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The Historical Society of Rockland County

Vol. 37, No. 4 October-December, 1993

The Trial of Benedict Arnold

Leonidas Hubbard: Explorer The Mysterious Francis Wheaton Hiking through History IN THIS ISSUE

Leonidas Hubbard: Explorer of Labrador...... Page 3 Ninety years ago, Leonidas Hubbard, the assistant editor of Outing magazine and Congers resident, led an expedition into the unchartered regions of Labrador. An thony X. Sutherland recalls those fateful days and months.

The Mysterious Mr. Wheaton...... Page 8 When the Suffem Village Museum acquired a watercolor done by local artist and mis sionary Francis Wheaton, Josephine Watts sought to answer the question of why his scenes nearly always depicted sheep.

Hiking through History...... Page 13 Charles Holbrook, Supervisor for the Tbwn of Clarkstown, regularly jogs along a trail that hugs the Hudson shore and leads past several historic sites.

Book Review — Footprints in the Ramapos...... Page 17

COVER PICTURES. History Month opened with “The Trial of Benedict Arnold,” held at the Old ’76 House in Tappan on October 1. The evening was filled with revelry, boos, cheers, fine drinks, and tasty food prepared from late 18th-century tavern recipes. John Haring (Kevin O’Malley, Esq., left) hammered away at the defense while General Benedict Arnold (Stanley S. Ward, right) pleaded his case for handing plans to West Point over to British Major John Andre. Despite additional pleas from Peggy Shippen Arnold and her daughter, the crowd in attendance voted in favor of the prosecution. Photos by Lee Brod.

SOUTH OF THE MOUNTAINS (ISSN 0489-9563) is published quarterly by the Historical Society of Rockland County, 20 Zukor Road, New City, N.Y. 10956; 914-634-9629. Single copy price is $2 plus 75 cents postage and handling.

While all efforts are made to ensure accuracy in the articles, the society assumes no responsibility for opinions and conclusions expressed or implied by contributors.

Exec. Director: Debra Walker, Ph.D. Chairman of Publications: Albon P. Man Senior Historian: Thomas F.X. Casey Stable Typographers, Pearl River, N.Y. Editor: Marianne B. Leese Printed by Print Sprint, W. Nyack, N.Y.

2 Leonidas Hubbard Explorer of Labrador

by Anthony X. Sutherland

or many years now I have been aware that there was some connec tion between the Village of Hav- Ferstraw and Labrador in Canada, but without ever pondeiing the matter any fur ther. It just seemed that the two places wrent together for some reason though they are worlds apart. It was not until recently that I finally discovered what may have been lurking in my subconscious all the time. Quite by accident I discovered that Leonidas Hubbard, a waiter and adventurer, who died while exploring Labrador in 1903, was buiied in Mount Repose Cemetery in Haverstraw. I found reference to this in a book entitled The Lure of the Labrador Wild, written by Dillon Wallace and published in 1905. For one who thought he knew all the celebrated individuals of North Rockland, the discovery that a noted explorer was buried in Haverstraw came as a pleasant surprise to me and immediately sent me to work to find the missing pieces. Now it is 'v y i perhaps time to reintroduce this forgotten explorer and martyr to the cause of geography, to the present generation of Rocklanders. At the time of his ill-fated expedition to Labrador, Leonidas Hubbard was an editor

Full of expectation, Leonidas Hubbard looks forward to his trek into the wilds of Labrador.

3 for the outdoors and nature, and it was the outdoors that he wished to dedicate his life. In 1899, with supposedly only $5 in his pocket, he came to New York City and found employment contributing articles to the Daily News and the Saturday Even ing Post, including one noteworthy article on the preservation of Adirondack Park. Around 1900 Hubbard contracted typhoid fever, which forced him to spend a period of time convalescing in Wurtsboro. After his recovery he took on a position as assistant editor of Outing and probably at that time began to live in Congers. It was in the late fall of 1901 while walking MS in the Shawangnnk Mountains near Wurts J- . L boro with his friend and fellow journalist Dillon Wallace that Hubbard first men tioned the idea of going to Labrador. Prior to that, Hubbard had made trips to the interior of Quebec and the northern shores of Lake Superior. The interior of Labrador, explained Hub bard to Wallace, was one of the last unex Mina Benson Hubbard, drawing by J. Syddall, plored regions of North America. Hubbard from bookplate in A Woman’s Way through Unknown Labrador. claimed that not much more was known about Labrador than was known when it was discovered by John Cabot some 400 for Outing, a popular adventure magazine years before. What Hubbard had in mind in New York City, and was living on 32 was to explore the Lake Michikamau Friend Street in Congers with his wife, region and the George River that flows Mina Benson Hubbard, a native of Canada. northward into Ungava Bay. Only the He also lived, or had a summer home, in Koksoak River had been explored; the Wurtsboro in Sullivan County, New York. others were only vaguely mapped. But neither Wurtsboro nor Congers were For the next year and a half Hubbard his native home. made preparations for the trip with final Leonidas Hubbard, Jr. was born on a approval coming from Outing magazine in Michigan farm on July 12, 1872 and came January 1903. A large map of Labrador from a family that could trace its Dutch hung on the wall of his home in Congers, and English roots back to the 17th cen- which Hubbard and Wallace, who would tury. In 1893 he began his studies at the accompany him on the trip, studied University of Michigan in Ann Arbor and intensely. after graduation in 1897, started working Hubbard planned to reach the North for a Detroit newspaper, covering mostly west River Post of the Hudson Bay Com local political nes. His love, however, was pany, located inland from Rigolet at the

