1 The Best of

In this chapter, you’ll find our carefully compiled lists of the best that Germany has to offer, from castles and cathedrals to spas, restaurants, and sightseeing— and nearly everything else you’ll want to see and do.

1 THE BEST TRAVEL

• Exploring the New Berlin: Anyone an armada of tugboats, barges, and who lived through the fear of the Cold cruise ships still plies the muddy waters War can’t help but shudder at the beside riverbanks lined with the historic memory of the Berlin Wall. Since reuni- majesty (and sometimes the industrial fication, civic planners, with almost might) of central Europe. Cruises begin manic enthusiasm, have demolished and end at large cities of historic interest large sections of what once stood as a and last anywhere from 6 hours to 7 scar across the face of a defeated nation. days. See “A Cruise on the Elbe” in chap- The architectural changes and urban ter 6, “Cruising the ” in chapter developments that constantly update 7, and “Cruising the Mythically Rich the cityscape around Berlin’s Friedrich- Rivers of Germany” in chapter 15. strasse and Potsdamer Platz can be • Boating on the Königssee: A romantic confusing. But regardless of which poet would praise this lake, near Ber- renewal program is churning up rubble chtesgaden in , for the forest- at the time of your visit, a pilgrimage covered mountains that surround its through what used to be the most bit- cold, deep, dark waters. The baroque terly contested urban turf in Europe chapels and fairy-tale hamlets on its can’t help but provoke powerful emo- shores supplement its natural grandeur. tions. See chapter 5. The boat you ride will be powered by • Spending a Midsummer’s Night in a very quiet electric motors, so you can Biergarten: When the temperature hear the extraordinary echoes that rises, head for the unpretentious cheer bounce off the rock faces. See p. 348. of the nearest Biergarten (everybody in • Hiking in the Bavarian Alps: In sum- Germany seems to have a favorite, so mer, Alpine hiking is a major attraction we’re not even going to try to name the in Germany. Hikers can observe a vari- “best”). These watering holes, which ety of wildlife, often including endan- often featureCOPYRIGHTED trellises, climbing vines, gered MATERIAL species. Two of the best areas are Chinese lanterns, and arbors, offer low- the 1,240m (4,070-ft.) Eckbauer peak, cost fun on soft summer nights. You on the southern fringe of Partenkirchen, can order platters of hearty food with and the Berchtesgaden National Park, your beer or bring your own picnic. bordering the Austrian province of Sal- • Cruising the Elbe, the Danube, and zburg. See chapter 10. the Rhine: This trio of rivers, along with • Ascending the Zugspitze: If the gentle their tributaries, dominated German inclines of the Harz Mountains or the commerce for hundreds of years. Today, Thuringian forests aren’t dramatic

004_470732-ch01.indd4_470732-ch01.indd 1 110/28/090/28/09 1:221:22 PMPM 2 enough for you, ride the cable car from and armies of workers gather buckets of Garmisch-Partenkirchen to the top of grapes from rows of carefully pruned Germany’s tallest mountain, 2,960m vines. Most of the medieval villages and (9,700 ft.) above sea level. The view historic castles scattered between from the top is suitably panoramic, and Koblenz and Trier are associated with you’ll find an appealing aura of Ger- estates where you can sample the wines. man-ness that comes from the many See chapters 15 and 16. climbers and trekkers who fan out • Touring the Fairy-Tale Road (Märch- across the hiking trails. See p. 366. enstrasse): This is one of the newer • Experiencing a German Spa: In Ger- marketing ideas of the German tourist many, the question isn’t whether to visit authorities, but considering its appeal, a spa, but rather which spa to visit. you’ll wonder why they didn’t think of Each resort has its own virtues and his- it earlier. From the town of Hanau (a torical associations and can supply a list 30-min. drive northeast of Frankfurt), of the health benefits associated with its the route zigzags northward along the awful-tasting waters. Regardless of your Weser River for about 600km (370 choice, you’ll emerge from your treat- miles), through some of Germany’s ment with a more relaxed attitude and most evocative folkloric architecture, a greater appreciation of German effi- ending in Bremen. Scores of well- THE BEST OF GERMANY OF BEST THE ciency and sensuality. The most famous marked detours pepper the way. 1 spas are in Baden-Baden. See p. 420. Required reading for the trip is a collec- • Motoring along the : The tion of the fairy tales of the Brothers Neckar River meanders through about Grimm and the Nibelungen legends. 80km (50 miles) of some of Germany’s Don’t overlook the psychological impli- most famous vineyards. But the real cations of Goldilocks, the Big Bad appeal of the winding road along the Wolf, and the Pied Piper of Hameln. water is the medieval castles scattered See chapters 4 and 17. along the way. Highlights en route • Lounging on the Island of Sylt: Don’t include , Neckarsteinach, expect a lush or verdant island—the

