C:\TEMP STORAGE\263-134_263-138\263-134_263-138_Supplemental Information.doc Created by Nick Fabino on 8 June 2012; Modified by Michael Grant on 8 June 2012 Page 1 of 4

Supplemental Information & Instructions for 263-134 Rack & Unit, RHD 263-138 Rack & Pinion Unit, LHD MG TD, TF 263-134 RHD

263-138 LHD

For many years, Moss supplied the components of the rack & pinion assembly, and that made it possible to restore an original rack to near-new condition. Sadly, those parts are no longer available. Moss has therefore developed two replacement rack & pinion units. They are made by a company in that makes rack & pinion systems for current production vehicles and classic . They already supply us with steering racks for the MGA & MGB, and we have been pleased with the quality.

The mounting points and critical dimensions duplicate the original, and the tie rods are threaded 9/16 BSF just like all TD & TF tie rod ends. However, none of the rack components are designed to be used to restore an original rack. These racks are therefore most accurately described as “replacements”. Although they are made for cars built in the ’50s, they have all the advantages of modern materials, manufacturing, and lubrication technology. They come from the factory with special grease that eliminates the oil used to lubricate the original racks. Like modern ball joints, they are “lubed for life”.

The rack unit does not include the distinctive 3-lobed steering , and so long as your original coupling has not been drilled out or otherwise modified, it can be transferred to the new rack. If the three rubber bushings in the coupling assembly are worn, or the original 5/16 BSF shoulder bolts have been replaced, we suggest that you purchase a 264-368 Coupling Kit. The instructions for that kit are included in this document for your reference. Even if your coupling appears to be in good shape, please review the information in the instructions. Proper assembly of the coupling is essential. We have also included some information prepared by our English division on installing the RHD assembly. Please refer to the factory workshop manual for instructions on removing and replacing the rack.

Hardware to secure rack: we now offer the original type/size bolts & nuts. Order 4 each; 320-380 Bolt, rack to frame, 311-140 Nut, 365-730 Lock Washer. The bolts & nuts are 5/16” BSF, as original. Tie Rod Ends: order 1 of our 262-278; it is a pair of tie rod ends. Replacement boots 263-010 or AAA1682. C:\TEMP STORAGE\263-134_263-138\263-134_263-138_Supplemental Information.doc Created by Nick Fabino on 8 June 2012; Modified by Michael Grant on 8 June 2012 Page 2 of 4

263-134 Supplemental Information Right Hand Drive Only (Prepared by the Technical staff in the UK)

Moss Motors, LTD.

Please note that the 3-lobed coupling flange (1a) will need to be installed on the pinion shaft (1b) after the rack has been installed. If

1c you install the coupling flange first, you will

not be able to get the pinion shaft through the stabilizer bracket (1c) shown here.

1b

1a

Although the T Series shop manual shows the steering rack being removed with the radiator installed, we find that interference with other engine and chassis components will make this very difficult. Removing the radiator and its mounting bracket will give the steering rack a larger range of motion which will make installation much easier.

C:\TEMP STORAGE\263-134_263-138\263-134_263-138_Supplemental Information.doc Created by Nick Fabino on 8 June 2012; Modified by Michael Grant on 8 June 2012 Page 3 of 4

Supplemental Information & Instructions for 264-368 Coupling Kit, Steering Shaft MG TD, TF

Contents of Kit Fig 1 Ref Item # Qty Description 1a 320-850 3 BOLT, shouldered, 5/16 BSF 1a 1b 324-560 3 WASHER, 7/16 ID, 15/16 OD 1c 280-550 6 BUSHING (aka Rubber Bearing) 1b 2b 311-150 3 NUT, self locking, 5/16 BSF (all metal) 1c replaces the original slotted nut (1e) Relationship of the Original Components The shoulder bolt (1a) goes through the washer (1b), the 1e 1d bushings (1c) and threads into the one of the three 5/16 BSF tapped holes in the flange (1d). The original castellated nut Fig 2 (1e) threads onto the bolt (1a), and a cotter pin (2a) is inserted through the slots in the nut and through the bolt. We supply an all-metal self-locking nut (2b) in this kit to replace the original slotted nut and cotter pin.

Are the holes threaded or not? The holes in the coupling flange (1d) were always threaded 2a 5/16 BSF. Please refer to the factory workshop manual Section J.3 -To take out the steering column, Paragraph 3: "Remove the split pins, take off the nuts and unscrew the three bolts (1a) at the ...... When 2b reassembling, note that the screws (1a) on the universal joint should be tightened fully up against their shoulders.” If the bolts were not installed correctly, or if they came loose, the threads on the bolt and in the flange would be damaged. When the original bolts could no longer be tightened in the coupling flange, they would be replaced with bolts obtained locally and the holes in the flange would be drilled out to suit the new bolts. This kind of “expedient repair” has caused lots of confusion.

