Iconography: Organisers ORDER DELIVERY TO An art of promise ‘eye- YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 [email protected]

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Issue No. 228 Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: Balkan party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. gunmen page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro -

refuse to quit a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

Ukrainian page 5 battlefield conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party E Some Balkan volunteers are still fighting alongside pro-Russian separatists in eastern Ukraine despite Friday • June 13 2008 new laws to prosecute them if they

return home, a paramilitary from THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks

Serbia told BIRN in an interview. “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Maja ŽIVANOVIĆ

here are not many Donetsk, the Balkan volunteer fighters of us [fighters from are welcome, Berić argued. the Balkans] here, "In Donbas, only good things can be but these are all heard about Serbs," he said, insisting guys who are true. that he and his fellow volunteers are Our"T people… never left [our] positions still holding their positions as armed and never refused to execute orders," skirmishes between the separatists volunteer fighter Dejan Berić told BIRN and Ukrainian government forces con- in an email interview. tinue despite the ceasefire agreement Berić is a 43-year-old Belgrade-born signed two years ago. entrepreneur, who since 2014 has According to Berić, most of the been fighting for the pro-Russian, self- Donetsk People's Republic fighters who proclaimed Donetsk People's Republic came from the Balkans are from Serbia, rebel territory in the eastern Donbas but there are also four Croats, two men region of Ukraine. from Bosnia's Serb-dominated entity of The Ukrainian government con- Republika Srpska, and three Bosniaks siders men like him to be criminals (Bosnian Muslims). and the Serbian judiciary could pros- ecute if Berić ever returns home, but in Continued on pages 2-3

Local citizens walk in a column during mobilisation training at a shooting range near the Photo: EPA/Alexander Ermochenko pro-Russian rebel-controlled Shakhtarsk, near Donetsk area, Ukraine, on April 6th.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Balkan gunmen refuse to quit Ukrainian battlefield

against pris- Mainly, we fought oners. After his against various release, he continued Nazis, whose fighting in some of the idea is to destroy key battles of the conflict: "Ilovaisk, Debaltseve, the Orthodox Savur-Mohyla, on the southern part of peace, who got the front, around Mariupol… Starobe- sheve." an opportunity Berić claimed that his unit's biggest success was that none of its members to fight against were killed. "We finished every task successfully Russia" and, most importantly, we saved peo- ple. There were hundreds of wounded, but all are alive," he said. Dejan Berić, Over the past three years, he said that a total of 11 Serbs fought in his unit. volunteer fighter "All of them fought honestly, no one of them did anything illegal and we are still in touch… I'm very glad because there are still people in Serbia who are ready to risk their life for an idea, with- three years and how many will die. out any personal benefit," he added. Tens of thousands," he said, although he said that recently, most of the fight- DEATH TOLL ing has been limited to exchanges of KEEPS ON RISING artillery and sniper fire. Berić has remained in Ukraine despite the fact that many other volunteers have returned to Photo: Facebook/Dejan Berić their home countries in recent months. He said that despite various attempts The number of people killed in the to secure a longterm ceasefire, includ- rubles a month [about €240] for sol- nected to Russia and the Donetsk People's "Serbia is little paradise on earth, Ukrainian conflict since April 2014 has ing the Minsk accords, signed in Feb- diers to 50,000 rubles [about €800] for Republic, so he's not planning to go back but unfortunately devils are in power, been estimated by the UN to be around ruary 2015, fighting continues because commanders. home - although if he did, he would face trying to push it to the other side, but I 10,000. "conditions in the field do not allow "As a captain, I have 20,000 rubles at prosecution and possibly end up in jail. believe in God and that Serbia will be Berić said he believes the number of a peaceful solution". The Ukrainians the moment, which is around 320 eu- "But when [Serbia's] treacherous what it should be one day," he added, victims will rise further. blame Russia for this, meanwhile. ros," he said. government changes and [a new one] expressing hope that pro-Russian "You will be surprised, when the war Fighters like Berić receive regular Asked whether he'll eventually return changes the law, I will come as a guest forces will take power in Serbia one is over, how many people died in this salaries, ranging from 15,000 Russian to Serbia, Berić said his life is now con- for sure," he said. day too.

Photo: Beta Pro-Russian militants sit on tanks during their rehearsal for the Victory Day parade in downtown Donetsk, Ukraine, on May 3rd. Photo: EPA/ Alexander Ermochenko