THE BEST MUSEUMS BEST THE , , Zwingenberg, climate is temperamental, the setting is and Burg Hornberg. Don’t forget to savage, the winds blow cold from the stop en route for samplings of the local north even in summer, and the grasses wines. See chapter 13. that manage to survive in the sandy • Spending Harvest Time in the Ger- dunes are as weathered and sturdy as man Vineyards: Springtime in Ger- the soldiers in a Prussian regiment. many brings the promise of bounty to Why is it wonderful? Here, the no- the legendary vineyards of the Rhine nonsense residents of north Germany and Mosel valleys, but the autumn har- can preen, flutter, and show off to each vest is truly the time to visit. Between other, far from the strictures of their late August and mid-October, the workplaces and the hardworking grind banks of the rivers turn gold and russet, of their everyday lives. See p. 653.

2 THE BEST MUSEUMS

Financial prosperity, artistic flair, and aca- • Bode Museum, Berlin: One of the demic curiosity have helped the Germans greatest museums of Germany, the develop some of the finest museums any- Bode reopened in 2008 to great acclaim. where. Its Egyptian Museum remains among

004_470732-ch01.indd4_470732-ch01.indd 2 110/28/090/28/09 1:221:22 PMPM the greatest, along with its collection of • Alte Pinakothek, Munich: This mas- 3 late ancient and Byzantine art and its sive and symmetrical building is one of Burial Cult Room stuffed with prehis- the most visible in Munich, with a toric coffins, mummies, and funereal wraparound garden where urbanites objects, some showing great craftsman- like to walk during lunch hour. Inside is ship. See p. 124. a staggering assortment of important • Gemäldegalerie, Berlin: This is one of paintings from every era, scattered over Europe’s leading art museums, with a two sprawling floors of dignified splen- celebrated collection of works from the dor. See p. 315. 13th to the 18th centuries. The caval- • Dachau Concentration Camp Memo-

cade of major European masters ranges rial Site, Dachau, near Munich: Hein- THE BEST OF GERMANY from Botticelli and Bruegel to Vermeer rich Himmler first organized Dachau as and Velázquez. Divided during the a concentration camp for enemies of Cold War, the collection has been the Reich in 1933. An escaped inmate, reunited in one home since 1998. The Joseph Rovan, described it as “impla- lighting and displays are better than cable, perverted, an organization that ever. See p. 206. was totally murderous, a marvelous • Pergamon Museum, Berlin: Built in machine for the debasement and dehu- 1930 on an island in the Spree, this manizing of man.” Today, it’s one of the museum contains entirely reconstructed most poignant museums in the world. temples from ancient Assyria, Greece, See p. 339. 1 Rome, and Sumer. Don’t miss the • Lenbachhaus, Munich: Housed in the

sprawling exhibitions devoted to the former villa of portrait painter Franz THE BEST MUSEUMS ancient art of the Islamic world and the von Lenbach, this museum has a stun- Far East. See p. 125. ning and internationally renowned col- • Zwinger, Dresden: A vast rectangular lection of modern art, including the esplanade flanked with pavilions, heroic Blaue Reiter (Blue Rider) period, best statues, formal gardens, and galleries, represented by Kandinsky. It also has a this museum was designed for August rich collection of Gothic artwork. See the Strong (elector of and king of p. 319. Poland), by his favorite architect, Pöp- • Gutenberg Museum, : This pelmann (1662–1736). The destruction museum is one of the most comprehen- of the Zwinger (in the final days of sive tributes to printing and publishing World War II), one of Dresden’s most anywhere in the world. The bulky beautiful buildings, was a great loss, presses, on which Johannes Gutenberg though its postwar reconstruction was a used movable type (42 lines per page), triumph for the East German govern- and two of the earliest Bibles ever ment. Among the treasures amassed printed are the primary displays here. inside are paintings, 18th-century Dres- There’s also a historical rundown on the den porcelain, and an ornamental col- science and technologies that have lection of antique weapons. See p. 206. dominated the printing industry ever • Deutsches Museum, Munich: Since since. See p. 504. 1925, this museum has been one of the • Museum Ludwig, Cologne: This is the most important showcases of science home of one of the world’s largest col- and technology in the world. Occupy- lections of the works of Pablo Picasso, ing an island in the Isar River, it features equaled only by the Picasso museums of many hands-on and historical exhibits. Barcelona and Paris. The museum’s col- See p. 318. lection was beefed up when Irene Lud- wig, widow of the late German art

