111212_NovDecNCR_BOB.indd 30 10/19/12 2:31 PM

CHEESE COURSE the art of TheŒ € Artof Œ

ARTISAN CHEESE DRESSES UP THE PLATE AND EXUDES CLASS. CheeseBy Jody Shee

decades past, when grocery stores and Those aged 30-50 show the greatest interest in artisan chefs wanted to impress with cheese and cheese, based on attendee demographics at California’s Artisan wine, they looked through catalogs and Cheese Festival, Devereux says. The annual weekend festival, marveled at the faraway choices, ordered, and waited for the which she formed in 2007, drew more than 4,000 people this goods to arrive from across the pond. year to Petaluma, Calif. The event features educational semi- In But around the turn of the century, a rumbling began in nars, chef demos, cheesemaking, grand dinners and an artisan Northern California, the heart of the state’s dairy industry. marketplace for consumers to buy cheese from the producers. “Small family farms began turning to artisan cheese as a value- added product they could develop to keep those family farms in existence,” says Lynne Devereux, owner of Butter Commu- Artisan Upcheese trendsto are the evolving, minute partly as a result of com- nications, Pleasant Hill, Calif., who previously was with the petition among producers and partly because the American palate California Milk Advisory Board and founded the California is ready to take the next flavor step forward. The availability of Artisan Cheese Guild. “We were experiencing a renaissance in mixed-milk is high on the trend list. “We don’t have a the dairy industry.” big tradition of sheep’s milk cheese in the U.S., but that’s starting California ranks second in U.S. cheese production behind to come along,” Devereux says. She describes it as divinely rich Wisconsin, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. and unctuous with an elegant flavor. But sheep don’t produce a PHOTO CREDIT Jason Tinacci/courtesy of Laura Chenel's Chevre Thus, it’s only natural that those two states are leaders in the lot of milk, so it is expensive. For example, she knows of one artisan cheese movement, with information, ideas, programs and cheesemaker who has started a flock of sheep, and the resulting resources readily available to chefs. cheese costs $45 a pound, which appeals to only the finest res- Much of the appeal of artisan cheese comes from its natural, taurants. Thus, some cheesemakers are producing sheep’s milk/ sustainable and local food moorings aptly supported by the bur- goat’s milk mixtures or cow’s milk/sheep’s milk mixtures. geoning farmers-market movement. Adding flavors to cheese, whether mixed in or rubbed on, “Americans’ love affair with artisan cheese is growing also is evolving. “Right now, the trend is about very high-quality stronger,” says Heather Porter Engwall, director of national cheese and delicate use of flavors that complement it,” Devereux product communications for the Wisconsin Milk Marketing says. In Oregon, a cheese producer is adding fennel seeds to goat’s Board, Madison. “As restaurants and retailers start to carry milk cheese. A Utah cheesemaker rubs cheese with coffee and more of these specialty products, consumers’ palates are getting lavender. “It’s just not your usual pepper cheese,” Devereux adds. used to it. And consumers never eat backward, so the demand Around the holidays, the cheese may include cranberries and continues to grow.” dried fruit as a covering/coating rather than served on the side.

This cheese plate features aged cheeses from Laura Chenel’s Chevre with almonds The fastest-growing category in the annual American and figs. Cheese Society competition is washed-rind cheeses. “The public

ACFCHEFS.ORG 31

111212_NovDecNCR_BOB.indd 31 10/19/12 2:31 PM CHEESE COURSE the art of cheese

LINK UP It’s common for chefs who are sold on artisan cheese to make pilgrimages to cheesemakers’ operations to get to know the people and, sometimes, their animals. Thus, part of the artisan cheese renaissance that began around 2000 includes educational programs, facilities tours and relationship building.