elations between the fight- Russian population [in Ukraine] is fight- who fought alongside pro-Russian forc- Ukraine had also sanctioned Nenad ers are good despite the ing against Russia for them," he said. es had returned and cut deals with the The conflict Popović, the head of the right-wing Ser- fact that they come from The Kremlin has described the prosecutor's office; they pleaded guilty bian People's Party, which is part of the countries which are often Ukrainian government as a "fascist and are expecting to get - or are already in Ukraine has country's ruling coalition. at odds with each other, junta", citing far-right nationalists' sup- serving - light sentences. placed Serbia in a Rhe added. port for the 2014 ‘Euromaidan' upris- In neighbouring Montenegro, one AN EASY ROUTE TO Berić was brought up in the small vil- ing, which ousted corrupt pro-Russian citizen, Marko Barović, was sentenced difficult situation, THE BATTLEFIELD lage of Putinci in northern Serbia, and President Viktor Yanukovych after he to six months in prison on April 15th ran a business making doors and win- refused to seek closer links with the EU, because he fought for the Donetsk Peo- as Belgrade Contrary to some stories published dows in the nearby town of Inđija. and the existence of several Ukrainian ple's Republic; the first conviction of its on the internet, Berić said that becom- But in 2014, after pro-Russian re- nationalist militias who fought against kind in the country. has been torn ing a volunteer is simple - would-be bels declared they were setting up the Russian-backed separatist troops. Meanwhile on March 17th, Bosnia's fighters just need to catch a plane to breakaway Donetsk People's Republic Kiev meanwhile accuses Moscow of State Investigation and Protection between its Rostov-on-Don in Russia and then a bus in the wake of Moscow's annexation of illegally annexing Crimea, arming and Agency searched buildings used by across the border to rebel-held Donetsk Crimea, he closed his business and left militarily sustaining the rebels in east- one person suspected of involvement traditionally or Lugansk in Ukraine. for Ukraine. ern Ukraine, and continuing to stoke in the fighting in Ukraine, the Bosnian good relations "I came from Sochi, where I worked, Many Balkan volunteers say they the violence: "We don't have peace for prosecutor's office reported without via Odessa to Sevastopol, where I be- joined the rebels because of their sym- one reason: Russians are not interested providing further details about the with Russia came a member of the ‘Defence of pathies with Russia and out of a sense in reaching peace. They are interested case. Sevastopol'… Then I went to Donbass," of Orthodox brotherhood - but Berić in exerting control," current President Berić said that some Serbs who came and its pro-EU Berić explained. said that he went there after being per- Petro Poroshenko said on April 18th. to eastern Ukraine to fight have not re- Berić changed military units several sonally invited by two Russian volun- turned home because they have ended orientation. times, and said he was among the re- teers who previously fought in the Bal- NEW LAWS PROSECUTE up getting married and are now living bel fighters who attacked the airport in kan wars in the 1990s. HOMECOMING FIGHTERS with their new families there. Every In December 2016, Serbia refused to Donetsk on May 26th, 2014 - the first of "They called on me to pay back the now and then, they get together to so- vote alongside most EU countries and two bloody battles for control over the debt, in terms of moral and human spir- Berić has remained in Ukraine de- cialise over food or drinks, he added. the US for a UN resolution proposed strategic site, which left it in ruins. it," Berić explained; two days later, he spite the fact that many other volun- "It's nice to hear our language," he by Kiev, calling for international moni- "In the fight for the airport, Ukraine was on his way to Sevastopol in Crimea. teers have returned to their home said. toring of the human rights situation in lost 94 men, while among us, one was According to the Republika Srp- countries in recent months, due to the Crimea. lost - on the roof of the airport from ska government, some 700 Russian stringent laws which now exist in differ- SERBIA IN A TIGHT SPOT The next day, the Ukrainian ambas- shots from an airplane," Berić recalled. citizens fought alongside the Bosnian ent forms across the Balkans and ena- OVER UKRAINE sador in Belgrade, Oleksandr Aleksan- Contrary to his account however, Serbs during the 1992-95 war; there ble the prosecution of people who have drovych, told Serbia's Blic daily that Donetsk People's Republic leader Al- were also reports that Russians fought gone to fight on foreign battlefields. The conflict in Ukraine has placed "this decision could rebound like a exander Borodai admitted at the time alongside the Serbs in the conflicts in Serbia, for instance, introduced such Serbia in a difficult situation, as Bel- boomerang in [Serbia's] efforts to keep that over 50 rebels were killed fighting Croatia and in Kosovo, but their num- a law in 2015. Explaining the move, the grade has been torn between its tradi- Kosovo". to seize the airport, while the Ukrainian bers are not known. government said it had noticed that "a tionally good relations with Russia and On April 13th, Aleksandrovych an- government insisted that the national Asked who exactly he is fighting certain time after participating in a war its pro-EU orientation, which entailed at nounced that Ukraine had slapped a army sustained no losses. against, Berić echoed the Russian slur or armed conflict, [fighters are] return- least rhetorical support for Ukraine. five-year entry ban on three members Berić also claimed that he partici- against Ukrainian forces, describing ing to the Republic of Serbia and be- The participation of Serb volunteers of the right-wing Serbian Radical Party pated in the establishment of corridors them as "Nazis". coming leaders of propaganda activity on the pro-Russian side, as well as the for participating in the celebration of for humanitarian aid from Russia, that "Mainly, we fought against various and encouraging others to participate fact that many Serbian politicians have the "annexation of Crimea to Russia". he was badly wounded in a firefight in Nazis, whose idea is to destroy the Or- in war or armed conflicts in other coun- been promoting pro-Russian separatist While the ambassador did not dis- Donetsk, and that he was imprisoned thodox peace, who got an opportunity tries". politics, have made diplomatic rela- close the names of the banned trio, at Lugansk airport and then sold to the to fight against Russia - at least they see Serbian newspaper Danas reported tions between Belgrade and Kiev com- Serbian state-owned daily Večernje notorious Aidar Battalion, which has it like this, because the killing of the in April 2016 that at least 20 Serbians plicated, if not tense. Novosti reported on the same day that been accused of looting and crimes 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Belgrade-Beijing direct flight on the horizon The Serbian and Chinese relations are improving steadily as Serbia was Iconography An art of rules th : declared the 14 best country to ‘Belgrade visit at a recently held Tour- ist Fair in Shanghai. Belgrade Mayor Siniša Mali, who attended the fair, said last week that the Belgrade in brief in brief Belgrade Mummy' ranking was very positive news for Belgrade and Serbia. Mali also stated that both nations are currently working to establish returns a direct flight route between Belgrade and Beijing. Serbia is the only country in Europe that Don't miss the chance to meet enjoys visa-free travel to China. "The recognition we received at Belgrade's 2,000-year-old Egyptian the recently held Tourist Fair is a confirmation of all the effort that mummy while it's on display in the we have made in the past few months, as we started a huge city next month. campaign in which we called on The mummy of the ancient Egyptian priest Nesmin. Photo: National Museum of Serbia Chinese citizens to visit Serbia," the Belgrade mayor said, accord- ing to the local Telegraf online Ivana NIKOLIĆ The mummy is owned by the Nation- Riđički acquired the mummy while The mummy then spent five years news portal. al Museum of Serbia and is currently travelling throughout Egypt and the in the Montenegrin capital Podgorica elgrade's Mummy,' as it is housed within the Faculty of Philoso- Middle East at the age of 82. Thanks to at the Art Gallery of Non-Aligned Coun- Yugoslav Defence popularly known in Serbia, is phy's Archaeological Collection. his generous donation, many consider tries. However, it did not remain on Ministry memorial not often on public display so So how, you might ask, did an Egyp- him a founder of Egyptology in Serbia. display for long as it did not fit with the make sure you book ahead tian mummy ended up in faraway Bel- Riđički died in 1893. social-realist spirit of the institution. An international tender for the ‘B to see it, and learn something about its grade in the first place? Nesmin has had quite an interest- In 1992, the mummy was transferred memorial complex at the site of the Yugoslav Defence Ministry remarkable history, next month. In 1888, the wealthy industrialist and ing history ever since it ‘moved' to to Belgrade's Faculty of Philosophy will be announced by the end The mummy of the ancient Egyptian landowner Hadži Pavle Riđički bought Serbia. Until the 1960s, it was part of but it was not until 2012 that the famed of May, the state news agency priest Nesmin, aka the Belgrade Mum- the mummy while in Luxor "not for the museum's permanent exhibition. Nesmin – the only mummy in Serbia – Tanjug reports. The building, my, will be on display on May 13th and himself, but for the Serbian people". He However, it was then moved to a de- was exhibited for the first time since the which was badly damaged on May 24th at Kapetan Mišino Zdanje brought it with him to Belgrade several pot, far from visitors' eyes, because of 1960s. during NATO bombing in 1999, (Captain Miša's Mansion), accessible via months later and immediately donated changes to the museum's exhibition Book ahead to see the mummy by is the most famous ruin in the downtown's Vuka Karadžića street. it to the National Museum of Serbia. policies. email: [email protected]. city and was placed on a list of protected cultural heritage sites six years after it was bombed. It has not been yet been renovated, largely due to the cost. The competition was announced by a Kalenić market makeover announced committee for the erection of the monument, headed by Serbian Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić. The memorial complex will be After next to no investment over the dedicated in honour of Stefan Nemanja, the Grand Prince and past 50 years, this popular Belgrade founder of the Nemanjić dynasty during the Middle Ages. market will soon get a new look and The art of iconography has seen a new revival in Serbia, after the defeat of communism. Photo: BIRN/Siri Sollie European longer opening hours. Opera Days at Madlenianum modern reli- surface requirement, means frescos Religious icon painting is thriving gious art histo- Sometimes, are a product of teamwork. From Friday, May 5th until Satur- Siri SOLLIE ry at the acad- This was one of the reasons why day, May 13th the European Opera in Serbia, as the Orthodox Church's emy, adds. when making an both Janković and Panjić chose this Days event will be held at the he oldest city market in Bel- grade, said that the market site will be "The icon specialisation, as they enjoy the crea- Madlenianum Theatre and Opera grade, Kalenić pijaca, will completely reorganised. influence continues to increase doesn't have tive expression and the result of com- House in the Zemun municipal- icon, it is like you ity of the capital. This is the 10th be upgraded with modern The key goal is to make stands easier to be beauti- bined input from various artists. market stands in the coming to access for shoppers. In addition, new after communism. ful, although it Janković recalls how physically de- time Madlenianum has taken part T transfer your life in the festival, and this year the days, according to a report issued by lighting will be installed so the market helps it be more efficient in transfer- manding it was to work on a fresco in Opera Days will be celebrated the Belgrade City Markets (JKP Gradske can stay open after dark, so lengthen- ring the prayer… You don't pray to the force - it feels like the basement of the Temple of St Sava by more than 70 operas in 18 pijace) recently. ing opening hours. Alongside reorgan- icon itself, you pray to the saint." in Belgrade, where all the artists had countries. During the event, Kalenić pijaca dates back to 1926. Photo: Beta entrance to all shows is free of During the last 50 years, no money ising the market, 23 old market stalls on Siri SOLLIE internationals - are currently enrolled Observing another student at work magic." to work together in a confined space. charge except for the Krvava has been invested at the fair ground of Maksima Gorkog street will be replaced Kalenić pijaca is considered an im- lar markets, due to its location and its at the academy, divided across differ- on an icon of the archangel Michael, Dubikajtis, on the other hand, Svadba – Bolero (Bloody Wedding Kalenić pijaca, one of Belgrade´s most with 28 new ones, which will be in- portant and integral part of the history wide range of products, Belgrade City he has done every- ent branches and levels of education. Mitrović underlines there is still room chose to specialise in icon painting, – Bolero) ballet, for which tickets popular markets. Belgrade City Mar- stalled in accordance with modern Eu- of Belgrade, and the market itself dates Markets is seeking to improve the mar- thing… it is simply Icons are an integral part of the Or- for creative expression within the which is performed by one person cost about five euros at the door. kets, which is in charge of building and ropean standards. Market stands along back to 1926. ket's touristic appeal, as well as better alive. There is noth- thodox Christian faith. They are por- conventions of icon painting. alone on a dry and wooden surface. "I View the full programme at: Julia Dubikajtis, www.danubeogradu.rs maintaining market facilities in Bel- Njegoševa street will also be renovated. As it is one of Belgrade´s most popu- meet the needs of local shoppers. ing to add. Maybe it traits of saints, angels, Mary or Christ "These icons have real faces, it of- love my own space – my own peace," could be different, painted on wooden boards of vari- ten happens that the face of the saint a student she explains. "Sbut she expressed herself – it is her ous sizes. Every Christian Orthodox is left resembling a mask," Mitrović Alongside their studies, it seems Christ," Todor Mitrović, professor of family will have a house saint, and it explains. "It's a question of which con- students at the academy won't have Iconography, says of one of his stu- is therefore common to see icons in vention can be changed, [and] which any problems finding work. dent's work at the Serbian Orthodox Serbian homes. ones should not." Both Janković and Pjanić will ORDER DELIVERY TO Church's Academy of Arts and Con- They are also essential to Orthodox "Passions give energy," the painter, join the successful fresco painter, Find your copy of YOUR DOOR servation. churches and monasteries, each cel- Julia Dubikajtis, jumps in. "Some- is free to employ his artistic expres- Slavoljub Radojković, in decorating +381 11 4030 303 Painted on a wooden board, true to ebrating a particular saint. Believers times, when making an icon, it is like sion. In case of the latter, freedom is work at a new church in a small vil- [email protected] the canons [rules] of iconography, Jo- worship God through these icons. you transfer your life force - it feels allowed as long as the biblical verse lage close to Lazarevac, an hour's Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight vana Janković, a fourth year student At the academy, students not only like magic." referred to is related to the saint de- drive from Belgrade. in the department for fresco painting learn the art itself and therefore Born in Poland and raised in Ger- picted. Radojković has already started on and iconography hears the evalua- preserve the tradition, they are also many, Dubikajtis came to Serbia in A fresco is painted directly on the the work and the students will join tion of her icon of Jesus. called upon when churches and 2015 to study the art of iconography. wall on a wet surface. The scale of the him in July as the whole church is to MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL Religious art has become increas- monasteries need to restore their "I always wanted to be a painter, space it occupies, together with work- be decorated. The work is scheduled Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BELGRADE Address: YUBC Bulevar Mihajla ingly popular across the region as icons, with students either making since I was little. But it took years to ing time limitations due to the wet to last at least two years. Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Temišvarska 19 Pupina 10v the Orthodox Church continues to contemporary replicas or restoring gather the courage," she says. HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Mihajla Pupina 85A reassert its influence following the the originals on site. Baptised as a catholic, Julia ex- Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA collapse of communism. The Ser- Mitrović explains that iconography plains how she came to love icons af- MIXER HOUSE SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 32 bian Orthodox Church's Academy of is an art of rules. The icon is expected ter visiting monasteries in Germany: Address: Karađorđeva 46 HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF Address: Smetanina 12 Arts and Conservation - established to have a clean surface, with no hard "My love for painting and the church Address: Studentski trg 9 Restaurant Mali vrabac TOURIST ORGANISATION OF in 1993 - was Serbia's first private arts brushstrokes. Pure mineral colours, came together in the icon." Address: Skadarska 34 RADISSON BLU OLD school. egg or wax, are used, which serve as In a big and bright studio on the CAFE SNEŽANA SERBIA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE Located in Kralja Petra street, just the glue, depending on whether cre- first floor of the academy, Igor Pjanić, Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT Address: Čika Ljubina 8 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 next to the Orthodox Cathedral in ating a fresco or an icon. another fourth year student special- Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade Belgrade, students at the academy "One must take into account the ising in fresco painting, is working on KOLARAC NATIONAL FOUNDATION FOR DANCE get to immerse themselves in the art role of the icon. The primary role of an icon of King Solomon of Israel. Address: Studentski trg 5 BISTRO BAR FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarčeva 7 Skadarska 32 of icon and fresco painting, mosaic the icon is truthfulness, not its artistic He explains some of the various Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 Address: Kolarčeva 3 Address: Aerodrom pult +381 62 350 002 and sculpture. value," Mitrović emphasises. choices an icon painter has when [email protected] HOTEL EXCELSIOR As an indication of how popular a "The icon can be understood as a creating replicas. Address: Kneza Miloša 5 SKVER 44 RESTAURANT BIZU FLY FLY TRAVEL CREATING YOUR MEMORIES Address: Požeška 44a Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 Address: Knez Mihailova 4 niche craft such as icon painting has communication channel," Aleksan- In terms of jewellery, blessings, become today, 32 students – including dra Kučeković, professor of early outfits and biblical verses, the author 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 7 SERBIA BUSINESS

