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Croatia emerged from conflict and post-Communist industrial decline to become Europe’s most sought-after Med getaway. INTRO This transformational marketing triumph has dovetailed with the national team taking the world stage in the red-and-white chequerboard of the Croatian coat of arms, the šahovnica.

This has created a brand of universal Welcome to recognition, the replica tops standard liberoguide.com! holiday issue along Croatia’s extensive The digital travel guide for coastline. When Croatian president football fans, liberoguide.com Kolinda Grabar-Kitarović braved the is the most up-to-date resource, torrential rain after her compatriots city-by-city, club-by-club, to the had gallantly pushed France to the wire game across Europe and North in the 2018 World Cup Final, she was America. Using only original soaked to the skin in the chequerboard photos and first-hand research, shirt, surrounded by men in suits. As taken and undertaken over seven a symbol of Croatian spirit before a seasons, liberoguide.com has global audience of 1.1 billion, it was been put together to enhance brilliant. every football weekend and Euro night experience. From airport By stark comparison, the domestic to arena, downtown sports bar game in Croatia is meek and seen by to hotel, liberoguide.com helps few. Dominated by Dinamo , you get the best out of your visit winners of 20 of the 28 league to football’s furthest corners and campaigns since the war-torn ones showcase stadiums. Kantrida, Rijeka of the early 1990s, the Croatian top- flightPrva HNL has juggled with sizes and formulas but gates rarely break a on thin margins despite winning every CROATIA 2019-20 seasonal average of 3,000. title but two since 1992. CONTENTS 1-3 INTRO 11 Koprivnica 17 Rijeka Zagreb has no real cross-city rivalries, Each plays at a stadium – the 4-6 Zagreb 12 Slaven Belupo 18 HNK Rijeka only local clubs in Dinamo’s shadow, , the Poljud – whose 7 Maksimir Stadium 13 19-20 Split while the Vječni (‘Eternal’) Derbi with national status belies its limitations 8 Dinamo Zagreb 14 NK Osijek 21 Hajduk Split Hajduk Split is itself a shadow of and condition. By contrast, Rijeka, the 9 Gorica 15 Pula 22 Varaždin long-forgotten title clashes. With a fan port city where 25 years of Zagreb- 10 Lokomotiva/Stadion 16 Istra 1961 23 NK Varaždin boycott at corruption-ravaged Dinamo Split league duopoly was shattered in Kranjčevićeva 24 Zaprešić and financial disarray, even near 2017, awaits the completion of its new 25 Inter Zaprešić collapse, at Hajduk, each club operates stadium by the sea.

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day-to-day transactions, euros in

notes are accepted in some hotels and INTRO VARAŽDIN restaurants.

KOPRIVNICA National HŽPP trains (hzpp.hr/en) are ZAPREŠIĆ ZAGREB only really useful for short journeys from Zagreb. Zaprešić takes 25mins and costs 12kn/€1.60, Koprivnica 1hr 30mins (60kn/€8). Split takes 6-8hrs OSIJEK and costs 200kn/€26.

RIJEKA Croatian motorways (autoceste) cover most of the country. Tolls (hac.hr/en) are charged at gates, payment in kunas or euros, or by credit card. Nearly the PULA Station to stadium whole route from Zagreb to Split (4hrs) National carrier is by motorway, toll charge around (croatiaairlines.com) serves Zagreb, 180kn/€24. Split, Osijek, Rijeka and Pula, major coastal destinations and European Tables & trophies hubs. Domestic flights can be cheap Croatia’s top division, the Prva HNL (or and, given the long distances involved, 1. HNL), currently consists of ten clubs, advantageous. British Airways and who play each other home and away budget carriers easyJet, Ryanair and twice. The winners and runners-up Wizzair also offer Croatian routes. enter the Champions League Second Qualifying Round. The winners of the SPLIT From major airports, bus services Croatian Cup gain a berth in the Third (around 30kn/€4) into town are reliable. Qualifying Round of the Europa League, Around town, Zagreb and Osijek have the third- and fourth-placed finishers tram networks, local buses serve the Second Qualifying Round. If the cup the cities of Split and Pula. Several winners end up top four in the league private companies provide Croatia’s – a likely circumstance – then the side inter-city bus network (buscroatia. finishing fifth take the extra EL spot. com), the main form of public transport Further down the Adriatic, clubs from Dinamo, Hajduk, Rijeka and Osijek clubs have been trapped in a weak nationwide. Zagreb-Split costs around The bottom club drops down to the the holiday hubs of and have fiery followings whose roots lie domestic set-up – with little hope of 150kn/€20 and takes 5-6hrs. Luggage 16-team second tier, Druga HNL (or 2. Zadar rarely remain in the top flight in the phenomenon of 1990s’ expansion or improvement unless a storage costs a few kunas – pay the HNL), whose champions go straight – in footballing terms, Osijek is the lore in nearby Italy. Back then, Croatia regional structure is re-created, as driver as he’s loading up. The local up. The ninth-placed side in the Prva fourth biggest force. The top four of was at war. Since then, its fans and long seen in basketball. currency (8kn = €1) is used for all and runners-up of Druga play off

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over two legs. Reserve sides cannot be county cups across Croatia. Counties promoted. After a straight home-and- with the highest number of active clubs INTRO away season, the bottom three clubs of may enter the runners-up. Bizarrely, the second flight relegate to the Treća therefore, several teams currently in HNL (or 3. HNL). Croatia’s second flight, perhaps even the top flight, are not involved in the This third tier currently has five regional cup. The only real way for them to divisions, Centre, East, North, South compete at a later date is to win their and West of either 12 or 16 teams county cup and progress in the national each. Much as Croatia’s top league one. On the other hand, modest GOŠK changed size 12 times in 25 years, so Dubrovnik’s cup run of 2012-13 allowed this structure is a moveable feast – in them to join the big boys even up to 2018-19, there were three divisions at 2018-19. this third level, East, South and West. At present, the divisional winner with The 32 teams qualified through the best record goes up to the Druga the counties play each other in the HNL, the other four play off in two, Preliminary Round, decided over one two-legged deciders, to produce three game. These 16 winners join the 16 promotees. highest in the co-efficiency table, the Dinamos and Hajduks ceding home Below this, the fourth tier Četvrta NL advantage in the draw. Ties up to comprises inter-county leagues, based and including the semi-final are also in Rijeka, Zagreb, Čakovec-Varaždin, decided over 90 minutes, over extra- Bjelovar-Koprivnica-Vitrovitica, Osijek- time and on penalties if needed. The Vinkovci and Brod-Požega, all in the final is played at a neutral ground in The Druga HNL starts later, in mid- on match days. Availability is almost sidelines. Prices rise for major north. Amateur clubs in Istria and May, recent venues including Pula, August, runs until early December, never an issue, although the bigger European games and the Dinamo- around the main hubs of , Vinkovci (!) and Varaždin. picks up again in late February and clubs also distribute through their Hajduk derby. Credit cards are often Dubrovnik, Split, Šibenik and Zadar, goes on until late May. The eight shops in the run-up to the weekend. accepted at bigger clubs and English share the fifth tier with other areas in Season’s dealings games are staggered each round, two Each of the four stands, tribina, is is usually spoken. the north. These local leagues extend The Croatian season starts in mid-July, on Friday, three each on Saturday and designated north (sjever), south (jug), down to level seven. runs until mid-December, then picks Sunday, around 5.30pm, sometimes east (istok) and west (zapad). On your Particularly in warmer months, grills up in late January/early February until 7pm, in the warmer months, and ticket for bigger international matches, are set up around stadium forecourts The Croatian Cup, Hrvatski Nogometni late May. The five top-flight games are as early as 1pm-1.30pm in winter. ulaz is the gate, sektor the sector, red – Split being a prime example – and Kup, is unusual in that the main clubs usually staggered over the weekend, Occasional midweek rounds are on the row and sjedalo your seat. Cijena is Balkan delights such as čevapčići, qualify by a co-efficient worked out over one on Friday (6pm-8pm), and two Wednesdays, 4-6pm or early afternoon. the price. rissoles of lamb and beef, sizzled and five years in the competition, rather each on Saturday and Sunday, two stuffed into lepinje flatbread. Beer than outright divisional status. The best hours apart. In the warmer months, Entry level You’ll pay around 30-40kn/€4-€5.30 (pivo) is invariably domestic Ožujsko 16 compete, along with the 32 winners these are 6pm-9pm, in the darker Admission is sold at the blagajna, a behind the goal, 50-80kn/€6.60- or Karlovačko, Favorit a favourite in and certain finalists in the various ones, 3pm-5.30pm. kiosk or ticket windows at the stadium, €10.50 for the best seats on the Istria.

