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Photos by Josh Engel. All photos taken on this tour.

Superstorm Sandy had us worried, but we lucked out. With all the flights canceled for two days to and from Dulles Airport, the group was flying on day 3 and had no problems. We all met up in Cape Town the first afternoon and took a short walk around the suburban neighborhood where we were staying. Besides some nice chats with curious locals, we picked up a few common including a pair of Spotted Thick-knees.

For the first full day of the tour, the group split up with Ed and Chuck heading out to sea on a pelagic and the rest of the group heading south for Cape Point after dropping them off in Simon’s Town. We had a lovely morning along the Cape Peninsula, with great views of Cape Grassbird, Orange-breasted Sunbird and Cape Sugarbird with gorgeous scenery as a constant backdrop. We thought we were going to have a real ‘nature moment’ when a troop of baboons had surrounded a days-old Ostrich that got separated from its mother, but they eventually lost interest and moved on (they seemed to think that climbing on cars was much more entertaining). Cape everlastings were in full bloom,

South , November 2012 1 Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com providing a brilliant white background to the morning’s birding. After Cape Siskins and lunch at Cape Point, we turned around and headed back to pick up the pelagic-goers.

They had a great trip, seeing most of the expected seabirds for the early summer, including three of albatross and a few straggling Pintado Petrels along with a Bryde’s Whale. After meeting up we headed to Boulders for some penguin time. Wonderful, as always. The Cape Point group was still oystercatcher-less, so we took a slight detour on the way back to the guest house. We found the oystercatchers, plus Greater Flamingoes and a plenty of other new waterbirds.

Female Cape Sugarbird in Kirstenbosch.

For our second full day in Cape Town we headed north up the West Coast. We started our birding on a country road that, as usual, was full of birds. We quickly picked up things like Capped Wheatear, African Hoopoe, and Pearl-breasted Swallow. Further along we added Chestnut-vented Tit-babbler, Cloud , and watched as a Jackal Buzzard was flushed from a tree by a Cape gray mongoose. After a traditional Cape Malay lunch in , the tide was absolutely perfect for shorebirding. Heading out to the well-situated hide, we had great scope views of thirteen species of shorebirds, plus a flyby view of the locally rare Common Redshank. Before leaving the park we made one more stop where birds were coming in to drink, including large numbers of Yellow Canaries. We made one final stop for beautiful views of Table Mountain across Table Bay before returning to the guest house.

For our final full day in Cape Town, we had a real Cape Town birding day: Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens in the morning and the Strandfontein Sewage Works in the afternoon.

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They were quite the contrast environment-wise, but both were full of birds. The always- stunning Kirstenbosch delivered the goods with point-blank male and female Cape Sugarbirds. The resident Spotted Eagle-Owls showed well, including a fluffy juvenile that posed on top of a rock just feet away from the admiring crowd. Strandfontein was full of birds as usual, including recently arrived Southern Pochard and Maccoa Duck and a variety of terns, shorebirds, and other waterbirds.

You can’t go to Cape Town and not visit Boulders, home of the African Penguin. There were many juveniles like this one present when we visited.

It was finally time to set out from Cape Town. We headed east and started our morning at Rooi Els. It was a beautiful morning, but the just wouldn’t show. We made up for it with stunning Cape Sugarbirds, Orange-breasted Sunbirds, and a bonus Cape Siskin. Continuing east, we stopped at a lovely little farmstall for lunch before finally making it to the Agulhas Plain in the afternoon. Very quickly we found our three target : Southern Black Korhaan, Korhaan, and a field with no fewer than twelve Denham Bustards. An Agulhas Long-billed Lark performed beautifully, displaying in front of us, Cape Vultures came over on schedule near their breeding colony, and Blue Cranes were abundant. Eland, bontebok, and yellow mongoose provided some furry highlights as well.

After our night in a renovated Dutch colonial farm house, we made the short drive to Bontebok National Park for the morning. We quickly found one of our targets, watching a great show of Agulhas (Cape) Clapper Larks displaying. A Cape finally cooperated, with stunning views next to the car. We also saw a puffed up male Denham being rudely ignored by the females present. And this was all before we even

South Africa, November 2012 3 Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com entered the park. After some stops for mammals, including red hartebeest and numerous bontebok, we finally came across another major target with stunning views of a pair of Black Harriers.

Cape look strikingly like meadowlarks, but look at that claw!

We continued east after leaving the park, arriving in Wilderness, our home for the next two night, in the afternoon. We added innumerable birds in the garden immediately upon our arrival at the guesthouse, including point-blank Knysna Turaco, Swee Waxbill, Olive Bush-, and many others.

We did a short pre-breakfast outing the next morning, with the best find being our only Giant Kingfisher of the trip. We returned for an extended breakfast with the birds at the guest house. While enjoying the freshly made quiche and muffins we were bombarded by birds in the garden. Knysna Turaco, Southern Boubou, Lemon Dove, four species of sunbirds, Terrestrial Bulbul, Chorister Robin-Chat, and many others appeared mere feet away, unable to resist the fruit-and-cheese platter offered them. African Paradise Flycatchers put in a great appearance behind the lodge where they were nesting. We made a short trip to the Indian Ocean shore, had a rest, then went to Woodville Forest for an afternoon walk in the woods. We had great views of the very difficult Knysna Woodpecker and scope views of Black-headed Oriole. A return trip after dinner yielded a calling Wood Owl, but it didn’t want to come close.

