Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Council

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4.0 HISTORY AND CONTEXT

Figure 10: Sandbed, Undated 19th Century View (Mackay)

4.1 Any assessment of the value of a heritage site must be based on a full understanding of its history and context. Although significant background information already existed from a variety of sources and a number of attempts had been made to draw this together, including the Council’s own conservation area appraisal, no single work attempted to bring together the development of the historic street plan and core of the town as it relates to the built heritage.

4.2 The first step in the development of this plan was therefore a wide ranging desk assessment of historical and archival information in order to draw together, for the first time, a thorough understanding of the site’s past and present importance. Work was undertaken by Austin-Smith: Lord, and included research with a wide range of sources including local archives and RCAHMS/NMRS.

4.3 The study made particular use of Kilmarnock – A history of the Burgh of Kilmarnock and of Kilmarnock & Loudoun District by James A. MacKay (Alloway, 1992), Adamson’s Rambles Round Kilmarnock (1875), Maps of Kilmarnock by James E Knox (Kilmarnock and District History Group, 1992), Archibald Anderson’s Rambles Around Kilmarnock (1885), and the works of Frank Beattie.

Historic Development

4.4 Little is known about the early history of Kilmarnock; whilst there is evidence of early human settlement in the wider locale, little archaeological excavation has thus far taken place within the historic core of the town. A limited number of Neolithic artefacts have been found, including an urn containing arrowheads on what is now the northern part of Titchfield Street and an ard (simple plough) to the south of Glencairn Square, however few firm conclusions can be reached regarding the town’s very earliest origins. Austin-Smith:Lord LLP Council

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4.5 Located at an important crossroads straddling both the -Ayr and the Irvine valley routes, the town was certainly a local trading centre and focal point long before it is first mentioned in surviving archives. The original village appears to have developed around what is now the Laigh Kirk, the site where it is suggested that Mernoc founded his church in the 7th century. The current structure dates from 1802, however records refer to a date stone of 1410 on the previous building and it seems likely that parts were considerably older.

Although archaeological investigation has yet to be undertaken, the irregular shape of the kirkyard (truncated by Kirkhaugh, now Bank Street, constructed from 1710 onwards) is typical of early Christian sites. Adamson notes the discovery of numerous human remains within Low Church Lane and during the construction of John Dickie Street, although no more detailed accounts had been identified at the time of the writing.

4.6 There is no mention of Kilmarnock in any surviving mediaeval charters; Mackay notes that the first brief written reference is in is found in John Barbour’s 14th century poem Brus. During the Wars of Independence the Boyd family rose to prominence, including the granting of the lands of Kilmarnock, Bondington (Bonnyton) and Hertshaw to Sir Robert Bruce in 1308 and 1316.

4.7 By the 16th century, the town was starting to expand beyond this medieval core, in particular around the area of the Cross. Cheapside Street was established and around the same time a bridge was constructed over the Kilmarnock Water – the predecessor of the existing bridge – encouraging development along Sandbed Street, the principle approach from the south. The earliest detailed document relating to the town does not appear until November 1547 and concerns the election of a new parish priest, including the names of the 300 parishioners who were present. By the end of the century it was of sufficient importance to be created a burgh of barony, granted on 5th June 1592 by James VI, although this is significantly later than other towns in the area such as Newmilns (1490/1) and Kilmaurs (1527).

4.8 The earliest detailed description of the town is provided by Timothy Pont (1565 - 1614), who spent the late 1580s and the 1590s travelling throughout Scotland, mapping the country. In Kyle, in Cuningham, Cuningham he notes the town together with estates which can still be identified: Cragie-Wallace 4 m. up S. syd. Ellerslie 2 m. up on the S. syd Caprintoun 2 m. up S. syd. Ricardtoun 2 m. S. syd. Kilmarnock a town ovir aganis Ricardtoun the river running betuix them. The Dinn above Kilmarnock 1 m. N. syd. Crawfurd-land 1 m. furdir up N. syd. Sloss hard by on that same syd. Rowallen 2 m. up on the N. syd, from the river 2 m.

