Composer Errollyn Wallen Traveling in Syria

FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008

Amsterdam art “Jacob Backer: Rembrandt’s Opposite” exhibits 40 paintings and 20 drawings © Viviane Sassen/Courtesy Motive Gallery, Amsterdam by Dutch Golden Age painter Jacob Adriaensz Backer (1608/9-1651). Museum Het Rembrandthuis Nov. 29-Feb. 22 % 31-20-5200-400 www.rembrandthuis.nl photography Washington’s “Viviane Sassen—Flamboya” presents recent portraits of young Africans in Zambia, Kenya and Tanzania by Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen. FOAM Until Jan. 18 % 31-20-5516-500 www.foam.nl Woodstock Prague Berlin art art “Jarmila Maranová: Kafka and Prague” “Cult of the Artist: Giacometti, the shows 54 monotypes by the Czech What’s in Egyptian” shows work by Swiss surre- artist Jarmila Maranová (born 1922), alist sculptor and painter Alberto Gia- © VG Bild Kunst, Bonn illustrating literary works by Franz the works cometti (1910-1966). Kafka. Egyptian Museum Jewish Museum Until March 1 Until Jan. 4 for Barack % % 49-30-2090-5577 420-221-7115-11 www.smb.spk-berlin.de www.jewishmuseum.cz Obama’s photography history “Helmut Newton: Fired” exhibits work “The Republic” presents documents, inauguration by German-Australian photographer posters and photography illustrating 90 years of history since the founding Helmut Newton (1920-2004), shot of Czechoslovakia. during the 1960s and ’70s for fashion National Museum magazines Elle, Queen, Nova and Until March 15 Marie Claire after Newton was fired % 420-2-2449-7111 from French Vogue in 1964.

© Helmut Newton Estate www.nm.cz Museum für Fotografie Nov. 30-May 17 Above, ‘Nova,’ 1971, by Helmut Newton, Centre d’Art Contemporain opera % 49-30-3186-4825 on show in Berlin; right, ‘Head of a Until Feb. 1 “Monkey: Journey to the West” is an Rome www.smb.museum/smb Cow,’ 1983, by Stephan Balkenhol, in % 41-22-3291-842 opera from the creators of the pop art Hamburg; top right, ‘D.N.A.,’ 2007, by www.centre.ch band Gorillaz and director Chen Shi- “From Rembrandt to Vermeer: Civil Val- Brussels Viviane Sassen, in Amsterdam. Zheng, featuring the Dalian Circus of ues in 17th Century Flemish and Dutch Painting” exhibits 55 major opera China. Hamburg Flemish and Dutch masterpieces from “Rusalka”: Stefan Herheim stages a Millennium Dome—O2 art the 17th century, including paintings contemporary vision of Antonín spective of the work of the British Until Dec. 5 “Stephan Balkenhol” exhibits figurative by Vermeer, Rubens, Hendrickje Stof- Dvorák’s lyric tale of the nymph Rus- fashion designer (1928-1995). % 44-20-7536-2600 sculptures created from soft wood by fels and others. alka and her quest to posess a human National Museum of Scotland www.monkeyjourneytothewest.com German artist Stephan Balkenhol Museo del Corso body and soul in order to express her Until March 15 (born 1957). Until Feb. 15 love for a young prince and be loved % 44-131-225-7534 Deichtorhallen Hamburg Madrid % 39-066-7862-098 www.nms.ac.uk by him. Until Feb. 1 photography www.museodelcorso.it La Monnaie % 49-40-3210-30 “Alberto García-Alix: From Where Dec. 5-21 art www.deichtorhallen.de There Is No Return” showcases pho- Warsaw % 32-7023-3939 “The Art of Italy in the Royal Collec- tography in various formats taken be- photography www.lamonnaie.be tion: The Baroque” features paintings tween 1976 and 2008 by Spanish pho- Lisbon “No Such Thing as Society: Photogra- and drawings from a British court col- tographer Alberto García-Alix (born art phy in Britain 1967-1987” shows 137 Cologne lection of 17th and 18th Italian art. 1956). “Work Art in Focus: The 53 Stations photographs by 33 documentary pho- The Queen’s Gallery Museo Nacional Centro de Arte art of the Tokaido” shows woodblock tographers illustrating life in Britain Until March 8 Reina Sofía “Looking for Mushrooms: Beat Poets, prints depicting legends and tales re- from the late ’60s to the late ’80s. % 44-2078-3913-77 Until Feb. 16 Hippies, Funk and Minimal Art lated to the post stations of the To- Centre for Contemporary Art www.royalcollection.org.uk % 34-91-7741-000 1955-1968” explores art and culture in kaido road between Edo (Tokyo) and Until Jan. 11 San Francisco around 1968, through Kyoto. museoreinasofia.mcu.es % 48-22-6281-2713 art, design, film, poetry and photogra- Florence Museu Calouste Gulbenkian csw.art.pl phy. Includes work by Stan Brakhage, art Until Feb. 28 Oslo Robert Crumb, Lenny Bruce, Peter “Art, Price and Value—Contemporary % 351-21-7823-000 art Zurich Saul and others. Art and the Market” examines links www.museu.gulbenkian.pt “Blowout!” presents highlights from archaeology Museum Ludwig between contemporary art and the in- 30 years of work by the first Norwe- “Roman Treasures Buried and Redis- Until March 1 ternational market through work by London gian glass studio formed by artist Ulla covered” presents late-Roman (260 % 49-221-2212-6165 such artists as Denis Darzacq, Damien art Mari Brantenberg and glass artist A.D.) gold jewelry and silver coins www.museenkoeln.de Hirst, Christian Janowski, Aernout Mik, “Paths to Fame: Turner Watercolours Karen Klim. from Lunnern in the canton of Zurich. Antoni Muntadas and Ad Reinhardt. from The Courtauld” shows a collec- Henie Onstad Kunstsenter Schweizerisches Landesmuseum Dublin Palazzo Strozzi tion of 30 works by J.M.W. Turner Until Dec. 20 Until March 22 % art Until Jan. 11 (1775-1851). 47-67-8048-80 % 41-44-2186-511 % “Northern Stars and Southern Lights: 39-055-2776-461 Courtauld Institute of Art Gallery www.hok.no www.musee-suisse.com/e/zuerich The Golden Age of Finnish Art www.palazzostrozzi.org Until Jan. 25 1870-1920” exhibits works by Eero % 44-207-872-0220 Paris Source: ArtBase Global Arts News Ser- Järnefelt, Väinö Blomstedt, Pekka Ha- Geneva www.courtauld.ac.uk music vice, WSJE research. lonen, Juho Rissanen and others. art “Gainsbourg” presents art, music, pho- National Gallery of Ireland “Between Art and Life: Performativity art tography and documentation illustrat- Until Feb. 1 in Japanese Art” presents work by “Bruegel to Rubens Masters of Flem- ing the career of French music per- WSJ.com % 353-1-6615-133 Japanese artists rooted in perform- ish Painting” exhibits 51 Flemish paint- former and icon Serge Gainsbourg www.nationalgallery.ie What’s on ance art. Includes work by Atelier Bow- ings from the 15th to 17th centuries. (1928-1991). WSJ.com subscribers can see an Wow, Taro Izumi, Yayoi Kusama, Yasu- Queen’s Gallery Musée de la Musique expanded version of the European Edinburgh masa Morimura, Yoko Ono, Takako Until April 26 Until March 1 arts-and-culture calendar at % % fashion Saito, Tomoko Sawada, Shimabuku 44-20-7766-7301 33-1-4487-4500 WSJ.com/Europe “Jean Muir: A Fashion Icon” is a retro- and Rikuo Ueda. www.royalcollection.org.uk www.cite-musique.fr Composer Errollyn Wallen Traveling in Syria W12 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL 9 | Cover story Travel 6-7 | Travel Visiting Vancouver, DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES WATERFRONT PROPERTIES Contents before the Games begin t 3 | Fashion Washington’s UNITED STATES Japan’s new style trend: Woodstock the princess look What’s in store for Barack Obama’s inauguration 4 | Arts Composer Errollyn Wallen on music with a message 8 | Travel Collecting: The old masters face a new market Tourists warm up to Syria

