India - Tiger Marathon

including Ranthambore Extension Naturetrek Tour Report 21 January – 6 February 2016

Report & images compiled by Pradeep Singh

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

Tour Participants: Pradeep Singh (leader) with seven Naturetrek clients

Day 1 Thursday 21st January

The tour started with an overnight flight from London Heathrow to Mumbai, India

Day 2 Friday 22nd January

We landed at Mumbai and then caught an onward flight to Nagpur, arriving in the afternoon. We were then driven to the railway station where we met our leader, Pradeep, who had arrived by train. Next we drove to Pench National Park, arriving around 8pm. We checked in and then had dinner before retiring for the night

Day 3 Saturday 23rd January

Pench National Park We met at 5.45am for tea and coffee and then drove to the park. Once in the park we found Tiger footprints, and sightings included Sambar and Spotted Deer, Golden Jackal, Common Teal, Northern Pintail, Osprey and Intermediate Egret. We had our breakfast whilst in the park, and at the end of the visit returned to the lodge.

Whilst having lunch we saw Ashy Prinia and Common Tailorbird from the restaurant. Later we returned to the park for our afternoon drive. This time sightings included Taiga Flycatcher, Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, Rufous Treepie, Indian Scops Owl, Ruddy Shelduck and Gaur. After the drive we returned to our accommodation and later did our checklist before dinner.

Day 4 Sunday 24th January

Pench to Kanha National Park Today on our morning drive in the park we saw the fresh footprints of a leopard dragging a kill. Although we heard alarm calls we didn’t spot the animal. We did see Green Sandpiper, Ruddy Shelduck, Pied, Common and White-throated Kingfishers, Blue Rock Thrush, and White and White-browed Wagtails.

Back at the lodge we packed our bags before lunch, and afterwards drove to Kanha National Park. We arrived around 5pm and later met around the bonfire for drinks before doing our checklist and having dinner.

Day 5 Monday 25th January

Kanha National Park On our morning drive in the park we enjoyed many sightings, which were mainly more of what we had already seen. After the drive we returned to our accommodation, meeting later for lunch.

In the afternoon we had another drive in the park. Whilst we heard some alarm calls and saw footprints, we had to be content with more bird sightings.

India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

In the evening we met for dinner and did our checklist before retiring to bed.

Day 6 Tuesday 26th January

Kanha National Park Today started with an early morning drive in the park. Again we heard alarm calls and spotted lots of the commoner birds and mammals. After the drive we returned to the lodge for lunch.

During our afternoon drive we were very unlucky as we missed seeing a Tiger by moments. As we entered, some monkey alarm calls were heard. We were in two jeeps and people in the back one stopped when a Jungle Cat was spotted. Once the jeeps were together again, Pradeep received a phone call from another guide advising him of a Tiger sighting. We rushed to the spot but by the time we had arrived, the Tigress had gone into the long grass and was lost from sight. We waited for some time but she didn't come out. We had missed her by moments. We did, however, see some interesting birds including Orange-headed Thrush and Jungle Owlet.

Back at the lodge we did the checklist outside our rooms as it was Republic Day (a dry day). Later we had dinner.

Day 7 Wednesday 27th January

Kanha to Bandhavgarh National Park We were moving on today but had time for a morning drive before leaving. We awoke at the same time and went to the park for our last drive at Kanha. We heard the roar of a Tiger and went back and forth hearing alarm calls from other wildlife but the Tiger didn’t show itself.

After the drive we returned to the lodge and had an early lunch before leaving for Bandhavgarh at 1pm. On the way we had snacks and made a comfort stop. We also spotted Flying Foxes, Green Bee-eater and Grey Hornbill. It was a good, smooth ride and we reached Bandhavgarh around 6pm. After checking in we had dinner and did our checklist.

