RosŽ ith abundant produce and one of the world’s most Three Golden State chefs share brunch recipes with pink pours to pair. vibrant wine scenes, Cali- Wfornia is a brunch lover’s dream. Midday meal experiences range from high-style city hotspots to tables set among verdant vines in wine country. And what better way to enjoy a meal with friends than with a refreshing bottle of rosé? When you can’t travel to the Golden State, look to these recipes from three California chefs for brunch & Shine at home.

BY MIKE DeSIMONE & JEFF JENSSEN

PHOTOS BY TED & CHELSEA CAVANAUGH

FOOD STYLING BY

PROP STYLING: ASTRID CHASTKA ASTRID STYLING: PROP JAMIE KIMM

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07-2020_Brunch_Pairings_HY.indd 86 4/24/20 5:53 PM 07-2020_Brunch_Pairings_HY.indd 87 4/24/20 5:53 PM WEE18773-00_p086.pgs 04.24.2020 18:00 WEE18773-00_p087.pgs 04.24.2020 18:00 South A Scramble Pair It Ela Jean Beedle, who’s the wine buyer for The Spinster With a focus on Sonoma County cuisine, Liza Hinman, chef at The Spinster Sisters, combines locally grown ingredients Sisters, suggests Suriol and international infl uences to create an ever-changing menu of imaginative fare. This deceptively simple yet delicious Brut Nature Rosat Cava, a dish is named aft er the Santa Rosa street that the restaurant calls home. sparkling rosé from Spain. “An ideal balance of bright fruit Courtesy Liza Hinman, chef/owner, The Spinster Sisters, Santa Rosa, CA and savory minerality will stand up to the rich bacon and deep caramelized onion and lift up more delicate flavors of sweet tomatoes and peppery . Also, what’s brunch without bubbles?” To expand your options, stay in the Old World with a Crémant d’Alsace rosé. These 10 large eggs Crack eggs into medium 100% Pinot Noir sparklers 3 tablespoons heavy bowl. Add cream or milk and have little to no dosage added, cream or milk 1½ teaspoons . Whisk so they’re bracingly fresh with 2 teaspoons kosher salt, thoroughly to combine, and poppy red-fruit notes to play plus more to taste set aside. off the tomatoes and . 4 slices bacon, diced Warm nonstick sauté pan Like the Cava recommended 2 tablespoons canola oil over medium heat. Add bacon above, they’re made in the and cook, stirring occasionally. traditional method, with a ¼ cup thin-sliced yellow onion Transfer to paper towel–lined minimum of nine months spent plate. Set aside. aging on lees, giving them 2/3 cup diced zucchini Add 1 tablespoon oil to pan. a robust body to handle the ½ cup heirloom cherry Add onion and ¼ teaspoon bacon and cheese. tomatoes, halved salt. Reduce heat to low. Stir 3 tablespoons chèvre-style onions often until they begin goat cheese to brown. Remove onions, and 6 basil leaves, cut into wipe pan clean. ribbons Return pan to medium 1 tablespoon thin-sliced heat. Add zucchini, and cook until it begins to soften, 3–4 1 tablespoon fine-chopped minutes. Sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt. Add , to taste cherry tomatoes, and return cooked bacon and onions to pan. Cook for 1 minute. Raise heat to medium-high. Pour in egg mixture and allow to set for 45 seconds. Stir gently with rubber spatula until eggs are scrambled and cooked through. Sprinkle with goat cheese and herbs. Toss to incorporate, and remove from heat. Season with , to taste. Serves 6.

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07-2020_Brunch_Pairings_HY.indd 88 4/24/20 5:54 PM 07-2020_Brunch_Pairings_HY.indd 89 4/24/20 5:54 PM WEE18773-00_p088.pgs 04.24.2020 17:59 WEE18773-00_p089.pgs 04.24.2020 17:59 Pair It Salad Lyonnaise The Jolie-Laide Rosé of Valdiguié from Russian River Valley, California “works Jeune et Jolie offers the charm of low-key French food paired with the best produce from Southern California: A seafood- wonders with the salad and vegetable-driven menu is served alongside an inventive roster of cocktails and wines focused on minimal interven- Lyonnaise,” says Leigh Lacap, tion. Andrew Bachelier’s interpretation of Salad Lyonnaise involves a bit of prep work, but aren’t your friends worth it? beverage director at Jeune et Jolie. “A touch of tannin Courtesy Andrew Bachelier, chef, Jeune et Jolie, Carlsbad, CA [provides] some welcome relief from the richness of the lardon. This wine also carries a lightning bolt of acidity that cuts right through the egg.” Hailing from farther north, an array of natural Oregon rosés will offer comparable body and texture, often with similar grapefruit characteristics.