COMMENT Escaping Tito's long shadow were imprisoned occasionally for only Life under Tito hints of affiliation with the royalists or Stalin. The system that Tito built had few checks and balances or space for may have been dialogue and was easily weaponised by people like Slobodan Milošević, a a golden age for former Yugoslav Communist Party ap- paratchik, to fuel chauvinism and bru- many Yugoslavs, tally deal with dissent. Unfortunately, the toxic parts of but a return Tito's legacy proved more resilient than the socialist gilding. Control of the to Titoism is media with an iron fist, labelling politi- cal opponents as traitors and a lack of neither desirable substantial political debate has been passed to his successors on all sides. nor possible. The view that politics is about im- posing certain values, be it liberal or conservative, onto the unenlightened populace is still a common theme in our political discourse, from Vučić's Serbia ‘needs more cattle' goal of imposing a "protestant work ethic" onto Serbs to the opposition's view that simply copy-pasting Eu- ropean practices will make Serbia a for China meat exports functioning democracy. It is paradoxi- cal that many Serbian liberals are also fond of this approach. Nenad Prokić, a China is interested in importing 500,000 tonnes of beef a year. Photo: EPA/Jerome Favre former member of the pro-European Liberal Democratic Party, once infa- products. Import levels are low too, mostly er of beef and meat products in the long consistent agricultural policy, which has mously quipped: "Serbia will become China has opened its market to Serbian due to high tariffs on beef from the EU. term. hardly been the case in Serbia. a modern state, with Serbs or without meat, but industry experts say the Serbia doesn't have a good track record Vukoje Muhadinović, general manager "Since 2001, we have had 14 or 15 minis- them". in using opportunities to export its beef of Meat Industry Topola, one of Serbia's ters of agriculture and the same number of Another problem with desiring a country hasn't enough cattle for such products. leading producers, said that increasing the policies for agriculture," Prostran said. Titoist future is that many of Tito's ad- Since 2001, Serbia has had an number of livestock is the first requirement. Serbia already provides some subsidies mirable feats are simply impossible in major exports and producers need 8,700-tonne quota to export baby beef to "We are limited in terms of capacity but for livestock breeding, but Prostran argues Srđan GARČEVIĆ the current environment. The end of EU. Actual exports, however, amount to this could change if the prices are favour- that it will take a long time to reach the the Cold War meant that there were more support to meet demand. only 20 per cent of the total quota. able and this could lead to expanding ca- desired level of production, especially for his May 7th will mark 125 no longer two great powers to balance According to SEEDEV's analysis, the coun- pacities and livestock, both for beef and for exports. He says additional measures to years since the birth of Jo- between, which proved to be the un- Stevan VELJOVIĆ "This industry has been in crisis for years try's key competitive advantages in terms of lamb," he said. provide financial support are needed. sip Broz in Kumrovec, Cro- doing of Yugoslavia. The structure and and the small number of livestock limits beef production are the availability of pas- "It would require support from the state The Ministry of Agriculture told BIRN that atia, to a Croat farmer fa- logic of globalised capitalism does not ollowing a series of highway the potential breakthrough in exporting tures in central Serbia and access to com- and the banks to rebuild farms, build new the agreements with China are the basis for ther and a Slovene mother. currently allow a country like Tito's Yu- and railway projects and the meat and meat products, especially in the petitively priced cattle feed from Vojvodina, ones, and to increase the number of live- the development of the sector over the next TThe path that took Josip Broz to becom- goslavia to pursue large investments in acquisition of Serbia's steel case of beef and lamb," he said. but the consultancy says this advantage is stock." 10 to 15 years as they remove administrative ing Tito is riveting, whatever one thinks industrialisation, let alone keep unprof- company, China is now inter- not used to its full effect because the produc- He believes producers would easily barriers and allow investors first to invest of his achievements and ideology. itable companies and expansive social ested in the agriculture sector. POOR CAPACITY tion process is overly long, partly due to out- solve logistical issues provided the prob- in farms and meat processing facilities, and Young Josip started off unpromising- security systems afloat. Technological FAfter a meeting between Serbian Presi- dated technology and equipment. lem of livestock is solved and there is a pos- then to export the meat to China. ly as a locksmith in an imperial back- advances made many of the jobs Yu- dent Tomislav Nikolić and the head of the Current annual meat production in Beef production is in any case charac- sibility of long-term contracts that would They explained there are two ways for water, after finishing only four years goslavia provided obsolete. Scars from Chinese General Administration of Quality Serbia is at around 450,000 tonnes, while terised by longer production cycles, which support export plans. increasing the amount of livestock, one be- of school. However, it was the tumult the civil wars of the 1990s and the per- Control on April 24th, it was announced that the average consumption of meat has de- is why it is hard to enter or exit the market. Prostran underlined that even in the so- ing incentives for raising new herds, build- of the early 20th Century that saw him sistently toxic and chauvinist political China is interested in importing 500,000 creased from 65 kilograms to 43 kilograms The number of livestock needed requires cialist era, during which beef production ing farms and processing facilities. rise through the ranks, first as a fenc- discourse in all countries since, make tonnes of beef a year, and Serbia is ready per individual over the last decade. years of planned investment because it was much higher, the former Yugoslavia "The other way is investment, through ing champion of the Austro-Hungarian any idea of regional rapprochement to fulfil all the conditions required to meet Serbia's level of production is similar to can take almost three years to breed and could still not have met Chinese demand. Serbian-Chinese joint ventures or invest- army, next as a Bolshevik revolution- impossible. Chinese standards. the Czech Republic. It is between two and get calves to market. "The former Yugoslavia mostly export- ment of Chinese companies. With fresh ary in Russia and finally as the leader of On the flip side and most promisingly, On the same day, a memorandum of un- three times greater than Bulgaria or Croa- The trade arrangements could attract ed to Europe and the USA, but we lost these capital, which investors can certainly pro- victorious Partisans in the very bloody the protests against media control and derstanding on safety guarantees for food tia, but significantly behind EU member potential interest from foreign investors, markets in the period of [Milosevic-era] vide, it would be possible to increase the World War II in Yugoslavia. corrupt political elites that occasion- and products intended for import and ex- states such as Hungary, Romania and Po- but experts warn that Serbia should not sanctions," Prostran recalled. [numbers of] livestock rapidly. Of course, His extraordinary ability to navigate Tito-nostalgia is present on almost all sides of the political spectrum in Serbia. Photo: Wikipedia/Jože Gal ally flare up across the region show that port was signed by Serbia's Ministry of Ag- land. take any shortcuts – such as the emergen- He believes it would be more realistic for it takes time, especially for cattle, while the through turbulence and emerge on Tito, all is forgiven". Tito and Yugoslav nist leaders in Africa and Asia. A friend an increasing number of ex-Yugoslavs riculture and its Chinese counterpart. In the domestic market, beef accounts cy export of calves – that would change the Serbia to try to gain a better position in the situation it is somewhat easier with pigs top helped him remould Yugoslavia aesthetics have become a staple of hip- of mine often mentions how his father, The obverse have learned not to give blind trust to Branislav Nedimović, the agriculture min- for around one fifth of the market share, country's status to that of a global exporter. Russian market. and sheep," the ministry said. after the horrors of inter-ethnic strife ster décor across the region. the son of rural day-labourers, man- big leaders. ister, said he expected Serbia to begin ex- almost three times less than pork. Many say Serbia should, before target- "It would take several decades to reach Prostran believes that the initiative to in- and genocide, and later to maintain a Tito-nostalgia is present on almost aged to rise to become an ambassador of Tito's My generation, who have only seen porting beef and lamb to China within a few Goran Živkov, program director of ing distant markets, deal with shortcom- the level of production necessary for such crease exports to China shows that the gov- precarious balancing act between the all sides of the political spectrum in just though merit in Yugoslavia's free the dusk of Yugoslavia and the flare of months, while pork exports will likely start SEEDEV, a consultancy specialising in ag- ings in its current agriculturepolicy. distant markets and it would require strong ernment is thinking in the right direction, West and the Warsaw Pact, which en- Serbia. The current government rou- education system. My father still likes golden age its implosion, have to live with the fact after analysis of a questionnaire submitted ricultural and rural development in Serbia, For example, a decrease in domestic state support and large subsidies," he said. but he has doubts about the practicalities. sured considerable, if not sustainable, tinely compares its achievements and to brag to his foreign friends how work- that we will not experience the benefits to the Chinese government is complete. the Western Balkans and the Caucasus, production of beef and lamb was recorded "But, if our goal is to export meat to Chi- "The intention seems to be good, but we prosperity for Yugoslavs. popularity to Tito's, while even the pro- ers in Yugoslavia not only had jobs for included of the Titoist age that our parents en- The agreement relies on previous deals and a former minister of agriculture, also in 2016. na, we should change the approach and mustn't forget that large quantities for con- During his 35-year reign over Yugo- gressive opposition often sees Tito's era life, but also company-bought flats and joyed. The quicker we shed the illusion aimed at expanding trade ties between the welcomed the signing of the agreement In addition, there is a constant decline in create more specific measures". tinuous export require many years and slavia, he was celebrated by his people as something to look up to in terms of cheap holidays on the most beautiful that the future of Serbia and the region two countries in the field of agriculture. which would allow Serbian companies to the domestic consumption of meat. Cou- Experts also argue that such ambitious significant investment in the production of through kitschy excesses of baton-pass- social and foreign policy. The persistent stretches of the Adriatic coast. strong will be a Titoist heaven of jobs for life In November 2015, a protocol on health export in China. pled with rising imports of meat products, plans would also require a long-term and beef, pork and lamb," he concluded. ing ceremonies and choreographed lack of vision and ability displayed by However, as an acerbic foreign friend and cheap holidays in Hvar, the sooner requirements for exports of frozen beef However, he also argued that farmers which have increased 30-fold over the last performances organised for his official political leaders across the region for of my father's once quipped: "If it was censorship, will we be able to formulate cogent al- from Serbia to China was also signed. and producers lack capacity and cannot 15 years, the position of domestic produc- birthday on Youth Day (May 25th). When the past three decades, makes many all so good, how come you ended up ternatives to our current state. However, while experts welcomed the yet offer competitive prices. ers has been considerably weakened. ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ he passed away, on 4th May 1980, Yugo- wish for the future to resemble our Tito- here?" Unfortunately, it is difficult to where even Although this sounds dispiriting, we benefits the latest agreement might bring, "It is legitimate that China is interested Some also question the effectiveness ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” slavs mourned him en masse. The tears ist past. separate Tito's admirable achieve- should take a leaf out of Tito's book and they also warned Serbia does not yet have in importing 500,000 tonnes but right now of subsidies, both in terms of available re- RESTAURANT KOVAČ that were shed were probably less for This is understandable as it is easy to ments from the shameful way Yugosla- Tarzan make sure we make the most out of the the number of livestock necessary to meet in Serbia beef consumption is only 80,000 sources (several times lower than the EU modern ethno restaurant Josip Broz and more for Tito, the demi- see Tito's time as a golden age because via ended, as well as the darker founda- situation we are in. Indeed, 125 years Chinese demand. tonnes - with very little exports in nearby average) and its targeting, when the num- god who brought prosperity to our tragi- in many ways they were the best times tions of his time in power. comics were ago, probably no one in Kumrovec "It is good that we are signing agree- CEFTA (Central European Free Trade ber of livestock is decreasing two to three cally fraught region. this region has ever had. A walk through The obverse of Tito's golden age in- dreamt that a humble farmer's son ments as a precondition for export, but we Agreement) countries", he noted. per cent every year. In many ways that mourning for Tito the Museum of Yugoslav History re- cluded strong censorship, where even burned as a would become one of the most iconic are far from being able to provide the quan- The domestic beef market is stable in lasts to this day and even affects those, veals Tito's impressive international Tarzan comics were burned as a dan- leaders this region has ever seen. tities China requires," said Milan Prostran, terms of production and prices, while LONG-TERM who like me, were only born in the clout which led him to found the Non- ger to the system. The system was an in- an agro-economics analyst at the Serbian trade is very low, both in terms of exports SUPPORT NEEDED final years of Yugoslavia. Throngs of Aligned Movement, with Jawaharlal creasingly sclerotic clientelism, where danger Foreign Policy Circle NGO. and imports. ex-Yugoslavs, disenchanted with their Nehru and Gamal Abdel Nasser, and to accountability was second to political Srđan Garčević is a writer and a Prostran noted that since 1975, the num- Serbia exports beef to nearby markets, This long list of problems demonstrates current leaders, flock to Tito's tomb, of- be decorated and respected by Euro- affiliation. Most tragically, there were to the system. founder of The Nutshell Times blog. ber of livestock has