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Zagreb ZAGREB

Scene of wild celebrations after Croatia’s heroic run to the World Cup final in 2018, national capital Zagreb has always been a football-centric metropolis. Home to flagship club and record Croatian champions Dinamo, the city’s main Maksimir Stadium shares international duties with the Poljud in Split. It also co-hosted the Euro finals in 1976 and lost out on the vote to perform a similar but more substantial role in 2012. dominated and even NK Zagreb, previously only occasional participants It was exactly a century earlier that in the all-Yugoslav one, shone, winning Zagreb, then under Austro-Hungarian the title in 2002. rule, was chosen as base of the football branch of the newly formed Meanwhile, top-flight Lokomotiva, a Croatian Athletics Federation. Nine feeder club for Dinamo, have recently years before, the first club, HAŠK, enjoyed a rare dip into Europe. As had been founded by students and Viktoria, then Željezničar, Lokomotiva academics. Other clubs soon followed were the city’s fourth club before as the Sokol movement blossomed. World War II, surviving the post-Tito Linked to similar movements in era in their current guise. With the Prague, Scout-like Sokol encouraged in Zagreb. The three Zagreb clubs were founded in their place. The Građanski carried the nickname demise of NK, Lokomotiva have not sporting activity and, though not took eight of the 17 titles up to 1940, best players joined them, including of ‘Purgeri’, one still granted to all only taken over their Kranjčevićeva openly, Slav . although ten years earlier, internal Franjo Wölff, who would become citizens of Zagreb today. Dinamo also stadium, but the mantle of the capital’s disputes had the league HQ moved top league scorer for two seasons inherited their colours, fan base and, de facto second club, the only other Three main clubs HAŠK, Građanski to Belgrade. As a Nazi state in World running. Dinamo later took over the for three years, their stadium, the city-based one in the current top and Concordia played each other War II, Croatia had its own national Maksimir ground from HAŠK, while Koturaska. Abandoned in 1948, it was flight. Just outside town, near Zagreb in friendlies at the , team and league, again dominated by Concordia ceded their ground to the later demolished. Dinamo became Airport, Gorica represent the suburban the city’s main green space east the big three. club that would become NK Zagreb. one of the Yugoslav big four, Zagreb’s community of . of town, facing the stadium of the The Stadion Concordije became the Maksimir a regular host of Yugoslav same name today. When the South Under Tito, in the post-war Republic Stadion Kranjčevićeva, on the street of internationals. Of the Zagreb clubs in Croatia’s lower Slavs – Yugoslavs – broke from of Yugoslavia, Građanski, HAŠK and the same name, the city’s second most tier, Hrvatski Dragovoljac, the ‘Black the Habsburgs after World War I, a Concordia were disbanded as one on important football ground south-west After 1991, in the considerably weaker Warriors’, were reformed and renamed league was set up, originally based June 9, 1945 – and Dinamo Zagreb of town near the student quarter. independent Croatian league, Dinamo in honour of those who volunteered

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to fight in the Croatian War of Esplanade

Independence. Challenging for a place ZAGREB in the top flight, Rudeš also play at Kranjčevićeva. HAŠK still exist, though much more modestly than pre-1945.

Right by the main square on the corner with Petrinjska, Budi ponosan (‘Be Proud’) (Tue-Sat 10am-8pm) tells the story of Croatian football, from its beginnings to the World Cup final of 2018. The emphasis is on these recent triumphs but you can still pick out newspaper reports from the early 1990s when the newly independent country was forming its first national side, with details of famous players through the ages. Although in a prominent location – with a Dinamo Zagreb store next door – the space isn’t big enough to cover much more. Admission is free, and it’s well worth a look around. ten minutes’ walk from the stadium, and main square, the Laguna is a Bearings tucked inside a courtyard off the main pleasant three-star with bar and Zagreb’s Franjo Tuđman Airport is street two tram stops closer to town. restaurant. Halfway between stadium 17km (10.5 miles) south-east of the Doubles are charged at an across- and the main station, the Garden Hotel city centre. Half-hourly buses (30min the-board 500kn/€65, rooms for four on Valentina Vodnika comprises 36 journey time, 30kn/€4, pay on board) 800kn/€105. On the other side of the sleek rooms, a bar and restaurant. run to Zagreb bus station. A taxi into road, on the sidestreet of Dragolja town should cost about 200kn/€26. Kušlana, the Zagreb Soul Hostel offers In town, the recommended TABAN doubles and dorm beds in comfortable, marries Japanese interior design with The ZET transport network comprises modern surroundings. Also nearby, an urban youth hostel concept, at B&B trams and night trams, plus buses for A ticket costs 4kn/€0.50 from Bed the Funk Lounge on Rendićeva can prices – and right on the main bar drag outlying areas. Tram Nos.2 and 6 run a newsstand (stamp on board), Info Zagreb (infozagreb.hr) has a also provide cheap doubles walking of Tkalčićeva. The nearby four-star three stops from the bus station to the 6kn/€0.80 from the driver. A day ticket database of hotels. distance from the stadium. Academia impresses with its four-star train station, the No.6 going on to the is 30kn/€4. Radio Taxi Zagreb cabs are rooms and bistro. On the other side main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, parked outside either station or call Near the Maksimir, the best option Close to the Kranjčevićeva Stadium, of the main square, the historic Hotel through which most lines pass. +385 1717. is the three-star of the same name and within easy reach of the station Dubrovnik offers doubles for around

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Pinta is equally lived-in. By the market,

Harat’s is the extremely popular local ZAGREB branch of the successful Russia-wide chain of sports pubs.

The other side of the main square, Boban is an upstairs café with an affordable Italian restaurant below, set up by the Croatian football star of the same name. This is another little bar hub, comprising Charlie’s (Gajeva 4), pub/club/restaurant Bulldog and the Golf. The Alcatraz is a lively spot, always full of locals. American-style Esplanade Brewbites at Gajeva 10 is lined with TV screens showing sport, decked out in memorabilia and takes no prisoners where burgers are concerned.

Towards the station, the Čeh (‘Czech’) Pub serves Bohemian beers amid old music posters – though doesn’t open Sundays or Saturday lunchtimes – while across this junction of the train station. On the other side of with three floors of groovy colours. Oliver Twist (No.60) and the Pivnica Hebrangova and Preradovića, the the Art Pavilion, the Astoria is a handy Just behind on Supilova, the Hotel Mali Medo (No.36), with its in-house Old Pharmacy Pub makes a decent mid-range option. National can provide a comfortable, beer, alongside several spots with attempt at authenticity. Sheridan’s 900kn/€120. Also close, on the main affordable stay while behind on Ivana football on large outdoor TV screens. on Savska, towards the Kranjčevićeva street of , and affordable, is the The most famous hotel in town is Bunića Vučića, the Sliško does the job The Sunčani Sat (No.27) and Ožujsko stadium, does better than that – it’s jägerhorn, upgraded from a pension the Esplanade, built by the station to with 49 ‘budget’ and ‘comfort’ rooms. (No.16) are old favourites, History Irish-run, and favours GAA over to a hotel. serve the Orient Express, and host to Also close, on the main street of Village (Nos.57-68) has a wider soccer. royalty and film stars. Orson Welles Vukovara, the DoubleTree by Hilton is culinary remit. For upscale gatherings, the football was a famous regular here. Nearby on a different category altogether, with a By the Zagreb Arena just over the fraternity prefer the equally central tram-lined Branimirova, the functional panoramic gym, pool and sauna. Also close, on parallel Radićeva, the river, Dribbling would clean up in the Sheraton at Kneza Borne 2, while the Central stands almost as close to the Pinta appeals to local football fans city centre – here on Lanište, it’s a Palace is an Art-Deco classic dating station. Bars with its homely atmosphere, TV and superior sports bar filled with Croatian back to 1907. It’s also conveniently On the main bar street of Tkalčićeva, lack of tourists. A few buildings up, football iconography, used by locals located by the Zrinjevac tram stop, For the bus station, almost opposite, winding the other side of the market the MK Bar, known as ‘Krolo’ after the who call this burgeoning part of town halfway between the main square and the No.9 has boutique pretensions from the main square, you’ll find the writer Miroslav Krleža who lived here, home.

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at Maksimir, the small station behind STADIUM MAKSIMIR the stadium a ten-minute walk to the ground through a tangle of residential streets.

Tickets There’s a ticket hut in the main forecourt. For most Dinamo games, it’s 50kn-70kn/€6.60-€9.25 for the best seats in the West Stand, 40kn/€5.25 in the East Stand opposite, and 30kn/€4 in the home North end.