4 end of Hamilton Inlet and at the mouth laid to rest in Haverstraw. Wallace of Grand Lake, by the spring of 1903. From recorded: there, they would travel by canoe and por We laid him to rest in a beautiful spot tage to the George River via Grand Lake, in the little cemetery at Haverstraw, at the the Nascaupee River, and Lake Michi very foot of the mountains that he used to kamau. He hoped to reach the George roam, and overlooking the grand old River the end of August, in time to observe Hudson that he loved so well. The moun the Naskapi Indians gathered there for the tains will know him no more, and never annual caribou hunt. They then would again will he dip his paddle into the placid proceed down the river to a Hudson Bay waters of the river; but his noble char Company post on Ungava Bay and return acter, his simple faith, a faith that never to New York by boat. wavered, but grew the stronger in his hour On July 15, 1903, Leonidas Hubbard, of trouble, his bravery, his indomitable accompanied by Dillon Wallace and a will—these shall not be forgotten; they half-blooded Cree Indian by the name of shall remain a living example to all who George Elson, left the Northwest River Post for the George River, 150 miles in the interior. Using what appears now to have been faulty geological survey maps, the party went up the Susan River rather than the Nascaupee River. This mistake would prove costly, taxing their food supply and energy. They were within sight of Lake Michikamau on September 15 but with a dangerously low food supply, decided to abandon their original plan and go back the way they came. They saw no Indians or caribou herd, and during the entire trip managed to kill only one caribou. The trek back to the Hudson Bay Com pany post became a race for survival. Unable to find much food other than some fish and an occasional bird, their situation became desperate, especially for Hubbard, who was left in a makeshift hut while the other two continued on. Later Wallace was also too weak to go on and had to be left, leaving Elson to get help. Finally Elson managed to reach the post, and a rescue party set out in the snow for Wallace and Hubbard. Wallace was found alive but Hubbard had already died many days before. Hubbard’s body was recovered in the spring and brought back to America and The ragged and almost barefooted Hubbard.

5 love bravery and self-sacrifice. that is all. I think the boys will be able At the time of the expedition, Hubbard with the Lord’s help to save me. was a Sunday school teacher at a church Mina Benson Hubbard was determined in Congers, and apparently this church that her husband’s work would not go used Mount Repose in Haverstraw as a unfinished. So in a bold decision and resting place for its members. accompanied by George Elson and other During his Labrador expedition, Hub scouts, she went to Labrador in 1905 in bard kept a diary in which one can find an attempt to complete her husband’s several references to both Congers and work. Her experiences were recorded in Wurtsboro. On October 8 he wrote: her book, A Woman’s Way through How I wish for that vacation in Unknown Labrador, published in 1909. In Michigan or Canada! or a good quiet time the same year Dillon Wallace made his own at Congers, and I am aching to unite home trip back to Labrador. His 1905 expedition sketches and stories that come to my mind. was the subject of his book, The Long We talk much of future plans, and the Labrador Trail, published in 1907. Until camp fire continues to be a glorious recent times, most of the world’s meeting place. knowledge of Labrador and the Indians Two days later on October 10 we find this of the region was based on these books and entry: those by the famous Labrador missionary Beautiful day till about noon. Then doctor, Wilfred Grenfell (1865-1940). cloudy and cold west wind. Cheerful camp Later, Mrs. Hubbard married Harold fire as always. About twenty trout, nine Ellis, son of an English Indian official, and boiled for supper. Same for lunch. Much spent the remainder of her life in England. talk of grub and restaurants, and our She made at least one more trip to home going, much of George’s room in New Congers to visit friends in 1908, then York, of good days in Congers. I want returned to England. Dillon Wallace went to go to Michigan and Canada and to on making expeditions to other wild Wurtsboro’. Oh, to see my sweetheart and regions of North America and writing be home again!” additional adventure stories and books, but The last entry was for Sunday, October exactly what happened to the courageous 18. Left alone while his companions went George Elson is unknown. for help, Hubbard recorded his final At some time, perhaps during her 1908 thoughts: visit to Rockland County, Mrs. Hubbard Alone in camp—junction of Nascaupee placed three tablets in Mount Repose and some other stream—estimated Cemetery near Leonidas Hubbard’s grava (overestimated I hope) distance above head They read as follows: of Grand Lake, 33 miles. ... I drank a 1872-1903 cup of strong tea and some bone broth. I To the memory of Leonidas Hubbard, Jr. also ate some of the really delicious Sportsman-Writer-Explorer-Christian rawhide, boiled with the bones, and it made Who died in his tent in Labrador me stronger— strong to unite this.... The alone-but in spirit triumphant and free acute pangs of hunger have given way to indifference. I am sleepy. I think of death To record from starvation is not so bad. But let no Completion in 1905 of his undertaking one suppose that I expect it. I am prepared, by Mina Benson Hubbard, his wife, who