004_470732-ch01.indd4_470732-ch01.indd 3 110/28/090/28/09 1:221:22 PMPM 4 patron Peter Ludwig, donated 774 • Kunsthalle, Hamburg: The leading art works of Picasso to the museum. See museum in northern Germany, the p. 531. Kunsthalle is one of the most important • Wallraf-Richartz Museum/Founda- in Europe, with some 3,000 paintings tion Corboud, Cologne: The oldest in its treasure-trove, along with some museum in Cologne presents one of 400 . Some of its rare trea- Germany’s grandest collections of art, sures date from the 14th century, covering the 14th to the 19th centuries. including works by Bertram, the lead- The collection of Gothic works alone is ing German master of the time. One one of the finest in Europe, and the gal- section of the gallery also displays mod- leries are a virtual encyclopedia of art, ern works, including pieces by such from Flemish old masters to the French artists as Andy Warhol, Joseph Beuys, Impressionists. See p. 532. and Picasso. See p. 629.

3 THE BEST CASTLES & PALACES

During the , Germany was of Germany, and a place of refuge for divided into many intensely competitive Martin Luther, who completed his THE BEST OF GERMANY OF BEST THE feudal states and principalities. This unsta- translation of the Bible within its mas- 1 ble atmosphere encouraged the construc- sive walls. Wagner used it as inspiration tion of fortified castles. As hostilities died for the setting of Tannhäuser, and down, architects began to design for com- Johann Sebastian Bach and Goethe fort, style, and prestige, adding large win- both visited. Today, from its position on dows, gilded stucco and plaster, frescoes, a rocky hilltop, it’s a regional museum. and formal gardens. As a result, Germany See p. 182. is full of all kinds and styles of Burg • Residenz, Würzburg: Built between and Schloss (various names for castles and 1720 and 1744 as the official residence palaces). of the powerful bishops of Würzburg, • Sans Souci Palace, Potsdam: Friedrich this is one of the most massive baroque the Great’s retreat, where he came to palaces in Germany. It combines a read, listen to music, and generally Hofkirche (chapel) with gardens, a gal- renew his allegiance to the principles of lery of paintings, frescoes by Tiepolo, THE BEST CASTLES & PALACES & CASTLES BEST THE the Enlightenment, is Germany’s most and enough decoration to satisfy the successful blend of landscape and archi- most demanding taste for ornamenta- tecture. The more than 120 hectares tion. Also within its showrooms are a (297 acres) of intricately landscaped worthy collection of ancient Greek and gardens have enough pavilions, foun- Roman artifacts and valuable paintings tains, orangeries, and heroic statues to from the 14th to the 19th centuries. See keep a visitor intrigued for days. The p. 255. palace itself is an architectural high- • Neuschwanstein, near Füssen: When light, approached by a terraced staircase the creators of California’s Disneyland of sublime beauty. See p. 167. needed an inspiration for their fairy-tale • Schloss Wartburg, Eisenach: Built castle, this is the model they picked. between the 11th and 16th centuries, Neuschwanstein is the most lavishly this was the headquarters of the Land- romantic (and impractical) castle in the graves of Thuringia, a center of patron- German-speaking world. A 19th-cen- age for the Minnesinger (troubadours) tury theatrical set designer drew it up in

004_470732-ch01.indd4_470732-ch01.indd 4 110/28/090/28/09 1:221:22 PMPM a neofeudal style. The man who ordered • Altes Schloss, Meersburg: Legend has 5 its construction was (who else?) “Mad” it that this palace’s cornerstone was laid King Ludwig II of Bavaria. See p. 284. in 628 by Dagobert, king of the Franks. • Hohenschwangau Castle, near Füssen: The palace remained a Catholic strong- It was completed in 1836 and built on hold even during the Protestant Refor- the ruins of a 12th-century fortress. Its mation, housing bishops who patron was the youthful prince regent, appreciated its 3m-thick (10-ft.) walls Maximilian II of Bavaria, who used it to as a bulwark against the rising tempest indulge his taste for “troubadour around them. In the early 1800s, when romanticism” and the life of the English its owners threatened to tear the palace