Bars As you approach the stadium from town, bars line Maksimirska cesta, Kocka (No.104), Boro’s (No.119) and Storm (No.123) closest to the stadium. Further along, below the stadium, the BBB fan bar is decked out in Dinamo history but a no-no on match days. Also on this side of the road, just inside the park gates, the Restoran The nascent Yugoslav national side symbolic prelude to the full-scale the Dinamo management, routine Maksimir is a lovely restaurant and mainly used the Kranjčevićeva, war that soon broke out between before low crowds. terrace bar, with a full Croatian menu. where Lokomotiva now play. Newly Serbs and Croats. Zvonimir formed Dinamo moved into the Boban famously aimed a kick at The Maksimir comprises four stands: Across the road, at the junction Maksimir from day one in 1945, a policeman, a Bosnian Muslim, the main West one (Tribina Zapad) and of Maksimirska cesta and Svetice Maksimir Stadium when it became the main focus for springing to the defence of a Dinamo the Tribina Istok (East) facing it along ulica by the stadium car park, Caffè football in Zagreb. Dinamo’s home- fan. the sidelines; the home North end Royal and Maksimilijan are standard Set alongside the park of the same leg win over Leeds in the Fairs’ Cup and the South one opposite, where the Croatian café-bars. The latter has a TV name, established by the eponymous final took place here in 1967. Since the break-up of Yugoslavia, handful of visiting fans are generally and slightly more atmosphere. Further bishop who had this area of greenery Dinamo have dominated the gathered. Capacity is 35,000. down, Daba is more comfortable. Also landscaped for the public in the late And it was also here in 1990 that independent Croatian league. on this side of the stadium, the Ožujsko 1700s, the Maksimir has hosted soccer Dinamo’s notorious Bad Blue Boys Only big international matches, Transport Pub Maksi is a large, modern sports for over 100 years. Organised football took on their counterparts from derbies with Hajduk and occasional Tram Nos.4, 5, 7, 11 or 12 run to the bar/restaurant with beer brewed on- was first played here in 1912, when the , the Delije, fans European games see the Maksimir Park Maksimir stop, 11 and 12 from the site. Within the ground, Plavi Korner Croatian FA was formed. Pre-war club fighting on the pitch at a Yugoslav lively. Everything else is routine main square. The No.4 goes from the kiosks serve snacks and, depending on HAŠK made the Maksimir home. league game. The riot is seen as a and, with the BBB displeased with train station. Some regional trains stop the fixture, Ožujsko beer.

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Dinamo Zagreb ZAGREB DINAMO As iconic to Zagreb as its Cathedral or the , Dinamo (gnkdinamo. hr/en) have been the flagship team of the Croatian capital ever since Tito had the club formed from the ruins of three pre-war outfits in 1945.

As demonstrated by 11 straight title wins up to 2015-16, followed by two more, Dinamo have dominated the Croatian game since independence, long overshadowing their cash- strapped eternal rivals Hajduk Split. But currently all is far from rosy at Dinamo, outspoken chairman Zdravko Mamić sentenced to jail for tax evasion and other financial transgressions in relation to profits from the transfers of Luka Modrić and other stars. Leaving his brother Zoran, a former Dinamo club captain, as manager, Zdravko Mamić is on the run in Bosnia. For transport, ticket and general bar details, see p7. Meanwhile, Dinamo’s core fan group, Belgrade) that took all but four Yugoslav the dissolution of Yugoslavia, and United. What happened to the profits the Bad Blue Boys, are boycotting championships from 1945 to 1991. its league, Dinamo were forced to from their transfers is an entirely Shops & bar games. Perhaps the most satisfying came in play under different names, the different matter. Dinamo have two official stores, one 1982, the first for 24 years, a team led populist campaign to restore sanity behind the main stand at the stadium, Never relegated from the top flight, by later Croatia World Cup coach Ćiro galvanising the fanatical support of Dinamo’s history is inextricably linked the other in town by the main square neither when part of the Yugoslav Blažević. In Europe, Dinamo were a the Bad Blue Boys. to the Maksimir, the de facto national at Jurišićeva 2A, alongside the Budi league and the Croatian one they have feared name too, beating Don Revie’s stadium but very much a club ground, ponosan Croatia football museum. dominated since 1991, the Plavi (‘Blues’) Leeds to win the Fairs’ Cup in 1967, the Winning a weak Croatian league too. The colour scheme, the murals, Both have regular opening hours. started out by inheriting players, first Yugoslav side to win a European practically every season, Dinamo the outlets, the fan bar, all serve Nearby, at Ilica 37, the Bad Blue colours and stadium from the clubs that trophy. have been regular competitors in the Croatia’s most decorated team. The Boys have their own outlet, set in a were disbanded to create them. Champions League, the likes of Luka Dinamo fans who do turn up these courtyard. Behind the home North The modern era began with a Modrić, Niko Kranjčar and Eduardo days occupy the middle sector of the Stand at the Maksimir, the BBB have Dinamo were one of a quartet (including riot, when Dinamo and Red Star putting in creditable performances North Stand but unless Hajduk are in their own bar, decked out in images Hajduk Split, Partizan and Red Star Belgrade fans clashed in 1990. After against Real Madrid and Manchester town, away support is equally minimal. showing Dinamo history.

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Gorica GORICA

On the south-eastern fringe of Zagreb, the burgeoning suburban community of Velika Gorica was integral to the Croatian capital until 1995. While a large metropolis tends to swallow up surrounding communities, such is the prominence of this self-standing city that it has its own status, identity and football team: HNK Gorica (hnk- gorica.hr).

Benefitting from the proximity of on its doorstep, Velika Gorica has grown from an agricultural Tickets village to a reasonably affluent From the kiosk on ulica Šandora dormitory town. In similar vein, Gorica Brešćenskog by the main stand, have emerged from an unpromising admission on match day costs around merger in 2009 to scale the Croatian 40kn/€5.30. Availability is not an league pyramid. issue.

Formed after post-war workers’ Bars club Radnik folded, Gorica had been Opposite the HBZ-Centar-škola bus knocking on the door of the 1. HNL for stop on Zagrebačka, the modern three years when they won the 2. HNL 5,200-capacity municipal ground was Transport Alternatively, you can wait until the LoBBy Bar shows matches on its in 2018. converted into an all-seater in 2019. It’s a 20-25min bus journey from bus starts up again, and stay on for comfortable terrace. At the other end Most gather in the main West Stand, Zagreb, either the No.268 from two more stops back towards Zagreb, of ulica Hrvatske Bratske Zajednice, Although Gorica cannot incorporate Tribina Zapad, behind the Pastuh the main train station or the alighting at HBZ-Centar-škola and at the junction facing the stadium, the 64-year heritage of their restaurant, though only the upper No.290 from Heinzelova 8, where walking up ulica Hrvatske Bratske the rustic Konoba Bukara exudes predecessors – a top-tier team in the rows of the blue-and-white seats are Rakovčeva meets Martićeva close Zajednice to the end. This is the stop tradition, all dark wood, hearty early 1990s – into their brief history, covered. Opposite, the Tribina Istok, to Kvaternikov trg. Both lines run you need back to the city. The No.268 soups, hefty meat platters and beers they did inherit the Stadion Radnika, the East Stand, is also open, half-a- to the terminus at Velika Gorica, runs every 15min, the No.290 every including Ožujsko, Bavaria and aka the Gradski stadion Velika dozen rows of seats in the middle, from where you can walk the 30min-1hr, via the airport. Both have Staropramen. At the ground, behind Gorica, almost walking distance from standing terraces either side. Those 15min to the ground, left at main services until 11pm at least, seven the main stand, the Pastuh is similarly the airport. Among the many sporting nearest the north end, Tribina Sjever, Zagrebačka, right at ulica kralja days a week. A taxi from Zagreb old-school, classic dishes prepared facilities built for the World Student are sectioned off for away fans. There Zvonimira, left at avenija Pape should take 15-20min and cost about on a wood-fired grill, Karlovačko beer Games or Universiade of 1987, this are no places behind either goal. Ivana Pavla II. 250kn/€33. light and dark on tap.

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stop, served by Nos.3, 9 and 12. From LOKOMOTIVA/STADION KRANJČEVIĆEVA the main square, take No.12, from the train station, No.9. Alighting from the tram, you’ll see the stadium ahead of you, over the crossroads.

Tickets There are two ticket kiosks along Kranjčevićeva, where admission is around 40kn/€5.30 on match days.