The next day began with another short pre-breakfast trip. We failed to find the hoped for Knysna Warbler, but a Southern Tchagra sitting in the open calling was a great consolation prize. A final breakfast with the turacos followed, this time with the addition

South Africa, November 2012 4 Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com of a Red-necked Spurfowl under the feeders. It was now time to cross Swartberg Pass into the Great Karoo. We had a single bird in mind as we crossed through the pass: Cape . It was hot by the time we arrived, with a breeze picking up. After methodically working our way up the pass without success, Ed shouted “Stop!” Sure enough, a male Cape Rockjumper was sitting on a rock right next to the van. We got out and watched as two male rockjumpers chased each other around the nearby rocks, occasionally stopping to sing and display. What a show it was, and what a relief for the guide. Sentinal Rock- also put in an appearance here.

High on every birder’s most-wanted list on a South Africa visit is Cape Rockjumper. We found this one thanks to Ed’s spotting at Swartberg Pass.

After a welcome coffee break in Prince Albert, we continued to Karoo National Park. We took a short drive in the evening to start our list of Karoo endemics, but did better with mammals, including oryx and gray rhebok. The next morning was when the birding really got going. After enjoying the numerous weavers, bishops, and sparrows outside the chalets, we headed up Klipspringer Pass. We quickly found Southern Gray Tit and Pale- winged Starling and eventually a soaring pair of Verreaux’s Eagles that landed nearby for great scope views. We spent some time birding riparian areas in the late morning heat, finding—after hearing many— Pied Barbet and Red-faced Mousebird—along with the hyperactive Fairy Flycatcher and some enormous leopard tortoises.

After a welcome afternoon break, we took another drive through the plains. We found our first Sabota Lark and had great looks at a very responsive Namaqua Warbler. A night drive yielded one new mammal, common duiker, plus superb looks at a Rufous-cheeked Nightjar.

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We had one final morning in the Karoo, finally finding Ground Woodpeckers along with our first Yellow-bellied Eremomela and great looks at a ground-perching Pale Chanting Goshawk. Finishing up in the arid west, we returned to Cape Town airport, flew to Johannesburg, and continued our South Africa adventure in the eastern half of the country.

We birded our way to Wakkerstroom the next morning, enjoying the many Long-tailed Widowbirds along the road to town plus our first real Wakkerstroom specials--an extremely close Southern Bald Ibis and a pair of Blue Korhaans. We also watched a group of meerkats eyeing us warily from a roadside field. A short evening trip to the town’s fantastic wetland yielded some extraordinary looks at two singing skulkers--Little Rush Warbler and Little Bittern, plus our first Gray Crowned Crane across the marsh.

We had one full day in Wakkerstroom with a local guide and many birds to find, so an early start was in . Our first order of business was Yellow-breasted . After scanning just enough of roadside fields to get discouraged (and after scoping a distant Secretarybird), we spotted a pair in a short-grass cow pasture for wonderful scope views of this rare and beautiful endemic. Our luck continued a few minutes later with a pair of the often difficult Barrow’s Korhaans. With plenty of time before returning to town for brunch, we switched tracks and headed northeast from town. We stopped by an ouhout thicket where an obliging Bush Blackcap showed off its bubble-gum pink bill and legs. We turned around once we found a Plain-backed Pipit walking through a field.

Wakkerstroom—where this photos was taken—is a great area to see Gray Crowned Cranes

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We finished our well-earned brunch at lark o’clock, and off we were again, this time in search of two of South Africa’s most endangered endemic birds, Botha’s and Rudd’s Larks. With rain threatening, we found Botha’s Lark, skulking as usual. We could just see it moving through grass when it flew to what seemed like a nest, so we decided to leave it be. Next up was Pink-billed Lark which after a bit of patience showed much better, tirelessly picking at one spot in a bare dirt patch while we looked on admiringly. Lastly, it was time for Rudd’s. We paid our community entrance fee and drove out into the fields. After a short walk the guide heard one singing. We tracked it down and found it hopping through the grass, disappearing temporarily only to pop up again a few feet away. Having found all of the key Wakkerstroom species, we headed back to town. We did make stops for a much closer meerkat as well as very close Gray Crowned Cranes, before eventually calling it a day, tired and elated.

After a short walk around town to stretch our legs before a long drive, we set out for Kruger National Park, South Africa’s flagship park and one of the world’s great wildlife reserves. We had some difficulty getting into the park, but only because there was so much to see before even reaching the entrance gate. We stopped on a bridge over the Crocodile River, where besides the eponymous crocs there was waterbuck, bushbuck, warthog, crocodile, hippopotamus, and a herd of elephants. And of course many, many new birds (like Water Thick-knee and Wire-tailed Swallow), having entered the lowveld for the first time.

We saw an astounding number of white rhinos on this trip, including this herd of eleven individuals.

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We continued through the park to our camp, not far from the entrance. Maybe not far, but even that short drive took several hours because there was so much to see. We quickly found some birds that the group had been highly anticipating, like Magpie Shrike and proudly singing Rattling Cisticola. We were thrilled to see a remarkable herd of eleven white rhinoceros, not just because there were so many but also because they were mere feet away. But while we were watching them we got distracted because there were African wild dogs in the background! We did eventually make it to camp, where after a late “lunch” we took a walk to see what was around. Fruiting trees were plentiful, so we were able to find frugivores like African Green Pigeon and the stunning Purple-crested Turaco. We also enjoyed a vigorously singing White-throated Robin-Chat.

