Petzl Foundation Activities Report 2014

Exploring new horizons Contents

Nine years in service of the public interest...... 4 - 5 2014, a symbolic year A new Aigle refuge...... 6 - 7 The Aigle refuge was the first project of the Petzl Foundation. It has finally been rebuilt while respecting Reducing the risks in date palms...... 8 - 9 its long history and its exceptional alpine location. This is a powerful symbol for our foundation. This Understanding mountain sports accidents...... 10 - 11 project demonstrated that having strong convictions and sharing them can overcome seemingly insurmountable obstacles (see pages 6 and 7). Scientific exploration in Papuan karsts...... 12 - 13 Training in India and Jordan with the UIAA...... 14 2015 will be the year of our commitment to the subject of "near misses", a collaborative project Silos Climbing Park in Santiago, Chile...... 15 that will provide all those who enjoy sporting activities in the mountains with the opportunity to communicate on extreme situations that could have led to serious accidents. By gaining a deeper Rescue training in Greece...... 16 understanding of situations that result in accidents, we believe that we can enhance our approach Dialogue between mountain and science...... 17 to prevention, improve training course content and also develop better equipment. This would Seeking the last lost worlds...... 18-19 undoubtedly benefit every member of our mountain and vertical rope access communities. Meetings in the canyons...... 20 Since 2006, our foundation has supported and funded over one hundred projects around the Outdoor business giving back to the outdoors...... 21 world. In total, we raised more than three million euros to serve the mountain communities and the vertical world - the individuals who have allowed our company to grow and prosper. In return, The sharing of mountains...... 22 the commitment of the Petzl Foundation to serve the public interest contributes to the image of Adaptive climbing with Paradox Sports...... 23 the Petzl Group and helps preserve the jobs of the men and women who work for our company. Fixed Anchors – Yesterday and Today...... 24 In addition, hundreds of volunteers are involved in all these projects. Developping telecommunications...... 25 Sustainable practices on mountains...... 26 Most of the time, the involvement of our foundation is low-profile, yet we remain highly motivated Encouraging free access to climbing sites...... 27 by the desire to make positive and meaningful changes within our communities.

Other projets supported in 2014...... 28 - 30 I have every confidence that we will succeed. Submit a project...... 31 Paul Petzl, President Key figures...... 32 - 33 In the words of the foundation trustees...... 34 - 35

The Petzl Foundation

For forty years, Petzl has been designing vertical access equipment for recreational and professional use, providing technical solutions to help people achieve their dreams of ascension in daylight and darkness, while ensuring maximum performance and freedom.

Petzl’s corporate philanthropy has a long history in the USA. Paul Petzl, president and founder, gave this activity a boost in 2005 by creating the Petzl Foundation, to serve the environment that has enabled the company to grow and prosper.

The mission of the Petzl Foundation is to conduct activities contributing to sustainable development. Our priorities are education and safety in vertical activities, as well as research into a harmonious balance between man and his cultural, economic and ecological environments. The Petzl Foundation supports non-profit projects that work for the benefit of our society and in the public interest, most specifically in these three areas: - accident prevention and risk management training - preservation of the environment - scientific research ©

Cover photo: the new Aigle refuge © Pascal Tournaire

2 3 Nine years in service of the public interest

2007 A handbook for mountain clubs With an initial support of the Petzl BASIC KNOWLEDGE P. 3 Foundation, he managed to raise $ A. ENVIRONMENT �� 5 1� Natural Environment �� 7 Contents 2� Meteorology ��23 The English-language version 3� Orientation ��43 Since 2013, the International Mountai- 76,000 donated in full for the protection of this Summer Alpine-Skills Handbook B. LEADING A GROUP ��71 1� Group Management ��73 ofwas translateda territory by the: which is home to the 2� Decision-Making ��77 neering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) C. ADAPTING TO THE ENVIRONMENT ��85 1� Nutrition and hydration ��87 has had a mountain technical hand- climbing sitesAlpine Club of Canada of Indian Creek and 2� Cold ��91 Box 8040 Station Main, 201 Indian 3� Altitude ��99 Flats Road, Canmore, Alberta T1W 4� Lightning �� 103 5� Sun �� 107 book, specifically developped for trip Fisher Tower.2T8, Canada Partners D. RESCUE �� 109 www�alpineclubofcanada�ca 1� Protect, Call, Care �� 111 2� Evacuating an injured person�� 125 leaders and instructors of clubs and 3� First-aid kit �� 131 ALPINE HIKING P. 133 federations. Plentifully illustrated by the Budget: $ 10,000 in 2012 Skills: Summer Skills: 1� Equipment �� 135 2� Mountain travel �� 139 3� Alpine trekking hygiene �� 149 Petzl technical drawings, this 340-page 4� Alpine hiking grades �� 155 5� Managing and leading a trek �� 159 In collaboration with the 6� Evaluation �� 169 book is the result of collaboration his handbook is intended for hikers, climbers and International Mountaineering CLIMBING P. 171 mountaineers who wish to progress in the practice and Climbing Federation (UIAA) 1� Equipment �� 173 between theof their UIAA, favourite activity various by acquiring alpine additional clubs, Monbijoustrasse 61, Postfach, T Skills: Summer 2� Tying in �� 187 knowledge and skills. It has been developed specifically as a 3000 Berne 23, Suisse� 3� Single-pitch routes�� 201 reference document for trip leaders and instructors of clubs www�theuiaa�org 4� The belay station �� 213 and Petzland federationstechnicians. within the International It provides Mountaineering reliable 5� Multi-pitch routes �� 225 and Climbing Federation� The handbook’s four modules focus 6� Rappelling �� 231 ine primarily on summer activities: Basic Knowledge, Alpine 7� Tips and troubleshooting �� 241 solutions for alpine hiking, climbing, via 8� Rock-climbing grades �� 259 Hiking, Climbing and Alpinism. Its goal is to put forth proven 9� Evaluation �� 261 techniques that should be learned and mastered through

proper technical training as provided by an instructor� Alpine

ALPINISM P. 265 ferrata and mountaineering. This "Alpine p 1� Equipment �� 267 The English-language version With technical and financial support was developed in collaboration 2� Roping up �� 271 Skills Summer" handbook is available in of the Petzl Foundation 3� Climbing �� 279 with the Alpine Club of Canada 4� Belay stations on snow and ice �� 295 ZI de Crolles, Cidex 105 A, 5� Crevasse rescue �� 305 38920 Crolles, France 6� Tips and troubleshooting �� 313 French and English from affiliated alpine www.petzl-foundation.org 7� Mountaineering grades �� 321

8� Evaluation �� 327 Al Basic Knowledge – Alpine hiking – Climbing – Alpinism – Alpine hiking Climbing Alpinism Basic Knowledge clubs of the UIAA. With the support of the

Couv7_memento.indd 1 Budget: € 164,000 from 2007 to 2014 12/09/13 17:11 2012 2009 Protection of the Redrock desert in How can we reduce accidents in the Canyonlands National Park (Utah) Goûter couloir on Mont Blanc? As he walked down the narrow Blue From 1990 to 2011, 74 people died John Canyon, Aron Ralston's right and 180 were injured in the Goûter hand was crushed by a boulder which couloir, on the normal route of Mont was accidentally dislodged. Trapped Blanc. The route across the Goûter in the canyon for more than five days, accounts for 15% of all mountainee- Aron realized that his only chance of ring deaths in France and creates a survival was to amputate his arm to free bad image of mountain activities. The himself from the rock. He revealed his Petzl Foundation launched several ordeal in his autobiography "Between studies designed clearly to illustrate a Rock and a Hard Place", adapted for Casteltown Tower, Utah, United States the dangers of the normal route to the the film "127 hours" directed by Danny

summit. We now want to open the Boyle in 2010. Ralston © Courtesy of Aron discussion on practical solutions to Since 2006, the Petzl Foundation has supported associations and researchers working to advance reduce exposure to hazards, without Aron wanted to put his new notoriety to Aron Ralston in the Blue John mountain and verticality communities. Revisiting a few existing projects provides testimony of our altering the mountain. the service of protecting this emblematic Canyon, at the site of his accident. place of climbing and canyoning. commitment to serve those communities that have helped Petzl grow and prosper. Budget: € 136,000 from 2009 to 2014

