THE IN-FLIGHT MAGAZINE OF AIR NIUGINI VOLUME 3 MAY – JUNE 2017 PARADISE

JUNGLE JAUNT A journey into the heart of PNG 75 YEARS ON All set for the Kokoda anniversary NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK Latest hotel openings on Air Niugini routes

LAE PHOTO ESSAY PNG’s second-largest city in pictures

PLUS: PNG SURFING CHAMPIONSHIPS SCIENTIST TIM FLANNERY SOUTH PACIFIC FASHION

IN PARADISE CONTENTS

AIRLINE NEWS TRAVELLER THE LATEST FROM AIR NIUGINI OUR COUNTRY, OUR REGION, OUR WORLD

A message from Air Niugini’s chairman 8

Townsville flights start 10

Codeshare with Air Vanuatu 10

Scholarships for Air Niugini's HR high flyers 12

New flight attendants set for take off 12

DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Q&A: Scientist Tim Flannery 14 Jungle jaunt A journey into the heart of PNG 22 PNG family histories preserved 15

New kids on the block Hotel openings along Air Niugini routes 34 8 reasons to visit Cairns The city’s best attractions revealed 42 Must-see streets of Singapore Colourful laneways and tips for shoppers 50 City guide Everything you need to know about Auckland 56 Out There Sepik River guesthouse 64 16 Review World’s best surf PNG Coral Sea Resort, Solomon Islands 66 WW2 planes found 18 Three of a kind Markets 68 New YWAM medical ship for PNG 19 Time Traveller 70 My Townsville: Brent Tate 20

4 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine IN PARADISE CONTENTS

LIVING MADE IN PNG LIFESTYLE, CULTURE, SPORT, ENTERTAINMENT SPECIAL FEATURE Locally made Manufacturing in PNG 108 On a roll A thriving coconut enterprise 110 Motoring along Ela Motors delivering safety enhanced boats 112 Steel will A burgeoning PNG industry 115 Encounters with whales STRICTLY BUSINESS PEOPLE, COMPANIES, INDUSTRIES Daredevil photographer takes the plunge 72 APEC bonanza PNG set to reap rewards 116 Coffee blueprint A move towards grower co-ops 118 Women digging in Opportunities in agribusiness 120 Online banking Technology takes grip in PNG 122

BRAIN GYM QUIZ, PUZZLES, CROSSWORD 75 years on All set for the Kokoda anniversary 80 How well do you know PNG and the region? Take the quiz. 125 Lae snapshot PNG’s second-largest city in photos 90 Solutions 126 Fiji flair We lift the lid on a thriving 94 ARRIVALS LOUNGE fashion industry PNG VISITOR GUIDE Spotted In Advice, where to eat, hotels 128 PNG charity manager in Colorado 98 134 Gadgets and travel accessories 102 Tok Pisin words and phrases street map 135 Movie previews 104 Lae street map 136 Book previews 106

AIR NIUGINI PASSENGER INFORMATION 138

Inflight entertainment guide 140

Cover photo: A bird in the hand ... an Avi villager in the Wahgi Valley, near Mount Hagen, has a close encounter with a bird of paradise. The region is included in ‘Jungle Jaunt’, our story starting on page 22. PICTURE: CHRIS McLENNAN

May – June 2017 5 PARADISE Paradise is the complimentary in-flight magazine of Air Niugini, ’s international airline. Business Advantage International publishes it six times a year.

BUSINESS ADVANTAGE INTERNATIONAL EDITORIAL Printed in Australia. Both printer and paper manufacturer for this publication are accredited to ISO14001, the internationally PUBLISHING DIRECTOR EDITOR recognised standard for environmental management. This Andrew Wilkins Robert Upe publication is printed using vegetable inks and the stock is elemental chlorine free and manufactured using COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR STAFF WRITERS sustainable forestry practices. Robert Hamilton-Jones David James, Kevin McQuillan Some of the articles in this publication are edited versions of ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGER CONTRIBUTORS those first published on the online PNG business magazine, Anthony Leydin Richard Andrews, Sarah Byrne, Greg Clarke, businessadvantagepng.com. +61 (0)415 586 027 Dusk Devi, Fiona Harper, Susan Gough Henly, Unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, transparencies and [email protected] Marisa Howden, Brian Johnston, Nina Karnikowski, photographs are submitted at the sender’s risk. While all care Hazel Kutkue, Julian Ryall, Jeff Turnbull, will be taken, neither the publishers nor the airline will accept Business Advantage International Pty Ltd Penny Watson responsibility for accidental loss or damage. No part of this Level 20, 31 Queen Street, Melbourne, publication may be reproduced without the written permission Victoria, 3000, Australia AIR NIUGINI EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS of the publisher. Statements, opinions and points of view Tel +61 3 9111 0044 Fax + 61 3 8678 1269 Illan Kaprangi, Nori Maniana expressed by the writers are their own and do not necessarily www.businessadvantageinternational.com represent those of the publisher, editor, or the airline. DESIGN Information contained in this publication may be correct only Michael Whitehead, Alicia Freile at the time it was originally obtained by the writers and may Editorial inquiries be subject to change at any time and without notice. CORRESPONDENCE TO THE AIRLINE Tel +61 3 9111 0044 © Copyright. 2017. All rights reserved. The Chief Executive Officer [email protected] Air Niugini PO Box 7186, Boroko, NCD, Papua New Guinea Paradise online Tel +675 327 3458 Fax +675 327 3550 www.airniuginiparadise.com

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he direct air service between As Air Niugini plans future regional and international expansion – to Port Moresby and Townsville, Shanghai in China, and the Marshall Islands and Kiribati in the Pacific which started on March 31, – we will draw on the success of the inaugural service to Townsville, T was marked with the warmest and the community and business engagement it is already facilitating. welcome possible in Australia’s Tropical Thank you, Townsville. I hope residents take the opportunity to visit North. PNG and take advantage of our regional hub service based out of I thank the mayor of Townsville, Jenny Jacksons International Airport, which offers efficient and affordable Hill, her council, Townsville Airport, connections to cities as diverse as Singapore, Manila, Hong Kong, Townsville Enterprise, the Townsville Narita, Bali, Honiara, Port Vila, Nadi, Chuuk and Pohnpei. Bulletin newspaper, the business Also contained in this issue is an excellent feature on a number of community, YWAM, and the significant the outstanding tourism resorts in PNG, which are at the heart of our number of citizens drawn from the large nation’s wide-ranging and growing adventure tourism sector. ‘ex-PNG’ community in Townsville, and North generally. The three destinations featured are in the Hela, Western Highlands I also thank the Air Niugini management team, and our in-flight and and East Sepik provinces. I urge readers to consider visiting these ground staff, who worked in co-operation with their counterparts in excellent resorts, which highlight the rich diversity of the cultural Townsville to make the first flight a memorable event. and natural environment that PNG has to offer. We were privileged that the prime minister, Peter O’Neill, as well Air Niugini is proud of the contribution it makes, as the national as the Minister for Culture, Arts and Tourism and a delegation of airline of PNG, to the development of our tourism and hospitality government, business and community leaders, were able to join us sectors – a contribution we continue to enhance. on the flight and the subsequent engagements, where the goodwill I want to commend to our business clients the excellent Business and hospitality were so evident. Travel Centre now fully operational and located at Waterfront The PM delighted the community on Palm Island, off the coast of Foodworld in Port Moresby. Air Niugini has developed this travel Townsville with a population of about 3000, with his visit there at agency to meet the travel, accommodation and other needs of our the invitation of mayor Alf Lacey, who proudly announced that Peter business clients. O’Neill was the first prime minister of any country, including Australia, Finally, on behalf of the Air Niugini family, I welcome our second to visit the island community. group of cadet engineers, who will have returned home in April as One important aspect of the new relationship between PNG and qualified maintenance engineers with European Aviation Safety Townsville is the opportunities it opens for the ‘ex-PNG’ community Agency (EASA) licences. in and around Townsville. Enjoy your flight, and we look forward to welcoming you back It was a surprise to learn that this community numbers more than on board very soon. 5000. Some are former PNG citizens now resident in the city, while others are Australian citizens who had lived and worked in PNG. The establishment of regular flights between the two cities will be a boost for family reunions, family holidays and a range of other people-to-people exchanges, such as cultural events and sporting Sir Frederick Reiher, KCMG, KBE competitions. Air Niugini will offer affordable airfares to provide Chairman, Air Niugini Limited as much support as possible for reunions and wider community engagement.

8 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

AIRLINE NEWS THE LATEST FROM AIR NIUGINI

Air Niugini starts flights VANUATU CODESHARE to Townsville AGREEMENT Air Niugini and Air Vanuatu have implemented a codeshare agreement that will increase traffic between the two nations and beyond. The first flight under the arrangement operated on March 28. Air Niugini chief executive officer, Simon Foo, says the codeshare benefits passengers from both countries because it introduces competition between airlines to sell seats on their aircraft. “The codeshare agreement also allows passengers in both markets to make seamless connections, and to have a VIP occasion (from right) Air Niugini chairman, Sir Frederick Reiher; PNG’s prime minister, Peter wider choice through fares and tickets O’Neill; the mayor of Townsville, Jenny Hill, in Townsville for the first flight. than currently available. ir Niugini has started direct flights “There are also strong links already in sport, “Customers from both airlines will between Port Moresby and especially , but also between continue to enjoy the choice of schedule, Townsville. our church groups, schools, health and comfort, frequent-flyer programs and The airline’s chairman, Sir Frederick other community groups. It will also benefit access to the lounge.” A Air Vanuatu’s chief executive officer, Reiher, says the new flights, which started Townsville and regional Queensland rugby on March 31, will benefit both Papua league teams playing in the Intrust cup, as Joseph Laloyer, also welcomed the New Guinea and Townsville in many ways well as our own PNG SP Hunters. PNG has codeshare services. – including education, business, agriculture, many fans of the “Part of our strategic planning is building freight and sports. who will now find it easier to travel and relationships with other carriers that He says the service will also help over 5000 watch the home games. This direct service enable Air Vanuatu to tap in to new Papua New Guineans in the PNG community will reduce travel time and costs for them,” markets and thus bring more traffic in and around Townsville to reunite with their Sir Frederick says. to Vanuatu,” he says. families back home. “This service will also assist organisations Air Niugini is operating a Boeing 737 “It’s an opportunity for former PNG citizens such as Youth With A Mission (YWAM) aircraft for this service. It operates twice and residents who now live in Townsville with the uplift of their volunteers, medical weekly, every Tuesday and Thursday, to to visit PNG, reunite with family and friends, and other supplies in and out of Townsville, Port Vila via Honiara, and returns the next and perhaps look at opportunities in the enabling them to continue and expand the day (Wednesday and Friday). small-business sector. splendid work they are doing in PNG to help In a codeshare agreement, both airlines people in rural communities.” participate in selling seats on an aircraft, Sir Frederick has urged North Queenslanders one as an operating carrier and the other to take advantage of the new flights and as the marketing carrier. accommodation packages to explore the Under this arrangement, Air Niugini is many attractions in PNG. the operating carrier and Air Vanuatu, as The Port Moresby/Townsville direct services the marketing carrier, is able to place its operate every Monday and Friday, departing ‘NF’ code on all Air Niugini flights operating Port Moresby at 9:55am and arriving in between Port Moresby and Port Vila. This Townsville at 11:45am. The return flight includes the intermediate sector between departs Townsville at 12:30pm and arrives Honiara, Solomon Islands and Port Vila. in Port Moresby at 2:20pm. n Apart from Air Vanuatu, Air Niugini also has codeshare agreements with Qantas Traditional PNG welcome … sing-sing dancers at NRL legend reveals what he loves about of Australia and Solomon Airlines. n Townsville airport. Townsville, see page 20.

10 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

AIRLINE NEWS THE LATEST FROM AIR NIUGINI Women’s rights HR high flyers on the agenda ir Niugini staff (pictured) gathered in March to commemorate International Women’s Day. The day is a time Ato celebrate acts of courage and determination by ordinary women who have played an extraordinary role in the history of their countries and communities. n

Airline executives … (front row, from left) Luke Ambu, Ritchilyn Barrios, Kilembe Neimani, Francis Danny; (back row, from left) Raymond John, Simon Foo, Ray Baloiloi and Rei Logona. New flight wo Air Niugini staff are among eight program has been developed through attendants set other Papua New Guineans who a strategic partnership with Brunel have been awarded scholarships by International to contribute to human capital the PNG Human Resource Institute development in PNG. for takeoff T ewly recruited cabin crew recently (PNGHRI) to do a two-year masters degree He says: “The scholarships cost in human resource management at the PGK75,000 each for employees for the visited Air Niugini’s head office in University of Papua New Guinea. two years and covers the full school fees, Port Moresby where they toured The Air Niugini staffers are Ritchilyn fortnightly allowances, super and relevant Nseveral departments. Barrios, who is the airline’s human resource continued professional courses offered To become a cabin crew member for administration manager, and Kilembe Neimani, by PNGHRI.” Air Niugini, candidates need excellent who say they are grateful for the opportunity. A total 20 of Papua New Guineans have interpersonal skills, a pleasant personality Barrios says: “I am honoured to be been awarded this scholarship since it and self-motivation. They must be single and nominated by Air Niugini management for started last year. aged between 19 and 25, with a grade 12 this scholarship. The company has recognised Air Niugini chief executive officer, Simon minimum of B passes. Height requirements my efforts in a way I have never imagined. Foo, says Barrios and Neimani are part of for women are 160 centimetres, and 170 I know it’s tough juggling work and studies, the upcoming ‘emerging leaders’ program centimetres for men. but I look forward to the challenges of at Air Niugini, and were selected because Those with additional qualifications in completing my studies and contributing to they are seen to have the potential to excel tourism and hospitality, as well as work ANG’s (Air Niugini’s) HR development.” in their careers. experience in customer service and Neimani says: “With the new skills and He acknowledged the president of PNGHRI, hospitality, are looked upon favourably. n knowledge acquired, I plan to focus on Jerry Wemin, and his executives for the strategic human resource management opportunity provided to Air Niugini staff. practice in Air Niugini, including aligning the “PNGHRI provides a good platform and airline HR policies and code of conduct to information base for the HR profession in ensure effective and timely customer service PNG. We are thankful for its support and to our stake holders, staff and the company.” recognition of Air Niugini as a valued partner PNGHRI executive officer, Francis Danny, of PNGHRI and will continue to work together n Recruits … the flight attendants at Air Niugini HQ says the Brunel Masters Skilim Laif scholarship in the future.” with cabin crew trainer Julie Sihine (far left).

12 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

reptiles fill the ecological niches. It’s like Paradise Q&A a whole other world. Q: Is climate change a particular threat to PNG and what can Papua New Guineans do about it? A: Papua New Guinea is already feeling TIM FLANNERY serious climate impacts, with people being forced to flee their island homes due to The internationally acclaimed scientist, explorer, rising seas. Sadly, unless Greenhouse gas emissions are reduced, many native birds conservationist and climate change activist is and animals are threatened with extinction. Thankfully, Papua New Guineans are real escorting a PNG cruise. champions in discussions to address climate change. I watch at the international meetings Q: You have travelled to Papua New meet some people unlike anyone else we’ve in admiration as they argue, eloquently, Guinea previously. Can you tell us about met. And there’s always the chance that from first-hand experience, of the need to those travels? we’ll come across some unknown creature. tackle the issue. For a small country, they A: I made over 20 trips to PNG from 1981 Q: What excites you about PNG? have a big impact. n to 2001. I was a mammal researcher at the A: I love the warm heartedness of the The World Expeditions’ ‘Melanesia Australian Museum at the time, and I visited people, the beauty of the landscapes, and Discoverer’ cruise with Tim Flannery is most of the country looking for mammals the excitement of being in such a poorly from October 8–21. The itinerary starts such as tree kangaroos and kapuls. I spent known place. There is nowhere else like it. in Madang, with fares from $US6995 the longest time in Sandaun Province, Q: Are there still new things to discover a person for a triple cabin. Highlights around Telefomin and Lumi. The region is in PNG? include bird-watching, exploring the so beautiful, with amazing mountain ranges, A: There are still many things to discover Sepik River, volcanoes and atolls. and it is the home of very interesting cultures. in PNG – even new mammals. Among the See worldexpeditions.com. Cruise I travelled everywhere with Lester Seri, who insects and plants there are many, many passengers can connect from Port is now a senior chief from the Wanigela discoveries to be made. It will take the Moresby to Madang with Air Niugini, area. We had a lot of fun, as well as making work of generations of scientists which flies there daily. amazing discoveries. – hopefully Papua New Guineans See airniugini.com.pg. Q: What were some of those amazing themselves – before the nation’s discoveries? biodiversity is documented. A: I discovered that many of PNG’s largest Q: The Solomon Islands mammals had not been scientifically are also on the itinerary described. Earlier explorers had been for your upcoming cruise. reluctant to go into the bush for long periods What do you look forward with the local expert hunters, so these hard- to there? to-find species had been overlooked. They A: The Solomon Islands are, included three tree kangaroos (the tenkile, from a biological perspective, golden mantled and Seri’s tree kangaroo) and quite different from PNG. There a wallaby (the alpine pademelon). are no native marsupials Q: What is taking you to PNG this time? in the Solomons, so A: I’m going to help lead a cruise (for World creatures like Expeditions) to some areas I haven’t seen bats, giant previously, like New Britain and Mussau rats and Island. I will be very interested to talk with the locals about their plants and animals. Q: What can cruise passengers expect from this voyage? A: I haven’t been to those parts of PNG, but I’m certain that we will see some of the most beautiful natural habitats on the planet, and

14 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE WITH ROBERT UPE PNG family histories preserved

History in the making … a MyHeritage team member works with villagers to map their family trees.

sraeli-based family history and “When speaking to the tribes, to create family histories of place on the importance of DNA company, MyHeritage, we would start with the heads of these tribes. preserving their history. has embarked on a project each family, and collect general “We also made it clear that the “There were some very Ito help preserve the family information about the tribe, information being collected is for emotional moments. During a histories of five PNG tribes. location and their memories,” the local tribes to own themselves. panel with some elders, they A team of five spent two weeks project leader, Golan Levi, says. It is a living record that they can recalled childhood memories, in Papua New Guinea last year, “Once we had a general outline build on in the years to come.” which included the bombings building up a profile of the tribes, we would start to forensically At the end of each family from World War 2. visiting 11 locations, recording track all members of the family, session, the team snapped a “What MyHeritage is doing about 4363 names and creating dates, birth certificates, photos family portrait using a Polaroid. is safeguarding our language family trees, the biggest of which and any other memorabilia.” “For many, seeing a photo and our history,” says tribesman has 745 names. The tribes are The response was amazing, being printed is akin to a magical Luke from the Yokoim clan. n Owolka (Jiwaka Province), Melpa says Golan. experience, which is wonderful See tribalquest.org (Western Highlands), Karim (East “This is the first time that to see.” Sepik), Yokoim (East Sepik) and an external international Golan says the team is amazed —KEVIN MCQUILLAN Chimbu (Chimbu). organisation has attempted at how much value the locals

PNG Games on track for NUMBER CRUNCH November That’s the number of internet users in PNG, representing 11.7 per cent apua New Guinea’s West New Britain Province. penetration of the population. In the showcase athletic event, The delay will allow organisers 906,695past few years, the number of users the PNG Games, will go to complete infrastructure has been steadily growing by about 10 per cent, according to Internet ahead from November and give teams more time Live Stats. The site says there are 3,424,971,237 internet users around P the world. 18 to December 2, following to prepare. The event brings another deferral. The Games together 12,000 athletes from will be staged in Kimbe, in the 22 provinces. n

May – June 2017 15 DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

World’s best surf PNG

Carving it up ... (clockwise from this page) Aussie longboarder Harvey Ingleby in the Tupira surf; children with traditional boards at the opening ceremony; the winners, Taylor Jensen from the US and Chloe Calmon from Brazil; France’s Victoria Vergara cuts a fine line; Jensen celebrates his victory.

he first-ever World Surf League (WSL) here, just because you hear things, but The women’s runner up, Crystal Walsh from event in Papua New Guinea has been witnessing it in person was just proof you can’t Hawaii, was equally enthusiastic. “This wave staged at Tupira in Madang Province. believe everything you hear. The people here are is so dreamy and perfect, it was great to have T The Kumul PNG World Longboard amazing and this is something I’ll never forget.” a longboard event here and really show that Championship in March attracted big crowds Brazil’s Chloe Calmon won the women’s we can charge. Especially the locals -– Ruthy and has been highly praised by the world’s competition, her first-ever WSL victory. Kurumuk was just going for it on the big days. best longboard surfers. “I’ve always dreamed about winning an I’m really excited and just super afraid of The men’s winner, Taylor Jensen from event, but this is completely different from waking up and this being all a dream.” the US, said: “This is crazy, I’ve never anything I’ve ever thought it would be like,” Kurumuk was among a number of PNG experienced anything like that and to get a Calmon said. “Since the first heat I was so wildcard surfers who competed in the early win here makes it that much more special. amazed by the energy of this place. I’m so heats. Others included the current PNG “This has been an amazing experience from thankful to be here in this amazing place with longboard champion, Marianne Longa, as start to finish. I was a little worried coming these great people.” well as Titima Mange and Akun Alois.