Disassembly Follow the procedure in the factory workshop manual.

Carefully Inspect the Coupling Before Transferring it to the new Rack & Pinion Because so many of the original coupling flanges have been damaged or modified is some way, we strongly recommend that the coupling flange be carefully inspected. We also suggest that you purchase the 264-368 Coupling kit, because that kit has the proper shouldered bolts and all-metal self locking nuts.

Many people have been confused about the T-Series steering coupling because it is unusual in design and so many have been modified at some point in the past. We have prepared detailed instructions that explain what you need to do and why. C:\TEMP STORAGE\263-134_263-138\263-134_263-138_Supplemental Information.doc Created by Nick Fabino on 8 June 2012; Modified by Michael Grant on 8 June 2012 Page 4 of 4

Assembly Tips Fig 3 The shoulder bolt (3a) goes through the washer (3b), through the top bushing (3c), then the bolt & bushing are pressed into one of the three holes (3d) in the end of the upper steering 3a shaft. Press the second bushing (3e) onto the end of the shoulder bolt. The shoulder bolt then screws into the hole in 3b the flange (3f) until the shoulder bottoms out against the 3c flange. The bolt should be tightened to 20 lbs-ft. If the threads 3d in the flange had to be cleaned up with a tap, it would be a 3e good idea to put a drop of blue Loctite on the threads when you are ready to do the final assembly. If the threads are in good condition, this is not necessary. 3g 3f

The nut (3g, 4a) is there only to make sure the bolt (3a) does not back off and become loose. We are supplying an all-metal jam nut (4a) in this kit because it is much easier to 4a use than the original castellated nut and split pin, but we realize that some owners will prefer to use the original castellated nut for the sake of originality. If you decide to re-use the original nut, it is important to understand how it is to be fitted.

When the original castellated nut (311-145) was tightened, a split pin (325-410) was inserted through the slots in the nut and through the hole in the bolt, which effectively prevented the nut from coming loose. For this reason, the original bolt and our 320-850 are drilled for a 1/16” diameter split pin. In some cases, when the nut is tightened, the hole in the bolt will not line up with a slot in the nut. In other cases, the hole line up, but the hole points at the collar of the coupling and you can’t install the split pin. Some people have then backed off the nut to the nearest hole, inserted the split pin, and called it good.

THIS IS A SERIOUS MISTAKE. THE NUT MUST BE TIGHT BEFORE THE SPLIT PIN IS INSTALLED OR THE COUPLING ASSEMBLY MAY LOOSEN UP. THE THREADS IN THE FLANGE WILL BE DAMAGED BY THE BOLTS AS THEY WORK BACK AND FORTH. THE STEERING WILL BECOME INCREASINGLY “VAGUE” BECAUSE OF THE SIGNIFICANT FREE-PLAY IN THE STEERING SHAFT. THERE IS A VERY REAL RISK OF AN ACCIDENT WITH POTENTIAL FOR SERIOUS INJURY.

If the hole in the bolt does not line up with a slot in the nut, you must remove the nut and place it on a piece of sand paper on a hard flat surface (like a piece of plate glass) and sand the bottom of the nut just enough for the slot in the nut to line up with the hole in the bolt. This procedure for achieving a proper fit is tedious and requires some patience.

Now you see why we supply a 5/16 BSF self locking nut (also known as a “stiff nut”) in this kit, and have for years. Although not strictly original, the substitution of a self locking nut in this application makes sense because it avoids the necessity of modifying the castellated nut for a precise fit, something most people do not know how to do. When the shoulder bolt is properly threaded into a flange of the correct thickness (about 0.175”), and torqued to 20 lbs-ft, there will be enough threads exposed on the back side to properly engage the locking portion of the threads on the nut we supply.

Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and clarity of this information, any suggestions that you may have that will improve the information (especially detailed installation notes) are welcome. Please use the simple email form on the “Contact Us” page on the Moss website: http://www.mossmotors.com/AboutMoss/ContactUs.aspx If you prefer, you may call our Technical Services Department at 805-681-3411. So many people call us for help that we are often not able to answer the calls as fast as we’d like, and you may be asked to leave a message. We apologize in advance for the inconvenience. We will get back to you within 2 business days.

Moss Motors, Ltd. 440 Rutherford Street, Goleta, California 93117 In the US & Canada Toll Free (800) 667-7872 FAX (805) 692-2510 (805) 681-3400 Moss Europe Ltd. Hampton Farm Industrial Estate, Hampton Road West, Hanworth Middlesex, TW13 6DB In the UK: 020-8867-2020 FAX:- 020-8867-2030 Instruction Sheet 263-134_263-138 June 2012