Bars Just inside the main gates of the stadium, Veselo Nepce offers classic Croatian dishes, ćevapčići rissoles Lokomotiva/ and grilled squid, at absurdly low prices. The terrace is ideal for pre- Stadion Kranjčevićeva match beers, also standard domestic Marking ten years of top-flight options. Opposite the ground on football in 2018-19 and three Europa Kranjčevićeva, the vaguely Australian- League campaigns, Lokomotiva themed Bumerang (note the door (nklokomotiva.hr) are now not only handles) is part-bar, part-internet Zagreb’s second club behind Dinamo café, though the Adoro Caffe nearer but a national force just behind Rijeka the tram stop is more suitable, with and Hajduk. Croatian state against other Axis even dropped out of the third tier and TV sport inside and an expansive powers, the stadium soon lost its have since vacated the Kranjčevićeva terrace. Opposite, on the stadium A railway club dating back to 1914, While Lokomotiva’s base and status to Dinamo’s new home of for the nearby ZAGREBello pitch side, the Pizzeria Dragaš is attached Lokomotiva made third place in a clubhouse is just over the Sava at the Maksimir. After co-hosting the nearer the Sava in Veslačka. to a bowling club, with trophies to strong Yugoslav league in 1952 but Radoslava Cimermana 7, home games Universiade student games in 1987, prove it. had sunk into obscurity before three take place at a historic ground near this was where the Croatian National Meanwhile, Lokomotiva fans gather straight promotions between 2007 the student quarter. Pretty modest Guard gave their first public display in the main (and mainly uncovered) Over at Lokomotiva (Radoslava and 2009 took them up to the top tier. these days, the 8,850-capacity Stadion in the run-up to the war against West Stand nearest Kranjčevićeva Cimermana 7, tram Nos.7 or 14 to Linked to Dinamo – they even played u Kranjčevićevoj hosted Concordia Serbia in 1991. A plaque by the main ulica. Facing it, the open East Stand Trnska then a 7-8min walk), the at the Maksimir – Lokomotiva soon Zagreb from its opening in 1921 to entrance marks the occasion. accommodates the small number of clubhouse bar doubles up is done usurped NK Zagreb as the other main 1945. visiting supporters. out in archive photos of past line-ups team in the capital. In 2014, they After a winning title campaign based and pennants of recent European moved in to share NK’s long-term Stage for international friendlies here in 2001-02, NK Zagreb suffered Transport matches. Opposite, the Caffe bar home, the second stadium in town, involving the three relegations in three seasons The stadium sits by the junction that Sportivo screens matches in smart the Kranjčevićeva. and, during World War II, the Nazi between 2016 and 2018. In 2019, they contains the Tehnički muzej tram surroundings.

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Bed KOPRIVNICA Koprivnica Tourism (koprivnicatourism.com) has a comprehensive database of local hotels. The main one in town, the modern, mid-range Podravina near the city park on Hrvatske državnosti, has a sauna and restaurant. The nearby Marbis on Taraščice consists of apartments and studios, perhaps not four-star as claimed by comfortable all the same. To the right as you leave the train station, the Bijela kuća comprises convenient three-star lodgings, a café and restaurant.

Beer Up from the train station, at the far end of ulica Ivana Meštrovića, courtyard Maraschino has a television on its terrace and displays retro ads for the namesake spirit from Zadar. Diagonally opposite the Hotel Podravina, the expansive Capronca Bearings Pub is the best bar in Koprivnica, with subsidiary Belupo, the pharmaceutical money kicked in and Slaven reached Koprivnica is 105km (65 miles) from big TVs tuned to football, an array of Koprivnica firm which has sponsored the local the top flight. The year before, 1996, Zagreb Airport – see p5 for details of hand-pulled ales and Czech lagers football club since the mid-1990s. the main stand was opened at the transport to the capital. The train to from the Zámecký pivovar in Břeclav. Up by the Hungarian border, a main municipal stadium, the Gradski stadion, Koprivnica is much more frequent and A kids’ playhouse makes any visit stop on the Budapest-Zagreb rail For most of this time, Slaven Belupo on the north-eastern outskirts of town cheaper than the bus, with a dozen family-friendly. line, Koprivnica is defined by brands. have competed in the Prva liga and by the main street that runs through it services a day, 60kn/€8, 1hr 30min First and foremost is Podravka, the starred in Europe. Aris Salonika and north-south. Later it was named after journey time. Koprivnica station is On Zrinski trg, rustic Kraluš dates long-established food company whose Athletic Bilbao both came here and ex-Slaven player Ivan Kušek Apaš. west of town, the stadium east, just back nearly 50 years, a traditional rooftop chicken motif gazes down lost. Playing as Podravka in the 1950s, beyond the centre. Regional buses pub/restaurant displaying Slaven as your train pulls into the station by Slaven was the original name of the Croatia played a full international here, provide infrequent local services. To Belupo match posters in the window. the factory. Its signature product, the club in 1912, although a link to a against Moldova in 2016, proximity to walk to town from the station takes Alongside, contemporary Stefano spicy condiment Vegeta, has taken the student team five years earlier is the Zagreb a plus when also staging U-21 15mins, to the stadium 20. Taxi Sunce offers a pleasant terrace and a TV name of Koprivnica around the world reason for the ‘1907’ on the current games – and the reason for low crowds (+385 99 220 9044) is a reliable local inside, Stars 2002 has loud music and on its packets. Then there’s Podravka badge. It took 90 years before pharma for league fixtures. company. more TVs.

liberoguide.com 11 CROATIA 2019-20 Slaven Belupo www.liberoguide.com/slaven-belupo

Slaven Belupo BELUPO SLAVEN

A permanent presence in the Prva liga since 1997, taking part in four credible European campaigns since 2007, for a small-town club Slaven Belupo (nk- slaven-belupo.hr) have proved a credit to Koprivnica. The Belupo in question is a pharmaceutical company, a subsidiary of Podravka, the food producers whose name in inextricably linked with this manufacturing town by the Hungarian border. modest 3,000-plus, all gathered in the main stand, the Tribina Zapad. Only Though never close to winning the the higher seats are covered, hence title, the Farmaceuti have twice the cheaper prices for seats closer to reached the Croatian Cup final, both the pitch. times losing to Dinamo Zagreb, both times by late goals. Despite this This West Stand is also divided into disappointment, it allowed Slaven three sectors: desno (right) nearest to cause a few surprises in Europe town for visiting supporters, centralni and have officials of Galatasaray, for central and lijevo (left) for home Aris Salonika, CSKA Moscow and fans. In theory, there are standing way to get here from town barely five one you see as you arrive from town, Athletic Bilbao pour over their atlases places in the narrow spaces behind minutes away, and from the station, home fans, their own to the left to find Koprivnica – after having each goal, raising the overall capacity along ulica Ivana Meštrovića then left furthest away. There’s no shop but a worked out that there’s nowhere to 4,000, but these are hardly ever into the centre. Allow 15-20mins. A selection of blue Belupo scarves is called Slaven Belupo. Few relished used. The opposite sideline consists taxi should cost around 30-35kn/€4- sold on match days. the trip, however, even the Basque of advertising hoardings, every other €4.60. giants coming away from the Gradski one promoting Vegeta, the Podravka- Bars stadion with little to show for their produced condiment which enriched Tickets & shop Directly opposite the ground, the travails but an away defeat and a Koprivnica and spread its name There’s a simple pricing policy of Caffe Bar Stadion is one of the best narrow win on aggregate. worldwide. 30kn/€4 covered/natkriveno, ie in the of its kind in Croatia, decorated higher seats of the main, in fact only, with photos of Slaven match action, In 2018, the municipal stadium, just Transport stand, Tribina Zapad, and 20kn/€2.65 particularly from their European north of the town centre, also gained Inter-city Čazmatrans buses call at for the ones nearer the pitch and campaigns. There’s a large terrace, the name of Ivan Kušek Apaš, a the Gradski stadion stop every couple uncovered/nenatkriveno. Away fans handy for pre-match chain smoking, footballs hanging above the counter Slaven player for 20 years after the of hours on weekdays but hardly ever have their own ticket window to the while a modern interior features TV for anyone attempting a diving war and a sports trainer. Capacity is a at weekends. Walking is the easiest right of the main stand, the nearest sport, a betting machine and adidas header over the bar.

liberoguide.com 12 CROATIA 2019-20 Osijek www.liberoguide.com/osijek

Osijek OSIJEK

In Croatia’s far north-east by its borders with Serbia and , Osijek is the largest city of , a great swathe of Pannonian plain largely given over to agriculture. Political connection with Hungary is currently transforming the football scene here. Flagship club NK Osijek have never been relegated from the the old-school Hotel Drava with Croatian top flight – nor been close to three-star singles and doubles. The winning it, despite nurturing prolific most notable hotels in town are the striker, Davor Šuker. historic Waldinger, gym, sauna and quality restaurant and all near the Proximity to Hungary made Osijek a main square, and the riverside Osijek, prime candidate to co-host Euro 2012, with its panoramic spa and terrace a joint bid with Croatia’s northern restaurant. neighbours. Though unsuccessful, it did lead to improvements of the Beer Gradski vrt, the ground located south Local beer Osječko is Croatia’s oldest, of the bus and train stations. In 2015, with craft varieties available around facing bankruptcy, Osijek were saved town. Bars cluster near and along by entrepreneurs from Hungary and the river, and in the historic fortified Croatia, Lőrinc Mészáros and Ivan complex of Tvrđa. There you’ll find Meštrović. With Hungary seeking Bearings the city centre, 15mins north. GPP the Pivnica Merlon, a sport-focused to gain influence in communities it Osijek airport is 20km (12.5 miles) trams serve the city, pay the driver terrace bar in bare-brick, industrial lost after World War I, and currently south-east of the city, on the same 10kn/€1.30 when you board. style. Round the corner, the Fort Pub ruled by a football-mad prime side of town as the stadium. There’s was lively during the 2018 World Cup, minister, it is perhaps no coincidence no public transport into town – Bed as was its neighbour, St Patrick’s. that Mészáros is also mayor of Osječki taxis (+385 31 200 200) should The nearest lodging to the stadium Sport House has transformed a once Felcsút, where the Hungarian prime charge around 230kn/€30. The city’s is the Villa Gradski vrt, a little abandoned section of the train station minister grew up. In 2018, Meštrović bus and train stations are close to guesthouse five minutes away at into a pizzeria and urban bar, with a announced plans for a new stadium each other south of town. Three trains Delnička 17. Near the bus and train long terrace and two-storey modern and club headquarters, to be ready a day arrive from Zagreb (140kn/€19), stations, the Hotel Vila Ariston interior dotted with TV screens. by 2021. Its location is the so-called 5hrs journey time, plus regular buses offers convenient, comfortable, mid- of Zrinjevac, are the basic Prenoćište Upstairs is lined with World Cup Pampas, west of the city centre by the (130kn/€17), journey time 4hrs. range accommodation. Also walking Perla (Zrinjevac 9A), offering cheap posters and framed photographs Drava river. The stadium is a 15min walk south, distance, overlooking the pretty park rooms above a beauty parlour, and including, inevitably, Davor Šuker.