On opening its artisan cheese doors in 2000, Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, Point Reyes Station, Calif., began giving farm tours and tastings to retailers and chefs. Overwhelming interest led to expansion, and in 2010, the company opened The Fork, a culinary and farmers, as well as other cheesemakers, educational center—an event space with Basch says. Once a month, they conduct a hospitality center, commercial kitchen culinary classes led by popular chefs. and outdoor patio with an edible garden. There are other ways to learn more about Visiting chefs can have all levels of artisan cheese. Visit these websites: experience, all the way from a simple tour and cheese-tasting to bringing along www.eatwisconsincheese.com restaurant staff for a retreat filled with Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, hands-on cheesemaking experience and Madison, Wis.

recipe development, with or without the PHOTO CREDIT Brad Ronevich, owner, Viscom Commercial/courtesy of Pura Vida by Brandt Evans; Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co. help of The Fork’s executive chef, says www.cheesesociety.org managing partner Jill Giacomini Basch. American Cheese Society, Denver

For one of its organized programs, Point www.cacheeseguild.org Reyes Farmstead Cheese brings in partner California Artisan Cheese Guild, purveyors to highlight how well artisanal Oakland, Calif. cheese pairs with other product produced by those with similar sensibilities, such www.cowgirlcreamery.com is becoming more curious about those types,” says Devereux. as wineries, craft brewers, the California Cowgirl Creamery, Point Reyes It’s a fact that is remarkable given that washed-rind cheeses are oyster industry and local row crop Station, Calif. the stinky cheeses. To make it, the rind is periodically washed with any of a number of liquids during ripening and kept moist face with our interpretation,” he says, adding that naming the source to encourage bacteria growth, which comes out orange-red and “is the best way to increase the value-added scenario to the menu.” smelly. Think Limburger. Macaroni and cheese is a perfectly acceptable dish to highlight artisan cheese in Whatley’s opinion. He has used Cypress Grove Chevre’s Truffle Tremor™, in which a layer of summer truffles runs through the goat’s milk cheese. MeaningfulPercy Whatley, CEC, executive on chef atthe The Ahwahneemenu Hotel One of the hotel’s most popular menu items is the Sierra in California’s Yosemite National Park, supports California Nevada Pale Ale and Fiscalini Farms Cheddar Cheese Soup. The cheesemakers, mindful of the carbon footprint and wanting to award-winning cheese comes from Fiscalini Cheese Company, support the local economy. “Plus, it’s a much more natural process, Modesto, Calif. with 18 months of aging, wrapping the cheese in cheesecloth and The starter section of Whatley’s vegetarian menu lists Wild turning it on a schedule. It’s a slower process,” he says. Mushroom Flatbread, which combines seasonal mushrooms, Laura In addition to naming producers, the right-hand column on Chenel goat cheese, arugula, crispy onions and California olive The Ahwahnee Hotel menu features local, sustainable messages, oil—for $14.75. The spinach salad has cold poached farm egg, sometimes highlighting one of Whatley’s favorite cheesemakers, Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company’s Original Blue™, red Cowgirl Creamery, Point Reyes Station, Calif. “We’re in people’s onion, radish and sherry vinaigrette for $12.50. Whatley is frank about the hefty price of artisan cheese.

Above, Pura Vida by Brandt Evans in Cleveland offers daily cheese boards featuring “You need to be prepared for the cost implications,” he says. select artisan cheeses. The restaurant also provides the opportunity to order cheese However, he has learned that a little of the cheese goes a long boards for larger groups. way. A cheese-tasting dessert platter does not need 6 ounces of Right, is one for which Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co. is known. Made cheese for one person. “It shouldn’t be more than an ounce each from cow’s milk, it is said to have a buttery flavor and subtle, grassy, tangy finish. of three kinds. Only two bites of each cheese is plenty.”

32 THE NATIONAL CULINARY REVIEW • NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012

111212_NovDecNCR_BOB.indd 32 10/19/12 2:31 PM Always Premium. Ever Authentic.

Our variety of leading cheeses – from to aged cheeses to specialty cheeses – bring together old-world

traditions with new-world methods to add consistently authentic taste to your dishes. For more information, please

contact your Saputo representative, call 1.800.824.3373 or visit saputousafoodservice.com today.