16 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Surfers from 11 countries took part, including importantly can showcase the Pink Nose Australia, Brazil, France, Great Britain, Japan, Revolution campaign that empowers women Peru, South Africa and the US. with equal rights and opportunities and The WSL partnered with the Surfing combats violence against women.” Association Papua New Guinea (SAPNG) Abel says the event will be held annually in to host the event. PNG, but it will move to a different location SAPNG president and co-founder, Andrew each year. Abel, said: “It (the event) marks a significant Tupira is 180 kilometres north of Madang, milestone in the evolution of surfing/ surf near Ulingan Bay, which is known for its tourism in PNG from humble beginnings. uncrowded breaks and consistent swell. n “SAPNG can now not only stage a major For all the results, see world surfing event live streamed to 120 worldsurfleague.com. million people around the world, but more

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May – June 2017 17 DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE WW2 planes found

hree planes that were shot down in Papua New Guinea during World War 2 have been found near Madang by T an American recovery team that visited recently. One of the planes is American and the other two are Japanese. But the team also has solid leads for more aircraft in Astrolabe Bay, off the Madang Golf Course, and along the Rai Coast, and will return in September to search further. The ‘Project Recover’ team comprised eight scientists from the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of Delaware, and the BentProp Project. They were accompanied by representatives of the PNG National Museum and the US Embassy.

18 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Remnants of war … Lalok villagers brief the recovery team NEW MEDICAL about plane debris (far left, circle); SHIP FOR PNG a B25 bomber found off Wangat Island A 65-metre supply vessel, the (opposite page); MV L’Astrolabe (pictured), has been Madang Resort’s acquired by YWAM Medical Ships for their support vessels (this page). work in Papua New Guinea. The ship, soon to be renamed the MV YWAM Liberty, will be the fourth vessel to be deployed by YWAM into PNG. YWAM PNG director, Ken Mulligan, says A memorial service was held for the airman The team was based on the 30-metre the acquisition of the ship represents hope missing from the US plane. charter yacht Kalibobo Spirit and the dive for tens of thousands of people with critical The scientists used remote-control vessel Dallman Diver, operated by Madang health needs in PNG. Since 2010, YWAM submarines during the search. Resort’s Sir Peter Barter. has delivered They also travelled to Lalok village, at the The team’s leader, Dr Andrew Pietruszka, 648,062 entrance of the Minjim River, where locals praised the crew and the friendliness of the healthcare told them of an aircraft that had crashed Madang people who had been so helpful to services in PNG into the river mouth during the war. Possible the searchers. and training to evidence of the crash includes aircraft debris The team will share its findings with the 145,567 people. that has been used in nearby villages. Papua New Guinean and US governments. n

May – June 2017 19 DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Brent Tate: My Townsville

ith the introduction of Air “The easy living and Niugini flights into Townsville, laid-back style appealed Papua New Guinea’s avid rugby to us,” he says. “It’s a great W league fans can easily go to place to bring up kids.” North Queensland Cowboys games. For first-time visitors to Brent Tate … One of the NRL team’s greatest players – Townsville, he recommends a hike up recommends a hike Brent Tate – who started his amazing career Castle Hill followed by lunch and quality up Castle Hill and lunch along with the Brisbane Broncos, has retired from coffee in The Strand. The Strand. the game and chosen to stay in Townsville “The view from Castle Hill is well worth with his young family. the exercise and going down The Strand – He’s very appreciative of his following they are two of the most iconic things in PNG during his 229-game NRL career, in Townsville.” complemented by 26 Tests for Australia and Two of his favourite hangouts are Michels 23 state-of-origin matches. and JAM Corner for good coffee and “I get blown away how recognisable you great food. are up there in Papua New Guinea,” Tate “In fact, anywhere along Palmer says. “We all know how they love their footy Street is pretty good, with some and how passionate they are about it.” great restaurants that punch well Tate now works on the corporate side of above their weight.” football with the Cowboys, and along with The climate is another factor for motivational speaking, positions on several staying in Townsville. “Winter for us is football-related boards, visiting schools and thongs, boardies and singlets,” Tate says. Air Niugini flies charity events, he sounds busier than ever. “And, if you’re packing for a holiday here, from Port Moresby to Tate is also a great spruiker for his adopted don’t forget sunscreen and a hat.” n Townsville twice a week. city of Townsville. —JEFF TURNBULL See airniugini.com.pg.

On the radar … Air Niugini is now flying to Townsville (left); there are good food and drink options along The Strand (middle); the Cowboys’ home ground (right).

20 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY, OUR REGION, OUR WORLD Jungle jaunt Robert Upe ventures into the remote heart of PNG, a trip that involves dugout canoes, rivers and jungle that goes forever. PICTURES: CHRIS MCLENNAN, ROBERT UPE MCLENNAN, ROBERT PICTURES: CHRIS

22 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY

Jungle panorama ... the view from the verandah of Karawari Lodge (opposite page); a Papuan hornbill (above); Paul, the guide.

he jungle choir is in full 350-horsepower jet engine of voice. Papuan hornbills, our steel boat so we can silently kingfishers, lorikeets, float and listen to the end-of-day Tparrots and butcherbirds cacophony. are singing an operetta from the Under a hot brow-wiping sun, we treetops. They’re accompanied by have visited tribes along the river the screeching of low-lying cicadas today, greeted by curious villagers and the deep bass-like rumbles of and excited children wherever the distant thunder. jet engine has taken us. We’re floating down the muddy It’s not as though we are the Karawari River, going softly with first travellers here. However, our a current that pushes through the group of six is a novelty, especially endless East Sepik jungle in Papua the tall West Hollywood blonde New Guinea’s interior. who is a student of anthropology It is eight hours downstream and psychology, and her lanky to the nearest road, and then elderly companion with Woody another eight hours by that road Allen humour. We’re told that the to the nearest small settlement, next visitors aren’t due for three Wewak. I later work out more weeks. on Google that the The villagers have performed closest McDonald’s cultural dances, welcomed us hamburger restaurant into their huts, and allowed is roughly 1500 us to enter spirit houses kilometres away, in where human skulls are Cairns, Australia. neatly arranged on shelves. Our guide, a local They have told us spirit villager who stories. “Crocodiles has adopted never die, they the Anglo turn into spirits. name of That’s why Paul, has you never find turned the body of a off the crocodile.”

May – June 2017 23 TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Jungle jaunt

The villagers have also shared the wide river, to the collective their sago pancakes, and splashed amusement of the villagers. with us in the river where the mud The seven-metre puk puks in the shallows squishes between (crocodiles) that inhabit this our toes. territory are further upstream, Obligingly, they allowed us to I’m advised. Paul says ‘piranha’ try a dugout canoe. The dugouts are in these waters too, but they are so narrow that they hardly fit are not the flesh-eating little Western-sized hips. I get wedged terrors of South America. in so tight that I pray I won’t roll “We only call them ‘piranha’ over, but I dare not stand up to because they have sharp teeth,” he paddle, as is the custom for men. laughs. “They won’t bite people.” Dugouts are vital to each family for Paul eventually indicates to the transport and fishing. They take up boat driver that our peaceful float to a month to make, with axes used listening to the choir must end. We to chop and shape the red cedar. need to go home, which tonight is So, when one is handed over, it is Karawari Lodge. a supreme show of faith. As the thrust of the jet engine Thankfully, the spirits grant safe increases, the choir is lost in passage. I don’t capsize and, with the treetops. a companion paddler, I’m able to Our boat is square, with 18 complete a wobbly criss-cross of plastic seats and a canopy over the

top. It’s a bit like a party vessel that bandicoots, cassowaries, pythons New Year’s revellers may hire on and four species of PNG’s iconic or Auckland harbours, but bird of paradise hide within. comfortable and manoeuverable “The forest here is untouched,” for this jungle travel. says Paul as he sweeps his hand Its flat bottom allows us to skim across the landscape. “There is no across shallow sections of water logging or mining.” when we detour into vine-cloaked Karawari Lodge is perched at tributaries that are choked with the top of a ridge, overlooking the reeds and flanked by jungle river and the jungle that stretches vegetation I’d never heard of, such to a mountainous horizon. By the as octomeles and macarangas. time we are on the verandah Wild pigs, monitor lizards, with cold beer and popcorn,

24 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Jungle jaunt

Fearsome ... one of the famous Mud Men (opposite page, top); thatched stilt houses along the Karawari River (opposite page, bottom); excited village kids (left).

a furious electrical storm has adventure film The African Queen. crackled into life. The Spirit is still being spruced up Bolts of lightning clap down for for the coming season, but we hours and tropical-strength rain hear she’ll soon be shipshape and smacks into the thatched roofing. offering three-night trips for up to We six (we’re the only ones 20 passengers at a time. staying) are joined by a hornbill that Our destination today is Yimas shelters with us. This must be the Lakes, where saltwater crocodiles smartest bird in the jungle. will outnumber us and gaze at our Soon, she musters the courage picnic lunch. to jump on the shoulder of one On the way, we stop at Yimas beer drinker. village. This is the home of Paul, Joanna (that’s the courageous and he proudly brings us ashore hornbill named by the lodge, not where women with painted the beer drinker) is a gentle soul. faces and grass skirts perform Her long down-curved beak can the ‘fish dance’ to the beat of probably crush human bones, a kundu drum. but when she clamps on to The dance is reserved for arms or hands to investigate the celebrations, Christmas and to curious human form, it is with the welcome visitors. tenderness of a choir singer. Baskets, masks, bows, arrows, The next morning, there’s more spears, bilums, jewellery and river exploration. We shove off carvings that have been handmade with our party boat into the current over days, or weeks, of toil are laid from the riverbank below the lodge, out on the ground for us to buy at where the Sepik Spirit is tied up. bargain prices. This riverboat is reminiscent This is the case in every village of something from the 1950’s we visit. Strictly speaking, there

May – June 2017 25 TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Jungle jaunt

is no bargaining but you can ask for a ‘second price’. There are more than 800 languages in PNG, so negotiation is often easiest with translation by the guide. The children of Yimas bid us an excited farewell. They hang on to the side of the party boat for as long as they dare, before jumping back to shore with thumping barefoot landings on the dirt. More children have gathered up river, where they wait for us to Tribal pride ... a village chief and his wife near Mount Hagen (opposite page); pass so they can play in the bow Huli Wigmen in all their finery near Tari (above). waves that will roll to shore. To the screech of the kids, the driver White-bellied sea eagles and in traditional dress, with white and accelerates the jet engine to create kites ride the thermals overhead. ochre body and face paint. This is bigger waves and more fun. They are hunting, perhaps for the how it would have looked if you The sun is overhead and the bandicoot among the octomeles. rounded this bend 100 years ago. humidity is sapping and sweat As we round a bend, we come Some of the women have babies inducing, despite a breeze created across a group of about 20 women with them and some have small by the party boat’s momentum. fishing in dugout canoes. They are fires on board so they can

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TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Jungle jaunt

Traffic jam ... a flotilla of fisherwomen on the Karawari River (above); the fish are smoked over small fires in their dugout canoes (right); a Western Highlands tribesman near Mount Hagen (far right). smoke the fish before they spoil in Travelling between the lodges Huli Wigmen who the heat. involves boats, bumpy roads and perform a sing-sing The fisherwomen come alongside. light planes that thud on to grass (traditional song Tobacco is traded and we buy a landing strips. Pack light, because and dance). large catfish for PGK5 ($US1.58), as the luggage limit is 10 kilograms. They paint their well as a piku for PGK10. The piku is On this nine-day tour, we faces a distinctive the ‘piranha’ that Paul spoke of. also stay at Rondon Ridge near yellow and red, As we picnic at Yimas Lakes Mount Hagen in the Western and wear wigs later, our boat driver wades in to Highlands, and Ambua Lodge in with feathered gut and clean the fish. There’s no Hela Province, which can fairly be headdresses. frenzy of crocodile action, but the described as David Attenborough salties are watchful. territory. That night, the lodge chefs The British naturalist stayed at prepare the fish simply so we Ambua Lodge while filming his can appreciate the true taste. 1996 classic documentary about It’s neither good, nor terrible, but the bird of paradise, Attenborough satisfying in its freshness and the in Paradise. way it was obtained. Attenborough’s birding guide, Karawari Lodge is one of several Joseph, also leads us on an wilderness lodges operated excursion, but the birds prove by Trans Niugini Tours, a highly to be elusive. capable tour company that has From Ambua, we visit been in business for 35 years. (The villages (by road, rather than company also runs the Sepik Spirit). river) and meet the colourful

28 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Jungle jaunt

Wilderness quarters ... (from left) Karawari, Ambua and Rondon Ridge lodges. NEED TO KNOW

At Rondon Ridge, we meet cemetery. As a misty dawn broke TOURING THERE Trans Niugini Tours has a villagers from several tribes, they rose up from the graves and nine-day ‘Wonders of Niugini’ trip that costs including the notorious Mud Men. scared the bejesus out of the about $US4800 a person twin share, including Simply, the story of the Mud intruders, who fled, never to return. accommodation, meals and guides. Flights extra. Men is that a small tribe was Air Niugini flies from MORE INFORMATION pngtours.com dispossessed of its land by a Port Moresby to Tari four large tribe. To win back their land, times a week and and they made masks and covered daily to Mount Hagen. themselves in mud and hid in the See airniugini.com.pg.

30 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine CONNECTING BUSINESSES ACROSS ASIA AND BEYOND IT’S IN OUR DNA

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© Australia and New Zealand Banking Group (PNG) Limited. 03/17 HG314 TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY Jungle jaunt

LODGES ON OUR TOUR AMBUA All accommodation has good Where: Hela Province views into the Tari Basin. There How we got there: Air Niugini are sofas and sitting areas in the flight from Port Moresby to Tari, main lodge, a small bar where Port Moresby then a 50-minute drive along the beers cost PGK12, a central wood Highlands Highway. burner, and a dining area. There’s Wewak How big: 26 round huts made also an adjacent souvenir shop of bush materials and 18 newer selling artefacts. Good home-style Sepik R hotel-style rooms. cooking.

Ka What it’s like: The huts and What you’ll see: Huli Wigmen, ra w rooms are basic; they include bird of paradise, waterfalls, and Karawari Lodge a r i small bathrooms, and have village ceremonies.

R comforts such as electric blankets Elevation: 2100 metres PNG for the cool mountain mornings Climate: Warm, but cool nights and evenings, and armchairs. and mornings. Tari Mount Hagen Ambua Lodge Rondon Ridge KARAWARI turned off between 10pm and Where: East Sepik Province 6am). The main lodge area is full How we got there: Light plane of artefacts that are for sale, and 0 Km 100 from Tari (45 minutes). the verandah has great views of How big: 20 rooms (10 with river the river below, of jungle that goes views, 10 with jungle views). forever and mountains. Again, the What it’s like: Basic, but full home-style meals are good. of character. Despite some What you’ll see: There are shortcomings (limited power, visits to several villages along the trickling showers) our group rated river, where various ceremonies this as the favourite lodge on the are performed. trip. Rooms include beds with Elevation: 90 metres (tropical mosquito nets, bathrooms and lowland) ceiling fans (but generators are Climate: Hot and humid.

RONDON RIDGE smaller, but they are cosy and well Where: Western Highlands equipped. There’s also the super- Province spacious two-bedroom double- How we got there: Light plane storey Wingti Villa (opened last from Karawari to Mount Hagen year) that’s fit for prime ministers (45 minutes), then one hour by and royalty. I bet Jagger would road from Mount Hagen. (Air stay in this villa if he ever comes Niugini also flies to Mount Hagen back. All accommodation has great from Port Moresby.) views looking over Mount Hagen How big: 29 rooms township in the valley below. The What it’s like: This place rocks main lodge has a bar, dining area, when it comes to jungle comforts. sofas and lounge chairs, souvenir It’s like a luxury city hotel, except shop and outside seating next to it’s in the wilds. Rolling Stone landscaped gardens and pond. Mick Jagger stayed in 2014. What you’ll see: Mud Men, The spacious tri-level new suites bird of paradise, spirit dances, (opened last year) have flat- a medicine man, PNG’s third- screen TVs, sofas, lounge chairs, largest town, Mount Hagen. well-equipped kitchens, electric Elevation: 2150 metres blankets, bedside touch lamps Climate: Warm but may need and rain showers with endless a cardigan at night. hot water. Older basic rooms are

32 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

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New kids on the block Sue Gough Henly provides the low-down on the latest hotel openings on Air Niugini routes.

NADI: MARRIOTT RESORT MOMI BAY (FIJI) marriott.com/hotels/travel/nanmc-fiji-marriott-resort-momi-bay Just 29 kilometres from Nadi and 33 kilometres or relaxing at the beach, around the pools during the day before morphing into an elegant from Fiji’s international airport, the brand-new and by the sheltered lagoon, chill out at The al fresco restaurant offering grilled favourites waterfront Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay, Lagoon Lounge, which is the heart and soul of from the land and sea. Tennis courts, a health offers 250 tranquil, neutral-toned over-water the resort. As for food options, there’s all-day club and a serene spa round out the offerings or lagoon-front bures all with balconies, dining at Goji Kitchen and Bar, Mediterranean and families will love the Turtles Kids’ Club and freestanding baths and air-conditioning. After fare at The Lagoon House Restaurant, while superb Fijian babysitting services. you’ve spent the day enjoying water sports the oceanfront Fish Bar offers casual seafood

34 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION

BALI: MOVENPICK RESORT & SPA JIMBARAN (INDONESIA) movenpick.com/en/asia/indonesia/bali/ jimbaran-bali/overview It’s not just an ice cream – Movenpick is also a Swiss-owned resort chain and its newest five-star property is just 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport and 100 metres behind Jimbaran Beach. This is the perfect family lifestyle resort with 297 elegant rooms, each with balconies with views of Jimbaran Bay or the resort’s lush gardens. There’s something for everyone here with swim-up hammocks beside the pool, Peruvian-Japanese cuisine at the ocean-view rooftop bar (just one of five dining destinations offering a range of Asian, Swiss and contemporary international cuisine), Balinese massages and Indonesian healing rituals in the spa, a fully-equipped fitness centre, shopping at Samasta Lifestyle Village and a pirate-themed kids club.

JAKARTA: THE WESTIN (INDONESIA) westinjakarta.com Jakarta’s tallest hotel, the brand-new Westin, is located in a 63-storey tower in Jakarta’s Golden Triangle in the heart of the city’s business district and close to the National Museum of Indonesia and Ancol Dreamland, one of Asia’s largest theme parks. The hotel starts at level 52 so each of the 283 rooms, which feature the Westin Heavenly Bed, have great views. The Henshin Restaurant specialises in Japanese food while the Seasonal Tastes Restaurant has a range of imaginative dishes, and the hotel also offers Westin’s SuperFoodRX healthy eating program. There’s also an indoor pool, fitness studio and spa.

May – June 2017 35 TRAVELLER OUR REGION New kids on the block

SYDNEY: THE OLD CLARE (AUSTRALIA) theoldclarehotel.com.au Created from the historic bones of an old pub and brewery building, which are joined by a glass-and-steel atrium, The Old Clare has a pared-back, post-Industrial feel that perfectly reflects its locale in Sydney’s edgy urban renewal hub of Chippendale. Check into one of the hotel’s 62 individually decorated rooms and suites, which have high ceilings, large original framed windows, heritage timber panelling and original exposed brick walls. Bespoke details are provided by pendant lights, vintage furniture, PORT DOUGLAS: SHERATON and custom tote bags and cushions inspired MIRAGE (AUSTRALIA) by Australian flora and fauna. The ground-floor sheratonportdouglas.com hotel bar embraces its earlier incarnation as the preferred watering hole for indie rock lovers, If you haven’t visited in a while, you’ll be bohemians, artists and intellectuals. Two pleasantly surprised by the new-look Sheraton independent restaurants are also part of the Mirage Port Douglas, which has undergone a Old Clare: the sleek, monochromatic Automata multi-million dollar refurbishment. The highlight has an inspired seasonal degustation menu while remains its two hectares of saltwater lagoon the airy, casual Kensington Street Social offers and freshwater pools surrounded by lush witty versions of classic brasserie dishes. gardens, which now include 26 new private cabanas. Three brand-new suites

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36 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION New kids on the block

BRISBANE: SAGE HOTEL (AUSTRALIA) snhotels.com/sage/james-street-brisbane Located on groovy James Street, which is jam- packed with cafes, boutiques and art galleries in Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley, the 93-room Sage Hotel cleverly combines a repurposed warehouse with traditional elements of the adjoining Queens Arms Hotel. The hotel lobby sports polished concrete floors, split aged and recycled sand stock brick and stunning lighting design. Get comfortable in the hotel’s spacious offer unparalleled tropical North Queensland rooms, which feature marble bathrooms, edgy luxury while new ‘swim out’ rooms enable photography, free Wi-Fi on unlimited devices guests to access the lagoons from their private and distinctive minibar offerings from local balconies. All 294 guest rooms have been provedores. On-site dining options include transformed and feature warm tropical tones Botanical Kitchen and Bar plus a wine cellar, and crisp fresh textures inspired by the tropics. deli and James Street Café located in the lobby. There’s a new signature restaurant called Guests receive complimentary passes to the Feast and a new Lobby Cafe, while the heritage Valley Baths and can easily walk in one revitalised Mirage Country Club has terrific direction to the Valley’s many bars and nightclubs golf and tennis facilities, as well as a lap pool Anituaand Mining in the half-pageother to riverside ad - Mining New Farm• 185x120 Park and Paradise Magazine 7465.0814 and fitness centre. Brisbane Powerhouse arts centre.

