EXCLUSIVE CONTENT INSIDER’S GUIDES GET THE BETA ON OUR FAVORITE HIKES play list See 8,876-foot Eldorado Peak from the heather-lined Hid- den Lake Trail. For long-range views of Ross Lake, hike the Lightning Creek Trail. mid-April, and there are often otters, loons, and peregrine falcons in the area,” Roloson says. You could hike there (6 miles from the Ross Dam trailhead), but Roloson favors putting in a canoe at the Colonial Creek launch. Paddle 4 miles to the park service dock on Haul Road and portage a mile to Ross Lake (canoe wheels help), then paddle another 5 miles to Big Beaver. Trail gourmet The charming town of Stehekin (population 112), which sits on Lake Chelan in the park’s southeast corner, offers hikers the chance to refuel on farm-fresh goat cheese from roadside stands, steaks at Stehekin Valley Ranch, and “anything they make” at the Stehekin Pastry Company, Roloson says. The insider You can take a boat or float plane in, but The North Cascades are Katie Roloson’s Roloson’s favorite way to visit is to stop off backyard—literally (in-park lodging is a midway through a five- or six-day, 58-mile perk of her job as manager of educational shuttle backpacking trip from Cascade Pass programs at the nonprofit North Cascades to Thunder Creek trailhead. (Ride the $7 Institute). In her eight years on the job, park shuttle 11 miles to Stehekin from High she’s made it a goal to climb all the peaks Bridge Campground and back.) she can see from her house—she’s down to the last three. Beginner mountaineering “Easy” is a relative term in the North Best backcountry campsite Cascades, where vertical topography and INSIDER’S The shelf cradling Tapto Lakes sits in an summit glaciers are standard (it’s the most off-trail camping zone just under 7,174-foot heavily glaciated park in the Lower 48). Red Face Mountain, with tent-door views But 7,182-foot Pyramid Peak is a great train- of hulking, 7,574-foot Whatcom Peak and ing ground for practicing snowfield skills, other forbidding Picket Range summits. Roloson says. “You do cross steep remnants And because the two teacup lakes don’t of the Colonial Glacier, but it’s mellow, with- show up as a campsite on the National out any crazy crevasses,” she says. Pack 1 Geographic Trails Illustrated park map, crampons and an ice axe and target June or expect to have them to yourself, Roloson July for the 5-mile push from the Pyramid GUIDE says. Best approach: a five-day, 47-mile Lake Trail up an obvious (but unsigned) loop from the Hannegan Pass trailhead. climber’s trail that leads from the south side Hike 12 miles on the Hannegan Pass and of the lake up the peak’s northeastern ridge. Chilliwack Trails (spend night one at Navigation and self-arrest skills are a must; Copper Creek), then continue 5.2 miles on overnight at one of the established camp- Brush Creek Trail to Whatcom Pass. Take sites on the rocky north ridge leading to Mountain Escape the obvious spur trail about a mile north Pyramid Peak (free permit required). from the pass to reach the lakes. To return, backtrack on Brush Creek Trail and swing Best wildlife-watching North Cascades National north on Chilliwack Trail, then west on The park’s remote valleys host plenty of Copper Ridge Trail for nonstop views of charismatic megafauna like black bears, huge peaks and hanging glaciers (primo moose, wolverines, cougars, lynx, bob- Park, Washington campsites: Copper Lake and Egg Lake). cats, and the rare wolf. But for the most, er, singular wildlife-watching experience, Secret waterfall head to Willow Lake, just north of Ross This remote park saves its best for hikers willing to A booming, 30-foot cascade tumbles just a Lake. “It’s Sasquatch central—at least, that’s tackle long miles and steep climbs. The reward for such quarter-mile southwest of the Big Beaver what I’ve heard,” Roloson says. Rumors commitment: lonely alpine lakes, colossal peaks frosted backcountry campsite—but for 10 months of giant footprints and an eerie feeling of with glaciers, far-flung valleys hiding bears and wolver- of the year, you’d never know it. High being watched swirl around the marshy ines, and some of the best mountain views in the Lower water in the dammed Ross Lake covers the lake. Grab the campsite on the lake’s west 48. Some things just shouldn’t be rushed. waterfall until spring, when engineers draw side and keep your camera at the ready: down the lake and the gusher reemerges The area is prime habitat for moose, coy- BY ELISABETH KWAK-HEFFERAN for its big annual show. “The lower falls otes, and gray wolves, just in case Bigfoot PHOTOS BY (FROM LEFT) ALAN