country manor. See p. 284. down, a German Romantic, Baron THE BEST OF GERMANY • Schloss Nymphenburg, Munich: It was Joseph von Lassberg, bought it and originally conceived and constructed transformed it into a refuge for writers, between 1664 and 1674 as an Italian- poets, and painters. Although it remains inspired summer home for the Bavarian mostly a private residence, you can visit monarchs. Subsequent Bavarian kings many parts of the palace. See p. 219. added on to its structure until around • Heidelberg Castle, Heidelberg: This 1780, by which time the building and its castle originated as a Gothic-Renais- lavish park bore a close resemblance to sance masterpiece in the 1500s and was the French palace at Versailles. A high- massively expanded as rival rulers com- light of the interior is the green, gold, peted for control of the Rhineland. 1 and white banqueting hall, with frescoes After the French sacked and burned the

and ornate stucco that are among the town and the castle in 1689, it never THE BEST CATHEDRALS most memorable in Bavaria. See p. 322. regained its original glory. Today, the • Schloss Linderhof, near Oberammer- ruins brood in dignified severity from a gau: This palace was built in the 1870s position on a rocky hilltop high above as a teenage indulgence by Ludwig II. the student revelry and taverns of the Its architects created a whimsically folkloric city below. See p. 432. eclectic fantasy, inspired by Italian • Burg Eltz, Moselkern, near Cochem: baroque architecture. In the surround- Its multiple turrets and towers, which ing park, Moorish pavilions and Medi- rise amid a thick forest near the Mosel terranean cascades appear against River, evoke the chivalry and poetry of Alpine vistas in combinations that are the Middle Ages. This is one of the as startling as they are charming. See best-preserved medieval castles in Ger- p. 371. many. See p. 549.

4 THE BEST CATHEDRALS

• Kaiserdom (Imperial Cathedral), sense of the (anonymous) architect’s Speyer: Partly because of their age, aesthetic links with the traditions of Romanesque churches are the most ancient Rome. See p. 224. impressive symbols of early medieval • Dom St. Peter, Worms: This church is Germany. This massive church, from a grand example of High Romanesque 1030, has four bell towers, a corner- style, its oldest section dating from stone laid by one of Germany’s earliest 1132. The Diet of Worms, held here in kings, Konrad II, and an undeniable 1521, condemned the beliefs of the

004_470732-ch01.indd4_470732-ch01.indd 5 110/28/090/28/09 1:221:22 PMPM 6 young Martin Luther and banished him towers are instantly recognizable from to the far boundaries of the Holy miles away. See p. 530. Roman Empire. See p. 239. • Dom (Cathedral), Aachen: Its size and • Kölner Dom, Cologne: Based on the stonework dating from 1414 are French Gothic models in Paris and deeply impressive, but even more so is Amiens, this cathedral was envisioned as the cathedral’s association with the ear- one of the largest religious buildings in liest of German emperors, Char- Christendom. It required 600 years to lemagne. He was crowned in an older finish—work stopped for about 300 building on this site in a.d. 800. The years (1560–1842), until the neo-Gothic cathedral’s treasury contains gem- fervor of the Romantic age fueled its encrusted Christian artifacts from the completion. In 1880, it was inaugurated 10th century, with heft and barbaric with appropriate pomp and circum- glitter that evoke pre-Christian Ger- stance in the presence of the German mania. See p. 569. kaiser. Today, its vast russet-colored bulk

5 THE MOST CHARMING SMALL VILLAGES

THE BEST OF GERMANY OF BEST THE • Quedlinburg: Spared in part from the medieval walled city. Rothenburg exists 1 ravages of World War II, this town in in a time capsule, though 40% of the Harz mountains still evokes the the town was destroyed during World Middle Ages with its 1,600 half-tim- War II. Luckily, locals quickly rebuilt bered buildings, more than any other their Altstadt in its former style to town in the country. Named a reclaim their glorious architectural past. UNESCO World Heritage Site, See p. 263. Quedlinburg is a gem of yesterday and • If you have time for a second stop along was an imperial residence for 2 centu- the Romantic Road, try Dinkelsbühl. ries. Wander the cobblestone streets of Though not as grand as the more cele- the Altstadt (Old Town) for a journey brated Rothenburg, it has far fewer back in time. See p. 194. tourists and therefore retains more old- • Meissen: Some 25km (16 miles) north time charm. See p. 269. of Dresden, this is a romantic little • Mittenwald: This town has long been town built along the banks of the River celebrated as the most beautiful in the Elbe. It’s celebrated for its porcelain, Bavarian Alps. Its magnificently deco- which carries a trademark of two rated houses have painted facades and