We began the following morning, our first full day in Kruger, with another walk around camp. As is typical of Kruger camps, it was very birdy, with the usual francolins, starlings, doves, waxbills, and others present in abundance. We then spent the bulk of the day driving through the park to our next camp. Well, only after spending the first hour of the “drive” very close to the original camp watching the same pack of wild dogs that we had seen the previous evening, this time very close to the road. This is Africa’s rarest top predator and only the second time I had ever seen them. One was finishing off a bit of the impala they had killed earlier in the morning, while the others occasionally got up and strode about. Incredible! While we watched the beautiful dogs, we were occasionally distracted by birds, including four new raptors for the trip.

Our rarest mammal sighting in Kruger was a pack of African wild dogs .

The thick brush and high heat made viewing rather slow through the remainder of the morning, but we did see a few more white rhinos and elephants. After lunch we

South Africa, November 2012 8 Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com continued north, popping in at a waterhole that featured a very close Saddle-billed Stork and an impressively knobbed Knob-billed Duck, plus a vigorously singing Gray Tit- Flycatcher. Moments after a break at a picnic site we found our first lion, a male lounging in the shade across a river from the road, followed shortly by a very active and close Secretarybird. After a rest we took a short sunset drive that indeed featured a stunning sunset, plus our first Kori Bustard.

We started out our second day in Kruger with an early morning drive. After several bird stops, for things like perched Bataleur, Red-headed Weaver, and, best of all, a superb group of Southern Ground Horbills, we learned that there was a male lion a few kilometers ahead right next to the road. We sped to the spot, only to not see the beast. But looking ahead on the road, there he was, casually strolling along the road. We caught up to him and drove alongside, sharing the road. Eventually he sprayed a bush to mark his territory and followed an animal path into the bush. We returned to camp for breakfast. A few people elected to take a walk around camp, despite the heat, and were rewarded with a wonderful experience with African Hoopoe, with two males singing and fighting while a female looked on.

Kruger is famous for its large numbers of big birds that have become rare outside of protected areas, like Saddle-billed Stork.

We had a nice rest during the heat of the day (but we did make time to visit a roosting African Scops Owl), taking another sunset drive, this time without the sunset thanks to clouds on the western horizon. After a dinner during which we were visited by a herd of elephants and a hyena, it was time for the highly anticipated night drive. It started out slowly, but ended up being an outing that none of us will ever forget. The excitement

South Africa, November 2012 9 Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com started when we found two big male lions setting off on their nighttime hunt. We even followed them a short distance into the bush, at times watching them from just a few feet away in an open vehicle. After they disappeared, we went back to where I had seen some eye-shine in a tree a few moments earlier that turned out to be a large-spotted genet, who posed with its luxuriant ringed tail hanging down.

Returning to the main road we switch courses. A little while later we came upon a pride of six lions, half-asleep. Next up was an African wild cat very close to the road. As if that wasn’t enough, a leopard strolled across the road! We had very, very close views as it walked, rested, walked, rested, repeat. Already past our allotted time, we started heading back to camp. But three cats wasn’t enough—on our way back we spotted a gorgeous serval, again right next to the road! Despite not finding a single nightjar, this was among the best, if not the best, Kruger night drive I had ever done.

We woke up still elated the next morning, when it was time to leave the park and return to Johannesburg. Just after leaving the park we encountered a field full of the unpredictable Monotonous Lark, singing, displaying, and chasing each other around. We slowly made our way to the gate, seeing the usual elephants, zebra, wildebeest, and others en route. We had our best views yet of African Fish Eagle at a waterhole along the way, along with a rare-in-Africa Pectoral Sandpiper.

Oxpeckers are a regular adornment of mammals in Kruger. Here, three Red-billed Oxpeckers are de-parasitizing a female greater kudu.

Just after leaving the park we finally found our first Marabou Storks, and we paused on the road to admire an unfortunate roadkill black mamba, one of the world’s most

South Africa, November 2012 10 Tropical Birding www.tropicalbirding.com venomous snakes. We stopped when we reached Abel Erasmus Pass, but the Taita Falcons were a no show. We did add a few other new birds, however, including the beautiful Mountain . We eventually made it back to Joburg, where we had a lovely braai with South African wine for our final dinner in the country.

Thanks to having evening flights, we had one final morning for birding, opting to visit Marievale Bird Sanctuary southeast of the city. It was full of birds, and despite already spending over two weeks birding our way across the country, we found several new birds. Among these were the massive Goliath Heron and great views of Squacco and Black Herons and African Snipe. After final looks at the now familiar Red Bishops and Long-tailed Widowbirds, not to mention the ever present Cape Turtle-Dove, it was time to bid farewell to the wonderful, welcoming country of South Africa and return home.

Black-bellied Bustard in Kruger.

BIRD LIST follows Clements Checklist to Birds of the World, 6 th Edition , with online updates through version 6.7 (August 2012). E denotes Southern African endemic, H is for heard only. 402 birds were recorded, of which 390 were seen.