2002 2006 At the origin of the Petzl Foundation, Into the heart of waterfall ice the preservation of Castletown tower From 2006 to 2013, a team of resear- Corporate philanthropy is a well esta- chers from the Glaciology Laboratory blished practice in the United States. of Grenoble worked on the formation, In 2002, a land developer considered growth and collapse of waterfall ice. The

closing the access to the famous Castle- objective of this study was to improve © Monica Dalmasso town Tower to build luxury homes. With knowledge for climbers, as well as the the Utah Open Lands association, Petzl scientific community. To better unders- America organized a fundraising event tand the metamorphosis of the ice, and donated $ 10,000 in an attempt to measuring devices were installed in redeem the land adjacent to the tower. several ice falls under different geogra- Climbers and mountain equipment phic conditions, including Chamonix, companies were immediately mobi- Samoens (Haute-Savoie, France) and lized. In less than a year, the associa- Fairbanks (Alaska). tion had collected over $ 640,000 in donations. The land was purchased, The collected data provide simple inter-

and access to Castleton Tower is now pretation keys of waterfall ice and their © Stéphane Lozac'hmeur preserved for climbers, photographers conditions, as well as help in decision and outdoor enthusiasts. making for climbers. You can find the final The Goûter couloir in early summer. results on www.petzl-foundation.org. The success of this project, initiated by Petzl, was the inspiration for the crea- Budget: € 286,000 from 2006 to 2013 Core drilling in the Nuit Blanche waterfall, Get the latest updates of the projects supported by the Petzl Foundation on www.petzl-foundation.org tion of the Petzl Foundation in 2005. Mont Blanc range. 4 5 A new Aigle refuge

« United around this project, the mountain community has reached an agreement to preserve the symbolic value of this refuge. To preserve its original spirit, we have retained its simple rustic

Photos © Pascal Tournaire style. At the heart of the design of this refuge, is the single spacious room, where everyone eats and sleeps together.

This modest hut, perched high up in this magestic Alpine setting, reminds us of man's precarious place in the mountains.

If you have the opportunity to visit the refuge, you will be struck by the natural power of this site. Maybe it was this power that gave us the energy to rebuild the refuge. » © Stéphane Lozac'hmeur

The Aigle refuge is now back on its rock at 3,450 meters, at the foot of the Meije in the French aim of this was to build the complete Alps. 10 years of controversy came to an end with an architectural project, funded by the Petzl refuge (shell, cover, interior furniture), prior to its construction on site during Foundation. This modern design has succeeded in preserving the unique heritage of the site. the summer of 2014. Architecture students organized visits for the general public during the show. In 2004, the initial Aigle refuge this legendary refuge, perched at an its unique central living area. The old renovation project, which planned altitude of 3,450 meters in the heart wooden beams were reused for its A documentary in French about to demolish the old building, was of the Ecrins mountain range, in the reconstruction. After having been the refuge was made, with support strongly objected to by the mountain French Alps. After almost 10 years of opposed to the demolition of the from the Petzl Foundation. "La community. After 10 years of discord, the mountain community has original refuge, the Petzl Foundation nouvelle cabane de l’Aigle", by The architectural project by Atelier controversy, the Petzl Foundation rallied around this new architectural succeeded in bringing the mountain Claude Andrieux, tells the story of its 17C respects the wish to preserve offered to provide funding for a design, which has received broad community together for talks, which renovation. as much as possible. The shape new architectural study. This met consensus. resulted in this new architectural of the building and its interior were with general approval. This new study. For the architect Jacques Felix- View the timeline of this legendary left intact. Only those parts of the architectural design retains the old This solution met with almost Faure, the Aigle refuge has become an refuge (in French) on www.petzl- original structure, which were too building’s original structure, which is everyone's expectations, both in example of a collaborative architecture foundation.org. badly damaged were not retained. now protected by a larger wooden terms of preserving the refuge and process for his students. Laura and Louis, the new Aigle shell that preserves this unique the site, while meeting the growing refuge guardians. heritage from deterioration. needs of the French Alpine Club. The In spring 2014, the French Alpine capacity has increased from 18 beds Club and Jacques Felix-Faure put the In July 2013, the Marseille to 30, and a larger living space for the wooden structure of the refuge on Project partner: Association des amis du refuge de l’Aigle (Friends of the Aigle refuge) / Fédération française des clubs alpins administrative court put an end to refuge keeper was added. It respects display at the mountain development et de montagne (French Alpine Club) - www.clubalpin.com / Funding of an architectural study commissioned to the Atelier 17C. the long controversy surrounding the "spirit" of the original refuge, with show in Alpexpo, in Grenoble. The Budget: € 85,000 since 2006

6 FRANCE 7 Reducing the risks in date palms

« Today one of the biggest problems facing date palm agriculture is the scarcity of skilled workers. This high-risk profession, within which accident victims receive little or no compensation, attracts fewer and fewer young people. The layout of the plots and access to them means that mechanization is almost impossible. Date palm oases also provide shade for family vegetable gardens.

By improving safety, this harness enhances the economic conditions of date palm workers' families and indirectly contributes to the correct maintenance of our oasis and its biodiversty.

I also hope that it becomes a serious argument to convince insurance companies to provide coverage fo date palm workers who use this harness. »

Nordine Boulahouat, Project leader,

Photos © Olivier Moret BEDE association

In 2010, the BEDE association, asked the Petzl Foundation to find a technical solution to improve the Furthermore young people no longer Another "low cost" solution safety of date palm workers. A technical solution to prevent falls was developed and successfully want to join the profession because of tested by climbers of the Ghardaia date palm oasis in Algeria. At the end of 2014, this technical solution the dangers involved, but date palms A harness made from pieces of rope are a core crop of Saharan agriculture. and chain was also tested during was shown to date palm workers in Kébili and Tozeur, in southern Tunisia. Dates are widely consumed throu- this mission. This "low cost" solution, ghout the Maghreb and the Middle designed by two Petzl Foundation Nine date palm workers from Ghar- date palm workers' safety, they hands to grasp a tool without running East. The date palm also provides trustees, was based on the same daia made the trip to Kébili to present wanted to promote these new tech- the risk of falling to the ground. This is essential shade for the vegetable principles as the more expensive the "date palm harness" during the nical solutions within their profession. a real benefit for these workers, who gardens of local populations. solution. Although it is less comfor- international date palm festival. They Date palm workers are regularly the were used to working more than 15 table, the "low cost" harness can also contributed significantly to the deve- victims of serious accidents. meters above ground level, without For the BEDE and Tazdait associa- be used to work more safely on the lopment of this innovative safety solu- any form of protection. Encouraged tions, the objective is now to find date palm. This "low cost" solution is tion with the three partners involved For three days, they organized by their fellow date palm workers from sources of finance which will enable easy to make and doesn't require the in the project: Tazdait association, demonstrations for members of their Algeria, several Tunisian workers tried them to manufacture and distribute use of complex or expensive tools. It the BEDE association and the Petzl profession. They were assisted by the harness for themselves. this new harness. could be an alternative for date palm Foundation. The harness was desi- Marc Seraphin, a Petzl Foundation workers who are unable to purchase gned by the Petzl Group's customized trustee and Olivier Lami, a Petzl Group Today, there is still a lack of safety more expensive equipment. products business unit. employee and skills transfer volunteer. regulations and legislation for date Skepticism was quickly replaced by palm workers. However, the existence After a series of successful tests curiosity, as the date palm workers of a solution that improves safety carried out in 2013, Noureddine Ben discovered how this new equipment and working conditions is changing Saadoun, Yacine Becis, Mustafa could help them work safely, thanks attitudes within the profession. The Cherifi and their companions became to two lanyards and a clever adjust- question of cost is also a critical issue Project partner: international solidarity association BEDE (biodiversity, exchange and propagation of experience) experts in the use of this new harness. ment system. When the workers are where personal safety equipment for www.bede-asso.org, in conjunction with the local association Tazdaït Convinced by the need to improve in suspension, they can release both date palm workers is concerned. Budget: € 43, 800 in 2014, € 61,600 since 2010 / Skills transfer volunteerism: 10 days