Saputo Cheese USA Inc. | Lincolnshire, IL 60069 | saputousafoodservice.com

The brands and logos shown herein are protected trademarks used by Saputo Cheese USA Inc. ACFCHEFS.ORG 33 © 2012 Saputo Cheese USA Inc. All rights reserved.

111212_NovDecNCR_BOB.indd 33 10/19/12 2:31 PM 1740-015841-12 FLad• BLEED NatlCulinary jc1.indd- 8.625" 1 x 11.125" • TRIM - 8.375" x 10.875" • LIVE - 7.375" x 9.875" 09121740015841-129/24/12 9:49 AM CHEESE COURSE the art of cheese

It’s easier toHow highlight cheese to in thehighlight European tradition of eating, where the main course is usually followed by a cheese course, and then dessert. “We didn’t grow up that way. Not many of us have that experience,” Devereux says. But she encourages chefs to try to incorporate a cheese course, with staff training as the key to success. Let the staff taste the cheeses, then pronounce the names for them, tell them the stories and explain who made them. “So when they go to the table and take the customer’s order, they can say, ‘By the way, we have really beautiful cheese we want you to try, so save room,’” Devereux says. With the cheese, include local bread or crackers, local honey, or a simple fruit and nuts. The other way to gear up diners for vegetables with toast points. “It’s a great snacking appetizer. The a cheese course is to have a beautiful cheese cart highly visible guest can make bacon pimento cheese sandwiches out of it.” when guests walk into the restaurant, Devereux adds. For a flatbread appetizer, he uses a Widmer spreadable brick Brandt Evans, chef-owner of Blue Canyon Kitchen & Tavern cheddar to top the flatbread instead of tomato sauce, and adds in Twinsburg, Ohio, and Pura Vida by Brandt Evans in Cleveland, chorizo sausage, maple bacon and Granny Smith apple slices. is especially keen to support local cheesemakers, valuing the rela- “It’s a top seller at Blue Canyon,” he says. tionships he builds with them. He develops themes for the cheese Other restaurants may want to highlight their artisan cheeses on plates he offers. He may stay with several types of cheddar— the bar menu, going with a wine-and-cheese-pairing theme. “This for example, a two-year, four-year and eight-year aged cheddar— would be great for restaurants with a wine-by-the-glass program,” so guests can taste the difference. He also has gone with goat Devereux says. In that case, she advises drawing up a menu that cheese from Wisconsin, New York and Ohio and encouraged suggests different for different types of wine. guests to taste the different processes and the different grasses Even the dessert menu presents an opportunity to highlight and herbs the goats have eaten. artisan cheese and exude a quality image, which is important at For goat cheese accompaniments, this summer Evans included Pebble Beach Resorts, Pebble Beach, Calif. As the corporate pastry spiced almond brittle and fig purée marmalade on the cheese chef for the three hotels at Pebble Beach Resort, John Hui, CEPC, plate. “If I’m featuring hard blue cheese or aged cheddar, I’ll go AAC, is captivated with the better flavor of artisan cheese versus with more pickled vegetables or grain mustard,” he says. mass-produced cheese. He mainly works with such soft cheeses Chefs who prefer not to offer a cheese course can highlight as , , cream cheese and, occasionally, brie. artisan cheeses as a first-course appetizer, “because that’s what For a Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese (Waterloo, Wis.) we do. Offer artisan cheese in an amuse-bouche, in a salad or competition, he created a recipe for Vanilla Bean Mascarpone a first course where chefs can be imaginative,” Devereux says. Cake with Orange Mascarpone Gelato. “The cake is nice and “It’s where Americans look for cheese.” She suggests a crostini moist, served with a warm strawberry compote and the nice, topped with melted cheese, and jam or chutney, pesto, roasted cold, smooth orange flavor of mascarpone gelato. The whole PHOTO CREDIT Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese tomatoes or some other seasonal topping. thing tastes great together,” Hui says. An appetizer fondue is a great way to use up cheese odds and He previously worked at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas, where he ends. Serve it with vegetables or bread as a dip. “It’s fun. Call it would incorporate artisan cheese into artisan bread he created with- the house blend. It changes. Add a little white wine in there and out the use of commercial yeast, made, rather, from natural starters. it’s a delicious appetizer,” says Devereux. One bread combined blue cheese with green olives and walnuts. Evans keeps his eye on the end pieces of his Widmer cheddar Artisan cheese has a bright future on restaurant menus, Hui (from Widmer’s Cheese Cellars, Theresa, Wis.) and makes his own believes. “Everything is about uniqueness. Just like with artisan pimento cheese out of it to serve with housemade bacon and pickled bread, everyone is looking for something different.”