STRUTHIONIDAE (OSTRICH) Common Ostrich Struthio camelus

ANATIDAE (DUCKS, GEESE, AND WATERFOWL)

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White-faced (Whistling-) Duck Dendrocygna viduata Fulvous (Whistling-) Duck Dendrocygna bicolor Comb (Knob-billed) Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca South African Shelduck Tadorna cana (E) Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata Cape Shoveler Anas smithii Red-billed Duck (Teal) Anas erythrorhyncha Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota Cape Teal Anas capensis Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma Maccoa Duck Oxyura maccoa

NUMIDIDAE (GUINEAFOWL) Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris

PHASIANIDAE (PHEASANTS, GROUSE, AND ALLIES) Crested Francolin Periperdix sephaena Cape Francolin Pternistes capensis (E) Natal Francolin Pternistes natalensis Red-necked Spurfowl (Francolin) Pternistes afer One continues to come in to feeders at our hotel in Wilderness. Swainson's Spurfowl (Francolin) Pternistes swainsonii Common Quail Coturnix coturnix

PHOENICOPTERIDAE (FLAMINGOS) Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor A couple of flocks of these bright pink flamingoes were in West Coast National Park.

SPHENISCIDAE (PENGUINS) African Penguin Spheniscus demersus (E)

PODICIPEDIDAE (GREBES) Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Eared (Black-necked) Grebe Podiceps nigricollis

DIOMEDEIDAE (ALBATROSSES) (Indian) Yellow-nosed Albatross Thalassarche chlorohynchos (bassi ) White-capped (Shy)Albatross Thalassarche cauta Black-browed Albatross Thalassarche melanophris

PROCELLARIIDAE (SHEARWATERS AND PETRELS) Southern Giant Petrel Macronectes giganteus

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Northern Giant Petrel Macronectes halli Pintado Petrel Daption capense A few lingerers from winter were seen on the pelagic trip. White-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis Great Shearwater Puffinus gravis Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus

HYDROBATIDAE (STORM-PETRELS) Wilson's Storm-Petrel Oceanites oceanicus European Storm-Petrel Hydrobates pelagicus

CICONIIDAE (STORKS) Black Stork Ciconia nigra Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus African Openbill (Stork) Anastomus lamelligerus Marabou Stork Leptopilos crumeniferus We nearly missed this huge stork, but caught up with it just after leaving Kruger. Saddle-billed Stork Ephyppiorhynchus senegalensis Always a highlight of a visit to Kruger, we had close views of this spectacular and uncommon stork.

SULIDAE (BOOBIES AND GANNETS) Cape Gannet Morus capensis

PHALACROCORACIDAE (CORMORANTS AND SHAGS) Great (White-breasted) Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo (lucidus) Cape Cormorant Phalacrocorax capensis (E) Bank Cormorant Phalacrocorax neglectus (E) Long-tailed (Reed) Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus Crowned Cormorant Phalacrocorax coronatus (E)

ANHINGIDAE (ANHINGAS) African Darter Anhinga rufa

PELECANIDAE (PELICANS) Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus

SCOPIDAE (HAMERKOP) Hamerkop Scopus umbretta

ARDEIDAE (HERONS, EGRETS, AND BITTERNS) Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus Gray Heron Ardea cinerea Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala Goliath Heron Ardea goliath Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

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Great Egret Ardea alba Intermediate (Yellow-billed) Egret Mesophoyx intermedia Little Egret Egretta garzetta Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Striated Heron Butorides striata Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

THRESKIORNITHIDAE (IBISES AND SPOONBILLS) Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus Hadeda Ibis Bostrychia hagedash Southern Bald Ibis Geronticus calvus (E) African Spoonbill Platalea alba

PANDIONIDAE (OSPREY) Osprey Pandion haliaetus

ACCIPITRIDAE (HAWKS, EAGLES, AND KITES) Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus Black (Yellow-billed) Kite Milvus migrans (aegyptius) African Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus Cape Griffon (Vulture) Gyps coprotheres (E) Several of this Threatened species were seen near their breeding colony near De Hoop. Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotos Black-breasted (-chested) Snake-Eagle Circaetus pectoralis Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinereus Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus African Marsh-Harrier Circus ranivorus Black Harrier Circus maurus (E) We had beautiful views of this stunning endemic raptor in Bontebok N.P. African Harrier Hawk (Gymnogene) Polyboroides typus Dark Chanting-Goshawk Melierax metabates One flew in and perched right next to us in Kruger while we were watching the pack of wild dogs. Eventually it got chased off by an aggressive Gabar Goshawk. Pale Chanting-Goshawk Melierax canorus Gabar Goshawk Melierax gabar African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro We watched one calling and displaying high overhead in Cape Town. Black Goshawk (Great Sparrowhawk) Accipiter melanoleucus Common (Steppe) Buzzard Buteo buteo Mountain (Forest) Buzzard Buteo oreophilus (trizonatus) (E) Just one seen, soaring over our hotel in Wilderness. Jackal Buzzard Buteo rufofuscus

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Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis Verreaux's Eagle Aquila verreauxii Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus

SAGITTARIIDAE (SECRETARY-BIRD) Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius A much wanted bird for the group. After missing it in the Cape, we had distant views in Wakkerstroom before finally getting great views in Kruger.

FALCONIDAE (FALCONS AND CARACARAS) Eurasian (Rock) Kestrel Falco tinnunculus (rupicolus) Greater Kestrel Falco rupicoloides Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus

OTIDIDAE (BUSTARDS) Kori Bustard kori Every a trip highlight, we had great views of several in the grasslands around Satara Camp in Kruger. Ludwig's Bustard ludwigii (E) Stanley (Denham’s) Bustard Neotis denhami Many! After seeing twelve in a single field on the Agulhas Plains, we saw a puffed-up male in Bontebok National Park the following day. White-bellied Bustard (Barrow’s Korhaan) senegalensis Beautiful views of a pair on a distant hillside near Wakkerstroom. Blue Bustard (Korhaan) Eupodotis caerulescens (E) Karoo Bustard (Korhaan) Eupodotis vigorsii (E) A handsome pair was seen near De Hoop National Park. Red-crested Bustard (Korhaan) Eupodotis ruficrista (E) After hearing many, we eventually had very nice look in Kruger. Black Bustard (Southern Black Korhaan) Eupodotis afra (E) Black-bellied Bustard melanogaster Beautiful looks of a couple in Kruger.