8 ALGERIA / TUNISIA 9 Understanding mountain sports accidents

A few figures: - The Mont-Blanc mountain range (French side) alone accounts for Accidentology of more than 30% of deaths related to a mountain sport in France, almost half of which occur during mountaineering. mountain sports - The number of unharmed accident victims should also be taken into Situation review & diagnosis account since it represents a little more than a third (36%) of those

© Philippe Descamps rescued. Bastien Soulé - Most serious or fatal accidents appear to involve locals, who would Brice Lefèvre Eric Boutroy Véronique Reynier be expected to have sufficient knowledge to analyse the risks adequa- Frédérique Roux tely. However, they are particularly exposed due to the large number of Jean Corneloup mountain excursions they undertake. - Among the victims rescued in the Mont-Blanc mountains, men account for 81% of deaths, and more than 80% of deaths in the Austrian mountains are also men. - Accidents generally occur during descent, in many cases away from the main passages considered to be the most difficult. - The so-called objectives dangers (falling rocks or ice, cornice break, etc.) are responsible for only 3% to 4% of emergency rescue operations in Switzerland. - 59% of climbing injuries (on equipped cliffs) do not cause serious injuries. December 2014

Number of expedition Number of Fatal Period participants recorded deaths accidentality 1951-1955 184 1 0,54% 1956-1960 222 1 0.45% 1961-1965 268 3 1.12% 1966-1970 241 10 4.15%

1971-1975 789 12 1.52% Himalayan Data Base Source: 1976-1980 734 13 1.77% 1981-1985 1 184 30 2.53% 1986-1990 1,974 31 1.57% 1991-1995 2,503 26 1.04% Crevasse rescue training. 1996-2000 2,505 34 1.36% An example of data processing 2001-2005 3,424 25 0.73% by the researchers: fatal acciden- Since 2012, the Petzl Foundation has funded research into mountain sport accidents. Our long-term aim tology for Mount Everest rates 2006-2010 4,451 27 0.60% is to improve prevention. Due to the lack of accurate information and the absence of communication, 1951 to 2010. several social science research laboratories have joined forces to launch an international study related to mountain sport accidents. A first research report was published in December 2014. « The main idea behind this project was that effective prevention must be We believe that information given during abseiling, belaying or because To share the findings of this study based on a thorough knowledge of the different kinds of accident victims, about prevention, as well as moun- of bad weather? What was the skill with mountain communities, the Petzl and also the circumstances that cause accidents. Not only has our work tain technical training, could be made level, experience, and composition of Foundation organized two seminars added to the wealth of information currently available, it has also revealed more effective by using factual data the group of mountaineers involved in in Toulouse (February 2014) and in the difficulties in analyzing the large quantities of data produced by moun- related to the frequency of accidents, any given accident? Grenoble (December 2014). tain clubs and federations, trade unions, and government bodies. Our work risk factors, and better knowledge of has given a clearer, broader vision of the situation, which has not been situations which typically lead to acci- This work aims to identify with accu- This first phase of research resulted available until now. dents. Many mountain professionals racy the actual danger and the chain in a report entitled “Accidentology of believe that better knowledge is the of events that lead to any given acci- mountain sports Situation review & The input of the Petzl Foundation was beneficial in that it enabled us to Bastien Soulé, sociologist basis for effective accident prevention. dent, by investigating mountaineering, diagnosis”, and is downloadable on share data, which is the first step towards identifying areas for improvement Sporting research and innovation centre, canyoning and ski touring accidents. www. petzl-foundation.org. in terms of mountain sports risk analysis. » Université Lyon 1 In France and elsewhere in the world, This study will go beyond the statis- many organizations collect accident tics and seek to identify the scenario data. However, this data is often scat- types, the natural phenomena, objec- tered, inaccurate and incomplete. It is tive hazards, and technical issues that difficult to use this data effectively. For either led to a near-miss or to a serious Project partner: Multidisciplinary research group from the Universities of Lyon 1, Grenoble, and Clermont-Ferrand. example, how many accidents occur accident involving multiple victims. Download the study on www.petzl-foundation.org. Budget: €14,000 in 2014, € 46,500 since 2012

10 FRANCE 11 Scientific exploration in Papuan karsts Marc Porte Marc Porte Marc © Jean- © Jean- © Guilhem Maistre

The karstologists walk alongside the waterfalls in the mountains of Kumawa. Scientific exploration requires caving skills to access underground rivers and caves. For two months, the Franco-Indonesian expedition Lengguru 2014 explored the heart of the forest of West Papua (Indonesia). More than 70 scientists recorded plant and animal species living on one of the most beautiful and wildest karst formations on our planet. A team of cavers accompanied the scientists on their underground explorations.

The Lengguru region, is characterized adaptation process of animals living in By the end of the expedition, hundreds by alternating mountain folds and these unique ecosystems. of specimens had been collected, isolated deep valleys. It is a little ranging from 100 meters below the known "biodiversity hotspot", which is A base camp set up in the small sea, to 1,400 meters above sea level. of great scientific interest. For millions village of Lobo, in Triton Bay, was the These specimens attest to the excep- of years, the Papua karst formations first starting point for the scientists. tional biodiversity of the Papoua karst have evolved as a result of complex After paddling up the Lengguru river ecosystems. The scientists hope to tectonic movements. These regions in dugouts, the scientists explored the identify nearly fifty new species after which are often unexplored because area, later joining the underground DNA analysis. of difficult access, are important river passage at the other end of the reservoirs of biodiversity and home to range, thereby acquiring a better Lengurru 2014 forms part of a long- Photos © Bruno Granouillac many endemic species. understanding of the hydrological term research program started in Vincent Droissart, an orchid specialist, has collected some orchids These bats, often called flying foxes, are fruit bats. system. The ichthyologists (fish 2010. New expeditions focusing from the forest's floor and some from the tops of trees. They can have wingspans in excess of one meter. Conducted by the Research Institute specialists) were delighted with the on ornithology, marine science and for Development, the Indonesian Insti- collection of a rare species of rainbow archeology are planned for 2016. tute of Sciences and the Academy of fish. In the Kumawa range, the Sorong Fisheries, the aim of the expe- botanists made an inventory of rare Project partner: Institut de recherche pour le développement (Research Institute for Development) dition was to better understand the orchids and other plants. www.ird.fr and www.lengguru.org Budget: Caving equipment (donation of € 2,500)

12 INDONESIA 13 Training in India and Jordan with the UIAA Silos Climbing Park in Santiago, Chile © Deportelibre © Eric Lescarcelle © Fundation Deportelibre

The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) assists the federations around During the 2010 earthquake in Santiago, many structures were left unusable for their designed the world with their training efforts. In 2014, India and Jordan have welcomed the UIAA instructors purpose. Following this disaster, an energetic group of young architects, engineers and adventurers to reach the level of international training standards. formed Fundation Deporte Libre, a non-profit corporation dedicated to the development of a public sports infrastructure by recycling abandoned urban spaces. One such project focused on a large silo In August 2014, the Indian Alpine Club attainment of international training and were trained in group supervision. complex located in the inner city which the group planned to re-purpose as an urban climbing center. organized the "Climbathon", a moun- standards which are developed by They invited their students to explore taineering training camp on the Bara the UIAA. new routes to perfect their technique Shigri glacier, located in Himachal and discover new sites. Chile has more than two thousand began training on the silos and many communities have very high teenage Pradesh in the north of India. For three A few months later, UIAA's instructors unexplored summits and superb new climbers were introduced to the crime rates, drug use and domestic weeks, nearly fifty students trained were invited to Jordan, in the climbing venues throughout the Andes. sport. Guided by the belief that sports violence. by sixteen instructors were able to mountains of Wadi Rum and Wadi Climbing and mountaineering have are a fundamental part of a child’s improve their understanding of clim- Mudjib. The tourism office wanted to become increasingly popular sports education, Fundation Deportes Libre To support the training and education bing ice, rock and mixed terrain. organize training in trekking, climbing as climbers discover the true potential began offering free climbing courses efforts of Fundation Deportes Libre, Besides technical progression, students and canyoning for Jordanian trek of this magnificent mountain range. to inner city youth. the Petzl Foundation donated climbing were also trained in navigation, risk leaders. Eric Lescarcelle, a Petzl With the rapidly growing interest in equipment to outfit their training management and rescue. Some have employee taught the students climbing, the Silos Climbing Park is an The classes focused on modern courses. By the end of the summer, also climbed peaks over 6,000 meters canyoning techniques. The Petzl ideal location to introduce the urban climbing techniques and proper use 80 participants had completed the during this time. Foundation sent him as a volunteer, community to this new sport, teach and care of climbing equipment, course. They plan to provide training for a skills sponsorship program. new climbers proper technique, and with an emphasis on safety and for over 300 new climbers in 2015. Students benefited from the exper- instill an appreciation for nature and the environmental stewardship of The young climbers not only learn tise of the British trainer Ian Wall, sent During one week, seven Jordanian importance of conservation. natural climbing sites. Adolescents about climbing and conservation, by the UIAA. For the Indian Alpine students acquired rope progression of Santiago, Quinta Normal and but also learn self-confidence, Club, this is the first step towards the techniques, moving in white-water With the renovation of the climbing Independencia communes benefited good judgment, and teamwork in a © Steve Long park underway, climbers of all ages greatly from these programs. These supportive environment.

