#600 13 - 19 April 2012 16+4 pages Rs 30

LIGHTS CAMERA ACTION! PM Dr. Baburam Bhattarai addressing the nation live on television saying that the peace process and constitution writing process is on track.

BIKRAM RAI

BY THE WAY by Anurag Acharya KARNALI FOCUS In ’s outback, federalism page 11, 12, 13 holds the promise of making the government more accessible and HERE I AM accountable. have brought you thus far, is the message from Not much of the $20 million Prime Minister Baburam Bhattarai in his address the government spent on AIDS Ito the nation on Thursday evening as he marked prevention and treatment finds its the emptying of Maoist camps. The move paves the way to Dailekh, by Naresh Newar. way for integrating some of the ex-guerrillas into the Nepal Army, and finalising the constitution in the It’s that time of the month in month that is left. Leaders have to find a way around Achham where the tradition to two contentious issues: federalism and type of banish women to outhouses during government. Maoist chairman , menstruation dies hard, keen to claim credit for progress so far, summoned by Rubeena D Shrestha. editors on Wednesday to say the door was now open for a directly-elected presidential system. Contending with a tormented past, Kalikot works to reinvent itself. s a retrospective, Nepali Times brings a selection of opinion columns from the past 600 weekly editions of the paper since May 2000 during which the Acountry went from constitutional to absolute monarchy, suffered a war and a royal-military coup, saw a ceasefire, an interim government, the election of Maoists to power and the peace process. To read more, readers have free access to the full Nepali 600 Times archive on www.nepalitimes.com

he post-1990 political decay in this with ruthless cruelty and snatched away from the Tcountry led to widespread disillusionment people the civil liberties they secured in 1990. with democracy. Frustrated with patronage, THE WRITING ON THE WALL And who benefi ts from this mad war? A few corruption and rigged elections, the ultra left arms merchants and their clients in , Editorial in Nepali Times #208 of 6-12 August 2004 as king Gyanendra started his “creeping coup” turned to armed struggle as the way out. The to take the country back to absolute monarchy and after the results of the Himalmedia poll showed plus a handful of hardline comrades spellbound ultra right, still smarting from the loss of its nearly 25 per cent of respondents favouring the Maoists if they stood in elections. by a discredited ideology. But the conflict does absolute power, tried to capitalise on the mass provide an opportunity for us to reform the cynicism as a way to regain lost authority. The democratic values and a tolerant, pluralistic culture anyone who wishes to trade, invest or do business structural problems in this society: the top-heavy people were not given the right to choose the has been the rule of law. It is now a free-for-all. in this country has to now buy protection from. military-monarchy combine, genuine devolution, middle way. Every individual, every group, every party is for There is little room anymore for values that benefi t redistribution of opportunity and restoring the So, the October Fourth process decapitated itself. A minister who tries to control corruption in the nation and society: like transparency, honesty, people’s right to electoral representation. national level parties, while the Maoists the labour export industry is hounded from all sides. integrity and corporate social responsibility. The people want the middle way. There is a tore down an emerging culture of electoral The old mafi a has been replaced by a new mafi a. Eight-and-a-half years, and this is what the lesson in this week’s internet poll for the Maoists: accountability at the grassroots. Together, the In the absence of democratic checks-and-balances, Maoist war has done to this country. It has created at press time, nearly a quarter of the respondents left and right have taken this country back to a new generation of well-connected individuals has the conditions for a return to absolute monarchy, were saying they would vote for the CPN-(Maoist) medieval Robin Hoodland. its hands deep inside the honey pot. Besides the militarised the kingdom to a level not seen since the party if it renounced violence and took part in The first casualty of this erosion of Maoist tax, there is this new layer of patronage that Anglo-Nepal wars 200 years ago, brutalised society elections. What are you waiting for, comrades?

The Kathmandu spring CENSORED This State of the State column by CK Lal was censored from the 11-17 February Page 2-3 of the Nepali Times #234 2005 edition of Nepali Times #234 after the Feburary First coup by king of 11-18 Feburary 2005 after the Gyanendra. It is finally printed below for the first time. military imposed direct censorship ow that political stability is set to return, many journalists fear on the media. Soldiers entered Nthat they could be redundant. No shenanigans of party-chiefs to the newsroom and would expunge report, no significant political affair to analyse, no perceptible trend content deemed objectionable before the paper went to press. A to spot, no movement on the horizon to predict, and no ideological cartoon that was taken out from the drift to pontificate about, no more parachutists to brief, nothing but op-ed showed a tear drop below official communiqués and florid ministerial speeches to transcribe. the rainbow eyes of the Buddha. Since peace has begun to reign inside the Ring Road, life is so CK Lal’s State of the State column normal that even a man biting a dog doesn’t make news anymore. was censored in its entirety, and the The consternation of reporters and editors is understandable. editors replaced it with the picture Due to rationed news and censured views in the public domain, of a ten-day old baby who was it’s no longer necessary for us to whack our brains with the lessons born at the exact moment of king of the past, put them in perspective with experiences of the present Gyanendra's coup on 1 February and then risk being proved wrong by trying to predict the future. It’s 2001. Even a letter to the editor much safer to navel-gaze and shoot off another column befitting the was taken out. ground reality. Outside the valley, newspapers have been asked to keep mum for a while so that their freedom can be protected. And some human rights activists and journalists have been taken into preventive custody to protect their life and liberty. All the news that is fit to print In the capital, journalists are enjoying unprecedented levels of In his Under My Hat column, Kunda Dixit satirised the clampdown on the press and the freedom of expression. Cartoonists have the liberty to lampoon any column itself was censored in the #234 edition of Nepali Times of 11-17 February 2005. party leader of their choice. There is no restriction on lambasting the misdeeds of Girija Prasad Koirala, ridiculing the stupidity of tatutory Notice: An offi cial Fact- Leaders Irked by Continued Freedom Sher Bahadur Deuba or satirising the insatiable greed of Madhab fi nding Committee has pre-tested Political leaders and activists who have not Kumar Nepal. The less said about the excesses of their acolytes in the Sthis column on lab animals and been taken into custody have complained press the better. Many opinion- certifi ed that it contains permitted synthetic that they are still free to roam around the writers, like this scribe here, dyes and preservatives and has declared streets. have already started exercising it fi t for human consumption provided the “It’s been a week and they have still these unfettered freedoms. childproof seal is not broken at the time of not put me under preventive detention,” Freedom of civil society to purchase. However, one can’t be too careful complained a leader during these perilous times so readers are welcome royal proclamations on condition of anonymity, “This is advised to exercise individual caution on discrimination, what do I have to do, burn knows no bounds. People a case-by-case basis. Management is not some more tyres?” are free to stage flag-waving responsible for the consequences, especially A multi-partisan group calling itself the motorcycle rallies in defiance of if perpetrators are apprehended perusing All-Nepal Federation of Unjustly Undetained a ban on demos, take out peace this in broad daylight, charged with indecent Politicians threatened to launch a decisive marches and shout slogans exposure, and sentenced to 36 lashes with a nationwide stir if their demand to be arrested against corrupt leaders. Surely, wet rattan cane on each hind cheek. without further ado is not implemented with no peace-loving citizen in an Now that we have those legal niceties immediate effect by the concerned higher-up insurgency-torn kingdom could out of the way, we can get down to what authority. ask for anything more. you have all been impatiently waiting for The statement said: “If they don’t put us Businessmen, wilful defaulters, wheeler dealers and movers with barely-concealed boredom, which is a under house arrest, then we’ll go into cardiac roundup of this week’s main events. and shakers have discovered that they have full freedom to place arrest.” colourful ads in daily newspapers welcoming February First. This has a multiplier effect: it infuses cash into hardup media houses that haven’t paid salaries to staff for months. The guardians of the national interest are now free to scoff at the international community who have been mindlessly voicing concerns for peace, democracy, and human rights in clear violation of our sovereign right to do ATTACKED whatever we want. he offi ce of Himalmedia was attacked and vandalised by Maoists Plato said the human soul is a chariot pulled by the two horses Ton 23 December 2008 in retaliation against a cover story in of reason and emotion. Reason demands that we learn to live in the Himal Khabarpatrika, the sister publication of Nepali Times, about present. Emotion dictates that we take the help of music to endure the Maoist militant union extorting and attacking businesses. Among the unendurable. Perhaps that’s the reason local FM stations have those who visited the Himalmedia offi ce in Hattiban to express been told: “No news, no views, no analyses, no discussions, only solidarity was UNMIN chief, Ian Martin (left). music.” Thank god for these small mercies.