THE MOST CHARMING SMALL VILLAGES SMALL CHARMING MOST THE crossed blue swords and is valued by ornately carved gables. In the mid–17th collectors the world over. Even without century, it was known as “the Village of its porcelain factory, the town merits a a Thousand Violins” because of the visit for its quiet charm, its old build- stringed instruments made here. See ings, and its 15th-century castle. See p. 358. p. 212. • Lindau: Dating from the 9th century, • Rothenburg: If you have time for only this former free imperial town of the one stop along the Romantic Road, Holy Roman Empire is like a fantasy of make it Rothenburg ob der Tauber (on what a charming Bavarian lakeside vil- the Tauber River), which may be your lage should look like, if only in the only chance in life to see a still-intact movies. But this garden “city,” under

004_470732-ch01.indd4_470732-ch01.indd 6 110/28/090/28/09 1:221:22 PMPM landmark protection, is for real. Lindau • Cochem: If you’re seeking an idyllic 7 is enveloped by aquamarine waters, and medieval riverside town during your one part of it is known as the Garten- “grape tour” of the Mosel River valley, stadt because of its luxuriant flowers make it Cochem, famous for its tower- and shrubs. See p. 373. ing castle, dating from 1027. On the • Rüdesheim: The Rhine Valley’s most left bank of the Mosel, Cochem lies in popular wine town is set along the edge a picture-postcard setting of vineyards. of the mighty river. Rüdesheim is known Little inns serving a regional cuisine for its half-timbered buildings and its along with plenty of Mosel wine make Drosselgasse (Thrush Lane), a narrow Cochem a highly desirable overnight

cobblestone lane stretching for 180m stop and a nice alternative to the more THE BEST OF GERMANY (600 ft.) and lined with wine taverns and commercial centers found along the cozy restaurants. See p. 506. nearby Rhine. See p. 547.

6 THE BEST DRIVING TOURS

The appeal of the open road is a promi- • Alpine Road: Scenic majesty and archi- nent part of German culture. Some of the tectural charm combine for an unfor- best drives include: gettable experience on this 480km • The Romantic Road: This well-trav- (300-mile) road through the foothills of 1 eled route, which stretches between the the Bavarian Alps. See “Exploring the Main River and the beginning of the Region by Car” on p. 343. THE BEST WALKS Bavarian Alps, is dotted with lovely • Upper Black Forest: Fairy tales always medieval towns. See chapter 8. seem more believable when you’re in • The Fairy-Tale Road: The colorful the Black Forest, and the twisting sec- characters of the Brothers Grimm live ondary roads that connect Freiburg again along this 595km (369-mile) with Lake Titisee pass through lots of stretch, beginning in the little town of charming scenery and architecture. See Hanau and stretching all the way north the box “An Excursion to the Upper to Bremen. This is one of the great Black Forest,” on p. 400. motor trips of Germany for those who • Mosel Valley: The road along this Rhine thrilled to those nursery room favorites. tributary passes by some of the country’s See “The Fairy-Tale Road” in chapter 4 most famous vineyards. At least a half- for an abbreviated route. For the com- dozen of the cities en route are worth plete route, see chapter 17. visiting as well. See chapter 16.

7 THE BEST WALKS

• The Royal Castle Walk: For one of the an amazing view of “Mad” King Lud- grandest panoramas in all of the Alps wig’s fantasy castle. See “Neuschwanstein (in any country), hike up to the Marien- & Hohenschwangau” in chapter 8. brücke, the bridge that spans the Pöllat • Partnachklamm: One of the most dra- Gorge behind Neuschwanstein Castle. matic walks in all of the Bavarian Alps From there, if you’re up to it, you can starts from the great winter sports resort continue uphill for about an hour for of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. A signposted

004_470732-ch01.indd4_470732-ch01.indd 7 110/28/090/28/09 1:221:22 PMPM 8 trail leads to the dramatic Partnach- wonders still thrive in this mild climate. klamm Gorge. Carved from solid rock, You’ll hardly believe you’re in Germany. the route passes two panoramic bottle- See p. 386. necks amid the thunder of falling water • Cochem: Reichsburg Cochem and clouds of spray. See “Hiking in the (Cochem Castle), which towers over Bavarian Alps” in chapter 10. the little town of Cochem, can be • Mainau Island: A walk across the foot- reached on foot in about 15 minutes bridge to Mainau, in Lake Constance, from the town’s Marktplatz, or market is like a visit to a tropical country. square. Although hardly an Alpine Mainau is filled with exotic plants col- climb, this walk is one of the most lected by the Baden princes and mem- rewarding you’ll find in Germany, with bers of the Royal House of . panoramas in all directions. See p. 547. Tropical brushwood and other botanical