5 | Sports 10 | Taste Havel returns to ‘Leaving’ Golf Journal: Playing through Dominican Republic – Ocean Front Spectacular 30.8 acres the hard times (126,000 sqm) ocean front 12 | Time Off parcel, North Shore Dominican Republic. The price of a Brita water pitcher Utilities to property. Less Our arts and culture calendar than 3 kilometers from COVER ILLUSTRATION: STEPHEN MUNDAY Cabarete, 15 minutes from Puerto Plata International WSJ.com Airport. $12,000,000 USD, broker participation wel- come. Las Vegas, NV USA A running tally Personal landscape Value meals phone 702-405-0196 Elizabeth Blackshire Editor What drives people who Private gardens that High-end restaurants are Craig Winneker Deputy editor jog every day for more rival public parks in luring customers with Fahire Kurt Art director Kathleen Van Den Broeck Assistant art director PRIVATE than 30 years. ambition and scope. discounted dishes. 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W2 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 W11 v Taste v Fashion Havel’s Humanity By Salil Tripathi London, he had no time to work who offers a lifeline to the family mark accent, telling the actors handas Gandhi; in the documen- Japan’s new style icon: Marie Antoinette on “Leaving” or any other play when it matters; the other, mar- what to do and what not to do tary, we see the framed picture of In 1988, when he was still a while in office; indeed, he had al- ried to a quiet man, is keen to en- (such as getting melodramatic). Burmese dissident Aung San Suu dissident playwright, Vaclav most forgotten its existence. But sure that the new companion Mr. Havel has frequently noted Kyi on his mantelpiece.) By Yukari Iwatani Kane lored to Japanese women, whom Havel began writing a play about he rediscovered the manuscript won’t raid the family silver. Mean- life’s absurdity. In his new mem- The memoir reveals how the And Lisa Thomas he found to be shorter and to have the angst of a political leader after retirement, and his muse in- while, mafia capitalists have oir “To the Castle and Back” there cocoon of presidency frustrates Tokyo smaller chests than Western about to relinquish power. Out- spired him again. “Leaving” emerged, to the chagrin of the de- are long, thoughtful passages in him: The tedium of the quotidian HEN MAYUMI Yamamoto women. Inspired by his favorite ac- wardly, the leader looked su- opened in Prague earlier this year parting leader; a besotted student which he reflects on what pro- is exasperating. He has to deal goes out for coffee or win- tress, Brigitte Bardot, he created premely confident; inwardly, he and in London in September. It is follows him, willing to trade ro- pelled him to the presidency. In with dull bureaucrats who believe Wdow shopping, she likes dresses in quality fabrics that mim- had no idea how he would face now running at the Orange Tree mance for access to power; and the documentary, we observe him they can improve on his speeches. to look as though she’s going to a icked the feminine and elegant his future. For a Czechoslovak Theatre to packed audiences. his cynical successor has his eyes closely during his presidency, as He has to deal with a bat living in formal garden party. One day re- style of her youth. writer only used to living under There cannot be a more suit- set firmly on the commercial po- he grapples with dilemmas and his attic, the quality of food cently, she was decked out in a “What I wanted to do wasn’t dictators, even imag- able venue for the tential of the presidential palace cuts through obscurity to arrive served to guests, the choice and frilly, rose-patterned dress, match- that unique,” says Mr. Miyamae, ining a leader honor- play than Orange and wants to get rich quick. placement of cutlery, the ordeal of ing pink heels with a ribbon and a who named the company after a ing the limits the Real accounts Tree, whose direc- Critics have noted ob- getting his cigarette lighter fixed. huge pink bow atop her long hair, Japanese musical. “I just made constitution im- tor Sam Walters vious parallels with He also struggles against soft- dyed brown and in pre-Raphaelite them to fit Japanese bodies.” posed was a heroic of his life, and a has done more than Mr. Havel’s own ware advancements that curls. Mr. Miyamae’s knee-length act. But then, Mr. version without anyone else in life—as if Mr. complicate tasks like Ms. Yamamoto is a hime gyaru, dresses are studded with fake Havel had done bringing Mr. Havel’s Havel is looking word processing. or princess girl, a growing new pearls and flowers and have many more heroic the fairy-tale plays to Western au- back at his life, His memoir is tribe of Japanese women who aim names like Antoine (short for things, such as writ- ending. diences. A longtime mocking both him- not a straight- to look like sugarcoated, 21st-cen- Marie Antoinette). They became ing plays like “The supporter of Mr. self and his succes- forward narra- tury versions of old-style Euro- popular among women who were Garden Party” and Havel’s work, the sor, Vaclav Klaus. tive with a be- pean royalty. They idolize Marie looking for a cleaned-up look after Above, Mayumi Yamamoto; right, “The Memorandum” and leading theater has staged most of his Mr. Havel has denied ginning, middle Antoinette and Paris Hilton, for the popularity of ripped jeans and Keiko Mizoe (at right, with another Charter 77, the movement of plays and championed Charter such an interpretation. and end. First, her baby-doll looks and princess layered casual clothing in the late sales clerk from the Jesus Diamante Czech and Slovak intellectuals 77. As an added treat, Orange But if the play is auto- there are edited lifestyle. They speak in soft, 1990s. The chain’s sales have boutique). fighting for fundamental free- Tree is performing more Havel biographical, it is oddly extracts from chirpy voices and flock to special- grown 20% a year, to $13.4 million doms. He was accused of “disturb- plays through Dec. 13, including confessional. It does his diary, not ized boutiques with names like in the year ended March 2008, losing about 15 kilograms in re- ing the peace” (which became the “Mountain Hotel.” not exculpate Mr. necessarily in Jesus Diamante, which looks like a even though it has just four cent years, she got hooked on Dia- title of one of his later books) and The Havel-fest doesn’t end Havel’s alter ego, chronological bedroom in a European chateau. stores, including one in Tokyo’s mante’s tight-waisted dresses jailed for four and a half years. there: In October, the London In- who ends up as a order. Then There, some hime girls spend trendy Harajuku neighborhood. It adorned with huge rose patterns, Mr. Havel called that play about ternational Film Festival screened hapless and help- there is an ac- more than $1,000 for an outfit in- has spurred a slew of rivals with and estimates she may be spend- the politician “Leaving.” But he “Obcan Havel” (Citizen Havel), a less clown, demean- count of his cluding a satin dress, parasol and names like Liz Lisa and La Pafait. ing $2,000 or $3,000 a month. had to leave it incomplete—not be- documentary by Pavel Kouteck ing his reputation. Ryan Inzana postpresidential life, rhinestone-studded handbag. Mr. Miyamae has also hired Her husband, an architect who cause he had to hide it from the and Miroslav Janek. And earlier Mr. Havel is fascinated at morally sharp decisions. When based on reflections written dur- “When they come out with a some loyal customers as shop loves Europe, pays for most of her state police, but because he had this year, Portobello Books pub- by the odd turns that life takes, asked how he can tolerate Czechs ing a sabbatical at the U.S. Li- new item, I can’t sleep at night be- clerks, who spent time experiment- purchases. Her parents, who live the Velvet Revolution to lead. By lished “To the Castle and Back,” and those themes resonate in spreading falsehoods about him brary of Congress. Finally, we see cause that’s all I can think about,” ing with makeup and hairstyles to nearby, send the couple food so 1989, Mr. Havel was attracting Mr. Havel’s memoir of his years “Leaving.” It is as if he is explor- in parliament, he says philosophi- his thoughtful responses to a says Ms. Yamamoto of the Dia- go with the clothes, eventually they have more money for Ms. crowds when he spoke. Nearly in power. Taken together, the new ing how his life might have turned cally that democracy imposes re- journalist who asks him complex mante dresses. The 36-year-old coming up with the doe-eyed prin- Yamamoto’s shopping sprees. 200,000 heard him speak at play, the documentary and the out if it did not have a fairy-tale straints on those who believe in questions about his presidency. housewife has amassed a collec- cess look. Diamante started stock- “I figure it’s OK as long as Prague’s Wenceslas Square that No- book provide a remarkably consis- ending. There are nods to three it, even if those who don’t believe The fragmented structure tion of 20 princess dresses in the ing its own interpretation of regal- what I’m buying is pretty,” she vember; the next month he became tent view of Mr. Havel’s humanity. great influences on Mr. Havel’s in democracy can act without any seems discontinuous at first, but past eight months and even looking accessories, such as tiaras, says. Czechoslovakia’s president. More “Leaving” is about Vilém writing: William Shakespeare restraint. Rather than take a prag- it eventually becomes compre- decked out her bedroom with imi- elbow-length gloves and stiletto- —Miho Inada than 13 years later, he left the pres- Rieger, a chancellor finding the (“King Lear” and its weakened matic, convenient way out of an- hensive—a testament to the tation rococo furniture. heeled slippers adorned with rib- contributed to this article. Lisa Thomas idency of the truncated Czech Re- trappings of power leaving him as ruler with his daughters); Anton other crisis, he says his responsi- fairy-tale outcome of an aston- Japan has been famous for its bons. public when his term ended. Along his term ends. Nobody likes his Chekhov (“The Cherry Orchard” bility is to speak the truth. Living ished intellectual at the center extreme fashion fads, mostly Keiko Mizoe, Jesus Diamante’s the way, he helped to disband the new companion, who looks like makes frequent appearances, liter- in truth (the title of yet another of history, staring down lies, among teenagers. These have top sales clerk and a former cus- Warsaw Pact, advocated the Czech an aggressive shrew trying her ally and metaphorically); and Sam- of his books) is what he did fac- tearing down walls. In the end, ranged from the Lolita look, in tomer, says she sees the princess Republic’s admission to NATO and best to show the leader in good uel Beckett (“Endgame” and its ab- ing up to the Communists; as pres- all of that makes sense, as in a which women dress up in baby- style as one befitting an elegant the European Union, and provided light. He has two daughters from surdity resonate). Ever the practi- ident, he is not about to make any Havel play. doll dresses and bonnets, to a woman from an upper-class fam- moral authority to public office. a previous marriage: one who is cal joker, Mr. Havel makes off- compromises. (In the play, the tough-girl look called Yamamba, ily. The girls are “perfect, gor- As Mr. Havel said recently dur- absorbed in her internal universe stage intrusions into the play, leader is attached to a statue of Mr. Tripathi is a writer living in or mountain hag, which requires a geous and feminine,” says the ing a talk at the British Library in of cellphone, laptop and iPod, but through voice-overs in his trade- the nonviolent Indian leader Mo- London. dark tan, white eye shadow and 24-year-old, herself dressed in a shaggy, silver-bleached hair. red checkered dress, pink stock- But the princess boom is seen ings in heart patterns and pink as a more polished and sophisti- nails studded with crystals. cated look that’s popular among Ms. Mizoe, who the company Paul McCartney’s Latest Collaboration working women in their 20s and says single-handedly sells about 30s, perhaps as a bit of escapism $95,000 in clothing each month, By Jim Fusilli 2000 album that’s credited to Mr. Whatever the relationship in and what sounds like sarod and rine and high-hat percussion and from workaday stress and eco- has become an idol among Dia- McCartney, Youth, Super Furry the studio, it works. If “Electric sitar add a sense of India to fat guitar and bass, “Highway” in- nomic uncertainty. mante customers, who try to imi- During a BBC interview broad- Animals and the Beatles. Argument” doesn’t sound like pre- “Lifelong Passion.” A pan flute vokes “Drive My Car.” A plucked “There’s a longing for a happy- tate everything about her. On the cast last week, Paul McCartney “Electric Arguments” is a rock vious albums by The Fireman, nei- introduces “Is This Love?” be- electric bass offers a counter- ending fairy tale,” says Asuka Wa- store’s Web site, she keeps a regu- mentioned a never-released Beat- album that mixes elements of the ther does it sound like Mr. Mc- fore a chirping guitar ushers in point to a strummed 12-string gui- tanabe, a sociology professor at larly updated blog, in which she les track, “Carnival of Light,” re- genre’s past with its present. Each Cartney’s recent pristine solo ef- Mr. McCartney’s vocal, which, as tar on “Sun Is Shining,” another Kyoritsu Women’s Junior College, lists her favorite food (Godiva’s corded in 1967. By doing so, he song was written and recorded in forts, which are a tad reserved. in several tunes on the album, is pleasing track with a great vocal who specializes in street fashion. heart-shaped chocolates), favorite buried this week’s news: He’s is- a single day—13 songs, 13 days— Which isn’t to suggest the album surrounded in a wash of electron- and an appealing chorus. Are the While it may be in style among drink (cocoa at Tokyo Disneyland) sued a new album, “Electric Argu- thus leaving little is a cluttered knock- ics, creating a different context chirping birds from the tape that fashionable women in New York and favorite expression (thank ments” (MPL). It’s by Mr. McCart- time for overthink- off. It’s a seriously for this very familiar singer. was used on the Beatles’ “Across and London, black isn’t an option you). ney and producer/musician ing the tracks, Does the former good piece of mod- For decades, Mr. McCartney the Universe”? for hime girls, who prefer pink Haruka Oohira, a 16-year-old Youth, who record together under though one suspects Beatle, at age ern rock, and there has enjoyed toying with his voice. Mr. McCartney has emerged and florals. They also have a doll- hime girl, was so in awe of sales the name The Fireman, and it’s Youth did more than is at least one per- In “Traveling Light,” a lilting folk as the great musical experi- like sense of beauty that requires clerks like Ms. Mizoe that she markedly different from anything a bit of mixing and 66, really need formance that can ballad buoyed by piano and menter among the Beatles, in effort and practice to attain. To made a flurry of purchases online the duo has released in the past. mastering. Mr. Mc- the cover of stand proudly in flutes, he sings at the bottom of part due to his longevity—his col- create the ideal “supervolume before feeling confident enough to Until now, The Fireman’s Cartney sings and the McCartney his range. “Two Magpies,” a loose- league John Lennon was mur- hair,” curl only a few strands of set foot in the Harajuku store. work—“Strawberries Oceans plays most, if not Youth to do canon: “Sing the limbed folk blues, finds him sing- dered on Dec. 8, 1980—and in hair at a time and alternate be- “Their cuteness is beyond hu- Ships Forest” (Capitol), released all, the instruments, what he wants? Changes,” a bright, ing near the top. And on “Light part due to his temperament. He tween inward and outward curls, man,” says Ms. Oohira. “I’d like to in 1993, and “Rushes” (Capitol), and wrote lyrics to boisterous celebra- From Your Lighthouse,” a foot- was interested in electronic mu- advises Vanilla Girl, a fashion mag- be like them.” issued five years later—could be music that he and tion of life inspired stomping sliver of country folk, sic as early as 1965; made tape azine for teenagers aspiring to be- Of course, princess fashion classified as ambient dance mu- Youth conjured in the studio. The by Paralympic athletes. Over he has it both ways, overdubbing loops that turned up on Beatles come hime girls. Dyed hair exten- isn’t exactly practical. Ms. Yama- sic: Electronic pulses provide the other contributions of Youth, who 12-string guitars and driving per- his voice so he sings the opening recordings; released in 1977 a sions can help form more dynamic moto, the housewife princess, says underpinning to repeating produced Crowded House, De- cussion, he sings, “Feel a sense of verse in both falsetto and a griz- cheesy instrumental-and-vocalese ringlets, while mascara applied on she gave up wearing the frilly themes punctuated by percus- peche Mode, U2 and the Verve, childlike wonder,” a line that an- zly bass. By the way, “Light- version of his album “Ram” un- top of fake eyelashes plus black dresses while she works opening sion, shouts and exclamations, and worked on the new Guns N’ ticipates the listener’s reaction to house” has a very catchy chorus, der the pseudonym Percy liquid eyeliner can really accentu- cardboard boxes at an accessory though if you listen carefully you Roses release “Chinese Democ- the song. There’s a joyous video the kind you can sing before the “Thrills” Thrillington—a ruse ate the eyes. store four hours a day. can hear the occasional fragment racy,” are more difficult to gauge; on YouTube for it in which Mr. song reaches its end. He’s done that went undiscovered for 12 The princess boom has also Ms. Yamamoto says she has “Fifty Fathoms Automatique” of a McCartney recording. You as accomplished as he may be, he McCartney calls the athletes “he- that before, hasn’t he? years; and composed several well- taken off among an unlikely group long adored pink and wanted to (ref. 5015-3630-52) might call The Fireman’s earlier isn’t part of our musical DNA, as roes.” (In fact, there is at least Every now and then, there’s regarded classical pieces. If “Elec- of women: nightclub hostesses dress in feminine clothes, but felt music a rhythmic distant cousin is Mr. McCartney, who’s so identi- one video on YouTube for every an undeniable allusion to the tric Arguments” is one of the bet- who also like the big-hair, glamor- shy about her plump figure. After to the kind of pre-Minimalism of fiable that you’ll recognize his song on “Electric Argument,” pro- Beatles. A chiming George Harri- ter Paul McCartney rock albums ous look, though their dresses are John Cage and Karlheinz Stock- breathing when he plays harmon- viding an easy way to sample it.) son-like guitar part opens “Sing of recent years, it is also another often more revealing. WSJ.com Jesus Diamante started the prin- hausen that was said to influence ica. There’s the temptation to say Throughout the album, the the Changes.” Kicking off with expression of his desire to ex- Hello, Princess “Carnival of Light,” though one that Youth’s presence liberates duo draws on a wide range of the blare of a blues harmonica, pand the boundaries of his art. cess boom. Toyotaka Miyamae, 52, See a video of Japan’s hime girls, suspects the Beatles track Mr. Mc- Mr. McCartney to let it rip. But traditional and synthesized “Nothing Too Much Just Out of who had run an import shop spe- and the opulent boutiques where Cartney alluded to might be a it’s rarely so simple. I mean, does sounds. In “Dance ’til We’re Sight” becomes a brooding piece Mr. Fusilli is the Journal’s rock cializing in evening gowns, set up they like to shop, at the company in Osaka seven years mid-’60s version of his “Liver- Paul McCartney, at age 66, really High,” Mr. McCartney’s voice of heavy rock bound to recall and pop music critic. Email him WSJ.com/Fashion WWW.BLANCPAIN.COM pool Sound Collage” (Capitol), a need cover to do what he wants? flies over staccato strings. Tabla “Helter Skelter.” With its tambou- at [email protected]. ago to design feminine dresses tai-