Day 8 Thursday 28th January

Bandhavgarh National Park The Tala zone was today’s destination for our morning ride in the park. Sightings included Red-headed and Griffon Vultures, Tickell's Blue Flycatcher, Jungle Babbler, parakeets, Black Redstart, Rhesus Macaque and Barking Deer. Whilst driving around we found fresh footprints so we followed them. We could also hear some alarm calls. We went to the place where a female Tiger with a cub had killed a Wild Boar yesterday morning. We waited. After some time we were rewarded when a different female came into view and finally we all managed to see a Royal Bengal Tiger! We had breakfast in the park and then returned to our lodge with happy faces.

While waiting for lunch we heard alarm calls so we went outside and were amazed to discover that a Leopard had been at the lodge! After lunch we had an afternoon safari in the park. We again heard alarm calls and saw footprints, but we weren’t lucky with a Tiger sighting this time.

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India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

After dinner we were taken by Pradeep to the wedding of his friend’s cousin. Everybody had good fun and an enjoyable time.

Day 9 Friday 29th January

Bandhavgarh National Park On today’s morning ride, the park was quiet. We didn’t hear any alarm calls but we did find some fresh footprints in one place. We saw a number of birds including Scaly Thrush, Lesser Adjutant and Tickell's Blue Thrush.

After lunch we went back into the park. We drove round all the best places for sightings but it remained quiet. We did find some very good fresh footprints which we followed for a while, but we couldn’t find the maker. Bird sightings included Sirkeer Malkoha, Griffon Vulture and other common birds.

Once back at the lodge we did the checklist and then had dinner.

Day 10 Saturday 30th January

Bandhavgarh to Panna National Park We had a last morning drive in the park before moving on again. Once back at the lodge we had lunch and then departed for Panna. En route we spotted Cinereous, Long-billed, Griffon, Egyptian and Red-headed Vultures, and Crested Bunting. We arrived at our five star hotel Lalit around 6.30pm, checked in and later had dinner.

Day 11 Sunday 31st January

Panna National Park Today the park didn’t open till 8am because a Tiger census was taking place. Once in the park we found some people tracking a Tigress wearing a collar, but she was sitting down and didn’t came out into view. We again saw all the vulture species together with Blue Bull, Sambar and Spotted Deer.

We returned to the lodge for lunch before departing on an afternoon safari drive. We had a good drive with lots of very good alarm calls and, frustratingly, a very close Leopard which our park guide saw but we missed.

In the evening we did our checklist and had dinner.

Day 12 Monday 1st February

Panna to Delhi We had the morning at leisure and went sightseeing, visiting a temple which was very interesting.

After lunch we went to the airport and caught a flight to Delhi. Once at Delhi we said goodbye to Lucy as she was flying home in the morning to end the main tour, whilst the remainder were continuing to Ranthambore on the tour extension.

India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

Day 13 (Main Tour Day 1 extension) Tuesday 2nd February

Delhi to Ranthambore Today Lucy flew home to end the main tour, whilst the rest of the group left Delhi at 7.30am by train towards Ranthambore.

We had lunch at Ranthambore and later went on a walk and spotted Southern Grey Shrike, Common Babbler, Large Grey Babbler, Redshank, Greenshank, Wire-tailed Swallow, Plain Martin and Black-winged Stilt.

In the evening we did the checklist and had dinner.

Extension Day 2 Wednesday 3rd February

Ranthambore National Park Today we enjoyed two jeep safaris in Ranthambore National Park. Because of the way it is organised here, our group was split between two jeeps and the allocation of zones is out of our control. On the morning ride group members in one jeep saw two Tigers, whilst people in the other jeep went to zone 6 and missed a male cub dragging a kill by two minutes. They were rewarded later when, after hearing alarm calls, a male Tiger was spotted in bushes. Also seen were Southern Grey Shrike, Grey Francolin and White-eyed Buzzard. We all returned to the hotel for breakfast, and later lunch.

During our afternoon safari, lots of animals were seen. One jeep was allocated to zone 2 and they saw a beautiful female sub adult Tiger cub and they saw her running after deer. People in the other jeep weren’t as fortunate. It had been a good day for Tiger sightings.