8 THE BEST BIKING

• Munich by Bike: You see so many the source of the Neckar, beginning in locals riding bikes that you might think Villingen-Schwenningen and going all THE BEST OF GERMANY OF BEST THE Munich is the biking capital of Ger- the way to the confluence of the Rhine 1 many. If you’d like to join the fun, pick at Mannheim. Instead of going the up a copy of the pamphlet Rad-Touren entire way, many visitors prefer to pick für unsere Gäste (Bike-Riding for Our up a bicycle in Heidelberg and cycle Guests) at the tourist office. It outlines along the riverbanks until they find a itineraries for touring Munich by bike. good spot for a picnic. See “Exploring See p. 328. on Two Wheels” on p. 426. • Lake Constance: Rent a bike at the • Lüneburg Heath: This wild heath in

THE BEST SPAS BEST THE train station in the former imperial northern Germany is one of the coun- town of Lindau and set out in any try’s major natural attractions. (Some of direction to enjoy the views of this Germany’s greatest poets have waxed beautiful lake. The Lindau tourist office rhapsodic about this shrub-covered will provide a map and suggestions for land.) Rent a bike, pick up a map at the the best routes to follow. See p. 377. Lüneburg tourist office, and set out on • The Neckar Valley Cycle Path: This your adventure. See “The Lüneburg signposted path allows you to follow Heath” on p. 601.

9 THE BEST SPAS

• Bad Reichenhall: Many spa lovers walk away. See “Bad Reichenhall” in head for this remote corner of Bavaria chapter 10. to “take the waters.” Europe’s largest • Baden-Baden: There’s no better spa in saline source was first tapped in pre- all of Germany, and certainly none Christian times and the place has a more fashionable or famous. Baden- definite 19th-century aura. And though Baden is also the site of the country’s some of the hotels in the town are most celebrated casino. The spa’s been better than others, all have equal access going strong since the leisure class of to the spa and lie about a 5-minute the 19th century discovered its healing

004_470732-ch01.indd4_470732-ch01.indd 8 110/28/090/28/09 1:221:22 PMPM waters, although the Roman legions of • Bad Homburg: Bad Homburg lies at 9 Emperor Caracalla had discovered the the foot of the Taunus Hills in a setting springs long before that. As at Bad of medieval castles and luxuriant for- Reichenhall, all hotels, no matter the ests. There are more than 31 fountains price range, have equal access to the in the town’s Kurpark. The Bad Hom- spa. See “Baden-Baden” in chapter 12. burg Palace was once the summer resi- • Wiesbaden: One of Germany’s oldest dence of Prussian kings. See “Side Trips cities, Wiesbaden attracted Roman from Frankfurt” in chapter 14. legions to its hot springs, and lures • Bad Nauheim: What do William Ran- today’s fashionable traveler as well. It’s dolph Hearst and Elvis Presley have in

not as chic as Baden-Baden, but Wies- common? Both stayed at Bad THE BEST OF GERMANY baden has one of Germany’s most ele- Nauheim—the newspaper czar by gant casinos and concert halls, along choice and Elvis on orders from the with two gourmet restaurants. In sum- U.S. Army. The warm carbonic-acid mer, the beer garden at the Kurhaus springs are used in the treatment of is one of the liveliest along the Rhine. heart and circulatory ailments and See “Side Trips from Frankfurt” in rheumatic diseases. See “Side Trips from chapter 14. Frankfurt” in chapter 14.

10 THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS 1

German efficiency and cleanliness are leg- hotels because of its age (over 300 THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS endary, so it’s not surprising that you can years), its name, its 50-year survival in choose from a great number of well-man- Germany’s eastern zone, and its associa- aged hotels. tions with such luminaries as Schiller, • Grand Hotel Esplanade, Berlin Liszt, and Goethe. Today, it’s a cost- (& 866/597-8341 in the U.S., or 030/ conscious treasure chest of German 254788255; www.esplanade.de): This history. See p. 170. strikingly contemporary hotel near sev- • Eisenhut, Rothenburg ob der Tauber eral foreign embassies is one of the most (& 09861/7050; www.eisenhut.com): prestigious in the German capital. With This hotel’s 16th-century walls and its collection of modern art, its spa- valuable collection of antiques enhance cious, cheerfully decorated rooms, and the appeal of the most authentic Renais- its first-class service, it is a prime address sance town in Germany. See p. 264. for the luxury-minded. See p. 95. • Kempinski Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten • The Regent, Berlin (& 888/201-1806 München, Munich (& 800/426-3135 in the U.S., or 030/20338; www.the in the U.S., or 089/21250; www. regentberlin.com): One of Germany’s kempinski-vierjahreszeiten.de): Munich’s great luxury hotels, the Regent is all most prestigious choice offers elegance about opulence, superb service, and and luxury. The wealthy and titled have comfort. It’s discreet, tasteful, reliable, checked in here for more than a and a brilliant addition to the roster of century, enjoying the ambience, the luxury leaders in Germany’s capital. See antiques, the style, and the grace. See p. 104. p. 295. • Hotel Elephant, Weimar (& 03643/ • Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas, 8020; www.starwoodhotels.com): This Munich (& 089/21200; www. is one of Germany’s most interesting bayerischerhof.de): This deluxe hotel