4.9 As part of his 1609 survey of Cunninghame Pont provided a more detailed description: …a large village and of grate repaire. It hath in it a weekly market, iot hath a fair stone bridge over the river Marnock vich glydes hard by the said toune, till it falls into the river Irving. It hath a pretty church from vich ye village castell and lordschipe takes its name….the Lord Biyd is now Lord of it, to quhosse predicessors it hath belonged for many generations…. (Mackay, 14). Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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4.10 Following his visit in 1658, Richard Frank wrote a rather less flattering account of the town: …(the) inhabitants dwell in such ugly houses as, in my opinion, are little better than huts; and generally of a size, all built so low, that their eaves hang dangling to touch the earth…and that which is worse than all the rest, is their unproptionate, ill contrivance…not one good structure is to be found in Kilmarnock; nor do I remember any wall it has, but a river there is…that runs through the town; over which there stood a bridge so wretchedly antient, that it’s unworthy of our commendations. (Mackay, 14)

4.11 There is no record of the construction of the original bridge referred to by Pont and Frank, and it does not appear in the town records until 1753 when it was the subject of extensive reconstruction work to make it more safe for all sorts of traffic. Only nine years later it was severely damaged by floods and was completely rebuilt.

4.12 Further growth occurred in the southwest and in particular to the northeast around Fore Street and Soulis Street; by 1732 the High Kirk was constructed on what was then the edge of town to meet the needs of a growing population – by 1750 it rivalled Irvine and had surpassed Ayr. Contemporary accounts suggest little improvement since Frank’s visit; single storey, thatched huts clustered along narrow lanes with only a few two-storey stone buildings accessed by way of external staircases. The principal streets were High Street, Fore Street, Back Street, Croft Street, Strand, and Sandbed. Green Bridge was erected to the east in 1759, and Timmer Brig in 1762.

4.13 In 1735 a fire destroyed the Dean Castle, to the north of the town, and the Boyd family moved the Kilmarnock House on what is now the car park on the northern side of St. Marnock Street. The House is believed to have been built in the late 17th century, with further additions between 1735 and 1745 although these were halted by the Boyd’s support of the ultimately unsuccessful Jacobite uprising. The grounds extended to the south into what is now the Howard Park, including Lady’s Walk which formed the western side of the Kilmarnock Water until its rerouting.

Figure 11: Kilmarnock House, Undated (Mackay) Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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Figure 12: Town Plan of Kilmarnock, 1783 (Mackay)

Figure 13: Town Plan of Kilmarnock, 1808 (Knox) Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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4.14 The first major redevelopment of the town took place as early as 1765 when the Earl of Glencairn set out the new street between the town centre and Riccarton. The original roadway was replaced by a new, straight, and broad street running straight and widening around two-thirds of the way along its length to form Glencairn Square. If it was intended to stimulate southern growth it was of doubtful success, leading to little more than strip development until well into the 19th century and largely comprising simple single and two storey houses.

4.15 Kilmarnock’s transformation from a modest burgh town to prosperous county town took place during the Industrial Revolution; the 1790 Statistical Account records a population of 6,776 within the Parish, 5,670 of whom were in the town itself. By 1802 this had risen to around 8,000. Textiles and weaving, the mainstay of the town, was developed greatly. Carpet manufacture began in the early 19th century. The plentiful supply of local coal led to the establishment of the Kilmarnock-Troon wagonway, one of the first railways, and an engineering industry began to develop. Other industries included tanning, shoemaking, distilling, and fireclay/tile manufacture. The level of growth was predictably exponential, and in the 100 years up to 1901 the population grew more than fourfold to 34,165.

4.16 This massive increase saw a commensurate growth in the size of the town as it developed away from its overcrowded core. The early 19th century saw planned redevelopment and the construction of a number of new thoroughfares such as New Bridge and King Street (1804) which ran south from the Cross, and included new Council Chambers built over the bridge. This replaced Sandbed as the main route into town, although development along the eastern side was initially sporadic and open fields remained until at least 1819.

4.17 Portland Street (1812) was developed north from the Cross to meet Wellington Street (1816) and thereafter Dean Street, replacing the earlier restricted and rather tortuous route of Foregate-Soulis Street-High Street-Dean Lane via the town holm (now Townholm) – also the historic route between the town and the Dean Castle. It was during this period that the town began to spread westward and streets such as Morton Place and Grange Street were developed; Kilmarnock House remained amidst heavily wooded policies, however the termination of the horse-drawn railroad from Troon (1812) was formed immediately adjacent, as was a turnpike road to Irvine.