liberoguide.com 13 CROATIA 2019-20 NK Osijek www.liberoguide.com/nk-osijek

Tickets & shops NK OSIJEK For domestic fixtures, you simply pay on the day, from the ticket windows on ulica Woodrowa Wilsona, admission around 50kn/€6.60 in three stands (Istok, Sjever and Jug) and 80kn/€10.60 in the main covered stand, Zapad. For advance sales, the club office at the stadium opens most weekdays, and the Kompas travel agency near the riverside Hotel Osijek at Šetalište kardinala F Šepera 8F NK Osijek also distributes. The tourist office near the main Representing the capital of Slavonia, square at Županijska 2 sells NK Osijek NK Osijek (nk-osijek.hr) are hoping souvenirs, with a wider range of shirts to follow the example of Rijeka and available at nearby Ferivi Sport, break the Zagreb monopoly on the Kapucinska 44. domestic Croatian game. The takeover of the club by Hungarian and Croatian Bars entrepreneurs, Lőrinc Mészáros By the junction of ulica kneza Trpimira and Ivan Meštrović, in 2016, not only and Martina Divalta, Tango on Sjenjak brought European football back to is set between a betting shop and a Osijek for the first time in five years, bank. TV sport plays as locals talk but financed a best-ever run for the football over affordable half-litres Bijelo-plavi, the White and Blues. of Osječko. On the stadium side Towards the end of 2017-18, the first stadium from the Communist era. In covered and housing VIPs and the down ulica Bartola Kašića then of the roundabout, the Restoran full one under the new ownership, the club’s most significant triumph press. Behind each goal, south (Jug) turning right at the roundabout Bijelo-Plavi should be a hotbed of Meštrović also announced the building since the Croatian Cup win of 1999, and north (Sjever) are part-seating and with Vukovarska, and straight down support – instead, it’s a traditional of a new stadium and complex by the 15,000 witnessed Osijek’s 1-0 victory part-standing areas. ulica kneza Trpimira. After the restaurant, with heavy meat platters river Drava, due for completion in 2021. over PSV Eindhoven 1-0 in the 2017-18 underpass, it’s 5-7min. listed in a leather-bound menu. Europa League to eliminate the multi- Capacity is just under 19,000, though Opposite, the Costello and After Dark Home until then is still the Gradski titled Dutch club. the average gate for domestic fixtures From the main square in town, have seats outside and are popular vrt south of town. Opened in 1958, is just over 3,000. board the No.2 tram bound pre-match. Immediately behind the modernised in 1980 when Osijek were Osijek’s stadium comprises one steep- for Bataka, alighting just past the main stand, the Palace provides pre- in Yugoslavia’s top flight, then provided sloping open stand on the east (Istok) Transport roundabout on ulica Martina Divalta. game glugging. Away fans should be with individual seating in 1998, the ‘City side – home of local ultras the Kohorta The stadium is a 15min walk from A taxi shouldn’t cost more than welcome though not wearing Cibalia Garden’ still looks like a municipal – and the main west (Zapad) stand, the bus and train stations, heading 50kn/€6.60. Vinkovci scarves.

liberoguide.com 14 CROATIA 2019-20 Pula www.liberoguide.com/pula

the stadium – the chic Galija on PULA Epulonova is probably the closest, a pleasant, family-run three-star with its own restaurant.

Close to the attraction it’s named after, the Amfiteatar is a notch-above three-star, with 18 stylish rooms and a destination restaurant. Just the other side of the amphitheatre, the Scaletta is another convivial hotel/restaurant combination, equidistant between Pula’s harbour, bus and train stations. Also close on Splitska, the Riviera is a Habsburg-era classic in need of Stadion Aldo Drosina, just south of modernisation but it’s a handy two- Pula’s historic centre. star base.

Bearings Beer , six kilometres (3.5 Pula’s many decent hostelries serve miles) north-east of town, is only Istrian beers such as Favorit and San served by public transport in summer, Servolo. The Old City Bar on Danteov when a Fils bus leaves for the main trg is a good place to start, right in bus station (30kn/€4, 15min journey Pula’s historic centre, with a terrace, time) 30min after budget flights TV sports and classic Croatian arrive. Taxi Pula (+385 99 656 5885) grilled dishes. Even more local in charges around 250kn/€33 from into feel, the Scandal Express on nearby scarves bearing no club name at all, town. Pula bus station is north-east Ciscuttijeva is best frequented when a top-flight team or where they play. only the bright signature stripes of of the amphitheatre at Trg I istarske savvy regulars gather later at night. Pula It’s a situation that recent Russian green and yellow, the colours of the brigade. Regular services from Over on Vukovarska, the Mimoza bar ownership of Istra 1961 failed to City of Pula. Zagreb take 5hrs and cost around and live music venue is also good for The historic Roman city of Pula, at redress. Pula’s convoluted history 150kn/€20. TV football. Further along the same the southern tip of Istria, has always hardly helps. These same fans used to follow now street, the Old Friends Club is set in lacked a football club to match its lower-league NK Istra, the stronger Pulapromet buses cover town, tickets one of Croatia’s first theatres, founded cultural and touristic importance. Istra 1961 are one of two similarly club in the 1990s. Their gradual 11kn/€1.45 from the driver. in 1856. It also screens big games. Pula’s main club, Istra 1961, fail to named clubs playing in the same city, demise coincided with the rise of Istra Just off Veruda ulica near a hub of register with the many visitors here at the same stadium and in the same 1961, who have now spent all but two Bed summer terrace bars, Bass has live for seaside fun and summer music colours. Istra 1961 fans, the Demoni, seasons since 2004 in the top-flight Pula Info (pulainfo.hr) has a hotel bands, DJs, a decent drinks selection festivals. Few even know that Pula has were the first in Croatia to sport 1. HNL. Their shared home is the database. There are none near and TV football on bigger nights.

liberoguide.com 15 CROATIA 2019-20 Istra 1961 www.liberoguide.com/istra-1961

allocated the South Stand, Tribina jug, 1961 ISTRA accessed through Ulaz jug 2 gosti. The best seats are in the West Stand, Tribina zapad.

Transport The stadium is a 10min walk south- east of the town centre – head for trg Republike then down ulica Marsovog polja. If you’re at the bus station, you’re about 1.5km away. Nos.2a and 3a go every 20min, Istra 1961 daily, direct to trg Republike. Tickets Only emerging as Pula’s prime For bigger league games, such as football club in the early 2000s, Istra against Dinamo Zagreb, tickets go 1961 (nkistra.com/en) have had on sale two days before the game, various international owners since from the kiosk behind the North 2009 in frequent last-ditch bids to Stand, Tribina sjever. In most other maintain top-flight status. Currently, cases, simply pay on the day. It’s the Zeleno-žuti, the Green and 20kn/€2.70 in the home end (Sjeverni Yellows, are under the same Basque tribina), 30kn/€4 in the East Stand group as Deportivo Alavés in Spain. (Tribina istok), and 40kn/€5.30 in the main West Stand (Tribina zapad) and As Uljanik, the club had been After the player’s death in 2000, the better football grounds. The original away South Stand (Tribina jug) – all confined to the lower flights, both in stadium was renamed after him. ground dated back to when Pula cash only. the Yugoslav and the independent Second-flight Uljanik reached the belonged to Italy before the war. The Croatian set-ups. The name of Pula’s Croatian Cup final in 2003, then Campo del Littorio, used for Italian Bars shipyards, Uljanik could trace their eclipsed their erstwhile city rivals, NK Serie B fixtures, centrepieced a sports Some fans meet at the Bulevar on history back to 1948, their star player Istra, relegated from the second tier complex. Rebuilt and reopened in Arsenalska, parallel to the waterfront, striker Aldo Drosina. In 1961, they that same year, never to return. 2011, the new stadium featured a a historic building that housed the merged with NK Pula to form NK covered main stand, with individual Yacht Club in the Habsburg days. Istra, Pula’s top club until the early Renamed Istra 1961 in 2007, the club seating throughout. A month later, Nearer to town, bars by the market 2000s. In 1964, another Uljanik was also changed to colours of green and Croatia played a full international on Narodni trg are also handy. At formed, overshadowed by NK Istra. yellow upon the insistence of fans here, a 4-2 win over the Czech the ground, you’ll find the adjoining When a new Croatian league started NK Istra also occupied the city’s main who had switched allegiance from NK Republic. Capacity is 10,000. Home standard Samson and San Marco bars up in 1992, NK Istra were Pula’s stadium, revamped and officially Istra to Istra 1961. Both clubs share fans, the Demoni, occupy the North by the training pitch – look out for the representatives. opened by Aldo Drosina in 1995. the Aldo Drosina, one of Croatia’s Stand, Tribina sjever. Away fans are yellow umbrellas.

liberoguide.com 16 CROATIA 2019-20 Rijeka www.liberoguide.com/rijeka

Brasserie AS Rijeka RIJEKA

Home of Croatia’s league champions in 2017, Rijeka is a port city with a fiery passion for football. After the 25-year monopoly of the domestic game by Zagreb and Split, Rijeka was rewarded for its communal dedication when flagship club HNK Rijeka ended Dinamo’s 11-year grip on the title.