decreased from 2.5 mil- such as Bosnia or Macedonia, while the why it will take much more than certifi- Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com ten wearing T-shirts saying "Come back pean royal families, as well as commu- thousands of political prisoners who lion to just over 800,000 today. EU market is only partially open to Serbian cates if Serbia plans to become an export- 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 9 REGION FACES Bulgarian Shafiq Rafat: Engineer, nationalists march refugee and artist of his exhibition, Rafat took the bus back Meet the Afghan to the refugee camp where he lives. Ac- into new cording to UNHCR, Krnjača Asylum refugee civil Centre – formerly used to house refu- gees and internally displaced persons engineer who following the Balkan wars of the 1990s - government currently shelters about 1,250 refugees discovered his including 400 children. Encouraged by the foundation, Rafat artistic talent after drew around a dozen pictures, each Bulgaria’s far-right the European People’s Party, GERB’s key representing a specific story or emo- alley in the EU. fleeing to Serbia. tion. As he grew up in a country rav- parties, grouped But Borissov’s decision to rely on aged by war, his works represent suffer- them is far from spontaneous. ing and loss and are pleas for peace, as together under During his first mandate as prime min- Mathilde DE KERCHOVE well as containing messages of hope. ister, between 2009 and 2013, Borissov Through his work, Rafat tries to raise the United Patriots relied on ATAKA’s support in order to hafiq Rafat's paintings for his awareness about what is happening in implement his policies, while his second Images for Peace exhibition Afghanistan and across the world. The banner, became government, which governed between were supposed to be shown for painter represents mostly women to 2014 and 2016, was officially backed by Sone night only at Klub Petak in show how bad their situation is in his a part of the new the ‘Patriotic Front’ – a former coalition the Savamala district of Belgrade. As it former country and to explain they between VMRO and the NFSB. happened, the event was such a suc- have absolutely no rights. government in an While Borissov relied on the nation- cess the exhibition organisers kept Ra- "When you live in a war country, alist parties' support before, he always fat's artwork on display for a week. there is no space for art. When I was a unprecedented made sure to keep them far from the ac- In Afghanistan, his home country, he child, I drew everywhere I could. Every tual business of government - until now, was a civil engineer. Like thousands of time I was seeing a wall, I drew on it development that is. his compatriots, Rafat, 28, says he was with the chalks I stole earlier from my The nationalists have four out of the forced to flee war and violence and so teacher," he recalls. on the country’s 18 ministers and two of the four deputy became a refugee. After a treacherous Since he arrived in Serbia, Rafat says increasingly prime ministers in the new government three-month journey to Europe, he he feels like he can develop to finally be- team, which was officially appointed by The leaders of the United Patriots coalition Krasimir Karakachanov, Volen Siderov and Valeri Simeonov (From left to right). Photo: Facebook/United Patriots made it to Serbia with his family in Au- come the artist he always wanted to be. parliament on Thursday – an indisput- gust last year where his artistic talents He knows that he's going to be better and turbulent political able success for these once-marginal ia,” Yulian Angelov, the organisational that could put them in uncomfortable In 2012 Bulgaria’s anti-discrimination were soon discovered. better with time, and has several plans scene. parties. secretary of VMRO and co-secretary of situations. commission reported Siderov to the On April 13th at 7pm, Rafat was wait- to invest in himself by selling his draw- the United Patriots coalition, told BIRN. His opinion is largely shared by ana- prosecution, accusing him of inciting ing for the first visitors to the exhibition. ings and organising more exhibitions. FROM THE MARGINS He added that these solutions in- lysts in Bulgaria, who consider the na- hatred against Jews in two books he pub- Supported by the Refugees Founda- Since the moment he managed to TO THE CENTRE cluded Bulgarian nationalists’ stance tionalist coalition ‘softer’ than many of its lished in 2010, which were qualified as tion Serbia NGO, who discovered his sell a drawing when he was fifteen, Mariya CHERESHEVA against Turkey’s membership of the EU, European counterparts. anti-Semitic propaganda. talent during a workshop, the painter back in Afghanistan, his biggest dream “The Patriots happened to be at the the need for construction of border “fa- “Their motivation and ideological pur- In its annual report for last year, which was nervously preparing for his work Since he arrived in Serbia, Rafat says he feels like he can develop to finally become the artist he always wanted to be. Photo: Flickr/Aldo van Zeeland was to be an artist. The painter hoped oyko Borissov, the leader of right place, in the right time,” Sofia-based cilities” to stop migration, and the fight pose is related to power, not to a revolu- was published in April, Bulgaria’s largest to be publicly judged for the first time. the war in his home country would Bulgaria’s ruling party, the political analyst Georgi Kiriakov told against “gypsy” crime. tion. They are patriots of the status quo,” human rights group, the Bulgarian Hel- According to Edin Sinanović, one of the others come straight from his imagina- While many of those who stay in Ser- do something instead of just waiting. In eventually end. However, the situation centre-right Citizens for Eu- BIRN, suggesting that they have success- According to Angelov, such policies Georgi Kiriakov commented. sinki Committee, assessed the rise of the founders of the NGO, the exhibition was tion. He uses mainly oil on canvas and bia, mostly men, live in informal camps Serbia, there are 8,000 refugees, every did not change and Rafat says the Tali- ropean Development of Bul- fully ridden the wave of nationalism in can be seen throughout Europe nowa- The Patriots’ past, however, shows nationalist parties as one of the greatest a huge success. most of his artworks are portraits of or abandoned sites such as the one day they are coming here…But it is the ban began to threaten him because he garia (GERB), announced his Europe. days, which is a proof that the Bulgarian that they are not only capable of radical threats to human rights in the country. "The first day of the exhibition was re- women in Afghanistan. next to the bus station in Belgrade, oth- first time a refugee is holding an exhibi- worked for an American company. Bpolitically-unprecedented new admin- Their growing influence comes on the nationalists “were on the right track”. speech, but also of taking action. ally busy. There were a lot of our friends "Since the moment I reached Serbia, ers are registered and live in state refu- tion here," Rafat says. After this, the engineer-turned-artist istration on Wednesday, over a month heels of the ongoing refugee crisis and On the other hand, he added that the In the days before to the parliamen- SHIFT TO THE coming to see and praise his work. As I'm breathing again and I'm enjoying gee camps outside the capital. A few months after he arrived, Rafat decided to flee with his family, leav- after winning a snap parliamentary vote. the terror attacks around Europe, which unity of all the ‘patriotic’ parties in one tary vote, leaders and supporters of the RIGHT IN EUROPE the exhibition lasted for seven days, life more. I feel safer and I can draw. Rafat, his wife and their three-year- came into contact with the Refugees ing everything behind but his dreams It is unusual not only because this is have radically increased anti-migrant coalition has shown Bulgarians that they United Patriots blocked Bulgaria’s bor- we did not expect many people would After the war in my country and the old son are registered at Krnjača camp, Foundation Serbia. Workers discov- about art. the first time that a prime minister has and anti-Muslim rhetoric. “have the power to solve their problems”. der checkpoints with Turkey, aiming to BIRN approached the European Peo- show up in the following days. But we dangerous travel to get here, it has been about 10 kilometres from Belgrade, on ered his gift for drawing and helped "Serbia is a good country but here, held a third mandate since Bulgaria’s In addition, Tur- k e y ’ s stop busloads of Bulgar- ple’s Party for its view on the structure were wrong. A lot of people we never a long time since I felt like that," says the other side of the river Danube. They him to improve by providing him with finding jobs or something is difficult. I first democratic elections in 1991, but assertive foreign ian Turks arriving from of the Bulgarian government - a coali- met or saw before came to see what it Rafat. reached Serbia in August 2016. equipment and a space to work. They think I would feel even safer and more because it includes a group of national- policy, includ- Turkey to vote in the elec- tion that was deemed “impossible” by was all about." The UN refugee agency estimates Since his arrival, the former engineer also organised the exhibition. stable in countries such as Germany or ist parties - something that was unthink- ing its blatant Policies that were tions. the EPP’s leader three years ago - but re- When you enter the room, you im- around 100 refugees make it to Serbia developed his passion for art, an inter- "This exhibition exceeded my expec- Sweden," he says. able only a few years ago. attempts to During the blockades, ceived no answer by the time of publica- mediately understand the meaning each day, far fewer than the 4,000 to est that he never had the opportunity tations. People I didn't know came here While Rafat's full exhibition is now "If we had not reached an agreement influence the qualified as far-right which went on for days, tion. of the exhibition's name. Some of the 5,000 arriving daily during the height to give time to in his home country. to see my work, they encouraged me closed two paintings are still on display with the ‘Patriots’, we would have gone result of the NFSB leader Valeri Sime- According to Georgi Kiriakov, Europe’s paintings are inspired by real photo- of the crisis in the summer of 2015. Most "I'm a hard worker. I'm not the kind and they liked my drawings," he says. at the same exhibition centre. His work to new elections in few months’ time,” election on and fascist ten years onov caused a stir by vio- answer to the recent developments in graphs, such as the famous Afghan girl head straight for the Hungarian border, in of man who just sits and does nothing. Somewhat paradoxically, after hav- can also be viewed on his Facebook Borissov said at a press briefing on April March 26th lently pushing and pulling Bulgaria is that “it is better to put the na- with green eyes by Steve McCurry, and hopes of crossing into Western Europe. So, when I arrived in Serbia, I decided to ing celebrated the successful opening page: Art Shafiq. 13th, when GERB and the United Patriots in favour of ago... are not [seen that an elderly lady of Turkish tionalist parties in government than to bloc announced the programme for DOST, a recently-formed ethnic Turk- origin, forcing her back to keep them as anti-system”. their future government. ish-dominated party that some call the way] any more today.” Turkey, an incident which He suggested that attempts by Ger- “We have always been led by the prin- Turkish president’s ‘Trojan horse’ in Bul- was broadcast on Bul- man Chancellor Angela Merkel and ciple ‘Bulgaria above all’, GERB’s leader garia, boosted fears that country could garia’s main television sta- French presidential election frontrun- added, borrowing the nationalists’ fa- turn into a Turkish satellite. tions. ners to curb illegal immigration were vorite slogan. The Patriots used that situation to Georgi Harizanov, the A few years earlier, in an example of European mainstream After Bulgaria’s previous government push through their agenda during 2014, during a plenary parties turning to nationalist rhetoric in resigned in November over its painful GERB’s last mandate. Institute for Right-Wing speech in the National As- order to respond to their more radical defeat at a presidential election by So- As a result of their influence, parlia- sembly, Simeonov called opponents. cialist-backed candidate Rumen Radev, ment adopted controversial changes to Policies the Bulgarian Roma “fero- Georgi Harizanov believes that the Pa- Borissov’s party managed to win the the electoral code, significantly limiting cious apes” and said that triots’ evolution into the political main- elections again with 33.5 per cent of the the voting rights of Bulgarians living Roma women had “the stream is a direct result of the overall shift votes. abroad, and especially in Turkey. instincts of stray bitches”, of the European political axis to the right. This brought it 95 seats in Bulgaria’s Parliament also voted to establish sparking outrage among “The Eurosceptic rhetoric of politi- 240-seat National Assembly, forcing a total ban on wearing face covering, human rights groups. cians like [Hungarian Prime Minister] GERB to look for coalition partners. which was seen as a clear sign of a grow- DO MODERATE Volen Siderov’s ATAKA, however, has Viktor Orban has turned into Euro-real- Since its partner in the last cabinet, ing Islamophobia by many in Bulgaria’s NATIONALISTS EXIST? an even more controversial past. ism,” Harizanov said. the centre-right Reformist Bloc, fell apart large Muslim community. In 2015, the European Court for Hu- “Policies that were qualified as far-right and failed to get into parliament, GERB Policies and attitudes towards mi- “Over the past two and a half years, the man Rights in Strasbourg ruled against and fascist ten years ago... are not [seen had to turn its eyes to the United Patri- grants and refugees radicalised signifi- Patriots, to my own surprise, have dem- Bulgaria for failing to take action against that way] any more today,” he added. ots, a coalition of three far-right parties: cantly, with the construction of a barbed- onstrated consistency and constructive- the party after its supporters attacked For Yulian Angelov from the United VMRO, led by Krassimir Karakachanov, wire fence along Bulgaria’s border with ness,” Georgi Harizanov of the Institute Muslims during Friday prayers outside Patriots, Europe’s approval does not mat- National Front for Salvation of Bulgaria, Turkey and regular anti-migrant pro- for Right-Wing Policies, a conservative Sofia’s Banya Bashi mosque. ter much. or NSFB, of Valeri Simeonov, and ATAKA, tests. think-tank close to GERB, told BIRN. A group of over 150 thugs, led by Si- “We have never sought the approval of led by Volen Siderov. “Our success is due to the fact that He explained that the Patriots use derov, insulted and threatened the wor- EU bureaucrats. This is the government In 2014, the Patriots, who now have 27 the patriotic parties offered real solu- harsh and controversial messages in or- shippers, threw eggs and stones at them of the Republic of Bulgaria, and the citi- MPs, were called an “impossible partner” tions for Bulgaria. Solutions that used to der to attract voters but at the same time and spat on their carpets, some of which zens decide who is going to govern,” he for GERB by Joseph Daul, the leader of sound weird for both Europe and Bulgar- refrain from concrete political actions were later set on fire. declared. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 11 OUT AND ABOUT HEALTH AND FAMILY