MAJCHROWICZ; ANDY PORTER; PORTER; ANDY LEFT) ALAN MAJCHROWICZ; (FROM BY PHOTOS (2) ISTOCKPHOTO.COM are really impressive from mid-March to misses his appointment. See Overall Run Falls on our insider’s favorite multiday trip. play list INSIDER’S 2 GUIDE but the best bets are the secluded streamside campsites 4 miles - peaking on top of 2,736-foot Rocky Mount. Then a little-known peak with horizon-wide views from Skyline Drive on the Big Run Loop. Scout for an impacted drop 1,500 feet to the Gap Run Trail for creekside over the rainbow of foliage, head to 3,002-foot site near Big Run stream, or sling a hammock: “Shenandoah is a hiking (and camping, if you like) until rejoining Bear Church Rock in the park’s Central District. Autumn Getaway particularly good park for hammock camping because it can be the Rocky Mount Trail to close the lollipop loop. Take the Appalachian Trail north from Bootens hard to find a flat spot without any rocks in it,” Molloy says. But Gap to hook up with the Laurel Prong, Cat Knob, Shenandoah National the best part about these spots? You’ll have prime access to clear, Best multiday trip and Jones Mountain Trails for a 9.4-mile (round- 6-foot-deep swimming holes and excellent fishing for native brook Shenandoah’s long, skinny shape means deep trip) high-country stroll. “Mid-October is the best trout. “Shenandoah is a native brook trout stronghold,” he says. wilderness can be tough to find: “Skyline Drive time to go: You’ll have vibrant color on Skyline Park, Virginia “They don’t have any competition, so they’ve been able to get big- divides the park, and if you want to do a multi- Drive and changing color all around you,” Mol- ger than in other parts of the South.” To reach the sites, hike the Big day adventure, you almost always have to cross loy says. (Still, peak color can vary from year to Run Loop Trail down from Big Run Overlook, then join the Big Run the road,” Molloy says. The quiet Overall Run Shenandoah National Park hits its showy, vibrant prime year, so check the park’s Fall Color Report at Portal Trail and scout out a spot. Next day, climb back up via the area on the north side is one exception, where bit.do/ShenniesFoliage.) this month as scores of tree species flare up in one of Rockytop Trail for a 13.3-mile loop. a bulge in the park boundary forms a larger the East Coast’s best foliage displays. But leaf-peeping roadless area with extended trail options and Best trail town is only the beginning at this 105-mile-long park draped Best car campground top-notch black bear habitat. Molloy’s favorite is Tiny Luray, just 5 miles west of park head- over the spine of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Hikers will With just 31 sites, the Lewis Mountain Campground is Shenan- the 12.5-mile Overall Run-Heiskell Hollow loop: quarters, is Molloy’s favorite place to play find crystalline swimming holes, quiet hollows, mon- doah’s smallest and least busy. Besides secluded wooded sites From Mathews Arm Campground, follow the tourist: “It’s like Gatlinburg, Tennessee, was ster trout, see-forever ridgelines, and scrambly peaks and several rustic cabins, the campground offers a glimpse into a Overall Run Trail past 29-foot Twin Falls and on 60 years ago—only slight tourist schlock and shameful chapter in American history: In the 1930s and ’40s, the to Overall Run Falls, a 93-foot-tall, lacy cascade an old-timey feeling.” Historic buildings and from top to bottom. If you’ve been looking for an excuse park maintained Lewis Mountain as a “separate but equal,” black- (the park’s tallest). Continue northwest to camp funky craft shops dot the downtown, roadside to go, autumn is it. BY ELISABETH KWAK-HEFFERAN only facility. Under pressure from the Department of the Interior in the lower reaches of the Overall Run valley. ice cream stands serve the perfect posthike after World War II, Shenandoah finally integrated Lewis Mountain On day two, swing south on the Beecher-Overall shakes, and the 10-story caves at Luray Cav- The insider (and all other facilities) by 1950. Run Connector Trail to access Heiskell Hollow, erns let hikers escape sticky summer after- Tennessee-based Johnny Molloy had a wealth of expe- a wooded valley rich with swimming holes. noons among intricately carved stalactites and rience to draw from to write his Top Trails: Shenandoah Seek solitude Follow the Heiskell Hollow Trail 3.3 miles up the stalagmites (luraycaverns.com). National Park guidebook: Over the past 20 years, he has The park’s northern end is only 2 hours from D.C., so it naturally flank of Knob Mountain to return.