The 2016-17 season was the first full one played at the Stadion Rujevica. This modest ground, expanded and improved prior to the subsequent European campaign in 2017, was part of HNK’s training camp. This will be Rijeka’s home turf until 2021- 22, when a completely revamped €25-million arena should be unveiled Jadran at the seafront Kantrida.

So close to the Adriatic you only need by bus with Zagreb (100kn/€13, Kantrida to walk ten paces from the stadium 2.5hr journey time). Two trains a day and you’re striding on beach towels, (120kn/€16, 4-4.5hr journey time) run is the best place in town, with a the stablemate Jadran (‘Adriatic’) Belgian beers, terrace tables and TV the Kantrida is also home to the from Zagreb to Rijeka rail station just spa and restaurant. For an original is a notch above, its restaurant football. Alongside, party-focused Armada, Rijeka’s lively ultra following. west of the bus concourse. stay, the Botel Marina by the docks overlooking the sea. Pommery also has a huge terrace. provides two-star lodgings in a large On the Korzo, Nad Urom sits atop a Bearings For the Stadion Rujevica further west, boat moored by the main dock – the Beer shopping centre, with TV football on is on the island of you’ll need an Autotrolej city bus, restaurant’s worth a look-in anyway. Rijeka is a party town, with bars and a panoramic terrace, at eye level with Krk 25km (15.5 miles) south of tickets (10kn/€1.30 on board). A day Overlooking the canal, the modern clubs lining the waterfront. These the namesake clock tower. At the port town. Buses (50kn, journey time pass is 20kn/€2.65. three-star Continental has a history include the Phanas Pub, convivial end of the Korzo, the lively Fiorello is 45min) connect with incoming flights dating back to the Habsburg era. daytime and mental on the right night named after the legendary New York then run to Rijeka bus station at trg Bed Behind, in the same Hoteli Jadran – TV screen too – and the more club- mayor who served at the US consulate Žabica, alongside the city centre and Visit Rijeka (visitrijeka.eu) has a group, the Neboder (‘Skyscraper’) like Karolina. here in the early 1900s. Over on Frana waterfront. Radio Taxi Rijeka (+385 database of hotels and an online has also improved since it was a Supila, the River Pub doubles up as a 51 585 585) should charge around booking service. By the focal square hangover from the Socialist days. A few steps inland towards the main live venue while on nearby Dolac, the 250kn/€33. Rijeka is also connected of Trg Riječke rezolucije, the Bonavia Further east on Šetalište XIII divizije, street Korzo, the Brasserie AS offers Bačva Pub is ideal for match-watching.

liberoguide.com 17 CROATIA 2019-20 HNK Rijeka www.libero.guide.com/hnk-rijeka

25-30min until after 10pm, including HNK RIJEKA Sundays. They also call at Rijeka train and bus stations. A taxi from town should cost around 40kn/€5.30.

Tickets & shops For advance sales, your best bet is the club shop in town at P Rittera Vitezovića 1, past the far end of the Korzo just before you reach the canal. There’s another behind the main stand at the Kantrida. Kiosks on the sloping pathway up to the stadium operate on match days – admission should be around 50kn/€6.60.

Bars Two options sit behind the away end. The Docker Pub at Rujevica 6 is the perfect find, with TV sport, a range of beers and a sun-catching terrace. Note also the retro Yugo pennants around the bar area. Close by, down the slope, Lovorka is a haven for carnivores, a classic Balkan grill, have also won two Croatian Cups in From 1987, fiery supporters the Armada behind the south (Jug, sektor J) goal, with Croatian Karlovačko on draught three seasons and beaten the likes adopted the trends of Italian ultra the Armada occupying the north (Sjever) and its own terrace. Armada fans of Milan, Feyenoord and Liège in groups, but they had little silverware end. The main west stand is covered. have their own little bar, Način European home legs. to cheer until the arrival of Ligurian života, on the same side of the entrepreneur Gabriele Volpi. Selling Transport ground. Home, for the moment, is the Stadion key Rijeka striker Andrej Kramarić to Both Rujevica and the Kantrida are HNK Rijeka Rujevica, a former training pitch Leicester for a record €13.5 million in in the far west of town, past the train On the main road, on the city side of reconfigured for medium-term use 2015, Volpi saw value in a club with a station. The Rujevica Stadion has the overpass before you reach the With a passionate fan base and an while the legendary Kantrida stadium is relatively straightforward passage to its own stop on bus route 7A, which stadium, a row of cafés includes ambitious, oil-rich Italian owner, being rebuilt. Hewn from a stone quarry Europe each season. calls at Riječki nebođer by the focal Donatello (Antuna Barca 10), lively HNK Rijeka (nk-rijeka.hr) have risen and set by the beach of the same name, square of Jadranski trg in the city pre-match, while next door Riba Stan to become Croatia’s second club. the Kantrida saw top-flight league The club has duly increased capacity centre and Brajda near the train is great for pre-match eats. At the Breaking Zagreb’s grip on the league action after NK Kvarner became NK at the Rujevica to 8,300. Away fans are station. On the way back, both the ground, behind the main stand, an by winning a first title in 2017, Rijeka Rijeka in the mid 1950s. allocated the narrow, 400-seat terrace 7 and 7A stop at the stadium every open bar dispenses Ožujsko beer.

liberoguide.com 18 CROATIA 2019-20 Split www.liberoguide.com/split SPLIT

just before half-time of a clash Split between Hajduk and Red Star Belgrade, the news came over that Could any stadium in Europe bask in a Tito had died. Players, officials and better setting? Backdropped by a blue crowd stopped as one, and many Adriatic a stone’s throw away – you began to weep. The game was could see the stone drop through the abandoned. water, in fact – the Poljud occupies a natural bowl in the area of the same At the time, Hajduk were one quarter for rugby, the old pitch is still where For major Hajduk games – sadly a mired in financial gloom, so the Poljud name north of the centre of sport-mad of the Yugoslav Big Four, along with the Hajduk following, the Torcida, still rarer and rarer occurrence these days is crumbling. Plans to revamp the Split. As if this weren’t enough, the de Dinamo Zagreb, Partizan and Red gather in the clubhouse bar. Here, – and Croatian internationals, Split’s stadium were put on ice when Croatia facto capital of Dalmatia is home to a Star from Belgrade. Following the though, the ultra tradition dates back waterfront Riva reverberates with failed to achieve co-hosting rights for passionate fan culture like no other. break-up of Yugoslavia, the fractured long before the Italian fashion of the fireworks and parades. The Dalmatian Euro 2012. Given the Poljud’s setting, The recent sorry fortunes of local club sporting scene was patched up for post-1980s. This fan culture, fiery diaspora, just in from Australia, North a new stadium elsewhere would be Hajduk are followed across southern basketball – but not for football. A celebrations, torch flames, banners America or whichever shore-leave out of the question. At 8,600, Hajduk Croatia, islands included. Every other weak Croatian League is dominated and co-ordinated chants, were copied port their ship happened to have easily attracted the biggest league bar, boat and taxi driver’s window by Dinamo – Hajduk last won the title from grainy cinema newsreel footage docked at, gather to party and march gates in 2018-19 but have only once features the white, red and blue of the in 2005. of the 1950 World Cup in Brazil. With up to the Poljud via the Stari Plac. reached the European group stages oldest club in former Yugoslavia. Rio as their role model, the Torcida this century. Major investment is Before 1979, Hajduk were based at the were practising South American But the patriotic, populist Torcida required in both club and stadium. A venue worthy of such a legacy was Stari Plac, behind the National Theatre football customs on the terraces of have had to witness perennial built under Tito for the Mediterranean just beyond the ruined Roman palace Europe for decades before got mismanagement of their beloved Split’s other team, RNK, came within Games of 1979. Eight months later, in the heart of historic Split. Now used imaginative. club. Just as Hajduk have declined, two points of Hajduk in 2011 to take

liberoguide.com 19 CROATIA 2019-20 Split www.liberoguide.com/split

outshines its faded grandeur. Round the corner, overlooking the sea, the SPLIT Adriana offers affordable rooms above its pizzeria. Deeper into the palace, the Hotel Slavija off trg Braće Radića is a converted Yugo-era hostel.