W10 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 W3 v Arts Classical music with a modern message Washington’s Woodstock British composer Errollyn Wallen’s works are often inspired by history, and by complex social issues By John Jurgensen and Jamin Brophy-Warren By Andi Spicer cause of where I was born. As a be going to Mars. Steve helped me OLLYWOOD celebri- RITISH CONTEMPORARY clas- Composer composer you find your own story with my research and we have ties, Web activists sical music composer Errol- Errollyn Wallen through others. since written a song together and and jet-setters from Blyn Wallen initially trained I was involved with making a around the world are as a dancer at the Dance Theatre Q: Since “Our English Heart,” short film about his space walk, preparing to turn the of Harlem before turning to com- the commissions have started to with him narrating. I’ve sent U.S. presidential inau- position and studying at both Lon- flow recently and your works emails to him in space and he Hguration on Jan. 20 into a mix of don and Cambridge Universities. have become larger in scale. emailed me back. He stayed with Woodstock and Martin Luther She was the first black woman to There was always a steady me in my small London flat and King Jr.’s 1963 speech on the Na- have a piece (“Concerto for Percus- stream of commissions. But once said he didn’t mind because he’d tional Mall. Among the celebrities expected to sion”) played at The Proms in Lon- you’ve written a really big piece stayed in smaller places. While the plans of many top appear at Barack Obama’s (left) don. for orchestra, chorus and soloists politicians and entertainment inauguration (clockwise from above): Born in Belize, Ms. Wallen, 43 you can then do anything. After Q: You’ve contributed a song stars hang on pending details India.Arie, Hill Harper, Rufus years old, moved to England as a Nelson I felt I had developed as an to the piece “Walking down the about the Commander-in- Wainwright, Spike Lee and Oprah child and has become one of the artist in the ability to say some- red dust road,” which is a secu- Chief Ball and other official Winfrey. U.K.’s most promising young com- thing in a very public way but lar requiem for World AIDS Day, events that Mr. Obama is posers. Also a jazz singer and pia- find something very personal in it with seven other well-known likely to attend, dozens of nist, she has played in jazz saxo- too. composers providing music for other big-ticket parties are al- according to her representative: phonist Courtney Pine’s band. settings of HIV-related poems by ready taking shape. The Cre- Obama Girl, aka Amber Ettinger, In 2005, she premiered her cho- Q: Your music uses forms Jackie Kay. ative Coalition, an advocacy whose “I Got a Crush on Obama” mu- ral piece, “Our English Heart,” a such as the cantata and madri- Like many people, I have lost group, will host a ball at the sic video caught fire on the Web. cantata commissioned by BBC Ra- gals. It seems to celebrate Brit- friends and family to AIDS and Harman Center for the Arts. Despite George W. Bush’s low ap- dio 3 to mark the 200th anniver- ishness, as with the English Folk I’m keen to contribute my talents Spike Lee will be at the event, proval rating, the Texas State Soci- sary of the Battle of Trafalgar and Songs, which will be premiered to help fight, not only AIDS but Susan Sarandon is likely to at- ety’s Black Tie & Boots ball is ex- the death of Admiral Lord Nelson. next year. the poverty from which it comes— tend and the group is in discus- pected to be a big draw. Some 9,500 Her music combines popular I should be free to tell any poverty of knowledge and the pov- sions with such musicians as tickets at about $200 each have forms with flashes of the avant- story I want to tell. “Carbon 12” is erty of deprivation. It seems unbe- Elvis Costello to perform. Tick- been sold so far for the party at the garde. And her works often tackle about the coal mines in South lievable that the disease still flour- ets to the fund-raiser, where di- new Gaylord National Resort Hotel complicated issues, such as those Wales. You could say, what do I ishes unnecessarily. Last Novem- rector Barry Levinson will be in the emerging National Harbor in her opera “The Silent Twins,” know about that? But I make it ber I was in Belize performing in shooting final scenes for a film complex across the Potomac River. about the love-hate relationship of my business to know. It’s one a charity concert to raise money called “Poliwood,” a documentary Expect to see lassoes draped over two British-born Barbadian twin small instance of what it is to be a for The Hand In Hand mission, about Hollywood’s involvement in fences, performances by country girls who had their own secret lan- composer living now and telling which helps all those affected the presidential race, are still avail- stars such as Jack Ingram, and fe- guage and misunderstood literary the stories of our time. The re- with the disease. We visited one able—a $10,000 “bronze” package male attendees in “full-length se- creativity, eventually leading to im- sponsibility to tell that story is of the centers which cares for ba- admits two. quined ball gowns, large Texas hair prisonment and tragedy. just as great to tell as the story of bies and I was powerfully affected Love, one of the few Washington and eel-skin cowboy boots,” says Her latest piece is “Carbon slavery. by the work the team was doing nightclubs that sees a steady flow of Jenifer Sarver, the society’s histo- 12—A Choral Symphony,” about there. The concert was a highlight celebrities, is adding tents to triple rian and media chairwoman. South Wales and coal miners. She Q: The chamber opera “An- of my career. its capacity to about 7,000. “The last The grassroots masses that Vipul Sangoi, Raindesign What’s in store has also written “Mighty River,” other America Fire” involves a time we had that many people it was helped push Mr. Obama to victory an orchestral work to celebrate and female in your career as a to tell stories about the experi- black astronaut preparing to go Q: How did the commission for Beyoncé,” says owner Marc are using familiar strategies to the 200th anniversary of the aboli- composer? ences of black people in Britain? to Mars in 2014 and you had come about for the song? Barnes about a concert with Ms. for the Obama mount celebrations. For election tion of slavery in Britain. I’ll never know the full answer, There’s a point where the mu- help from your friend, the astro- Les Pratt of BBC Radio 3 ap- Knowles in 2002. night, Curtis Midkiff Jr., a 34-year- Her composition “All the Peo- but I try to be myself. There’s cer- sic has to speak for itself. Growing naut Steve MacLean, who has proached me and several other Many of Mr. Obama’s supporters inauguration old marketer living in Washington, ple of the World” will be per- tainly been times when it’s been up in England, I’d find there’d be taken your music into space in composers to each write a move- in Hollywood kept a low profile dur- used online social networks to orga- formed on Dec. 1, World AIDS Day, good for me. But I’m more compli- complexities and contradictions. the Space Shuttle and to the In- ment. My piece “All the People of ing the campaign, in part because of nize a party on U Street, a hub of by the Halle Orchestra and Halle cated than that. The music comes At home, as a child, we’d eat ternational Space Station. the World” ends the series. The efforts by Sen. John McCain to cast Observers have been handicap- black nightlife that saw some of the Youth Choir, conducted by Sir before me and if I want to be a meals like steak and kidney pud- Yes, I made up the story as I [orchestral] forces will be the his opponent as a celebrity. The inau- ping the musical picks since Nov. 5. city’s most feverish celebrations Mark Elder at Bridgewater Hall, in good composer, it has to be like ding with rice, which wasn’t done really love working with text. The same as that of Faure’s Requiem, guration offers a chance for celebri- The odds favor artists who have per- that night. On the morning of Nov. 5, Manchester, U.K. being a good mathematician. by other English families. I started date 2014 was given to me by which is included in the concert. ties to come out of the shadows. formed at official Obama events, Mr. Midkiff formed a Facebook We interviewed Ms. Wallen at to compose and still compose be- Steve MacLean as to when it was Proceeds will go to the Mission Oprah Winfrey, for example, plans such as the singers John Legend, group for potential inauguration vis- her home in London’s historic Q: Do you feel a responsibility cause of the love of music, not be- originally thought that we would Malawi for Action Aid. to be on hand, and so does the Chicago native Jennifer Hudson and itors, which has grown to nearly Greenwich, on the banks of the singer India.Arie. Invitations go out Bruce Springsteen. Mr. Springsteen applications as of the deadline last 15,000 members, and he’s planning Thames. in December for a party being is releasing a new album the week af- week, up from 375 applications in several parties, including a Wel- hosted by real-estate mogul and rents for up to $50,000 an event. ter the new president is sworn in 2005. come to D.C. gala and a party for pro Q: Your themes have become Obama insider R. Donahue Peebles, The international jet-set is con- that features a title song, “Working Some of the most determined athletes. very British over the past few his wife Katrina and an evolving list verging, too. Quintessentially, a lux- on a Dream,” that he first played at hopefuls include major artists. Anxiety about the economy and years as well as exploring the of celebrity co-hosts, including Star ury lifestyle service based in more an Obama rally. Tresa Sanders, a record-label repre- other factors are keeping some black condition in the context of Can old masters weather the economic storm? Jones and Chris Tucker, at the posh than 40 world cities, says the major- Congressional organizers are sentative for Mary J. Blige, the rap- party planners in check. Andrew modern Britain. Do you identify Georgetown Club. The invitation- ity of its dozens of inauguration re- looking for ways to expand capacity per Common and other high-profile Gerstel, vice president of Windows with some of the characters of LD MASTERS, WHICH are ex- degli Scrigni, with the campanile and sculpture. only event for a few hundred guests quests have come from abroad. For for Mr. Obama’s swearing-in cere- recording artists, says she’s been Catering Co. in Alexandria, Va., says your operas, such as in “The Si- Opected to weather the current of Santa Maria della Carità” (esti- Still lifes with flowers, fruits will kick off at midnight after offi- members, whose dues run from mony beyond the 240,000 tickets al- keeping in touch with Obama orga- many of his potential clients, includ- lent Twins”? market downturn better than con- mate: £3 million-£5 million). The and vegetables are a must at old cial festivities on Jan. 20. $1,500 to $40,000 annually, the com- lotted. City officials are preparing nizers in hopes of positioning her ing big law firms and lobbying There’s so many modern Brit- temporary art, are the focus of Lon- two paintings are appearing at auc- master sales. Painted with great At the fifth Bytes and Books Inau- pany will be supplying everything for millions to converge on the Mall. artists for a performance slot. groups that typically hold parade- ish stories that haven’t been told. don auctions next week. The hype tion for the first time ever. detail, “they are not too academic gural Ball, the National Coalition for from local wardrobe stylists and Destination DC, a tourism non- Less-than-famous performers, watching parties, are weighing There’s a treasure trove between The Brueghel dynasty is one of and have a huge appeal,” says An- Technology In Education and Train- rental homes (minimum $25,000 profit, says that they expect the including local cover bands and acts which bash to scratch—holiday or World War I and the 1950s, a the most famous families in art his- drew McKenzie, the old master ing plans to honor George Lucas and for three days), to tickets to the offi- 2009 event to be larger than the 1.2 like the Strolling Strings, will per- inauguration. “They say, ‘We don’t place where there’s lots of excit- Collecting tory. Sotheby’s on Dec. 3 will offer specialist at Bonhams. The cover Sen. Ted Kennedy at its $2,500-per- cial presidential balls, which head of million that reportedly attended form at the Illinois State Society’s have the budget for both.’ But they ing journeys. Britain’s a place with MARGARET STUDER four works by various Brueghels lot at Bonhams on Dec. 3 is a gor- couple event (for the lowest-tiered marketing Jaclyn Gower says Quint- one of the largest inaugurations, ball—but it’s a hot ticket nonethe- know it might send the wrong mes- lots of comings and goings be- with the star lot “The Kermesse of geous still life by Dutch artist Jan sponsorship). Sen. Kennedy under- essentially can supply in limited Lyndon B. Johnson’s in 1965. less. Mr. Obama has been sent an in- sage if they don’t celebrate the inau- cause of the sea. There’s a lot of Saint George” by Pieter Brueghel van Os (1744-1808) with a composi- went surgery for a brain tumor this numbers. Meanwhile, as Mr. Obama’s tran- vite to his home state’s bash, but guration of a new president, much people who grew up British and that caused the run-up in prices the Younger (1564-1637/38), a can- tion of roses, irises, carnations year. Hill Harper, an actor on “CSI: sition team moves quickly to fill his there’s no guarantee he’ll show, less an historic one such as Barack never fitted in. for contemporary works passed vas with villagers in festival mood and other flowers (estimate: The Human Rights Campaign NY” and a former Harvard Law cabinet, his inaugural crew is also says Executive Chairman Suzanne Obama,” Mr. Gerstel says. As for the twins, their relation- by this traditionally more stable as they dance, drink and eat (esti- £600,000-£800,000). Foundation expects 2,000 people, School classmate of Mr. Obama, will gearing up. A former Obama cam- New: “We know he had a good time But for many attendees, parties ship was every relationship. To sector. mate: £2.5 million-£3.5 million). A Dec. 9 sale at Sotheby’s will many from the gay and lesbian com- be co-hosting an after-hours party paign staffer, Emmett Beliveau, was in 2005 and we hope he’s going to will take a back seat to witnessing to most people they were just two “There was little speculation” Sotheby’s evening sale of paint- feature marine paintings, includ- munity, at its “Equality Ball” at the modeled on other wee-hour soirees appointed earlier this month to come back for another one.” Filling history, Mr. Midkiff says. “As long as mutes who were considered sub- in the old master segment, says ings will also feature a portrait, “A ing dramatic images of sailing Mayflower Hotel on the evening of during the campaign that he threw head the Presidential Inaugural three floors of the Renaissance Ho- they’re on the Mall, their story will Sotheby's normal. It was an adaptation of Paul Raison, who heads Christie’s Jovial Violinist Holding a Glass of ships braving the elements on the the Inauguration. Celebrity guests with fellow Hollywood fund-raisers, Committee that will make decisions tel, the party will spotlight points of be how they felt it. It won’t matter the book by Marjorie Wallace of old master department. ‘A Jovial Violinist Holding a Wine,” by the Dutch master Hen- high seas or fighting for control of will include Melissa Etheridge, including Nicole Avant, Mr. Obama’s on everything from the locations for state pride, including a version of that they saw it on a Jumbotron, the lives of June and Jennifer Gib- In the last major art-market Glass of Wine’ (circa 1627), by drick Ter Brugghen (1588-1629), the seaways. An example is Cyndi Lauper and Rufus Wain- California finance co-chairwoman. the official balls to the marching Chicago’s Steppenwolf Theatre and what will matter will be that they bons. This was such a disturbing slowdown, in the early 1990s, old Hendrick Ter Brugghen; estimated at £250,000-£350,000. Thomas Luny’s “The destruction wright. With the entertainment world de- bands who will parade down Penn- the state fair. Some 2,000 dinner were there.” story and based on a true story. It masters were “affected, but less,” estimate: £250,000-£350,000. The painting comes from the col- of the Santo Domingo. The Battle The Newseum, a glass and mar- scending on Washington, Ms. Avant sylvania Avenue. (A representative tickets for $500 each have sold out, —Ellen Gamerman contributed was emotionally exhausting to says Alex Bell, world-wide head of lection of Italian industrialist-col- of Cape St. Vincent. 16th January ble museum on Pennsylvania Ave- says, “there will be more celebrities of the Obama transition team de- but $300 tickets for the ball itself to this article. write and when you’re writing old master paintings at Sotheby’s. striking Venetian views by Canal- lector Luigi Koelliker. 1780,” an important moment in nue dedicated to news, has booked than we’ve ever had.” She has some clined an interview request.) are available. about living people, you have to He says he expects buyers to be etto: “The Piazzetta di San Marco, In a separate sale on the same the European involvement in the 10 private parties during inaugura- concerns about how she and her co- Mr. Obama’s inaugural commit- Tickets are sold out for another find the truth in the story, you more selective with marginal Venice, looking west, with the Li- day, Sotheby’s will offer the con- American War of Independence, tion week. Jay Norris, managing hosts will include regular support- tee is sifting through a deluge of par- state event with a chance for a presi- WSJ.com have to delve into their characters pieces, which are harder to sell, but breria” (estimate £4 million-£6 tents of Milan-based Mr. Koellik- when a British fleet beat Spain, partner of Lifestyle Communica- ers in the celebrity-heavy crowd. ticipation requests. The Armed dential appearance: Hawaii, where Capital ideas and delineate their characters. for top-end works to still do well. million) and “The Grand Canal, er’s London residence, which he is which had taken the side of the tions, a brand development firm “It’s important that the tone re- Forces Inaugural Committee, which Mr. Obama was raised. The state so- See inauguration trip-planning tips The main attractions at Venice, looking north-west from giving up, filled with not only Americans (estimate: based in New York, says he plans an mains consistent with the tone of processes the applications from ciety’s ball will be held at the Manda- for all income levels, at Q: Do you think it’s been a Christie’s on Dec. 2 will be two the Ca’ Corner to the Ca’ Contarini paintings but ceramics, furniture £30,000-£50,000). invitation-only “worldly, eclectic the whole campaign, which is very groups that wish to march in the pa- rin Oriental Hotel. One star of the WSJ.com/Travel help or hindrance being black celebration” in the museum, which inclusive,” adds Mr. Harper. rade, had received more than 1,300 campaign who could be attending,

