February / March

An Interrupted Tour of The Victorian High Country

Trip participants Day 2 John & Jenny Malcolm 100 Series TD (Trip leaders) A beautiful day greeted us the next morning so camp was packed up Allan & Helen Kidd 105 Series and we continued down into where the road name changed to the Road. We had a look at the Suggan Buggan Day 1 – February 21 schoolhouse, which was built around 1860. It was essentially a slab hut with one table and a huge fireplace at one end; I guess at most, We left home early on Monday morning, well before Sydney peak- it held about six students. After morning tea, we then backtracked hour(s) to meet up with John and Jenny Malcolm at Jindabyne. It a few kilometres to the first real 4WD of the trip – Ingeegoodbee was partly with exhilaration and a lot of trepidation (I suffer from Track leading onto Macfarlane Track and Cobberas Trail. acrophobia) that I viewed the coming days exploring the Victorian There were dire warnings from Parks Victoria on a notice at the start. High Country. John had promised we would drive a track called The track was rated as “Double Black Diamond” with words such “Billy Goat Bluff” and proceeded to expand on the views that would as “diff locks and winches recommended”, “drive in groups of four be available from both sides of the track – OH JOY! vehicles”, and “experienced drivers with high clearance vehicles and We knew before leaving that some of the tracks John had researched recovery gear”. We were to find out how right that warning was. were closed so we would have to use common sense in deciding We aired down then proceeded up the steep climb at the start of where we would go. the track. There were wonderful views of the surrounding country. Having met at Jindabyne, fuelled both the vehicles, and ourselves, The track did not seem as fearsome as implied by the sign and we we proceeded up the to Tom Groggin where we had made steady progress. We came to our first creek crossing and John intended to cross the and make our way down to (trip leader) volunteered to walk it. The lone traveller we had met Native Dog Flat via Davies High Plains. The first of our challenges the night before, Greg, was waiting at this point and asked if he had arrived. We found two places where a crossing was shown on the map but the river was quite deep and running too swiftly to A short water crossing attempt, and it was not even deemed safe to attempt it on foot. After perusing the maps we decided to backtrack to Jindabyne and then go up the Barry Highway. The Barry Highway was a lovely drive. A lot of which was beside the Snowy River, particularly after the blacktop turned into a dirt road (still called a highway) and eventually into something more resembling a track. We eventually pulled into the Pinch River bush camping area a bit later than expected. There was plenty of wood and a great place to camp. A lone traveller called over to say g’day; we were to see more of him later.

