I didn't. I had to face them with great were in the Garden? humility and endure. I have great love for humanity, my V.C. : Meeting Pope Francis and filming in the Vatican Italian origins have always helped me stay grounded to love Gardens was certainly one of the highlights of the film. and the genuine spirit of courage, honesty and hope. I read on the paper that Pope Francis, just returned from Jerusalem where he invited the two Presidents, Shimon S.B. : Films do not get made on their own. There is a business Perez and Mahmud Abbas, to pray together in the Vatican practice you must know. Movie packages, financing, Gardens. I thought, ‘this is it. We have to find a way to get the meetings and how to handle getting it all done. What advice permits to shoot the meeting’ . I had great determination: do you have for film makers on how to secure financing? I knew we could find a way... I called the Vatican offices V.C. : There is never a rule and only one way to find financing at 3am LA time. This is how my 10 night’s confession (as I for a project. Each film as its own story and personality. call it) started: I would call and speak with the Press office, What is important first of all, is to be prepared. Have a good night after night, explaining what we were in the process script. A treatment. A press kit on the project. A list and bio of doing with the film. I realized that no "big name" would of each member attached from the Director to producer, to matter: what they really cared was to understand what kind talents. Have a budget and business plan developed that of person I was, my values, my intent. ...On the 10th night I includes location shooting, daily costs and a time calendar. It received the permit to film the historical meeting between is so much more affirmative and reassuring for an investor to the Pope and the two presidents, and their prayer in the see a well-developed plan. Vatican Gardens. This moment shifted completely our perception of the film: S.B. : What do you want your legacy to be? If the Pope was believing in our project, we understood that V.C. : My legacy is already unfolding. It is one captained by we weren't just a couple of filmmakers believing in a cause, enthusiasm for life and people. It is one of love and courage. but actually a full "tribe" around the world connecting and I'm a believer and a story-teller and believe our destiny is uniting in the same vision. within. We just have to be brave enough to see it!
S.B. : How did you end up in Standing Rock filming while the standoff was going on? How was that experience for you? V.C. : Our film "THE WHITE SNAKE" is about the Native Americans and alternative energies to oil. I felt that the saga of Standing Rock was very symbolic of what is happening globally: humanity against technology. The protests spoke loudly to the world about the importance of respecting the planet and the environment. But, more importantly, to remember who we are as human beings, resonating together as one with the planet. New technologies are out there that have proved successful in other countries that On July 12th Valentina inaugurated the "Terra di Siena international will ignite a new ‘system’ which beats in harmony with the Film Festival" with a concert at the Teatro Reale "Dei Rinnovati", on heartbeat of the planet. the legendary Piazza del Campo in Siena. Guests were carried away The honor of filming with Chief Arvol Looking Horse, Chief of by the original music of the American jazz band "Sasha’s Bloc" by the All Stars Nations, and the Natives, in the middle of vast fields Grammy Award candidate Alexander Gershman.
92 © Yvan Grubski Yvan ©
© Yvan Grubski
GREEN AND GOOD MAITLAND GOES GOLF
The 9th Annual Barclay's Golf Trophy @ Royal Mougins Golf Resort.
On June 27th, Maitland's guests once again took part in the Fun time: on arrival, to warm up and enjoy a well-deserved Barclay’s Annual Golf Trophy. This friendly competition, by breakfast, players had the chance to try an original sort of invitation only, is now at its 9th edition, and has welcomed refreshment: making their own smoothie with the eco- a new partner, American Express. friendly "smoothie bike" (see picture ;-) !
For the third consecutive year, the setting was the Royal Business time: Over lunch with a wonderful panoramic Mougins Golf Court, an 18-hole par 71 course and Four- view to the course, guests listened to Barclay’s annual star resort, immersed in the purest nature in the hills speech on future trends and scenarios in the world above Cannes. economy.
The weather was perfect as around fifty guests enjoyed Heart time: The whole event was a fundraiser in support of the exceptional quality of the more than six kilometre the Monegasque Charity "Children & Future", making the course designed by American architect Robert von Hagge. Trophy an even more memorable occasion. 93
GREEN COFFEE MONACO - 33, RUE GRIMALDI - 98000 MONACO MAIL : [email protected] - TEL : 06 74 92 88 99 www.greencoffeemonaco.com 94
GETTING TOGETHER FOR A SUMMER ROSÉ On the French Riviera there's always a reason to celebrate: friendship, business, holidays... but the best reason for us is the new issue of Force One Magazine!
The golden rule for a successful summer evening soirée is laughter, with the magnificent Gulf of Eze in their eyes and simple: Great location, Great people, Great rosé ! transported by the languid notes of saxophonist Jessica Cochis, all our guests had the chance to savour delicacies A terrace overlooking the sea, the romantic summer sunset, prepared specially for the occasion by dual Michelin-starred the soft sea breeze... we couldn’t have asked for better to chef Arnaud Faye, accompanied by a delightful Cuvée celebrate the launch of Force One no. 23. Excellence du domaine Grand Rosé. The perfect occasion to truly enjoy a very exclusive cocktail on one of the most evocative terraces of the Côte d’Azur: the The sun sinks slowly into the sea as the lights of the Coast terrace of the legendary Château de la Chèvre d’Or in Eze. begin to illuminate another perfect evening on the French In a convivial, relaxed atmosphere, rich in conversation and Riviera. What more could you wish for?
© Matilde Fanni MAY 21-24, 2020 95 78TH MONACO GRAND PRIX
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