6 explored and mapped the Nascaupee the county with the prominent figure in and George Rivers, thereby obtaining the field of exploration. ► world recognition of this work and The photographs in this article are taken for all time associating his name with from The Lure of the Labrador Wild: The Labrador. Story of the Exploring Expedition Con To the honor of George Elson ducted by Leonidas Hubbard, Jr., by Faithful guide, who recovered Dillon Wallace, Fleming H. Revell Co., Mr. Hubbard’s body and his records New York, 1905, Tenth Edition. Wallace’s from the interior of Labrador in the book has recently been reprinted by depth of winter and whose devotion Chelsea Green Publishers, Post Mills, made possible Mrs. Hubbard’s work Vermont. 190S-1905. The late Isabelle Saveli, former senior Knowledge of Leonidas Hubbard and his historian of the Historical Society, also famous expedition into unknown Labrador discovered that Leonidas Hubbard was was probably familiar to many people of buried in Haverstraw and wrote an Rockland County in the early years of this article about his Labrador exploration far century but since then has slipped from the Sunday Journal-News, July 6, 1986. people’s memory. Maybe it is an appro A follow-up article in Michael Hitzig’s priate time in 1993, on the occasion of the column, “On the Scene,” August 3 pin 90th anniversary of the Leonidas Hubbard pointed the address of the Hubbard house Expedition, to reacquaint the citizens of as 32 Friend Street in Congers.

TIDBITS OF HISTORY From Meetings of Rockland County Board of Supervisors Tobacco Use

December 3, 1874: It was learned that Sheriff Charles Benson was giving tobacco to the prisoners in the county jail. He was reprimanded by the Board. One cannot give tobacco to the prisoners at county expense.

October 25, 1880: Sheriff Henry Christie was authorized by the Board to purchase three dozen ‘earthenware spitoons’ for use in the Court House.

With the “No Smoking” edit of today in public buildings, shall we return to chewing tobacco?

Provided by “The Chronicler,” Frank Smith Schnell, Sr., a volunteer in the Rockland County Office of Records Management/Archives.

7 - A ■ V » The Mysterious Mr. Wheaton

by Josephine J. Watts

he year was 1902, sometime after him (photo above) as an extremely hand nightfall, when the creak of wagon some young man with dark hair and wheels was heard on the road moustacha He was forty-five years old on Tgoing up the mountain above the littlethis publication data Although the book village of Hillbum. Two yoke of oxen were features 433 artists, several of Wheaton’s struggling to pull all the household goods paintings are reproduced, along with a few of Francis and Jeanie Wheaton along the sketches, all of sheep. And that is one of rough path going up the Houvenkopf to the mysteries about the artist. Why the small cabin that was to be their home. sheep?—sheep in the bam, sheep outside Why had Wheaton, an accomplished artist, in summer, sheep in winter, a lone sheep and his gentle and well- educated wife, now in a snowstorm. in their fifties, leave their home, “Rock In the fall of 1983, the Suffem Village Cottage,” on Ridge Road in Park Ridge, Museum received one of its finest exhibits, New Jersey to settle in the rustic environ a matted and framed watercolor by ment of the Ramapo Mountains? Francis Wheaton. It was donated by Francis Wheaton was no stranger to the Minnie F. Single, and it was Mrs. Single New York-New Jersey border area west who unraveled a part of the enigma, for of Hillbum. He was a Seventh Day Adven she was the daughter-in-law of Margaret tist and had been doing missionary work Single Wheaton, the artist’s second wife. among the poor, eventually reaching out The picture raised another question. Why to families in the mountains. Apparently the Wheatons decided to make this area did it look so European with a wide bam their life work, bought over forty acres of with thatched roof, a woman in a long dress land, and settled into a small three-room and sunbonnet, and a strange little roof cabin. One of these rooms was to be the of straw supported by four poles covering only school available to the mounfain the haystack? In the foreground were the children for the next seven years. sheep. It was a beautiful painting, almost By profession Wheaton was an artist. like a pastel in its portrayal of spring and The Quarterly Illustrator for 1894 shows new life, but painted by a man aged 86 who

8 had been crippled and in pain much of his the structures cool in summer and retain time on Earth. ing heat in winter. In one of the books that Our search for the story of the the docent made available was the Dutch mysterious Mr. Wheaton and the key to barn neatly thatched and another item the setting of the picture began. My hus describing in detail how the strange little band, Gardner Watts, historian for the haystack covers were made. We were told Village of Suffern and founder of the there had once been several such barns in museum, and I headed for the Park Ridge the River Edge area. We were to learn Library. I was told there was nothing in more, for in the 1894 Quarterly Illustrator the files under “Wheaton,” but already we was a photograph of a painting by Francis had found several stories about the artist Wheaton labeled, “Home and Sheepsheds in booklets and historical society annuals, of Francis Wheaton.” It was the same bam unfortunately with conflicting information. as in our picture and there were the sheep. The librarian did give us one valuable piece Records show that Francis Wheaton was of information; though the local museum born on September 3, 1849 in Chile. His was closed, the Wortendyke Dutch Barn father, for whom he was named, was born at 13 Pascack Road was open. Could this in New York State; his mother, Lucerna, be our barn? in Spain. While living on the mountain, There it was, a 200-year-old barn with Wheaton and his first wife adopted, in wide gable ends typical of the barns built 1909, two children, Bessie and Lillian in areas along the Hudson settled by the DeGroat, aged 8 and 11. Later they took Dutch. I asked about thatching, a method in Alice. I had seen in the Netherlands for keeping The Wheatons apparently supplied

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■ Watercolor by Wheaton in the Suffern Museum Village.