JODY SHEE, AN OLATHE, KAN.-BASED FREELANCE WRITER AND EDITOR, PREVIOUSLY WAS EDITOR Using Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese, John Hui, corporate pastry chef for Pebble Beach OF A FOODSERVICE MAGAZINE. SHE HAS MORE THAN 20 YEARS OF FOOD-WRITING EXPERIENCE AND Resorts, created this Vanilla Bean Mascarpone Cake with Orange Mascarpone Gelato. WRITES THE BLOG WWW.SHEEFOOD.COM.

34 THE NATIONAL CULINARY REVIEW • NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012

111212_NovDecNCR_BOB.indd 34 10/19/12 2:31 PM Culinary Apprenticeship: A Valuable Career Path NSF International Many head chefs started their careers as apprentices, helping prep cooks and sous chefs with daily tasks. Apprenticeship gives students an opportunity to gain industry experience that directly applies the coursework they learn in class. The connection between the hands-on experience gained working under a supervising chef in a professional kitchen and the related coursework makes apprenticeship a valuable career path. It can take 10 or more years to attain the opportunity to work as a head chef. And, even with a culinary degree, you may have to start out peeling potatoes. Apprentices train under a supervising chef in a restaurant, a large scale institution, or in the armed forces. They work in all sorts of kitchens, from fine-dining to chain restaurants and gastro-pubs, from hotels and resorts to private clubs and cruise lines, and in a wide variety of contracted foodservice operations.

Apprentices are paid regular wages and must complete a minimum number of hours in each of 10 stations while preparing at least 50% of the food from scratch. They also must complete 445 hours of related instruction outside of their work schedule. The hours are long, but the knowledge and skills the apprentice gains by working with a supervising chef and certified chef instructors is immeasurable.

Supervising chefs mentor apprentices as they hone the skills, abilities, and work ethic required for success in the foodservice industry. Upon completion of a two- or three-year apprenticeship, students who pass a written and a practical exam qualify for ACF certification as either a certified sous chef (CSC) or a certified culinarian (CC). A Complete Training Package The National Apprenticeship Training Program for Cooks training package provides both supervising chefs and chef instructors with a variety of print and digital instructional materials that can be adapted to the specific needs of your training program. The 10 stations address culinary principles and practices, from stewarding to supervisory development and from fabrication to soups and sauces. QR codes on select pages offer easy access to related online information using smartphone technology. The textbook also includes a DVD packed with interactive learning tools. For more detailed information, visit www.go2atp.com.

In addition to the interactive resources on the textbook DVD, the Supervising Chef’s Resource Guide provides PowerPoint® presentations, instructional plans, interactive illustrations, step-by-step procedures, and an answer key to assist with the delivery of instruction on the job and in the classroom. • PowerPoint® Presentations include images and captions used in the textbook, as well as related instructional notes. Slides can be added to each of the presentations to enhance a particular training program. • Instructional Plans provide step-by-step scripts of the content covered and the related instructional tasks that should be addressed for each station. Each instructional plan details the related resources, instructional points, review options, and evaluations to help guide apprentices through each station. • Interactive Illustrations are organized by station, with textbook figure numbers and titles included for easy reference. Images can be resized as needed. • Step-by-Step Procedures are PowerPoint® presentations that illustrate key preparation techniques. • The Answer Key lists answers for the Certification Exam Preparation questions for each station.

American Technical Publishers

go2atp.com 800-323-3471

111212_NovDecNCR_BOB.indd 35 10/19/12 2:31 PM