RALLIDAE (RAILS, GALLINULES, AND COOTS) African Rail Rallus caerulescens (H) Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra (African) Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio (madgascariensis) Eurasian Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata

GRUIDAE (CRANES) Gray Crowned Crane Balearica regulorum We saw many of this stunning crane, including a flock of over 30 near Wakkerstroom. Blue Crane Grus paradisea (E)

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South Africa’s national bird, we saw them several times in the Cape and Wakkerstroom.

BURHINIDAE (THICK-KNEES) Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus

CHARADRIIDAE (PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS) Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellus armatus Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus (African) Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus Black-bellied (Gray) Plover Pluvialis squatarola Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus

HAEMATOPODIDAE (OYSTERCATCHERS) African Black Oystercatcher Haematopus moquini (E)

RECURVIROSTRIDAE (STILTS AND AVOCETS) Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta

JACANIDAE (JACANAS) African Jacana Actophilornis africana

SCOLOPACIDAE (SANDPIPERS AND ALLIES) Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Common Redshank Tringa tetanus A rarity in South Africa, we saw a previously reported individual in West Coast National Park. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Red Knot Calidris canutus Sanderling Calidris alba Little Stint Calidris minuta Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos A vagrant in South Africa, we saw and photographed on in Kruger. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Ruff Philomachus pugnax African Snipe Gallinago nigripennis

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GLAREOLIDAE (PRATINCOLES AND COURSERS) Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii We found a group in Kruger, including a fully-grown juvenile.

LARIDAE (GULLS, TERNS, AND SKIMMERS) Gray-hooded (-headed) Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus Hartlaub's Gull Chroicocephalus hartlaubii Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Sabine's Gull Larus sabini Caspian Tern Sterna caspia Great Crested Tern Sterna bergii Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis Common Tern Sterna hirundo Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus

STERCORARIIDAE (SKUAS AND JAEGERS) Brown (Subantarctic) Skua Stercorarius antarcticus

PTEROCLIDAE (SANDGROUSE) Namaqua Sandgrouse Pterocles namaqua (E) Only one individual seen, flushed from the roadside in the Karoo.

COLUMBIDAE (PIGEONS AND DOVES) Rock Pigeon Columba livia Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea Rameron Pigeon Columba arquatrix Lemon Dove Columba larvata Our hotel in Wilderness makes this difficult-to-see species very easy to see indeed. Mourning (Collared-)Dove Streptopelia decipiens Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Ring-necked (Cape Turtle) Dove Streptopelia capicola Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos Namaqua Dove Oena capensis African Green-Pigeon Treron calva

PSITTACIDAE (PARROTS) Brown-headed Parrot Poicephalus cryptoxanthus One of Kruger’s top birds, we found them in both camps we stayed in.

MUSOPHAGIDAE (TURACOS) Knysna Turaco Tauraco corythaix (H) Another bird that our hotel in Wilderness makes easy. Not always easy to see in the forest, this stunningly beautiful endemic ate fruits at a feeder just feet away from our breakfast table.

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Purple-crested Turaco Musophaga porphyreolophus Common in our first camp in Kruger where we had beautiful views. Gray Go-away Bird Corythaixoides concolor

CUCULIDAE (CUCKOOS) Pied Cuckoo Oxylophus jacobinus Levaillant's Cuckoo Oxylophus levaillantii Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus (H) Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas Diderick Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius White-browed (Burchell's) Coucal Centropus superciliosus (burchellii )

STRIGIDAE (OWLS) African Scops-Owl Otus senegalensis We photographed “the most photographed scops-owl in the world,” according to the sign nearby! Spotted Eagle-Owl Bubo africanus A chick was in the nest with a parent standing guard nearby in Kirstenbosch. Pel's Fishing-Owl Scotopelia peli While in Cape Town, we received word that one was in a garden near our hotel. We delayed dinner to hurry after it and luckily it was still there in the fading daylight. This was the first record ever for the Western Cape and is a bird that is not easy to find anywhere in Africa. African Wood-Owl Strix woodfordi (H)

CAPRIMULGIDAE (NIGHTJARS AND ALLIES) Rufous-cheeked Nightjar Caprimulgus rufigena Great views on our night drive in the Karoo.

APODIDAE (SWIFTS) Alpine Swift Apus melba Common (European) Swift Apus apus We caught up with a flock of these migrants on our way out of Kruger. African (Black) Swift Apus barbatus Little Swift Apus affinis Horus Swift Apus horus White-rumped Swift Apus caffer African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus

COLIIDAE (MOUSEBIRDS) Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus White-backed Mousebird Colius colius (E) Red-faced Mousebird Urocolius indicus This bird really gave us the runaround until—after hearing it many times—we caught up with it in the Karoo.