9 breakfast and lunch for the children who husband. He took us up and there was a attended their school, along with books, trail you could walk up and when you got paper, and slates with help from the ladies up to the top of the mountain—it was of Hillburn and Suffern. Miss Nora Snow just beautiful. Lovely green grass, it was was especially helpful and when, in 1908, beautiful. I remember Mrs. Wheaton so Mrs. Wheaton became ill, Miss Snow and well, too, she was a lovely old lady- others put pressure on the State of New snow-white hair. Jersey to force the authorities to provide J.W: Did they have the school built at educational facilities for the mountain that time? children. Early in 1909 Bergen County E.S.: She taught up there. She taught gave orders that land and a school must the colored folks. be provided. A proposition to spend $25 J.W: So quite a few people then did go on land and not more than $1,325 for a up to take lessons? building was passed by the Mahwah E.S.: I don’t know how many. I know my Tbwnship voters. The school was com husband did. pleted by the fall of 1909. This was the J.W: Do you have any of his paintings Ledge School on Stag Hill. Although the that he did? school was closed in 1945, the building is E.S.: Well, my daughter has some [refers still in use. to her husband’s paintings]. Who were these people who left their J.W: Do you have any idea why Francis home to reside in the mountains above Wheaton always painted pictures of sheep? Hillburn? An interview in 1983 with Mrs. E.S.: No. Oh, he had a few sheep. Ethel Sailing, who remembered Mr. J.W: Do you remember what time this Wheaton well and was a lifelong resident was when you were going up? of the Suffern area, adds to their portrait: E.S.: Well, I must have been a girl about 17 or 18 when I went up there because that E.S.: My husband took seven years of was when I first met my husband. I must art from [Francis Wheaton]. He used to have been 18. walk right upon the mountain every time J.W: Were you aware of his [Mr. he took his art lessons. Wheaton’s] leg, his artificial leg? J.W: Up the Houvenkopf. E.S.: Oh, yes, he walked with crutches. E.S.: That was before we were married. Many times he walked into town; he would J.W: That’s interesting. I didn’t realize come down into town. He had a wooden that he gave art lessons. leg, a peg leg. He walked with one crutch. E.S.: Oh, yes, and he painted beautiful J.W: Was he quite elderly when you pictures, mostly sheep. knew him? J.W: The one we have is sheep and it’s E.S.: No, I wouldn’t say so. He hair was a watercolor. not gray, and he was a rather heavy set E.S.: Most of the paintings I have seen man, very pleasant. [were oils]. The Rexall drug store [north He did such beautiful work. east comer of Lafayette and Orange J.W: Do you remember when he went avenues, Suffem] used to exhibit his paint into the old people’s home [Alms House, ings in the window. I guess that was his County Home]? means of selling them. I was up at his place, E.S.: No, after I got married I sort of oh, with several of the young folk with my lost trace of him.

10 J.W.: Were you ever in his house? walk down the mountain and a return up E.S.: Yes. the steep slope loaded with packages, Mrs. JW.: Do you remember any of his pic Wheaton was generous with her coffee and tures hanging on the walls? biscuits. In a book entitled Country E.S.: He had many sheep pictures. I Walks in Many Fields (1935), Joseph remember that so well. His own, mostly Rydings, a member of the Paterson [New his paintings. I can remember Mrs. Jersey] Rambling Club, describes the Wheaton, his wife, standing in the door beauties of the mountain garden and the way, watching us leave. She was rather kindness of their hostess: heavy, not too heavy; but she had the snow- The Rambling Club spent Sunday in the white hair, and she was waving as we went uhlds of the Ramapo Mountains. The place away, and she had an apron on that went is not so primeval as some of the great way down to the bottom of her dress. She Western mountains are, but it comes as looked so homey. near to such a condition as the necessity I remember that he had goats and he of reaching trains or trolley within the would give us fresh milk to drink, and she space of three or four hours will pey'mit. had some biscuits that she gave us. From the summit of the Hoveyi Kopf one J.W: Do you recall anything else about saw faint traces of civilization, but they up in the mountain? were a long way in the distance. ... And, E.S.: On the way going up—it was a oh, how beautiful was the inteiwening very rough climb— they had the stones landscape! Hills behind hills, with here marked, so we knew the trail to go up and and there some lake or stream glistening when we got up there, there used to be in the sunlight, villages and small towns a rock called Balanced Rock. I don’t know set in the surrounding verdure like pearls if it is still there or not. in emerald. . . . In 1984 longtime Suffern resident ... It was the intention to visit good Mr Roscoe Jones, at this time in his nineties, and Mrs. D. Chvot, but the quaint log cabin wrote: was silent, and though interesting in itself “I remember Mr. & Mrs. Wheaton well. the visitors would have been delighted to Mr. Wheaton was an amputee, having lost meet the kind and hospitable occupants one of his legs. He wore an artificial limb. who lived within the lone mountain cabin, The Wheatons lived up in the mountains if the old Indian track winding in and out west of Suffern. There they took care of among the woods could be called a lane. several children of the vicinity. I think Mrs. Wheaton purchased most of her medical . . . The Ramblers came out at last to supplies in Roger’s Drug Store when I the home of Mr. and Mrs. Francis worked there. She was a grand old lady. Wheaton. The good couple were as .kind The Wheatons were quite religious. and attentive as ever, and glad to see their “Mr. Wheaton’s paintings were mostly old rambling friends from Paterson. . . . of ‘sheep scenes.’ I think my cousin has one Here the Ramblers sat down and ate of them hanging in his parlor. It depicts luncheon. Water from a neighboring sheep caught in a severe snowstorm.” spiring served as a beverage until the kind Apparently hikers looked forward to host and hostess could prepare coffee. The stopping at the small cabin surrounded by ancient old schoolhouse was visited, where gardens; and though shopping meant a the Wheatons taught school.