1 cup grapeseed oil In medium mixing bowl,

1/3 cup Banyuls or Sherry vigorously whisk grapeseed oil vinegar and Banyuls vinegar until well 1 shallot, diced fine combined. Add shallot and ¼ ¾ teaspoon salt teaspoon salt. Set aside. Over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter butter in sauté pan. Add 8 ounces thick bacon, cut bacon, and cook until dark and into ¾-inch cubes crisp. Set aside. ½ avocado, pitted and Blend avocado, arugula, peeled , Champagne vinegar, 1 handful arugula fines herbes and ½ teaspoon 1 garlic , peeled salt on high until smooth. ¼ cup Champagne vinegar Spread on bottoms of six large, ¼ cup fines herbes (recipe shallow bowls. at left) Toss lettuce with oil- 10 ounces spring mix lettuce vinegar mixture, and Fines Herbes with frisée distribute evenly among 6 soft-boiled eggs, halved bowls. Top with bacon and Chop finely 1 small bunch eggs. Sprinkle sea salt and Flaky sea salt, to taste parsley, 1 small bunch , Espelette pepper atop, to taste. 1 small bunch chives and 6 Espelette pepper powder, to Serves 6. taste leaves. Combine in small mixing bowl.

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07-2020_Brunch_Pairings.indd 90 4/24/20 5:02 PM 07-2020_Brunch_Pairings.indd 91 4/24/20 5:03 PM WEE18773-00_p090.pgs 04.24.2020 17:38 WEE18773-00_p091.pgs 04.24.2020 17:38 Oakland Kimchi Fried Rice Pair It Jenny Schwarz, Hopscotch’s co-owner/general manager, Diner-style Hopscotch serves classic American food with Japanese and Korean infl uences. Chef Kyle Itani sources “highly recommends” Luli sustainably produced local ingredients for comfort food paired with co-owner Jenny Schwarz’s innovative cocktail and RosŽ from the Central Coast, wine list. Give yourself time: The components for this dish, while easy to make, do need to be prepared a day ahead. California. “The kimchi has some and rich flavors, Courtesy Kyle Itani, chef, Hopscotch, Oakland, CA so it needs a wine with some structure to balance it out,” she says. “This rosé is bone dry and has a lot of acidity. The bright, crisp floral notes of lemon and white peach blossoms round out as it finishes with a bit of minerality. However, there is a softness to this wine that makes it so easy to drink, a perfect accompaniment to the kimchi rice as its ability to be a quintessential comfort food.” Rosés from South Africa offer similar soft, ripe fruit tones balanced by plentiful acidity. They’ll make a refreshing complement to this dish while sticking with a New World style.

2¾ cups soy sauce In glass bowl, combine ¼ cup 6 hard-boiled eggs soy sauce with 2½ cups water. 1 cup sugar Submerge eggs, and refrigerate overnight. 2 cups saké Heat oven to 350˚F. 2 pounds pork belly, cut In Dutch oven, combine into 6 pieces sugar, 1 cup saké, 2 cups 2 tablespoons vegetable soy sauce and 6 cups water. Cut 2 heads Napa cabbage oil Submerge pork belly in into 1-inch squares. In 12 cups cooked brown rice mixture, and cover. Braise large bowl, mix with 2 3 cups kimchi (recipe for 2 hours, and remove from pounds daikon (peeled at right, or use store oven. Let cool and refrigerate and sliced thin), 4 ounces bought) in liquid overnight. Slice pork minced garlic chives, ¼ belly thin. cup gochugaru Korean chile On day you plan to serve, flake, 2 tablespoons dried, heat vegetable oil over salted baby shrimp and 6 medium heat in large skillet tablespoons kosher salt. or wok. Add rice, and toast Transfer to plastic container. for approximately 3 minutes. Weigh ingredients down with Stir in remaining 1 cup large, sealed plastic bag filled saké, remaining ½ cup soy with water. Make sure liquid sauce and kimchi. Cook for from vegetables covers all approximately 3 minutes. Top ingredients beneath the plastic with pork belly and marinated bag. Let ferment at room eggs. Serves 6. temperature for 4 days.

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