4.18 A marked recession following the end of the Napoleonic Wars in 1815 lead to a halt in growth until the 1820s, when further improvements and expansion included the construction of Sandbed Damn (1821), the gasworks in Park Street (1823), Bullet Road (now Dundonald Road, the original name being based upon a popular game similar to petanque). The cholera epidemic of 1831-32 halted progress only briefly, with St. Marnock Street and Great (now North and South) Hamilton Street developed from around 1836 as part of a planned south-westerly expansion. By 1851 the population has risen to 21,283.

4.19 In 1843 the Glasgow, Paisley, Kilmarnock & Ayr Railway reached the town via Paisley, Johnston, Kilbarchan, , Dalry, , and Crosshouse before curving to approach Kilmarnock from the north and terminating on what was then still called Shilling (or Sheeling) Hill. The first main line station, immediately west of the current building, was built in 1850 whilst the present station – originally an extension to the older structure – was built from 1877 following the expansion of the network to include lines to the Irvine Valley, Dumfries, and the more direct Barrhead-Glasgow route. Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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Figure 14: Kilmarnock, 1819 (East Ayrshire Council/Dick Institute) Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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Figure 15: Kilmarnock, 1832 (Knox)

Figure 16: OS County Series, 1856 (Reproduced by permission of the Trustees of the National Library of Scotland) Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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Figure 17: The Cross Looking to Foregate and Regent Street, late 19th Century (Knox)

Figure 18: The Cross Looking to Bank Street and the Laigh Kirk, late 19th Century (Knox). Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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4.20 With the new station located at the periphery of the town centre, the need for a new street to provide the correct image of the town to rail travellers was identified. John Finnie Street, named after the Kilmarnock-born merchant who provided financial support for the scheme, was formed through what were largely backlands and gardens and opened in October 1864. In doing so, a number of earlier routes such as Nelson Street and Dunlop Street were bisected. The designer was important local architect William Railton, with Robert Blackwood as surveyor.

4.21 John Finnie Street arguably never became the principle commercial thoroughfare intended, with development taking place only slowly. Nevertheless by the end of the 19th century John Finnie Street had developed into one of the best examples of a planned Victorian Street in the country, bounded by generally high quality, red-sandstone properties in stark contrast to the more traditional, crowded buildings found elsewhere in the town centre.

Figure 19: Opera House, late C19 (Mackay) Figure 20: John Finnie Street, late C19 (Mackay)

Figure 21: The Former Ossington Hotel, John Finnie Street. Mid-20th century postcard (author’s collection) Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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4.22 The northwest part of John Finnie Street, now occupied by the modern telephone exchange, lay within the policies of Langlands House, and was never developed to match the adjacent tenemental properties and public buildings; the corner plot was instead the site of a series of large detached and semi detached villas, the style of which suggests that some or all might predate the street’s formation and are apparently shown on the 1857 map of the town.

Figure 22: North-western John Finnie Street. Late 19th Century View. (Mackay)

Figure 23: The Town Centre Before John Finnie Street, 1857. (Ordnance Survey, from Knox) Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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Figure 24: Kilmarnock, 1896 (Ordnance Survey, from Knox)

4.23 The late 19th century saw further rebuilding within the historic core. John Walker & Son Ltd. constructed the bonded warehouses which largely survive today in Strand Street, and there was further commercial development of King Street as the town’s commercial and shopping centre.

4.24 The Johnnie Walker development is of some note; during the latter parts of the 19th and early 20th century, they greatly expanded their operation within the town centre. The Croft Street / Strand area became almost entirely devoted to the firm, housing bonded warehouses, sheds, engine boilers and stacks, offices, a cooperage, and even a bottle washing department. Only the bonded warehouse and the red Accrington brick stable survive today, although others such as the reconstructed cooperage (opposite the rear of the Ossington Hotel) were not demolished until comparatively recently.