Project partner: International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) / www.theuiaa.org Project partner: Fundacion Deportelibre / deportelibre.cl Budget: € 10,000 in 2014, € 58,000 since 2007 / Skills sponsorship: 7 days Budget: climbing equipment (funding € 2,250)

14 INDIA / JORDAN CHILE 15 Rescue training in Greece Dialogue between mountains and science Photos © Sur les traces de Frison-Roche © Nicolas Grunbaum

Live demonstration of an exercise test simulating high altitude atmosphere. In March 2014, seven students from Frison-Roche secondary school in Chamonix, accompanied by four rescuers and mountain guides, achieved a ski ascent of Mount Olympus (2917 m), the Les Rencontres Montagnes et Sciences (The Meeting of Mountains and Science) is an event desi- highest point of Greece. This trip allowed them to meet the Greek rescuers of the Hellenic Rescue gned to present the wealth of scientific careers through mountain films for the general public. Team and expand their knowledge of avalanche rescue techniques. The first edition was held in November 2014, as part of the Rencontres du Cinéma de Montagne, a mountain film festival held in Grenoble, France. The young students from the moun- The idea of this trip to the Greek mountain section of the Frison-Roche tains was developed by Blaise Agresti, « We could see the contrast In 15 years, the Rencontres du Cinéma The goal was to open the screenings The Meeting of Mountains and Science secondary school of Chamonix, had commander of CNISAG (National between a country with great de Montagne in Grenoble has become to other approaches, showing scien- proved their point and showed that a an objective to meet members of Center of Ski and Mountaineering economic difficulties and the a major mountain film festival: more tific discoveries to address a wider significant public may be interested in the Hellenic Rescue Team, a group Instruction of the Gendarmerie), and generosity of our Greek hosts, than 15,000 people participate each audience. The choice of programming science-based films during this week of volunteer Greek rescuers with the Petzl Foundation trustee, with Denis who welcomed us very warmly ! year. For them, the peaks around the primarily focuses on films highlighting of screenings related to the moun- civil security. Together with their four Poussin, mountain guide and sports We were impressed by their city are not only a decoration but are the story of human and scientific tain. See you in November 2015 for French companions (all were guides or teacher in the Frison-Roche secon- determination and their investment part of their daily lives. As Grenoble adventure. a new edition. professional rescue team members), dary school. The young people were in their rescue association. We is also a recognized scientific capital, the students went to the Pétrostrouga also involved in raising funding and found a strong solidarity, a bunch two researchers proposed to expand Seven original films were shown, inclu- refuge, which is the first step on the collecting equipment so that the expe- of friends passionate about the the programming of new movies to ding two on the projects supported by ascent of Mount Olympus. dition could take place. mountains. » include science in the mountains. the Petzl Foundation: Scientific Itine- raries into the Heart of Icefalls and Accustomed to the handling of The trip culminated with the ascent Clément Renard and Rémy Schmitt, Maurine Montagnat, a researcher at the Makay, Adventurers of the Lost World. avalanche transceivers, the students of Mount Olympus in excellent condi- students of the mountain section, Laboratory of Glaciology of Grenoble Showing young audiences how conducted demonstrations for the tions with three Greek rescuer team Lycée Roger Frison-Roche and also in charge of the research Greek rescue team members. To members. Before leaving, the students project on waterfall ice supported by interesting the trades and scientific increase their knowledge of the overall gave their safety equipment (trans- the Petzl Foundation, along with Eric careers can be, while raising envi- management of a rescue, a compre- ceivers, shovels and probes) to the Larose, a researcher at the Institute of ronmental awareness of the moun- hensive exercise was organized to Hellenic Rescue Team volunteers to Earth Sciences, co-organized the first tains, was one of the goals of this first locate five casualties buried under enable them to perform their tasks edition of The Meeting of Mountains edition. Their objective was achieved © Nicolas Hairon the snow. more efficiently. and Science. They wanted to keep with two afternoon screenings which the spirit of discovery, exploration and welcomed nearly 3,000 people, inclu- Evrard Wendenbaum presents his eclecticism as presented in the films at ding 1,500 young schoolchildren film on the Makay, in Madagascar. Rencontres du Cinéma. on Friday.

Project partner: Sur les traces de Frison-Roche association www.biqualifdecham.com Project partner: Centre de Géologie de l'Oisans (Geology center of Oisans) / montagnesetsciences.alpes.cnrs.fr Budget: € 1,000 € in 2014. The students in front of Mount Olympus, 2917 m. Budget: € 3,000 in 2014

16 GREECE FRANCE 17 Seeking the last lost worlds

« In this period of drastic decline of our precious and essential biodiversity due to several anthropic factors, I think it's an urgent task for humanity to preserve the last natural areas that have not yet been affected or degraded. This is what the Lost Worlds project is made for. This is not just about modern exploration, fantastic adventures and great scientific discoveries, it's about saving pieces of our virgin planet which gave us life and which - I'd like to believe - will save us. It’s about our future!"

Evrard Wendenbaum,

Photos © Evrard Wendenbaum Photos © Evrard Naturevolution president

The adventurer Evrard Wendenbaum set out on a series of scientific expeditions to discover the last unexplored areas on the planet. His project called “Lost Worlds” aims to gain knowledge of the last remaining biological treasures so they can be protected before it’s too late. The Petzl Foundation is providing financial support for this project which brings together scientific research and conservation of the environment.

An experienced climber and mountai- by the Madagascar Forest and Environ- the Matarombeo mountain range, on neer, Evrard Wendenbaum has made a ment Ministry. the island of Sulawesi in Indonesia. number of documentaries about ascents Encouraged by the success of the Five scientists, accompanied by Evrard in some of the most inaccessible moun- Makay project, Evrard now wants to and his team, explored this challenging tain ranges on the planet. Always attentive continue exploring these "lost worlds", terrain which is home to a particularly to the beauty and fragility of the places he to better understand and protect them. dense tropical forest. This first expedi- visits, Evrard’s work focuses on the thou- One or two scientific expeditions will be tion led to the discovery of ancient rock sands of plant and animal species that organized each year, to explore spec- paintings and pottery which are still survive in spite of the constant threats tacular and often inhospitable natural being dated. Several rare species were posed by human activity. environments. Often located in tropical observed in the wild, such as the Hydro- The scientists gained access to the heart of the karst range by the The Hydrosaurus, endemic lizard of Sulawesi, can run on karst regions, these sites have been saurus lizard, as well as the anoa, the Lindu river, which flows underground through the Matarombeo. water over several meters. Since 2007, with the support of the preserved from environmental dete- smallest bovine in the world. Petzl Foundation, he has set up several rioration and have great potential for A series of documentary films will be scientific expeditions into the Makay natural and archaeological discoveries. made about these expeditions for public mountain range in south-west Mada- viewing. Evrard Wendenbaum will also Project partner: Naturevolution association / www.naturevolution.org and www.lost-worlds.org gascar. In December 2014, the Makay In October 2014, the Lost Worlds give talks when he returns from his Budget: € 10,000 in 2014. Additional funding has been planned for the next three years. was given temporary protection status project began with the exploration of expeditions.