W4 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 W9 v Travel v Sports Tourists warm up to Syria Playing through the hard times

By Brooke Anderson ’M NOT BIG ON predictions, but more innovators to fight it out in a Special to The Wall Street Journal I do keep an eye out for silver lin- Virginia Van Wie at the recession. Damascus, Syria Iings. There’s a chance, if we’re 1934 U.S. Women’s SunCor Golf, for instance, man- HEN FRENCH President Nicolas lucky, that the current economic cri- Amateur Championship. ages six golf facilities in Arizona and Sarkozy visited here in September af- sis could make golf a better game. one in Utah and thus far this year Wter hosting Syrian President Bashar I base this hope on the conversa- has seen zero drop in either rounds Assad earlier in Paris, he went a long way to- tions I had last week with several played or revenue, according to the ward breaking this Mediterranean nation’s Alamy (4) smart people in the golf industry company’s executive vice president, diplomatic isolation. coming in from the diplomatic cold. There and on what the game went through Tom Patrick. To keep prices low it But tourists, many of them European, have have been several important high-level visits has reduced some nonessential ser- been warming to Syria for some time. Part of from Western politicians during the past few vices (like those tip-hungry bag the appeal has been the charm and relative months, the most recent being from British Golf Journal boys who trot out to help you with ease of getting around in a place that hasn’t Foreign Secretary David Miliband on Nov. 18. JOHN PAUL NEWPORT your bag) and scaled back mainte- turned into the type of mass tourism destina- Mr. Assad won praise for endorsing the Leba- nance standards in certain months tion that other Arab countries like Morocco or non power-sharing deal, and he’s even con- so that its courses are not quite so Egypt have become. Syria offers inexpensive ducting indirect peace talks with longtime en- in the Great Depression. The similar- artificially green. These changes, to and reliable public transportation and its tour- emy Israel. European countries, particularly ities between golf in that era and my mind, are a plus no matter what ist attractions are not thronged with crowds. Turkey and France, have been directly in- this are not precise, but they are at effect they have on cost; they make Stephen Wagner, a 27-year-old paramedic volved in the discussions. least as strong as the similarities be- golf less needlessly fancy and im- student from Leipzig, Germany, and a fan of Still, Syria’s recent political history can de- tween the stock-market crash of prove its environmental impact. Middle Eastern culture, recently spent nearly ter visitors—especially Americans. The U.S. 1929 and the current meltdown, and And thus far SunCor’s customers three weeks traveling through Syria. Friends designated Syria a state sponsor of terrorism my economic-journalist colleagues seem to buy into the bargain, too. told him it was an easier place for foreigners to in 1979 and has issued a number of sanctions are all over that. Another possible consequence visit than other Arab countries—with no tour- against the country. It pulled its ambassador For golf, the 1920s were a Golden of an extended recession, as in the ist traps and fewer hassles from street ven- out a few years ago after accusing Syria of com- Age, headlined by a boom in new Great Depression, could be more dors. “I was in Morocco in the spring, but I plicity in the assassination of Lebanon’s prime courses and the hero-worship of participation by members of hith- found it too aggressive toward tourists, with minister. (Syria denies involvement.) Bobby Jones. The 1990s into the erto underrepresented demo- people always trying to sell things,” Mr. Wag- There is no ban on Americans visiting early 2000s has often been called graphic groups. A promising initia- ner says. “I heard Syria was completely differ- Syria, but the U.S. State Department advises golf’s second Golden Age, epito- tive called Get Golf Ready, launched ent. And it’s true.” its citizens to think twice before traveling mized by another explosion of new last week by Golf 20/20, a consor- Spaniard Luis Olivares, who also made a re- there, warning among other things that tour- courses and the glamour of Tiger USGA Archives tium of major golf organizations, cent trip to the country, adds: “I like the hospi- ists could be the target of extremist attacks in- Woods. Most golf histories depict courses in the U.S., opening up the Foundation. “Golf is their passion, so, golf-course operators have be- hopes to engage adult beginners, es- tality and the fact that it’s easy to move side the country. The U.S. Embassy in Dam- the 1930s as a bleak and uneventful game to thousands. Women, forced it’s what they do, it’s central to their come increasingly sophisticated at pecially women and minorities. It of- around here.” ascus was attacked two years ago by assail- period: Mr. Jones retired from com- by circumstances to work outside lives,” Mr. Stine says. They don’t managing their businesses. They’ve fers a standardized $99 bundle of Drawn by a handful of new, boutique hotels ants with two vehicles laden with explosives. petition in 1930 after winning the the home, took up the game in un- stop playing. had to because overall demand has small-group, on-course lessons and in Damascus, an Old City that officials are But Syrian officials have also played a big Grand Slam, and golf clubs by the precedented numbers. And the pro- Golf’s core players are also a bit been flat and the supply of courses, etiquette advice. For newcomers to slowly restoring, and an overseas-marketing part in this year’s tourism boom. The Syrian hundreds were boarded up. But the fessional tour, though it struggled fi- more affluent than typical consum- swollen by the imprudent building the game, the industry’s willingness campaign, the number of foreign visitors has government is in the process of restoring Dam- era actually was transformative, nancially, began to establish itself in ers, which further insulates the in- boom of the 1990s, has been roughly to do whatever it takes to attract risenby50% thisyear compared with lastyear, ascus’s Old City, a warren of ancient churches, says Rand Jerris, director of the U.S. the public imagination as charis- dustry from slowdowns. “When it 10% too high. Many of the weakest and retain customers could make according to the Syrian ministry of tourism. mosques, Turkish baths and restaurants. Golf Association Museum in New matic pros like Walter Hagen and By- comes to retail sales in a recession, courses and operators already have this a good time to make the plunge. At just over seven million visitors in 2007, Tourism officials have also stepped up ef- Jersey. ron Nelson stole the limelight from core golfers are like bobbers on the been weeded out, leaving relatively Email [email protected]. the boost is helping Syria catch up with some forts to attract European and Asian visitors, “This was the period during the blue-blood amateurs, like Mr. fishing line. They’re the last to go un- of the region’s more established tourist desti- launching big-budget promotional campaigns which golf became acceptable to a Jones, who had dominated golf until der and the first to pop up,” says Ca- nations, like Egypt, which drew 10.6 million vis- across Europe. They’ve descended on tourism much wider range of people,” he then. When golf blossomed again af- sey Alexander, the golf-industry ana- itors last year, according to the World Travel & fairs in Milan, Berlin, Brussels and Moscow, as says. Many of those defunct private ter World War II, it was a different lyst at Gilford Securities in New Tourism Council, a London-based trade group. Clockwise from top right: a coppersmith at work well asBeijing and Tokyo. Damascus’s turn this clubs reopened as public ones. The game. York. The growth comes despite occasional inci- in Aleppo; the Roman theater in Bosra; a camel year as Unesco’s Arab “Cultural Capital” has Works Progress Administration Changes on that scale are not Mr. Alexander expects retail dents of violence that take place in the city outside the entrance to the Palmyra ruins; the created buzz within the region. “Everything built more than 100 new golf possible now. Golf these days is a equipment sales to fall 8% or more and elsewhere in the region. Hezbollah fight- Umayyad Mosque in Damascus. came together this year,” says Faisal Najati, a $76 billion industry, according to a for the second half of this year and ers in next-door Lebanon took to the streets tourism-ministry official in Damascus. study commissioned by the PGA of into next year, which is more than in of Beirut in the spring, but then quickly with- In addition to its well-known desert— America and allied groups. But if the previous downturns, but for golfers Claus Riedel’s legendaRy design fRom1958. drew. After a power-sharing deal there, that is always safe. There is risk everywhere.” Palmyra, a three-hour bus ride from Dam- Arbitrage economy experiences a prolonged to spend freely to catch up once the a fish Bowl? Beirut’s legendary parties, nightlife and “Terrorism here isn’t a greater risk than in ascus, is an oasis with lush green palm trees recession, there could be some sig- tide turns. “Imagine going three beach clubs are back in full swing. Relative to car bomb—a rarity in this tightly controlled London,” says Cathy Stancer, a Briton having and has some of the best Roman ruins in the nificant long-term consequences years without buying a new laptop the rest of the Middle East, the past several police state—detonated on the road leading lunch recently at Al Kaseda Al Demashkieh, a Middle East—Syria offers Mediterranean Brita Marella for golf. or a new cellphone. That’s how golf- months have been peaceful in Syria’s tourist to the city’s airport, killing at least 17. Hotels restaurant in a newly restored Damascene beaches mostly devoid of large crowds. Its Golf through the last few down- ers feel without a new driver,” he ex- areas. Syrians claim U.S. forces killed eight ci- say they aren’t seeing canceled bookings. house on Straight Street in the Old City. two main coastal cities, Tartous and Latakkia, Cool water jug turns has fared relatively well. “It plains. vilians in late October in a cross-border incur- “The violence in Syria hasn’t been in tour- Syria had been considered a pariah state both a couple of hours’ drive north of Dam- isn’t recession proof, but neither If that’s the case for stability, the sion near the Iraqi border. But the incident, ist areas, unlike in Egypt, Israel and Yemen,” by Western and Arab governments alike just a ascus, have undergone major renovations in does it have those 20% or 30% peaks case for change is that a lingering re- still not completely acknowledged by the U.S., says Sabine Bachstein-Hallaje, a German tour few months ago because of its alleged med- recent years. Chic restaurants have opened up and valleys that some other indus- cession will force the industry to re- took place far from Damascus. guide who has been leading groups in Syria dling in Lebanese politics and its support of along the waterfronts, and new high-end ho- tries have,” says Tom Stine, a co- spond in new ways to golfers’ two Even recent violence in Damascus itself for the past 20 years. “After Sept. 11, people the Palestinian group Hamas and Lebanon’s tels are on the way. There are also breathtak- founder of Golf Datatech, a leading major complaints about the game: hasn’t put off tourists so far. In September, a are now adapted. They know there is no place militant group Hezbollah. Now, the country is ing mountains near the border with Turkey. industry statistic-keeper. Golf the time it takes to play a round, and Both Damascus and its northern rival rounds played this year were down the cost. Aleppo have vibrant and attractive Old Cities. 1.4% through September, the latest Golfers might still play in reces- In addition to their ancient citadels and souks month for which data are available, sionary times, but not necessarily or open-air markets, the streets offer a rare and retail spending on equipment as many holes or at the same price TURKEY window on traditional Middle East life. Mer- was down 3.4%, according to Golf point. In lean time they learn that Trip planner: Seeing Damascus chants play backgammon on the cobblestone Datatech. “That’s down, but it’s not twilight rounds, nine-hole rounds streets until the middle of the night. Crafts- that bad,” Mr. Stine said. and discounted rounds at off-peak Where to stay roof terrace, on Medhat Basha Street by Al men work on mosaic boxes and pottery in The game’s resistance to eco- hours are enough to satisfy their Hamidieh Souk. Guests are treated to home- front of their workshops. Locals often invite nomic swings is rooted in the avid- golf Jones, and the savviest opera- Syria has hotels for all budgets. For five- style Syrian food as well flat bread made Aleppo foreigners into their homes for large family ity of its core players, who number tors are learning how to keep their sommelieRs star service, go to the Four Seasons, Dam- right in the middle of the main dining room. Latakkia meals. (depending on the definition ap- proportional piece of the pie by at- ascus’ newest luxury hotel. The standard BuRgundy For inexpensive bistro dining and quick I A Damascus is also a perfect base for day plied) from eight million to 12 mil- tracting more of that kind of busi- rate for a room there is Œ205, Œ230 with R service, Shamiat, just above the President’s Tartous S Y trips outside the city. It’s an hour’s drive to the lion, out of 29.5 million U.S. golfers ness. gRand CRu (37 oz) breakfast. (% 963-11-339-1000, www. bridge, is a favorite with locals and foreign- Aramaic-speaking village of Maaloula (its pop- total, according to the National Golf In the past half-dozen years or fourseasons.com/damascus). ers alike. ulation is about 70% Christian), the Roman Local Maaloula If you’re looking to soak up the atmo- theater in Bosra, and some of the oldest City currency Œ LEBANON Damascus sphere of the Old City, Beit Zaman is one of What to do IRAQ churches in the world. Foreigners can safely several boutique hotels converted from re- London £15 Œ17.64 Decanter Magazine: “The Finest burgundy glass of all Damascus has so much to offer, most peo- Bosra and easily take buses from depots in Dam- stored Damascene houses. Single rooms ple leave without visiting all that they want 0 100 Km ascus, with round-trip fares at less than Œ2. Brussels Œ18.99 Œ18.99 time, suitable for both young and old burgundies”. start at Œ110, and deluxe suites are Œ375 the wine aDvocate, roBert ParKer Jr.: to see in one trip. ISRAEL But there are some logistical challenges. A “The finest (% 963-11-543-5380, www.beit-zaman. JORDAN Here, some sights not to be missed: tourist visa, obtained through local Syrian em- Paris Œ19.45 Œ19.45 glasses for both technical and hedonistic purposes are those com). The Umayyad Mosque is a former church bassies, can cost as much as Œ100, depending Frankfurt Œ20 Œ20 made by Riedel. The effect of these glasses on fine wine is Where to eat whose architectural history dates back to pa- on nationality, and can take as long as two gan times. Hanania Church, in the Christian gained down to a reasonable price. weeks to process. Rome Œ25 Œ25 profound. I cannot emphasize enough what a difference they The Four Seasons has three restaurants— Quarter of the Old City, is where Saul be- No visit to the Old City would be com- For some visitors, the hassles can continue make”. tiMe Magazine: “The Riedel family has never Safran (featuring international cuisine), Il came Paul and converted to Christianity. plete without visiting some of the best re- even after getting a visa. Jonathan Hagelstein, Tokyo ¥4,106 Œ33.04 stamped its name on a single bottle of wine. But over the past Circo (Italian) and Al Halabi (Syrian cui- The Hamidieh Souk is a large Ottoman- stored Damascene houses, including the a 32-year-old banker from New York City, said 50 years, this Austrian clan of master glassmakers has done sine)—for high-end dining. Hong Kong HK$358 Œ35.69 era market where one can find spices from Danish Cultural Center by Medhat Basha he was questioned for five hours by Syrian bor- more to enhance the oenophile’s pleasure than almost any For the Old City experience, go to Kha- around the world, traditional Arab clothing, Street, in Souk al Soof, as well as Maktab An- der guards on his way from visiting Lebanon. Note: 2.4-liter size; prices, including taxes, as winemaking dynasty”. www.rieDel.coM waly, a restored Damascene house with a handicrafts and almost any item can be bar- bar near Straight Street’s Roman arch. Still, he says, once he got in, “I felt safer in provided by retailers in each city, averaged and A WPA-built clubhouse in New Orleans. Syria than in many other areas in the region.” converted into euros. Louisiana Division/City Archives, New Orleans Public Library