vidual teaching is also an option. The courses during the day will be donated to Belgrade's are organised by the creative team from the Zvončica Association, the Childhood Cancer children's playground Kod Zidića in the Vračar Parent Organization. Discover Serbia by boat neighbourhood. They say the course will help For more information and queries, contact the May youngsters learn how to choose the best col- organisers via email rotaract.bgcentar@gmail. our combinations for their rooms and how to com or [email protected]. You can BOAT TRIP properly arrange furniture on their own, among also call +381 60 03 12 990. With spring TO PANČEVO other things. For more information on timetables, call +381 BREASTFEEDING FESTIVAL blossoming and The constantly busy Pančevo Bridge treats for 69 57 37 477. over the Danube is definitely not the This event is not really for children but rather the weather mild, only route from Belgrade to the city of HEALTHY for mums and dads-to-be who are eager to learn Pančevo. There is also a boat trip. First FOOD FESTIVAL more about the benefits of breastfeeding for it's the perfect you sail past Belgrade's Kalemegdan new-borns. Fortress, then there is a short visit to Belgrade The Od Prvog Obroka (From the First Meal) The event will be the very first Breastfeeding time to explore the Bela Stena bathing area, a weekend festival is back for a second edition on Saturday, Festival in Serbia and it will take place at Bel- settlement located 12 kilometres from May 6th. The festival presents health food and grade's Šumice Sports Centre at 125 Ustanička Belgrade and downtown Belgrade. The tour ends in proper nutrition for children but also offers a street on May 19th at noon sharp. Pančevo as you sail past small light- range of programmes, including entertainment There will be lectures about breastfeeding beyond by river. houses – known as Pančevačke Kule kids for youngsters, corrective gymnastics and arts and its influence on children's intelligence. (Pančevo's Towers) – that date back to workshops, plus sessions for children and par- As there is room for only a limited number of the early 19th Century. Their purpose ents on healthy meals for young ones. There participants, you need to register for the event in Ivana NIKOLIĆ was to provide light for boats sailing Spring is one of the most beautiful months in will also be lectures about nutrition for children advance by sending an email to info@decjisajt. through Pančevo. Even though they no aged six months to seven years. rs. ven though river tourism is longer work, these lighthouses are defi- the Serbian capital with plenty for you and your The festival takes place at Dorćol Platz on not that developed in Serbia, nitely interesting to see. Dobračina 59b Street. COMIC BOOK FESTIVAL there are still quite a few river The tour lasts five hours, costs 2,100 children to do. trips you can take, allowing dinars [around €17] and operates on BAKE DAY 2017 This is another must-visit event if you and you to see the country from a Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays. your children are comic book enthusiasts. The Edifferent perspective. During the summer months, you can The fourth annual charity Bake Day takes first Belgrade Comic Book Festival – TRAS! – will If you have already spent some time also enjoy water ski and a long break place on Saturday, May 13th at Azbuka café at 2 be held from May 12th to May 14th at the Vlada Di- travelling around Serbia, you prob- at Bela Stena for some swimming and Kralja Milana street at 4pm. vljan Culture Centre, 8 Mitropolita Petra street. ably did so by bus or car. While there sun-bathing. "For those who haven't had the chance to par- There will be a few prominent names from are fewer options for touring by boat, There is also a night tour you can ticipate, the goal is to spend Saturday afternoon the comic book world, including several Italian you should still give it a try. Use the nice enjoy for 1,900 dinars [approximately together with coffee and cookies that will be pre- authors: Alfredo Castelli of Martin Mystery fame, spring weather - while it is not too hot - to € 15]. This takes place on Tuesdays and pared by Rotaract [the event organisers] house- Mauro Laurenti, who is most famous for his work find a tour and enjoy some leisure time Thursdays at 7pm. wives and a band that will play great music," the on the famed Zagor comic book, and Walter Ven- on the water. organisers said. turi, also known for his contribution to Zagor as Most river tours usually last from one SAVA AND During the afternoon event, you can buy well as many other comic books. to three days and are not solely river-ori- DANUBE CRUISE tickets that will allow you to eat an unlimited As for domestic and regional authors, there ented – they stop at cities and important number of cookies and cakes. Keep in mind, if will be Štef Bartolić, Miroljub Milutinović Brada, monuments. Are you thinking of getting married you bring your own cakes and cookies to Az- Jovan Ukropina and Siniša Radović. Ticket prices range from a few euros to on a boat? Or throwing a party on a sail- buka, then the entrance is completely free of Visitors will have a chance to see various ex- a couple of hundred euros, depending on ing boat at night? If so, don't worry. You charge. hibitions, talk to guests and authors, enjoy film the destination and tour duration. Each can now do so in Belgrade on two-level Apart from fun and food, the Bake Day also projections and participate in comic book ex- and every tour also has discounts for river ships with a bar and a restaurant. supports a good cause. All the money collected changes. children and all need to be booked a few Apart from renting them, you can also days in advance. Don't worry if you don't enjoy a 90-minute trip across the Sava speak Serbian – all guides speak English and Danube rivers in Belgrade for 850 as well. dinars (around seven euros). Belgrade Insight has prepared a list During the journey, you will see of tours you might enjoy in the coming Branko's Bridge, Nebojša's Tower, days. Most of the tours are organised via Novak Đoković's tennis courts, the the following websites: www.serbianad- Sava-Danube confluence, Pančevo's ventures.com and www.robinson.rs, Bridge, Big War Island, Little Horse Is- where you will also find more informa- land, the Museum of Contemporary tion on tour programmes and schedules. Art, the Belgrade Port, the Serbian Orthodox Church building, Staro THREE-DAY DANUBE CRUISE Sajmište – the site of a World War II Nazi concentration camp, the urban This tour includes quite a few remark- The beautiful and newly-restored Golubac Fortress. Photo: Flickr/Erik Cleves Kristensen neighbourhood of Savamala, Old able places, including fortresses dating Sava Bridge, St Sava's Church, the Bel- back to the Middle Ages and archaeologi- During the first day of the trip you will sions to archaeological sites and nearby On the same day, you will also visit grade Fair as well as Belgrade's Ada, cal sites. It takes you down the Danube, also see Đerdap National Park and will wineries, or to visit monasteries. Lepenski Vir, a Mesolithic archaeological a river island converted into an artifi- from Belgrade to the town of Kladovo in arrive at the town of Donji Milanovac af- The third day is reserved for more sail- site dating back to the 10th Century BC, cial peninsula. eastern Serbia. The boat departs from ter almost eight hours of sailing. The trip ing - you will see several important mon- and Viminacium, a former military camp There are daytime and sunset tours the Kalemegdan Fortress and takes in includes a bus ride to the nearby town of uments from the boat, including Trajan's and capital of the Roman province Moe- and the price is the same. Both tours the Smederevo Fortress and the Ramska Kladovo and accommodation at the Aq- Plaque, the Roman memorial stone with sia Superior. operate every day at 4pm and 6pm, Fortress on its way to the beautiful and uastar Danube hotel. a carved Latin inscription dedicated to The cost is 20,130 dinars [approximate- so you can pick whichever suits you newly-restored Golubac Fortress. You can use the second day for excur- the Roman Emperor Trajan. ly € 164]. best.