11 Although Mrs. Wheaton fell ill in 1908 the Snow family. When Mrs. Wheaton and the district built a school, both passed away (don’t know the year) she was Wheatons apparently continued their buried on their land, but was later interest in the children, adopting Bessie transferred to Ohio where her people were. and Lillian and later taking in Alice. Mrs. No more info’ on her. His obit did not men Wheaton died in 1917, leaving still another tion either wife. At least I don’t remember mystery. We were told that she was buried that it did. on the mountain and that later “her folks So long for a while, took her away” to be buried at home. She Minnie F. Single was said to be a graduate of Wellesly, but no mention is made of where she was bom. October 21, 1983 Perhaps most important was the legacy of memories she left, of beautiful gardens, Dear Mrs. Watts, and of a kind and gentle lady. My Mother-in-law moved to Suffern In 1983 we were making arrangements when she left the Mt. She was an L.P.N. with Mrs. Single to pick up the painting and had to work. I don’t know the year by Francis Wheaton, at the same time ex but she had rooms over the newspaper changing information on the artist: shop in Wayne Ave. and I was there when I married in July of 1929. She moved to July 23, 1983 Paterson in 1930, after my husband and I did. This I know from being there. She Dear Mr. Watts, had two girls in school. I met my husband Did I tell you how I came by the paint when we both worked in the “California ing? My Mother-in-law gave it to me in Perfume” factory [now Avon Products, 1940. It was painted in 1935,1 believe. It Inc.]. I don’t know when they changed the has been in storage a long time. I also name. I’ll be in touch. believe it was the last one Mr. Wheaton painted when he was in the home in Viola. Sincerely, It is a water-color. My Mother-in-law was Min Mr. Wheaton’s second wife. I was married in Suffern in 1929, then moved to Pater January 8, 1984 son. I am now 75 and alone, and so I wish Dear Mrs. Watts, to place a few things before I pass on. I was pleased to hear from you, but what Thank you, a surprise! I never heard it before that Mr. Mrs. M.F. Single Wheaton had any adopted children. I do know he was a Seventh Day Adventist, as September 24, 1983 my Mother-in-law took his religion but Dear Mr. Watts, later dropped it, and I remember her say I have been trying to think about the ing she was on the Mt. four years. info’ my Mother-in-law gave me about Mr. Sincerely, Wheaton. He and his first wife went to the Min Single Mt. as Missionaries and started a school in their living room (1902). His wife taught. The only facts I knew about Francis Sometime later Nora Snow had a school Wheaton when I began my search were built for the Mt. people. You must know his profession—an artist who painted

12 mostly sheep—and his place of burial— divorced husband of Margaret. On the Reformed Church of West New Hemp November 24,1942 Francis Wheaton was stead, known as Brick Church. On calling disinterred from the Rockland County the cemetery office, I was told he was Welfare Cemetery [in Viola] and buried in buried on November 24, 1942 from the the cemetery of the Reformed Church of Sniffen Funeral Home, Spring Valley. West New Hempstead. His occupation, Research soon revealed another mystery. artist. Length of time in the district: Mr. Wheaton, the mysterious Mr. twelve years, one month, four days. On a Wheaton, had died in June 1942, a six- scrap of paper with the record were two month difference. I suspected the reason names, Bessie DeGroat of Cragmere and and called the funeral home. Their records Edith Shannon. gave me these facts: Francis Wheaton was born September When the cemetery official at the Brick 3,1849 in Chile; died June 22,1942 at the Church Cemetery located the stone for me Rockland, County Welfare Home. His and cut the grass around it, so I could find father’s name was Francis and he was bom the modest marker of the artist’s grave, in New York; his mother, Lucema, was one more fact was revealed, just one. bom in Spain. He was listed as the word—‘Humanitarian.” ►

