TRIP REPORT: PAPUA NEW GUINEA and NEW BRITAIN DATES: 9-26 July (Main Tour) & 26 -30 July (New Britain Extension) GUIDE AND PHOTOS: Nick Leseberg The simple mention of Papua New Guinea will send most keen birders into a swoon . That is not surprising g iven the host of incredib le birds possible like the King -of-Saxony Bird-of- Paradise above. The focus tends to be on birds -of-paradise but Papua New Guinea is also home to a huge variety of brightly colored pigeons and parrots, bowerbirds, kingfishers and a number of other curious species like the Wattled Ploughbill and Blue -capped Ifrita. It would be great if all these birds were as accessible as they are on David Attenborough’s wonderful documentaries, but unfortunately birding in PNG is much tougher than most people think. The national saying is ‘expect the unexpected’ and this applies to every aspect of the trip, from transport and accommodation through to land access and of course the birds; many people say it is the most difficult place they have ever birded. So if you are planning a trip to PNG it is important to be thoroughly prepared for the experience . It is certain you will see some of the world’s most amazing birds and see them well, but it is also certain you will have to work hard for many of the other great birds that PNG is deservedly known for. www.tropicalbirding.com Page 1 of 63 In many ways this trip to Papua New Guinea was a normal one. There were some amazing highs, but also a few disappointments. We were exceedingly lucky to see, not just hear all five owlet-nightjars, and some birds put in amazing performances like Wattled Ploughbill in the Tari Valley. Many of the birds-of-paradise such as Ribbon-tailed and Princess Stephanie’s Astrapias, King-of-Saxony and Greater Birds-of-Paradise will be forever etched in the memories of everyone on the trip. At the same time misty conditions at Kwatu left everyone wanting better looks at Twelve-wired Bird-of-Paradise, and flooding on the Ketu River meant most of the group only had short views of King Bird-of-Paradise as we watched from our boat. The skulkers skulked, and while everyone had good views of Blue Jewel-Babbler some people unfortunately missed out on Painted Quail-Thrush and Dusky Woodcock. Still, by the end of the trip we had amassed a very respectable list of 380 species including a lot of very special birds. No one saw everything, but everyone did manage to see a fair chunk of the many unique birds which inhabit Papua New Guinea. DAY 1: MONDAY, 9 TH JULY 2012 – BRISBANE TO PORT MORESBY. It was an expectant crowd that gathered around the Air Niugini check-in counter at Brisbane airport, eager and excited to be heading north for many imagine is the birding equivalent of the ‘promised land’. As we waited to board our plane some people tried to add a few last- minute Aussie birds to the trip list, while others pored over the field guide imagining the spectacular parrots, pigeons and of course birds-of-paradise we were hoping to see. We boarded our plane and three hours later were touching down in hot and humid Port Moresby. The immigration line was long and tiresome but eventually we were outside, bins, cameras and telescopes in hand ready to commence our assault. For a pleasant first afternoon we headed to an old favourite here in Port Moresby, the always productive grounds of the Pacific Adventist University. We stopped in the main lakes area and got our list off to a good start with a Shining Bronze-Cuckoo feeding on caterpillars. A few birds familiar to those who have been to Australia showed well, including Australasian Figbirds and Willie Wagtails , while a trio of Rufous Night-Herons were spotted roosting quietly in the canopy of a huge rain tree. Several Fawn-breasted Bowerbirds were chasing each other about, while out on the lakes we picked up Plumed and Wandering Whistling-Ducks , Australasian Grebes , and a pair of dainty Green Pygmy-Geese . A low repeated ‘ooming’ soon brought our attention to the first beautiful pigeon of the trip, a stunning Orange-fronted Fruit-Dove which perched up in the afternoon sun giving fantastic ‘scope views. A few Torresian Imperial-Pigeons flew past, and we also scored a couple of raucous Yellow-faced Mynas while White-breasted Woodswallows soared overhead. We eventually spotted a Brown Oriole perched in the canopy, only the liquid gurgling call betraying its presence. The vocal Helmeted Friarbirds finally gave good views, then as we were shaping up to leave a gorgeous ultramarine Forest Kingfisher was seen sitting quietly above a small creek. Our local guide Daniel waved us down just before we left and urged us to follow him; his words, ‘we might see something.’ Sure enough he took us to www.tropicalbirding.com Page 2 of 63 a pair of huge Papuan Frogmouths , covertly perched in a leafy tree and quietly watching us through their scarcely opened eyes. It was a great way to finish the day, and we returned to our hotel for dinner and the first of many cold SP Lagers. Bird of the Day: Papuan Frogmouth . DAY 2: TUESDAY, 10 TH JULY 2012 – PORT MORESBY TO KIUNGA. Our first full day in PNG started with a 6am breakfast then we loaded our bus for a morning’s birding along the coast west of Port Moresby. Before leaving the city we had our first new birds with both adult and immature Singing Starlings perched up for good views. Our first stop out of the city was at a small wetland where we picked up a Variable Goshawk sitting quietly in roadside tree allowing ‘scope views. Stopping again near an area of mangroves, the first bird we laid eyes on was a cracking Orange-bellied Fruit-Dove , shortly followed by our second Orange-fronted Fruit-Dove for the trip. Several Olive-backed Sunbirds flitted around, while Graceful Honeyeaters and Dusky Myzomelas popped up momentarily for a few people. A Pied Bushchat sang Our first morning in PNG was spent along behind us, and we also got brief glimpses of the Laelae Road, where we found this a pair of Red-cheeked Parrots before we Orange-fronted Fruit-Dove. moved on. As we passed through some open savanna a couple of scruffy Pheasant Coucals were seen perched up in the roadside grass, while Blue-winged Kookaburras were posted on every other telephone pole. At a small wetland we found a few Pacific Black Ducks , before flushing up a couple of flocks of Spotted Whistling-Ducks which quickly wheeled overhead before heading away. Moving on we found increasing numbers of Rainbow Bee-Eaters gracing the telephone wires, then an opportunity stop for Golden-headed Cisticola also produced a nice Little Bronze-Cuckoo . Our next stop was Laelae where we quickly caught up with our target bird, Silver-eared Honeyeater , a range-restricted endemic. Poking around the coast near Laelae produced Mangrove Gerygone and a couple of distant terns, both Greater Crested and Gull-billed . A Brown Booby passed by far out to sea but otherwise things were fairly quiet. www.tropicalbirding.com Page 3 of 63 We turned around and returned to Port Moresby scoring Pacific Reef-Heron on the way plus Striated Heron and a group of five Lesser Frigatebirds for those lucky enough to be on the right side of the bus. Of course they appeared as we were rounding a blind corner with nowhere to pull over. Our last bird for the day was a nice little Gray-headed Munia , serendipitously perched in grass right beside the bus as we stopped at an intersection. With our morning complete it was off to the airport to wait for our afternoon flight to Kiunga. Unfortunately things were running on PNG time and we left nearly an hour late, not arriving in Kiunga until after 5pm. We headed straight for our motel and dinner before a big rest in preparation for the next couple of days. Bird of the Day: Orange-bellied Fruit-Dove . DAY 3: WEDNESDAY, 11 TH JULY 2012 – KIUNGA TO KWATU. The national saying in Papua New Guinea is ‘expect the unexpected’, and over the next two days we had that reinforced with both barrels. Instead of a boat ride to Kwatu as planned, ‘fuel shortages’ (all excuses in PNG are given in inverted commas) meant things got started with a trip out to Boystown Road where unfortunately the weather was not being kind. Rain gave way to fog and things were not conducive to birding, with most of the birds only seen in silhouette; frustrating when many of them are lifers. We did get reasonable views of female Greater Bird-of-Paradise , but Yellow-streaked Lory and Yellow-capped Pygmy- Parrot both passed overhead with little to go off except call (and size of course). A pair of Streak-headed Honeyeaters popped up briefly and Long-billed Honeyeater was seen by a few while we also had our first views of a tiny male Black Sunbird , naturally at the top of a tall tree. Moving down off the hill the tiny birds in tall trees theme continued as everyone tried to make out a Green-backed Gerygone , his beautiful rhythmic melody sounding from the canopy. Unfortunately the hoped for male Flame Bowerbird failed to materialise, a couple of members of the group instead seeing a female briefly cross the road as most of us looked the other way.