W8 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 W5 v Travel

Five to watch Here are some of the athletes expected to be medal contenders at Visiting Vancouver, well before the Games begin the 2010 Winter Olympics.

By Kevin Helliker The Vancouver skyline; below, speedskaters practice at the Richmond Oval—an Olympic venue; left, Stanley Park. Vancouver, British Columbia T’S NOT TOO EARLY to start planning a trip to the 2010 Winter Olympics. But here’s an idea that might be even better: Check out Vancouver this season.

economic downturn. city offers top Sidney Crosby t In February alone, the Vancouver After failing to win a single gold area is hosting World Cup races in athletes and medal at the 1988 Calgary Games or luge, snowboarding, freestyle skiing the 1976 Games in Montreal, Canada and bobsledding, along with an inter- needs home-field redemption. The low prices—now Corbis national figure-skating competition. most coveted prize—a gold medal The events will be held on the same in hockey—could depend on the per- trails and in the same arenas that ing boost to winter tourism—and membered. But unforgettable are Furlong, the chief executive of the lo- in an array of ethnic restaurants. formance of Mr. Crosby, the nation’s will be used 15 months from now, winter prices—even if the Opening the panoramic shots of Sydney’s cal Olympics organizing committee, Downtown can feel like Paris one 21-year-old superstar center. guaranteeing participation by many and Closing ceremonies here fail to pristine beaches, blue-green waters praised the Beijing Games. But while block, Manhattan the next, and bike of the world’s best athletes. (In what match the choreographic wizardry and gorgeous urban skyline. Vancou- attending them he and his col- shops seem to compete on every Vancouver boasts is the earliest of last summer’s Games in Beijing; ver can hope for a similar effect. leagues saw “windows of opportu- block. The waterfront area, which state of readiness in modern Olym- the staged theatrics there drew at- Rankings of international cities in nity” to outshine China, he said, hint- borders three sides of downtown, pic history, most of the venues for tention away from the city’s polluted terms of natural beauty, architec- ing at fuller attendance, better night- was teeming one evening last week the games are already completed.) air and dingy neighborhoods, and tural diversity, cultural richness life and richer cultural offerings. with cyclists, tourists and joggers. A The purpose is to give the venues from China’s political oppression. and quality of life routinely place Half of Vancouver’s residents center of fishing, lumber and high- a high-stakes test run, and to give For Vancouver, the more apt com- Vancouver first in North America speak a first language other than En- tech concerns, Vancouver is also competitors some knowledge of the parison is Sydney, Australia. Little and within the top five globally. glish—Chinese in many cases, along North America’s third-largest film- courses. For tourists, attendance about the Opening Ceremonies for In a speech this month to the Van- with French—giving the city an in- making center, after Los Angeles will either be free or cost a fraction the 2000 Summer Games there is re- couver business community, John ternational flavor that is reflected and New York. of the price of an Olympic ticket. Moreover, a one-year Olympic But for gold-medal groupies and cultural celebration, kicking off in non-sports fans alike, the main argu- February, will feature performances ment for visiting this winter is that by Canada’s Sarah McLachlan, Isra- Vancouver might never be this el’s Batsheva Dance Company and cheap again. The city’s sea-to-moun- others. The Canadian Press/Associated Press taintop beauty, rich cultural offer- Trip planner: Vancouver at its best In a city with a sizable radical po- ings and diverse recreational oppor- litical element, there have already game alone—for which the Cana- meters, boast 3,240 skiable hect- “When you’ve been down the tunities have long made it one of the Where to stay been more Olympic protests than dian public will receive 4,000 tick- ares—more than 50% larger than course, you see and know things

world’s top tourism magnets—but were allowed during the entire total- ets—the Committee received Colorado’s Vail resort—and more that no television camera can cap- t The city’s first-class hotels, Vancouver 2010 Competition Venues for only half the year. The world’s itarian Games in Beijing. Much of 140,000 requests. than 200 trails, making it North ture, like the true steepness of a including the Four Seasons and Dale Begg-Smith love affair with Vancouver, located the controversy involves allega- Most hotels here have yet to America’s largest ski area and one slope,” says Tag Kleiner, a the Pan Pacific, have some new Whistler an hour north of the U.S. border on tions that nearly every Olympics place their inventory on the market of its steepest. The resort is a two- 100-days-a-winter Rocky Mountain Of greater interest than whether coaches who pressured him to spend competitors, including the Canada’s Pacific Coast, is largely a host city eventually faces—cost for the 2010 Games, which will run hour drive from Vancouver, along skier who traversed the Olympic Dale Begg-Smith will defend his less time on his Internet startup 77-room Loden. The luxury bou- summer dalliance, reflected in the Garibaldi overruns and unexpected burdens Feb. 12 through Feb. 28. But early ev- one of North America’s most beauti- trails ahead of the 2002 Salt Lake Olympic gold medal in the freestyle (which ultimately earned him a for- tique hotel (lodenvancouver. Provincial moguls competition is whether Ca- tune), so he moved to Australia and 100% jump in hotel rates from Febru- Park CANADA on the taxpayer. But there has also idence suggests strong demand for ful coastal highways. City Games. com) opened in October and is Area of nadians will cheer or boo the Van- won a gold under that country’s flag ary to August. detail been some disgruntlement about packages that are highly expensive. A new draw this winter: On Dec. Still, no matter how beautiful This fair-weather passion has offering a grand-opening rate Olympic disruptions to Vancouver’s Of seven hotel-and-ticket packages 12, Whistler Blackcomb will open Vancouver looks to the rest of the couver native. As a teenager, he be- in 2006. He’ll attempt to do so again in Vancouver. never made much sense. A step into of $155 a night. Even the five- UNITED STATES lifestyle. starting Feb. 12 being offered Peak 2 Peak, a $52 million gondola world, no matter how efficiently it came disenchanted with Canadian the blistering August desert in diamond Sutton Place (vancou- As the largest city ever to host through CoSport, the official ticket that will set world records for operates the Games, Canadians will ver.suttonplace.com) is offering West Scottsdale, Ariz., for example, illus- Vancouver the Winter Games (the metropoli- agency of the U.S. Olympic Commit- height as well as length of unsup- be devastated if 2010 turns out to be trates the shortcomings of visiting deals: a one-night stay this 0 20 Km tan population is 2.2 million), Van- tee, five already are sold out and all ported free span, according to re- a repeat of 1988, the last time this some places off-season. But despite month totaled $165, including Vancouver couver will be able to offer greater- involve room rates above the winter sort officials. The lift will enable ski- nation played host to the Winter the frosty image of Canadian win- valet parking and a minibar Richmond than-usual hotel capacity. But early average here. A three-night double- ers to move from one mountain to Games, when their athletes failed to ters, the off-season in Vancouver raid. BRITISH COLUMBIA(Can) indications suggest that demand for occupancy stay at the Sheraton Van- the other without making the long win a single gold medal at Calgary,

Strait of t isn’t frigid and white. It is lush and Georgia tickets also will be extraordinary, couver—including a pair of tickets crossing at the base, where lift lines Alberta. And that followed an utter Joannie Rochette What to do WASHINGTON(USA) green, with temperatures rarely re- particularly in a nation obsessed to two events plus the Opening Cere- can be lengthy. dearth of gold at the 1976 Summer A figure-skating surprise in Van- Walk, run or cycle the sea- quiring anything heavier than a with winter sport. Earlier this monies—is selling for $20,800. (The Vistors this winter will also have Games in Montreal. So Olympic offi- couver could be the 22-year-old Ms. wall that stretches 22 kilome- jacket. True, winter here can be rant (crestaurant.com), where a enjoyed as a shuttle passenger, month, Vancouver Olympic officials total face value of the tickets is the chance to try out some of the cials in Canada have launched an ini- Rochette, a four-time Canadian ters around Vancouver. Rent a rainy. But at dusk, the drizzly winter basted-lobster entree costs especially since no car is disclosed that the first five-week about $4,000.) By contrast, a room Olympic courses, an experience that tiative called Own the Podium 2010, national champion who finished sailboat or take a harbor cruise mist enhances the dream-like allure $38. A frequent recipient of needed at Whistler, which has window for ticket requests by Cana- at the Sheraton this February can be die-hard ski bums and snowboard- which has raised millions of corpo- fifth in Torino. Home-field advan- (boatcruises.com). Shop the of the lighted bridges spanning its best-local-dining awards, West 90 restaurants and about 5,000 dians produced four times what Salt had for about $125 a night. ers say heightens the appreciation rate dollars to provide athletes with tage, along with a recent surge in boutiques at the intersection of harbors. On many winter days here, Restaurant (westrestaurant. hotel beds. Information about Lake City officials received from Mountain events at the 2010 of watching the Games on television. top-of-the-line equipment and in- her performances—just this month a morning of skiing in the moun- Burrard and Alberni streets. com), specializes in regional fa- shuttles from Vancouver and Americans ahead of the 2002 Games will be split between the struction, and also gin up public en- WSJ.com she won an international title in tains can be followed by an after- vorites such as Okanagan veni- the airport can be found at Games—even though Canada’s pop- peaks outside Vancouver and Whis- couragement. Paris—could put her on the 2010 noon of sailing, cycling and golf. Where to eat son, $33. whistlerblackcomb.com. ulation is a little more than a tenth tler Blackcomb, which ski enthusi- “If our athletes don’t do well,” Let the pre-Games begin medal stand. It goes without saying that a This city’s most notable the size. Of 170 total events, 120 re- asts rate among the world’s top des- concedes Mr. Furlong of the Vancou- Whistler Hotel offerings range from See a calendar of some of the world- $200-a-night first-class hotel room food comes from the sea, and the Fairmont (starting at $310 ceived an overabundance of re- tinations for the quality and quan- class competitions taking place this ver Olympics organizing commit- this February will cost more than no seafood is more highly The gorgeous two-hour a night) to the Holiday Inn quests, requiring lotteries, accord- tity of its snow as well as for its size. winter in and around Vancouver, at tee, “most people in Canada will for- that in February 2010. But the spot- ing to the Vancouver Olympic Com- The resort’s two mountains, with get everything else that happens lauded here than at C Restau- drive from Vancouver is best ($160). WSJ.com/Travel

light of the Games could give a last- mittee. For the gold-medal hockey vertical drops topping out at 1,584 here.” Agence Zoom/Getty Images (Miller); NHLI/Getty Images (Crosby); Getty Images (3)

W6 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 W7 v Travel

Five to watch Here are some of the athletes expected to be medal contenders at Visiting Vancouver, well before the Games begin the 2010 Winter Olympics.