Running through History from Haverstraw to Upper Nyack by Charles E. Holbrook

ver the course of the last ten years, moderate jogger. I have taken up the sport of jog It is about 7 a.m. on a given Saturday ging together with my friends and Glen Nelson’s Caravan pulls up to the OGlen Nelson, Angelo Gallo, and DougJohannes Snedeker Homestead in Congers Nelson. Many hundreds, if not thousands, (c. 1747, my home). Angelo Gallo is waiting of miles have been logged through in the turnaround, and Doug Nelson will Rockland Lake State Park, Nyack Beach be there in a minute. When all have State Park, and Hook Mountain State arrived, we pile into the Caravan, travel Park. Our interest in jogging has also up Endicott Street, and make a left onto provided us with the opportunity to the Kings Highway, now called Old appreciate the enormous amount of his Haverstraw Road. We travel north to tory that has taken place here in the past Route 304 and up to Route 9W, where we 250 years. Many who pass by this area on park the car next to the historical marker a daily basis may not be aware of the indicating Snedekers Landing. Walking hidden treasures it possesses, *' from around the gate that keeps vehicles out of Dutch Tbwn in the Village of Haverstraw the state park, we soon leave civilization all the way to Nyack Beach in Upper behind and enter into a world of our own. Nyack. The distance is approximately five The incline from the Snedekers Landing miles, or about 45 minutes if you are a marker to the railroad and river below is

13 the DeNoyelles brickmaking company, and in the 18th century was the site of Kiers’ Landing. As we come down the hill, we can visualize the brick sheds and the clay deposits that dominated this area approx imately a century ago. At the bottom of the hill we make a right and again pick up the Kings Highway, now called Riverside Avenue. We are headed south through the heart of the Tilcon property and up into the area called Dutch Tbwn. The road Ted Ludwiczak’s stone heads. From photo by through here is narrow and the homes are Aarne Anton, Primitive Art Gallery, New York. located close to the road. Along the way we pass the home of Ted Ludwiczak, a master stone carver, where an intriguing rather steep. One can still see the Long sight greets us. His yard, which extends Clove Road coming under the old 9W along the riverfront, is filled with hundreds bridge (abandoned in 1927) and follow it of somber, haunting stone heads that he as it makes a series of sharp lefts down has carved over the years. They make us the hill until it goes under the railroad think of Easter Island and give us an eerie tracks on its way to Dutch Tbwn in feeling. Haverstraw. It is obvious that the Long Shortly we leave Dutch Tbwn and enter Clove Road at this point was originally part the property of the Palisades Interstate of the Kings Highway, and it was the first Park and pick up the path that will lead section of the highway to approach the us the five miles to Nyack Beach. Just Hudson on this side of the river. The date before the entrance to the park, an old path of 1904 on the railroad overpass further leads down to the Redstone Quarry and attests to the importance of Long Clove the foundation of an old house. From this Road/Kings Highway in the days before quarry and others nearby came the sand the dominance of the automobila The over stone used to build many of New York pass is similar to the one that is located City’s buildings. Within about 150 yards at Gurnee Street in Haverstraw. In any south of the entrance to the park is the event it takes only a few minutes to jog spot where British Maj. John Andre met past these landmarks and reach the tracks with Gen. Benedict Arnold in 1780. In just north of the.Long Clove tunnel, which fact if one climbs down the hill to the would be on our right. The tunnel was shore below, there is a rock labeled, blasted through the mountain in the ‘ANDRE THE SPY LANDED HERE early 1880s, and the piles of rock on either SEPT. 21, 1780.” side of the tracks are indicative of the A few hundred yards further south, we monumental job this must have been. see the remnants of the old Redstone We jog north on the tracks approxi Beach, which was abandoned sometime mately a mile to the Short Clove railroad after World War II. This location crossing, make a right, and then proceed throughout history has had a number of down the hill towards the Tilcon property. names. Originally it was called Snedekers The Tilcon property was once occupied by Landing, then Waldberg Landing, and

14 finally Redstone Beach. The area is continue south and are now running on the overgrown but in its day it was quite edge of the cliff overlooking the river. This active. There are remnants of park is part of the Clarkstown coastline. I benches and walkways designed to ac- believe there are very few people in commodate the people who used the Hud- Clarkstown who truly realize that the town son River for swimming and other has a riverfront and a magnificent one at recreational purposes. On the path itself that. The path is thickly wooded and moun- are the remnants of the caretaker’s home, tain laurel is scattered about. As we con- long since abandoned. tinue, we experience a few small hills as A few yards before the Redstone Beach the path leads us steadily toward area, we cross from the Town of Slaughters Landing, or Rockland Lake. Haverstraw into the Tbwn of Clarkstown. Two-and-a-half miles into our journey, we If we look up the hill and to the right, we pass a gorge on our left where the river see the Long Clove tunnel entrance on the has eroded the cliff and a rock is balanced railroad tracks, and as we go a bit further on the point of another stone. It gives the we see another of the stone quarries that impression of the California coast, yet this were abandoned in the early 1900s. One is the Hudson shore. Just beyond we go can picture the residents of Haverstraw up a little rise and encounter more quar- walking along the path to work in these ries similar in age to the ones we had quarries. Just a few hundred yards south passed previously, are the foundations of the Foss stone As we jog along the well-maintained crusher. There are also a number of aban- park trail, we wonder at the EW.A. doned stone structures which in some way workers of the Depression years. They must have serviced the stone crushing filled in the gullies, constructed bridges, operation. From the Foss stone works we and built the crafted stone buildings that

552

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Stone Crusher, Rockland Lake. From an old post card, John Scott Collection.