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TROGONIDAE (TROGONS) Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina (H)

ALCEDINIDAE (KINGFISHERS) Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis We had beautiful views of this gorgeous kingfisher in Kruger. Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

MEROPIDAE (BEE-EATERS) European Bee-eater Merops apiaster

CORACIIDAE (ROLLERS) Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus

UPUPIDAE (HOOPOES) Eurasian (African) Hoopoe Upupa epops (africana) Another one that took a while to get good views of, and good views we got, with them singing, fighting, and generally carousing in our camp in Kruge.r

PHOENICULIDAE (WOODHOOPOES AND SCIMITAR-BILLS) Green Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus Common Scimitar-bill Rhinopomastus cyanomelas

BUCEROTIDAE (HORNBILLS) Southern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus rufirostris Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus leucomelas African Gray Hornbill Tockus nasutus

BUCORVIDAE (GROUND HORNBILLS) Southern Ground Hornbill Bucorvus leadbeateri Always a favorite, we saw a family group in Kruger, including getting to see them fly showing off their white wings.

LYBIIDAE (AFRICAN BARBETS) Crested Barbet Trachyphonus vaillantii Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus (H) (Acacia) Pied Barbet Tricholaema leucomelas (E) Black-collared Barbet Lybius torquatus

PICIDAE (WOODPECKERS) Bennett's Woodpecker Campethera bennettii Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campethera abingoni Knysna Woodpecker Campethera notata (E)

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Often a difficult bird to find, let alone see well, we had scope views for the entire group near Wilderness. Ground Woodpecker Geocolaptes olivaceus (E) Great views of this strange woodpecker in the Karoo and Wakkerstroom. Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens Olive Woodpecker Mesopicos griseocephalus

PLATYSTEIRIDAE (WATTLE-EYES AND BATISES) Cape Batis Batis capensis (E) Chinspot Batis Batis molitor Pririt Batis Batis pririt (E)

MALACONOTIDAE (BUSHSHRIKES AND ALLIES) Brubru Nilaus afer (H) Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis Southern Tchagra Tchagra tchagra (E) Another one that’s often hard to see well, those who made the early morning trip to Victoria’s Bay had astounding views of one singing above the thick scrub. Also seen more briefly in the Karoo. Southern Boubou Laniarius ferrugineus (E) Bokmakierie Telophorus zeylonus (E) Sulphur (Orange-)breasted Bushshrike Telophorus sulfureopectus A typical “camp bird” in Kruger, where we had nice views of this beauty. Olive Bushshrike Telophorus olivaceus (E) We were lucky to have a pair regularly visiting the garden of our hotel in Wilderness, making this sometimes tricky bird easy. Gray-headed Bushshrike Malaconotus blanchoti (H)

LANIIDAE () Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio Lesser Gray Shrike Lanius minor Southern (Common) Fiscal Lanius collaris Magpie Shrike Corvinella melanoleuca

ORIOLIDAE (OLD WORLD ORIOLES) African Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus

DICRURIDAE (DRONGOS) Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis

MONARCHIDAE (MONARCH FLYCATCHERS) African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis Our best views were of the pair nesting in the garden of our hotel in Wilderness.

CORVIDAE (CROWS, JAYS, AND MAGPIES)

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House Crow Corvus splendens This introduced corvid was only seen at the airport in Cape Town. Cape Crow Corvus capensis Corvus albus White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis

CHAETOPIDAE (ROCKJUMPERS) Cape Rockjumper Chaetops frenatus An eleventh hour find, when Ed spotted one sitting on a rock near the top of Swartberg Pass. We ended up with incredible views of two males chasing each other all over the rocks, one eventually returning to the roadside rock next to where we were eating our celebratory lunch.

ALAUDIDAE (LARKS) Monotonous Lark Mirafra passerina (E) The guide was particularly excited to see this unpredictable lark—it was a lifer for him! They were conspicuously singing and displaying along a short stretch of road in Kruger as we were leaving the park. Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana Cape (Agulhas) Clapper Lark Mirafra apiata (marjoriae ) (E) Great views (and hears!) of displaying birds in Bontebok National Park. Eastern Clapper Lark Mirafra fasciolata (E) Rudd's Lark Heteromirafra ruddi (E) A Critically Endangered species, our local guide in Wakkerstroom knew exactly where to find them. It was incredibly sneaky as it bopped through the short grass, but eventually everyone got good views before it flew off towards its nest with a beakful of . Sabota Lark Calendulauda sabota (E) Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes albofasciata Agulhas (Long-billed) Lark Certhilauda brevirostris (E) Eastern Long-billed Lark Certhilauda semitorquata (E) Karoo Long-billed Lark Certhilauda subcoronata (E) Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark Eremopteryx leucotis Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea Pink-billed Lark Spizocorys conirostris Botha's Lark Spizocorys fringillaris (E) Another endangered lark of high elevation grasslands, we found a pair in a pasture near Wakkerstroom. Large-billed Lark Galerida magnirostris (E)

HIRUNDINIDAE (SWALLOWS) Plain (Brown-throated) Martin Riparia paludicola Bank Swallow Riparia riparia Banded Martin Riparia cincta Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica White-throated Swallow Hirundo albigularis

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Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii Pearl-breasted Swallow Hirundo dimidiata Greater Striped-Swallow Cecropsis cucullata Lesser Striped-Swallow Cecropsis abyssinica Rufous-chested (-breasted) Swallow Cecropsis semirufa South African (Cliff) Swallow Petrochelidon spilodera (E) Black Sawwing Psalidoprocne pristoptera

STENOSTIRIDAE (FAIRY FLYCATCHERS) Fairy Flycatcher Stenostira scita (E) We had nice views of this unusual warbler-like flycatcher in Karoo National Park.