The fourth annual charity Bake Day takes place on Saturday, May 13th. Photo: Flickr/Howard County Library System

Ivana NIKOLIĆ tional and entertainment programme, includ- Published by ing clowns and famed cartoon characters, 150 f you have spent some time in Belgrade, square metre large indoor playground, creative then you probably know how everything workshops as well as an art corner. flourishes and comes to life again in May. As with every year, there will be members of The parks are full of children playing, the Sports Association of Serbia, the Serbian SUBSCRIBE TO while adults enjoy cafes and restaurant Gendarmerie, the Traffic Police Department as A LEADING PROVIDER OF Igardens. The weather is just right – not too cold well as the Serbian Fire Service. They will spend NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM and not too warm - so you can easily spend time with the youngest participants, introducing CONTENT whole weekends out. them to their work. IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE Belgrade has lots to offer in the spring months. For more information and a detailed pro- for in-depth analysis, Here's a round-up of some of the fun stuff on of- gramme, visit www.decijisajam.rs/kids-fair-bel- investigative reports, fer for you and your young ones in the city. grade/. features, interviews, commentary and profiles KIDS FAIR INTERIOR on the latest business and political headlines. DESIGN COURSE The 19th annual Kids Fair takes place from May 5th to 7th at Hall 3 of the Belgrade Fair. Entrance is If your children are aged 10 to 15 and have free of charge, as is the case every year. shown some interest in home decoration, they