Publisher and Editor: Kunda Dixit Published by Himalmedia Pvt Ltd | Chief Operating Offi cer: Sunim Tamang | Hattiban, Godavari Road, Lalitpur | GPO Box 7251 Kathmandu | Desk Editor: Trishna Rana | Design: Kiran Maharjan [email protected] | www.nepalitimes.com | www.himalmedia.com | Tel: 01-5250333/845 Fax: +977-1-5251013 Marketing: Arjun Karki, Surendra Sharma [email protected] | Advertorial/features: Ram Krishna Banjara | Subscription: Santosh Aryal [email protected] Nepali Times on Facebook Printed at Jagadamba Press | 01-5250017-19 | www.jagadambapr.com Follow @nepalitimes on Twitter SUBHAS RAI #161 NEPALI TIMES Bandhonomics Underbelly of the beast Artha Beed's Economic Sense column from Nepali times #90 of 19-25 April 2002 about the epidemic of bandas. Kanak Mani Dixit writing from detention in Duwakot after the royal regime arrested him and other human rights activists in edition #294 of Nepali Times 14-20 April 2006. n Nepal as in other South Asian countries, all parties that have Icome to power, or even remained in opposition, have used bandhs DUWAKOT-Taken in by Kathmandu’s royal regime with two dozen effectively and institutionalised it with the necessary ingredients other protesters last week for willfully (and with prior announcement) of violence, coercion and fear. This is why even a banda called by breaking the curfew order, this writer had an opportunity to see how a ‘militarising’ autocratic state machinery can ride rough-shod over some an otherwise obscure association or group of people is scary and so of the weakest members of society. It was an opportunity to take a look vehicles remain off the roads, shutters are down and all institutions at the underbelly of the monster that the government can be. What we are closed. have seen during our incarceration is something that the privileged with Many keen observers of our glorious way of life insist that bandhs contacts in high places or money to buy oneself safe passage rarely care are so successful in Nepal because they fit in perfectly with a core to see or understand. characteristic of the Nepali psyche-evading work. Although methinks Four kids were resting inside a bus at a bus stop where they work as this is an overly cynical, possibly even defeatist position to take, it cleaners when they were dragged out: Dhruba Timilsina, 17, of Hetuada, is true that bandhs are often openly discussed in terms of being a Buddha Lama, 16, of Sindhupalchok, Ramesh Thapa Magar,17 and windfall break, especially for people in government, when one signs Ram Lama, 20, of Chapagaon. They have all been moved elsewhere. the attendance register, to be sure, but follows that by simply sitting Individuals who are in the lowest class bracket in detention get the toilet back for a fun-filled day with exciting card games, endless cups of tea, that is furthest and the rice that is the worst. It will be important for the ICRC to determine their fate and whereabouts. naps and a few discreet moments of personal grooming. On a bandh, even government civil servants, what an ironic description, at the highest level make no attempt to either work themselves or make sure that others do too. One year itch The late Saubhagya Shah wrote a regular Guest Column, and this one is an excerpt from the #41 edition of Nepali could all live together happily ever after. Duty in distress Times 23-29 March 2007. Alas, except for just the small matter of the South that had been forgotten during Column by Hari Roka in the aftermath of the royal massacre in the here must be something in our national the celebrations. The sudden violence 6 June 2001 edition of Nepali Times #46. Tpsyche that makes the Nepali mood swing that engulfed the eastern Tarai left April’s since it is diffi cult to gauge how so swiftly between irrational exuberance and triumphant paradigm in tatters. There was organised the movement is. incorrigible pessimism. Much has happened the sight of mighty leaders and their auxiliary Trapped between the structurally politically in the past year that has generated intelligentsia first dismissing the Madhesi underdeveloped political groups and immense enthusiasm for the future. The uprising as the handiwork of a few miscreants, the political confusion and anarchy whole state machinery, the political parties, then threatening the use of force to put out fires they themselves have created, the civil society, and regional and ethnic forums supposedly ignited by fundamentalists and biggest tragedy in the history of had begun to focus their energies on the task reactionaries, and finally making a 180-degree the country occurred in the royal of holding the elections to the constituent turn to embrace the same revolt as their own palace on the night of 1 June, 2001. assembly. For a moment it seemed as if we - all within a week. This incident and the events that followed it have destabilised the palace, which was perceived to be a solid and monolithic structure for more than 250 years. This last week has pushed the nation into an Murkier and murkier unprecedented dilemma and crisis. The Nepali nation is bewildered and alarmed. Prashant Jha's Plain Speaking column dealt often with the fate of the Madhes t may be too hasty to hope that At this moment of unstability and Movement ahead of the 2008 elections. This one is from edition #392 of Nepali Ithe Peoples’ War being waged lawlessness, many may be tempted Times 21-27 march, 2008. by the Communist Party of Nepal to fi sh in muddy waters. But doing he main enemies of the Madhesi people are the present Madhesi leaders (Maoist) against the whole system so would only invite more grief to themselves. It is now increasingly apparent that the second Madhesi movement for over half a decade would the people and the country. Events T of January-February happened only to generate a support base and ensure provide a new path for the nation. in the world and in neighbouring political survival for the three parties. Their demands (undefi ned autonomy, self The insurgency has helped push countries have already demonstrated determination) did little to help ordinary Madhesis. The promise of inclusion had the nation further into confusion that during times of such uncertainty, already been made earlier, and was only reiterated. All the three-week agitation did and disarray. It is not possible reactionary forces from inside as well was channelise Madhesi discontent, and generate a wave. But in less than a week, to expect this power to steer the as outside will try to push nations the Madhesi parties blew it all away. nation away from the current crisis, towards the precipice.

The insurgency’s human face Barbara Adams wrote these lines in her Barbara’s Beat column in the 11-17 May Thapadom 2001 #44 edition of the Nepali Times, just before the royal massacre. Manjushree Thapa in this column from #149 of Nepali Times 13-20 June he new Plan to defeat the Maoists is supposed to win the “hearts 2003 pokes fun at the return of the days of the Thapas. Tand minds” of Nepalis, but this slogan which might have made sense three-and-a-half years ago when it was rejected by Girija Koirala, ill last week, the Thapas merely headed only the are sick of being blamed for everything that has is a joke today. TRoyal Nepal Army (Pyar Jung Thapa), the Nepal gone wrong in the past 12 years, breathe easier The Maoists have already won the hearts and minds of much Police (Shyam Bhakta Thapa) and the Armed Police now that they can point out the Chettris, who did of Nepal including many intellectuals in Kathmandu. If the prime Force (Sahabir Thapa, who is of Magar origin unlike the after all govern Nepal for the entire period preceding others, all Chettri Thapas). 1990. minister thinks the way to win over the villagers is to send more Now Surya Bahadur Thapa has become the prime The Thapas themselves are quietly exhilarated, and more force to shoot through the hearts and blow out the minds minister for the fi fth time in his life-not counting his discussing at family gatherings the infi nite kinship of Maoists or their sympathisers, they today understand even less chairmanship of King Mahendra’s advisory council lines that ultimately-by marriage, over generations, than they did three years ago when they launched Kilo Sierra II. One in 1958. The last time there were so many Thapas in many times removed-connect them all to each other. only needs to look at the same discredited faces who still surround government, the regime collapsed under In the end a Thapa is a Thapa unless he is a Magar and advise the prime minister, and who have presumably concocted their weight. Thapa, in which case he should consider changing another exercise in killing, to realise why this plan is doomed to What do non-Thapas make of this? Mostly they his name or at least tacking on a nom de guerre. failure. are too tactful to say anything, not wanting to engender So: The Nepali state has dismally failed to be It is now becoming more and more apparent that the process caste disharmony, though the republicanists among inclusive. What, other than this, is there to say? of creating a peaceful and socially just Nepal can only begin with them do secretly wonder if the weight of Thapas will The Chettri Thapas are back in control of the court. a departure from the political scene of Koirala and his self-serving now lead to another regime change. The Bahuns, who Break out the Khukuri Rum. entourage. 4 BUSINESS 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600