PARIDAE (CHICKADEES AND TITS) Southern Black Tit Melaniparus niger Gray Tit Parus afer (E)

REMIZIDAE (PENDULINE-TITS) Southern (Cape) Penduline-Tit Anthoscopus minutus (H) (E)

PYCNONOTIDAE (BULBULS) Sombre Greenbul Andropadus importunus Terrestrial Brownbul Phyllastrephus terrestris It was amazing to see these birds coming in to feeders in Wilderness. Not your typical feeder bird! Black-fronted (Red-eyed) Bulbul Pycnonotus nigricans Common (Dark-capped) Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus (tricolor) Cape Bulbul Pycnonotus capensis (E)

MACROSPHENIDAE (AFRICAN WARBLERS) Cape (Long-billed) Crombec Sylvietta rufescens Cape Grassbird Sphenoeacus afer (E) Victorin's Warbler Cryptilles victorini (H) (E)

PHYLLOSCOPIDAE (LEAF-WARBLERS) Yellow-throated Wood-Warbler Phylloscopus ruficapilla Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus

ACROCEPHALIDAE (REED-WARBLERS AND ALLIES) African (Dark-capped) Yellow Warbler Iduna natalensis (H) African Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus baeticatus (H) Lesser Swamp-Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris

LOCUSTELLIDAE (GRASSBIRDS AND ALLIES) Little Rush Warbler baboecala Knysna Warbler Bradypterus sylvaticus (H) (E)

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CISTICOLIDAE (CISTICOLAS AND ALLIES) Bar-throated Apalis Apalis thoracica Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida Green-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura Rufous-eared Warbler Malcorus pectoralis (E) Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chinianus Red-headed (Gray-backed) Cisticola Cisticola subruficapilla (E) Wailing Cisticola Cisticola lais Tinkling (Levaillant's) Cisticola Cisticola tinniens Piping Cisticola (Neddicky) Cisticola fulvicapillus Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Cloud Cisticola Cisticola textrix Pale-crowned Cisticola Cisticola cinnamomeus (H) Wing-snapping Cisticola Cisticola ayresii Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava Karoo Prinia Prinia maculosa (E) Drakensberg Prinia Prinia hypoxantha (E) Namaqua Warbler Phragmacia substriata (E) Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis

SYLVIIDAE (OLD WORLD WARBLERS) Bush Blackcap Lioptilus nigricapillus (E) We had great views of this difficult endemic in an ouhout thicket near Wakkerstroom. Layard's Warbler (Tit-Babbler) Sylvia layardi (E) Rufous-vented Warbler (Tit-Babbler) Sylvia subcaeruleum

ZOSTEROPIDAE (YUHINAS, WHITE-EYES, AND ALLIES) Cape White-eye Zosterops pallidus

LEIOTHRICHIDAE (LAUGHINGTHRUSHES) Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii

PROMEROPIDAE (SUGARBIRDS) Cape Sugarbird Promerops cafer (E) One of South Africa’s top endemics, we had many great views of this unusual and beautiful bird.

MUSCICAPIDAE (OLD WORLD FLYCATCHERS) Southern Black Flycatcher pammelaina Fiscal Flycatcher Sigelus silens ( E) Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata Dusky-brown (Dusky) Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta Ashy Flycatcher Muscicapa caerulescens Gray Tit-Flycatcher Myoparus plumbeus Karoo Scrub-robin Cercotrichas coryphaeus (E)

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Red-backed (White-browed) Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys Cape Robin-Chat Cossypha caffra White-throated Robin-Chat Cossypha humeralis (E) Superb views of a very responsive individual in our first camp in Kruger. White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini Chorister Robin-chat Cossypha dichroa (E) Great views of the resident pair in our hotel’s garden in Wilderness, where they were nesting in vines that covered part of the house. Sentinel Rock Thrush Monticola exploratory (E) Cape Rock Thrush Monticola rupestris (E) African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Buff-streaked Bushchat Oenanthe bifasciata (E) Southern Anteater-Chat Myrmecocichla formicivora (E) Mocking Cliff-Chat Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris We were lucky to catch up with this rock-lover at Abel Erasmus pass on our way to Joburg from Kruger. Karoo Chat Cercomela schlegelii (E) Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris Mountain Wheatear Oenanthe monticola (E) Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata

TURDIDAE (THRUSHES AND ALLIES) Kurrichane Thrush Turdus libonyanus Olive Thrush Turdus olivaceus Karoo Thrush Turdus smithi (E)

STURNIDAE (STARLINGS) EuropeanStarling Sturnus vulgaris Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea Cape Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis nitens (E) Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus Burchell's Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis australis Black-bellied Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis corruscus Another odd bird to see at a bird feeder, but they too were coming to the feeders at our hotel in Wilderness. Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster A bird that has to be seen to be believed, we had great views of the glittering purple back of several males in Kruger. African Pied Starling Spreo bicolor (E) Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio Pale-winged Starling Onychognathus nabouroup (E)

BUPHAGIDAE (OXPECKERS) Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus

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Much less common in Kruger than the preceding species, we saw it with impala in Kruger.