IMany of the athletes likely to be t chasing gold here in 2010 will be Bode Miller & Lindsey Vonn competing in Vancouver this winter in about a dozen events, with Olym- Can Bode Miller and Lindsey Vonn, required emergency helicopter evacu- pic berths at stake for many of the reigning World Cup alpine ation, and Mr. Miller underperformed. them. In February, the city is kicking champions, overcome their cursed Neither won a medal, despite several off a yearlong series of concerts and Olympic histories? At the Torino previous World Cup victories. In 2008, cultural events leading up to the XXI Games in 2006, Ms. Vonn didn’t they became the first Americans in 25 Winter Games, featuring perform- make it past a training session years to sweep the men’s and wom- ers from around the world. And National Geographic Stock before taking a horrifying fall that en’s overall World Cup titles. travel packages—always reasonable in winter, Vancouver’s off-season—are particularly attractive now, because of favorable exchange Winter Olympics rates and discounts arising from the economic downturn. city offers top Sidney Crosby t In February alone, the Vancouver After failing to win a single gold area is hosting World Cup races in athletes and medal at the 1988 Calgary Games or luge, snowboarding, freestyle skiing the 1976 Games in Montreal, Canada and bobsledding, along with an inter- needs home-field redemption. The low prices—now Corbis national figure-skating competition. most coveted prize—a gold medal The events will be held on the same in hockey—could depend on the per- trails and in the same arenas that ing boost to winter tourism—and membered. But unforgettable are Furlong, the chief executive of the lo- in an array of ethnic restaurants. formance of Mr. Crosby, the nation’s will be used 15 months from now, winter prices—even if the Opening the panoramic shots of Sydney’s cal Olympics organizing committee, Downtown can feel like Paris one 21-year-old superstar center. guaranteeing participation by many and Closing ceremonies here fail to pristine beaches, blue-green waters praised the Beijing Games. But while block, Manhattan the next, and bike of the world’s best athletes. (In what match the choreographic wizardry and gorgeous urban skyline. Vancou- attending them he and his col- shops seem to compete on every Vancouver boasts is the earliest of last summer’s Games in Beijing; ver can hope for a similar effect. leagues saw “windows of opportu- block. The waterfront area, which state of readiness in modern Olym- the staged theatrics there drew at- Rankings of international cities in nity” to outshine China, he said, hint- borders three sides of downtown, pic history, most of the venues for tention away from the city’s polluted terms of natural beauty, architec- ing at fuller attendance, better night- was teeming one evening last week the games are already completed.) air and dingy neighborhoods, and tural diversity, cultural richness life and richer cultural offerings. with cyclists, tourists and joggers. A The purpose is to give the venues from China’s political oppression. and quality of life routinely place Half of Vancouver’s residents center of fishing, lumber and high- a high-stakes test run, and to give For Vancouver, the more apt com- Vancouver first in North America speak a first language other than En- tech concerns, Vancouver is also competitors some knowledge of the parison is Sydney, Australia. Little and within the top five globally. glish—Chinese in many cases, along North America’s third-largest film- courses. For tourists, attendance about the Opening Ceremonies for In a speech this month to the Van- with French—giving the city an in- making center, after Los Angeles will either be free or cost a fraction the 2000 Summer Games there is re- couver business community, John ternational flavor that is reflected and New York. of the price of an Olympic ticket. Moreover, a one-year Olympic But for gold-medal groupies and cultural celebration, kicking off in non-sports fans alike, the main argu- February, will feature performances ment for visiting this winter is that by Canada’s Sarah McLachlan, Isra- Vancouver might never be this el’s Batsheva Dance Company and cheap again. The city’s sea-to-moun- others. The Canadian Press/Associated Press taintop beauty, rich cultural offer- Trip planner: Vancouver at its best In a city with a sizable radical po- ings and diverse recreational oppor- litical element, there have already game alone—for which the Cana- meters, boast 3,240 skiable hect- “When you’ve been down the tunities have long made it one of the Where to stay been more Olympic protests than dian public will receive 4,000 tick- ares—more than 50% larger than course, you see and know things

W6 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 W7 v Travel v Sports Tourists warm up to Syria Playing through the hard times