BIZ BRIEFS

44 and counting Thai Airways International has completed 44 years of operation in Nepal. The airways has announced special promotional fares for destinations like Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Australia, and Japan. Real winner Real has announced Rajendra KC from Kathmandu as the fi rst week winner of its recently launched Real Fruit Power Contest. KC has won an imported mountain bike. Real Fruit power Contest, is a 13-week long SMS based competition with the bumper prize of Rs 500,000 as scholarship. Celebration on wheels Syakar Company, the authorised distributor of Hero Honda motorcycles in Nepal, has launched its New Year scheme. Customers will receive discount up to Rs 6500 on the purchase of every bike or scooter and Philips home appliances, and a chance to win Philips products worth Rs 100,000. Spreading love The Live to Love Foundation promoted by the venerable Drukpa Lineage, a 1000 year old Buddhist sect headquartered in the , announced Michelle Yeoh as its second ambassador. The internationally renowned actress Yeoh joins well known Indian fi lm star Aamir Khan as the brand ambassador for the Foundation. One stop solution NepalSutra, a web portal which caters to the needs of people travelling to Nepal has been launched. The online interactive medium helps travellers browse through options regarding travel, adventure, dinning and shopping in Nepal. Spreading wings Sanima Bank has opened its newest branch at Butwal-8, Amarpath. The branch was inaugurated jointly by Directors Mahesh Ghimire and Bharat Kumar Pokharel along with Chief Executive Offi cer Kumar Lamsal. With this recent addition, Sanima now has 22 full-fl edged outlets throughout the country.

HIMAL KHABARPATRIKA 13-27 April 2012 COVER Made in Nepal Making and markeƟ ng of the brand Nepal

EDITORIAL Never Again

COMMENTARY Sealed brains – Kiran Nepal and Rameshwor Bohra United against extremism – Puruso Ʃ am Dahal Banking on Agriculture – Tulasi Gautam

REPORTS Fleeing Madhes 12 point course Living on other’s future

INTERVIEW Pradeep Gyawali 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600 BUSINESS 5 New Year’s resolution This year, let’s promise to clear the backlog of bills in the parliament and ministries

transformation it is received much Financial Action Task Force, the essential to review existing attention. But the global anti-money laundering MY TWO PAISA laws and introduce new proposed Electricity watchdog for not endorsing policies. Acts and policies, Act and the three bills- Mutual Legal Paavan Mathema and their reviews are Electricity Regulatory Assistance Bill, Extradition drafted by the concerned Commission Act, Bill and Bill Against Organised ministries, forwarded prepared in 2008 Crime two months ago. The bills ith the May deadline to the government and registered in have still not been passed and for the constitution which then tables it the parliament in as the extended deadline ends, Wlooming, our at the parliament for 2009, are pending. we are bound to run into trouble legislators will be burning the endorsement. However, The Industrial again. Our Bank and Financial midnight oil again. However, in Nepal’s case, this route Enterprise Act is Institution Act has not set the with national attention focused seems to take years to dated 1992 and has operational guidelines either for on the constitution, we forget complete. Our economy is not moved forward international banks which are that the parliament is also forced to run on guidelines from the review stage scheduled to enter the Nepali responsible for addressing state that are more than two for years. Garment market soon. bills and policies and endorsing decades old in some cases. manufacturers and The lack of political will to necessary reforms. More than three months exporters have been make the economy a priority Perhaps it’s wrong to expect into the “Investment seeking speedy and push for timely reforms is any extra effort from our Year”, our Foreign Trade approval of the bill for preventing these bills from being lawmakers, who have failed Regulation Act and setting up two Special approved. The only area where to complete their primary task Foreign Investment and Economic Zones for there is no backlog is tax laws, even after several extensions Technology Transfer garment, carpet and which are conveniently changed of the deadline. But it’s been Policy are still under handicraft industries. with the budget. The private over a year since any major bill review. Also under inspection other factors, bureaucratic The bill has been awaiting sector has been lobbying for facilitating trade and commerce are the Intellectual Property hurdles and unclear policies the parliament’s approval the endorsement of these bills. was endorsed by the parliament. Policy and Anti-dumping Act. discourage foreign investors. for the past three years. Bills But in order to have a more In fact, over two dozen acts According to UNCTAD’s latest The review is expected to comb relating to labour, competition, conducive business and trade and policies pertaining to the World Investment Report, Nepal out unnecessary clutter from quality standardisation, environment, our lawmakers business sector have been is in the bottom rung alongside the policies and streamline the property and asset management need to be pressurised. Of collecting dust in the parliament Afghanistan, North Korea investment process. If we want are also pending. course, this doesn’t mean every and ministries, some for over and Bhutan when it comes the investment year to bear Bills have not been passed bill in question should be given five years. to attracting foreign direct fruits, we must expedite the even when we are bound by the green light in a hurry. But With changes in local investment. FDI commitment to review method. our pledges to international what can be completed in a and international business the country declined by 48.35 Hydropower, our most organisations. Nepal narrowly few days, should not take five dynamics and technological per cent in 2010-11. Among prized investment sector has escaped being blacklisted by the years. 6 LIFE TIMES 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600 Mountains in large format An alpinist-author and a climber-photographer present the himals in new light

KANAK MANI DIXIT 2009. The photo exhibition is a loving country that is known to Nepalis today name was so diffi cult to spell, the high black-and-white tribute to Sagarmatha- almost exclusively as a ‘donor’. Long rate of expedition failure on the ‘least Chomolongma and nearby massifs. The before even Amundsen made his known and riskiest of mountains’, its ast week, as the world’s highland book is printed and published in Nepal mark as a polar explorer, in 1907 two diffi cult approach, challenging weather countries were in Kathmandu in high quality, while the pictures are 21-year-old Norwegians pioneered and the lack of mountaineer traffi c on Lto discuss climate change, and exhibited at Image Arc gallery at Kulima on . Carl Wilhelm the fl anks. as the Great Himalayan Trail-wallahs Tole in Patan. Rubenson and Ingvald Monrad Aas The author unearths rare archival approached the end of their odyssey, Gangdal writes of his own understood the value of the native material on the German explorations two Himalayan events were also held mountaineering journey in the porters, writes Gangdal, a sharp of the Himalaya between the two world in the capital. One was the launch self-deprecating style of the great departure from the ‘colonial expedition wars, starting on Kangchenjunga with of the book Five Treasures of Great Himalayan raconteurs. For those of leaders from countries with strong Paul Bauer in 1929. Discomfort with Snow: The Story of Kangchenjunga by us who grew up on the lore or Mallory, imperialist traditions, whose style of the Nazi era, replete with the Swastika Norwegian mountaineer Jon Gangdal. Tilman and Shipton, he opens up the leadership can be observed even fl ag on the Himalayan glaciers, seems The other, the opening of an exhibition world of early non-English explorations today’. The author quotes from the to have led to some timidity among the of wide-format Khumbu photography by of the Himalaya. While we know a bit historical work Fallen Giants, that Germans from claiming their rightful role American mountaineer and mountain about the French, mainly because Rubenson and Aas were ‘the fi rst to in Himalayan exploration, but history is in Dolakha District who live beneath portrait-artist Jeff Botz. of Maurice Herzog’s , the discover and publicise the remarkable history, says Gangdal. Gauri Shankar-Tseringma. He got Gangdal’s work is a competent author reminds us of European climbers mountaineering abilities of the Sherpas’. Like so many mountaineers who attached after losing a Rolwaling history of all Himalayan mountaineering beyond the English-rendered accounts. Gangdal’s own desire to climb develop deep links with highlander Sherpa colleague on Everest in 1994. woven around his own climbs ending The legacy of Norway in Himalayan Kangchenjunga was fi red by the ‘low societies, Gangdal devotes himself to In April 2002, with Nepal caught in with the ascent of Kangchenjunga in exploration is an eye-opener, for a celebrity status’ of a mountain whose the upliftment of the Rolwaling people armed confl ict, Gangdal and his brother 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600 LIFE TIMES 7 unfurled on the summit of modern-day incarnation Gokyo, or the Khumbu Icefall close-up a khada on which to Vittorio Sella, though from the Base Camp. Botz’s capture was written: “Peace in Botz’s own idol is Ansel of the summit pyramid of Taboche, in Nepal: Please stop killing, Adams, photographer of this writer’s eyes, shows a mirror image start talking!”. the American West. While of Ama Dablam standing across the The author devotes trekking in Nepal in the valley, the same streaks of ice at the top considerable space to the 1970s, Botz realised it was and identical tilt of the torso (pictured, Italian alipinist photographer impossible to do justice to overleaf). Vittorio Sella, who explored the high himals within the 35 Author Gangdal and the Image the Kangchenjunga mm frame. He taught himself Arc gallery could perhaps help bring region as earlier as 1899, to use a 10x14” camera, a Vittorio Sella exhibition to Nepal lugging a 30x40 cm large- which he carried around the Upper in collaboration. The book and the format camera and tripod. Sella Khumbu to expose poetic images. exhibition both represent, one hopes, gifted posterity with fi ne Himalayan Botz introduces in exquisite detail a barometer of the times. Peace is photography that is instructive till this the rock strata, overhangs, icefalls, returning, and with it the alpinists day, including images of the Lepcha- seracs and snow fi elds. The views and photographers willing to write, Rong people who lived at the base of are unique even when the vantage photograph, print and publish. All of Kangchenjunga. point is standard, as in Thamserku which can only help Nepal make up for The American Jeff Botz is the from Tengboche, Everest from up on the lost decade-and-half. 8 LIFE TIMES 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600