15 -

-v Hook Mountain Beach, Nyack. From an old post card, John Scott Collection. we see. Then another abandoned house can see the pilings at low tide where ice comes into sight, which at one time was loaded and shipped to New York from housed the caretaker of the park. Below the early 19th into the 20th century. Tb the this house are the remnants of swings and right of the path are the remnants of the benches and the concrete pier where boats ice chute where huge blocks of ice were of considerable size once docked and lowered to the river on a cog train, which landed passengers coming to enjoy the day. was first introduced about 1860. Just beyond the abandoned house there Quickly we run past these ruins, up a hill, is an old baseball backstop. We imagine and down another to the cinder path that baseball being played here and people will take us the rest of the way to Nyack hitting towards the quarry wall. Despite Beach. This last section of the run is a the growth of 40 years, we can still little over a mile along which we appre visualize the crowds of people who, at one ciate the power and beauty of the Hudson. time, visited this site. Also at this location About half way down the path, the Hook is another stone crusher which was looms on our right with its impressive placed here to accommodate the quarries. cliffs. Finally we enter Nyack Beach State Its enormous size makes it look like an Park a bit tired but rejuvenated as a result ancient ruin and indicates the tremendous of our experience with nature and history. amount of stone that was taken from these We climb back into a car we parked at mountains to build roads as well as Nyack Beach prior to our run and make buildings in New York City. the journey back to civilization and A few more minutes running time takes reality. We return with memories of those us down an incline into the area that was who lived in Rockland long ago and once the Rockland Lake dock. The path look forward to our next run through brings us right down to river level, and we history. ►

16 BOOK REVIEW

Footprints in the Ramapos: Life in the associated with the mountains and the Mountains before the State Parks, by park system. Marjorie Srneltzer-Stevenot, published by One of the more interesting chapters is the author, 1993, 113 pp., $12.95. about the basketmakers. The craft has died out in Rockland; but in Maine lives a John Marjorie Smeltzer-Stevenot aptly Avener, who as a boy in Sherwoodsville, describes her new book as “a window in learned to make baskets from Fred Hogen- a moving train through which the reader camp. Today he spends winters making can glimpse a variety of scenes.” Colorful, them and is sought after by people wishing poignant scenes they are. She introduces to revive the craft. readers to the beginnings of the Palisades Unfortunately, errors are to be found. Interstate Park system and then sends The pages given in the table of contents them on their way to meet the people who for about half of the chapters are incor once populated the Ramapo Mountains rect. In her list of “Names New and Old,” bordering Orange and Rockland counties. Mrs. Smeltzer-Stevenot incorrectly places She tells of families having lived in the hills Sherwoodsville within the Village of for over 250 years who were abruptly Montebello (it lies in the Village of Wesley displaced in the name of state’s right of Hills). George Clinton is credited with the eminent domain. 1742 survey of the Cheesecoke Patent in Many of the stories tug at the heart as the second chapter but Charles Clinton is she writes of old family burying grounds correctly named as the surveyor in the being flooded, and grave markers, which third chapter. were no more than large, uninscribed Nevertheless, Footprints is wonderful fieldstones, being used to fill ditches by armchair reading. The reader can start unknowing park workers. The head shakes with any of its chapters, soon transported in dismay as she describes the fate of the back in time to days when Phebe Jane, Johnstown Church: “Without waraing the Jerome Charleston, Aida Bessie Carey, church was demolished, furnishings, pews, and Lester Bailey flavored life in the moun hymnals, even the piano strewn over the tains. It is a “must read” to understand ground.” the sacrifice made by the people who wrere Footprints supplies helpful sources at forced from their homes and to appreciate the end of most chapters. The list in more significantly the vast natural variably includes individuals the author resource that is enjoyed today by hikers, has interviewed. Their stories give you the campers, Sunday drivers, and picnickers. sense of life as it had been in such hamlets —Marianne B. Leese as Sandyfield, Baileytown, Pine Meadow, and Doodletown. She offers a handy ref Footprints in the Ramapos is ava ilable for erence list of the old iron mines and purchase at the Historical Society; Visitor furnaces that provided livelihoods for the Center, Palisades Interstate Parkway; mountain people, and finishes the book Suffern Village Museum (Sundays); and with a descriptive list of place names Pickwick Book Shop, Nyack.