OTHER SERVICES: The festival is open to visitors on Friday from will most probably love this workshop. Com- 12 noon to 7pm, and on the weekend from 10am pletely free of charge, these interior design to 7pm. During the three-day fest, kids and par- courses take place throughout May, and chil- ents have the chance to enjoy both the educa- dren work in groups of no more than five. Indi- 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Belgrade OPERA, BALLET International AND CLASSICAL Architecture Week CLUBBING kicks off FRIDAY MAY 5th International Belgrade Choir This year's edition of BINA Fest, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, – the Belgrade International Studentski Trg 5, 8pm AND LIVE MUSIC Arts in brief Ballet: La Bayadere (Minkus), Architecture Week - actu- The National Theatre, Francuska 1, ally lasts almost the whole 7:30pm month. It closes on Thurs- Dolče Assemble, Guarnerius, Džordža Vašingtona 12, 8pm FRIDAY MAY 5th SATURDAY MAY 6th FRIDAY MAY 12th day, May 25th. As per usual, th visitors will be able to enjoy SATURDAY MAY 6 • Rødhåd - Dystopian & Kr!z • RBMA Night Belgrade w/ • Hang on until the party various exhibitions, listen to Opera: Tosca (Puccini), The - Token, Drugstore, Bulevar DJ LAG, Drugstore, Bulevar is over, Mr Stefan Braun, lectures and attend work- National Theatre, Francuska 1, shops. The theme for this 7:30pm Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm TRA T T O R I A Andrej Kavalinski, trumpet • Barutana Opening Night, • Saturday Night Fever, Mr • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava year's BINA is Idea Yards, and Kristina Bjelopavlović Barutana, Kalemegdan Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, river, 11pm PIZZER I A which means that exteriors Cesar, paino, City Hall, Dragoslava Fortress, 11pm 11pm • Blow Up Friday, Shake and are going to be in focus. Jovanovića 2, 8pm • Season Opening, Freestyler, • Beat pres. KiNK live, Shake, boat on Sava river, Find out more at the official SUNDAY MAY 7th boat on Sava river, 11pm Barutana, Kalemegdan 11pm website:www.bina.rs. Nebojsina 8 Concert of new Works for • Marko Milosavljević, Fortress, 11pm • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava 011/3863-999 piano and accordion – Katarina Mladost, Karađorđeva 44, • Fakir & Tombe, Mladost, river, 11pm Moscow-inspired Radovanović Jeremić, piano; [email protected] 11pm Karađorđeva 44, 11pm • Apgrade with Guy Gerber, art at Dom Miodrag Đorđević, accordion www.restoranamici.rs and Aleksandar Aleksandrović, • Dooshan and Bege Fank, • Cojke, Ludost, Karađorđeva Barutana, Kalemegdan Omladine Organisers accordion, Ilija M. Kolarac Ludost, Karađorđeva 44, 44, 11pm Fortress, 11pm Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am 11pm • Season Closing, Gadost, • Sam Paganini, Depo, The British-born, Moscow- promise ‘eye-opening' MONDAY MAY 8th • Season Closing, Gadost, Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Travnička 3, 10pm based artist Matthew Karađorđeva 44, 11pm • DJ Prema - RNB Night, • Atomsko sklonište, Dom Merrick says that the Opera: Bastien und Bastienne Night of Museums (Mozart), The National Theatre, • DJ Alex Tic, Industrija Bar, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva Omladine, Makedonska 22, inspiration for his latest Francuska 1, 8:30pm Karađorđeva 23, 11pm 23, 11pm 9pm body of artwork, which The Belgrade Public Aquarium and Tropicarium will be open for Night of Museums. Photo: Noć Muzeja RTS Symphonic Orchestra, Ilija M. • RNB Music by DJ • Opening Weekend, Shake • Vlada i Bajka – Tribute to KOLARAC he will present with his Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg , Witch Bar, and Shake, boat on Sava , Sava "The Russian curator of the museum break out of the zoo and about the spe- 5, 8pm Borchenzzy Simon & Garfunkel No/Net exhibition, came Back for the 14th Katarina Milutinović, violin and Pariska 13, 10pm river, 11pm Centre, Milentija Popovića 9, PROGRAMME from an encounter with of Bulgakov's home in which he was cial relationship that Sami had with the Svetlana Pantelić, piano, Belgrade • Couple UP, Bg - Ns LINK UP, • KPTM Drumming | Codex, 8pm security agents operating born and raised in Moscow is coming to zoo's late director Vuk Bojović. Cultural Centre, Knez Mihailova 6, year, this annual Belgrade for the event," Pavlović told the There's also going to be a presentation 8pm DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm Djashttown Queen, RMA in Moscow. His main point th Beta news agency. held, naturally, about all of the nocturnal • Hang on until the party Crew, Kastiljas MC, KPTM, SATURDAY MAY 13 of interest there was the TUESDAY MAY 9th cultural event According to the founder of the Bel- animals that live at the zoo. If your chil- is over, Mr Stefan Braun, Žorža Klemansoa 22, 11pm Russian language but also grade Night of Museums event, Ana dren are more interested in underwater RTS Folk Orchestra, Ilija M. Kolarac Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Season Opening, Freestyler, • Rabih Beaini / Morphine the country's bureaucracy, Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm TH Soloist: boasts exhibitions Petrović, there will be exhibitions at a creatures, the Belgrade Public Aquarium • Pure Cream, Club 94, boat boat on Sava river, 11pm Records, Drugstore, Bulevar FRIDAY, MAY 5 social norms and general Itamar Zorman, violin total of 65 locations in Belgrade this year, and Tropicarium will be open for Night WEDNESDAY MAY 10th on Sava river, 11pm • Somebody Call the Doctor, Despota Stefana 115, 11pm A. Webern: Passacaglia Concert hall, 8pm way of life - plus the artist's and activities for all adding that 12 of these locations are com- of Museums, showcasing exotic fish, • DJ Laki & DJ Rokam (Hip- Club 94, boat on Sava river, • It’s All About Music, International Belgrade Chior Fest A. Berg: Concerto for Violin and Orchestra The National own misinterpretation of pletely new to the event. reptiles, amphibians and more. Boating Opera: Othello (Verdi), Hop, RnB Night), KPTM, 11pm Drugstore Play boat on Sava Admission free J. Brahms: Symphony No. 4 Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm Production: BF these things. The exhibition ages and tastes. She also said there is going to be an ex- and boat-building students will also be in Milan Popović, harpsichord, Ilija M. Žorža Klemansoa 22, 11pm • Brigand + Moloa, river, 11pm th SUNDAY, MAY 7TH opens on Friday, May 5 at hibition this year that was shown at the attendance to teach children how to tie Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg • The Balkans Sons Night, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, • Somebody Call the Doctor, SATURDAY, MAY 13TH 7pm in Dom Omladine. Louvre in Paris last year. proper sailor's knots. 5, 6pm Petlja Bar, Bulevar Vojvode 9pm Club 94, boat on Sava river, Concert hall, 11am Concert hall, 8pm David GALIĆ "Korean artist HeeSun Lee created an For those children looking for a bit FRIDAY MAY 12th Mišića 11, 9pm • SKVER, Petlja Bar, Bulevar 11pm Kolarac Podium of Chamber Music Damir Imamović – Sevdah Programme: RE Dejan Marković's exhibition inspired by hanbok [dresses], more action, there is going to be an event • Sanja Garić, Auf Vojvode Mišića 11, 9pm • Special House, Freestyler, Production: Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, Tatjana Milošević: Five Ws for Piano Ticekt fees: 950 and 1100 dinars State of Nature ore than 40 cities which is a traditional Korean costume," at the Belgrade fortress dedicated to Wiedersehen, Flesh, Dom • Elemental, Dom Omladine, boat on Sava river, 11pm and Accordion Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, across Serbia will be Petrović said, adding that a recent col- teaching children how to use a bow and Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, Makedonska 22, 9pm • My Baby, Dom Omladine, Branka Popović: Hammers and Air SUNDAY, MAY 14TH for Piano and Accordion Serbian artist Dejan celebrating the Night lection by Chanel's head designer Karl arrow as well as other battle techniques Ballet: The Sleeping Beauty 9pm Makedonska 22, 9pm Dragana Jovanović: Romance. Concert hall, 11am of Museums event Lagerfeld was very much inspired by used by knights, followed by a relaxed (Tchaikovsky), The National th Marković is heavily influ- Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm • Depeche Mode tribute SUNDAY MAY 7 • POEM + Until Rain, Valsi Kolce Trans for Accordion and Kolarac Podium of Chamber Music on May 20th. It will be hanbok. painting session by the river. Piano Conductor: Jelena Šušinjić enced by Artificial Intel- Faculty of Music – Students of by Gift + Nirvana tribute, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, theM 14th year that Belgrade has opened Another exclusive exhibition not to be Tickets for the event cost four eu- Violin, Studentski Grad Cultural Miroslav Miša Savić: Twisted-Line Program: ligence, neural networks Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan 9pm Tango for Piano and Accordion Ivan Josip Skender, Shadows and fireworks many of its museums and galleries to missed is one dedicated to history's two ros, which includes one visit to every Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, and autonomous robots. 8pm 3, 8pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Damir Imamović, Ilija Ivan Brkljačić: Weather vane for Aleksandar Dzambasov, Skopje Rhapsody the public for the night, with this year's most famous psychoanalysts - Sigmund exhibition during the event. Children for Piano and Orchestra However, his work tran- • Belgrade Afterhours | M. Kolarac Endowment, Accordion and Piano event slogan being "Open Your Eyes in Freud and Carl Jung - and their revolu- under the age of five are admitted th Soloists: Dino Imeri, piano scends technological SATURDAY MAY 13 Soloist: th Mancha & Mark Panic, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Katarina Radovanović Jeremić, Svetomir Nastasijević, Traditional games the Night." tionary concepts that shaped the 20 free when accompanied by a parent. for symphony orchestra developments. In fact, the Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, KPTM, Žorža Klemansoa 22, • Ničim Izazvan, Božidarac, piano According to organisers, 152 cultural Century. In addition, to enable people to travel Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Miodrag Đorđević, accordion artist combines standard 4am Radoslava Grujića 3, 8pm TH institutions across the country will be One very cool aspect of this year's around the city more easily and see Studentski Trg 5, 8pm MONDAY, MAY 15 representations of nature , , Barutana, Aleksandar Aleksandrović, ac- open from 5pm to 1am and this year's Night of Museums event is that there as many exhibitions as possible, the Opera: Aida (Verdi), The National • Mongooz and the Magnet • Mortal Kombat cordion Concert hall, 9pm and wildlife with technol- Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, Kalemegdan Fortress, 8pm Production: Music Centre theme is Art and Cultural Revolutions is going to be a special programme for city has stated that each Night of Mu- Barcelona Gipsy Balkan Orchestra ogy, creating an exciting 9pm Admission free Great and Small. children this year with exclusive exhi- seums ticket can be used as a ticket for MONDAY MAY 15th Orchestra Members: examination of on how SUNDAY MAY 14th Sandra Sangiao, vocal Asked what some of the more exciting bitions and content that younger peo- all public transportation between 4pm MONDAY, MAY 10 TH MONDAY MAY 8th Dani Carbonell, clarinet nature is constructed in this exhibitions will be this year, chief coordi- ple can enjoy. and midnight. Barcelona Gypsy Balkan Music Gallery, 6pm Pere Nolasc Turu, violin day and age. The exhibition Orchestra, Ilija M. Kolarac • Desert Mountain Tribe, Virtuosi of the German Baroque Mattia Schirosa, accordion nator Marija Pavlović said there will be a The Cvijeta Zuzorić Pavilion will have For more information on the events Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 9pm • Celebrity Night, Mr Stefan Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, Programme Julien Chanal, guitar at the Museum of Con- brand new exhibition marking 50 years an exhibition of traditional, wooden being held in Belgrade and in many Opera: Aida (Verdi), The National Johann Sebastian Bach, Ivan Kovavević, contrabass temporary Art remains on since the publication of The Master and Serbian toys while the Belgrade zoo will other Serbian cities, visit the organisa- Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 9pm 4 Duette, BWV 802–805 Stelios Togias, percussion Ivan Ljuba, concert, Belgrade display until Monday, May Margarita, the famous novel by Russian have a special exhibition dedicated to tion's official website: www.nocmuzeja. Dietrich Buxtehude, Tickets fees: 800 and 1,000 dinars Cultural Centre, Knez Mihailova 6, th TUESDAY MAY 9th TUESDAY MAY 16th Aria „La Capricciosa" (Partite di- 29 . writer Mikhail Bulgakov. Sami the chimpanzee who once tried to rs. 8pm FREE COPY verse), BuxWV 250 TUESDAY, MAY 16TH Georg Böhm, • DJ Vlada, Freestyler, boat • DJ Vlada, Freestyler, boat Preludium, Fuge und Postludium, Concert hall, 8pm Concert by the music school ”Josip Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. on Sava river, 11pm on Sava river, 11pm G minor Johann Sebastian Bach, Slavenski” Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • Last Rizla & Last Thrill, Toccata D major, BWV 912 Admission free th Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 WEDNESDAY MAY 10 Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, Soloist: Milan Popović, Harpsichord WEDNESDAY MAY, 17TH Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić 9pm TH • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat FRIDAY, MAY 12 BIRN editorial team: Concert hall 8pm Concert hall, 8:30pm th Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, on Sava river, 11pm WEDNESDAY MAY 17 Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Russian Jazz in Belgrade Soloist: Oleg Kireyev, saxophone & guests Conductor: [email protected] • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, Admission free Sava Centar Vladimir Kulenović Sales & Marketing: Marija Shake and Shake, boat on • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat Dom omladine Beograda Petrović Sava river, 11pm on Sava river, 11pm Dvorana Kulturnog centra Beograda Jugoslovenska kinoteka Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • Božo Vrećo, Ilija M. Kolarac • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, Bioskop Fontana [email protected] Endowment, Studentski Trg Shake and Shake, boat on 5, 8:30pm Sava river, 11pm Cineplexx Ušće Subscription & Distribution: Centar za kulturu “Vlada Divljan” Goran Knezevic • Wovenhand, Dom th +381 11 4030 303 THURSDAY MAY 11 Omladine, Makedonska 22,