Placid Nuances, paintings on display SIGN, Live music by SIGN band EVENTS by Neera Joshi Pradhan. 6 April to 19 every week except Tuesdays and April, Park Gallery, Lazimpat Wednesdays. 7:30 pm onwards, Corner Bar, Radisson Hotel, Lazimpat. Call Canvas City, explore street art as you 4411818 experiment with stencils, wheatpasting and stickers at this art workshop. 14 New Year’s Eve, catch Monkey Temple April to 15 April, 11am to 3pm, Sattya this New Year’s Eve. 7pm onwards, media Arts Collective, Jhamsikhel 13 April, F4 Restaurant and Bar, Jhamsikhel Learn Photography, learn the basics TAMA, enjoy delicious khaja and taas HANKOOK SARANG, from Bibimbab of photography in this 12 day long set,and a host of other Indian and to Samgyeopsal, Hankook offers a wide session. Rs 2999, 17 April to 28 April, DINING Nepali snacks at a reasonable price. range of Korean delicacies at affordable 7am to 9.30am, 4244348, 9841240341 Gairidhara prices. Thamel (opposite Road ORGANIC GINGER/ NATTI SUNTI, house café) Siddhartha Art Gallery and the B.P Singma Food Court, for the best Koirala India-Nepal Foundation present MUSIC Singaporean and Malaysian cuisine a performance art by Smitha Cariappa. in town. Pulchok, 5009092 and 11 April onwards, 11am to 5pm, Bhatbhateni, 4411078 Babermahal Revisited, Babarmahal

PASTO VOSTRO, a pretty place with some great pasta. Their bacon wrapped sausages are a must. Thamel

NEPFEST: BEGINNING OF THE END, NEW ORLEANS, offers a wide variety this promotional gig of Decapitated of western dishes that are scrumptious features an array of bands like yet healthy. Get hooked on the Amokkshan, Bidroha, Imperium and rosemary chicken and hamburgers. Scarlet Void. Rs 100, 28 April, 2pm Jhamsikhel, 5522708 onwards, Neon Pub, Thamel

MILK COFFEE N COCKTAIL CAFE, coffee house during the day and a cosy lounge serving cocktails at night, try its yarchagumba and molecular cocktails. Woodland Complex, INVENTION IN TRADITION, an YELLOW CHILI, enjoy renowned Durbar Marg exhibition of paintings by Umesh Shah. chef Sanjeev Kapoor’s dishes as this 8 April to 23 April, 10.30 am to 5.30 pm, restaurant serves mouthwatering Indian Chopstix, savoury Asian food cooked Park Gallery, Pulchowk, 5522307 delicacies. Thapathali in true Chinese fashion sure to charm SUFI NIGHT, Hamro Fellowship and impress. Try the famous drums of THE FACTORY, a trendy restobar for Finding the Story, be a part of Sattya’s presents Hemant Rana performing for Bronco Billy, a new restaurant in town heaven. Kumaripati, 5551118 a refreshing stopover in the chaos creative non-fi ction writing workshop. charity for Hospice Nepal. Rs 1000, 20 offering Tex-Mex and Indian dishes. that is Thamel. Great food and drinks, Apply by April 20, April 23 to April April, 7pm onwards, Patan Musean, They make their own corn tortillas, Bhojan Griha, traditional Nepali with zesty music. Don’t miss out on 27, 11am to 3pm, Sattya Media Arts Mangal Bazaar, For tickets contact which get a big thumbs-up. Pulchowk, restaurant that serves great local food the cheesecake, it’s a must. Mandala Collective, Jawalakhel 9802051400 opposite Namaste Supermarket with folk music and dance. Dillibajar Street, Thamel

Highway heading your way

shooting locations at the last hour. And just as we were about to wrap up the shooting, we also had to deal with a budget shortage.” Fortunately producers Sameer M Dixit and Lonim P Dixit were able to bring on board Louverture Films, a New York-based production company which connected the film with an online funding site called kickstarter. com. Highway created history by raising Rs 2.7 million which covered all post production costs. and David Barker who edited the movie. “The response was overwhelming Rauniyar brims with confidence and and the involvement and says, “Highway will be a turning point fter garnering critical acclaim characters come together during an encouragement of anonymous for our film industry. It will encourage at the Berlin Film Festival past ill-fated bus ride from eastern Nepal to supporters gave us the courage to keep independent filmmakers to make movies AFebruary, Deepak Rauniyar’s the capital. going,” says Rauniyar. with a difference and put Nepali cinema highly anticipated Highway will finally However, making the film was quite Despite stiff challenges, the cast and on the global map.” hit Nepali theatres on June 15. a struggle itself. Rauniyar recounts, crew are happy to have the backing Set against the backdrop of a “We faced a lot of difficulties during of renowned technicians like Golden nepalitimes.com banda, Highway weaves together production. We had to cope with fuel Globe winner Richard Horowitz who Watch trailer of Highway five different stories in which all the crisis and strikes. There were changes in has composed the background score 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600 LIFE TIMES 9

G Café, spic and span with a palatable menu, this restaurant is defi nitely worth GETAWAYS the visit. Bouddha Photokipa Comfort Zone, expansive restobar with a decent range of cocktails and barbeque meats. Thamel Creative D Pvt. Ltd and the Kathmandu New Tushita Restaurant, relaxing Photographers ambience and good food. Don’t miss Association is bringing GHANGRI CAFÉ, a quiet place out on their Penne with creamy bacon together photography with comfortable sofas and a lovely and mushroom sauce. Lazimpat, enthusiasts for a 3 day courtyard, perfect for those sunny 44432957 NEW YEAR OFFER, Yeti Airlines offers long exposition. The fair afternoons. Although famous for their a special treat this New Year as you will include exhibitions open sui mai, they offer a few other can get a one way ticket and a one by various organisations, great dishes as well. Pulchowk night free stay for a couple at Raniban forums on photography Retreat for just Rs 6240. First come fi rst and provide visitors a serve basis, 4411855, 981884374 chance to interact with photography experts Fulbari Resort, enjoy the scenic view and stalls with the latest of as you pamper yourself with photography equipment. tennis, golf, drinks and dinners. Rs 6500 Apart from the expo, there per person for 2 nights and 3 days, Call will be other events listed 4461918, 4462248 below. CAFE HESSED, for those with a sweet tooth, the cafe offers a delicious range Homage to Homai, a lecture by photographer Satish Sharma followed by a of cupcakes and doughnuts. Jhamsikhel screening of Three Women and a Camera by Sabeena Gadihoke. 13 April, 6pm, Nepal Tourism Board Lhasa Bar, enjoy a beer or a splash of cocktail at this springboard for excellent CAFEREENA, the extensive menu Photography- a Langauge to Address the World, a presentation by writer young musicians starting out on the has something for everyone. Try their and photographer Frederic Lecloux. 14 April, 4pm, Nepal Tourism Board Thamel circuit. Thamel, 985101043 famous chips chilly. Sherpa Mall, Durbar Marg Comtemporary Nepali Photography, an exhibition where young Nepali Boudha Stupa Restaurant & Café, LAST RESORT, canyoning, hiking, photographers display their latest works. 15 April, 4pm, Nepal Tourism enjoy wood-fi red pizza with a superb Dhaba, for an excellent range of North rock climbing, rafting, mountain biking- Board view of Boudha stupa. Boudha, Indian delicacies, try their unbeatable challenge yourself and be adventurous 2130681 Kashmiri Gosht. Thapathali at the Last Resort. 4700525, 4701247 13 April to 15 April, 11am to 7pm, Mandap, Exhibition Hall