W8 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 W5 v Arts Classical music with a modern message Washington’s Woodstock British composer Errollyn Wallen’s works are often inspired by history, and by complex social issues By John Jurgensen and Jamin Brophy-Warren By Andi Spicer cause of where I was born. As a be going to Mars. Steve helped me OLLYWOOD celebri- RITISH CONTEMPORARY clas- Composer composer you find your own story with my research and we have ties, Web activists sical music composer Errol- Errollyn Wallen through others. since written a song together and and jet-setters from Blyn Wallen initially trained I was involved with making a around the world are as a dancer at the Dance Theatre Q: Since “Our English Heart,” short film about his space walk, preparing to turn the of Harlem before turning to com- the commissions have started to with him narrating. I’ve sent U.S. presidential inau- position and studying at both Lon- flow recently and your works emails to him in space and he Hguration on Jan. 20 into a mix of don and Cambridge Universities. have become larger in scale. emailed me back. He stayed with Woodstock and Martin Luther She was the first black woman to There was always a steady me in my small London flat and King Jr.’s 1963 speech on the Na- have a piece (“Concerto for Percus- stream of commissions. But once said he didn’t mind because he’d tional Mall. Among the celebrities expected to sion”) played at The Proms in Lon- you’ve written a really big piece stayed in smaller places. While the plans of many top appear at Barack Obama’s (left) don. for orchestra, chorus and soloists politicians and entertainment inauguration (clockwise from above): Born in Belize, Ms. Wallen, 43 you can then do anything. After Q: You’ve contributed a song stars hang on pending details India.Arie, Hill Harper, Rufus years old, moved to England as a Nelson I felt I had developed as an to the piece “Walking down the about the Commander-in- Wainwright, Spike Lee and Oprah child and has become one of the artist in the ability to say some- red dust road,” which is a secu- Chief Ball and other official Winfrey. U.K.’s most promising young com- thing in a very public way but lar requiem for World AIDS Day, events that Mr. Obama is posers. Also a jazz singer and pia- find something very personal in it with seven other well-known likely to attend, dozens of nist, she has played in jazz saxo- too. composers providing music for other big-ticket parties are al- according to her representative: phonist Courtney Pine’s band. settings of HIV-related poems by ready taking shape. The Cre- Obama Girl, aka Amber Ettinger, In 2005, she premiered her cho- Q: Your music uses forms Jackie Kay. ative Coalition, an advocacy whose “I Got a Crush on Obama” mu- ral piece, “Our English Heart,” a such as the cantata and madri- Like many people, I have lost group, will host a ball at the sic video caught fire on the Web. cantata commissioned by BBC Ra- gals. It seems to celebrate Brit- friends and family to AIDS and Harman Center for the Arts. Despite George W. Bush’s low ap- dio 3 to mark the 200th anniver- ishness, as with the English Folk I’m keen to contribute my talents Spike Lee will be at the event, proval rating, the Texas State Soci- sary of the Battle of Trafalgar and Songs, which will be premiered to help fight, not only AIDS but Susan Sarandon is likely to at- ety’s Black Tie & Boots ball is ex- the death of Admiral Lord Nelson. next year. the poverty from which it comes— tend and the group is in discus- pected to be a big draw. Some 9,500 Her music combines popular I should be free to tell any poverty of knowledge and the pov- sions with such musicians as tickets at about $200 each have forms with flashes of the avant- story I want to tell. “Carbon 12” is erty of deprivation. It seems unbe- Elvis Costello to perform. Tick- been sold so far for the party at the garde. And her works often tackle about the coal mines in South lievable that the disease still flour- ets to the fund-raiser, where di- new Gaylord National Resort Hotel complicated issues, such as those Wales. You could say, what do I ishes unnecessarily. Last Novem- rector Barry Levinson will be in the emerging National Harbor in her opera “The Silent Twins,” know about that? But I make it ber I was in Belize performing in shooting final scenes for a film complex across the Potomac River. about the love-hate relationship of my business to know. It’s one a charity concert to raise money called “Poliwood,” a documentary Expect to see lassoes draped over two British-born Barbadian twin small instance of what it is to be a for The Hand In Hand mission, about Hollywood’s involvement in fences, performances by country girls who had their own secret lan- composer living now and telling which helps all those affected the presidential race, are still avail- stars such as Jack Ingram, and fe- guage and misunderstood literary the stories of our time. The re- with the disease. We visited one able—a $10,000 “bronze” package male attendees in “full-length se- creativity, eventually leading to im- sponsibility to tell that story is of the centers which cares for ba- admits two. quined ball gowns, large Texas hair prisonment and tragedy. just as great to tell as the story of bies and I was powerfully affected Love, one of the few Washington and eel-skin cowboy boots,” says Her latest piece is “Carbon slavery. by the work the team was doing nightclubs that sees a steady flow of Jenifer Sarver, the society’s histo- 12—A Choral Symphony,” about there. The concert was a highlight celebrities, is adding tents to triple rian and media chairwoman. South Wales and coal miners. She Q: The chamber opera “An- of my career. its capacity to about 7,000. “The last The grassroots masses that Vipul Sangoi, Raindesign What’s in store has also written “Mighty River,” other America Fire” involves a time we had that many people it was helped push Mr. Obama to victory an orchestral work to celebrate and female in your career as a to tell stories about the experi- black astronaut preparing to go Q: How did the commission for Beyoncé,” says owner Marc are using familiar strategies to the 200th anniversary of the aboli- composer? ences of black people in Britain? to Mars in 2014 and you had come about for the song? Barnes about a concert with Ms. for the Obama mount celebrations. For election tion of slavery in Britain. I’ll never know the full answer, There’s a point where the mu- help from your friend, the astro- Les Pratt of BBC Radio 3 ap- Knowles in 2002. night, Curtis Midkiff Jr., a 34-year- Her composition “All the Peo- but I try to be myself. There’s cer- sic has to speak for itself. Growing naut Steve MacLean, who has proached me and several other Many of Mr. Obama’s supporters inauguration old marketer living in Washington, ple of the World” will be per- tainly been times when it’s been up in England, I’d find there’d be taken your music into space in composers to each write a move- in Hollywood kept a low profile dur- used online social networks to orga- formed on Dec. 1, World AIDS Day, good for me. But I’m more compli- complexities and contradictions. the Space Shuttle and to the In- ment. My piece “All the People of ing the campaign, in part because of nize a party on U Street, a hub of by the Halle Orchestra and Halle cated than that. The music comes At home, as a child, we’d eat ternational Space Station. the World” ends the series. The efforts by Sen. John McCain to cast Observers have been handicap- black nightlife that saw some of the Youth Choir, conducted by Sir before me and if I want to be a meals like steak and kidney pud- Yes, I made up the story as I [orchestral] forces will be the his opponent as a celebrity. The inau- ping the musical picks since Nov. 5. city’s most feverish celebrations Mark Elder at Bridgewater Hall, in good composer, it has to be like ding with rice, which wasn’t done really love working with text. The same as that of Faure’s Requiem, guration offers a chance for celebri- The odds favor artists who have per- that night. On the morning of Nov. 5, Manchester, U.K. being a good mathematician. by other English families. I started date 2014 was given to me by which is included in the concert. ties to come out of the shadows. formed at official Obama events, Mr. Midkiff formed a Facebook We interviewed Ms. Wallen at to compose and still compose be- Steve MacLean as to when it was Proceeds will go to the Mission Oprah Winfrey, for example, plans such as the singers John Legend, group for potential inauguration vis- her home in London’s historic Q: Do you feel a responsibility cause of the love of music, not be- originally thought that we would Malawi for Action Aid. to be on hand, and so does the Chicago native Jennifer Hudson and itors, which has grown to nearly Greenwich, on the banks of the singer India.Arie. Invitations go out Bruce Springsteen. Mr. Springsteen applications as of the deadline last 15,000 members, and he’s planning Thames. in December for a party being is releasing a new album the week af- week, up from 375 applications in several parties, including a Wel- hosted by real-estate mogul and rents for up to $50,000 an event. ter the new president is sworn in 2005. come to D.C. gala and a party for pro Q: Your themes have become Obama insider R. Donahue Peebles, The international jet-set is con- that features a title song, “Working Some of the most determined athletes. very British over the past few his wife Katrina and an evolving list verging, too. Quintessentially, a lux- on a Dream,” that he first played at hopefuls include major artists. Anxiety about the economy and years as well as exploring the of celebrity co-hosts, including Star ury lifestyle service based in more an Obama rally. Tresa Sanders, a record-label repre- other factors are keeping some black condition in the context of Can old masters weather the economic storm? Jones and Chris Tucker, at the posh than 40 world cities, says the major- Congressional organizers are sentative for Mary J. Blige, the rap- party planners in check. Andrew modern Britain. Do you identify Georgetown Club. The invitation- ity of its dozens of inauguration re- looking for ways to expand capacity per Common and other high-profile Gerstel, vice president of Windows with some of the characters of LD MASTERS, WHICH are ex- degli Scrigni, with the campanile and sculpture. only event for a few hundred guests quests have come from abroad. For for Mr. Obama’s swearing-in cere- recording artists, says she’s been Catering Co. in Alexandria, Va., says your operas, such as in “The Si- Opected to weather the current of Santa Maria della Carità” (esti- Still lifes with flowers, fruits will kick off at midnight after offi- members, whose dues run from mony beyond the 240,000 tickets al- keeping in touch with Obama orga- many of his potential clients, includ- lent Twins”? market downturn better than con- mate: £3 million-£5 million). The and vegetables are a must at old cial festivities on Jan. 20. $1,500 to $40,000 annually, the com- lotted. City officials are preparing nizers in hopes of positioning her ing big law firms and lobbying There’s so many modern Brit- temporary art, are the focus of Lon- two paintings are appearing at auc- master sales. Painted with great At the fifth Bytes and Books Inau- pany will be supplying everything for millions to converge on the Mall. artists for a performance slot. groups that typically hold parade- ish stories that haven’t been told. don auctions next week. The hype tion for the first time ever. detail, “they are not too academic gural Ball, the National Coalition for from local wardrobe stylists and Destination DC, a tourism non- Less-than-famous performers, watching parties, are weighing There’s a treasure trove between The Brueghel dynasty is one of and have a huge appeal,” says An- Technology In Education and Train- rental homes (minimum $25,000 profit, says that they expect the including local cover bands and acts which bash to scratch—holiday or World War I and the 1950s, a the most famous families in art his- drew McKenzie, the old master ing plans to honor George Lucas and for three days), to tickets to the offi- 2009 event to be larger than the 1.2 like the Strolling Strings, will per- inauguration. “They say, ‘We don’t place where there’s lots of excit- Collecting tory. Sotheby’s on Dec. 3 will offer specialist at Bonhams. The cover Sen. Ted Kennedy at its $2,500-per- cial presidential balls, which head of million that reportedly attended form at the Illinois State Society’s have the budget for both.’ But they ing journeys. Britain’s a place with MARGARET STUDER four works by various Brueghels lot at Bonhams on Dec. 3 is a gor- couple event (for the lowest-tiered marketing Jaclyn Gower says Quint- one of the largest inaugurations, ball—but it’s a hot ticket nonethe- know it might send the wrong mes- lots of comings and goings be- with the star lot “The Kermesse of geous still life by Dutch artist Jan sponsorship). Sen. Kennedy under- essentially can supply in limited Lyndon B. Johnson’s in 1965. less. Mr. Obama has been sent an in- sage if they don’t celebrate the inau- cause of the sea. There’s a lot of Saint George” by Pieter Brueghel van Os (1744-1808) with a composi- went surgery for a brain tumor this numbers. Meanwhile, as Mr. Obama’s tran- vite to his home state’s bash, but guration of a new president, much people who grew up British and that caused the run-up in prices the Younger (1564-1637/38), a can- tion of roses, irises, carnations year. Hill Harper, an actor on “CSI: sition team moves quickly to fill his there’s no guarantee he’ll show, less an historic one such as Barack never fitted in. for contemporary works passed vas with villagers in festival mood and other flowers (estimate: The Human Rights Campaign NY” and a former Harvard Law cabinet, his inaugural crew is also says Executive Chairman Suzanne Obama,” Mr. Gerstel says. As for the twins, their relation- by this traditionally more stable as they dance, drink and eat (esti- £600,000-£800,000). Foundation expects 2,000 people, School classmate of Mr. Obama, will gearing up. A former Obama cam- New: “We know he had a good time But for many attendees, parties ship was every relationship. To sector. mate: £2.5 million-£3.5 million). A Dec. 9 sale at Sotheby’s will many from the gay and lesbian com- be co-hosting an after-hours party paign staffer, Emmett Beliveau, was in 2005 and we hope he’s going to will take a back seat to witnessing to most people they were just two “There was little speculation” Sotheby’s evening sale of paint- feature marine paintings, includ- munity, at its “Equality Ball” at the modeled on other wee-hour soirees appointed earlier this month to come back for another one.” Filling history, Mr. Midkiff says. “As long as mutes who were considered sub- in the old master segment, says ings will also feature a portrait, “A ing dramatic images of sailing Mayflower Hotel on the evening of during the campaign that he threw head the Presidential Inaugural three floors of the Renaissance Ho- they’re on the Mall, their story will Sotheby's normal. It was an adaptation of Paul Raison, who heads Christie’s Jovial Violinist Holding a Glass of ships braving the elements on the the Inauguration. Celebrity guests with fellow Hollywood fund-raisers, Committee that will make decisions tel, the party will spotlight points of be how they felt it. It won’t matter the book by Marjorie Wallace of old master department. ‘A Jovial Violinist Holding a Wine,” by the Dutch master Hen- high seas or fighting for control of will include Melissa Etheridge, including Nicole Avant, Mr. Obama’s on everything from the locations for state pride, including a version of that they saw it on a Jumbotron, the lives of June and Jennifer Gib- In the last major art-market Glass of Wine’ (circa 1627), by drick Ter Brugghen (1588-1629), the seaways. An example is Cyndi Lauper and Rufus Wain- California finance co-chairwoman. the official balls to the marching Chicago’s Steppenwolf Theatre and what will matter will be that they bons. This was such a disturbing slowdown, in the early 1990s, old Hendrick Ter Brugghen; estimated at £250,000-£350,000. Thomas Luny’s “The destruction wright. With the entertainment world de- bands who will parade down Penn- the state fair. Some 2,000 dinner were there.” story and based on a true story. It masters were “affected, but less,” estimate: £250,000-£350,000. The painting comes from the col- of the Santo Domingo. The Battle The Newseum, a glass and mar- scending on Washington, Ms. Avant sylvania Avenue. (A representative tickets for $500 each have sold out, —Ellen Gamerman contributed was emotionally exhausting to says Alex Bell, world-wide head of lection of Italian industrialist-col- of Cape St. Vincent. 16th January ble museum on Pennsylvania Ave- says, “there will be more celebrities of the Obama transition team de- but $300 tickets for the ball itself to this article. write and when you’re writing old master paintings at Sotheby’s. striking Venetian views by Canal- lector Luigi Koelliker. 1780,” an important moment in nue dedicated to news, has booked than we’ve ever had.” She has some clined an interview request.) are available. about living people, you have to He says he expects buyers to be etto: “The Piazzetta di San Marco, In a separate sale on the same the European involvement in the 10 private parties during inaugura- concerns about how she and her co- Mr. Obama’s inaugural commit- Tickets are sold out for another find the truth in the story, you more selective with marginal Venice, looking west, with the Li- day, Sotheby’s will offer the con- American War of Independence, tion week. Jay Norris, managing hosts will include regular support- tee is sifting through a deluge of par- state event with a chance for a presi- WSJ.com have to delve into their characters pieces, which are harder to sell, but breria” (estimate £4 million-£6 tents of Milan-based Mr. Koellik- when a British fleet beat Spain, partner of Lifestyle Communica- ers in the celebrity-heavy crowd. ticipation requests. The Armed dential appearance: Hawaii, where Capital ideas and delineate their characters. for top-end works to still do well. million) and “The Grand Canal, er’s London residence, which he is which had taken the side of the tions, a brand development firm “It’s important that the tone re- Forces Inaugural Committee, which Mr. Obama was raised. The state so- See inauguration trip-planning tips The main attractions at Venice, looking north-west from giving up, filled with not only Americans (estimate: based in New York, says he plans an mains consistent with the tone of processes the applications from ciety’s ball will be held at the Manda- for all income levels, at Q: Do you think it’s been a Christie’s on Dec. 2 will be two the Ca’ Corner to the Ca’ Contarini paintings but ceramics, furniture £30,000-£50,000). invitation-only “worldly, eclectic the whole campaign, which is very groups that wish to march in the pa- rin Oriental Hotel. One star of the WSJ.com/Travel help or hindrance being black celebration” in the museum, which inclusive,” adds Mr. Harper. rade, had received more than 1,300 campaign who could be attending,