[email protected] 9pm • Shake the Nineties, Shake 8:00 Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterraneanz and Italian cuisine th SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES Printing: POLITIKA štamparija and Shake boat on Sava THURSDAY MAY 18 river, 11pm d.o.o. • House Night, Freestyler, • Ensh + Sergio Lounge, ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight boat on Sava river, 11pm Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 • Gipsy Kings, Hala Sportova, 9pm Circulation: 4,000 Pariske komune 20, 8pm • Igor Vince, Studentski • Bongzilla & Northern Grad Cultural Centre, Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs Revival, Elektropionir, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. Cetinjska 15, 8pm 8pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 15 GOING OUT ON THE SPOT

Beautifying Belgrade

Attempts to revamp the city's old core yield mixed results and controversy.

Metropolis Music Café The coolest thing about Metropolis is that they have a pretty excellent live music programme. Photos: Facebook/Metropolis Music Café

However, it has recently also become a sense that you can dig through crates really great assortment of acts to play, and chairs and brightly painted walls Just minutes really cool rock bar to boot. of used vinyl and ask someone in the from full rock bands to acoustic folk lined with all kinds of interesting mu- from Republic Located in the central Makedonska store to play it for you. Most of the mu- musicians and even string ensembles sic memorabilia. Drink prices are very street, the Metropolis Music Café has sic for sale at Metropolis comes in the that play classical music. It's great to see reasonable as well, considering the Square, this become an unexpectedly sound place form of brand new, sealed compact that Metropolis cares very much about prime location. There's a very respect- to go out and see some quality live discs and vinyl. providing an interesting and varied able assortment of alcoholic and non- record shop-bar music or simply get some drinks with Despite the fact that the concept is programme that sets it apart from the alcoholic drinks available and there friends. not new or even executed in an inter- run-of-the-mill pop cover bands you'll are always several beer options on hybrid is a sound A similar concept exists in Dorćol- esting fashion, Metropolis is still a very run into in the majority of similarly tap. based Leila, which we recently wrote cool spot on its own. If you don't mind small live music venues. While Metropolis might not be the New facades in Karađorđeva street. Photos: Srđan Garčević venue for drinks about. However, I'm inclined to say the buses, taxis and trolleys that are And since Metropolis is very well best hybrid record store and bar of that Leila has realised and executed constantly rushing through Makedon- connected with the Serbian and Balkan its type in Belgrade, it's certainly well and live music. the concept at a much higher level. ska street, there's a nice little garden out music scene, there are promotions for worth investigating, especially if you're While Leila's café and record store front where you can get some coffee new records and books held very regu- looking to see some live music with Srđan GARČEVIĆ look substantially better, while the others look abandoned at the start of Belgrade's summer David GALIĆ operate as a single entity, the situa- with friends or co-workers during the larly at the store. friends in a bar that is just minutes from almost unchanged. tourist season. One of the few workers present at tion at Metropolis is pretty segregat- day. On the nights that don't have acts Republic Square. ince last September, historical parts of Considerably more accomplished is the re- the site, who is reconstructing one of the facades, ne of the biggest ed. Namely, the music store is on the There are a couple of tables on the booked, there will usually be a DJ play- central Belgrade have been caught up in a construction of about a dozen facades on Sava- noted that a lot of work is needed to bring the record labels and ground floor and the café is on the top ground floor where the music shop ing a variety of rock and pop music but Sflurry of beautification. We are finally start- mala's main thoroughfare, Karađorđeva street, quarter back to its former glory. Still, he said that music production floor. There really isn't much osmosis is, but the real seating is up on the first at very reasonable levels that allow you ing to see some results. which began in October last year. Before World the scaffolding should come down by the end companies in Serbia, between the two. floor. to talk comfortably with your friends Metropolis Music Café The most tactically timed, and least substan- War II, Savamala used to be an elegant com- of May, at which point the cobblestones will be Metropolis, has had Sure, you can go down to the shop The coolest thing about Metropolis without having to scream. Address: Makedonska 21 tial, of these projects was the restoration of the mercial district, and it is great to see its ornate laid again. its own record store and browse their selection and buy is that they have a pretty excellent live The entire interior is nicely put to- Contact: +381 63 237020 pre-World War II facades around Terazije and buildings returned to splendour after decades of Finally, works to expand the pedestrian area Kralja Milana which started in March during the inO Belgrade's city centre for a while now. some music, but it's not like Leila in the music programme. The bar brings a gether, dominated by wooden tables www.metropolismusic.rs neglect and heavy pollution. around Knez Mihailova street are continuing. run-up to the presidential election. The project Unfortunately, the ambitious reconstruction Construction vehicles appeared on Cara Lazara was met with criticism due to alleged side- of the historic Kosančićev venac district, which street, while works on Obilićev venac are near- stepping and rushing of procedures to time the started last September, seems to have stalled. ing completion. Although the removal of cars French Bossa Nova legends Barcelona Gipsy works for maximum political gain. Slightly more The quaint quarter, which housed Serbian created lovely new piazzas in Uskočka and than a month later, the scaffolding that mush- merchants from the early 19th Century, was Vuka Karadžića streets, those living in the area announce June concert Orchestra at Kolarac roomed in the main axis of Belgrade's old town singled out for a major facelift. However, with are complaining that the project is making their are slowly disappearing to reveal new facades its cobble-stoned streets dug up and scaffolding lives significantly more difficult and are organis- ouvelle Vague are no strangers to Belgrade, hav- he name of this group is pretty self-explanatory. The Bar- with mixed results. Only a few buildings now covering most of the houses, it looks eerie and ing to petition the City Hall to change the project. ing already played here several times over the celona Gipsy Balkan Orchestra hails from Barcelona, past few years. So it makes sense that they Spain and plays music inspired by the Balkans – par- are planning another visit to Serbia to pro- ticularly from gypsy musical traditions. The group mote their latest album I Could Be Happy. will play at the Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment on Mon- WhatN we know right now is that the concert will be held Tday, May 15th. Still, while the name of the group does define it on Saturday, June 24th. However, organisers haven't yet pretty well, it doesn't tell the whole story. The group is inspired divulged the location, saying that it's going to be a very in- by a very large list of musical traditions from not only the Bal- teresting surprise venue that many might not expect. No kans and traditional Roma music but also from across Eastern news either on ticket prices or when they will be released, Europe, including Jewish, Ottoman, Arabic and many other mu- but you should expect tickets to be in the €15 to €20 range, as sical traditions from a variety of locations and centuries. Tickets they were the last time the band played in Belgrade about three cost eight euros at the door. years ago.

AIRLINE TICKETS FOR THE WHOLE WORLD Greek prog rock at Elektropionir My Baby bring Dutch New Serbian rock at Dom Omladine blues to Belgrade Wovenhand return to Serbia US Stoner Metal legends in town Belgrade will be hosting two up-and- If you're interested in some newer and coming progressive rock bands from Coming from the Netherlands, My fairly unique Serbian bands that you After a successful Belgrade show last One of the most popular stoner metal Greece - Poem and Until Rain - on Sat- Baby is a blues rock band currently might not have heard about, get down year, Americana and dark folk legends bands on the American scene, Wis- urday, May 13th at Elektropionir. Poem on tour promoting their latest album to Dom Omladine on Friday, May 5th Wovenhand are coming back to Dom consin's Bongzilla, will be coming to were the support act last year for the entitled Prehistoric Rhythm. The band to check out the exciting trio of Auf Omladine. The band will be playing in Belgrade for the first time on Thursday, Novi Sad leg of the Finnish folk/prog is very much influenced by American Wiedersehen, Sana Garić and Flesh Belgrade on Wednesday, May 17th and May 11th. Formed in 1995, the band is legends Amorphis tour, while Until styles such as swampy, dirty blues Community. All three groups tip-toe in Novi Sad on Wednesday, May 18th. coming after a brilliant performance at Rain has never played in Serbia. Open- rock, gospel and other forms of Ameri- the line between rock and electro mu- Novi Sad is actually the first city they the popular Roadburn Festival in Til- ing the show will be one of Serbia's best cana. The band are playing on Satur- sic, but none of them sound anything ever played in Serbia, and that gig was burg last week. Novi Sad sludge metal new bands in this style, Asymmetry. day, May 13th at Dom Omladine and alike. Tickets cost just three euros at six years ago. Tickets for both shows band Northern Revival will be opening www.flyflytravel.com Tickets cost just four euros at the door. tickets cost eight euros at the door. the door. cost about €15 at the door. and tickets cost €15 at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 05 - Thursday, May 18, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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