seasoned and grilled. But beware, the fish at the time of review was more bony than usual and irritating to pick out. SOMEPLACE ELSE Take a knife and debone before serving. Tea sandwiches are also available at the counter for Rs 75 including ham and cheese, tuna and grilled chicken on white bread with crusts off. Crab sandwiches (Rs 110) were out of stock but promise a rare treat in the valley. The grilled duck was also done for the day but is not cheap (Rs 995). Imported and domestic beer for Rs 220 can be bought elsewhere. Ask for extra sauce and napkins, if you are on the run. Upstairs seating extends the shop’s kitsch decor including a framed dueling pistol, chalet furniture and rustic signage with hunky-dory axioms. But La Rotisserie the lighting is dismal, and the ambience, uninviting. La Rotisserie is best for takeout. fter a nine-to-five shift there French tradition of revolving hens, for a whole, ensure freshness and Marco Pollo is nothing more sating than and they’re not at all bad. insist your choice of roast straight Apicking up a crusty loaf, a A whole chicken from the four- from the spit rod. Skip the Bakery roast and a couple of cold ones for year establishment will fetch you Sides are sadly limited to french Cafe, just off an affordable and effortless dinner. Rs 495, while a half is half at Rs 250 fries (Rs 75). A spicy cajan rice or the circle in Luckily, La Rotisserie in Jawalakhel and a leg, Rs 125. The succulent bird even a baguette would be ideal. Jawalakhel, across features a slow-cook horizontal spit comes with a standard red hot sauce But if chicken is not your thing, go from the Australian oven that celebrates the 550-year but no mayo or ketchup. If you opt fish. The trout (Rs 395) comes whole, Red Dingo, 10 HAPPENINGS 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600

to take on Mattie’s case after she agrees to pay him a hundred dollars (fi fty up front) for his services. Although a hyper-articulate and skilled negotiator, the 14 year old Mattie WEEKEND WEATHER does not, however, manage to persuade Cogburn to take her True Grit along for the chase. In an unforgettable sequence Mattie jumps on her plucky The westerly front that new pony “Blackie” and pursues Cogburn who has tricked brought water vapors into her by setting out before daylight. He has crossed the river the Himalaya condensed KATHMANDU on a ferry and has paid off the ferryman to escort Mattie with convection and brought back to town. Furious and determined, Mattie plunges into the entire quarter of April MUST SEE the river and hangs on to Blackie’s neck as the marvellous precipitation in one week Sophia Pande horse swims across the river. On the other side await a dour across Nepal. Lingering Cogburn and a livid LaBoeuf who has joined the former to moisture will trigger localised pursue Chaney who he has been tracking since he murdered storms especially in the high FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY a senator (over a dog) in Texas. LaBoeuf spanks Mattie, mountains over the weekend. oel and Ethan Coen are the genius fi lm-making brothers Cogburn points his gun at LaBoeuf to make him stop, and The rain having washed away who have perfected the art of taking a genre, any genre, thus begins an unforgettable adventure with three hilarious the sand haze will make and subverting it to make their very own superlative J and unforgettable characters. sunlight more intense and versions. The brothers have been making masterpieces like There are many, many charming aspects to this fi lm, but raise maximum temperatures. 25-12 24-13 23-10 Blood Simple, Miller’s Crossing, O Brother Where Art Thou, perhaps the one that is the most pleasing is the excellent and No Country For Old Men since the 1980s. In Hollywood dialogue. Everyone speaks in full sentences, replete with they have the rare honour of being allowed “fi nal cut” by rich, unusual words and some very original turns of phrase. their producers - this means that they have the unusual When Mattie’s gun, the one she got from her dead father, privilege of always approving the fi nal version of their fi lms misfi res she is captured by Chaney’s gang and the following - with no producer interference whatsoever. You’ll never see is the exchange between the pert Mattie and the ring-leader a “Director’s Cut” version of a Coen brother’s fi lm simply “Lucky” Ned Pepper: because each of their fi lms turns out exactly as they Mattie Ross: If I had killed Chaney, I would not be in this fi x; want them to. but my gun misfi red. With True Grit, the Lucky Ned Pepper: [Chuckling] They will do it. It 2010 remake of the 1969 will embarrass you every time. Most girls like to play version starring John Wayne, pretties, but you like guns do you? the brother’s have taken yet Mattie Ross: I do not care a thing about guns, if I did, I another classic genre and put would have one that worked. their unmistakeable stamp on it. Westerns are gritty, some In the end it’s hard to say which of the people avoid this gun-slinging, three characters is the one who has the true fast talking genre altogether, but “grit” from the title. Even if you don’t like this version of True Grit ought to “Westerns”, watch this one. It is truly BIKASH DUWARE unmissable. worth-while just to see the FAMILY AFFAIR: PM Baburam Bhattarai, daughter Manushi and wife Hisila Yami Starring Jeff Bridges as Rooster unusual spectacle of a 14 (left to right) join the cleaning campaign on the banks of the Bagmati on Cogburn, the one-eyed US Marshall year old girl track across Thursday morning. who ends up shooting dead most of the the Wild Wild West with criminals he pursues, Matt Damon as two crotchety, yet strangely the slightly goofy, overly learned Texas loveable men in search of her Ranger LaBoeuf (pronounced LuhBeef), father’s killer. and the wonderful newcomer Hailee Steinfeld as the 14 year old Mattie Ross, All DVDs reviewed in this column are the characters in themselves are a rare available in the writer’s favourite DVD delight to watch. The story is simple store: Music and Expression, Thamel, enough, Mattie Ross hires Rooster Phone # 014700092 Cogburn to hunt down Tom Chaney (Josh Brolin) who shot her father, stole his two gold pieces, and skipped town on a horse he stole from his murdered nepalitimes.com victim. Cogburn agrees, reluctantly, Watch trailer

WALLACE WOON The Annapurna Sanctuary HEAVENLY ABODE: Locals securing the ropes around the base of the Rato Macchendra Nath chariot along Pulchok on Tuesday.

gates of the Machhapuchhre cans and bottles at designated Base Camp (12,150 ft), the spick sites. Anti-pollution measures DHANVANTARI and span presentation was hard have been enforced. From Buddha Basnyat, MD to believe. A few years ago Chomrong onwards it is not this trekking route had dirty possible to buy mineral water bathrooms with toilet paper because plastic water bottles strewn across in many areas of pollute and are unsightly. leanliness may be next the trail. But the entire area has Impressively, it was not to Godliness, but in a undergone dramatic changes. possible to bribe someone Cpractical sense, cleanliness This cleanliness has for mineral water. This is has attracted many trekkers to probably led to less infectious probably one of the few places the Annapurna Sanctuary region. diseases among both locals and in Nepal where there is no Of course the mountain selective application of the ringed amphitheatre law. Ozone-treated drinking with a panoramic view water is often available of Annapurna 1 (26, 545 for those who do not wish BIKRAM RAI ft) and Machhapuchhre to carry iodine tablets or OUT LOUD: Maoist leader Ram Bahadur Thapa speaks at the end of a torch rally, (22, 943 ft) among others drink boiled water for water organised by the hardliner faction of the party in protest of the decision to helps entice visitors. But purification. deploy Nepal Army in PLA cantonmetns on Wednesday in Kathmandu. lately cleanliness has However even along this played an important part in trek, it was noteworthy to attracting trekkers here. see how the tobacco industry In this trek along the relentlessly pursuing its Modhi Khola and its cigarette sales campaign. A tributaries, many Gurung pack of Marlboro cigarettes villages dot the landscape which costs twelve dollars with large campsites and tea visitors. There wasn’t a single in New York is sold for two houses with clean bathrooms case of gastroenteritis, which dollars here. Villagers smoking and adequate water supply. The was once a common problem. cigarettes (any brand) and contrast with Kathmandu is Even porters along the trail were cooking their meals in open stunning. Many rhododendron brushing their teeth, something hearths without a chimney will and magnolia trees were in I had not seen in many years of clearly suffer from more lung bloom with tiny gentians and trekking. diseases. primroses along the path. As Most tea shop owners But remember to take you travelled from Ghandruk have tried to cooperate with elastic bandages and ibuprofen (6,600ft), to Chomrong one another to look clean and for sprains and strains along KRISHNA SINJALI (7200 ft) to Dhobhan ( 8350 ft) presentable by picking up paper this undulating, magnificent, FINISHING TOUCH: A Tibetan carpet weaver in Olangchung Gola, a village in and beyond to the Sanctuary along the trail and collecting stair-cased trail. Taplejung, adds fi nishing touches to complete his creation, last Thursday. 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600 KARNALI FOCUS 11 No ifs and buts