W4 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 28 - 30, 2008 W9 v Taste v Fashion Havel’s Humanity By Salil Tripathi London, he had no time to work who offers a lifeline to the family mark accent, telling the actors handas Gandhi; in the documen- Japan’s new style icon: Marie Antoinette on “Leaving” or any other play when it matters; the other, mar- what to do and what not to do tary, we see the framed picture of In 1988, when he was still a while in office; indeed, he had al- ried to a quiet man, is keen to en- (such as getting melodramatic). Burmese dissident Aung San Suu dissident playwright, Vaclav most forgotten its existence. But sure that the new companion Mr. Havel has frequently noted Kyi on his mantelpiece.) By Yukari Iwatani Kane lored to Japanese women, whom Havel began writing a play about he rediscovered the manuscript won’t raid the family silver. Mean- life’s absurdity. In his new mem- The memoir reveals how the And Lisa Thomas he found to be shorter and to have the angst of a political leader after retirement, and his muse in- while, mafia capitalists have oir “To the Castle and Back” there cocoon of presidency frustrates Tokyo smaller chests than Western about to relinquish power. Out- spired him again. “Leaving” emerged, to the chagrin of the de- are long, thoughtful passages in him: The tedium of the quotidian HEN MAYUMI Yamamoto women. Inspired by his favorite ac- wardly, the leader looked su- opened in Prague earlier this year parting leader; a besotted student which he reflects on what pro- is exasperating. He has to deal goes out for coffee or win- tress, Brigitte Bardot, he created premely confident; inwardly, he and in London in September. It is follows him, willing to trade ro- pelled him to the presidency. In with dull bureaucrats who believe Wdow shopping, she likes dresses in quality fabrics that mim- had no idea how he would face now running at the Orange Tree mance for access to power; and the documentary, we observe him they can improve on his speeches. to look as though she’s going to a icked the feminine and elegant his future. For a Czechoslovak Theatre to packed audiences. his cynical successor has his eyes closely during his presidency, as He has to deal with a bat living in formal garden party. One day re- style of her youth. writer only used to living under There cannot be a more suit- set firmly on the commercial po- he grapples with dilemmas and his attic, the quality of food cently, she was decked out in a “What I wanted to do wasn’t dictators, even imag- able venue for the tential of the presidential palace cuts through obscurity to arrive served to guests, the choice and frilly, rose-patterned dress, match- that unique,” says Mr. Miyamae, ining a leader honor- play than Orange and wants to get rich quick. placement of cutlery, the ordeal of ing pink heels with a ribbon and a who named the company after a ing the limits the Real accounts Tree, whose direc- Critics have noted ob- getting his cigarette lighter fixed. huge pink bow atop her long hair, Japanese musical. “I just made constitution im- tor Sam Walters vious parallels with He also struggles against soft- dyed brown and in pre-Raphaelite them to fit Japanese bodies.” posed was a heroic of his life, and a has done more than Mr. Havel’s own ware advancements that curls. Mr. Miyamae’s knee-length act. But then, Mr. version without anyone else in life—as if Mr. complicate tasks like Ms. Yamamoto is a hime gyaru, dresses are studded with fake Havel had done bringing Mr. Havel’s Havel is looking word processing. or princess girl, a growing new pearls and flowers and have many more heroic the fairy-tale plays to Western au- back at his life, His memoir is tribe of Japanese women who aim names like Antoine (short for things, such as writ- ending. diences. A longtime mocking both him- not a straight- to look like sugarcoated, 21st-cen- Marie Antoinette). They became ing plays like “The supporter of Mr. self and his succes- forward narra- tury versions of old-style Euro- popular among women who were Garden Party” and Havel’s work, the sor, Vaclav Klaus. tive with a be- pean royalty. They idolize Marie looking for a cleaned-up look after Above, Mayumi Yamamoto; right, “The Memorandum” and leading theater has staged most of his Mr. Havel has denied ginning, middle Antoinette and Paris Hilton, for the popularity of ripped jeans and Keiko Mizoe (at right, with another Charter 77, the movement of plays and championed Charter such an interpretation. and end. First, her baby-doll looks and princess layered casual clothing in the late sales clerk from the Jesus Diamante Czech and Slovak intellectuals 77. As an added treat, Orange But if the play is auto- there are edited lifestyle. They speak in soft, 1990s. The chain’s sales have boutique). fighting for fundamental free- Tree is performing more Havel biographical, it is oddly extracts from chirpy voices and flock to special- grown 20% a year, to $13.4 million doms. He was accused of “disturb- plays through Dec. 13, including confessional. It does his diary, not ized boutiques with names like in the year ended March 2008, losing about 15 kilograms in re- ing the peace” (which became the “Mountain Hotel.” not exculpate Mr. necessarily in Jesus Diamante, which looks like a even though it has just four cent years, she got hooked on Dia- title of one of his later books) and The Havel-fest doesn’t end Havel’s alter ego, chronological bedroom in a European chateau. stores, including one in Tokyo’s mante’s tight-waisted dresses jailed for four and a half years. there: In October, the London In- who ends up as a order. Then There, some hime girls spend trendy Harajuku neighborhood. It adorned with huge rose patterns, Mr. Havel called that play about ternational Film Festival screened hapless and help- there is an ac- more than $1,000 for an outfit in- has spurred a slew of rivals with and estimates she may be spend- the politician “Leaving.” But he “Obcan Havel” (Citizen Havel), a less clown, demean- count of his cluding a satin dress, parasol and names like Liz Lisa and La Pafait. ing $2,000 or $3,000 a month. had to leave it incomplete—not be- documentary by Pavel Kouteck ing his reputation. Ryan Inzana postpresidential life, rhinestone-studded handbag. Mr. Miyamae has also hired Her husband, an architect who cause he had to hide it from the and Miroslav Janek. And earlier Mr. Havel is fascinated at morally sharp decisions. When based on reflections written dur- “When they come out with a some loyal customers as shop loves Europe, pays for most of her state police, but because he had this year, Portobello Books pub- by the odd turns that life takes, asked how he can tolerate Czechs ing a sabbatical at the U.S. Li- new item, I can’t sleep at night be- clerks, who spent time experiment- purchases. Her parents, who live the Velvet Revolution to lead. By lished “To the Castle and Back,” and those themes resonate in spreading falsehoods about him brary of Congress. Finally, we see cause that’s all I can think about,” ing with makeup and hairstyles to nearby, send the couple food so 1989, Mr. Havel was attracting Mr. Havel’s memoir of his years “Leaving.” It is as if he is explor- in parliament, he says philosophi- his thoughtful responses to a says Ms. Yamamoto of the Dia- go with the clothes, eventually they have more money for Ms. crowds when he spoke. Nearly in power. Taken together, the new ing how his life might have turned cally that democracy imposes re- journalist who asks him complex mante dresses. The 36-year-old coming up with the doe-eyed prin- Yamamoto’s shopping sprees. 200,000 heard him speak at play, the documentary and the out if it did not have a fairy-tale straints on those who believe in questions about his presidency. housewife has amassed a collec- cess look. Diamante started stock- “I figure it’s OK as long as Prague’s Wenceslas Square that No- book provide a remarkably consis- ending. There are nods to three it, even if those who don’t believe The fragmented structure tion of 20 princess dresses in the ing its own interpretation of regal- what I’m buying is pretty,” she vember; the next month he became tent view of Mr. Havel’s humanity. great influences on Mr. Havel’s in democracy can act without any seems discontinuous at first, but past eight months and even looking accessories, such as tiaras, says. Czechoslovakia’s president. More “Leaving” is about Vilém writing: William Shakespeare restraint. Rather than take a prag- it eventually becomes compre- decked out her bedroom with imi- elbow-length gloves and stiletto- —Miho Inada than 13 years later, he left the pres- Rieger, a chancellor finding the (“King Lear” and its weakened matic, convenient way out of an- hensive—a testament to the tation rococo furniture. heeled slippers adorned with rib- contributed to this article. Lisa Thomas idency of the truncated Czech Re- trappings of power leaving him as ruler with his daughters); Anton other crisis, he says his responsi- fairy-tale outcome of an aston- Japan has been famous for its bons. public when his term ended. Along his term ends. Nobody likes his Chekhov (“The Cherry Orchard” bility is to speak the truth. Living ished intellectual at the center extreme fashion fads, mostly Keiko Mizoe, Jesus Diamante’s the way, he helped to disband the new companion, who looks like makes frequent appearances, liter- in truth (the title of yet another of history, staring down lies, among teenagers. These have top sales clerk and a former cus- Warsaw Pact, advocated the Czech an aggressive shrew trying her ally and metaphorically); and Sam- of his books) is what he did fac- tearing down walls. In the end, ranged from the Lolita look, in tomer, says she sees the princess Republic’s admission to NATO and best to show the leader in good uel Beckett (“Endgame” and its ab- ing up to the Communists; as pres- all of that makes sense, as in a which women dress up in baby- style as one befitting an elegant the European Union, and provided light. He has two daughters from surdity resonate). Ever the practi- ident, he is not about to make any Havel play. doll dresses and bonnets, to a woman from an upper-class fam- moral authority to public office. a previous marriage: one who is cal joker, Mr. Havel makes off- compromises. (In the play, the tough-girl look called Yamamba, ily. The girls are “perfect, gor- As Mr. Havel said recently dur- absorbed in her internal universe stage intrusions into the play, leader is attached to a statue of Mr. Tripathi is a writer living in or mountain hag, which requires a geous and feminine,” says the ing a talk at the British Library in of cellphone, laptop and iPod, but through voice-overs in his trade- the nonviolent Indian leader Mo- London. dark tan, white eye shadow and 24-year-old, herself dressed in a shaggy, silver-bleached hair. red checkered dress, pink stock- But the princess boom is seen ings in heart patterns and pink as a more polished and sophisti- nails studded with crystals. cated look that’s popular among Ms. Mizoe, who the company Paul McCartney’s Latest Collaboration working women in their 20s and says single-handedly sells about 30s, perhaps as a bit of escapism $95,000 in clothing each month, By Jim Fusilli 2000 album that’s credited to Mr. Whatever the relationship in and what sounds like sarod and rine and high-hat percussion and from workaday stress and eco- has become an idol among Dia- McCartney, Youth, Super Furry the studio, it works. If “Electric sitar add a sense of India to fat guitar and bass, “Highway” in- nomic uncertainty. mante customers, who try to imi- During a BBC interview broad- Animals and the Beatles. Argument” doesn’t sound like pre- “Lifelong Passion.” A pan flute vokes “Drive My Car.” A plucked “There’s a longing for a happy- tate everything about her. On the cast last week, Paul McCartney “Electric Arguments” is a rock vious albums by The Fireman, nei- introduces “Is This Love?” be- electric bass offers a counter- ending fairy tale,” says Asuka Wa- store’s Web site, she keeps a regu- mentioned a never-released Beat- album that mixes elements of the ther does it sound like Mr. Mc- fore a chirping guitar ushers in point to a strummed 12-string gui- tanabe, a sociology professor at larly updated blog, in which she les track, “Carnival of Light,” re- genre’s past with its present. Each Cartney’s recent pristine solo ef- Mr. McCartney’s vocal, which, as tar on “Sun Is Shining,” another Kyoritsu Women’s Junior College, lists her favorite food (Godiva’s corded in 1967. By doing so, he song was written and recorded in forts, which are a tad reserved. in several tunes on the album, is pleasing track with a great vocal who specializes in street fashion. heart-shaped chocolates), favorite buried this week’s news: He’s is- a single day—13 songs, 13 days— Which isn’t to suggest the album surrounded in a wash of electron- and an appealing chorus. Are the While it may be in style among drink (cocoa at Tokyo Disneyland) sued a new album, “Electric Argu- thus leaving little is a cluttered knock- ics, creating a different context chirping birds from the tape that fashionable women in New York and favorite expression (thank ments” (MPL). It’s by Mr. McCart- time for overthink- off. It’s a seriously for this very familiar singer. was used on the Beatles’ “Across and London, black isn’t an option you). ney and producer/musician ing the tracks, Does the former good piece of mod- For decades, Mr. McCartney the Universe”? for hime girls, who prefer pink Haruka Oohira, a 16-year-old Youth, who record together under though one suspects Beatle, at age ern rock, and there has enjoyed toying with his voice. Mr. McCartney has emerged and florals. They also have a doll- hime girl, was so in awe of sales the name The Fireman, and it’s Youth did more than is at least one per- In “Traveling Light,” a lilting folk as the great musical experi- like sense of beauty that requires clerks like Ms. Mizoe that she markedly different from anything a bit of mixing and 66, really need formance that can ballad buoyed by piano and menter among the Beatles, in effort and practice to attain. To made a flurry of purchases online the duo has released in the past. mastering. Mr. Mc- the cover of stand proudly in flutes, he sings at the bottom of part due to his longevity—his col- create the ideal “supervolume before feeling confident enough to Until now, The Fireman’s Cartney sings and the McCartney his range. “Two Magpies,” a loose- league John Lennon was mur- hair,” curl only a few strands of set foot in the Harajuku store. work—“Strawberries Oceans plays most, if not Youth to do canon: “Sing the limbed folk blues, finds him sing- dered on Dec. 8, 1980—and in hair at a time and alternate be- “Their cuteness is beyond hu- Ships Forest” (Capitol), released all, the instruments, what he wants? Changes,” a bright, ing near the top. And on “Light part due to his temperament. He tween inward and outward curls, man,” says Ms. Oohira. “I’d like to in 1993, and “Rushes” (Capitol), and wrote lyrics to boisterous celebra- From Your Lighthouse,” a foot- was interested in electronic mu- advises Vanilla Girl, a fashion mag- be like them.” issued five years later—could be music that he and tion of life inspired stomping sliver of country folk, sic as early as 1965; made tape azine for teenagers aspiring to be- Of course, princess fashion classified as ambient dance mu- Youth conjured in the studio. The by Paralympic athletes. Over he has it both ways, overdubbing loops that turned up on Beatles come hime girls. Dyed hair exten- isn’t exactly practical. Ms. Yama- sic: Electronic pulses provide the other contributions of Youth, who 12-string guitars and driving per- his voice so he sings the opening recordings; released in 1977 a sions can help form more dynamic moto, the housewife princess, says underpinning to repeating produced Crowded House, De- cussion, he sings, “Feel a sense of verse in both falsetto and a griz- cheesy instrumental-and-vocalese ringlets, while mascara applied on she gave up wearing the frilly themes punctuated by percus- peche Mode, U2 and the Verve, childlike wonder,” a line that an- zly bass. By the way, “Light- version of his album “Ram” un- top of fake eyelashes plus black dresses while she works opening sion, shouts and exclamations, and worked on the new Guns N’ ticipates the listener’s reaction to house” has a very catchy chorus, der the pseudonym Percy liquid eyeliner can really accentu- cardboard boxes at an accessory though if you listen carefully you Roses release “Chinese Democ- the song. There’s a joyous video the kind you can sing before the “Thrills” Thrillington—a ruse ate the eyes. store four hours a day. can hear the occasional fragment racy,” are more difficult to gauge; on YouTube for it in which Mr. song reaches its end. He’s done that went undiscovered for 12 The princess boom has also Ms. Yamamoto says she has “Fifty Fathoms Automatique” of a McCartney recording. You as accomplished as he may be, he McCartney calls the athletes “he- that before, hasn’t he? years; and composed several well- taken off among an unlikely group long adored pink and wanted to (ref. 5015-3630-52) might call The Fireman’s earlier isn’t part of our musical DNA, as roes.” (In fact, there is at least Every now and then, there’s regarded classical pieces. If “Elec- of women: nightclub hostesses dress in feminine clothes, but felt music a rhythmic distant cousin is Mr. McCartney, who’s so identi- one video on YouTube for every an undeniable allusion to the tric Arguments” is one of the bet- who also like the big-hair, glamor- shy about her plump figure. After to the kind of pre-Minimalism of fiable that you’ll recognize his song on “Electric Argument,” pro- Beatles. A chiming George Harri- ter Paul McCartney rock albums ous look, though their dresses are John Cage and Karlheinz Stock- breathing when he plays harmon- viding an easy way to sample it.) son-like guitar part opens “Sing of recent years, it is also another often more revealing. WSJ.com Jesus Diamante started the prin- hausen that was said to influence ica. There’s the temptation to say Throughout the album, the the Changes.” Kicking off with expression of his desire to ex- Hello, Princess “Carnival of Light,” though one that Youth’s presence liberates duo draws on a wide range of the blare of a blues harmonica, pand the boundaries of his art. cess boom. Toyotaka Miyamae, 52, See a video of Japan’s hime girls, suspects the Beatles track Mr. Mc- Mr. McCartney to let it rip. But traditional and synthesized “Nothing Too Much Just Out of who had run an import shop spe- and the opulent boutiques where Cartney alluded to might be a it’s rarely so simple. I mean, does sounds. In “Dance ’til We’re Sight” becomes a brooding piece Mr. Fusilli is the Journal’s rock cializing in evening gowns, set up they like to shop, at the company in Osaka seven years mid-’60s version of his “Liver- Paul McCartney, at age 66, really High,” Mr. McCartney’s voice of heavy rock bound to recall and pop music critic. Email him WSJ.com/Fashion WWW.BLANCPAIN.COM pool Sound Collage” (Capitol), a need cover to do what he wants? flies over staccato strings. Tabla “Helter Skelter.” With its tambou- at [email protected]. ago to design feminine dresses tai-

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