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May – June 2017 37 TRAVELLER OUR REGION New kids on the block

PORT VILA: RAMADA (VANUATU) HONG KONG: THE MURRAY ramadaresort.com.vu marcopolohotels.com/en/niccolo/hotels/ hongkong/tral/the_murray/index.html

After a $HK1.2 billion preservation project by Pritzker-award-winning architect Norman Foster to repurpose one of Hong Kong’s iconic landmark buildings, the 336-room Murray Hotel will open on Cotton Tree Drive near Hong Kong Park in the Central district in October. The 27-storey hotel retains the building’s signature arches and will offer some of Hong Kong’s most spacious rooms and suites, each with floor-to- ceiling windows. There will be five restaurants and bars, including a rooftop bar and restaurant Check into the newly built Ramada Resort Port with views of The Peak and the business district Vila, which is a full-service beachfront resort skyline, the Pavilion Chinese Restaurant, a tea nestled on the cliffs of Erakor Lagoon, close to lounge, and an exclusive lobby bar. Multilingual downtown Port Vila and just eight kilometres city insiders, a new generation of in-the-know from the international airport. Eighty self- concierges, will provide guests access to some contained, air-conditioned apartments feature of Hong Kong’s best-kept secrets. satellite flat-screen televisions and balconies offering panoramic lagoon views. There is a gym, a large pool and beach for swimming, plus kayaking and snorkelling equipment. The in- house restaurant has a selection of Melanesian and Polynesian dishes, as well as international cuisine. The tranquil Lounge Bar has superb views over the lagoon while the Sports Bar features large-screen televisions showing games from around the world.

TOKYO: AMAN (JAPAN) aman.com/resorts/aman-tokyo

The first Aman urban hotel is almost two years wood and washi-paper shoji screens blended the 30-metre swimming pool with panoramic old, but still feels very new. Its 84 large rooms with modern technology, luxurious fabrics and views from its floor-to-ceiling windows. The fine and suites are l at the top of the 40-storey sublime views. Long narrow bathrooms have dining restaurant overlooks the Imperial Palace Otemachi Tower, just steps away from Tokyo Washlet toilets, traditional baths and yukata Gardens and Mount Fuji while a cafe is tucked Station and the Ginza shopping district. Savour robes. Indulge in a sublime treatment at the into greenery on the ground floor. updated Japanese interiors with light camphor Aman Spa, the largest hotel spa in Tokyo, or in

38 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION New kids on the block

SHANGHAI: SOFITEL SHANGHAI HONGQIAO (CHINA)* sofitel.com/gb/hotel-9933-sofitel- shanghai-hongqiao/index.shtml Located in Shanghai’s newest business district and only three kilometres from Hongqiao Airport, Sofitel Shanghai Hongqiao combines Shanghainese innovation with classic Parisian style reminiscent of the city’s French Quarter architecture. Its 354 large rooms and suites feature Sofitel MyBed, Lanvin amenities, free Wi-Fi and 48-inch LCD screens with satellite channels. Among the many restaurants are Le Chinois, which is a modern Cantonese restaurant that incorporates elements of French gastronomy, Takara Japanese restaurant, Le Bar and Ocho tapas and wine bar. There is also a 25-metre indoor swimming pool, French spa and fully equipped gym. *Air Niugini is planning to start flights to Shanghai.

May – June 2017 39

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REASONS TO

PICTURES: COURTESY TOURISM TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND VISIT CAIRNS

Fiona Harper reveals some of PARONELLA PARK glide past elaborately constructed Uncover a romantic tale walls leading to a Spanish-style the attractions of this Far North between Spanish cane farmer castle. Draped in lichen and Jose Paronella’s and his moss, structures are shaded by a Queensland town, from waterfalls 1beloved wife Margarita at magnificent stand of kauri trees Paronella Park, south of Cairns. planted by Jose almost 100 years to parklands, and the ‘in’ bars After purchasing virgin scrub ago. Stay for lunch at the cafe or and restaurants. in the 1920s, Jose created a overnight in a small cabin. pleasure garden for Margarita, See paronellapark.com.au. edged between the Great Dividing Range, World Heritage later expanding it and opening the wet tropics rainforest and the Coral Sea, Cairns is no shrink- five-hectare park to the public. ing violet when it comes to natural beauty. While the Great Powered by an innovative hydro- Barrier Reef needs little introduction, north Queensland’s electric system pumping water W from Mena Creek, Paronella has tropical city is the central hub in a many-spoked wheel. won numerous awards. Rising from Here are some of our top reasons to visit Cairns. the forest, stairways and paths

42 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION

LANEWAY BAR CULTURE laneway next to The Paddock There is growing laneway (thepaddockcairns.com/harvest). momentum in Cairns Down Red Brick Laneway, Three with intimate night spots Wolves (threewolves.com.au) is 2gaining a loyal following. It the latest to pop up with a focus started with The Conservatory, a on premium spirits and cocktails sophisticated wine bar with tapas- matched with delectable eats. style dining and low-key live music. See Then came Harvest Bar-B-Que, a theconservatorybar.com.au. seasonal weekend popup serving smoked meats, sharp cocktails and hip hop down the garden

GREEN ISLAND looks like the old-fashioned pearl Take a boat trip to Green diver helmets but with a modern Island, a small coral atoll upgrade, and walk across the approximately 30 kilometres ocean floor with schools of fish 3east of Cairns, surrounded swimming around your head. by fringing coral reef. A small resort Keep an eye out for serial photo with cafe, shops, swimming pool bomber Gavin, a friendly parrotfish and dive shop is the hub for both who loves his photo taken; he’s day-trippers and overnight guests. famous for his toothy grin. Try scuba diving or snorkelling, or, See greenislandcairns.com. for something completely different, helmet diving. Don a helmet, which

COUNTRY CLUB down the surrounding tropical AND RESORT rainforest-clad mountains, which Paradise Palms and Country provide a dramatic backdrop. A Club in the northern suburbs Queenslander-style country club 4of Cairns is ranked by Golf welcomes golfers, and non-golfers, Digest in Australia’s Top 100 golf as does the adjacent Paradise courses. Its challenging cham- Palms Resort with its resort-style pionship layout with undulating (family friendly) facilities. fairways, testing greens among See paradisepalms.com.au. lakes and immaculately landscaped gardens make an unforgettable golfing experience. Several creeks run across the course, cascading

Cairns at a glance … (clockwise from opposite page) on the beach at Palm Cove; Paronella Park; a seafood feast; Green Island; the city from the air.

May – June 2017 43 TRAVELLER OUR REGION 8 reasons to visit Cairns

MUNRO MARTIN PARKLANDS A new venue on the local cultural scene, Munro Martin 5Parklands is an outdoor music and cultural venue for intimate performances. Designed in a style appropriate to the tropics, MMP is a lushly landscaped open-air amphitheatre draped in vines beneath star-dappled tropical skies. A diverse program of cultural events is on offer year-round. See cairns.qld.gov.au.

Relaxed … the Cairns waterfront and esplanade.

44 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION 8 reasons to visit Cairns

PALM COVE Palm Cove is a palm tree- lined beachside suburb on the Cairns northern beaches. 6With a lifeguard-patrolled beach, it’s the favoured hangout of celebrities and A-listers, as well as locals. Home to some of Cairns' best restaurants and cafes, Palm Cove’s landscaped waterfront has free beachfront barbecues and picnic tables. One of Queensland’s most awarded restaurants, Nu Nu’s, is undisputedly Cairns' best restaurant, serving modern Australian cuisine influenced by fresh local produce. Vivo is splendid for breakfast, or lingering over lunch on the Queenslander- style verandah. See tourismpalmcove.com.

46 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION 8 reasons to visit Cairns

Among the palms … THE ESPLANADE dining at Palm Beach LAGOON (opposite page); one of the enticing freshwater Open every day from pools that surround dawn to after dark, the Cairns (this page). 7waterfront Esplanade Lagoon is one of Cairns' biggest attractions. And it’s completely free. A saltwater lagoon-style swimming pool surrounded by landscaped parklands is patrolled by lifeguards. Take part in one of the fun fitness classes (like water- based Zumba or aqua aerobics), walk or cycle the boardwalks, or feast on an Aussie barbecue at one of the free gas-fired barbies. If you’d rather not self-cater, there’s countless restaurants from casual to fine dining along the Esplanade and marina boardwalk. See cairns.qld.gov.au.

May – June 2017 47 TRAVELLER OUR REGION 8 reasons to visit Cairns

Millaa Millaa Falls … a popular swimming spot on the waterfall circuit.

WATERFALLS AND Most are accessible year-round Behana Gorge is another, which is Crystal Cascades, where you’ll RAINFOREST and provide safe swimming holes reached via a concrete path that find a series of swimming holes, In the Atherton Tablelands, devoid of saltwater crocodiles and gently ascends through forest. It’s small waterfalls and shady picnic west of Cairns, forest-clad marine stingers. The Waterfall well worth the walk as there’s a areas linked by paths. 8mountain ranges conceal Circuit, near Millaa Millaa, has five deep-water pool among towering See millaamillaa.com. waterfalls that plunge into enticing waterfalls close to each other. rock outcrops at the base of the freshwater swimming holes. Less than one hour from the city, waterfall. Closer to Cairns is

Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to Cairns 13 times a week. See airniugini.com.pg.

48 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION SingaporeMust-see streets of Penny Watson explores the colourful laneways and streets of Singapore and gives her tips on where to buy everything from batik shirts, to spices, bespoke jewellery and local delicacies.

Haji Lane and Bali Lane and bespoke jewellery, and Fluffy Feline’s hanging from the walls, are almost as big as Haji is the term given to a Muslim male clothes and accessories are the output of five the signs promoting ‘massive reductions’ and fresh from a pilgrimage to Mecca. In times local designers. shop owners are not shy of touting customers past, if you wanted to get to Mecca, this is I Am cafe, at the end of the lane, is known for on the footpath. where you found your haji broker. How times its hookah pipes and rainbow crepe. Parallel to In keeping with the Middle Eastern theme, have changed. Haji, Bali Lane is smaller with more of the same. but with a contemporary edge, Sifr Aromatics, Today this strip of brightly coloured pre-war a refined place with custom-made aromatics shophouses, in the Kampong Glam Malay- Arab Street and and exquisite perfume bottles, is a must. Muslim quarter, is the antithesis of the city’s Bussorah Mall Around the corner on Bussorah Mall, Masjid gleaming metropolis, attracting visitors Arab Street was created in 1824 as the main Sultan Mosque is the focal point for the city’s who rate eclectic, creative and independent thoroughfare in the Kampong Glam Malay- Muslim community, with a prayer hall that holds boutiques over shopping malls. Muslim quarter, attracting Malay, Indian, Arab, 5000 worshippers. Its popularity has spawned The hipster influence plays out in shops such Buginese and Javanese people. the preponderance of cafes and restaurants as Tokyobike, Oro hats and Mujosh barber, but It lies parallel to Haji Lane, but it’s a completely on this pedestrian-only strip, which has the emphasis is on homespun places where different scene altogether. The wide street is authentic architecture and palm trees but can one-offs rule. Mood Swing vintage has racks lined with shops selling Indonesian batik shirts, feel a bit like a theme park. For a bite, head of retro-fabric dresses and headbands, Salad Indian saris, colourful fabrics, and bolts of instead to Kampong Glam Cafe on nearby Shop tosses stylish home wares in with dresses lace and organza. Hand-knotted Persian rugs, Baghdad Street for well-priced Malay cuisine.

50 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION

Street walk … Haji Lane (opposite page); Serangoon Road (left); Arab Street (below).

Amoy Street and Telok Ayer Like Chinatowns everywhere, Singapore’s is a grid of festive, lantern-strung streets jam- packed with stalls selling dragon masks, jade Buddhas and other Sino souvenirs. There’s a chintzy food street with food carts and plenty of dim sum diners for an outdoor lunch. Once you’ve had your fill, it’s worth strolling away from the touristy area to historic Amoy Street and Telok Ayer. In the 19th century, before land reclamation, Telok Ayer was the port for Chinese settlers who came by junk boat from the mainland. Today the history is writ large in the sculpture installations in the central square and the traditional architecture of Thian Hock Keng temple.

May – June 2017 51 TRAVELLER OUR REGION Must-see streets of Singapore

Both streets have a rainbow of painted three- streets are aromatically charged with spice storey shophouses that have been converted shops and restaurants such as Banana Leaf into offices, high-end boutiques and modern Apolo (48 Serangoon Road) where you eat restaurants and bars. Come here for global Indian style – with your hands. Pit stops include cuisine and a cocktail, but don’t overlook the the intricately decorated five-tier Sri Srinivasa Amoy Street Food Centre, where hundreds of Perumal Temple (397 Serangoon Road), one of office workers gather to eat bowls of chicken the city’s oldest temples, and nearby Tan Teng rice and noodles for about $S5. Niah House (37 Kerbau Road) a psychedelically painted example of courtyard mansions of the Serangoon Road early 1900s. While Chinatown and Kampong Glam were gazetted Chinese and Malay areas respectively, Bugis Street and Singapore’s Indian population has grown Queen Street organically along Serangoon Road. Known The shops don’t open until after 10am but rise as Little India, it has become their religious, and shine early for a window into local life. cultural and commercial heartland. The food market on Queen Street at the base It’s at its best during feast days, such as of an older style Chen Yan Court apartment Diwali, when Singaporeans turn out to eat and block is the city’s alarm clock with stalls selling drink in the lavishly decorated streets, but it is baked buns and cakes, fresh tropical juices, an intriguing destination year-round. crackly roast duck and pickled vegetables The shophouses are wonderfully plonked on rice. weatherworn with peeling pastel paint, ceramic Sit on the bright yellow plastic chairs and tiles and ornamental floral plasterwork. The sip sickly but deliciously sweet local coffee with

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52 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION Must-see streets of Singapore

a dollop of condensed milk for $S1.10 and watch people coming and going from the nearby temple. Street food Michelin-star winner Ah Heng Curry Chicken Bee Hoon Mee is here too. Once the infamous haunt of trans-gender prostitutes, cheap food and a nightly sex bazaar, Bugis Street is now a characteristic local indoor market selling tacky favourites: phone accessories, T-shirts, watches, key rings, factory toys and polyester clothes. It’s a haven for cheap souvenirs and Singaporean snacks.

Bugis Street … a haven for souvenirs and Singaporean snacks.

May – June 2017 53 TRAVELLER OUR REGION Must-see streets of Singapore

Beach Road Tasting notes … the recipe In the Arab Quarter, Beach Road isn’t a plates destination in its own right, but a trio of unique featuring boutiques in a line of restored shophouses iconic local makes it a worthy detour. dishes. Scene Shang (sceneshang.com) is a contemporary furniture label that takes its cues from 1930’s art deco Shanghai – think glass and marble banker desk lamps and distressed green leather armchairs. Next door, Supermama (supermamastore. com) is the go-to for retro-cool souvenirs, including the melamine recipe plates featuring iconic local dishes such as Hokkien mee and Nonya laksa. LookSee (lobehold.com/looksee) is a tranquil contemporary tea salon and book room featuring titles from thinkers in Singapore’s creative industries. Air Niugini has flights between Port Moresby and Singapore five times weekly. See airniugini.com.pg.

54 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION aucklandCity guide: Brian Johnston finds the best things to do and the best places to stay in New Zealand’s ‘City of Sails’.

End of day … the sun sets over downtown Auckland and its harbour.

raced with a magnificent harbour and surrounding great museums, shopping and dining, and an increasingly landscape of ancient volcanoes, Auckland is a city that lively nightlife. After all, this is New Zealand’s largest, most provides wild beauty on its doorstep. A highlight for cosmopolitan, multi-ethnic and vibrant destination. Gvisitors is getting beyond the city centre for a harbour Air Niugini passengers can fly from Port Moresby to Brisbane walk, ferry ride or drive along its stunning coastlines. or Sydney, where they can catch connecting flights to New But the city itself is replete with enough attractions to Zealand. keep even the world-weary visitor happy. Auckland has

56 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION City guide: Auckland

Into thin air … Sky Tower thrills 90 metres above the streets of Auckland (left); the Mediterranean-like Waiheke Island (centre); wind in the sails on Auckland Harbour (right).

GETTING AROUND Wintergardens conservatory. It away in atmosphere from the city of companies offering charters and Auckland Transport (at.govt.nz) surrounds the excellent Auckland centre, with the air of a colonial- skippered excursions. The New runs an efficient network of buses War Memorial Museum era village. It has pretty shops and Zealand Maritime Museum (Corner and ferries that link city and (aucklandmuseum.com). galleries, while North Head offers Quay and Hobson Streets, Viaduct suburbs. The inner-city Link and Auckland Art Gallery (corner splendid views towards the city. Harbour; maritimemuseum.co.nz) City Circuit services are the most Kitchener and Wellesley Streets; showcases seafaring history from useful for visitors; the ferry to aucklandartgallery.com) features AUCKLAND SPECIAL the Maoris onwards; watch Devonport provides great views. European art but is most There’s a reason Auckland is experts repairing traditional Taxis can be hailed on the street interesting for New Zealand nicknamed ‘City of Sails’: it wooden vessels. or at plentiful stands. landscape paintings, portraits of reputedly has more boats per tattoo-decorated Maori warriors capita than anywhere else. The CULTURE VULTURE SIGHTS and depictions of early contact city has hosted the America’s Cup, The Museum of Transport and Auckland Domain (aucklandcouncil. with European explorers. Whitbread Round the World Races Technology (805 Great North Road, govt.nz) features native ferns and Seaside suburb Devonport and more recently Volvo Ocean Western Springs; motat.org.nz) other plants, while hothouse (visitdevonport.co.nz) on the Races. Visitors have ample features old steam trains, trams flowers erupt in its elegant harbour’s north shore is a world opportunities to sail, with dozens and tractors, and keeps kids

58 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION City guide: Auckland

CHILD’S PLAY RETAIL THERAPY Adventure playground Rainbow’s Department store Smith & End Theme Park (2 Clist Crescent, Caughey’s (253–261 Queen Street; Manukau; rainbowsend.co.nz) has smithandcaugheys.co.nz) was thrill and water rides for older founded in 1880 and is still going children, and a Kidz Kingdom for strong. It’s a good one-stop under-10s. destination for fashion and Kelly Tarlton’s Sea Life Aquarium accessories, perfumes, (23 Tamaki Drive, Orakei; homewares and gifts. kellytarltons.co.nz) houses the If you’ve got a fat wallet or just Museum piece … the Auckland War Memorial Museum (above); volleyball country’s only penguin colony, as want to stickybeak, then Gow fun at Mission Bay (opposite page); bird’s-eye view of Waiheke Island well as stingrays, sharks, turtles Langsford Gallery (corner Kitchener (opposite page). and seahorses. and Wellesley Streets; Older kids can tackle the gowlangsfordgallery.co.nz) entertained with flight simulators 19th-century interiors and adrenaline-surging challenges provides ever-changing exhibitions and a mirror maze. furnishings. of Sky Tower (Victoria Street of New Zealand’s best artists. Step back into Victorian Beautiful Auckland Town Hall West; skycityauckland.co.nz), On Saturday mornings, hit Parnell middle-class life at Ewelme (301–317 Queen Street; which includes an outdoor Farmers’ Market (545 Parnell Road, Cottage (14 Ayr Street, Parnell; aucklandlive.co.nz) is a neo- Sky Walk 192 metres above Parnell; parnell.org.nz) for fresh heritage.org.nz), once lived in by Baroque building and frequently street level, and a Sky Jump for frittatas and muffins, organic the fantastically named Blanche hosts the NZ Symphony Orchestra, a quick descent. coffee and a browse through stalls Lush. Built of kauri wood, the choirs, bands and comedians. selling fresh New Zealand produce. house has well-preserved

60 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION City guide: Auckland

SPORTING LIFE ESCAPE Rise early and cycle or jog along Expansive Cornwall Park scenic waterfront route Tamaki (cornwallpark.co.nz) is lined with Drive around Auckland Harbour’s impressive avenues of mature trees eastern bays. You can go as far as and is great for walking and Saint Helliers, though the cafes of picnicking. At its centre is One Tree Mission Bay make for a good Hill, the remnant of an old volcano recuperation point. topped by the remains of Maori Explore (Explore Kiosk, Viaduct fortifications. Harbour; exploregroup.com.au) Take the half-hour ferry ride across offers boat hire, sailing courses the harbour to Waiheke Island and an America’s Cup experience (tourismwaiheke.co.nz), where you’ll on racing yachts. find vineyards, cafes and arts-and- Hire a kayak at Fergs Kayaks (12 crafts stores embedded in a scenic Tamaki Drive, Orakei; fergskayaks. landscape that sometimes seems co.nz) and paddle about yourself almost Mediterranean-like. or join one of several tours, such The Pohutukawa Coast as a half-day trip to volcanic island (pohutukawacoast.co.nz) is a Rangitoto for sunset viewing from getaway destination for its summit. Aucklanders. The scenic coastline is backed by vineyards and forested coast terrific for hiking, mountain biking and bird watching.

May – June 2017 61 TRAVELLER OUR REGION City guide: Auckland

City comforts … the Sofitel Auckland inside and out (left); slow- braised Lebanese-style lamb from Ima Cuisine (right).

