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Namibia, Botswana & Zambia NAMIBIA, BOTSWANA & ZAMBIA AUGUST 24–SEPTEMBER 10, 2019 Rock Pratincole © Geoff Lockwood LEADER: GEOFF LOCKWOOD LIST COMPILED BY: GEOFF LOCKWOOD VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM TOUR CONDITIONS Conditions throughout this year’s tour reflected the generally poor rainfall in the region during the past summer. Huab Lodge—our first stop on the tour—had recorded only16mm, this being less than 10% of the average rainfall they record, and the area was looking very bleak and devoid of grass cover. This in turn led to a dearth of seedeaters throughout the tour, with even usually common and widespread species proving difficult to find. Insectivorous birds were also thin on the ground, and the arrival of many of the inter-African migrants seemed to have been delayed. Conversely, the limited water flowing in the Okavango Delta had caused game to concentrate around the remaining water—making it easier for predators, and we had one of our best years ever for Leopard and Wild Dog sightings at Xakanaxa in Moremi. The unusually dry conditions also resulted in several unusual or unexpected bird species being recorded, and we had the best tour ever for Burchell’s Coursers and Ludwig’s Bustards—both regional endemics and both adapted to more arid conditions. We also recorded a single Temminck’s Courser after a gap of several years. The drought had also significantly impacted water levels in the Zambezi River, and virtually the entire section of the Victoria Falls accessible from the Zambian side was bare rock, with only the odd trickles of water visible. I have never seen the river so low, and the usually mighty spectacle of Mosi oa Tunya—‘The Smoke that Thunders’—was a sad sight this year. Fortunately, however, our boat trip above the Falls delivered the usual wonderful sightings of a range of new birds—this in spite of the strong and very chilly wind that was blowing. The afternoon game drive in the Mosi oa Tunya National Park also brought sightings of a number of birds that had managed to elude us during the earlier parts of the tour. ITINERARY Main Tour Aug 25 Flight to Walvis Bay; charter flight to Huab Lodge, drive upstream in the dry river bed of the Huab River. Aug 26 Drive into the mountains on the road out (am); drive upstream in the Huab River bed (pm). Aug 27 Early morning drive downstream (am); again in the afternoon. Aug 28 Drive from Huab to the Galton Gate, western Etosha; drive through the Park to Okaukeujo Camp; night at floodlit waterhole at Okaukeujo. Aug 29 Drive to Okondeka, returning via Leeubron (am); drive to Gemsbokvlakte via Newbrowni waterhole, night at floodlit waterhole (pm). Aug 30 Drive from Okaukuejo to Halali via Newbrowni, Salavadora and Rietfontein; lunch at Halali then visit to Goas waterhole. Night at floodlit waterhole in Halali. Aug 31 Drive to Namutoni via Goas, Batia and Kalkheuwel, lunch at Namutoni (am); drive to Koinachas, Chudop and Klein Namutoni waterholes and around Dikdik Drive. Sept 01 Namutoni to Andoni via Twee Palms, Klein and Groot Okeivi, Tsumcor; drive out of the park to an artesian spring 10 km N of the King Nehale Gate (am); walk around camp, Dikdik Drive and a night drive (pm). Sept 02 Drive to Mokuti Lodge; flight to Bagani and drive through the Mahango Game Reserve to the border; drive/boat trip to Nxamaseri Lodge. Sept 03 Boat trip down river, walk on the island (am); Mekoro (dugout canoe) trip to search for Pel’s Fishing- Owl. Sept 04 Trip to the Tsodilo Hills World Heritage Site via the Nxamaseri floodplains. Sept 05 Early morning boat trip on the river; flight to Xakanaxa (am); game drive to Paradise Island (pm). Sept 06 Morning game drive, walk around camp (am); afternoon game drive at Xakanaxa. Sept 07 Morning game drive, flight to Kasane and on to Livingstone; walk to the Victoria Falls. Sept 08 Early boat trip on the Zambezi River above the Falls (am); afternoon game drive in the Mosi oa Tunya National Park. Sept 09 Early walk to the Falls; flight to Johannesburg and onward flights home. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Namibia, Botswana & Zambia, 2019 TOUR SUMMARY Huab Lodge, our first stop on this tour, gave an early indication of the tough conditions that we would face throughout the tour. Where last year there had been a golden sea of dry annual grasses now was simply only sand, broken here and there by the odd drought-hardy weeds. Birds were understandably thin on the ground, but in spite of the conditions we managed to obtain good views of all but one of the “Damaraland Specials” that we look for at Huab. Monteiro’s and Damara Red-billed hornbills; Rüppell’s Parrot; Rosy-faced Lovebird; Violet Wood-Hoopoe; Bare- cheeked Babbler; Carp’s Tit; White-tailed Shrike; and Short-toed Rock-Thrush were added during our drives around the conservancy, along with great views of African Hawk-Eagle, a perched Crimson-breasted Gonolek, and also a very confiding Pearl-breasted Swallow. For the first time in many years, we were able to drive downstream from the lodge, and the slightly wetter conditions gave us our best sightings of Rockrunner in many years—with great scope views of two pairs displaying and singing to each other. It also gave great looks at a well-feathered nestling Verreaux’s Eagle—with a flock of 11 colorful Rosy-faced Lovebirds disappearing into the nest structure beneath the eaglet. Back at the lodge, a pair of Freckled Nightjars hawked insects from in front of the dining area—giving superb, ultra-close views in the evenings. Carp’s Tit © Geoff Lockwood Rockrunner © Geoff Lockwood Mammals were generally scarce, but we had good sightings of Klipspringer, Black Mongoose, and also Dassie Rat—an endemic squirrel-like rodent that we have not recorded for several years. Freckled Nightjar © Geoff Lockwood Klipspringer © Geoff Lockwood Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Namibia, Botswana & Zambia, 2019 Our driver, Steve, suggested that we enter the Etosha National Park via the Galton Gate in the extreme west of the reserve, as this would give us more time in the reserve and also give us further chances to pick up some of the species we had missed at Huab. The decision paid off in the form of several sightings of Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra en route, as well as our first sightings of Burchell’s Sandgrouse and Southern Pied Babblers of the tour. Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra © Geoff Lockwood Southern Pied Babbler © Geoff Lockwood Closer to Okaukuejo we came across a young Ratel (or Honey Badger) industriously digging for rodents. Just when we were sure that he had caught something, there was a flash of ginger-colored fur…and the luckiest Short-tailed Gerbil in Etosha made a dash for safety! Nearing camp, we had our first glimpse of a Double-banded Courser on the tour. Ratel (Honey Badger) © Geoff Lockwood Double -banded Courser © Geoff Lockwood After dinner we headed for the magic that is typical of the floodlit waterhole on the edge of camp. Several giraffe were watching cautiously from a distance as a female Black Rhinoceros and her well-grown calf slowly made their way to water. After a long drink they moved off to the side, where the calf lay down so that it could suckle. More rhinos arrived, including another female with a calf, and at one point there were seven different animals around the water. Watching as these supposedly solitary animals greeted each other—standing for long periods touching nose to nose, showed a softer side to these notoriously irritable animals. Two elephants then appeared—driving the rhinos away from where fresh water was feeding into the waterhole. When they finally moved off, the first giraffe nervously approached the water…and a tired but happy group headed for bed. Early the next morning we headed out towards Okondeka—a contact spring on the western edge of the Etosha pan. On most tours this drive is usually characterized by flocks of different larks flying up from the edges of the road, but this time it was almost devoid of birdlife. Things began to improve as we got closer to Okondeka, and we Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Namibia, Botswana & Zambia, 2019 started seeing a few Pink-billed Larks plus several Namaqua Sandgrouse. We also saw at least eight Ludwig’s Bustard on the drive—our best tour ever for this species! Heading back via Leeubron, a Kalahari Scrub-Robin perched up next to the vehicle. Pink -billed Lark © Geoff Lockwood Ludwig’s Bustard male © Geoff Lockwood Namaqua Sandgrouse male © Geoff Lockwood Kalahari Scrub -Robin © Geoff Lockwood The waterhole next to camp was quieter than on the previous evening, but we did have a Spotted Hyeana coming in to drink before sloping off into the dark, and a few rhinos also appeared, but cool windy conditions meant less game came to water. A walk around camp the next morning added a number of new birds to the list. Highlights were great, ultra-close views of a pair of Ashy Tits foraging busily above our heads and our first Mariqua Sunbird of the tour. A stunning male Great Rufous Sparrow perched confidingly next to the group—giving great views, while a Pied Babbler sat preening in the heart of a small shrub and a pair of Crimson-breasted Gonoleks hopped around on the ground below. A Pearl-spotted Owlet sat expectantly next to a Sociable Weaver nest, hoping to catch one of the weavers as they emerged.
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