18 INDONESIA 19 Meetings in the canyons Outdoor business giving back to the outdoors © Conservation Alliance

The Conservation Alliance board and staff during the annual board retreat, Eagle Creek Canyon in the Columbia River Gorge, Oregon. Bringing the outdoor industry's resources to the organizations working to protect wild places throughout North America: this is The Conservation Alliance’s mission! They collect annual © Hélène Luczyszyn membership dues from outdoor industry companies and contribute these funds to conservation organizations to protect threatened wild places for their habitat and recreation values. In October 2014, the Mountain Wilderness France association brought together people involved in canyoning and protection of aquatic environments for discussion and sport activities during a weekend. In 2014, for their 25th anniversary year, The Conservation met with members of Congress and the Obama Adminis- Alliance granted $1.55 million to more than 40 organiza- tration to demonstrate business support for conservation The goals of this weekend meeting were to get to know each other better and to work together to protect tions for their work to protect special places in the United measures. Several sign-on letters and post card campaigns these sensitive areas. States, Canada, and Mexico. were also conducted to bolster conservation efforts. Each project supported demonstrates that conservation is good Organized in partnership with the Rhône-Alpes Federation After the debates and brainstorming workshops, canyon Throughout the year, grantees protected 3,099,020 acres of for the economy. of Nature Protection and the Rhône-Alpes River Association, descents were organized for mixed groups which consisted land and 120 river miles, and acquired one popular climbing this meeting brought together about 70 people. More of representatives of all the institutions. area. They supported the New Mexico Wilderness Alliance than 30 organizations were represented, including to secure designation of the Organ Mountains-Desert sports federations, trade unions, nature conservation This weekend meeting helped to review the impacts of Peaks National Monument, protecting 496,330 acres of « The outdoor industry has an inherent connection to associations, conservatories of natural areas, natural canyoning on the natural environment, particularly through federal land in New Mexico. In Maine, they supported the our wild lands and waterways. These are the places parks, representatives of the Ministries of Environment and the critical analysis of existing studies. The attendees also Access Fund’s successful effort to acquire Eagle Bluff, a that outdoor enthusiasts go for adventure, solace, Sports, etc. Over the weekend, the attendees took part in shared their knowledge of best practices and existing tools 165-acre crag popular among climbers and hikers. and recreation. The Conservation Alliance was brainstorming workshops and canyoning expeditions. in the field. This meeting, which brought together a large founded in 1989 by four outdoor companies that sector of the canyoning community, should enable more The Adirondack Mountain Club secured a permanent ban felt the industry needed to do more collectively to The constructive discussions opened the debate on key effective and environmentally-responsible canyoning site on oil and gas development on and beneath 700,000 acres ensure that wild places are protected. issues, such as the high number of canyoneers on key management systems to be set up in the future. of state park and state forest land in New York. The Cali- sites, and how their impact on the environment can be fornia Wilderness Coalition used their funding to play a key Now, 25 years later, The Conservation Alliance assessed and reduced. To educate canyoneers, there are role in winning designation of the San Gabriel Mountains serves as the connecting point between the outdoor already guide books and topos, which provide information National Monument, protecting 346,177 acres of federal industry and the conservation community in North and suggest best practices to adopt. land in Southern California. Each of the projects supported America. Together, we are working to protect the is able to articulate a tangible end goal, like those above. places that are cherished by outdoor customers.» In addition, the training of canyoning supervisors has been improved with a state canyoning diploma, which In addition to funding conservation work, The Conserva- now includes a module on the environment. However, in tion Alliance supplements grants by organizing advocacy the opinion of the attendees, new tools such as a "code efforts on behalf of the projects supported. In 2014, they of conduct" for all canyoning enthusiasts, and animal completed a range of efforts that brought business voices

habitat fact sheets for equipment outfitters and canyoning © Eric Charron to bear on conservation efforts. Three trips were organized supervisors should be created. to Washington, DC during which outdoor business leaders John Sterling, Executive Director, The Conservation Alliance Project partners: The Conservation Alliance Project partners: Mountain Wilderness France / www.mountainwilderness.fr www.conservationalliance.com Budget: € 2,500 in 2014 (funding of € 5,000 in total) Budget: € 7,200 in 2014

20 FRANCE UNITED STATES 21 The sharing of mountains Adaptive climbing with Paradox Sports © Will Strathmann © Hugues Chardonnet

Paradox Sports envisions a world where people of all backgrounds and abilities can pursue a life of excellence through human-powered outdoor sports, regardless of physical disability. Paradox Since 2012, the 82-4000 Association organizes mountaineering discovery stays for people in poverty. Sports provides inspiration, opportunities, and adaptive equipment to the disabled community, By sharing the pleasure of being in the mountains with the most disadvantaged, the volunteers of enabling their pursuit of a life of excellence through human-powered outdoor sports. the association also advocate the right to outdoor recreation. In 2013, the Petzl Foundation provided a grant to assist The organization has also lead climbs on Mount Rainier, "I had the chance to become a guide and mountain doctor. Because of these stays, most participants had their first with the printing costs for an instruction manual for Adaptive the Grand Tetons, Ice climbing in Colorado, and a variety My social situation put me away from material concerns" contact with the mountains. Some had never left their Climbing programs, which helps individuals who have of outdoor and wilderness treks. Now, their goal is to create says Hugues Chardonnet, founder of the association. "One neighbourhood. After a natural apprehension to this new suffered severe injuries and amputations find a new life within 5 to 10 adaptive climbing clubs throughout North America. day, we chatted with a friend about the injustice of vacation environment, they began to trust the guides, the refuge a supportive community. This project began in 2007 with in the mountains. We realized that what our society called keepers and volunteers who make the link with the moun- their first adaptive climbing clinic held in Washington DC "recreational" had created a new border between those who tain environment. Valuable relationships were created which based climbing gym. Since that time, they have developed can go on vacation and those who do not have the means. helped erase seemingly insurmountable social barriers. their organization and designed adaptive climbing clinics Poor people cannot cross the border alone. » that have been delivered throughout North America. Today To fund its projects, 82-4000 relies on donations from foun- Paradox Sports' mission remains the same: to foster This is how the 82-4000 Association was born, referring dations like the Petzl Foundation or Insolites Bâtisseurs adaptive sport communities nationwide that are built to to the 82 mountain peaks over 4,000 meters. The aim is Foundation. It also utilizes an original system to raise funds inspire and improve people’s lives. to offer a discovery of high mountains for disadvantaged through the ascent of 82 Alpine peaks over 4,000 meters. The instruction manual provides expert anecdotes and people. Members of the association are guides or amateur "The members of the association have made the bet to lessons, as well as systems and resources for adaptive mountaineers. As they are not in direct contact with people ascend every 4,000 meter summit of the Alps," explains athletes, climbing wall instructors, outdoor guides and in poverty, they approached other associations such as Hugues Chardonnet. "This is the dream of many mountai- therapists. It is the bridge that will encourage climbing gyms ATD Fourth World (Act All For Dignity) to co-create projects. neers. This gives a symbolic dimension to our project and and outdoor programs to include disabled climbers within media visibility to the association. Each ascent of a 4,000 is their programs and facilities. The first stay took place in June 2013, with young people an opportunity to raise funds to finance training sessions." from the region of Paris. During the summer of 2014, six In 2014, Paradox Sports has worked with the American training sessions were held with groups of young people, To date, the members have climbed 28 peaks. Started two Mountain Guides Association to create a certification for women, and families from all over France. Five ski discovery years ago without any financial ressources, the 82-4000 adaptive climbing instructors. Sean O’Neil, a paraplegic or ice climbing trips took place in winter. Association is gaining popularity. climber and member of Paradox Sports, was the first to achieve this certification.