PILLOW TALK WATERING HOLES EATS TUCK IN The Great Ponsonby Arthotel Brothers Beer (90 Wellesley Street Glamorous Soul Bar & Bistro New Zealand lamb is internationally (30 Ponsonby Terrace, Ponsonby; West; brothersbeer.co.nz) has (corner Lower Hobson Street and renowned for its quality and is greatpons.co.nz) is a colourful, both a microbrewery providing its Customs Street West, Viaduct one of the country’s top exports, charming B&B decorated with own brews and some 200 other Harbour; soulbar.co.nz) is a great traditionally eaten roasted with New Zealand and Pacific Island boutique beers. Kick back on place for a cocktail and dinner, with seasonal vegetables. But multi- artworks, and is located in a lively couches and play with retro toys. a menu that impresses with fish ethnic dining has turned lamb into evening dining area. Neck of the Woods (155B and vegetarian choices. much more of an adventure in The chic and sleek Pullman Karangahape Road; The French Cafe (210 Symonds recent years. Check out the lamb Auckland (corner Princes Street neckofthewoods.co.nz) is a Street, Eden Terrace; ribs at Depot (86 Federal Street; and Waterloo Quadrant; live-music venue, art gallery and thefrenchcafe.co.nz) delivers eatatdepot.co.nz), the Mongolian pullmanauckland.co.nz) has both bar, and does a great line in superb contemporary NZ cuisine; or Sichuan lamb at Grand spacious rooms and ‘residences’ cocktails and craft beers. The vibe its tasting menu takes you through Harbour (corner Pakenham Street with kitchens, and is a favourite is energetic and fun. delights such as kingfish, smoked and Customs Street West; among visiting business people. Mo’s Bar (5 Federal Street; venison and duck breast. grandharbour.co.nz) or slow braised Sofitel Auckland Viaduct Harbour mosbar.co.nz) is a friendly, popular Chic venue Fish (147 Quay Street, lamb Lebanese style at Ima Cuisine (21 Viaduct Harbour Avenue; after-work joint for classic Princes Wharf; fishrestaurant.co. (57 Fort Street; imacuisine.co.nz). sofitel.com) sits in shimmering cocktails. It’s easy to strike up nz) provides seafood with a view, glass with views onto clouds and a conversation: there’s only room including Cloudy Bay clams, yachts, right on Auckland’s trendy for 20 squeezed-in drinkers. Ora king salmon and freshly waterfront. Don’t pass up the shucked oysters, accompanied chance to tuck into French fare by NZ wines. at Lava Dining. auckland POPULATION: CURRENCY: TAXI FARE FROM INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE: POWER: 1.4 million New Zealand dollar AIRPORT: DIALLING CODE: English, Maori and A three-hole outlet, (NZD); 1 dollar = Around $NZD80 to +64 NZ Sign Language. the same as PNG PGK2.3 the city centre. and Australia.

62 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY

IK PROV EP IN S C T E S A E OUT THERE

Y V TA ILLAGE S Souvenir hunters … t isn’t easy getting to Jerry Gonjuan’s three- tourists buying local handicrafts along room guesthouse, in the remote town of the Sepik River. Ambunti, on the banks of the Sepik River. PICTURES: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY, DAVID KIRKLAND; HAZEL KUTKUE I First, there’s a four-hour bus ride from (stopover village), and Aibam and Chambri, in meals and hired help, such as escorts and Wewak to Pagwi, then a two-hour boat journey the Chambri Lake area (stopover village). drivers. Extra costs are payable to see up river, followed by a three-kilometre walk. Kanganamun has one of the oldest spirit dances and take photos. The Wombun guesthouse sits among palm houses along the Sepik River. It was built in To contact Jerry Gonjuan, phone +675 trees and neatly kept lawns. It has a living the pre-World War 2 days and is three storeys. 71431905 / +675 75433200 or email room and three bedrooms (PGK100 a night Among the interesting features is the carving of [email protected]. n per room). Each room is furnished with the a naked woman sitting at the front of the haus basics – such as beds with mosquito nets, tambaran (a spirit house for sacred rituals). Air Niugini flies daily to fans, table and chairs – and there is running In Aibam, villagers have unique, traditionally Wewak from Madang. water and a diesel generator for power. styled clay pots that are available for sale, See airniugini.com.pg. Meals are cooked by Gonjuan’s wife, there’s a crocodile farm at Yamanumbu, and —HAZEL KUTKUE Regina, and include sweet potatoes, yams in Kamanimbit you can see sago making. and other garden foods, as well as freshly Most villages have haus tambarans and haus caught fish and fruit. bois (a house used for sacred male rituals Gonjuan conducts motorised canoe visits, with total female exclusion) that you can for up to five people, to villages along the visit. Some villages showcase their tumbuna Sepik River. The canoes have woven-cane (traditional) dances, carvings and other art. chairs, bringing a degree of luxury to the Other activities include hiking into low- Jerry Gonjuan river journey. But you’ll need a big sun hat lying hills to see birdlife, including the bird of ... offers for protection from the tropical sun. motorised boat paradise, and going on a crocodile hunt with tours of the Villages that are visited include Wagu villagers. Sepik River. Yamanumbu, Korogu, Palimbe (stopover The guesthouses are primarily made of village), Yenchen, Kanganamun, Kamanimbit traditional materials, but have electricity from generators and water tanks for guest use. The region’s main attraction is the annual Sepik River Crocodile Festival at Ambunti, to be staged this year on August 5–7. (Gonjuan will take visitors to the festival.) His motorised canoe trips start from PGK3415 for one day. The cost includes accommodation in Wombun guesthouse ... four hours by bus, two hours by boat and a three-kilometre walk. guesthouses at stopover villages,

64 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION

REVIEW: CORAL SEA RESORT, SOLOMON ISLANDS coral-sea-resort.com +677 26 288

WHO STAYS? Business people and high- end travellers. HOW BIG? Six luxury villas available now, 30 suites due to be completed in August and a further 60 planned. COST $SBD2400 night for a villa, $SBD1800 for suites. CHECK IN and out 2pm/11am HIGHLIGHTS The villas are breathtaking and the chef at Haydn’s Steakhouse takes his craft very seriously. The bar is fun during the evening and don’t miss the casino. NEARBY The airport is a 20-minute drive, but central Honiara is on the doorstep, LOCATION wants to sit on the sofa and watch the TV including the Botanical Gardens, the National The resorts lies to the west of central Honiara, when the private decked terrace has a jacuzzi Museum, the Point Cruz Yacht Club and but close to everything that the city has to and views over the ocean? Mbonege Beach. offer. The airport is just 20 minutes away and FOOD AND DRINK other attractions are within walking distance. Wi-Fi in rooms/public areas: Good steaks are not always easy to track The hotel has been built back from the main down in the Solomon Islands, so Haydn’s Fee for Wi-Fi: road and looks over manicured lawns leading Steakhouse – named in honour of the owner’s down to a private beach. TV: father – is a welcome addition to the local restaurant scene. And they go the extra mile Air conditioning in room: THE PLACE The five-star Coral Sea Resort only opened to ensure that the prime Australian steaks Ceiling fan in room: in December, so it still has that brand-new are in top condition by having them vacuum Business centre: sparkle. It has an impressive restaurant and packed, instead of frozen, before being bar, a pool for the daytime and casino for imported. The 400-gram T-bone is a feast. Gym: after-dark. Work is continuing on additional The menu also includes a wide selection of Room service: accommodation – although construction was Asian dishes, including Thai green chicken not intrusive during my stay – while there curry and Malaysian laksa curry soup, as well Swimming pool: are plans for a spa, a gym and a bar and as old favourites such as burgers and pizza. Free airport transfers: restaurant over the beach. By the end of this Meals can be served in the restaurant or alongside the pool, while the imminent opening Hotel arranges tours: year, an eight-berth private marina will also be in place, catering for vessels that are passing of the restaurant by the beach will add a new Breakfast included in room charge: through the islands. dimension to dining out. The bar is stocked with everything from familiar friends – an

WHAT GUESTS LIKE ROOMS impressive selection of bourbons – to the The Coral Sea Villas would not be out of place “Excellent location. Very friendly and unusual. And for a local take on a classic, try among accommodation in some of the Pacific’s professional staff, great food and large the Haydn’s Espresso Martini. n better-known high-end travel destinations, selection of drinks. Fantastic architecture including Bali and Hawaii. They have high and —JULIAN RYALL and very spacious.” – Facebook airy ceilings, fully fitted kitchenettes and a Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby “I am currently staying in one of the new shower and bathroom that it is hard to drag to Honiara four times weekly. villas. It is amazing, first class inside and out.” yourself away from. The lounge area is more See airniugini.com.pg. – TripAdvisor than comfortable – but let’s be honest, who

66 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER OUR REGION BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI

Three of a kind … markets

KOKOPO MARKET, PNG UBUD MARKET, INDONESIA EUMUNDI MARKETS, AUSTRALIA Visit buzzing, open-air Kokopo market in In the centre of Bali’s laid-back art capital, Being Australia’s biggest arts and crafts East New Britain – one of the largest markets opposite the Ubud Palace, Ubud market market, this biweekly market really is an in the country – to peruse row upon row of found fame after being featured in the unmissable feature of any trip to Australia’s stalls set up both out on the grass and under Hollywood film Eat, Pray, Love. With a maze Sunshine Coast, and well worth the 90-minute open-sided shelters. You’ll find everything of stalls selling everything from traditional drive from Brisbane. With the tagline ‘make from vegetables, fruit (don’t miss the delicious Balinese carvings, rattan bags, paintings, it, bake it, sew it, grow it’, the market offers young coconuts), live crabs and smoked fish sculptures, silk scarves and trinkets galore, an impressive array of wares from 600 local wrapped in banana leaves, to handmade this is where to head for your Bali souvenir vendors. You’ll find homegrown and homemade cigars, betel nut and its accompaniments shop – especially because most items are food, as well as clothes, art, skincare products, (mustard stick and powdered lime), as well locally produced. homewares and much more. as handicrafts like handwoven grass mats SOMETHING SPECIAL SOMETHING SPECIAL with colourful finishings. Be prepared to bargain, because haggling This market is really more like a festival, with SOMETHING SPECIAL is expected at this market. Some say to halve the music and entertainment being perhaps Returning from a trip to Papua New Guinea the vendor’s first price and go from there, even more enjoyable than the shopping. Two without a bilum is like returning from Paris others to simply decide what the piece is stages play host to live bands, which you can without a beret. You’ll usually find sellers worth to you and try to get the vendor to enjoy, cold-brew coffee in hand, as you groove armed with dozens of these colourful string agree. Either way, try to make it a price that’s on the grass. bags, handmade with a technique similar to fair for you both. DON’T MISS crocheting, towards the front of the market. DON’T MISS Check out the unique, hand-engraved The hardest part will be choosing just one Once you’re done perusing the stalls, wander hardwood signs by John at Larrikin Signs, and from the rainbow of colours and patterns. down Ubud’s flower-strewn streets, checking pick up some cold-pressed macadamia oil at DON’T MISS out small cafes, temples and galleries en Eco Nuts Australia. If the weather’s hot, grab If you can time your visit for a Saturday, do. route. And an Ubud visit wouldn’t be complete some artisan gelato or sorbet at G-Lato. This is when the market is at its busiest without checking out the picture-perfect rice WEBSITE and most exciting, and when you’ll have paddies that the area is famous for. eumundimarkets.com.au; open Wednesday the greatest choice of treats for both your WEBSITE and Saturday. dinner table and home décor. balitourismboard.org; open seven days. WEBSITE tpa.papuanewguinea.travel; open six days a week (closed Sundays).

68 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

TRAVELLER TIME TRAVELLER

time traveller

PNG, 1975

In decades gone by, it was fashionable for companies to produce their own calendars, and Air Niugini was no exception. These two images are from the airline’s 1975 calendar, showing a Fokker F27-200 in flight and a Junkers W34 floatplane taxiing on the Vailala River near Upoia. The images were sent in by avid Paradise reader and collector Paul Jamison from Queensland in Australia. If you have a photo that may be suitable for Time Traveller, email paradise@ businessadvantageinternational.com.

70 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING LIFESTYLE, CULTURE, SPORT, ENTERTAINMENT PICTURES: JEW DARREN

Whale of a time … a Darren Jew snapshot of the giants of the sea. He swims with them with a snorkel and mask.

72 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING PHOTOGRAPHY Encounters with whales Richard Andrews meets a daredevil photographer who swims with whales and has a passionate connection with PNG.

ome people will do anything for a great photo. For Darren Jew, that’s meant facing a charge of eight “bus-sized” whales as they compete for a female mate. S In a heart-stopping sequence, a recent Netflix documentary shows the photographer, equipped only with a mask, snorkel and flippers, swimming among a pod of 30-tonne humpbacks. The Tales by Light documentary was shot in Vava’u, a group of northern islands in Tonga, renowned for their spectacular diving sites, sea-level caves and dramatic limestone cliffs.

May – June 2017 73 LIVING PHOTOGRAPHY Encounters with whales

Darren Jew images … (clockwise from right) on the coast at Rabaul; playtime with whales; evening peace at PNG’s Louisiade Archipelago.

When a whale looks you in the eye that’s quite a profound moment. It’s like no other feeling that I’ve ever had before.

But Jew was too busy to look at the scenery while capturing a rarely photographed ‘heat run’. He credits professional discipline for the ability to remain calm, despite the risk of being accidentally battered by huge, amorous whales. “My mind’s always on the picture, it’s my only focus,” says the award- winning Australian photographer. “I have no hesitation being in the water with the whales. I’m confident they know where I am. They’re very agile and aware of their surroundings.” When diving with whales, Jew prefers to hold his breath and leave scuba gear behind on the boat. He wants to blend in and avoid releasing bubbles, which humpbacks use as a form of defence. “To protect a calf from predators, whales will produce a big stream of bubbles to create confusion,” he says. “When whales are fighting each other, they’ll also blow bubbles to show who’s boss. If you’re wearing scuba, you risk attracting unwanted attention.” Jew’s free-diving approach, plus lots of patience, enabled him to win the confidence of a protective whale and her calf for a lyrical close up of the mother and child. “I first got them used to seeing the boat, then entered the water and slowly approached in stages until they accepted my presence,” he says.

74 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING PHOTOGRAPHY Encounters with whales

“Our encounters could last up to one-and-half hours. “Like us, however, every whale is different and they have moods. Some days they’re not that happy to deal with people and you have to read their behaviour well. Whales can swim really fast!” Jew considers his most memorable encounters with whales are when they swim right up to him out of curiosity. “When a whale looks you in the eye that’s quite a profound moment. It’s like no other feeling that I’ve ever had before.” “It’s an overused expression,” he says, “but I know that when I take other divers swimming with whales it’s a life-changing moment that people talk about well after the encounter.” In fact, since Netflix started screening Tales by Light last November, Jew gets daily messages from viewers saying how that episode has changed the way they look at the world. “It’s very encouraging that photography and the ocean can be so exciting to people,” he says. Photo shoots in the Pacific, Africa, India, the Americas and the Arctic Circle reveal that the Queensland photographer inherited a love of the ocean from his father – an explorer who spent time in Antarctica and kept his diving kit on display in the bedroom, ready for action. “I was fascinated by Dad’s colour slides,” says Jew. “Seeing his scuba tank in the corner showed I could connect to the world of Jacques Cousteau and the men in silver suits that I loved watching on TV. “It all inspired me to do something other than get a job in a bank. I took up diving when I was young and later studied photography in Brisbane.” A primary school friend also shaped Jew’s career and adventures.

May – June 2017 75 LIVING PHOTOGRAPHY Encounters with whales

“I was fascinated by the stories told by a new kid who’d lived in PNG. As a result, I did class projects about the country and learned about its significance in World War 2. The interest lasted and I vividly remember, at the age of 15, seeing a black-and-white picture of Pete in a magazine. Seeing it for real went on my ‘To Do’ list.” Pete was the Allied forces code name of a Mitsubishi biplane sunk in Rabaul Harbour during the Japanese occupation. Jew eventually fulfilled his boyhood ambition when he found the 70-year-old wreck in 30 metres of water, encrusted with coral and home to a vibrant variety of tropical fish. He decided to use a creative photographic technique to paint an iconic image of “an old machine built for death and destruction that now supports life”.

War 'art' … Pete the biplane sunk in Rabaul Harbour.

76 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING PHOTOGRAPHY Encounters with whales

“I opened up the camera and swam around Pete in the dark with reef that a pilot had spotted from a torch. Wherever I pointed the torch got exposed, to produce the air and passed on the GPS the final effect.” coordinates. “What came out of it was a shrine to the horrors of war.” “The entrance was through a cave In addition to his own work, Jew also guides photo cruises and then a tunnel that opened up to to locations such as the Sepik River and the remote Louisiade some fantastic gorgonian coral Archipelago. With its wrecks, reefs and manta rays, the string of and a wonderland of reef life. We volcanic and coral islands boasts some of the region’s best diving may have been the first outsiders and natural wonders. to dive it.” Lying off PNG’s southeastern tip, the largely untouched area The experience confirmed Jew’s receives few tourists, any shops are often a boat ride away and mission to “share the wonders of the much local trading still consists of bartering for goods. ocean through photography so people “Louisiade was a real eye opener,” says Jew . “We stopped at can appreciate and respect them.” islands that see visitors only a couple of times a year. It’s even “Photography makes you consider things a little remote by PNG standards.” longer,” he says. “You have to take your time and study During the trip, Jew and his group explored a spectacular the light. Slowing down helps you see more.”

The light of day … gentle times in Rabaul.

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LIVING KOKODA TRAIL 75 years on PICTURES: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY, TOM CUNNINGHAM; MAT MCLACHLAN KRUMBS KOKODA ALONG CUNNINGHAM; MAT BATTLEFIELD TOURS; TOM AUTHORITY, PROMOTION TOURISM PICTURES: PNG The Kokoda Trail is seen as a pilgrimage by many Australians, with this year’s 75th anniversary of the Kokoda Campaign promising an especially emotional experience. Brian Johnston reports.

80 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING KOKODA TRAIL

he Kokoda Trail is one of the world’s A decade ago, only a few hundred hardy Track Foundation ambassador Will Genia. toughest hiking challenges. Yet every trekkers made the attempt. Now, some 30 This year is the 75th anniversary of the Kokoda year, thousands of ordinary visitors trekking companies offer trips and more than Campaign, which will be especially poignant T(most of them Australian) tackle this 3500 visitors – and sometimes as many as 5000 as the last significant anniversary involving 96-kilometre trek across the Owen Stanley – walk the trail annually. surviving veterans, who are now in their early Ranges from Ower’s Corner in the south to What brings them here isn’t just the physical 90s or older. Kokoda village in the north. and mental challenge but an acknowledgment of PNG Tourism has partnered with the Rugged terrain, hostile rainforest, mud, searing the hardships suffered by Australians and locals Kokoda Track Authority in commemorative humidity and almost daily rainfall provide an during World War 2. It’s considered something activities throughout this year, many of which environment of daunting proportions. It takes of a rite of passage among Australians, were observed recently on Anzac Day (April between six and nine days to conquer the route, providing lessons about courage, sacrifice and 25), Australia’s traditional day of wartime and some give up. endurance. For some, it’s also a re-enactment remembrance.

The physical challenge is immense and only of one of the defining episodes in Australian Memorial services are also planned at Ela a few notches short of advanced survival skills. history, and especially emotional for those who Beach for PNG’s National Remembrance Day “The terrain is extreme, with lots of steep had relatives involved in the Kokoda Campaign. (July 23) and at Kokoda Station on the northern ascents and descents, and many river and log “When you trek Kokoda you step into end of the trail on Kokoda Day (November 3), crossings,” explains Michele Eckersley of World history and feel a connection with the Aussie which marks the date on which Kokoda was Expeditions. “Much of the ground is muddy and soldiers who fought there. But you also feel recaptured from the Japanese. Memorial can be slippery, and accommodation is in remote a connection with the people of Papua New services will also take place at Bomana War jungle camps. It’s a must-do trek for those who Guinea who live in communities along the track Cemetery, Isurava Battlefield Memorial and want to test their limits.” today,” says rugby union player and Kokoda Ower’s Corner.

Kokoda moments … an arch marking the trail* (opposite page); trekkers on a hill descent (above left); a statue at McDonald’s Corner (above centre); getting feet wet on one of many creek crossings along the trail (above right). *The official name is the Kokoda Trail, however many organisations and veterans refer to it as Kokoda Track.

May – June 2017 81 LIVING KOKODA TRAIL 75 years on

Though interest in the Kokoda Trail has been growing steadily over the last two decades, the anniversary year has sparked another surge in interest. Tour and trekking companies are marking the 75th anniversary with special tours.

Though interest in the Kokoda Trail has been A poignant reminder of war … the Bomana growing steadily over the last two decades, War Cemetery (top); the anniversary year has sparked another surge a bridge with a high in interest. degree of difficulty (above); the Isurava “All Kokoda Tour Operator Association Battlefield Memorial members, who represent approximately 75 per where a special cent of the market, have indicated a significant service will take place increase in their bookings for this year,” says (right). Peter Miller, managing director of No Roads Expeditions. “We’re expecting an increase of 25 per cent on 2016 numbers, or around 4000 trekkers this year.” Tour and trekking companies are marking the 75th anniversary with special tours. Some were focused on Anzac Day to include its memorial services, but many others are continuing throughout the year and will include events at Bomana and Isurava.

82 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING KOKODA TRAIL 75 years on

Rugged landscape … a view from the 96-kilometre trail of jungle and forbidding mountains.

No Roads Expeditions might be offering the Escape Trekking Adventures and World Especially notable this year, however, is most demanding of these, running a gruelling Expeditions have 75th anniversary tours in the introduction of tours that don’t involve ‘Kokoda Back to Back’ return trek in both late August that include two days in the trekking, which allow a whole new group of the northerly and southerly directions, over northern beach villages of Gona, Sanananda travellers to visit this Papua New Guinean 15 days, for the undaunted. Also in July, and Buna, where Japanese troops first landed region. Escape Trekking Adventures and its ‘March to Kokoda Re-enactment’ and where the final stages of the campaign Kokoda Treks & Tours have an early August will follow in the footsteps of the 39th played out. PNG Trekking Adventures is rolling commemoration tour that visits both ends Australian Infantry Battalion’s B Company. out a ‘Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel Kokoda Trail 75th of the trail and other destinations of wartime Participants will wear historically accurate Anniversary Trek’ in late October, timed to significance, accompanied by a military military attire, eat army rations and camp include services associated with Kokoda Day historian. at the same sites as the wartime unit. on November 3.