Getting ready for one of the many deep crossings on the trip 46 TLCC NEWS OCTOBER 2011 MAKIN' TRACKS could come along with us. We were very pleased he did since we Day 3 were able to make use of his chain saw on several occasions. My son was supposed to have returned mine before the trip but somehow John took pity on us and allowed a late start at 10:00 am. There was a forgot! We then agreed on a crossing strategy, which we then very heavy dew/frost in conjunction with zero degrees overnight, so successfully followed. At this point the first hint of trouble raised its our weary bodies appreciated the luxury. John also promised an easy head – John found some plastic under his vehicle and found that day; so after saying goodbye to Greg (and his chain saw), we headed several blades of his radiator fan had come off. We continued on off on Nunniong Road past Murphy’s Hut to Moscow Villa Hut and till the next water crossing where we had lunch. I then found that the Bentley Plain Hut. These huts were in excellent condition and the the wiring on my new dual wheel carrier was dragging under the bush camping area at the Bentley Plain Hut was marvellous. A sign car so a quick fix was implemented. After John walked the creek (a at Moscow Villa informed us that the hut was built in the 1940’s by job he seemed to relish), and fitting tarps to the motors, we again a local bushman Bill Ah Chow and the acronym stood for “My Own successfully crossed and continued to the Cobberas Trail. John did Summer Cottage Officially Welcomes Visitors Inside Light Lunch not notice any radiator heating issues, however there was some Available”. Unfortunately no light lunches were seen! vibration at idle. After setting up the camp we headed off on the short trip to The Most of the track was not too difficult until we came to a steep climb Washington. This is a steam winch used in the 1960s for hauling with deep wheel tracks and high protruding rocks. John made it timber up the slopes and loading. The winch started its life in the up, and I was around 30 metres behind when I saw the difficult forests of Western and was purchased by the Victorian section that John had just traversed. My vehicle slipped off a small government to recover timber from the valley floors following one sloping rock and into the deep wheel tracks where one of the rear of the more severe bushfires. tyres sustained a large cut in the sidewall. This left the vehicle in a Day 4 difficult situation as the rear diff was just behind, and substantially lower than a protruding rock I had wanted to avoid. After securing We headed south and on the Bentley Plains Road and onto the the vehicle with the winch, the high lift jack was used to change Woodhouse Creek Track, Campoven Gap Road, and the Mt Tom the tyre. This was a slow, methodical, and potentially dangerous Track. On a few occasions, it seems the GPS maps we were following process; and due to the terrain, it was very difficult to walk up the were somewhat out of date and a bit of head scratching and track to secure the tree protector. Once the tyre was changed, we checking ensued to confirm we were headed in the right direction. commenced road building to gain clearance over the rocks. Using In some areas it seemed we were the first people to use the tracks the winch and some small throttle, the vehicle eventually made it in some time. I was now regretting not hassling my son to get my to the top. Our tag-along buddy then decided to use the winch and chainsaw back! We continued on Watts Creek Rd and eventually made his ascent without any further fanfare. So after two and a half found ourselves in farm country and pulled in at Ensay for morning hours of recovery, it was a tired group that finally made camp in tea and to air up the tyres. Native Dog Flat at around 6:45 pm. It was only later that I realised OK, I knew John was not going to let me off that easy. We headed that John had 33” tyres to my 31”. No doubt, that would have helped down the Alpine Road it was time to air-down again as we turned him over the obstacles. onto the Angora Range road. After travelling through several One item to mention is that we did see what looked like specks of lookouts (it goes without saying that this is wonderful country if gold at the various creek crossings! you are not scared of heights) we then turned down the Stirling Track on our way to the Haunted Stream Track. And there it was – a The difficult and dangerous wheel change on the Cobberas Trail

TLCC NEWS OCTOBER 2011 47 Trying to negotiate the fallen Crossing the Dargo River tree on the Stirling Track

large tree somewhat across the road. Someone had already cut it Day 5 but I think it must have been a small vehicle since there was just enough room to get the Land Cruiser through a diagonal gap across The tyre was repaired and we were finally on our way to Cassilis the road but then there was not enough room to turn the vehicle Road and then onto the Birregun Road. We then visited Boney’s before disappearing over the edge. We gave it a shot but decided to Grave. Boney was a Kelpie and constant and loyal companion of one back out and try to come down via the Dawson City Track. of the local bushmen by the name of Peter Meehan. We wondered We managed to get down to the Haunted Stream and had lunch in at how the impressive granite monument might have compared to a lovely bush campsite. We then proceeded up the Haunted Stream his owner’s grave. Track to find the old town site of Dawson City. I guess it was there Continuing down the road, John stopped and said it was time to but the track was so overgrown it was hard to see anything. After air-down again. Making a sharp right, he disappeared over the going considerably past the GPS location of the town, we managed edge (and I mean disappeared) and onto the Stock Route Track. to do a 25-point turn and then back to continue our trip via the “Here we go again” I thought, so low range was employed and Boomerang Spur Road. Once again, it did not seem like anyone down we went for what seemed and interminable time. I am ever had used the track in years. The pin stripes were becoming more so glad of the capability of our 4WDs. Once down the bottom and frequent as we battled our way up a steep, rocky ascent. Once over the inevitable river crossing, we turned right and had lunch at again, a very large tree that had to have been around one metre in Harrison’s Cut. This cut on the Dargo River was made by goldminers diameter blocked our way. There was no chance of getting through, to reduce the flow of water so they could more easily pan the gold. so this time we executed a 45-point turn. There was an impressive amount of water flowing through the cut Back at our lunch spot, John gave the comforting news of “I see so I guess they succeeded. and smell smoke”! Since we were deep in the bush, we made the After lunch, we headed into Dargo and then to our bush campsite obvious decision to get up to the main track as fast as was feasible at Italian Flat. The town was having a Carpathon (fishing for carp) in the conditions. Once we were in a safer environment, we could event over the weekend; so having pitched our tents, it was off to see three dense columns of smoke not too far ahead of us. John the Dargo pub for dinner. What a meal! They sure know how to fill a made contact on UHF channel 1 with someone who seemed plate in the country. After dinner we watched the locals at the bar official and was told there was a controlled burn-off in progress. for a while and then proceed back to our camp – or so we thought! After explaining our plans, we were told it was safe to continue. John’s vehicle had a great trail of reddish liquid leaking from under We headed on to Brookville Forest Road and then Swifts Creek for the bonnet. It was soon established that the radiator fan was the night. After a very welcome espresso and pastry at the local missing more blades and that the radiator was holed in three places. bakery while setting up camp, I watched as one of my tyres quickly A group from the bar soon gathered and one of these was a diesel deflated. Thank heavens it did not happen as we were getting out mechanic. The group consensus was to try bars leak, black pepper, of the bush fire area! and eggs. After running the motor and inserting pepper and bars