Over at Bačvice, the Park is perfectly situated for beachside relaxation, its spa a paid-for extra.

Beer Žbirac Split has two bar hubs: the Roman palace and Bačvice, just over the railway bridge. Palace options abound. The bohemian Academia Ghetto Club (Dosud 10), near the Hotel Slavija, has dedicated a whole wall to RNK Split and a courtyard for convivial drinking. Follow the yellow arrows marked ‘bar grill’ for the no-frills terrace bar with a sea view, the legendary Dioklecijan, known by all as ‘Tre Volte’, filled with Hadjuk display of guests’ messages. For a memorabilia. If watching sport with higher level of comfort further down hard-drinking Aussie backpackers third place. The subsequent European 30mins), alongside the underused from kiosks) run from the edge of the Lovretska, the Hotel Globo is a stylish appeals, Charlie’s on Petra Kružića adventure was ended, narrowly, by train terminus and diagonally opposite historic centre further out of town, to four-star. Closer to town at Ante should be for you. Nearby GAGA on Fulham. A seven-campaign stay in the the harbour for boats to the islands. destinations including the Poljud. Starčevića 1, the upper mid-range Iza Lože puts up big screens outdoors 1. HNL came to an end in 2017 and the The seafront Riva and historic centre Hotel President offers easy access and in while serving potent cocktails. Crveni, the Reds, now sit in the third are close by. Also based here, Radio Bed to both stadium and historic centre, tier. Home is the Park Mladeži, close Taxi Split (+385 21 473 737) should Visit Split (visitsplit.com/en) has where the many options include the Overlooking Bačvice beach, Žbirac to the Poljud. charge around 250kn/€33 from airport a hotel database. The modest yet Marmont on Zadarska, with its roof- attracts sunseekers by day, savvy to town. Many hotels also arrange friendly Split Guesthouse & Hotel terrace bar. Nearby, the Hostel D&D Spličani after dark, when there’s TV Bearings transfers. offers two-, four- and six-bed rooms on Obrov is a superior example of football inside. Further along, near is at Kaštela, 20km on the corner of Lovretska and main the contemporary hostel while the the tennis courts of Firule where (14 miles) north-west of town, near Walking is the only way to get around Zrinjsko-Frankopanska leading up to 125-year-old Bellevue on prominent Goran Ivanišević started out, Egoist Trogir. Regular buses head to the main the pedestrianised town centre. the stadium. Stoke fans seemed to trg Republike echoes old-school is a sport-centric lounge bar near a bus station (30kn/€4, journey time Local Promet buses (11kn/€1.50 enjoy their stay here, according to the tradition. A location by the waterfront stretch of beaches.

liberoguide.com 20 CROATIA 2019-20 Hajduk Split www.liberoguide.com/hajduk-split

Hajduk Split SPLIT HAJDUK

Inspired by Slavia Prague, football- crazy students formed Hajduk Split (hajduk.hr/eng) to display their national identity under Habsburg rule. A photo at Prague’s famous U Fleků pub shows a gathering of idealistic chaps in boaters. A century later, Hajduk fans returned to play Financially unstable as Dinamo Slavia – only to stop the game with a dominated a weak Croatian league, pitch invasion. A hajduk was a Balkan Hajduk almost disappeared before bandit who defied Ottoman rule. The a fan-backed movement secured name suited, as did the Croatian a quarter ownership. Domestic coat-of-arms that became the Hajduk silverware is rare but Hajduk still badge. Coupled with the founding make Europe every year. year of 1911, it’s painted all over Split – across Dalmatia, in fact, as Hajduk Holding 35,000, the Poljud has seen represent the region. better days. The Tribina Sjever, the North Stand, is the home end. The Hajduk won pre-war titles and Tribina zapad (West) and istok (East) became the flagship club for Tito’s offer decent seats along the sidelines. Partisan forces. Their reluctance Away fans occupy a section of the East to participate in fascist Zagreb’s Stand nearest the otherwise empty Games rarely sell out. The Hajduk Bars football set-up endeared them to Tito. south end. Fan Shop at Trogirska 10, one street The classic Torcida bar (Zrinsko- Zagreb’s clubs were disbanded after up from the fish market in town, Frankopanska 17) at Stari Plac sits 1945. Hajduk remained. Success soon Transport sells tickets (cash only) during the between the standard Stari Plac followed. Playing at the Stari Plac and Bus No.17 (direction Spinut) runs week of the match – 40kn/€5.30 café and the rugby-oriented Treće backed by the newly formed Torcida every 35mins to the Poljud from the behind the home, north goal Poluvrijeme (‘Third Half’). Behind a fan group, Hajduk won the Yugoslav main market or the National Theatre. (Sjever), 60kn/€8 in the East (Istok) light-blue door, one floor up, photos League three times in the early Otherwise it’s a 15-minute walk Stand, 80kn/€10.50 in the West illustrate Hajduk history. Trophy- 1950s, then thrice again in the 1970s. from the top of Marmontova – via the (Zapad) Stand. clutching players are carried on In 1979, the Poljud was unveiled by Torcida clubhouse at Stari Plac, of supporters’ shoulders, trilby hats are the Adriatic. Revolutionary in design, course. Other Hajduk outlets are located on thrown in unison from terraces. the sea, classic Dalmatian restaurant this futuristic, shell-shaped arena the sea-facing side of the stadium, Stari Mornar offers charcoal-grilled witnessed Hajduk’s many European Tickets & shops on the second floor of the Joker At the Poljud, on the sea-facing side, squid and spiny lobster. On match runs – and Croatia’s ever-more Ticket huts dot the stadium mall (put Brodarice 6) and at the the Caffe-Bar Hajduk is decked out nights, grilled meat and beer stalls prestigious internationals. concourse near the No.17 bus stop. harbour, alongside the ferries. in club colours. Nearby, lapped by operate behind the East Stand.

liberoguide.com 21 CROATIA 2019-20 Varaždin www.liberoguide.com/varazdin

Varaždin VARAŽDIN

A classic name in Croatian football, Varaždin returned to the top flight in 2019 – while another classic name, Varteks, played in the third tier. The story of this division dates back to the demise of the original club in 2011. A former Croatian capital and historic seat of nobility where the Slovenian and Hungarian borders meet, Strauss Varaždin appeared in six domestic cup finals and in European ties from Mallorca to Moscow. It was here that Zagrebačka meets Franca Prešerna. Aston Villa suffered an aggregate Across that junction, the family-run defeat in 2001. Pension Maltar offers affordable comfortability. Near the main square, The stadium, opened 70 years before the stately Istra dates back to 1911 when the original Slavija club was and houses popular pub, the Dollar formed, stands opposite the Varteks Bar. textile factory, now named after then company boss, Anđelko Herjavec, downturn, Varteks, brand and football from Zagreb to Varaždin (65kn/€8.60) Beer aka Đelac. A marketing genius who team, slumped. Out of bankruptcy, take 2-3hrs, buses (75kn/€10) 1hr By the tourist office, Strauss is a typified the free-market free-for-all of a new club emerged, today’s NK 45mins. Train and bus stations are contemporary lounge bar with a big the 1990s, Đelac steered both Varteks Varaždin, whose own journey from south-east and south-west of town screen for sport, while the Black and its then namesake football club the seventh tier to first came by respectively, the stadium further Dog Pub takes its lead from Led into the modern day. He died in a car way of another bankruptcy in 2015. south. Five Vincek local bus lines Zep and ilk. Nearby, the smarter crash exactly two months before the Meanwhile, malcontent Varaždin cover the city, fairly infrequently, Elephant (Graberje/Stanka Vraza) Villa game. ultras, the White Stones, formed their tickets 4kn/€0.50. Cammeo Taxis also believes in rock’s rich tapestry, own version of NK Varteks. Based at (+385 42 414 414) are based between with retro cameras displayed Đelac not only distributed jeans the Sloboda athletics stadium, Krojači the train station and stadium. between the Bowie posters. By the GOOOL across Croatia and transformed (‘The Tailors’) play in the Third Division Town Hall, the lively Office Bar has Varteks Varaždin. He helped guide North. Bed a TV amid the Americana upstairs. Zlatko Dalić from savvy defensive Tourism Varaždin (tourism-varazdin. Jurinjak has basic rooms. A better Don’t miss the wonderful GOOOL, midfielder to assistant coach, a Bearings hr/en) has an accommodation bet, closer to town, are the rustic signposted opposite the Hotel Turist career later highlighted by him taking Zagreb Airport is 83km (51.5 miles) database and online booking. Nearest Garestin, with its own restaurant at on Zagrebačka, a friendly hangout Croatia to the 2018 World Cup Final. from Varaždin. For details of getting the stadium, halfway to the train Zagrebačka 34, and contemporary for Varteks fans and purveyor of local After Đelac and the global economic into Zagreb, see p5. Regular trains station at ulica Frana Supila 30, the three-star Hotel Turist, where Kahli craft beer.

liberoguide.com 22 CROATIA 2019-20 NK Varaždin www.liberoguide.com/nk-varazdin

NK Varaždin VARAŽDIN NK

Recently promoted NK Varaždin (nk- varazdin.hr) only date back to 2015 in their current guise and 2012 as a revived entity. In that time, Varaždin have risen from the lowest seventh tier to the third, almost gone under, then bounced back to gain top-flight status in 2019.