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LIVING KOKODA TRAIL 75 years on

Welcome … locals selling bakery items to trekkers through the Krumbs Along Kokoda charity (above left); meeting some of the locals during a breather on the trail (above right). It can be extended to Milne Bay, another anniversary tour in late October, without the war sites in Port Moresby. On November 3, significant theatre in the Allied conflict with need for hiking. It visits Ower’s Corner by four- the group will commemorate the anniversary the Japanese. wheel drive, the battlefields and memorials of the recapture of Kokoda with a ceremonial Mat McLachlan Battlefield Tours is also in the region of Kokoda village, and the flag-raising on the same spot Australian troops running a special seven-day Kokoda Trail beachhead battlefields near Gona, as well as raised their flag in 1942.

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LIVING KOKODA TRAIL 75 years on

The Kokoda Campaign explained One good deed …

For Australians, the Kokoda Campaign Charities in the Kokoda Trail region have was the most important battle of World long been inspired to repay the historical War 2. In early 1942, Singapore had fallen, help given to Australians by Papua Darwin on the Australian mainland had New Guineans. “Because of our shared been bombed and the Japanese army had history, the legacy of World War 2 and landed at Rabaul. the support Australia received during the Kokoda Campaign, we support PNG By July 21, the Japanese had communities to overcome some of the established a beachhead at Gona on the tremendous challenges they face today,” north coast of Papua with the intention says Genevieve Nelson, executive director of taking Port Moresby from the north of the Kokoda Track Foundation (KTF), one by traversing the Owen Stanley Ranges. of the charities operating in the region. From here, the Japanese could launch a bombing offensive against Queensland KTF runs sustainable, community- or an invasion of Australia, which was owned programs that target healthcare, almost completely undefended. education, livelihoods and leadership projects across five provinces in PNG. With the majority of Australian forces Among them, it builds classrooms and operating in the Middle East, it was aid posts, trains teachers and health young, inexperienced, under-trained and workers and delivers solar energy to outnumbered Australian soldiers who remote villages. were tasked with preventing the Japanese advance. They succeeded with the crucial Many trekking companies engage support of PNG locals, affectionately in charitable work, too. PNG Trekking nicknamed the ‘Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels’, who Adventures, for example, has a kept open a supply chain of ammunition, partnership with PNG Trading to run food and other supplies and evacuated Krumbs along Kokoda, a charity that has wounded soldiers along what would equipped villagers with ovens so they can become known as the Kokoda Trail. make and sell baked goods to trekkers, providing a sustainable income for their Although the Japanese came within community. 40 kilometres of Port Moresby, they were slowly pushed back north. By January, Sponsored trekkers also tackle the 1943, the Japanese advance had been Kokoda Trail to raise funds for charitable repulsed. A thousand Australian soldiers organisations, while a portion of the were wounded and 625 killed. Some money raised through the trek-permit 1300 Papuans and 4500 Japanese also system is also given to local communities. perished in the campaign. Villagers, too, see benefits through employment as trail workers, porters and suppliers of goods, bringing much-needed income to villages along the Kokoda Trail that would never otherwise encounter tourists. Water crossing … trekkers make their way into a village, one of many along the way.

88 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING PHOTO ESSAY LAE SNAPSHOT Photographer Milen Stiliyanov has captured these images of his home city. Text by Marisa Howden. ucked away in the Huon Gulf is Papua New Guinea’s second-largest city, Lae. With the country’s largest port facilities and a host of manufacturers calling it home, TLae has been deemed PNG’s industrial capital. PICTURES: STILIYANOV MILEN

90 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING PHOTO ESSAY

Safe harbour … the Lae Yacht Club (opposite page); Lae’s best-kept secret, Salamaua (left); on the shore at Salamaua (below).

Lae was established during the 1920’s gold rush as a supply base for the Wau goldfields and was later occupied by the Japanese in World War 2 as one of their strategic bases against the allies. In 1937, Lae was the last stop for pioneer American aviator Amelia Earhart as part of her round-the-world expedition, after which Lae of the land … (clockwise, sadly she was never seen again, going missing from above left) the city’s main somewhere in the Pacific. business district; Lae lit up; one of the locals; the Lae Yacht Club, Today, Lae is a thriving town well serviced which provides one of the city’s by major retail outlets, restaurants, hotels, main watering holes. banks and local trade stores, establishing itself as a buzzing metropolis. Also considered the gateway to the Highlands, Lae has the only road network that connects the major agriculture and resource

May – June 2017 91 LIVING PHOTO ESSAY Lae snapshot

Star attraction … Laukanu has beautiful swimming, snorkelling and diving and is a day trip from Lae.

rich centres of Goroka and Mount Hagen to the rest of the country. While some might baulk at Lae’s mixed reputation, they need to see beyond the hype for what it really is – a bustling, tropical city and the heart of PNG’s economy. Just an hour from Lae by boat is one of the city’s best-kept secrets, Salamaua. A tiny isthmus, it was once the capital of the Morobe Province and a base for Australia during the war. Incredible snorkelling, diving and fishing can be found in and around Salamaua, as well as the wider Huon Gulf, with destinations such as Laukanu and the Tami Islands less than two hours away.

92 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING FASHION

Dusk Devi reports on the thriving fashion industry in Fiji and gives her tips on where to Fiji flair buy the best threads.

iji is a premier destination for holidays, a thriving fashion industry that has been alive The garment industry is certainly serious coconuts, seashells, flowers in your for more than 50 years and goes way beyond business here, with globally renowned hair, crystal-clear water, sandy beaches the island prints. companies such as Kookai Australia and Gap Fand cocktails at sunset ... and that The country has iconic fashion brands, manufacturing their wares in Fiji. ubiquitous island print on everything from designer boutiques, a fashion council, Nadi, where all the great hotels are, is not T-shirts to sarongs. The hieght of tropical prestigious fashion events, such as Style Fiji, quite as sophisticated in its fashion offering fashion? Not quite. and top models who are household names. as Suva. Fiji may not be the first country that comes The model on these pages, Sandhya, has to mind when thinking about fashion, but it has been one of Fiji’s most famous since the 80s.

Breezy fashions … leading Fiji designs (from left) Aisea Konrote; Myra Fiji; Naina and Zilda Silks. PICTURES: DUSK DEVI

94 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING FASHION

The country (Fiji) has iconic fashion brands, designer boutiques, a fashion council, prestigious fashion events and top models.

May – June 2017 95 LIVING FASHION Fiji flair

Off the shoulder … an Aisea gown with Also, don’t miss Pacific Island Arts, a custom headpiece by IkelArts (this page); which has successfully created a Zilda Silks (opposite page). fusion brand of traditional prints and sexy, modern silhouettes for men and women. Suva is hardly ever more than a day trip for Nearby, Aladdin’s Cave has a most visitors, which is a shame because the treasure chest of international and fashion shopping options are endless – from local designers, a dazzling array of shops that stock imported street fashion and fashion, run by a powerhouse Fijian coveted labels, to boutiques specialising in businesswoman Elaine Taylor. local designers, department stores, Indian However, Nadi is catching up and wear houses and even trendy recycled and now it is where the savvy fashionistas vintage clothing stores. of Fiji are shopping and opening their Among the highly recommended shops in shops. Like Pineapple Boutique at Port Suva is the Treehouse Boutique at Damodar Denarau Marina, which stocks a range City (approximately 15 minutes away by car of upmarket local designs. Be aware from the CBD), which stocks its own brand, that prices are not cheap here, but combining colourful prints with structured you’re not here looking for bargains, design that can be worn for work or leisure. you’re looking for quality. At Tappoo City, in the CBD, you will find Speaking of quality, Nadi-based Robert Kennedy’s urban-wearable tropical House of Design Fiji was started by two styles and ensembles.

96 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING FASHION Fiji flair stalwarts of the Fiji fashion industry – Zelda Zuber, too, mixes up unexpected Thomas (ex top model, one of Fiji’s top combinations of traditional and edgy. designers, co-producer of the prestigious Aisea Konrote is the Valentino of the Style Fiji) and Fuzz Ali (chairperson of the Pacific, sensual, versatile gowns that Fashion Council of Fiji, fashion stylist and compliment women of all ages. AK and magazine editor) – who envisioned it as an Naina are the two designers whose incubator for existing designers, a showcase designs translate well globally. for established designers and something for Other designers to look out for, but newbies to aspire to. not in boutiques, are Anton Conway It has the best Fiji fashion designers Wye, Kuiviti Couture and Myra Fiji, the brands, including Naina, Zilda, Morgan-Rose, latter a new avant-garde label with an Samson Lee, Aisea Konrote and Zuber, exciting vision. as well as artists like Smashing Art and Coming soon to House of Design Penelope Casey. boutique is PNG’s own Iyara, which Veteran designers like Naina and Zilda has been winning accolades from have been delivering seasonal resort Port Moresby to Sydney to Singapore. collections and signature staples for over Fiji has a plethora of pleasure two decades, while newer designers like to offer. Add fashion shopping to Samson Lee pay homage to iconic names that list and be sure to take an like Tiki Togs but with a modern twist and empty suitcase. ethnic fusion.

May – June 2017 97 LIVING SPOTTED IN

Geoff Ila … with two students from the Hohola Youth Development Centre that benefits from the work of Tribal Foundation. IN … C ED OL TT O O R P A S D

O C

H Medicine man A 12,129km R This Papua New Guinean has settled in the US where I T Y A IL he sources donations of medical supplies for PNG. Kevin M A F N OF McQuillan reports. AGER, GE

o man is an island, noted the It has an impressive list of achievements. English poet John Donne in 1624, Last December, for example, the foundation and in the non-profit, healthcare I take care of the logistics and ExxonMobil PNG brought four containers Nsector, partnerships are the key to of medical supplies to Port Moresby General success, according to Geoff Ila, partnership for our medical containers and Lae’s Angau Memorial hospitals. development manager with the PNG Tribal The medical supplies in Lae were primarily Foundation. to PNG, working closely for the children’s ward and included much- Founded by Goroka-born GT Bustin in 2009, with our partners here needed consumables, as well as equipment the foundation has formed more than 40 like incubators for premature babies. partnerships with donors and recipients with in the US to ensure much- A key player in this process is Ila, born in a focus on providing medical supplies in needed medical supplies Port Moresby, raised in Lae and educated at hospitals and remote health centres in PNG. Toowoomba Grammar School, Queensland. (GT had earlier co-founded Samaritan Aviation, reach PNG. “I started working with PNG Tribal in 2012,” now providing East Sepik Province with he tells Paradise. “When I first started working emergency evacuation flights, the delivery with PNG Tribal Foundation my job consisted of of medical supplies, and health programs.) working with the partners that Tribal provides

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LIVING SPOTTED IN Medicine man support to and invests in – non-profit groups such as Life PNG, Hohola Youth Development Centre and Cheshire DisAbility Services to name a few. “I would assess what their needs were for support and source partners that could meet those needs. “I now take care of the logistics for our medical containers to PNG, working closely with our partners here in the US to ensure much-needed medical supplies reach PNG. “I am also currently overseeing our social media department, researching and sourcing the needs of Tribal to better serve our people in PNG.” Ila says he came to the US “by default”. In 2000, his two-year-old daughter, Jamie, was having health issues. At the time, he and his family were in Kenya on a six-week mission trip. They called in to the US on the way home, so Jamie could have a check- up. They ended up staying – and it’s been 17 years. Ila’s wife, Megan, is originally from Montrose, Colorado. They met and married in Lae. Like many non-Americans, Ila finds Americans genuine, friendly, generous and kind. “Being born and raised in my homeland PNG means I was raised in community/family. “It may not be the thing that is done here in the US, but I always give people respect despite their appearance, skin colour, background, or heritage. I was taught that in order to gain respect, you first give respect. In the field … Geoff Ila at work for PNG Tribal Foundation. Whether, it’s given back to me or not, is not my issue.” Before he came to the US, he worked with Youth With A Mission PNG (YWAM) for several years. Prayer has been an important part of his life. “We would pray for the government, for issues such as gender-based violence, for our young people, for the infant mortality rate, which is still one of the highest in the world along with so many other needs that this nation has.” Travel is part of his job, sometimes to accompany supplies to PNG. And in the US, Ila goes to gatherings to explain Tribal to the estimated 90–100 wantoks living in the US. “This generates a lot of interest in the programs we run and creates an opportunity for our people here in the US to partner with us in investing in PNG.” The couple has four children: Teira 21, Jamie 19, Shae 15, and their only boy, Tayne, who is 13. Visiting PNG is important and they visit every chance they get. “Although I miss my homeland, living in the US has offered a lot of perspective,” Illa says. “There are a few things I would like to see develop in PNG that I see here. The first thing is the respect and recognition given to women, and also allowing women to have a voice. “I believe much of the success that the US has reaped in history is because of their proper treatment of women and seeing women as an integral part of this nation’s foundation and growth. “I sit here in my office in Montrose, Colorado, of all places and marvel at the fact that I am actually an answer to my own prayers. Yes, I believe the little work I do makes a significant impact in Papua New Guinea, the nation I love and call my own.”

100 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING GADGETS BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI Gadgets and travel accessories

Keychain charger No matter how organised you are, there’s bound to be a situation when you forget your phone charger. That’s where Nomad Key steps in, a house key-sized device made from tough high-grade polycarbonate and rubber elastomer that sits on your keychain and connects your phone directly to any USB port for instant charge. About PGK64; hellonomad.com.

Winter jacket Leather wash bag Smart watch Safe passport wallet For those times when you only Handsome wash bags are few Ever considered travelling without Sure, there are countless good- want to bring one jacket with and far between. Thank goodness, your phone or wallet? Well, now you looking travel wallets on the market. you, sustainable adventure brand then, for Australian outback brand can, because the Samsung Gear S3 But what makes this Samsonite Cotopaxi’s Pacaya insulated jacket R.M. Williams, which has crafted Frontier lets you call, text, browse one a bit wow is the embedded may be your best friend. It’s a shell this timeless 100 per cent leather apps and emails, listen to music, metallic layer that protects your and insulating layer in one good- wash bag, with a tough zip, press- and use GPS tracking and Samsung RFID (the chip in your passport looking package. Complete with stud side straps, nylon lining and Pay right from your wrist. You don’t and credit cards that transfers two zippered hand pockets and internal pocket to keep your bits have to compromise on style, either information wirelessly) from an interior zippered chest pocket, and pieces organised, no matter – with its twisting bezel and chic unauthorised readers, which it’s a purchase you don’t have how fast you’re moving. black and red analog face, it has the sneaky thieves can use to swipe to feel guilty about either, since About PGK410; rmwilliams.com. look and feel of a premium watch. your data just by walking by you some of the brand’s profits go About PGK1446; samsung.com. in an airport, or on the street. to alleviating global poverty. About PGK145; samsonite.com. About PGK570; cotopaxi.com.

102 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine LIVING GADGETS

Solar charger Portable speaker If you’re planning on getting lost in the wilderness The sturdy, wireless Yatra Aquatune 9612 for a few days, but still want some of your phone portable Bluetooth speaker pumps high-quality functions for emergencies, the lightweight BioLite audio out of a completely weatherproof, Solar Panel 5+ will power your phone or tablet, dustproof, shockproof and fun design, so you can giving you access to maps and other necessary take a soundtrack with you wherever you are. travel tools. The integrated sundial helps you Especially since the rubber hoop means you can align most effectively to the sun for maximum attach the compact speaker to your backpack, charge, the 360-degree kickstand makes it easy bike or belt loop with a carabiner. About PGK211; to position on bumpy ground, and the battery shopyatra.com. stores unused power for later. About PGK361; bioliteenergy.com.

Theft-proof backpack The cleverly designed Presli Voyager backpack does its darndest to stop bag snatchers and pick- pocketers from snatching your valuables. Crafted Wireless earbuds from slash-resistant material and with a reverse Trust a Swedish company to come up with zipper that sits against your back, it also includes these new minimalist, wireless earbuds. nice features for business travellers, including a Using Bluetooth to capture audio with minimal Mobile stabiliser 15-inch laptop sleeve, another for A4 documents, distortion and a tight bass, the Earin M-1 buds The video cameras on mobile phones are a business-card holder and pen holders. Comes are crafted from super-comfortable, supple foam excellent quality these days, often equipped in navy blue or black. About PGK169; presli.co. to keep unwanted noise out and the earbuds in. with image stabilisation and 4K, but none of that Being the smallest, lightest wireless buds around, really matters if there’s still the issue of unsteady they only have three hours of battery life – but hands. Luckily, the DJI Osmo Mobile cradles your they come with a chic aluminium charging case mobile in a three-axis gimbal to turn wobbly shots that will get you through your next long-haul and shaky pans into smooth, steady sweeps flight. About PGK632; earin.com. worthy of the silver screen. It even has a tracking feature that stays focused on your subject as you move. Available in black or silver, to match your device. About PGK1,234; store.dji.com.

Pocket keyboard An urgent email pings through that requires an in-depth response, but you only have your phone and spend the next 30 minutes working up a sweat battling autocorrect. Maybe not, though, if you have the Zagg keyboard in your jacket pocket, which, when unfolded and attached, instantly transforms your phone into a laptop. About PGK175; zagg.com.

May – June 2017 103 LIVING MOVIES BY GREG CLARKE

The Eagle Huntress Viceroy’s House The Trip to Spain This movie was born after director Otto Bell Hugh Bonneville, who played Robert Crawley, Esteemed and prolific director Michael saw an image of a girl and her eagle on the Earl of Grantham in Downton Abbey, and Winterbottom follows up movies The Trip and internet, and then promptly flew to Mongolia the renowned Gillian Anderson, Michael The Trip to Italy, and has Steve Coogan and to find out more about her. Gambon and Manish Dayal, lead the cast of Rob Brydon again playing semi-fictionalised The result of Bell’s admirable inquisitiveness this drama written and directed by Gurinder versions of themselves. and daring – he’d never made a movie Chadha, who is perhaps best known for his Coogan is a British actor and, just as before committing to make the film using movie Bend It Like Beckham. importantly for this role, a stand-up his own funds – is an extraordinary Viceroy’s House in Delhi was the home comedian. Popular Welshman Brydon documentary about Aisholpan, the young of the British rulers of India. For six months shares a good part of Coogan’s CV – as girl whose desire to hunt proves stronger in 1947, Lord Mountbatten assumed the an actor he also effortlessly lends his talents than the views of the male elders who try post of the last viceroy, charged with handing to comedy. to block her path. India back to its people. In this journey of The Trip series, Bell manages to film Aisholpan on a Mountbatten (played by Bonneville) lived restaurants, gentle bickering and remarkable journey: from taking a fledgling upstairs with his wife and daughter, while impersonations feature as much as the duo’s eagle from its nest the film soars all the downstairs lived 500 Hindu, Muslim and peregrinations through the Basque region, way to where Aisholpan enters the Golden Sikh servants. Cantabria, Aragon, Rioja, Castile-La Mancha Eagle Festival in Olgii, a nomad festival won As the political elite took their seats and Andalusia. previously by her father. upstairs to wrangle over the birth of Coogan and Brydon also do their best It’s hard not to be inspired by this incredible independent India and Pakistan, conflict to fill up on the food, but somehow tale and the cinematic beauty but this is erupted throughout the house. manage to leave plenty of room for fun and also a story of a father and a daughter and In a moment of history long forgotten, frivolity. Winterbottom’s comedy is suitably their love. a decision was taken that continues to mouth-watering. This highly praised and beautifully shot film reverberate throughout the world. is narrated by Star Wars actor Daisy Ridley. Port Moresby’s Paradise Cinema screens many of our reviewed movies. For screening dates and session times see paradisecinemaspng.com.

104 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

LIVING BOOKS BY GREG CLARKE

Beijing Smog (Matador), by Ian Home (Text), edited by John The World Tea Encyclopaedia Williams Freeman (Troubador), by Will Battle This novel about deception centres around John Freeman is an award-winning American For almost 20 years, Will Battle has been the story of an image that, posted online as writer and book critic who was the editor-in- tasting teas and creating blends for tea lovers a joke, goes viral and ends up threatening the chief of literary magazine Granta. all over the world. He has lived and worked ruling Communist Party. The third volume of his biannual journal alongside tea producers in Asia and Africa and There are three central characters. One series explores the universal theme of ‘home’. here he gives an in-depth look at the wealth is a 21-year-old Chinese blogger who lives Freeman includes stories from emerging of teas on offer to those who love to infuse in a world found through his smartphone; writers and literary luminaries alike, and and brew. another is a delusional British businessman while this work is American-centric – in the According to Battle, chest loads of teas still selling the China Miracle even as it sense that many of the contributors now are still undiscovered. He sheds light on crumbles around him, and there is the live in the US – the breadth of their interests the wealth of variety in tea and debunks cyber-spy-chasing American diplomat. are commendably diverse. the snobbishness and doctrine that can Rumour, and the Communist Party leaders’ Viet Thanh Nguyen, a Vietnamese American scare off newcomers from the joys of tea lack of humour, also play their parts in the novelist, offers a haunting piece of fiction connoisseurship. novel but the triumvirate of main characters about those fleeing Vietnam after the war. The book will help enthusiasts navigate collide and it threatens lives and that of the Rabih Alameddine, born in Amman, leaves the sometimes complex world of tea as well Party as well. his mother’s Beirut apartment to connect as educate, inspire and feed a new world Beijing’s smoggy streets, Shanghai’s historic with Syrian refugees who are rebuilding of tea-drinking enjoyment. For those who Bund, the casinos of Macau and the grim a semblance of normalcy, even beauty. Nir know little of the vagaries of tea there is also factories of southern China play their part in Baram takes readers on a journey to the West the opportunity to submit to curiosity and this thriller’s satirical look at the sometimes Bank. Gerald Murnane celebrates winning jump into a world of discovery. confounding world that is modern China. a literary prize named after his hometown, The World Tea Encyclopaedia contains Ian Williams has lived in and reported from while Xiaolu Guo reflects on her childhood in beautiful images and detailed maps of tea- Asia for more than 20 years. For the last a remote Chinese fishing village. producing countries, and no less importantly nine years, he has covered Asia and China The stories may be diverse but all answer shows readers that there is life beyond a for NBC News. central questions: what is it to build, leave, discount tea bag. return to, lose, and love a home?