NECTARINIIDAE (SUNBIRDS AND SPIDERHUNTERS) Orange-breasted Sunbird Nectarinia violacea (E) Mouse-colored (Gray) Sunbird Cyanomitra veroxii Amethyst Sunbird Chalcomitra amethystina Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa Southern Double-collared Sunbird Cinnyris chalybeus (E) Greater Double-collared Sunbird Cinnyris afra (E) Mariqua (Marico) Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis White-breasted (-bellied) Sunbird Cinnyris talatala Dusky Sunbird Cinnyris fusca (E)

MOTACILLIDAE ( AND ) Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp Mountain Wagtail Motacilla clara African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys Yellow-breasted Pipit Hemimacronyx chloris (E) Much more colorful than most pipits, we had great views of this beautiful and endangered species near Wakkerstroom. Orange-throated (Cape) Longclaw Macronyx capensis (E) Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus

EMBERIZIDAE (BUNTINGS, SPARROWS AND ALLIES) Lark-like Bunting Emberiza impetuani (E) Cape Bunting Emberiza capensis Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris

FRINGILLIDAE (SISKINS, CROSSBILLS, AND ALLIES) Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Cape Siskin Pseudochloroptila totta (E) Black-headed Canary Serinus alario (E) Cape Canary Serinus canicollis Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus Forest Canary Serinus scotops (E) Black-throated Canary Serinus atrogularis (E) Brimstone Canary Serinus sulphuratus Yellow Canary Serinus flaviventris (E) White-throated Canary Serinus albogularis Streaky-headed Seedeater Serinus gularis

PASSERIDAE (OLD WORLD SPARROWS)

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House Sparrow Passer domesticus Cape Sparrow Passer melanurus Southern Gray-headed Sparrow Passer diffusus

PLOCEIDAE (WEAVERS AND ALLIES) Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver Bubalornis niger Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps Cape Weaver Ploceus capensis (E) Lesser Masked Weaver Ploceus intermedius Southern Masked-Weaver Ploceus velatus Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea (Southern) Red Bishop Euplectes orix Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis White-winged Widowbird Euplectes albonotatus Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris Red-collared Widowbird Euplectes ardens Long-tailed Widowbird Euplectes progne

ESTRILDIDAE (WAXBILLS AND ALLIES) Swee Waxbill Coccopygia melanotis (E) Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Blue-breasted Cordonbleu (Blue Waxbill) Uraeginthus angolensis Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala

VIDUIDAE (INDIGOBIRDS) Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura

Swainson’s Francolin is a common roadside bird in Kruger.

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An elephant and a male white rhino face off at a Kruger waterhole.

MAMMAL LIST

RODENTIA: RODENTS Striped Mouse Rhabdomys pumilio Tree Squirrel Paraxerus cepapi Brant’s Whistling Rat Parotomys brantsii (E) Great views in the Karoo National Park campground.

LAGOMORPHA: HARES Scrub Hare Lepus capensis

PHOCIDAE: SEALS & SEALIONS Cape Fur Seal Arctocephalus pusillus (E)

MYSTICETI: BALEEN WHALES Bryde’s Whale Balaenoptera brydei

CERCOPITHECIDAE: CHEEK-POUCHED MONKEYS Chacma Baboon Papio ursinus (E) Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops

GALAGIDAE : GALAGOES South African (Lesser) Galago Galago moholi (E)

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Not an east animal to see well, we had great views on our way to dinner one night in Kruger.

CANIDAE: DOGS & ALLIES African Wild Dog Lycaon pictus A rarely seen beast, we saw the same pack twice. The second time we had incredible, close views as they finished off their impala breakfast.

HYAENIDAE: HYAENAS Spotted Hyena Crocuta crocuta

VIVERRIDAE: GENETS & CIVETS African Civet Civettictis civetta Brief views on our Kruger night drive. Blotched (Large-spotted) Genet Genetta tigrina Fantastic views of one high in a tree on our Kruger night drive.

FELIDAE: CATS All four cats were seen on a single night drive in Kruger! And we had prolonged, close views of all of them. African Wild Cat Felis lybica Serval Felis serval Lion Panthera leo Leopard Panthera pardus

HERPESTIDAE: MONGOOSES Small (Cape) Gray Mongoose Galerella pulverulenta (E) Slender Mongoose Galerella sanguinea Only seen by the guide running across the road a couple of times. Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula Great views of this diminutive mongoose on our way out of Kruger. Yellow Mongoose Cynictis penicillata Suricate (Meerkat) Suricata suricatta (E) Always great to see, we saw these adorable mammals a couple of times around Wakkerstroom.

PROCAVIDAE: HYRAXES Cape Rock Hyrax Procavia capensis (E)

ELEPHANTIDAE: ELEPHANTS African Elephant Loxodonta africana

GIRAFFIDAE: GIRAFFES Giraffe Camelopardus giraffa giraffa

EQUIDAE: HORSES

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Cape Mountain Zebra Equus zebra (E) Burchell's Zebra Equus burchellii

HIPPOPOTAMIDAE: HIPPOPOTAMUSES Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibious

RHINOCEROTIDAE: RHINOCEROSES White Rhino Ceratotherium simus We saw an astounding number of these prehistoric looking giants in Kruger, including a herd of eleven individuals.

SUIDAE: PIGS Warthog Phacochoerus africanus

BOVIDAE: HORNED UNGULATES African (Cape) Buffalo Syncerus caffer Eland Taurotragus oryx Greater Kudu Tragelaphus strepsiceros Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus Gemsbok (Southern Oryx) Oryx gazella (E) Common Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus Springbok Antidorcas marsupialis Gray Rhebok Pelea capreolus Blue Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus Red Haartebeest Alcelaphus buselaphus Bontebok Damaliscus dorcas (E) Blesbok Damaliscus phillipsi Impala Aepyceros melampus Klipspringer Oreotragus oreotragus Steenbok Raphicerus campestris Bush (Common) Duiker Sylvicapra grimmia

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