These brief but eventful details of recent seasons must be seen in the context of what came before. The previous NK Varaždin, known for half a century as Varteks, were one of top The outfit with the more substantial modest. Turn left from the train sides in Croatia after independence. infrastructure has assumed the station onto Frana Supila, right The reason that today’s Varaždin cannot prominent role and top-flight status. from the bus station onto Zrinskih i embellish their heritage with six cup As a former Croatian capital near the Frankopanska then left onto Miroslava final appearances and creditable Hungarian and Slovenian borders, Krleže, before the junction with European campaigns is because the Varaždin has got its football back. Zagrebačka. Allow 10-15mins. collapse of their predecessors gave rise And, as the signed shirts and photos to two clubs. in the Contra stadium bar testify, Tickets & shop this is where Croatia’s manager at Blue kiosks behind the main stand While the team in today’s Prva liga the 2018 World Cup, Zlatko Dalić, on Zagrebačka sell tickets on match play at the same stadium, the Anđelko dominated as a player and developed days, with prices usually set at stand displays club and country Herjavec, as the club who faced as a coach. The Stadion Anđelko 40kn/€5.30, cash only. Alongside the iconography, the link with national Aston Villa, Mallorca and Lokomotiv Herjavec has changed since, with a Contra bar, the small Football Area manager Zlatko Dalić meaning Moscow, many of the ultras, the White covered main West Stand alongside Shop (Mon-Fri 8am-2pm, match there is no shortage of signed World Stones, who witnessed these games Zagrebačka, an open one opposite days) sells a modest array of blue Cup souvenirs. A terrace caters for signalled their displeasure with the and behind the south goal. Capacity is merchandise bearing the rebranded smokers and match-day overspill, the Varaždin management by setting 10,800. logo of NK Varaždin. NK Varteks fans two rooms inside also busy through up their own entity. Considered the have claimed the old badge with the the week. PAN beer on draught. moral successors of the side that Transport signature T in the middle. Nearer town, Macuba at Zagrebačka represented the textile factory of the Three bus lines, Nos.2, 3 and 4 call 87 is a smart glassed-in café filled same name, NK Varteks play in the at the Zagrebačka Kbr 94 (Varteks) Bars with greenery, Piccolo at No.91 has a third flight while based at the Sloboda stop by the stadium – but services Probably the best stadium bar in garden with Teqball and a children’s athletics stadium north of town. are infrequent and walking distances Croatia, Contra behind the main swing. Both places have TVs.

liberoguide.com 23 CROATIA 2019-20 Zaprešić www.liberoguide.com/zapresic ZAPREŠIĆ

other two options are way south or north of town: Gec (Ivana Pintarića 36) is a notch-above three-star lodging with its own restaurant and free Zaprešić parking, but relatively inaccessible for pedestrians, high up above a Across the motorway from the border tangle of main roads the other side between the City and surrounding of Zaprešić station. Some 2km north County of Zagreb, Zaprešić has of the stadium, Trajbar (ulica bana long been a dormitory town for the Josipa Jelačić 199) offers six stylish Croatian capital. Even the revered rooms within an equestrian centre Croatian leader Josip Jelačić had his surrounded by greenery. estate here in the mid-1800s while to Yugoslavia were swept from factory Bearings and calls at Zaprešić station, the main overseeing Parliament 20km away. signs across Croatia, the initially Zagreb Airport is 34km (21 miles) square of trg Žrtva fašizma (where Beer Until 1945, in fact, the main club here renamed Inker achieved the club’s from Zaprešić – for details of getting there’s a taxi stand) and the stadium Bars line central trg Mladosti, the was HŠK Jelačić, starting out as NK only honour to date, the Croatian Cup from Arrivals to Zagreb, see p5. A taxi just north. Train and bus services most homely being Pulona’s Pub, Sava after the river south of town. of 1992 when the War of Independence direct from airport to Zaprešić should back to Zagreb run until after 10pm. with a terrace and friendly regulars. was raging. cost around 400kn/€50. From Zagreb Sgt Pepper and the Dubliners both Today’s Inter Zaprešić have no station, regular trains (12kn/€1.60, Bed get a decorative nod, with a TV in the connection to their illustrious The first leg of the final took place not Sun) take 25mins but the terminus With Zagreb so close and transport corner. Alongside, Pivnica is dowdy namesakes in Milan. After local at the municipal stadium, today’s in Zaprešić is a good 15min walk back operating quite late, there’s no and Alfa much smarter, given its Alfa ceramics firm Industrija keramike Stadion ŠRC, unveiled in 1962. south of town. It may be worth staying pressing need to stay in Zaprešić. Romeo theme, with a TV for sport. withdrew financial support in Upgraded for the World Student on one more stop to Zaprešić Savska Choices are few anyway. Halfway Just across ulica Ante Starčevića, 2003, Inker Zaprešić became the Games hosted by Zagreb in 1987, the a littie closer or taking regular bus between the station and the main Macchiato has large screens and gets more footbally Inter. Until Croatian stadium sits north of town, off the one No.172 from Zagreb Črnomerec square, there are rooms above the lively for Croatia games, while facing independence, this works team was main road running through it north- (10kn/€1.30) by the terminus of tram reputable batak! grill restaurant on it, the terrace at Koala catches the Jugokeramika. When all references south. Nos.2, 6 and 11. This takes 30mins ulica Kardinala Alojzija Stepinca. The morning sun.

liberoguide.com 24 CROATIA 2019-20 Inter Zaprešić www.liberoguide.com/inter-zapresic INTER ZAPREŠIĆ INTER

momentous days of 1992. With a merchandise should be available on capacity of just over 5,000, the ground match days – images of grinning pigs features one main East Stand, divided refer to the local supporters’ group. into Tribina A-C, with B over the halfway line and covered. Behind the Bars opposite sideline, Tribina D comprises Zaprešić is surely the only club in a few rows of grim concrete terracing. Europe with a James Bond theme bar by the stadium – rather a good 1962, when the multi-sports Stadion Inker made sure another 1-0 lead was Transport one, too, Goldfinger, with a TV and Inter Zaprešić ŠRC was opened north of town, enough. Zaprešić train station is a good 15min Connery-era film posters to gawp at. then Inker (‘In–dustrija ker–amike’) walk to town, and 20-25mins to the At the other end of the main stand, the A regular presence in the Prva liga Zaprešić after Croatian independence, Europe eventually opened up after stadium. You can also pick up the Kugla is dedicated to the noble art of since the first independent season carried the factory name. Dinamo’s most famous export, Luka regular bus No.172 to the main square skittles, a pastime that has attracted in 1992 when they won their only Modrić, was loaned out to Zaprešić and then the stadium, or ride it all the many teams from , honour to date, the Croatian Cup, Not across Europe, though, as the in 2004-05. Even at 19, the later way from Zagreb Črnomerec. Services looking at the pennants on display. Inter Zaprešić (inter.hr) can trace conflict in Croatia prevented Zaprešić World Cup hero stood out to inspire back to Zagreb run until after 10pm. Archive photos of Zaprešić complete their history back to 1929. In those 90 from entering the Cup-Winners’ his temporary employers to a claim the decorative picture. Both bars have years, the club has changed its name Cup. The domestic competition they a UEFA Cup berth. By then, the Tickets & shop adjoining roof terraces. Behind the five times, one constant between the won involved seven teams, two from ceramics factory had pulled out, and Admission is usually an across-the- stadium on the south side, named Yugoslav era and the Croatian one war-torn Slavonia. A crowd of 12,000 Inker had become Inter. board 40kn/€5.30 from the kiosk after the local noble estate, Novi being the link with the local ceramics in Zaprešić saw the home side lead behind the main stand, cash-only. Dvor is a humble but homely Croatian factory which once provided Zaprešić, illustrious Dinamo Zagreb, then The other constant is the stadium, Even if Dinamo are in town, there restaurant, its older clientele partly just outside Zagreb, with plentiful named HAŠK Građanski, 1-0 until recently renamed after Ivan Laljak should be a free seat under the roof. A drawn from the army veterans’ centre employment. First Jugokeramika from a late equaliser. In the second leg, Ivić, the club president during those modest selection of blue-and-yellow next door.

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