50 TLCC NEWS OCTOBER 2011 leak, the radiator was filled with water and the motor started in an Day 9 attempt to heat the fluid before putting in the eggs. After awhile it became obvious that the water would not get hot enough but the Jenny and I had made the decision to head back into the High leak had stopped. So we decided to go back to our tents and then Country once the Cruiser was repaired. We would at least get to do head for the nearest large town the next day. some of the remainder of the trip. I was convinced that the failure of the fan blades and subsequent damage to the radiator was as Day 6 a result of the pressure plate on the air conditioning compressor coming adrift a few days before we set out. The plate had come We were up at 5:30 am and headed into Dargo to air-up and then off and fallen down onto the front bash plate. When you look at it, drive to Bairnsdale. Poor John, now his compressor would not work! there is no way it can fall down without impacting on the fan. There After using mine, we headed off and arrived in Bairnsdale without was no obvious damage to the fan when I replaced the plate, but no incident around 8:30 am. After breakfast, John drove to the Toyota doubt there had been impact with some of the blades. dealership and waited for them to open. The news was not good; a suitable radiator was not available, nor was there any radiator It was a pity that Allan and Helen were no longer with us, however specialists in town. Since it was Saturday, they could not contact their decision to abandon the trip was understandable given that the suppliers in Melbourne until Monday, and the earliest it would the availability of spares for our repairs could not be confirmed arrive would be Tuesday. So this was the end of our part in the trip. until the Monday, and it was possible they may not have arrived in We pitched our tents in the local caravan park. While John waited Bairnsdale until late Wednesday. for the parts to arrive, we would head home on the next morning. We picked the Cruiser up at around 2:00 pm, refuelled, and set out for Dargo. If ever you are in the area and need assistance, we would Day 7 recommend Dwyer Toyota at Bairnsdale. The staff there could not We packed up in rain, said goodbye, and drove back home via the have been more helpful and they went out of their way to make sure Princes Highway. we were back on the road as soon as possible. On reaching Dargo, we headed straight for the Italian Flat camping area on the Dargo It is a shame the trip had to end in these circumstances, but River. This is a lovely spot located about 10 km north of Dargo. Helen and I had a great time. I now have experience of using all that recovery gear that I spent so much money on (but I don’t Day 10 mind if that is the only time I use it). It goes to show that the key to doing this sort of trip is to be adaptable, well prepared, carry all The plan for the day was to do a loop through Grant and Talbotville, the appropriate equipment (such as a chain saw – sigh!), and have returning to our campsite for a second night. The drive up to Grant various options worked out. was easy and uneventful. We reached the cemetery first and had a look around at what remains of the identifiable gravesites. Sadly Thanks to John and Jenny for the work you put into the trip the cemetery is gradually being overgrown by the bush. After the preparations and your company. Also thanks to John for walking cemetery we headed down to the abandoned town site to look all those creek crossings (and the balancing acts in the fast flowing around and have the obligatory morning coffee. We saw evidence water); I guess you enjoy the water temperature in the Snowy’s. of previous campers destroying signs, placed by Parks Victoria, to Allan Kidd obtain firewood. This is really annoying when you consider that