have dominated the debate on federalism. But in Nepal’s remote outback, federalism holds the BY THE WAY promise of making government Anurag Acharya more accessible and accountable. The parties should grow up and get over their quarrel about whose agenda federalism is. JUMLA — After the Maoist Federalism is not the brainchild camps and containers were of any one party, but a demand emptied this week, the next that stems from the systemic step is the integration of former marginalisation by rulers in guerrillas into the Nepal Army. Kathmandu. The parallel military structure With a little over a month that had existed uneasily remaining for the CA deadline, through the peace process is the completion of the peace now gone. process may have come late Nearly six years after Here in Nepal’s remote outback, federalism holds the promise but not too late to finalise the signing the Comprehensive of making government more accessible and accountable draft of the new constitution. Peace Accord, the UCPN- Both the Madhesi morcha and M is now a civilian party. Maoists have shown willingness The Maoists, NC and UML ‘completion of peace process’ for in faraway Kathmandu. At People here do not have the to openly debate the nature have agreed on the numbers, statute drafting to kick off. The a gathering in Jumla, people luxury of patience. “We want of the constitution that best ranks and the norms of the parties seem to forget that the hurled angry questions at a constitution and federalism accommodates everybody’s integration process, something peace process does not end with visiting Tourism Minister ensured so that the government demands. This is a welcome step that had bedeviled them in induction of the combatants, Lokendra Bista Magar and comes closer to us and we do and the parties must not let this the past. Disagreements over and the establishment of the demanded to know what was not have to travel for days with spirit wane. the Truth and Reconciliation committees. The real integration taking the parties so long to a delegation to ask them to do Keeping the anarchist Commission and the at the societal level will only finalise the constitution. They what we are already paying tradition alive, the Maoist Commission on Disappearances begin when the final pages of were especially displeased that them for with our hard earned hardliners have taken to the have also seemingly been the constitution are written. foot-dragging on federalism money,” fumes Jagat Bahadur streets. This is at best only resolved at the political Travelling along the banks of was prolonging the integration Khatri, a retired school teacher. a nuisance and not a major level and the technical nitty- the Karnali river from Kalikot to of the long-neglected Karnali It has been three months since obstruction. No matter which gritties need to be sorted out Jumla this week, I could sense into the country’s development the beginning of the new side of the political spectrum through side negotiations. seething resentment among mainstream. session and schools in Jumla they stand on, there isn’t much Now, the political parties do the public, not just towards The region has been and Kalikot still haven’t got difference between Kamal not have any more excuses or one party but the entire state neglected and abandoned by their supply of text books. Thapa’s politics and that of distractions from completing machinery. The penetration successive rulers in the capital. The fear of going back Mohan Baidya and Co. But they the constitution. of television and radio have Most health and education to the status quo of an over- neither have the attention of Of late, the NC and UML kept people updated with what indicators of Karnali are way centralised state and the the mainstream parties nor the have been insisting on the their leaders do, or don’t do, below the national average. danger of ethnic fragmentation people. Future for a forgotten district Contending with a tormented past, Kalikot works to reinvent itself

young mothers,” she says, “they are made to work too hard at home and in the fields and do not get nutritious food, which also affects the health of their babies.” In this arid and chronically food- deficit district, there are also shortages of safe drinking water and firewood. Says Mandara BK, 60: “We risk our lives collecting firewood. If you survive, you bring home a stack of wood, if you fall off those cliffs they will use the same wood in your funeral pyre.” The onset of the peace process and construction of walked for days to the Indian border to the Karnali highway have given residents flee the fighting and find jobs. Locals hope about the future. With better access remember how the Indian border guards to markets, farmers are earning income harrassed them, saying they were aiding from apples, mushrooms, herbs and tea. Indian Maoists. Those who migrated faced “The dry weather and rocky ruthless exploitation. Many were cheated mountains may be unsuitable for growing and cruelly exploited. rice but they are not unproductive,” With peace, fewer people migrate. And says agriculture expert Chuman Singh the government’s investment in health Giri, who believes Kalikot has the and nutrition programs is improving the potential for organic produce. Irrigation living standards in Kalikot. Under-five schemes and rainwater harvesting could PICS: ANURAG ACHARYA child and maternal mortality rates have reduce farmers’ dependence on rain-fed dropped. With UNICEF, the government agriculture. Kalikot could also develop ilaspura BK and Kali Pariyar rise this once-neglected and remote district. has implemented its Decentralised Action into a trekking and rafting spot along the every morning, and equipped Until recently, many families in Kalikot for Children and Women (DACAW) in 23 scenic Karnali Valley, but for that the Bwith a scale they go from house- were severely malnourished. Infant and districts including Kalikot. infrastructure has to improve. to-house weighing newborns in the maternal mortality rates were at sub- Social mobiliser Kali says the main For the first time anyone here can village of Daha. They advise pregnant Saharan levels, and the district’s mean life reason for the improvements is the remember in this powerless district and nursing mothers about nutrition and expectancy was only 46, compared to the presence of a health clinic in her village, once battling for survival, the dreams of immunisation. national average of 63. but she says there are still huge challenges. inhabitants have expanded beyond the This systematic approach to During the war, thousands of “The district still has high incidences of desire to escape starvation. healthcare in Kalikot is transforming impoverished villagers from Kalikot uterine prolapse and malnutrition among Anurag Acharya in Kalikot 12 KARNALI FOCUS 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600 We still want to live The government spent $20 million in 2010 for HIV response, but not much of it got to the village of Rakam

NARESH NEWAR in DAILEKH

ansara Sijapati smiles husband’s family and even her measure her immune strength. Ko Lagi Pahuch (Access for centres have neither the budget as she poses for a own mother refused to take her According to the District Change) which distributes nor the support to take care of Mphotograph, but then in. Health Office (DHO) there are antiretroviral drugs once every the epidemic in Dailekh. breaks down and cries when she “But I still want to live,” 185 people, mostly widows and two months. “After detection we worry tells her story. says the 31-year old Mansara children, living with HIV in There are only two voluntary about breaking the news to Four years ago, her husband even though she is landless and Dailekh. A majority of them are counseling and testing centres them, and we try our best to killed himself after strangling homeless. Her brother-in-law has here in the village of Rakam, in Dullu Bajar and Chukla, both console them,” says Sushil their three-year-old when he given her refuge, but she can’t but they get no help from the several days walk far away from Bikram Thapa from the Nepal found out they both had HIV. even afford food or pay for visits government. Their only hope is remote VDCs with high HIV rates STD and AIDS Research Centre Mansara was kicked out by her to Surkhet for her CD4 count to a local group called Parivartan like Rakam. But even these two (NSARC). There are many cases That time of