Extension Day 3 Thursday 4th February

Ranthambore National Park Morning and afternoon jeep safaris were the order of the day again. In the morning our two jeeps were allocated zone 2 and zone 4. Group members in both vehicles saw a Tiger, one being on the top of the plateau. Bird sightings included Black-winged Stilt, Wood, Common and Green Sandpipers, Greenshank, Redshank, Great, Intermediate, and Little Egrets, Indian Spotted Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle with a snake kill, and Booted Eagle.

After lunch we returned to the park for our afternoon safari. People in zone 3 jeep saw two Tiger cubs, whilst people in zone 2 jeep saw a Tiger outside the park which crossed the road and went towards the fort.

It had been another excellent day for Tiger sightings, and in the evening we did our checklist, had dinner and then headed for bed.

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India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

Extension Day 4 Friday 5th February

Ranthambore to Delhi We had one last safari drive in the park before we had to return to Delhi. This morning our jeeps were allocated to zone 2 and zone 5. Group members in the zone 5 jeep really hit the jackpot as they enjoyed an amazingly great sighting of two males and a female Tiger. They also witnessed the pair mating. It was a great sighting for those in one vehicle, and an unfortunate miss for people in the other; but they are wild animals.

After breakfast we did our packing and left the hotel for the train station. We said goodbye to Anne, Caroline and Christine at Bharatpur Station as they were continuing their adventure. The rest of the group caught the train to Delhi. Once at our hotel we said our thanks and goodbyes to Pradeep.

Extension Day 5 Saturday 6th February

Delhi to Heathrow Airport We were taken to the airport and caught a flight back to the UK, where another Naturetrek adventure came to an end.

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India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

Species Lists

Birds (= recorded but not counted; h = heard only) January / February Main Tour Extension Common name Scientific name 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 2 3 4 5 1 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis       2 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo     3 Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger         4 Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster       5 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea    6 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea  7 Great Egret Ardea alba   8 Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia     9 Little Egret Egretta garzetta       10 Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii              11 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis           12 Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala    13 Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans   14 Black Stork Ciconia nigra     15 Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus     16 Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus    17 Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus   18 Red-naped Ibis Pseudibis papillosa     19 Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica    20 Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus   21 Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea     22 Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope  23 Gadwall Anas strepera  24 Common Teal Anas crecca      25 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos  26 Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha   27 Northern Pintail Anas acuta   

India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

January / February Main Tour Extension Common name Scientific name 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 2 3 4 5 28 Osprey Pandion haliaetus   29 Crested Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus     30 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus           31 Black Kite Milvus migrans    32 Grey-headed Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus   33 Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus    34 White-rumped Vulture Gyps bengalensis   35 Indian Vulture Gyps indicus         36 Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus     37 Cinereous Vulture Aegypius monachus  38 Red-headed Vulture Sarcogyps calvus    39 Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela            40 Shikra Accipiter badius     41 White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa    42 Indian Spotted Eagle Aquila hastata  43 Booted Eagle Aquila pennatus  44 Crested Hawk Eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus   45 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus  46 Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus h   47 Red Spurfowl Galloperdix spadicea      48 Painted Spurfowl Galloperdix lunulata     49 Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus      50 Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus             51 White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus    52 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus   53 Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus   54 Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus  55 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus    56 Indian Stone-curlew Burhinus indicus  57 Great Stone-curlew Esacus recurvirostris  

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India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

January / February Main Tour Extension Common name Scientific name 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 2 3 4 5 58 Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus    59 Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus              60 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius   61 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago  62 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa  63 Common Redshank Tringa totanus   64 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia    65 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus      66 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola   67 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos    68 Little Stint Calidris minuta  69 Ruff Philomachus pugnax  70 River Tern Sterna aurantia     71 Painted Sandgrouse Pterocles indicus  72 Rock Dove Columba livia   73 Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis    74 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto    75 Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis          76 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis  77 Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera         78 Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria            79 Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri              80 Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala              81 Common Hawk-Cuckoo Cuculus varius h 82 Sirkeer Malkoha Phaenicophaeus leschenaultii  83 Southern Coucal Centropus {sinensis } parroti  h      84 Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena    85 Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis   86 Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum     87 Spotted Owlet Athene brama   