106 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

MADE IN PNG SPECIAL FEATURE OUR COUNTRY, OUR REGION, OUR WORLD Locally made PNG manufacturers produce a diverse number of products, from baskets to beer, and they have proved to be a resilient lot, David James reports.

hether it is steel construction Coffee, vanilla beans, carved animals materials, processed fish, or and wildlife books are all on offer, baskets, Papua New Guinea showing just how diverse the PNG culture Wmanufacturers produce a wide of making things is. range of products. Chey Scovell, chief executive of the Some are for direct consumption, while others Manufacturers Council of PNG, says PNG provide essential support to communities manufacturers are proving to be resilient. throughout the country. “We have five new indigenous manufacturers PNG manufacturers also display great located throughout the Highlands. versatility in order to adapt to the continuously “That is something we have never really changing economic circumstances. had before: people taking value-added and A quick glance at what is on offer at Port manufacturing industries of a significant scale Moresby’s Jacksons International Airport into the heartland where people are. It is really departure terminal indicates the versatility. positive. The offerings range from traditional “A lot of the fast-moving consumer goods handicrafts to themed items that reflect (FMCGs) are where the local manufacturers village life and culture – from the Highlands are really going gangbusters – and smallgoods to the islands. manufacturers as well.”

108 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine MADE IN PNG SPECIAL FEATURE

PNG at work … the country produces everything from bread, to paint and beer.

PNG has enormous natural advantages, which is a big opportunity for food processors. This can be seen, for example, in the fisheries sector. Alan McLay, president of the Lae Chamber of Commerce, describes Lae’s established fish canneries as a shining light, especially the tuna canneries relying on stock from Morobe waters.” He says a new cannery will be built soon, showing “the strength of the industry”. Stan Joyce, managing director of SP Brewery, PNG’s largest brewer, says cyclical economic swings can challenge PNG manufacturers, but he says that for those who persist the rewards are great. “We have a lot more than before we started out on this wonderful journey.”

May – June 2017 109 MADE IN PNG SPECIAL FEATURE

By the end of 2017, we’ll be up and running with coconut cooking oil and we’ll be giving Indonesia a run for its money with its cheap imports coming into PNG. ON A ROLL Thriving enterprise … Ernestine Maxtone- Graham (above); her range of coconut soaps Kevin McQuillan reports on a PNG coconut (opposite page). enterprise that is poised to go international.

n early 2015, Ernestine Maxtone-Graham The wife and husband team chose to base Farmers are able to see what is happening returned to PNG to join her husband, Mungo, themselves in Port Moresby because it would to their product and can be trained to produce with the intention of developing a business, be easier to process, market and ship from the higher-quality coconut. IMaxtoneHaus, based on the increasing capital. But that is about to change. “All villagers know how to grow coconuts, demand for coconut products. “One of the continuous challenges is having but not all know how to grow them properly,” “I was coming back to PNG and I wanted to get consistent supply. We’re now at the stage of she says. involved with coconut because I used coconut- deciding to relocate closer to the source of The processing will done in Kimbe and there based products while we lived in Australia,” supplies. will be a warehouse in Port Moresby. New Ireland-born Maxtone-Graham says. “So, we will be based in Kimbe (in West New MaxtoneHaus products are sold throughout They started their coconut oil processing Britain) by the end of the second half of the PNG through City Pharmacy Limited (CPL), plant at Kanudi in Port Moresby in June, 2015, year. That will prove another challenge, because A Little Something From PNG at Jacksons buying copra from local farmers along the getting the products out of Kimbe is not easy, as International Airport and into North coastal villages in the Abau District of the there aren’t as many ships coming to Moresby Queensland through the Ibis supermarket chain. Central Province, about a five-hour drive from from there.” Maxtone-Graham says CPL founder, Mahesh the capital. Moving to Kimbe will not just cut down Patel, gave her good advice and encouragement. “We started buying coconuts which had travel time; being closer to the source of “Before we actually started production we been sun-dried, but now we buy whole her raw materials means she can ensure talked to him about how we could enter the coconuts which we hot-air dry ourselves. consistent quality. market with our range.” They come de-husked. The shell is used for “We’re getting coconut from a variety of farmers Their initial range includes oils and soaps, fuel, the meat is pressed for oil and when and, if we are closer to the source, we know although Maxtone-Graham says she is planning we’ve finished, the meal that comes out is where the coconut is coming from. We can also on two new products by the end of 2017: sold to piggeries. No wastage.” liaise with the Coconut Industry Corporation.” coconut cooking oil and coconut ointment.

110 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine MADE IN PNG SPECIAL FEATURE

“Coconut oil has a lot of medicinal properties. Within the next five years, she hopes to be I’m not going to say it will cure diabetes, but it a big manufacturer of coconut cooking oil and has been used as an ointment.” ointments throughout the Pacific. She says coconut oil contains lauric acid and “By the end of 2017, we’ll be up and running monolaurin, which can kill harmful pathogens like with coconut cooking oil and we’ll be giving bacteria, viruses and fungi. When applied to the Indonesia a run for its money with its cheap skin, coconut oil offers protection from microbial imports coming into PNG.” infections that can get into open wounds. PNG ranks as the world’s seventh producer “It may be possible to use it as an ointment, of coconuts, according to figures for 2014. particularly in villages where medicines are hard It produces 1.2 million tonnes annually, behind to come by,” she says. Indonesia, which tops the rankings with “We’re planning to take our products 18.3 million tonnes, followed by the Philippines internationally. We’ll take our products to with 1.35 million tonnes. the Pasifika Festival and, once people hear Total world supply of coconut was 61.4 million about MaxtoneHaus, we’ll get the sales,” tonnes in 2014, according to the Food and she confidently predicts. Agriculture Organisation of the UN. She believes PNG has the potential to capitalise on the global shortage of coconuts, which is the result of a major boom in coconut consumption around the world, the long- term effect of natural disasters and demand outstripping the pace of coconut trees’ growth.

May – June 2017 111 MADE IN PNG SPECIAL FEATURE

Ela Motors is at the forefront of MOTORING delivering Yamaha boats and Toyota mini buses in PNG. AHEAD David James reports.

All aboard … PNG’s ubiquitous ’23-footer’ is a key mode of transport in PNG.

We have in excess of a 90 per cent market share (in PNG) for boats and outboard motors. Together with the boat, Yamaha Enduro Outboards are the most popular model in PNG with their durability and reliability.

n Papua New Guinea, the ‘23-footer’ is the Two years ago, says Ela Motors chief “We had several meetings with the NMSA standard water craft for coastal and inter- executive officer Takeshi Abe, discussions were to clarify the requirements, then we asked island travel – a critical mode of transport for held with the National Marine Safety Authority Yamaha to design the new dinghy boat to match Ithe many communities that reside along its (NMSA) on the new regulations coming up in them,” he says. 5150-kilometre coastline. For years, Ela Motors PNG for boat safety. In terms of the number of units produced, he has sold the market-leading boat, supplied by This led to the introduction of new safety says the project is currently Yamaha’s biggest global giant Yamaha. equipment and other changes. in the world.

112 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine MADE IN PNG SPECIAL FEATURE

We loaded the boat up with people and then flooded it. Even fully flooded, it fully meets safety requirements.

Abe says there was a particular focus on the The boats should have eight passengers and something that the passengers can stay in for 23-foot boats staying afloat in all conditions. are supplied with eight life jackets. But they have a while until the rescue comes.” “They wanted the boat to still be intact floating been tested with more than 18 people. “We did Abe says Ela Motors has a technical whilst it was in the water with people inside testing with people in it and then filled up with assistance agreement with Yamaha. it. So, we loaded the boat up with people and the water to see if it still floated,” says Abe. “We appoint the manufacturer and we then flooded it. Even fully flooded, with people “This is what the NMSA was requesting. appoint the factory,” he says. Ela Motors in it, it fully meets their requirements.” Whenever water comes into the boat they want is the retailer.

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May – June 2017 113 MADE IN PNG SPECIAL FEATURE Motoring ahead

The boats are made by a company called Coaster is the most popular people-moving Samarai Plastics (Samplas), which is making vehicle in PNG. more than 1000 fibreglass boats a year. He In the new Coaster model, he says, the interior says the factory was in Alotau, but it got burned and design will change. down in October of 2016. Samplas is currently “Everything is different. Toyota makes buses making the boats in a temporary shed. specifically for PNG conditions. In the factory “Ela Motors is now setting up a new factory in in Japan, there is a production line specifically Lae, which Samplas will move into and be the reserved for the buses for PNG. Toughening up … Ela Motors is bringing a manufacturer. By August or October of this year, “To stop the torsion twist because of the new 25-seater mini bus to PNG with a reinforced we should be able to return to full production. condition of the PNG roads, it is necessary to body frame. “We have in excess of a 90 per cent market reinforce the bus body frame,” explains Abe. share (in PNG) for boats and outboard motors. “It is the toughest Coaster Toyota makes.” Together with the boat, Yamaha Enduro The new model will also have a reinforced roof Outboards are the most popular model in PNG to prevent it caving in if the bus rolls over. Abe with their durability and reliability. says Toyota will also be supplying a 30-seater “Our 15 dealerships country-wide, will also bus, which has the Land Cruiser six-cylinder support the customers by providing necessary engine. service and spare parts,” says Abe. Ela Motors will also be bringing a new 25-seater bus to the market, called the Toyota Coaster. Abe says the company currently enjoys an 84 per cent market share in the segment.

114 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine MADE IN PNG SPECIAL FEATURE

A steel will to grow market share PNG’s steel industry is burgeoning, according to an industry executive. David James reports. dapting to different McQuoid says that even on a “They know when they come to economic conditions is more modest scenario, 10–15 per our company they can pay for their the key to manufacturing cent growth is feasible. product in PNG kina. Ain Papua New Guinea, McQuoid says the sector is “Every day I go to the shop says Frank McQuoid, chairman of burgeoning. “You can stand at the floor I am proud of what we steel fabricator, Steel Industries. airport and look out and you can can do. We can do it, we have He says the PNG metal trades see a whole new city out there: done it, we are doing it. We are industry has about 20 per cent of 5000 new houses.” making a competitive product the domestic market and there is He says he is hopeful that to international standards and great potential for this proportion the government will look to we are doing it with Papua New to rise. protect the sector. He says Guineans. I am proud to achieve it “If we can get a bigger chunk of being a local manufacturer has in my life time.” the market there is an opportunity, advantages in an environment without any growth whatsoever, where foreign exchange can be to be five times as large as we hard to get. Frank McQuoid … “being a local are now.” manufacturer has advantages”.

May – June 2017 115 STRICTLY BUSINESS from www.businessadvantagepng.com PICTURE: STEPHEN RAEPICTURE:

Paga Hill … when finished, it will be the site of APEC Haus, a six-star hotel, 68 serviced apartments, commercial buildings, restaurants, a cultural centre, a marina and an international cruise line terminal. APEC bonanza he Asia–Pacific Economic Cooperation Toua says the e-commerce small-medium Experts predict that the (APEC) meeting in 2018 in Port enterprise (SME) summit hosted in Port Moresby will be a major boost for Moresby in April, provided “a glimpse APEC meeting in Port TPapua New Guinea, according to of the entrepreneurial and technological David Toua, the president of the Business opportunities that our people and our Moresby in 2018 will Council of PNG. businesses can access”. bring many benefits. “There are two great opportunities to be The experience of other countries that have realised from hosting APEC,” he says. hosted the event suggests benefits outweigh Kevin McQuillan reports. “The first is to invite people to our country, the costs, according to Francis Hualupmomi, and showcase its enormous potential as an a political scientist at New Zealand’s Victoria investment destination. The second is to University in Wellington. bring our people closer to the global market “For instance, the Philippines, as a host beyond our borders.” of two APEC meetings (1995 and 2015),

116 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine STRICTLY BUSINESS APEC

is currently experiencing a growth rate of eight per cent, partially as a result of heavy investment in between those years.” Hualupmomi points to increased investment from tourists and business, which results By the time the summit starts, Port Moresby could in job creation; restored credibility of the have as many as 2590 high-end hotel rooms, and state as a host of future high-level meetings; the boosting of PNG’s socio-economic conference capacity for many thousands. It will be infrastructure; and enhanced defence a sharp contrast to five years ago, when the city capability and capacity. In the long-term, the meeting will “deepen had just 600 high-end hotel rooms. PNG’s trade and investments in the region”, he says. The national government has allocated PGK800 million for the event and preparations are “on track”, according to PNG’s APEC ambassador, Ivan Pomaleu. Haus, will play a key role in accommodating The 2018 APEC event and the meetings He says the Committee on APEC Policy APEC participants. It consists of a six-star will generate many opportunities for the Issues has focused on four areas: enhancing hotel, 68 serviced apartments, commercial tourism industry: not just the nation’s capital, regional economic integration; achieving buildings, restaurants, a cultural centre, but also the provinces of East New Britain, sustainable and inclusive growth; moving a marina and an international cruise line Morobe, Madang, Eastern Highlands, Milne towards structural reforms; and enhancing terminal. Bay and New Ireland. All have been selected human capital development. A calendar of By the time the summit starts, Port to host APEC meetings. n events will be ready in mid-2017. Moresby could have as many as 2590 high- The construction of the purpose-built APEC end hotel rooms, and conference capacity for Haus convention centre is expected to be many thousands. It will be a sharp contrast completed by August, 2018. LNG producer to five years ago, when the city had just Oil Search is carrying out the work, which is 600 high-end hotel rooms. The stories in our ‘Strictly funded through a tax credit scheme. According to Chris Hawkins, chief executive Business’ section were APEC Haus is being built on reclaimed land of the APEC Authority, guests will be near Ela Beach in Port Moresby’s central first published in PNG’s accommodated in new and existing hotels, business district. APEC Minister Justin online business magazine, and three cruise liners. Tkatchenko says the unique design of the businessadvantagepng.com “There are sufficient rooms for leaders to facility, which resembles a lakatoi sail, will have the rooms they require,” he says. and are re-published by rival other iconic world sites. One of the new hotels is The Stanley, which arrangement with Business “It will be just like what the Sydney Opera opened in July, 2016. It features 429 rooms, Advantage International. House is to Australia,” he says. a plenary conference centre for up to 1000 APEC Haus will host the Leaders’ Summit and a sit-down dining room for 1200. and the Leaders’ Dialogue with the APEC Another new hotel is the 212-room Hilton, Business Advisory Council. which will be ready later this year. A PGK550 A PGK85 million development at the new million upgrade of Jackson’s national and Paga Hill Estate, which is adjacent to APEC international airport is due for completion by August, 2018. Two key roads have been built to provide easy access from the airport and between APEC conference facilities. Six new roads have been built at a cost of PGK700 million. The Paga Hill ring road connects all precincts on Paga Hill and the waterfront, as well as linking the city centre, the port and Ela Beach.

May – June 2017 117 STRICTLY BUSINESS COFFEE COFFEE BLUEPRINT Sarah Byrne reports on moves to give PNG’s coffee industry a vital shot in the arm.

apua New Guinea’s Coffee Industry Corporation (CIC) has their coffee, they have no power. The Coffee Industry Corporation’s implemented a strategy of mobilising farmers into groups approach to mobilise the farmers is a good strategy,” says the in an attempt to address farmer concerns about low coffee- corporation’s chief scientist, Tom Kukhang. P bean prices. He says that eventually the grower co-ops will allow the farmers If farmers work together, the consistency of the crop improves; to deal directly with small roasters throughout the world, removing it is a strategy that provides the growers with larger-crop volumes, the ‘middle man’. putting them in a stronger position to negotiate the sale price with “This is one way of getting the farmers to receive some good income, the exporter. which will keep them interested in growing coffee and committed to “When they go as individuals to the roadside or market to sell the crop.”

A handful ... prime coffee beans (above left); coffee country (above); bagged and ready to go (right).

118 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine STRICTLY BUSINESS COFFEE

Kukhang says the market demands quality coffee and consistency Full of beans ... a farmer from growers. Raising the standard of Papua New Guinean coffee is inspecting coffee beans gets a accordingly fundamental to the success of the industry. helping hand from a youngster. In line with the corporation’s strategy, the World Bank is seeking to improve the livelihoods of smallholder farmers through its Productive Partnerships in Agriculture Project (PPAP) for PNG. David Freyne, former general manager for research on the CIC board and former project manager for the Productive Partnership in Agriculture Project PNG (PPAP), says the program provides farmers with the support they would not otherwise receive. Kukhang says the corporation must support farmers by providing them with technical advice and the resources to manage their businesses. He says promotion of smallholder farmers and their crop to overseas markets should be a priority. “Australia is one of the best coffee markets in the world. We need to do a lot more promotion of Papua New Guinean coffee in Australia,” Kukhang says. Both Kukhang and Freyne agree the industry has a long way to go when it comes to providing the necessary training and achieving consistently good-quality coffee. “Consistency is what the market wants,” Kukhang says. n PICTURE: ADB / IAN GILL

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May – June 2017 119 STRICTLY BUSINESS AGRICULTURE WOMEN DIGGING IN A project is under way to encourage and foster the participation of women in agribusiness. Sarah Byrne reports.

omen in rural Papua expenditure, according to entrepreneurial roles, families However, there is little New Guinea are Koczberski, who is researching are more resilient and capable of knowledge of how women keen to engage ways women in rural areas of adapting to external shocks, such can become successful Win agribusiness, PNG can take up more leadership as drought, illness or death. entrepreneurs, or of the barriers but many have traditionally roles in agribusiness. “Women in rural Papua New that limit their engagement. struggled to take leadership roles. It also results in a range Guinea are beginning to engage Koczberski is leading a research That is beginning to change, of benefits for the wider in agricultural activities at a project to address these Curtin University researcher, community. On average, 75 per commercial level. issues, which she will conduct Dr Gina Koczberski, says. cent of income generated by “The economic and social with Professor George Curry, Operating small-scale women is used to meet family impacts on families, and also from Curtin University’s agribusiness financially needs, compared with 25 per communities, of more women Department of Planning and empowers women by cent of men’s income. having control over their Geography. giving them greater control Koczberski also observes own income are likely to be The project is funded by a of household income and that when women take on significant,” she adds. PGK2.88 million grant from

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120 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine STRICTLY BUSINESS AGRICULTURE

the Australian Centre for “Despite the government funds International Agricultural dedicated to SME development, Research and will run over four there remain large gaps in our years. The aim is to identify knowledge of some of the tactics that will support women constraints on SME development

in leadership roles. in the agricultural sector.” PICTURE: RW GROUP The project is a collaborative Data will be collected across five effort between Curtin University, provinces from rural individuals the Coffee Industry Corporation, and households, private and public the PNG Oil Palm Research sector organisations from the Association, the PNG Cocoa and main commodity crop industries, Coconut Institute, PNG Unitech and the fresh food produce and CARE International. sector, Koczberski says. In addition to understanding At the institutional level, the the barriers many women are researchers will evaluate past facing, the project aims to work and present policies, programs Growth factor … women in rural PNG are beginning to engage in agricultural activities at a commercial level. alongside government to develop and services. effective policies and programs. “This step will pinpoint the “The project fits with the Papua gaps, barriers, successes and transition into managing their evaluate a business development New Guinean government’s failures in institutional programs own or family-led agricultural package with two farmer launch of its small–medium sized and interventions for women.” enterprises. cooperatives in the Eastern enterprise (SME) policy in March Three small schemes will One of these schemes will Highlands Province, Koczberski 2016,” says Koczberski. be piloted to foster women’s work with CARE International to adds. n

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May – June 2017 121 STRICTLY BUSINESS TECHNOLOGY

Greg Pawson … says technology advances are allowing PNG to catch up quickly with Online the rest of the world in electronic banking. banking catching on in PNG David James speaks with Westpac Pacific general manager Greg Pawson about the advent of electronic banking in PNG.

he advent of electronic platforms and (have them) banking in Papua New actively use them. Guinea has the potential “That will give people back the T to significantly modernise time they spend visiting branches and expand the country’s or managing their financial financial system, says Greg affairs. It will also help to take Pawson, the general manager the pressure off the volume, of Westpac Pacific. the sheer volume, in cash and Pawson says that technology cheques that are in the banking advances, which have resulted systems in both (the PNG and in greater use of internet Fiji) markets today.” platforms and mobile phones, Pawson identifies a number of have made it possible for PNG trends at the regional, corporate, to catch up quickly. mid-level and micro-level. “From a banking perspective, Regionally, many Australian we’re probably 20 years behind corporations that operate in PNG more developed markets like are relocating their headquarters Australia and New Zealand with from Australia to Singapore in respect to the use of electronic an effort to integrate more into transactional banking,” he says. the Asian region. “So, clearly, there is a mandate “If you look at the upper end for us to get customers in the of the market, we are making Pacific seeing the value and sure that we’re connecting convenience of these electronic our PNG and Fiji corporate and

122 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine STRICTLY BUSINESS TECHNOLOGY

commercial customers to the 50 odd branches. That would trade and capital flows to and overload our branch network and from Australia and New Zealand. There is a mandate for us to get waste people’s time in queues. And, clearly, connectivity into “We know that, more and Asia is really important for customers in the Pacific seeing the value more, people will start to use business in PNG.” and convenience of these electronic and prefer electronic platforms, In the small business, especially as internet and smart mid-market, commercial platforms and (have them) actively phone usage increases. and corporate customer use them. Pawson says Westpac has base, Westpac has “some 130,000 users on its mobile fairly significant technology banking platform, which investments” that have been it is expecting to increase made to help the small–medium substantially. sized enterprise (SME) sector, customers through our mobile Westpac’s targets for its “People are activating it says Pawson. banking platform.” electronic banking are ambitious. and using it, and it’s good for “We’ve got our corporate Micro-finance based on Pawson says the bank is account balances and transfers online platform, and last year we electronic banking has been used aiming to have a million retail and domestic remittances. But launched the new generation effectively in Africa and South- customers by 2020, as part of its the key to success with this EFTPOS terminal, which has East Asia, but Pawson says PNG Everywhere Banking proposition. platform is when you start to revolutionised many businesses has some way to go. “The thing with that, though, connect value-added services, so with its speed, usability and first- “Unfortunately most of the is that we don’t want a million the customers can top up their class security.” micro-finance companies, unlike customers transacting through mobile phone.” n At the smallest level there are in Africa and South-East Asia, barriers, says Pawson. He says just can’t get the scale to make Westpac does not “have the the operation profitable enough. risk appetite, nor the capability” “We would look to potentially, to deliver micro-finance. But he with our mobile banking platform, does see its importance to the partner with a company to economy and is keen to play a support them from a funding role. Westpac’s strategy will be perspective to roll out their to offer wholesale support to micro-finance programs. But it local micro-financing firms. is early days.” “We won’t do micro-finance, Pawson says the bank has a but we will partner with micro- big focus on gender, with its finance companies to support Pacific Women In Business them from a wholesale funding website helping women to perspective and to bank their set up and run their own businesses, and flagship awards programs like the WOW awards celebrating women’s professional achievements. “We want to do all we can to help women thrive, and we know that entrepreneurialism is often a way to boost household income. “So we are providing the resources and support that is within our areas of expertise, and will be able to link women with a micro-finance provider that has Screen shot … Westpac PNG’s that specific lending experience online banking sign-in page. and expertise.”