RUBEENA D SHRESTHA in ACHHAM

or four days every month many women in Achham move out of Ftheir houses into tiny sheds because they are deemed unclean, the gods will be angered and bring ruin upon hapless male members of the family, crops will wither and die, cows will stop giving milk. The tradition of ‘chaupadi’ stems from ignorance and superstition, and requires married women to be banished to the cowshed for four days and unmarried women for seven days every month during their periods. Mothers and their newborn babies, too, have to go to the cowshed. Ousted from their homes, the women have little access to clean water, face dangers from snakes and wild animals PICS: RUBEENA D SHRESTHA attracted by the scent of blood, are Old traditions that banish women to outhouses prone to physical assault, violence and even rape. Living in such unhygienic EXCOMMUNICATED: Such is the hold of tradition during their periods die hard in mid-western conditions exposes them to infections and superstition that Achham women still willingly and disease. banish themselves to outhouses during their Nepal despite literacy and affluence The narrow, squat little outhouses are monthly periods. 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600 KARNALI FOCUS 13 Beyond news uraj is just 12 years old. Ravi is eight called ‘NGO journalist’. But in places like Sand Siva is 13. They are all HIV the rugged, impoverished mountains of positive orphans living in Rakam who lost mid-western Nepal, journalists have a their parents to full blown AIDS. Ravi asked job not just to collect and disseminate visitors: “Are you here to help us?” information, but also to follow-up with the Such questions are always inevitable, authorities in Kathmandu. Bearing witness and journalists are often at a loss on how to suffering is not enough when there is so to respond to them. We parachute into much indifference around. villages, interview a few people and head In Dailekh, officials at the DDC and back to the city with ‘exclusive’ interviews the DHO blame apathy in Kathmandu to and ‘quotes’. We gather news, write reports the AIDS epidemic here. We took that to and inform the public, and move on to the the officials in Kathmandu. The UN and next story. But is that enough? Isn’t there a NCASC admitted frankly that they lacked higher calling? information about the situation in Dailekh Shouldn’t journalists make sure that and promised to investigate. Let’s hope the responsible people, in this case, that happens soon. aid agencies and government, are held Here in Kathmandu, the faces of HIV accountable and pressured to take action? widows and orphans appear to urge action, In other words, is awareness enough? forcing me to ask myself: “What have I done Shouldn’t there also be action? to alleviate their plight?” One thing is sure, If reporters do that, they are said to writing about it is not enough anymore. have crossed the line into activism, or Naresh Newar

MIDDLE OF NOWHERE (left to right): because people feel there is The village of Rakam in Dailekh no point in getting tested. The which has been ravaged by AIDS. NCASC’s Hemant Chandra Mansara Sijapati tells the story of Ojha agrees that Dailekh needs a husband who committed suicide serious and urgent attention, after strangling his HIV-positive daughter. The scenic beauty of a and has been hampered by the Karnali sunset masks the suffering lack of strong advocacy from of this neglected land. the district’s aid coordination committee. The government spent $20 million in 2010 for its only Rs 200,000 per year to HIV response, but it doesn’t look support all people living with like much of it got to Rakam. HIV and AIDS in Dailekh, but In Kathmandu, UNAIDS care and treatment for each country chief Maria Elena person costs at least Rs 25,000 Filio-Borromeo is also surprised annually. There is also a crucial about why Dailekh falls between need to support HIV positive the cracks. “It’s amazing that children and orphans who there is big money but it is not PICS: NARESH NEWAR Post, who is the only health HIV epidemic is now no longer need help with nutrition and going to a place like Rakam, official in the VDC. “It is not the injecting drug users but the male education. we need to look at why this is of suicides after being detected disease that is killing patients, labour migrants. “We are very disappointed happening,” she told Nepali with the virus, and there is a but the mental stress and poor “I don’t understand why and frustrated with the people Times. dire need for new centres in the nutrition.” international aid agencies running the Global Fund who district. Mid-western Nepal is an and the National Centre for have totally abandoned this “We are desperate for help, AIDS hotspot mainly because HIVAIDS and STD Control have district,” says Dailekh’s Local nepalitimes.com please help us communicate infected male migrant workers abandoned these people, at least Development Officer, Dil this message urgently to the spread the virus on returning they could help the children,” Bahadur Shahi. An epidemic of stigma and central government and the from India infecting, wives and says Deepa Bohara, an activist Khagendra Jung Shah of discrimination #592 “They don’t get rich, they get UN,” says Gehraj Khanal, chief new-born babies. The high-risk with Parivartan Ko Lagi Pahuch. Dailekh Hospital says the lack HIV” # 353 of Rakam Karnali Sub-Health group in Nepal’s concentrated So far, the NCASC provides of state support is dangerous

“I will not risk it” adha Nepali Pariyar is a single mother Rwho has come back to live at her father’s the month house ever since her husband abandoned her for a younger woman. She had just returned from a day breaking stones and dank and windowless. If a family doesn’t not considered to be a normal, natural, working in the fi elds. Her father’s house is have a chaupadi shed, neighbourhood biological phenomenon, this practice is among the better ones in the village and women share a common cowshed going to continue,” says women’s rights the shed lies in his property. She shows us sometimes with up to 15 women packed activist, Manju Thapa. the separate utensils which she has to use like sardines inside. This is starting to happen. In the during her periods. Mathura Kami, now 40, was first sent district capital Mangalsen many women “My father works as a guard at the bank to the shed at 11 when she got her first have stopped going to sheds once a and has a steady income. He built this nice new house with many rooms and welcomed periods and had to stay there for seven month not because of awareness, but my son and me back,” she tells us, “he is days. “I was so scared and didn’t due to growing affluence from also a Christian and does not believe in know what was happening,” remittances. More money chaupadi anymore and tells me to stay in she recalls, “I would go for means better houses with the house itself. But I cannot. What if I touch days without food because more rooms, and so there is something and something bad happens? they would just forget about space inside the house for Who will take responsibility? I will not risk it.” me. I now have my own that time of the month. The group of women who have gathered daughters and I do not send “Now some families around all nod and agree with Radha. them to the sheds and have have enough money to them sleep in a little room build separate rooms so the inside the house itself.” female folk do not have to go stones and collect firewood all day before easy buzzwords for NGOs to conduct Considering a woman to be to the goth, the biggest problem is retiring to the shed in the evening. awareness programs, and distribute unclean when she is on her periods is not still poverty,” says Ambika Chalaune, a “If I can feed the cow when having my allowances to participants. But local limited to Achham, it is endemic among young local politician. periods, why can’t I drink its milk? If I activists say many women who are many Hindu families in Nepal, and even Women are still isolated once a can collect firewood for the kitchen, why ‘made aware’ go back to being banished educated and wealthy women aren’t month, but at least they are not sent off can’t I cook? If I touch a plant, it will die to their sheds every month. allowed to enter the kitchen, visit temples to the outhouse. Traditions change, but they say, then why am allowed to breast- or touch male members of the family. not always for the better, since women feed in the chaupadi?” asks Chalaune. “To end chaupadi, women need a who used to at least have four days of rest Growing literacy is spreading nepalitimes.com secure environment. But till there is once a month now have to work in the awareness, but old traditions die hard. Custom-made injustice #247 a change of belief, till menstruation is fields, gather grass for the cattle, break Chaupadi has become one of those 14 FROM THE NEPALI PRESS 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600 “India’s Nepal policy has Filthy business not been without flaws.” Interview with SD Muni, Indian Professor and expert in South Asian Mysansar.com, 8 April politics, Kantipur, 8 April

Residents of Kathmandu were in for a surprise on Friday as Prime Minister Baburam Bhattarai, Kantipur: What is ministers, police and army officials stepped out on the streets with brooms in their hands to your assessment of launch the ambitious National Volunteer Campaign. However, delight quickly turned into the ongoing peace frustration when discrepancies in the campaign budget were discovered. While the proposed and constitution budget for the week long program is Rs 20 million, deeper inspection reveals that materials for writing process? the campaign were purchased at much higher prices than their actual market rate. For instance, SD Muni: I am each mask cost Rs 35 and each pair gloves was priced at Rs 50. optimistic this time because the UCPN SEE BUDGET: (Maoist) has taken an official decision S.N Description Quantity Rate Total Remarks to conclude the 1.1 Cleaning utilities 20000 20,00,000 Kathmandu Metropolitan City peace process. Young CA members are 1.2 Masks 50000 35 17,50,000 Nepal Government pressurising the 1.3 Gloves 50000 50 25,00,000 Nepal Government leadership and the 1.4 Pamphlets 350000 1.50 5,25,000 Nepal Government Supreme Court has ruled out any further extension of the CA term 1.5 Plastic bag free campaign 10,00,000 Nepal Government leaving no other option than to conclude the process within the deadline. 1.6 Cloth bag 100000 50 50,00,000 Nepal Government 1.7 Production/broadcast/ 10,000,000 Nepal Government There is a general refrain about profound Indian influence in publication of media messages Nepali politics? Do you agree? 1.8 Volunteer mobilisation expense 56,25,000 Nepal Government No, I don’t think this is the case. Anti-Indian rhetoric has become fashionable in Nepal these days. All I want to say is that as long as 1.9 Transportation management and fuel Kathmandu Metropolitan City Nepali leaders take care of their affairs and do not dash off to Delhi Total 1,94,00,000 with every little problem, nobody can influence their decisions. Nepal Government 1,74,00,000 Kathmandu Metropolitan City 20,00,0000 The Indian government has been increasingly troubled by its own Maoist insurgency. Do you see any connection between Indian and Nepali Maoists? People won’t question the 20 million if they see visible differences in Kathmandu’s sanitary I don’t believe there is any organisational contact between the standards. But if the campaign fails then each penny spent will be highly scrutinised. Also two parties, although there may be personal links between some a week long cleaning spree is not the long term solution to the city’s problem. So the government members. should focus its attention on raising awareness and giving continuity to successful efforts such as fining those who litter public places. How would you explain the Indian government’s refusal to send the agreemo for Ram Karki (and Chandrakant Poudel in the past) who had been nominated as the Nepali Ambassador to India? The Indian government must have been worried about the legal complications involving Karki’s case due to his past ties with Indian Naxalites. But I personally feel his agreemo should be cleared.