17 WELCOME, NEW MEMBERS July 1, 1993-September 30, 1993 Stella G. Bailey, Highland Falls Camela Weldon Potter, Elizabeth Barry, New City Princeton, N.J. Mary R. Cardenas, Thppan Mr. & Mrs. Richard G. Ramsay, Robert Devino, Stony Point Nyack Donna DeSousa, Suffem Jennifer Rachel Rubin, New City Ann Gray, Sparkill Beth Ann Rose, Ihllman Melissa Hartloff, West Nyack April Secor, Blauvelt Theodoria Haskell, West Nyack June L. Smith, Orangeburg Robert Holzborn, Miami, Fla. Marjorie Smith & Paul F. Palen, John P. Jurasek, Piermont Piermont Arnold & Barbara Levinson, Suffem Dr. Robert Masters, Pomona Suzanne Mitchell, Wesley Hills Sustaining: Lynn Nannariello, Spring Valley Mrs. John D. Blauvelt, Dr. & Mrs. H. Nakazawa, Hollywood, Fla. Valley Cottage Martin F. & Florence Schwartz, Madeleine S. Oswald, West Nyack Greenport Mr. & Mrs. Serge Pischalnikoff, Inge & Harold Soerensen, Lodi, Calif. West Nyack

Centurian: Avon Products, Inc., Suffem Kantrowitz & Goldhamer, PC., Beckerle Lumber-Supply Co., Chestnut Ridge Spring Valley Liberty Travel, Inc., Nanuet Bring, Savad, Smith & Fein, Mann, Mann, & Lewis, PC., Nyack Nanuet Stuart M. Mitchell, Atty., Nyack Carpezzi Agency, Inc., Nanuet Montana Contracting Corp., Nyack C.E.O. Office Complex, Nyack Nyack Hospital Foundation, Nyack Dime Savings Bank of New York, O’Connell & Riley, Pearl River New York The Old ’76 House, Thppan Dominican College, Blauvelt Post Master, Ltd., New City First UNUM Life Insurance Co., Ramsay, O’Malley, & O’Connor, Pearl River Ihppan Paul Friedrich, Contractor, Rose Hill Antiques, Englewood, N.J. South Nyack St. Thomas Aquinas College, Furthermore Press, Germantown Sparkill Good Samaritan Hospital, Suffem Schofield, Colgan, Perry, Lawler, Milton J. Grant Agency, Nyack Pearl River Sewah Studios, Inc., Marietta, Ohio Robert Gray & Co., Pearl River Mr. & Mrs. Paul J. Tbndler, New City Green Point Savings Bank, Edward Traverson, Nyack Flushing Larry Weinstein, Re/Max Spoon Karl Hess, A.I.A., Nyack River Real Estate, New City

18 The following have upgraded their memberships:

Sustaining: Blauvelt Fellow: Norman & Dorothy Urquhart, Duke Marketing, Inc., Nyack Pearl River Gray Fox Enterprises, Pearl River IBEW Local Union No. 363, New City Centurian: Balsamo, Byrne, & Cipriani, Suffem Coyle & Coyle, Inc., New City President’s Circle: Hon. & Mrs. John Hekker, Nyack Jeffrey Keahon, Pearl River Olori Crane Service, Inc., Nanuet Panco Petroleum Co., Stony Point Noel Oursler, Nyack Strasser & Assocs., Monsey Sky Meadow Bindery, Inc., Suffem

___ IN MEMORIAM ___ July 1, 1993-September 30, 1993

Harry Bellaver* Edward Persico* Clarence E. Erickson Esther Gamsey Van Slyke* Charles Gosnell, Ph.D* Albert Holland, Jr* *A memorial gift has been made in this David H. Jacquot* person’s name and has been entered Edmond L. Mann* into the Book of Remembrance. Marilyn Murphy*

______QUERIES______

* Hugh Goodman of Monsey is researching the life and work of Charles Winfield Tice (1810-1870), an artist who lived in Newburgh, New York, and welcomes information. Tblephone: 914-357-0711.

* Lance W. Ingmire, 93 Old Stonefield Way, Pittsford, N.Y. 14534, is seeking to buy, sell, or trade Civil War information and military items. Special interest is in the 95th New York Volunteers, Infantry: letters, diaries, CDVs and any military data on the unit. Telephone: 716-461-0100 (Bus.), 716-381-5445 (Res.).

SPONSORSHIP. The Historical Society depends on the generosity of organizations, corporations and individuals to fund the production costs of South of the Mountains. Now in its 37th year of continuous publication, it is the only magazine devoted to Rockland County history. The society is grateful to these sponsors and welcomes additional support. For further information, please phone 914-634-9629.

19 914-634-4677 PANCO PETROLEUM FAX 914-624-2059 ______COMPANY

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WANTED-CIVIL WAR INFORMATION / MILITARY ITEMS Buy / Sell / Trade Special Intercut In: 95th NEW YORK, VOLS. INFANTRY Letters, Diaries, CDV’s and Any Military Data of the Unit LANCE W. INGMIRE — 95th Regimental Historian (716) 461-0100 (Bus.) 93 Old Stonefield Way (716) 381-5445 (Res.) Pittsford, NY 14534

The Historical Society of Rockland County, 20 Zukor Road, New City, N.Y. 10956, is a nonprofit educational institution and principal repository for original documents and artifacts relating to the county. Its headquarters is a four-acre site featuring the 1832 Jacob Blauvelt House and a full-service history museum. Basic membership, which includes mailed copies of SOUTH OF THE MOUNTAINS, is $30 family, $22 individual, $17 senior citizen (over 65) and student (to age 22), $100 and up businesses. The society is supported, in part, by the Arts Fund for Rockland, the County of Rockland, and the New York State Council on the Arts.

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