Project partner: Association 82-4000 Solidaires / www.824000.org Project partner: Paradox Sports / www.paradoxsports.org Budget: Endowment mountaineering equipment (€ 3,800). A project also supported by the Insolites Bâtisseurs Foundation. Budget: € 2,800 in 2014, € 5,100 since 2013

22 FRANCE UNITED STATES 23 Fixed Anchors – Yesterday and Today Developping telecommunications

More than two billion people in the world have no access to information and communication technologies (ICT), such as telephone and internet. This makes daily life more difficult, particularly in the developing word. Inveneo designs and delivers sustainable ICT tools to those who need it most. © Matt Treeser Tower climbing and work-at-height are critical components of Inveneo’s work in telecommunications. The technologies they work with require clear line-of-sight to operate, which means installing antennas on towers high above mountains, trees and other obstructions. Safe climbing is of great importance – whether by their own engineers or local partners who will carry on the work.

The Petzl Foundation has supported Inveneo since 2011 by working with Inveneo to develop a training program providing local technicians with the proper tools, techniques, and best practices for tower climbing safety, as well as providing equipment for Tower Access Kits to be left with technicians following training and initial installation.

Throughout 2014 Inveneo provided technical support during its ongoing Internet Now! project in Uganda and its Haiti Connect project. For example, Inveneo engineers and local partners have successfully completed Zones 1 – 5 of the network in its Haiti Connect project. This backbone comprised of hundreds of transmitters at 31 tower sites now provides a fully operational and stable network connecting 65 client centers in these regions of Haiti. Jesse Greater, cleaning epoxy off of new anchors on Darkness till Dawn, Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, USA Inveneo has also experience supporting NGOs with emergency communications, such as the 2010 earthquake in Nearly every style of climbing requires some degree of fixed anchor placement to safely ascend and Haiti. At the beginning of 2014, two engineers spent a month descend technical terrain. In north America, sport climbing has continued to grow in popularity since on the ground in the Philippines after Super Typhoon Haiyan hit. Inveneo focused its work in three areas: supporting its inception in the 1980s, which has significantly increased the use of fixed anchors. Today, the the UN Emergency Telecom Cluster, providing local area quality and safety of fixed hardware ranges from very good to abysmal. network assistance to NGOs working where the typhoon hit, and supporting local IT entrepreneurs with rebuilding efforts. Many of the most popular traditional and sport routes have Finally, they have organized the information so that expe- bolts that are in need of replacement. Bolt failures have rienced re-equippers can quickly find the information they Inveneo is not only interested in making a difference for occurred and are likely to increase in number and frequency need. communities around the world, but also forcommunities right if they are not replaced. With this growing need for retrofit- in our own backyard - in San Francisco, California. In 2014 ting old hardware accompanied by the rapid growth in new Through this website techniques for maintaining and repla- the team connected the Twin Peaks telecommunications © Inveneo route development, where does one go to find accurate cing existing bolts are being developed, shared, vetted and tower with radios and antennas, to provide wireless Internet and comprehensive information on bolting techniques? To improved. This information will make climbing safer for future to select non-profit organizations and several San Francisco Intervention in Ouganda. address this dilemma, the Access Fund is consolidating best generations and help preserve our climbing resources. city housing buildings. practices for placing new bolts and replacing antiquated bolts and hardware. They have written and compiled an extensive The Inveneo team has been able to use technology to body of articles and videos and made them available on make a positive difference in over 3,200,000 lives around « Our relationship with Petzl is a great benefit to us, but www.accessfund.org\anchorreplacement. the world. most importantly, to our partners who are now about to climb safely and get the job done. Your donations are The Access Fund has solicited input and feedback from having a deep impact on a global basis as highlighted in highly skilled route developers and re-equippers. Through our report. Ranging from Kampala, Uganda to Port-au- this process, they realized that the top level articles need « It is critically important that the climbing Prince, Haiti, and even to San Francisco, your equip- to be written for a more general audience (i.e. people who community take responsibility for updating and ment is helping shape lives around the world. » may never place a bolt but need to understand the basics: maintaining climbing anchors, and do so in a way how they work, that old bolts may be suspect, etc). They that preserves the rock and climbing experience for also learned they need to consistently encourage people future generations. We can’t afford to wait for land Samuel Perales, interested in bolting or re-equipping to seek out expe- managers to step forward or for climbers to head to Senior Field Engineer, Inveneo rienced mentors, as it is impossible to gain all the relevant the hills with drills and hammers, learning by trial and knowledge and experience through a website. error. The Petzl Foundation’s support of our project is helping to make this vision a reality. »

Brady Robinson, Project partner: Access Fund / www.accessfund.org Executive Director, Access Fund Project partner: Inveneo, American non-profit social enterprise / www.inveneo.org Budget: € 5,400 in 2014 Budget: € 5,000 in 2014, € 18,500 since 2011, including work-at-height equipment

24 UNITED STATES PHILIPPINES / UGANDA / HAÏTI 25 Sustainable practices on mountains Encouraging free access to climbing sites © Acceso PanAm

In August 2014, Acceso PanAm celebrated its first five years of operation. The Petzl Foundation has Supported by the Petzl Foundation, the 2014 Sustainable Summits conference was led by American supported this group since its creation in 2009. During this time their efforts have been focused on Alpine Club members and Denali National Park staff who brought people together from all over the globe. two main goals: to further mountain access and conservation in Latin America, and to inspire and train local activists to develop their own organizations. “Are we loving our mountains to death?” When you get a question like this, you have to ask, is this true? If so, what In Latin America, there are many threats to our precious In an effort to strengthen their own organization, Accesso can we do about it? A good example is Alaska’s Denali, climbing areas: hydroelectric dams, mining operations, PanAm has been developing outreach programs. In first climbed 101 years ago. Today this iconic peak is unsustainable tourism and development, all have the September, they organized the second annual “A Limpiar buffeted by user impacts, social challenges, and environ- potential to endanger climbing access, as well as the envi- Nuestras Montañas” (Clean Up our Mountains) campaign, mental threats – increased rock fall, receding glaciers and ronment. Acceso PanAm members believe access and a day of volunteer service focusing on the conservation of a changing climate. So too, are Mont Blanc, Mount Fuji, « For decades we’ve seen big changes in our moun- environmental conservation are two sides of the same coin, a climbing crag. Over 600 volunteers, serving 29 locations Kilimanjaro, Bolivia’s massifs, Antarctica’s Vinson, and even tain regions worldwide. Ice climbs have disappeared reinforcing and supporting each other. Access to climbing participated in this campaign in Brazil. Mount Everest. Sustainable Summits is an initiative to take in Africa and rock fall has made many routes in the sites, when coupled with education, increases awareness, on these challenges. European Alps too dangerous. Popularity has made which leads to stewardship and, ultimately, sustainability. many remote places crowded, with no infrastructure The Sustainable Summits conference was attended by to handle all who go there. The problems seem to be Access can only be achieved at the local level; so orga- researchers, guides, mountaineers, parks managers, deci- mounting. Roger and I believe that the best way to nized activists are essential to a long-term conservation « The Petzl Foundation is a fundamental partner that sion makers, and thought leaders who came to share their solve big problems is to inspire a great team and give strategy. A primary focus of Access PanAm’s work is to allows us to advance our mission. The 2014 grant ideas and solutions. To foster ongoing collaboration and a them tools. The 2014 Sustainable Summits Confe- promote training workshops throughout Latin America. In enabled us to organize a hands-on workshop in bias for action, there were 100 attendees representing all rence brought together those who are passionate November 2014, they held a three-day conference in Lima Peru, create educational campaigns, increase our seven continents. This was a global event, as all sessions about solutions. We thank the Petzl Foundation for with attendees from Peru, Colombia, and Uruguay. As a outreach, and to inspire the creation of Acceso Peru. were live-streamed and are permanently posted online. their inspired support and encouragement. direct result, Acceso Peru was created with the mission Together, Acceso PanAm and the Petzl Foundation The conference not only covered the universal problem of Our next Sustainable Summits - New Zealand 2016! » to “promote and maintain access and conservation of are investing in the protection and better access to human waste management, but also included solutions for hiking and climbing areas in Peru.” As a first task, Acceso Latin America’s mountains. Let’s enjoy it! » energy, capacity management, leadership/decision making, PanAm and Acceso Peru are jointly negotiating to improve and working with local people whose economic livelihood is access to Huascaran National Park and the conservation based on recreation. A special evening program “The Everest of the Huayhuash Range, currently threatened by mining Knot” was held with a panel of climbers, guides and leaders companies. from Nepal who discussed coping with rapid change. Kika Bradford, These workshops are designed to provide a fundamental Executive Director, A Petzl Foundation trustee, Blaise Agresti, who is a moun- understanding of the issues, enhance the activists’ skill set, Acceso PanAm tain gendarme and guide in the French Alps, attended the and improve their organizational structure. These meetings Sustainable Summits conference. He gave a talk about have proven to be the motivational fuel for activists and the issues caused by the growing number of climbers on are the best channels to keep the organizations moving the normal route of the Mont Blanc. In his talk, he focused forward. on the dangers of the Goûter couloir, using research data taken from the risk study funded by the Petzl Foundation.