4.25 This economic growth and redevelopment also led to the creation of a number of congested slum areas; Foregate, Soulis, New, and Regent Streets – once a well-to-do part of the town – degenerated into a tight-knit, over-developed slum containing 140 dwellings, 31 shops, six public houses, and six common lodging houses. From 1919 onwards the Town Council embarked upon a programme of slum clearance and new public housing including Holehouse Road, Scott Road, Fulton’s Lane, Townholm, and Longpark. From 1924 a series of increasing ambitious schemes were implemented including Bonnyton, Yorke Place, Annanhill, New Mill Road, Ayr Road, Cragie Road, Stoneyhill, and London Road leading to the relocation of a large part of the population from the centre of the town.

4.26 By the 1960s the central part of Kilmarnock was almost exclusively commercial and manufacturing property, together with yards and associated activities. Slum housing was restricted to Queen Street and Clark Street. Traffic continued to be routed through the town, leading to congestion around the Cross, whilst a scheme to provide a by-pass around the west of the town (now Western Road) was curtailed by housing development. Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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Figure 25: Soulis Street/High Street, late 19th century (Knox)

Figure 26: Soulis Street/High Street, undated but probably late 19th century (Mackay) Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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Figures 27-29: Clockwise from top right – Croft Street, Corner of Croft Street (both part of the Johnnie Walker complex of distillery buildings) and Strand, Grange Place, 1966 (Hume) Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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4.27 As a response to changing shopping needs, economic circumstances, and this perceived traffic problem the larger part of the town centre was comprehensively redeveloped from the late 1960s onwards. Fore Street (now the Foregate) was rebuilt in 1972 to an award-winning scheme by Percy Johnson Marshall & Partners – now unfortunately dominated by the 1975 car park and the more successful Clydesdale Bank of 1975 (the latter formerly terminating East George Street). The loss of the traditional Foregate-High Street streetscape effectively removed an important part of the town’s 16th and 17th century development and is particularly regrettable in hindsight.

4.28 The most notable redevelopment and arguably greatest loss from a historical and architectural perspective was the demolition of the eastern side of King Street as part of Hay Steel MacFarlane’s ambitious but ultimately disappointing Burns Precinct. Although the need for redevelopment to meet changing market needs cannot be in doubt, especially at a time of rapid economic change (Kilmarnock was hit particularly badly by the loss of it’s manufacturing base from the 1960s onwards), a considerable number of important buildings and thoroughfares were lost; Duke Street; Princes Street, Waterloo Street, the old Town Hall, the Commercial Bank.

4.29 The imposition of a one-way system, acting an inner ring road, led to the clearance of buildings and extensive widening along Armour Street, to the east of the town centre, turning John Finnie Street into a very busy main artery. Extensive car parking was formed to the north of the centre.

4.30 Further small scale redevelopment continued through the 1980s leading to some regrettable losses, for example Lauder’s the Ironmongers in Portland Street and the 18th century properties to the rear, whilst East George Street was gradually cleared by the early 1980s leading to a marked loss of urban cohesion. The last major phase of reconstruction to have an impact on the town, however, was the “Portland Gate” development from the mid 1990s onwards. The proposals led to the demolition of all surviving historic properties along the southern part of Portland Street and on Croft Street including the 18th century Wheatsheaf Inn and clearance of warehousing/bonded stores on the upper part of Strand (originally Strandhead).

Figure 30: The Cross and Portland Street Prior to Redevelopment, circa 1973/4 (Mackay) Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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Figures 31-38: Kilmarnock Town Centre and Portland Street Prior to 1980s Redevelopment (Knox) Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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Summary

4.31 Looking at the history of Kilmarnock, we can identify three key phases of development which contribute to the buildings we see today: x A surviving post-medieval core, based around Bank Street and Strand. x A series of wider, planned 19th century streets including King and John Finnie Streets x Modern 20th century redevelopment.

