New York designers : American mood

Autor(en): Moore, Jackie

Objekttyp: Article

Zeitschrift: Textiles suisses [Édition multilingue]

Band (Jahr): - (1989)

Heft 78

PDF erstellt am: 25.09.2021

Persistenter Link: http://doi.org/10.5169/seals-795168

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as they invariably brushed wool is embroidered in Coming,do, at the rail end of the traceries of jet beads, making show season has given the another Beene statement on the subject American ready-to-wear designers of mixing day with evening. the role of consolidators, summing Colour was more important than up many of the trends that have ever in New York but again there is emerged earlier from Milan and more subtlety and elegance rather Paris. This has inevitably given than making bold gestures. critics the opportunity to say that here led the way with his is no innovative talent in New York, gentle blends of colour, described just copyists. by him as the kindest he has ever This is somewhat unfair, since used. Palest sage green is used someone has to show last and who with chocolate and he employs the is to know whether the designers of whole family of sand, camel and Milan could be accused in the same caramel, sometime adding the palest way if the timing were reversed. grey. Even Oscar de la Renta, Certainly there are those collections the flamboyant South American, which encourage that feeling of was restrained in both colours and "déjà vu" but at least what is embroideries this season. A deep copied is the best of Yves Saint raspberry coat was worn with a Laurent and Givenchy. Equally slate grey dress, belted in tan leather. there is much that is truly American A jersey tunic suit is in ochre, in its approach and this was a doubling to heliotrope blue. season which gave Seventh Avenue Young Isaac Mizrahi has a wonderfully the opportunity to present itself at confident eye for colour, mixing its best. The exchange of the sharp- melon, peach and rosewood in edged chic of Nancy Reagan for the corduroy and silk, or all the spices softer style of Barbara Bush is - cinnamon, mustard and saffron reflected throughout the collections are in melton and flannel. A short from what is called the luncheon belted jacket in pumpkin wool is set designers. worn over a paprika T-shirt and This has been a general mood, rose pants. in fact, from the collections of With Calvin Klein, , Armani, Ferré and Versace in Milan Michael Kors and the through to Bill Blass and Oscar de major theme is the one-button la Renta in New York. It has had its jacket, sometimes oversized, over a effect on fabrics, bringing surface simple cable-knit cashmerecrew interest to the fore and reviving a neck sweater and either a gently treasure trove of cloths we haven't wrapped skirt, classic pants or, at seen for many a season. Michael Kors, wide tailored shorts. Ratinés and bouclés were used to The hooded parka jacket is great effect by both the veteran universal, often edged with fur, and and the newcomer in satin, wool velours or quilted Isaac Mizrahi, who each showed microfibre. the deep sleeved, full backed Lengths bare the knee or reach the silhouette that is very strong for next low calf, usually over matching season. Mohair appeared with tights. Oscar de la Renta adds AMERICAN touches angora for soft ponchos at Oscar de la of embroidery to the collars Renta and was featured by young and pockets of his melton coats, as thigh-high knitted Carolina Herrera has gold braid as bubble dresses in his first collection FASHDN MOOD shape emphasis on her black velvet for . jackets, while Michael Kors puts Brushed wools, wool velours and ankle-length skirts in lace under TEXT: JACKIE MOORE navy luxurious cashmere his textured rib knit alpaca or PHOTOS: CHRISTOPHER MOORE jackets. cloths all reminded us that it is the Old gold, pewter and bronze appear handle and texture, together with for evening in metallic twills, lamés colour that really adds up to the and the incredibly lightweight or- fashion story this autumn rather Jersey is growing stronger each most innovative moments, mixing ganzas at Geoffrey Beene. than dramatic changes in shapes. season, whether for softly draped textures with a masterly abandon. Lamé is an important fabric for Alongside the warmer handle woollens dresses or more shapely jackets, A waist length jacket in ribbed wool evening, whether it be the laquered there is an alternative fabric like the Oscar de la Renta U-seamed was paired with flannel pants, a effect florals from Schlaepfer at story, relying on dry, flatter fabrics suits. Double faced cloths and circle of shot taffeta around the Oscar de la Renta, the Paisley but still with softness rather than a reversibles were a special feature of neckline. The abbreviated bolero is patterned bathrobe dresses at Donna crisp finish. Wool or silk crêpes, the New York collections, often his signature this season, the most Karan or the infinite variety of flannel (sometimes printed), and, with fur trimmings for a still more miniscule just a pair of joined animal prints so superbly created above all, jerseys are the leaders luxurious effect. As always it was sleeves in black crêpe. A slightly by Abrahams for Bill Blass. here. Geoffrey Beene who provided the more substantial version in grey 56