004_470732-ch01.indd4_470732-ch01.indd 9 110/28/090/28/09 1:221:22 PMPM 10 and 17th-century Bavarian palace many important Germans (including together form Munich’s answer to New Goethe) in its 400 years. It also contains York’s Waldorf-Astoria. This is the only one of the best traditional restaurants in hotel in Munich to provide serious town. See p. 508. competition for the Kempinski Hotel. • Fürstenhof Celle, Celle (& 05141/ See p. 294. 2010; www.fuerstenhof.de): This 17th- • Der Kleine Prinz, Baden-Baden century manor, enlarged with half-tim- (& 07221/346600; www.derkleine bered wings, stands out even in a town prinz.de): This hotel’s director once legendary for its medieval and Renais- helped manage the New York Hilton sance buildings. There’s a cozy bar in and the Waldorf-Astoria. Today, he and the medieval cellar and one of the best his wife run a century-old pair of neo- dining rooms in Lower Saxony. See baroque houses in the heart of Germa- p. 603. ny’s most elegant resort, Baden-Baden. • Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, Der Kleine Prinz is among the most Hamburg (& 888/425-8227 in the romantic of Germany’s many romantic U.S. and Canada, or 040/34943151; hotels. See p. 417. www.fairmont.com/hamburg): Its dig- • Krone Assmannshausen, Rüdesheim- nified interior is as opulent as its 19th- Assmannshausen (& 06722/4030; www. century facade. This hotel’s appeal is THE BEST OF GERMANY OF BEST THE hotel-krone.com): Sprawling along the correctly aristocratic, but it has a touch 1 banks of the Rhine in an oversize, of the saltwater zestiness that makes grangelike, gingerbread-laden fantasy, Hamburg a great city. See p. 621. this hotel has witnessed the arrival of

11 THE BEST SMALL INNS & HOTELS

• Art’otel, Berlin (& 030/884470; Garten, where buffed Munich lies out www.artotels.com): This hotel in the nude in the sun. The furnishings are in heart of Berlin is chic, discreet, and an old-fashioned Bavarian style, but the unique. The swirling action of the comfort level is first-rate. See p. 301. Ku’Damm lies right outside the door, • Parkhotel Atlantic Schlosshotel, Hei- but inside, the decor is soothing and delberg (& 06221/60420; www.park serene, the work of some of the Conti- hotel-atlantic.de): This 24-room inn is THE BEST SMALL INNS & HOTELS & INNS SMALL BEST THE nent’s top designers. See p. 201. on the wooded outskirts of Heidelberg, • Altstadt-Hotel, Passau (& 0851/3370; near the famous castle. Every room is www.altstadt-hotel.de): This inexpen- comfortable and convenient, and in the sive hotel stands at the convergence of afternoon you can go for long walks three rivers—the Danube, the Ilz, and along the woodland trails surrounding the Inn. But the hotel offers more than the property. See p. 429. river views—it’s comfortably and tradi- • Antik-Hotel Bristol, Cologne (& 0221/ tionally furnished, and its regional cui- 120195; www.antik-hotel-bristol.de): sine and convivial pub attract the locals. In the heart of this cathedral city along See p. 242. the Rhine, this unique hotel is filled • Gästehaus Englischer Garten, Munich with antiques, both country rustic and (& 089/3839410; www.hotelenglischer town-house elegant, making the atmo- garten.de): This is an oasis of charm sphere both authentic and inviting. See and tranquility, close to the Englischer p. 525.