4.32 The post medieval core represents the very earliest history of Kilmarnock and is of inestimable value in helping us understand the origins of the town up until the early 19th century. Much of the early town, particularly north and east of the town centre, has been lost however the remainder includes some of the most important parts of the early settlement: x Sandbed (or Sandbed Street), comprising the main road into town from the south. x Laigh Kirk and its environs, the area where the town is believed to have been founded. x Bank Street and Place, and early planned expansion of the town x Strand (or Strand Street), one of the principle thoroughfares and the key route to Glasgow. x Croft Street, an important 17th and 18th century commercial area x Nelson Street, the main road westwards, together with Dunlop and Grange Streets. x Garden Street, one of the early roads north from the Strand x Church Street,SSoulis Street, and Boyd Street –17th century streets around the High Kirk

4.33 The planned expansion of the town throughout the 19th century defines the centre today, with a series of thoroughfares which reflected both the increasing wealth of Kilmarnock and a response to the crowded, poor quality conditions which were found previously. From a historical perspective the key areas of interest comprise: x Titchfield Street and (High and Low) Glencairn Street, the earliest planned development x King Street, replacing Sandbed as a more appropriate principal approach to the town. x Portland Street, forming the new route to Glasgow and beyond x St. Marnock Street, providing the first formal route to the west and the new suburbs. x John Finnie Street, envisaged as the grand commercial thoroughfare for the town.

4.34 The final phase, and arguably that which has had the greatest impact on the historic streetscape passed down to us today, has been the comprehensive redevelopment of large parts of the east and north of the town centre. There is little to commend this, in historical terms, and it has led to the loss of a number of important parts of the Victorian and pre-Victorian town: x The eastern side of King Street including the early 19th century council buildings. x Duke Street, one of the most important 19th century planned streets in the town x Fragmentation of the traditional route from Foregate to High Street and the High Kirk. x The loss of East George Street and fragmentation of the northern part of Portland Street. x The loss of definition and importance to the northern Strand and Croft Street. Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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Figure 39: Portland Street, Strand, West/East George Street, and Foregate from the North-west, 1955 (Scotsman Publications per SCRAN)

Figure 40: John Finnie Street from the South, 1955 (Scotsman Publications per SCRAN) Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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4.35 There are also a number of specific properties which have important historic associations, whether through their age, relationship to key events, principal phases of expansion and development within the town, or through a relationship to important people or organisations. These comprise: Surviving Early Buildings and Structures x The Laigh Kirk and Old High Kirk, the oldest churches in the town x Sandbed or Old Bridge (excluding modern parapets), the oldest surviving structure x The Wheatsheaf Inn (façade only), a rare 18th century coaching inn x 1-3 Dunlop Street, the only surviving pre-industrial building in Strand x 19-21 Nelson Street (to be confirmed), a possible late 18th century domestic property. x Facades, Garden Street (to be confirmed), probable late 18th/early 19th century. x 2-16 Bank Street (tentative, to be confirmed), possibly late 18th/early 19th century fabric.

19th Century Buildings and Structures x FormerG eorge Hotel (Mason Murphy), the town’s principal early 19th century hotel x TheO ssington Hotel, links to Lady Ossington and the Temperance Movement x FormerO pera House, John Finnie Street, major local building x Former Co-Op Headquarters (now Council Offices), John Finnie St./John Dickie St. x Former Johnnie Walker Offices (now Council Offices), John Finnie St./John Dickie St. x FormerO ddfellows Hall, John Finnie Street x Former Sheriff Court (now Procurator Fiscal), St. Marnock Street, and older fabric to rear x St. Marnock Church, St. Marnock Street x St. Marnock Bridge, St. Marnock Street, part of planned street development x Railway Station, Langlands Brae/Station Brae, important early transport hub x Former Bank of Scotland, Bank Street, important early local bank.

Early 20th Century Buildings and Structures x Former Bonded Warehouses, Strand Street, major redevelopment and local industry x Former Bond Stables, Strand Street, important part of warehouse complex x FormerO pera House, John Finnie Street, major local building

4.34 The property immediately to the east of 19-21 Nelson Street, although at first appearance typically mid 19th century, incorporates what appears to be a late 18th or early 19th century crowstepped gable and older fabric may be simply obscured by modern finishes.

4.35 There exist further important historic buildings immediately adjacent to the conservation areas. Particularly notable examples include the surviving New Bridge on King Street, the late 18th or early 19th century Goldsmith’s Building, possibly parts of Cheapside such as the Loudon Arms (albeit concealed under modern work), and the listed buildings along the western part of King Street. These all have an impact on the setting and character of the conservation area. Austin-Smith:Lord LLP East Ayrshire Council

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Figure 41: George Hotel, Late 19th Century (Author’s Collection)

Figure 42: John Finnie Street from the South, 1960 (Scotsman Publications Per SCRAN)