52 TLCC NEWS OCTOBER 2011 there is an abundance of firewood in the area, and it gives weight assistance in that regard. They had basic first aid available and were to the arguments to close these areas off. A case of the irresponsible waiting for the arrival of Paramedics from Bright. They appeared to minority making it more difficult for the responsible majority! have done all they could do at that time. We then continued, as we After touring the Grant town site we set out for Talbotville and had nothing more to offer them. experienced some spectacular views on the way. We had originally We reached the turn off to Blue Rag and let a little more air out of planned to go down the Bulltown Spur Track to the old Stonewall the tyres knowing that we would have to wait until we reached town site then along the past the Hogtown site to civilisation again to air up. The track out to the Blue Rag trig point Talbotville. However given that we were by ourselves, and without was steep and rocky in places, however it was easily negotiated. The a compressor to operate the lockers, and knowing that this involved views from this track are spectacular and you could take an eternity several river crossings as well as the steep descent, we chose to go to get to the trig point if you stopped at every opportunity to take the easy way along McMillans Road directly into Talbotville. in the views. The last climb up to the trig point was very rocky and On arrival at Talbotville, we were treated to the site of beautiful open loose, with an open rear diff this made for a bumpy ride over the grassed areas along the banks of the Crooked River. This would rocky steps as those with lockers will know – it’s either locked or it’s definitely be an ideal place to camp for a night or two. It appeared open – no LSD; and without a compressor, there are no locked diffs! that Parks Victoria put a fair bit of work into maintaining the site. The views from the trig point, in all directions, were to die for. The After lunch, we set off to return via the tracks following the Crooked weather was quite cool and windy. We spent a little time taking in and Wonnangatta Rivers. These tracks pass through some beautiful the view and some photos before we headed back to the Dargo countryside and necessitate several river crossings. All of the High Plains Road. A short distance later, we stopped at Mt Freezeout crossings had plenty of flow, however with one exception, were for lunch. This is designated as a camping spot, however it is really not that deep. One of the crossings had us in water, lapping up to only suitable for a couple of small tents, and is right on the road. bonnet height, for the last few metres of the crossing. This crossing After lunch, it was on to the black top and slowly down to Bright to was successfully negotiated without incident. We passed a couple air up and have the obligatory coffee before heading in to Albury of 4WD’s not long after. Both vehicles were stock standard without for the night. recovery equipment. After talking to their drivers, I would also Day 12 guess they didn’t have much experience behind the wheel. Despite my warnings about the river crossings, particularly the deeper one, We spent the day travelling along the Hume Highway towards they pushed on to head for Talbotville. You can’t help some people. home. It was an enjoyable day and an ideal day trip of around 90 km, made Overall, this was not the way the trip was intended to pan out. The all the more enjoyable by the ice creams in Dargo. trip was confirmed as a club trip at the last minute and was really as much a recce for a later trip, as it was a trip in its own right. It Day 11 was pretty well planned, but as often happens the plans go out We packed up our camp and headed for the Blue Rag Trig point via the window when circumstances intervene. First we had all the the Dargo High Plains. This is an easy drive with the road conditions rainfall in the area just prior to our departure, this led to several varying significantly when you pass from one local government track closures in the High Country that curtailed our travels, not to area to another. mention the crossing of the Murray River at Tom Groggin becoming impassable. Then there was the disintegration of the fan leading Along the way we had passed a number of motorcycle riders out to the damaged radiator necessitating a diversion of several days having a good time. About half way up to Blue Rag, we came across down to Bairnsdale for repairs. a group on the road where there were a number of motorcycles and their support vehicles. There had been a bad accident with All up however, it was an enjoyable trip and gave us a taste of the two riders suffering what appeared to be serious injuries. We were High Country that will ensure that we will go back again. asked if either of us was medically qualified, however we were of no John Malcolm

View from the Blue Rag Trig Point back along the track 54 TLCC NEWS OCTOBER 2011