India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

January / February Main Tour Extension Common name Scientific name 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 2 3 4 5 88 Little Swift Apus affinis    89 Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata h  90 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis      91 White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis             92 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis     93 Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis          94 Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis            95 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops        96 Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris        97 Malabar Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros coronatus h 98 Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica  h h h  99 Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala  100 Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis  101 Rufous Woodpecker Celeus brachyurus  102 Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus  103 Lesser Goldenback Dinopium benghalense     104 White-naped Woodpecker Chrysocolaptes festivus      105 Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix grisea  106 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica    107 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii   108 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica       109 White Wagtail Motacilla alba   110 White-browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis      111 Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola  112 Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava   113 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea   114 Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus    115 Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei  116 Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus  117 Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus 

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India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

January / February Main Tour Extension Common name Scientific name 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 2 3 4 5 118 Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer              119 Common Iora Aegithina tiphia  120 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius   121 Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina  122 Scaly Thrush Zoothera dauma  123 Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii   124 Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica  125 Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis   126 Plain Prinia Prinia inornata   127 Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius    128 Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides  129 Taiga Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla   130 Ultramarine Flycatcher Ficedula superciliaris  131 Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina  132 Tickell's Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae   133 Bluethroat Luscinia svecica  134 Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis             135 Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata     136 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros         137 Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata  138 Indian Chat Cercomela fusca     139 White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola  140 Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea   141 Indian Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus horsfieldii  142 Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus  143 Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi    144 Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus              145 Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poioicephala  146 Great Tit Parus major      147 Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus     

India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

January / February Main Tour Extension Common name Scientific name 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 2 3 4 5 148 Oriental White-Eye Zosterops palpebrosus h  149 Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus      150 Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus  151 Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach        152 Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis   153 Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus              154 Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus  155 White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens     156 Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus   h  157 Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda           158 House Crow Corvus splendens  159 Indian Jungle Crow Corvus culminatus              160 Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus     161 Common Myna Acridotheres tristis              162 Brahminy Starling Temenuchus pagodarum  163 House Sparrow Passer domesticus      164 Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Petronia xanthocollis    165 Nutmeg Mannikin Lonchura punctulata  166 Indian Silverbill Euodice malabarica  167 Crested Bunting Melophus lathami 

Mammals

1 Royal Bengal Tiger Panthera tigris tigris    2 Jungle Cat Felis chaus kelaarita or kutas   3 Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta          4 Common Langur Presbytis entellus           5 Common Mangoose Herpestes edwardsi  6 Indian Small Mongoose Herpestes auropunctatus  7 Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii    8 Golden Jackal Canis aureus           

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India - Tiger Marathon Tour Report

January / February Main Tour Extension Common name Scientific name 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 2 3 4 5 9 Sloth Bear Merursus ursinus  10 Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus   11 Indian Tree Shrew Anathana ellioti  12 Indian or Black-naped Hare Lepus nigricollis  13 Three-striped Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennarum     14 Five-striped Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennanti        15 Sambar Cervus unicolor             16 Barasingha (Swamp Deer) Cervus duvauceli branderi    17 Chital (Spotted Deer) Cervus axis             18 Indian Muntjac (Barking Deer) Muntiacus muntjak h    19 Black Buck Antilope cervicapra  20 Khincara (Indian Gazelle) Gazella bennetti  21 Nilgai (Blue Bull) Boselaphus tragocamelus      22 Wild Boar Sus scrofa            23 Indian Gaur Bos gaurus       24 Caracal Caracal caracal 

Other fauna

1 Indian Flapshell Turtle Lissemys punctata    2 Unnamed Lizard Varanus griseus koniecznyi  3 Marsh Mugger Crocodile Crocodylus palustris    4 House Gecko sp. Hemidactylus or Gehyra sp.    5 Horseshoe bat sp. 