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• Die Quadriga, Berlin (& 030/ this restaurant lies on the same square 214050): Critics hail this gastronomic as the fabled Rhineland cathedral. wonder in the Hotel Brandenburger French cuisine in Cologne doesn’t get Hof as Berlin’s finest dining choice. any better than this—the chefs have a Celebrated for its modern Continental prodigious talent for preparing food cuisine, it’s where the president of Ger- using only the finest and freshest ingre- many takes his favorite guests when he dients. See p. 527.

wants to “show off.” While seated in a • Victorian Restaurant, Düsseldorf THE BEST OF GERMANY 1904 chair designed by Frank Lloyd (& 0211/8655020): Regulars know Wright, you can enjoy food that is, in a what a treasure they have in this restau- word, sublime. See p. 110. rant: Market-fresh ingredients and a • Essigbrätlein, Nürnberg (& 0911/ steady hand in the kitchen produce 225131): Food critics single this out as award-winning traditional and modern the best dining spot in Nürnberg, and food. See p. 540. we heartily agree. Its upscale Franco- • Waldhotel Sonnora, outside Bernkas- nian and Continental cuisine is reason tel-Kues (& 06578/406): In the Mosel enough to visit the city. See p. 229. Valley, the Waldhotel Sonnora is one of • Weinhaus Zum Stachel, Würzburg the most justifiably acclaimed restau- 1 (& 0931/52770): This is the oldest rants in the country. Be sure to make a

(ca. 1413) wine house in a town loaded reservation as far in advance as possible THE BEST BEER HALLS & TAVERNS with them. Food is good, portions are and prepare yourself for a gastronomic copious, the wine flows, and everyone adventure in Continental cuisine. Herr has a wonderful time. This is old-time Thieltges, the chef, told us, “We don’t Deutschland at its most appealing. See just serve dishes—rather, culinary mas- p. 254. terpieces.” We agree. See p. 555. • Tantris, Munich (& 089/3619590): • Fischereihafen Restaurant, Altona, near Savvy German food critics have hon- Hamburg (& 040/381816): Patrons ored Tantris’s Hans Haas as the coun- from Tina Turner to Helmut Kohl have try’s top chef. He definitely serves some pronounced the food here delightful. of the finest and most innovative food From a window seat, you can overlook in Bavaria. See p. 313. the boats that might have hauled in your • Hanse Stube, Cologne (& 0221/ sole, eel, turbot, herring, or flounder 2701): Located in a landmark hotel, from the seas that day. See p. 626.

13 THE BEST BEER HALLS & TAVERNS

• Auerbachs Keller, Leipzig (& 0341/ • Hofbräuhaus am Platzl, Munich 216100): The most famous tavern in (& 089/221676): The Hofbräuhaus is eastern Germany, this is where Goethe the world’s most famous beer hall and staged the debate between Faust and can accommodate some 4,500 beer Mephistopheles. The tavern dates from drinkers on any given night. Music 1530 and has a series of murals evoking from live bands and huge mugs of beer the Faust legend. See p. 186. served at wooden tables combine to

004_470732-ch01.indd4_470732-ch01.indd 1111 110/28/090/28/09 1:221:22 PMPM 12 produce the best of Bavarian nighttime • Ratskeller, Bremen (& 0421/321676): fun. See p. 335. This is one of the most celebrated • Zum Roten Ochsen, Heidelberg Ratskellers in Germany. A tradition for (& 06221/20977): Over the years, decades, it serves top-notch German “The Red Ox” has drawn beer drinkers and international food and some of the from Mark Twain to Bismarck. Stu- best suds along the Rhineland, as well dents have been getting plastered here as one of the longest lists of vintage since 1703, and the tradition continues wines from the country’s vineyards. See to this day. See p. 435. p. 594.

14 THE BEST SHOPPING

The best way to approach shopping here is • Handicrafts: In the Bavarian Alps, to make it a part of your overall experience woodcarvers still carry on their time- and not an end unto itself. Though Berlin honored tradition. The best place to and Munich are the major shopping cen- purchase woodcarvings is in the Alpine ters in Germany, the rest of the country is village of Oberammergau. See “Shop- okay—neither a shopper’s mecca nor the ping for Woodcarvings” in chapter 10. THE BEST OF GERMANY OF BEST THE bargain basement of Europe. Still, you can • Timepieces: Corny though they may be, 1 find some good buys here, such as: carved Black Forest cuckoo clocks remain • Porcelain: For centuries, Germany has an enduring favorite. See chapter 12. been known for the quality of its porce- • Cutlery: WMF (Württembergische- lain. Names such as KPM, Rosenthal, Metalwaren-Fabrik) and J. A. Henckels and Meissen are household words. are two of the country’s premier pro- KPM, for example, has been a Berlin ducers of fine cutlery. Their knives are tradition for more than 2 centuries. expensive, but longtime users say they last forever. Both WMF and Henckels stores are found all over Germany. THE BEST SHOPPING BEST THE

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