May – June 2017 123 BRAIN GYM QUIZ, PUZZLES, CROSSWORD

CRYPTIC CLUES 11. Avenge the wrongs of a DoubleTake European city (6) ACROSS 14. Drink from the tap (4) Tackle either set of these clues – you can even 1. Wonderful helmet peaks for 15. Golfing average in jeopardy (3) mix and match them, because the solutions are foremen (11) the same for both sets. 7. Cross-examine? Yes! (5) STRAIGHT CLUES 8. Made back in Dutch dairy (4) ACROSS 9. Nine, for example, managed to 1. Overseers (11) get motor (6) 7. Irritable (5) 12. Kebab spike found in cask ewe 8. Red-skinned cheese (4) ruined (6) 9. Google, search ... (6) 13. Edna, district attorney and 12. Roasting spit (6) myself (4) 13. Paris cathedral, Notre ... (4) 15. Cost of soft grain (5) 15. Horror actor, Vincent ... (5) 16. Art saunters out to where he 16. Bistros (11) will eat well (11) DOWN DOWN 1. Shows (movie) (7) 1. Runs security check on vets (7) 2. Hurry (4) 2. Care about track event (4) 3. Purpose (6) 3. Absorbed in canvas shelter (6) 4. Stubborn (9) 4. In some jobs, Tina tends to be 5. Filthy place (3) mulish (9) 6. Heartbreaking stories (9) 5. Animal pen said to be eye sore 10. Foes (7) (3) 11. POW agreement, ... 6. Dies after triage when I left – Convention (6) what terrible events! (9) 14. Fun & games, ... & skittles (4) 10. Rivals are troubled men, I see 15. Beyond comparison, ... (7) excellence (3)

Create as many words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once Wheel Words only but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters. 10 Good 18 Very Good 26+ Excellent

124 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Wheel Words PX 0008 © Lovatts Puzzles

Solution: Deem, Dime, Emir, Germ, Grim, Mend, Mere, Mien, Mind, Mine, Mire, Rime, Denim, Emend, Grime, Merge, Midge, Mined, Miner, Mired, Emerge, Emigre, Ermine, Grimed, Mender, Merged, Minder, Redeem, Regime, Remind, Deeming, Demerge, Emerged, Regimen. 9-letter word: REDEEMING. BRAIN GYM PUZZLES

The Paradise Quiz HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW THE REGION?

1. Which NRL club does former PNG Hunters star Justin Olam play for? 11. Where is the famous Angkor Wat temple? 2. Where would you find the Coastwatchers Memorial Lighthouse? 12. Queensland’s Magnetic Island can be accessed from which Australian city that Air Niugini flies to? 3. What does lik lik mean in Tok Pisin? 13. What do you call someone who comes from the Philippines, and can 4. Who is Mount Hagen named after? you spell the word? 5. What happens in Alotau every November? 14. What’s the difference between the Japanese delicacies sushi and 6. In PNG, what is used as a form of currency and can also be eaten? sashimi? 7. The PNG Games were first held in 2003. How many Games have 15. Which PNG town is pictured? there been? 8. Bintang beer is synonymous with which holiday destination? 9. If you’re eating the salad dish of rojak, where are you likely to be? 10. By population, can you name, in order, Australia’s three largest capital cities?

Sudoku Fill the grid so that every column, every row and every 3x3 box contains the numbers 1 to 9. Rating:

May – June 2017 125 BRAIN GYM SOLUTIONS

Solutions

Wheel Words Solution: Deem, Dime, Emir, Germ, Grim, Mend, Mere, Mien, Mind, Mine, Mire, Rime, Denim, Emend, Grime, Merge, Midge, Mined, Miner, Mired, Emerge, Emigre, Ermine, Grimed, Mender, Merged, Minder, Redeem, Regime, Remind, Deeming, Demerge, Emerged, Regimen. 9-letter word: REDEEMING The Paradise quiz answers 1. . 2. Madang. 3. Little. 4. German officer Curt von Hagen. 5. The Kenu and Kundu Festival. 6. Pigs. 7. Six. 8. Bali. 9. Rojak is popular in Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia. 10. Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane. 11. Cambodia. 12. Townsville. 13. Filipino. 14. Sushi is rice that is typically rolled and served with seafood or vegetables; sashimi is thinly sliced raw fish. 15. Rabaul.

126 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

ARRIVALS LOUNGE PAPUA NEW GUINEA VISITOR GUIDE Out and about A quick guide to Papua New Guinea, from catching a taxi to making a phone call. CLIMATE to eat. If you’re after fine dining, With the exception of the Highlands, Bacchus is the place to go. For PNG has a warm tropical climate. something more casual, go The wet season in Port Moresby is poolside, where Deli KC’s serves from December to April. antipasto, salads, sandwiches, milkshakes, espresso and a COMMUNICATIONS limited Italian menu for dinner. Internet: Web access in Port The Poolside Bar should not be Moresby has improved immensely missed for its garlic prawns. The in recent years. Although it remains Vue Restaurant, which has a buffet costly, all the Port Moresby hotels each morning and evening, as well listed in this guide provide a fast- as an a la carte menu, has stunning speed internet service. In other views. This is also the place for urban centres, you may still be PICTURE: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY, DAVID KIRKLAND traditional rectangular, wood-fired relying on dial-up. For those staying Italian pizza. See airways.com.pg. Car hire: Deal with one of the evacuation alone can reach longer, wireless internet, via a international names and ask them $US30,000). Visitors should also Aviat Club: The club is open USB modem, is available, although to provide a driver (around PGK400 note that malaria is prevalent in for breakfast, lunch and dinner. download speeds can vary. per day). With the poor state of PNG and there have been cases Home-style meals include stir- Phone: International mobile roads, especially in Lae, 4WDs/ of measles and tuberculosis in fries, toasted sandwiches and phone roaming is possible in PNG SUVs are recommended. some parts of the country. salt-and-pepper prawns. This is but it is costly. A cheaper option a great spot to sit at lunchtime Airport transfers: For arrival/ is to buy a local SIM card and MONEY under the shady mango trees, departure in Port Moresby, any of pre-paid credit (including data PNG’s currency is the kina (PGK). or in the air-conditioned bar. the hotels listed in this guide will packs for smartphones). ANZ and Bank of South Pacific (BSP) See facebook.com/pages/Aviat- provide a complimentary transfer. have branches at Port Moresby’s Club/141553252563094. It is much cheaper to make international airport. ATMs are Domestic flights: Travelling Cafe on the Edge: There are good international calls from PNG than located around Port Moresby, within PNG often means taking hamburgers here and breakfast vice versa. Lae and other urban centres. an internal flight (for instance, options such as eggs benedict, Complimentary Wi-Fi is becoming you cannot drive between Port SAFETY avocado and crispy bacon. The more common at hotels, and Moresby and Lae). Air Niugini servings are generous. Located is also available at Jacksons offers passengers the chance to While the situation is not as bad as portrayed by some international under the residential buildings at International Airport. book (and check in) online but Harbour City, behind the ANZ and make sure you print out a copy of media, you should always take ELECTRICITY precautions, especially at night. BSP banks. See facebook.com/ your receipt to show at the check- edgebythesea/. The current in PNG is 240V AC in counter. Aircraft and helicopter TIME ZONE 50Hz, using Australian-style plugs. charter services are available for Crowne Plaza Hotel: There are PNG has a single time zone, travel to remote locations. multiple eating options at Crowne. GETTING AROUND 10 hours ahead of UTC/GMT. The in-house restaurant includes As a general rule in PNG, you need HEALTH a buffet for breakfast (eggs to plan your travel carefully. EATING, DRINKING, Serious medical conditions SOCIALISING IN PORT cooked to order), as well as lunch Taxis: Recommended firms are typically require treatment and dinner. It’s one of the few Comfort (325 3046) and Scarlet outside the country. Travellers MORESBY restaurants in Port Moresby with (7220 7000). should ensure they have adequate Airways Hotel: Port Moresby’s gluten-free choices. The hotel health cover (the cost of medical ritziest hotel has several places also has fine dining at the ➤

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Rapala restaurant, where the from China, Thailand and Vietnam. restaurant choices, including Ela Beach Hotel and steaks and garlic prawns are Takeaway available. the fine-dining Silver Leaf on the Apartments: On the fringe of the impressive. Old-fashioned crepes 17th floor, and the chic tapas- CDB, this constantly expanding Grand Papuan Brasserie: suzette makes an appearance here, style Monsoon Lounge, which is hotel/apartment complex is part The funky Grand Papua Hotel too, and is cooked at your table. great for after-work drinks on the of the Coral Sea Hotels group. Its bar serves up cocktails and has leather-lounge seating. The casual main eatery is popular at lunchtime. Daikoku: The extensive Japanese a decent wine list, along with Green Haus restaurant has all-day See coralseahotels.com.pg. menu has teppanyaki, donburi some tasty tapas-style bar food. dining, including buffet dinners bowls and a large range of sushi. Grab a seat in one of the huge, Gateway Hotel: Another with live cooking stations. See Tucked away above the SVS black leather chairs or head to member of Coral Sea Hotels, thestanleypng.com. shopping centre in Harbour City, the Brasserie, which has a nightly this time located next to the chefs will whip up your meal at buffet. The a la carte menu is Tasty Bites: An Indian restaurant airport. A range of amenities your table. The teppanyaki menu good and the steaks are delicious. tucked away in the town centre in include Port Moresby’s largest includes several courses, so come See grandpapuahotel.com.pg. Hunter Street near Crowne Plaza. dedicated meeting space. See with an empty stomach. See You won’t get a table unless you coralseahotels.com.pg. Lamana Hotel: You’re spoilt for daikokupng.com. book. Tel. +675 321 2222. choice here with three restaurants Grand Papua: This premium Duffy Cafe, Gabaka Street: (Spices, The Italian, and Rio’s at Vision City: PNG’s first major hotel opened in late 2011 and This has rapidly become popular the Temple), Cafe Palazzo, Lanes shopping mall houses an features 156 suite rooms (short among the expat community, with Ten Pin Bowling, and PNG’s biggest increasing array of eateries. The and long stay), an executive floor, excellent coffee and homemade nightclub, The Gold Club. See cavernous Dynasty (Chinese) and gym and conference facilities. The cafe-style food. See facebook. lamanahotel.com.pg. the Ten (Japanese) are stand- separate restaurant and bar areas com/duffypng. outs. See visioncity.com.pg. are popular venues for business Royal Papua Yacht Club: meetings in town. Centrally Dynasty at Vision City: This Relaxed, spacious and open to non- PORT MORESBY HOTELS located. See grandpapuahotel. may be the biggest restaurant members. Comfort food, draught Airways Hotel: Airways is com.pg. Tel. +675 304 0000. in Port Moresby. Its size, its beer and an open-plan bar area located within a large, secure chandeliers and its gold decor showing sport on large screens. If compound next to Jacksons Holiday Inn: Located in the make it a favourite for balls, it’s too busy, try the Aviat Club in International Airport. An inspiring government district of Waigani. dinners and parties. The menu is nearby Konedobu. See rpyc.com.pg. setting, luxurious rooms, excellent Large grounds with walking huge, too, with pages of Asian track, in a tropical garden setting. Seoul House: This restaurant service and very good food dishes. Don’t miss yum cha on Outdoor restaurant dining and bar specialises in Korean and Thai food, options. See airways.com.pg. Sundays. See facebook.com/ area, business centre and gym. cooked on the hot plate right in Tel. +675 324 5200. pages/Dynasty-Restaurant-Vision- Included the three-star Holiday Inn front of you. Seoul House is tucked City/148278471918956. Crowne Plaza: Upmarket rooms Express hotel. See ihg.com. Tel. away in a garden oasis compound and suites in the heart of the CBD. +675 303 2000. Fusion: This is one of the newer in Five Mile. Tel. +675 325 2231. Decent gym, business centre, restaurants in the city and always Laguna Hotel: The 60-room Stanley Hotel & Suites: This undercover parking, thriving café seems to be doing great business. property is a five-minute drive new hotel in Waigani has several and Mediterranean restaurant. It’s Asian with a fusion of flavours Tel. +675 309 3329. from the heart of Port Moresby ➤

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and features a lagoon-style pool, Serves good coffee, milkshakes, Serves pub-style food including Lae International: The city’s free airport transfers, free sandwiches, cakes and salads. burgers, steaks and pizza, which premier hotel has recently Wi-Fi and free buffet breakfast. Tel. +675 7217 1966. goes down a treat with the renovated rooms, full bar service, See lagunahotelpng.com. surrounding views of the Huon conference and banquet halls, a Golden Aviat: A good option for Tel. +675 323 9333. Gulf. See laeyachtclub.com.pg. gym and pool. See laeinterhotel. Chinese, located on Huon Road in Tel. +675 472 4091. com. Tel. +675 472 2000. Lamana Hotel: In Waigani, the Eriku. Open for lunch and dinner hotel has 24-hour free airport and yum cha on Sundays. Tel. Mountain View Restaurant: Lae Travellers Inn: An transfers, free in-room Wi-Fi, +675 472 0486. One of Lae’s newest restaurants affordable option, offering clean a conference centre, restaurants, is at the Crossroads Hotel at Nine and comfortable rooms. Just a Huon Club: A private members’ and the famous Gold Club. Mile. Open for breakfast, lunch and few minutes from the centre of club, offering air-conditioned See lamanahotel.com.pg. dinner, be sure to try the Japanese town, the inn also has conference facilities, comfortable lounge chairs, Tel. +675 323 2333. fusion menu – it’s the only place facilities and a small restaurant an expansive deck overlooking the in town where you can get good serving Western and Indian Stanley Hotel and Suites: Port Lae Golf Club, a fully stocked bar sushi. See hornibrook.com.pg/ cuisine. Tel. +675 479 0411. Moresby’s newest hotel (opened and Foxtel connection to preview crossroads/. Tel. +675 475 1124. in July, 2016) is a luxurious 429- all the racing and sporting events. For general information room property in Waigani, close to Tel. +675 7347 1058. LAE HOTELS about Lae, see lcci.org.pg government offices and embassies. and rainylae.com. Lae International Hotel: Home to It has 95 long-stay apartments, Crossroads Hotel: A 45-room three restaurants – Luluai’s Italian gym, pool, cafe, restaurants facility at Nine Mile. The hotel has Free Wi-Fi Pizza, Vanda, and Kokomo, which and an executive lounge. a Japanese-themed teppanyaki all serve an array of international at airport Connected to Vision City Mega restaurant with Asian/Western and Western cuisine, including Mall. See thestanleypng.com. fusion menus, full bar service, a Domestic and international Indian and seafood buffets. The Tel. + 675 302 8888. well-equipped gym, Wi-Fi and passengers at Port Moresby’s Sportsman’s Bar (aka Jack’s Bar) complimentary transport transfers airport can connect to free Wi-Fi. EATING, DRINKING, is also a good place for a nightcap, both to Lae City and Nadzab SOCIALISING IN LAE or two. See laeinterhotel.com. Tel. Airport. See hornibrook.com.pg/ HELPFUL WEBSITES +675 472 7000. crossroads/. Tel. +675 475 1124. Air Niugini, airniugini.com.pg Bunga Raya Restaurant: A local Lae Golf Club: Whether it’s after Business Advantage PNG, favourite, serving Malaysian-style Lae City Hotel: One of the a round of golf or just an excuse to newest hotels in town, offering businessadvantagepng.com n Chinese. Located next door to the catch up with friends, the club is Lae Golf Club. Be sure to try the a 24-hour concierge service. excellent for a few sundowners as Located in the main Top Town stuffed lettuce cups, laksa and you overlook the stunning green. claypot tofu. Tel. +675 472 7177 area, it also has an excellent cafe Tel. +675 472 1363. and restaurant with Western and Chigi’s Cafe: A delightful place Lae Yacht Club: The perfect Asian cuisine. See laecityhotel. inside the temporary Brian Bell place for late-afternoon beers, com. Tel. +675 472 0138. store near the Lae main markets. or just as nice for a relaxing lunch.

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TWO-MINUTE GUIDE TO TOK PISIN WORDS/PHRASES Papua New Guinea has more How much is this? One beer, please. Restaurant than 800 languages, but the Dispela em hamas? Wanpela bia plis. Ples bilong kaikai three official languages are Tok Thank you very much. Why? Bilong wanem? Goodbye Gutbai Pisin, English and Motu. Here, we Tenkiu tru. outline some Tok Pisin, which is How many children do you Hello Halo the largest lingua franca of PNG. You understand English? have? Yu gat hamaspla Water Wara Yu save long tok Inglis? pikinini? Where do I find a taxi? Baggage Kago Bai mi painim taxi long we? Where is my bag? Where are you from? Bag bilong mi istap we? Yu bilong wanem hap? Airport Ples balus One coffee with milk, please. Place Ples Wanpela kap kopi wantaim Where can I change my I don’t know. Mi no save. milk plis. money? What do you want? Fish Pis Wanem hap bai mi ken Yu laikim wanem samting? Where is the toilet? senisim moni bilong mi? Toilet istap we?

Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Wan Tu Tri Foa Faiv Sikis Seven Et Nain Ten

134 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine ARRIVALS LOUNGE VISITOR GUIDE

Gerehu Port Moresby University of Papua New Guinea Morata Eight Mile Port Moresby Nature Park To Bomana War Cemetery W a Waigani To Motukea Island, the ig a PNG LNG plant and Ensisi n i Royal Napa Napa Refinery D r Port Moresby y w H Golf Club y ra National ur M t Museum er b u Parliament H Laguna Hotel Kumul Flyover PNG Erima Vision City Stanley Hotel Sir John Guise Stadium Lamana Hotel Jacksons Port City Hall International Moresby Holiday Inn Air Niugini Haus Airport W Gateway Hotel a ig a n Gordons i D Six Mile Airways r Hotel d Hanuabada R Saraga 0 100 Km en rd Ga Port Moresby Harbour g in Harbour City pr Hohola S Four Mile W Konedobu a Royal Papua rd s Yacht Club Sir Hubert Murray Rd Stadium Ta ur Boroko Taurama Aquatic am a Murray Rd ert Hwy Centre Harbourside ub H Port Moresby Crowne Plaza Badili Korobosea General Hospital Grand Papua Hotel Ela Beach Hotel Koki Town Two Mile Walter Bay Sabama 0 Km 1 Gabutu

May – June 2017 135 ARRIVALS LOUNGE VISITOR GUIDE

Papua New Guinea University of Technology LAE Taraka

To Nadzab Airport, 42 kilometres

Crossroads Hotel Omili H d ig R h bu la m n Bu ds H w y Malahang Industrial Centre

I n H Bumneng d o e u p n e R n d d e n c Bugandi e H Golf Course Eriku D ig r r h D l e a Milford Haven Rd n c d n s Huon Club e H Bum d w b n u R e y ive p Botanical r e H d o n Gardens u I n

R d Dowsett War Cemetery Showgrounds Butibum Hotel Morobe

Sandpiper Rd 0 Km 1 PNG Lae d Lae City R n Lae Angau e v Lae City a Hospital China Town H Hotel d M r Lae International o a f l rk i Markets ha Hotel M m

Rd Lae International Melanesian Hotel Rd Hospital Butibam 0 100 Km St lia no ag M Voco Lae Yacht Club Point Lae Port Huon Gulf

136 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Welcome aboard

Enjoy our Bird of Paradise in-flight service Air Niugini fleet

Please ask us Entertainment If there is anything our cabin crew can assist you with during A selection of movies and music including B767-300ER - Boeing F70 - Fokker your flight, please do not hesitate to ask them. classical, modern, country and local are available on Length: 59.94m Normal altitude: 11000 - 12000m Length: 30.91m Normal altitude: 11000m international services. Wing span: 47.57m Standard seating capacity: 188 Wing span: 28.08m Standard seating capacity: 76 Hand luggage Range: 8100km Business class: 28 Range: 3410km Business class: 6 Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 160 Cruising speed: 743kph Economy class: 70 Please ensure that your carry on luggage is placed in the Pillows and blankets Power plant: 2 x PW4000 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 620-15 Number of aircraft in fleet: 5 turbo-fan engines overhead locker or under the seat in front of you. On International flights, pillows and blankets are available on request from our cabin crew.