Roger Robinson and Ellen Lapham, Project partner: American Alpine Club / co-chairs, Sustainable Summits www.americanalpineclub.org/p/sustainable_summits Project partner: Acceso PanAm / www.accesopanam.com Budget: € 6,700 in 2014 Budget: € 7,300 in 2014, € 33,800 since 2009

26 UNITED STATES LATIN AMERICA 27 Other projets supported in 2014

Protecting moutain guide 3rd Mountain Citizen Meetings families Directed by Mountain Coordination, The French association "Moun- the Mountain Citizen Meetings aim to tain Guide Families" has designed raise awareness by asking what the a document to inform mountain future model of mountain develop- professionals on their social security ment should look like. and their insurance. Mountain guide families often face serious adminis- In 2014, three meetings were held. trative difficulties in case of accident In Chamonix, the debate focused or death of a professional in the exer- on the Mont Blanc massif develop- cise of his/her profession. ment, in connection with the upco- ming opening of the tourist resort This booklet provides valuable tips of Helbronner, in Italy. In Grenoble, helping professionals to set up a file mountaineers discussed the evolu- including all necessary documents in tion of their sporting activities faced case the worst should occur. "The with climate change such as glacier © Christian Martelet subject is difficult because it raises retreat.

© Stéphane Darrius questions about situations that one During the International Festival wishes never to experience, says Young researchers rewarded of Mountain Trades in Chambery, Among the qualified students, Sanabl Dwid is ready to discover her country! Anne Noiret, attorney and author. mountain professionals, such as Our goal is to help the guides and For the second year, the University of the Alps brought together researchers guides or refuge keepers, reflected Training for hiking in the West Bank their families to anticipate difficult and academics in Megève, to debate in public about the Alpine identity. The on the evolution of their professions situations and help them to manage University of the Alps' goal is to provide the keys to understanding the Alpine relative to the economic and climate In April 2014, a training course for mountain trek leaders was organized by the them." ecosystems by offering a three day workshop for exchange of ideas and sharing crises, as well as the new expecta- Palestinian Association for Development of Mountain Sports. Supervised by of knowledge about the mountains. tions of customers. instructors from the French Alpine Club, eleven students (five women and six men), The booklet is available in French on from the village of Battir (near Bethlehem), Hebron and Ramallah, were trained in www.afgm.fr. One objective of this meeting is to offer ten young researchers the opportunity To download the Resolutions (in French): group supervision and navigation. to present their work. Four of them have been awarded and received the prize www.appelpournosmontagnes.org/ of the Young Alpine Researcher, supported by the Petzl Foundation. rencontres-citoyennes For these young Palestinians facing a difficult daily life, the challenge was to redis- www.coordination-montagne.fr cover the natural resources and cultural heritage of their country. Aware of the For more information: www.alpesmagazine.com/universite-des-alpes natural and cultural potential offered by the West Bank, some of them hope to become tourist guides. A second workshop will take place in spring 2015 for further instruction to obtain the federal level hiking instructor. Is there any doping on Mont Blanc?

In summer 2013, a medical study was conducted in the Cosmiques and Study of glacial lakes in Nepal Gouter refuges on the normal route of Mont Blanc. The objective was The association Geohazards and to analyze the urine of some of the © Olivier Moret Man (GDH) investigates the risk mountaineers to learn about drugs of glacial lake ruptures in Nepal, which may be used to deal with the which could cause catastrophic effects of altitude. The siphons of two floods, threatening local popula- urinals had to be modified to take tions, hikers and mountaineers. In samples. 2014, they conducted a study of the Dudh Kunda lake. Every year in full The analyses were carried out by monsoon season, when the risk of the laboratory of the French Agency dam failure is the highest, hundreds for the Fight Against Doping and the of Nepalese pilgrims come to this laboratory of anti-doping of the Italian area. After three weeks of work, the Sports Medical Federation. team has established a risk map of this lake. This study reveals that the doping practices remain marginal among In addition to these studies, the climbers on Mont Blanc. However, members of GDH work closely with it states that the use of sleeping pills the Nepalese Ministry of Environ- is widespread, yet we do not know ment and universities in Kathmandu their full effects on mountaineers at to develop a project to inform and altitude. The detailed results will be During the summer of 2013, a study of mountaineer self-medication was

© GDH educate local populations exposed released in the fall of 2015. conducted in the Goûter refuge, on the normal route of Mont Blanc. to these natural hazard. The Dudh Kunda lake is located at 4,630 meters above sea level at the foot of Numbur, Nepal. 28 29 Other projets supported in 2014 Submit a project

Instructional videos for cavers The Petzl Foundation supports projects developed by non-profit organizations which take place in mountains or in any other vertical environment, are related to outdoor sport activities such as Within the French Federation of Speleology, the French School of climbing and mountaineering, or are related to the professional work-at-height sector such as tree Speleology (EFS) and the Group care, technical rescue and difficult access. of Technical Studies continuously improve the content of training and risk management.

The EFS has chosen to use video as a teaching aid for training and Internet as a means of dissemina- ting knowledge. A first film on rope descent techniques is already online, and others are being finalized.

For the second phase, tests are carried out to measure the forces generated on anchors and cavers during normal progression, falls or when anchorage points fail. To get as close as possible to reality, these tests were conducted with volunteer cavers in highly supervised safety conditions.

The Petzl Foundation has provided the equipment, technical and human resources to execute these tests. As a first step, the data will be interpreted and the results will be provided to EFS graduate executives. All testing phases will be filmed and video montages will help in making

teaching aids for training at the EFS. Thomas / EnQuête d'Arbres © Jérémie The first videos will be released late 2015. Research in the Cameroonian canopy. A project founded by the Petzl Foundation Watch the video "Rope descent": Projects must fall into one of the three mission categories of the in 2013, with EnQuête d'Arbres association. http://efs.ffspeleo.fr/documentation/ Petzl Foundation: video/descente-sur-corde > accident prevention and risk management training > preservation of the environment > scientific research

© Gerard Cazes © Gerard In addition to funding, the Petzl Foundation can give you practical assistance throughout your project. Tests to quantify the forces generated on anchors and cavers have been made in the Petzl training center. How to submit your project:

Please complete the online application form, after checking that your The Petzl Foundation does not project corresponds to our selection criteria. Return your completed finance: application form to: [email protected]. For applicants in North and South America, please CC [email protected]. - Projects proposed by private indivi- Assess the biodiversity of rocky environments duals or profit-making organizations.