What do you feel is the basis of India’s Nepal policy? People here think India’s foreign ministry dictates the Nepal policy. What they don’t realise is that right from the Prime Minister’s office, there are many other influential groups lobbying in Nepal’s favour. For instance, during the economic blockade enforced by Rajiv Gandhi’s government, people like Sankaracharya, the Army Chief, business community, powerful people in Bihar and UP and many leaders in the ruling Congress party pressurised the state to lift the blockade. Often, bureaucrats sitting in the ministry make wrong calls and reporting from the embassies is not always accurate either.

Elephant: May 27

Basu Kshitiz in Annapurna Post, 6 April

QUOTE OF THE WEEK

We must not allow the parties to shy away“ from federalism based on identity,“ directly elected president and inclusive proportional representation.

Pushpa Kamal Dahal, UCPN-M Chairman. 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600 FROM THE NEPALI PRESS 15 Boycott politicians Visionary hospital Ramchandra Baral, Aarsee Times, 9 April Editorial in Nagarik, 9 April only one of the best eye-care hospitals in Nepal, but it has earned acclaim both at home and While only a few weeks remaining for the CA deadline to expire, the progress so abroad. In 2006 Dr Sanduk Ruit of Tilganga was far has been disappointing. People are outraged at CA members and politicians for Tilganga Eye Centre recently introduced presented the prestigious Ramon Magsaysay not delivering on their promises and pushing the country to uncertainty. Instead of laser technology for eye operations in Nepal. Award for taking ophthalmologic services to speeding up the constitution writing process, our politicians were embroiled in one People with poor eyesight can opt to undergo remote areas of Nepal. Now that the centre controversy after another and their reputation has been badly tarnished. If this trend this surgery and do away with their glasses. has laid the foundation, our government along continues, people are bound to get angrier and will become completely disillusioned While the operation costs around Rs 200,000 with other social organisations need to ensure with the present political system. to Rs 800,000 in other countries, Tilganga that people who cannot physically visit the Civil society and the media have to play a more active role in pressurising the offers the service for only Rs 45,000. Officials hospital still have access to the services. Private politicians to fulfi l their duties and a wide-scale campaign spearheaded by the media is the need of the day. at the hospital are hopeful that the affordable hospitals should also take lessons from Tilganga Let’s stop inviting CA members and politicians to unnecessary programs and fee will help attract patients from foreign and stop focusing solely on profit maximisation giving them platforms to fool the public. Let’s keep them out of the headlines and front countries as well. and become more service orientated. We pages. Let’s hold them accountable to the promises they make through the media. Unlike other non-governmental congratulate Tilganga team for making a great Let’s stop publicising any businesses or enterprises that politicians are involved in organisations in Nepal which function as contribution to Nepal’s healthcare system and until they draft the constitution. Unless these steps are taken, politicians are not going fronts for dollar hoarding, Tilganga is not for taking on a pioneering initiative. to clean their acts. Hurry Hurry!

Kiran Bhandari in Nagarik, 12 April

After the major breakthrough in the peace process, UCPN Chairman Pushpa Kamal Dahal invited journalists to his residence in Lajimpat. An elated Dahal briefed the editors and reporters about the ‘bold’ decision he took by successfully completing the integration process and said he would play a similar role in completing the statute drafting also.

Throughout the press meet Dahal seemed in a great hurry and kept looking at his watch. Reportedly, PM Bhattarai was constantly calling Dahal from the special committee meeting. After half an hour Dahal, left his residence in a hurry but to the surprise of the journalists who were still being served refreshments, in came Indian Ambassador Jayant Prasad followed by former NC lawmaker Amresh Kumar Singh. Not surprisingly, Dahal was back at Lajimpat leaving Bhattarai and the special committee stranded. After being told about the Indian Ambassador’s unannounced visit, PM Bhattarai stopped calling and Dahal paid full attention to Prasad. 16 BACK SIDE 13 - 19 APRIL 2012 #600 www.nepalitimes.com www.nepalitimes.com

Taking to the streets

PICS: AMRIT GURUNG aburam (“Demolition has been spent on tearing down to enforce strikes. Muscles-for- hijacking, Minister Loktantra be no new constitution. Man”) Bhattarai is doing buildings so far, and all this hire have plenty of employment first accused his detractors Throughout the brief briefing, the Bwhat he did best during flattening is being carried out by opportunities as there is a string of being part of a “Bahun Chairman was twitching more the war: destroy buildings, none other than communards of bunds scheduled for the conspiracy against Janajatis” nervously than usual and glancing blow up bridges, reduce under the conjugal leadership of coming month. If the Ass may and then threatened to sack at his watch. Apparently he was neighbourhoods to rubble. Old Comrade Hatoda and Hasiya. just make a humble suggestion, staff at Nepal Airlines and his late for a Special Committee habits die hard, which is why instead of this piecemeal own ministry for leaking the meeting. Soon after he left, he finds re-building the streets FG approach it would save all of us information. This is probably a assembled editors were treated he has demolished a much more It doesn’t bode well for the a lot of aggravation if they all got preview of how a future Chief to a series of dramatic comings difficult proposition. Having country that New Year 2069 together and closed the country Minister of an ethnic federal and goings. Who should sweep taken to the streets, BRB is falls on Friday the 13th. And a down and declared it officially province with priority rights is into the driveway but Excellency looking like a reincarnation of conference of astrologers this out of bounds till 27 May. going to behave. Jayant closely escorted by shadow Napoleon III who razed the old week predicted that because of FG FG Minister Amareso. Soon after, the quarter of Paris to build the the confluence of Jupiter and Chairman returned. Obviously wide boulevards so as to foil Saturn, the planets are not quite This is probably the first time On Wednesday, Comrade the “urgent” Special Committee any barricade protests. And aligned yet for the promulgation in global aviation history that a Magnifico invited selected meeting wasn’t as urgent as the just like Napoleon got Baron of the new constitution. They Minister of Civil Aviation has editors to his Lazimpart villa urgent meeting with South Centre. Hausmann to do the dirty work, have advised waiting till May 1, hijacked an airliner. Lokendra to thump his chest about FG the PM has got his own better but to avoid the 27 May deadline (“Comrade Schengen”) Bista what a “bold and courageous” half, Comrade Yummy to take because that whole week is Magar commandeered a plane step he had taken to send What a coincidence: integration charge of making KTM look completely inauspicious. being readied for a flight to the army in to take over the got a jump start after the visit of like a war zone. The bonus, of FG Phaplu to take himself and his Baddie camps. The irony of the Indian Army chief and his course, is that the demolition boss Comrade Awesome on a it all seems to have been lost meaningful public statement “not work is keeping a lot of YCL It looks the US and European hoppig flight across western on the man. PKD was trying to mess around” with the army. busy and out of trouble, which visa bans are not a deterrence Nepal this week. The guy is to beat BRB’s address to the Barely had Gen VK is not entirely a bad thing anymore for bund organisers. The eligible to get immortalised in nation on Thursday and hog Singh’s Embraer because it is better that they are blacklisted hired goons know the Guinness Book of World all the credit for concluding taken off than our wielding picks and shovels than they are not getting B-2 visas to Records, and we are waiting the peace process. Awesome’s own COAS also .303s and socket bombs. Over the states anyway, so they figure for the director of Loot to turn main message was that he started singing a at the municipality, they have they may as well indulge in this into a movie. And when wants to be a directly-elected different tune on lost track of how much money todfod, dhungamuda and kutpit the media reported on the president, otherwise there will integration. ISSN 1814-2613

CDO Regd No 194/056/57 Lalitpur, Central Region Postal Regd. No 09/066/67