Takeoff and landing Ensure that your seat is in the upright position during takeoff Cuisine and landing. Folding tables must be returned to their original Our in-flight* meals have been specially prepared for your position in the seat back or the armrest. enjoyment. If you require a vegetarian meal or you are on a special diet, child or baby food, please inform us when B737-800 - Boeing DASH 8-Q315 - Bombardier Safety first making your reservation. Length: 39.5m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 25.7m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123E Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 144 Wing span: 24.4m Normal altitude: 7500m Your seat belt must be securely fastened during take off and Range: 8100km Business class: 16 Range: 1700km Standard seating capacity: 50 In-flight Duty Free Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 128 Cruising speed: 510kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 3 landing or whenever the seat belt sign is on. When the seat Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B26 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 belt sign is off you may move about the cabin as necessary. During the flight take some time to look through our However while seated, keep your seat belt fastened securely In-flight Duty Free brochure located in your seat pocket. in case of unexpected turbulence. Duty free purchases can be made after Meal Service. All major credit cards are accepted.

Electronic equipment Cellular telephones, TV receivers or radio controlled devices Immigration and Customs Forms are not to be used at any time on board an aircraft. Electronic During your flight, our cabin crew will distribute devices such as portable computers, compact discs or Immigration and Custom forms before each landing B737-700 - Boeing DHC-8-202 - Bombardier cassette players and video games can be used only when point. Ensure that you carefully read and complete these Length: 33.6m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 22.25m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123D Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 116 Wing span: 25.89m Normal altitude: 7600m the seat belt sign is switched off. documents and have them ready for inspection with Range: 6370km Business class: 12 Range: 1800km Standard seating capacity: 36 Cruising speed: 830kph Economy class: 104 Cruising speed: 550kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 your passport at the Immigration and Customs Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B22 Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Children and babies arrival counters.

The cabin crew will also be pleased to assist in preparing your baby’s food and bottle. Baby food and diapers are Before you leave also available. Please do not hesitate to ask our friendly Please check your seat pocket and overhead lockers cabin crew. before you disembark to ensure you have not left any items of value. We look forward to seeing you when you Smoking next fly with us on our Bird of Paradise Service. F100 - Fokker Falcon 900EX - Dassault Length: 35.528m Normal altitude: 11000m Length: 20.21m Power plant: 3 x Honeywell TFE731 Smoking is not permitted on any Air Niugini flight. Wing span: 28.076m Standard seating capacity: 101 Wing span: 19.33m Maximum altitude: 51000ft Range: 3000km Business class: 8 Range: 4500nm Standard seating capacity: 12 Cruising speed: 780kph Economy class: 93 Cruising speed: 650mph Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 650 Number of aircraft in fleet: 7 Welcome aboard

Enjoy our Bird of Paradise in-flight service Air Niugini fleet

Please ask us Entertainment If there is anything our cabin crew can assist you with during A selection of movies and music including B767-300ER - Boeing F70 - Fokker your flight, please do not hesitate to ask them. classical, modern, country and local are available on Length: 59.94m Normal altitude: 11000 - 12000m Length: 30.91m Normal altitude: 11000m international services. Wing span: 47.57m Standard seating capacity: 188 Wing span: 28.08m Standard seating capacity: 76 Hand luggage Range: 8100km Business class: 28 Range: 3410km Business class: 6 Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 160 Cruising speed: 743kph Economy class: 70 Please ensure that your carry on luggage is placed in the Pillows and blankets Power plant: 2 x PW4000 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 620-15 Number of aircraft in fleet: 5 turbo-fan engines overhead locker or under the seat in front of you. On International flights, pillows and blankets are available on request from our cabin crew.

Takeoff and landing Ensure that your seat is in the upright position during takeoff Cuisine and landing. Folding tables must be returned to their original Our in-flight* meals have been specially prepared for your position in the seat back or the armrest. enjoyment. If you require a vegetarian meal or you are on a special diet, child or baby food, please inform us when B737-800 - Boeing DASH 8-Q315 - Bombardier Safety first making your reservation. Length: 39.5m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 25.7m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123E Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 144 Wing span: 24.4m Normal altitude: 7500m Your seat belt must be securely fastened during take off and Range: 8100km Business class: 16 Range: 1700km Standard seating capacity: 50 In-flight Duty Free Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 128 Cruising speed: 510kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 3 landing or whenever the seat belt sign is on. When the seat Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B26 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 belt sign is off you may move about the cabin as necessary. During the flight take some time to look through our However while seated, keep your seat belt fastened securely In-flight Duty Free brochure located in your seat pocket. in case of unexpected turbulence. Duty free purchases can be made after Meal Service. All major credit cards are accepted.

Electronic equipment Cellular telephones, TV receivers or radio controlled devices Immigration and Customs Forms are not to be used at any time on board an aircraft. Electronic During your flight, our cabin crew will distribute devices such as portable computers, compact discs or Immigration and Custom forms before each landing B737-700 - Boeing DHC-8-202 - Bombardier cassette players and video games can be used only when point. Ensure that you carefully read and complete these Length: 33.6m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 22.25m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123D Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 116 Wing span: 25.89m Normal altitude: 7600m the seat belt sign is switched off. documents and have them ready for inspection with Range: 6370km Business class: 12 Range: 1800km Standard seating capacity: 36 Cruising speed: 830kph Economy class: 104 Cruising speed: 550kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 your passport at the Immigration and Customs Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B22 Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Children and babies arrival counters.

The cabin crew will also be pleased to assist in preparing your baby’s food and bottle. Baby food and diapers are Before you leave also available. Please do not hesitate to ask our friendly Please check your seat pocket and overhead lockers cabin crew. before you disembark to ensure you have not left any items of value. We look forward to seeing you when you Smoking next fly with us on our Bird of Paradise Service. F100 - Fokker Falcon 900EX - Dassault Length: 35.528m Normal altitude: 11000m Length: 20.21m Power plant: 3 x Honeywell TFE731 Smoking is not permitted on any Air Niugini flight. Wing span: 28.076m Standard seating capacity: 101 Wing span: 19.33m Maximum altitude: 51000ft Range: 3000km Business class: 8 Range: 4500nm Standard seating capacity: 12 Cruising speed: 780kph Economy class: 93 Cruising speed: 650mph Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 650 Number of aircraft in fleet: 7 Inflight entertainment

Movie, TV and music highlights available on Air Niugini flights

Movies

Hidden Figures Live by Night Assassin’s Creed Fantastic Beasts and Where Genre: Drama, History Genre: Crime, Drama, Thriller Genre: Action, Adventure, Fantasy to Find Them Rating: PG Rating: R Rating: PG13 Genre: Adventure, Family, Fantasy Stars: Taraji P. Henson, Octavia Spencer, Warnings: V, L, S Stars: Michael Fassbender, Marion Cotillard, Rating: PG13 Janelle Monae Stars: Ben Affleck, Elle Fanning, Brendan Gleeson Jeremy Irons Stars: Ezra Miller, Eddie Redmayne, Colin Farrell Recounts the vital history of an elite team of Taking fatherly advice is not in Joe Coughlin’s Marked by tragedy at an early age, Cal Lynch Opens in 1926 as Newt Scamander has just black female mathematicians at NASA who nature. Instead, the World War 1 vet is a is a convict facing capital punishment when completed a global excursion to find and helped win the all-out space race against self-proclaimed anti-establishment outlaw, he gains an unexpected second chance at document an extraordinary array of magical America’s rivals in the Soviet Union and, at the despite being the son of the Boston police deputy life thanks to the mysterious workings of creatures. same time, sent the quest for equal rights and superintendent. Abstergo Industries. opportunity rocketing forwards.

Rules Don’t Apply Why Him? The Curious Case of Dhanak Genre: Drama, Romance Genre: Comedy Benjamin Button Genre: Drama Rating: PG13 Rating: R Genre: Drama, Fantasy, Romance Rating: PG13 Stars: Warren Beatty, Lily Collins, Alden Warnings: S, L Rating: PG13 Stars: Hetal Gadda, Krrish Chhabria, Ehrenreich Stars: James Franco, Bryan Cranston, Stars: Brad Pitt, Cate Blanchett, Tilda Swinton Vipin Sharma Zoey Deutch An aspiring young actress and her ambitious An old man physically ages backward. At age Orphaned siblings Pari and Chotu live in Rajasthan. young driver struggle with the absurd Over the holidays, loving but overprotective 50, he falls in love with a 30-year-old woman and Pari promises visually impaired Chotu that he will eccentricities of the unpredictable billionaire dad Ned Fleming travels to California to visit then must come to terms with the relationship get his vision back. When she learns that actor Howard Hughes, for whom they work. his daughter at Stanford – where he meets his as they literally grow in opposite directions. Shah Rukh Khan is shooting in Jaisalmer, she is biggest nightmare. certain her hero will help restore Chotu’s eyesight.

Rustom Shippu Rondo Sword Master How to Be Yours Genre: Thriller Genre: Drama, Comedy Genre: Action, Drama Genre: Drama, Romance Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Rating: PG Stars: Akshay Kumar, Ileana D’Cruz, Arjan Bajwa, Stars: Hiroshi Abe, Tadayoshi Okura, Yuko Stars: Lin Gengxin, Peter Ho, Jiang Yiyan Stars: Bea Alonzo, Divine Aucina, Gerald Esha Gupta Oshima The Third Master of the Sword Mansion has been Anderson Navy officer Rustom Pavri learns that his wife is It’s just another day at work for Kuribayashi, the most powerful swordsman since the age Two people driven by their professional ambitions having an affair with his friend, Vikram Makhija. that’s until a top-secret biological weapon is of 12. But he has grown tired of the bloodshed. fall in love and are forced to reassess their Soon, Makhija is found dead in his bedroom. stolen from the university lab. Deciding to go away for good, he spreads news goals as they encounter the trials of a serious Pavri surrenders to the police, but the case takes of his own death. relationship. an interesting turn.

(D) Drug Reference (L) Language (S) Sex (V) Violence TV

Cafe Niugini 2 Broke Girls Empire The Grinder Genre: Documentary, Lifestyle, Travel Genre: Comedy Genre: Drama Genre: Comedy Episode: S1 E4 – Eastern Highlands Episode: S6 E11 – And the Planes, Fingers and Episode: S3 E1 – Light in Darkness Episode: S1 E21 – Divergence Rating: PG Automobiles Rating: PG13 Rating: PG Stars: Jennifer Baing Rating: PG13 Stars: Terrence Howard, Taraji P. Henson, Stars: Rob Lowe, Fred Savage, Mary Elizabeth Cafe Niugini explores the extraordinary food Stars: Kat Dennings, Beth Behrs, Garrett Morris Jussie Smollett Ellis cultures and cuisine of PNG. This episode When Max decides to head to Los Angeles to Hakeem is left at the altar, Lucious and Anika After finding out Dean Senior is guilty, Stew celebrates an elaborate food initiation ceremony win back Randy, she and Caroline embark on are married and Anika and Rhonda are fighting thinks they should settle the case. Dean, of and reveals bamboo cooking traditions of the a cross-country road trip with Han at the wheel. on the roof – until someone falls. course, believes they should try to win. Kabiufa and Kafesa communities.

New Girl Riverdale Training Day The Bugs Bunny Show Genre: Comedy Genre: Drama, Mystery Genre: Drama, Action, Crime Genre: Family, Animation Episode: S6 E3 – Single and Sufficient Episode: S1 E1 – Chapter One: The River’s Edge Episode: S1 E1 – Apocalypse Now Episode: My Bunny Lies Over the Sea/ Scaredy Rating: PG13 Rating: R Rating: PG13 Cat/ Scentimental Romeo Stars: Zooey Deschanel, Jake Johnson, Stars: K.J. Apa, Lili Reinhart, Camila Mendes Stars: Justin Cornwell, Bill Paxton, Katrina Law Rating: G Max Greenfield As a new school year begins, the town of Follows a young, idealistic police officer who Stars: Mel Blanc, June Foray, Jim Backus When Schmidt and Cece and Winston and Riverdale is reeling from the tragic death of high goes undercover in an elite squad of the LAPD, Bugs gets lost on his way to the La Brea Tar Aly invite Jess on their couples glamping trip, school golden boy Jason Blossom. where he partners with a morally ambiguous Pit and ends up in Scotland; Porky Pig brings members of her singles-only group tag along. veteran detective. Sylvester to their new home, a gothic mansion; Pepe Le Pew gets romantic. Music

John Mayer Rag’n’Bone Man Train Pitbull Khalid Roy Orbison The Search For Human A Girl, a Bottle, a Boat Climate Change American Teen Black & White Night Everything Genre: Pop Rating: PG Genre: Pop Rating: PG Genre: Pop Rating: R Genre: Chill Rating: R Genre: Golden Hits Rating: PG Genre: Easy Listening Rating: PG The winner of the 2017 Eighth studio album by Featuring Flo Rida, Ty Dolla A fantastic soft-synth R&B A recording of Orbison’s 1987 Soulful, guitar-led pop from BRITs Critics’ Choice Award American pop-rock band, Train. $ign, Jason Derulo and debut album. comeback concert, alongside the American singer-song- unleashes his debut album of Includes the tracks, Play That Enrique Iglesias. Some of a backup band for the ages: writer. Now on his seventh big-voiced soul. Includes the Song, What Good is Saturday the highest-profile talent in Bruce Springsteen, Elvis studio album, The Search for chart-topping single Human. and Loverman. pop today. Costello, Bonnie Raitt, K.D. Everything sees Mayer reflect Lang, Jackson Browne and on getting older. Tom Waits.

TOKYO

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Air Niugini International Offices

Sydney Germany Jakarta Nouvelle Caledonie Port Vila Sri Lanka Tokyo AIR NIUGINI OFFICES Somare House AIR NIUGINI GSA OFFICES Aviareps Ag P.T. Ayuberga Axxess Travel Vanuatu Travel Services Ltd Jetwing Air Alconet Corporation 100 Clarence Street Kaiserstrasse 77, 60329 Tel: (62) 21 835 6214-217 Espace Moselle, 22 Rue Duquesne, 98845 Tel: (67) 822 2836 Tel: (94) 114732400 Tel: (81) 3 5733-2567

Australia Wide PO Box 5293 Sydney NSW 2001 Auckland/Cook Islands Frankfurt Main, Germany Fax: (62) 21 835 3937 Noumea Cedex, Nouvelle Caledonie Fax: (67) 823 3583 Email: [email protected] Fax: (81) 3 5733-2568 Local Call: 1300 361 380 Walshes World Australia Tel: (61 2) 9290 1544 Tel: (49) 89 552 533 46 Tel: (687) 286677 Email: [email protected] Tel: (64 9) 9772230 Kuala Lumpur Email: [email protected] Seoul Suva, Fiji Brisbane Fax: (61 2) 9290 2026 Email: [email protected] Sharp Inc Discount Flight Centre United Kingdom Email: [email protected] Abadi Aviation Services Level 3, 97 Creek Street Cebu, Philippines Tel: (603) 2148 4313 Perth, Australia Tel: (82) 2734 7100 Tel: (679) 331 7870 Flight Directors GPO Box 2216 Brisbane QLD 4001 Destinations Specialists Hong Kong Manila Tam Wing Kun Holdings Ltd Fax: (603) 2141 2322 World Aviation Systems Fax: (82) 2734 7108 Fax: (679) 331 7873 Tel (local call): 0871 744 7470 Australia Tel: (61 7) 3221 1544 Tel: (6332) 231 2461 3rd Floor, Fortune Office Building Tel: (852) 2527 7098 Fax: (852) 2527 7026 Email: [email protected] Tel: (61 8) 9229 9370 Shop #5, Tel: (44) 1293 874 952 Fax: (61 7) 3220 0040 Fax: (6332) 231 0852 Email: [email protected] Singapore Sabrina Building Fax: (44) 0870 24 02 208 160 Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village, Deks Air Email: [email protected] Makati City, Philippines Email: [email protected] Honiara Victoria Parade Email: airniugini@ Travel Industry Services Phonpei Tel: (65) 6250 4868 Suva, Fiji flightdirectors.com Cairns Tel: (63 2) 891 3339/40/41 France Tel: (67) 720 336 House of Travel Fax: (65) 6253 3425 Shop 1 Palm Court 34 Lake Street Fax: (63 2) 891 3393 Aviareps Sarl Fax: (67) 723 887 2nd Floor A-One Mart Bldg, Email: [email protected] Taipei PO Box 1941, Cairns QLD 4870 Australia Email: [email protected] 122 Avenue Des Champs, Elysees Email: [email protected] P O Box 1138, Kolonia, 300 Beach Road Cha May Travel Service Tel: (61 7) 4080 1600 75008 Paris, France Pohnpei FSM. #13-05A The Concourse Tel: (88) 6 2500 7811 Fax: (61 7) 4031 3402 Tel: (33) 1 5343 3394 Italy Tel (691) 320- 5888 Fax (691) 320 5889 Singapore 199555 Fax: (88) 6 2500 7970 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Spazio SRL Email: [email protected] / Tel (39) 064985621 Fax (39) 064985201 [email protected] TOKYO

SHANGHAI PACIFIC HONG KONG NORTHERN OCEAN MARIANA HAWAIIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS MANILA GUAM

CEBU CHUUK MARSHALL ISLANDS PALAU POHNPEI KUALA LUMPUR TUVALU

SINGAPORE PORT KIRIBATI

JAKARTA MORESBY BALI HONIARA PORT VILA CAIRNS NADI FRENCH TOWNSVILLE POLYNESIA NEW COOK INDIAN CALEDONIA ISLANDS OCEAN BRISBANE

SYDNEY AUCKLAND

INTERNATIONAL ROUTE MAP

Air Niugini International Offices

Sydney Germany Jakarta Nouvelle Caledonie Port Vila Sri Lanka Tokyo AIR NIUGINI OFFICES Somare House AIR NIUGINI GSA OFFICES Aviareps Ag P.T. Ayuberga Axxess Travel Vanuatu Travel Services Ltd Jetwing Air Alconet Corporation 100 Clarence Street Kaiserstrasse 77, 60329 Tel: (62) 21 835 6214-217 Espace Moselle, 22 Rue Duquesne, 98845 Tel: (67) 822 2836 Tel: (94) 114732400 Tel: (81) 3 5733-2567

Australia Wide PO Box 5293 Sydney NSW 2001 Auckland/Cook Islands Frankfurt Main, Germany Fax: (62) 21 835 3937 Noumea Cedex, Nouvelle Caledonie Fax: (67) 823 3583 Email: [email protected] Fax: (81) 3 5733-2568 Local Call: 1300 361 380 Walshes World Australia Tel: (61 2) 9290 1544 Tel: (49) 89 552 533 46 Tel: (687) 286677 Email: [email protected] Tel: (64 9) 9772230 Kuala Lumpur Email: [email protected] Seoul Suva, Fiji Brisbane Fax: (61 2) 9290 2026 Email: [email protected] Sharp Inc Discount Flight Centre United Kingdom Email: [email protected] Abadi Aviation Services Level 3, 97 Creek Street Cebu, Philippines Tel: (603) 2148 4313 Perth, Australia Tel: (82) 2734 7100 Tel: (679) 331 7870 Flight Directors GPO Box 2216 Brisbane QLD 4001 Destinations Specialists Hong Kong Manila Tam Wing Kun Holdings Ltd Fax: (603) 2141 2322 World Aviation Systems Fax: (82) 2734 7108 Fax: (679) 331 7873 Tel (local call): 0871 744 7470 Australia Tel: (61 7) 3221 1544 Tel: (6332) 231 2461 3rd Floor, Fortune Office Building Tel: (852) 2527 7098 Fax: (852) 2527 7026 Email: [email protected] Tel: (61 8) 9229 9370 Shop #5, Tel: (44) 1293 874 952 Fax: (61 7) 3220 0040 Fax: (6332) 231 0852 Email: [email protected] Singapore Sabrina Building Fax: (44) 0870 24 02 208 160 Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village, Deks Air Email: [email protected] Makati City, Philippines Email: [email protected] Honiara Victoria Parade Email: airniugini@ Travel Industry Services Phonpei Tel: (65) 6250 4868 Suva, Fiji flightdirectors.com Cairns Tel: (63 2) 891 3339/40/41 France Tel: (67) 720 336 House of Travel Fax: (65) 6253 3425 Shop 1 Palm Court 34 Lake Street Fax: (63 2) 891 3393 Aviareps Sarl Fax: (67) 723 887 2nd Floor A-One Mart Bldg, Email: [email protected] Taipei PO Box 1941, Cairns QLD 4870 Australia Email: [email protected] 122 Avenue Des Champs, Elysees Email: [email protected] P O Box 1138, Kolonia, 300 Beach Road Cha May Travel Service Tel: (61 7) 4080 1600 75008 Paris, France Pohnpei FSM. #13-05A The Concourse Tel: (88) 6 2500 7811 Fax: (61 7) 4031 3402 Tel: (33) 1 5343 3394 Italy Tel (691) 320- 5888 Fax (691) 320 5889 Singapore 199555 Fax: (88) 6 2500 7970 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Spazio SRL Email: [email protected] / Tel (39) 064985621 Fax (39) 064985201 [email protected]