During the summer of 2014, the Bird Protection League (LPO), an association Our selection process: - Requests from public authorities which preserves nature, invited climbers to participate in a census of the fauna or state delegations, except in the and flora of the cliff. The goal is to better understand the rocky environments of After an initial review, a project shortlist is drawn up and presented to the field of research. the Reserve of Partias in the French Alps, to better protect them. Petzl Foundation Board, who decides which projects will receive funding. The Board meets on a monthly basis. - Profit-oriented, promotional or The Petzl Foundation is committed to assist the LPO in protecting this mountain advertising projects. valley in which there are many outdoor activities: hiking, skiing, climbing, etc. The

LPO also initiated a dialogue with the climbers to better understand their activities © Collection Réserve Patrtias and thus to achieve regulatory proposals that are fair and accepted by all. Present your project: www. petzl-foundation.org. See Tab "Submit a project" 30 31 Key figures

YEAR 2014 PROJECTS SUPPORTED IN 2014

After the first operating cycle from 2005 to 2010, then from 2011 to 2013, the Petzl Foundation was extended for an In 2014, 47 projects were supported, including 17 which received over € 5,000 each. additional five-year cycle (2014-2018), testifying to the commitment of the Petzl group and its foundation to the vertical community. 50 000 €

1 45 000 € 2 1 - Sustainable Summits conference Fund utilization in 2014: € 405,869 2 - The Conservation Alliance 3 40 000 € 3 - Acceso PanAm 4 4 - Aigle refuge 35 000 € 5 Projects: 5 - Lost World 6 General administration: 30 000 € 6 - Inveneo € 305,991 7 € 99,878 7 - Alpine Near Miss Survey 8 25 000 € 8 - Access Fund 9 9 - Famille de Guides Association 20 000 € 10 10 - Mountain training with UIAA 11 25 % 15 000 € 11 - Date palm workers in Algeria 12 12 - Medical study with FFCAM 10 000 € 13 13 - University of the Alps 14 14 - Mountain accidents study 5 000 € 15 15 - Study of glacial lakes in Nepal !" !" 16 #" 0 #" € 16 - Multiple small projets 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 $" 17 - Coordination Montagne %"

75 % 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014

Income in € 451 114 311 910 398 239 283 357 337 542 401 433 351 917 351 232 352 165 Split

Project contributions 43 420 138 182 144 528 138 203 89 729 133 005 174 633 195 882 197 756 49 %

Other projects costs 38 608 110 363 147 227 84 836 63 781 37 646 42 926 47 382 74 438 18 %

Taxes 569 588 886 794 677 401 412 419 505 0 % Project grant distribution in 2014: € 305,991 Salaries 64 655 120 599 166 506 177 031 182 311 112 463 111 223 112 963 131 530 33 % Uses Amortization 1 647 3 599 6 930 3 304 2 400 6 117 5 600 2 462 1 640 0 % Other projects: Risk prevention and education: € 33,070 € 115,135 Profit / loss 0 28 0 143 55 976 3 0 0 0 %

11 % Total uses 148 899 373 359 466 077 404 311 338 953 290 608 334 796 359 108 405 869

Net profit 302 215 - 61 449 - 67 838 - 120 954 - 1 411 110 825 17 121 - 7 876 - 53 704

Research: 38 %

€ 81,556 !" !" 2006 / 2014 Split General section Projects #" 26 % #" $" %" Project contributions 1 255 338 40 % 565 1 254 773

Other projects costs 647 207 21 % 371 658 275 549

Taxes 5 251 0 % 5 251

Salaries 1 179 281 38 % 523 311 655 970 25 % Amortization 33 699 1 % 33 699 Environment: Split of uses € 76,230 Profit / loss 1 205 0 % 1 205

Total uses 3 121 981 935 689 2 186 292

The Petzl Foundation’s accounts are administered by the Petzl Group’s accounting department. Since 2006, the foundation has created, supported and funded more than 100 public interest projects throughout the world, The accounts are audited annually by CCI CONSEILS in Lyon. representing a contribution of more than 3.1 million euros, of which € 2,186,000 have been spent directly on project grants. 32 33 In the words of the foundation trustees

The Petzl Foundation is an independent, legal entity controlled by a board of trustees. Seven qualified experts and five Petzl employees provide direction for the Foundations strategic choices.

EXTERNAL MEMBERS INTERNAL MEMBERS

Blaise Agresti, gendarme and mountain « The foundation has helped to deepen my understanding of the Chris Blakeley, is originally from northern « Supporting some of the most inspired projects worldwide is guide in Chamonix, is responsible for mountains, connecting worlds and taking action. With each project, England and manages the development exciting, not only to see the benefits to the ventures themselves CNISAG mountain gendarme training. I become more aware of the urgent necessity to undertake joint of the Petzl Solutions network and also but more so to the communities involved. The variety and quality action, which crosses our divisions and boundaries. We owe it to practical experimentation within the of projects presented to the Petzl Foundation always impresses our children that these mountains remain alive and open to all. » V.axess building. me - and the commitment of their creators. »

« Passionate about the mountains, sensitive to the environ- Simone Allibert, chairman of Allibert « For me, beyond the Petzl company, the contribution from Hervé Bodeau manages multimedia ment and its fragile ecosystems, I am delighted to be part of Voyages, involved in promoting our foundation to projects of general interest around safety publications and corporate communi- the Petzl Foundation, which is totally in line with my values. » sustainable development though and development of vertical activities is really meaningful. » cations within the Petzl group. responsible tourism.

Bernard Amy, cognitive science « Why did I agree to join the Petzl Foundation team? Peter Popall, a German national, is the « Access that seemed impossible has always been researcher, one of the founders of First, because it is a great way to defend mountains and Petzl group’s current vice president, having my favorite challenge. Today, sharing this with the association Mountain Wilderness mountaineers, and secondly, because it is a bridge between held various operational positions within the communities around the world is my motivation. » France, mountaineer, traveler and writer. the world of industry and the world of mountaineering. » group. He is the soul of our commitment to the vertical world.

« Working with the Petzl Foundation gives me the opportunity Roody Rasmussen has worked for Petzl « It is a joy and an honor to be part of the Petzl team through the Éric de Kermel, Managing Director of to team with other like-minded organizations to bring since 1988. Roody served as president and Foundation. Behind the Petzl brand, there is a sense of commit- Bayard Nature et Territoires, and Vice forth creative projects that benefit the environment, and CEO of Petzl America from 1999 to 2011. ment to a renewed relationship between man and nature and the Chairman of the UICN. A man of convic- improve techniques and enhance safety for the greater He is very active in the field of corporate mountain universe, which is close to my heart.» tion and commitment to man and nature. climbing community. » philanthropy and is currently the Foundation’s project director for the Americas.

François Lemarchand, founder « When I created the Nature et Découvertes Foundation, 20 chairman of Nature & Découvertes, a years ago, I wanted all the people who work in the company to long-standing supporter of conserva- share beliefs beyond simply doing a good job. The Founda- tion actions via his two foundations. tion has become one of the key sources of pride for all of our PRESIDENT GENERAL SECRETARY teams. I hope the Petzl Foundation will follow the same path! »

« I was very honored when I was asked to join the Foundation Luc Moreau freelance glaciologist, Paul Petzl has committed his company Olivier Moret was appointed team. Suggesting the study of waterfall ice was logical. Today, Doctor of Alpine Geography, researcher to serve all vertical communities. secretary general in March 2014. this study helps me during my course at ENSA, to provide and author of several documentaries For 40 years, implementing his answers to frequently asked questions from aspiring guides.» and films about glaciers. employees’ innovative ideas has Contact: guided his choices. [email protected]

Marc Séraphin, trek leader and « The Foundation is a wonderful facilitator of communication. rope access technician. For instance, it has enabled me to enter the dangerous world PROJECT MANAGER of palm tree farming and help those people work more safely. »

Annual report production: Stéphane Lozac'hmeur joined the foundation in October 2007. Authors: Stéphane Lozac'hmeur / Olivier Moret / Roody Rasmussen English translation: Stéphane Lozac'hmeur, in cooperation with Polly Brown Contact: Proofreader: Roody Rasmussen [email protected] Layout: Stéphane Lozac'hmeur 34 35 © Thomas Vialletet "I neverthoughtthatonedayIcouldclimbanicewall!"Attheendof2014,agroup ofyoungpeoplefrom disadvantaged neighbourhoods ofMarseillespentaweekinrefuge intheHautes-Alpes,France,thanksto82-4000association. please contactRoodyRasmussen: For NorthandSouthAmerica, [email protected] www.petzl-fondation.org [email protected] + 33(0)456581998 PETZL FOUNDATION 38920 Crolles ZI deCrolles Cidex 105A France