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The War and Fashion
F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book. -
Chapter 1 1850-1890: the Dawn of Modern Clothing
Chapter 1 1850-1890: The Dawn of Modern Clothing This Teacher’s Guide, compiled with the assistance of Stephanie Kramer, is designed to provide you with a summary of the key points in the development of fashion during the period/decade covered in this chapter. It also provides a concise survey of the significant designers of the time, essay and discussion questions, and further reading and research suggestions. Objective The main objective of this chapter is to study the development of fashion during the second half of the 19th century, particularly the establishment of those aspects of the fashion system that are still in place today. Fashion in this period reflected the latest developments in engineering, chemistry, and communication and witnessed development of the role of the “fashion designer.” Key Teaching Points The following teaching points have been arranged thematically and highlight the important topics that need to be covered in order to meet the main objective of the chapter. Social and Economic Background • Britain o reign of Queen Victoria (1837-1901); stress on propriety and etiquette o rapid industrialization o expanding overseas empire • United States o impact of Civil War (1861-1865) on global trade o emergence as industrial power • France o reestablishment of court during Second Empire (begins 1852, ends with Franco-Prussian war 1870) o transformation of Paris into fashionable modern city • Japan o opens borders (1853-1854) o goods enter the Western market and impact Western tastes The Arts • Orientalism and Academic -
The Rise of the Costume Designer: a Critical History of Costume on the New York Stage from 1934 to 1950
Louisiana State University LSU Digital Commons LSU Historical Dissertations and Theses Graduate School 1968 The Rise of the Costume Designer: a Critical History of Costume on the New York Stage From 1934 to 1950. Eelin Stewart Harrison Louisiana State University and Agricultural & Mechanical College Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_disstheses Recommended Citation Harrison, Eelin Stewart, "The Rise of the Costume Designer: a Critical History of Costume on the New York Stage From 1934 to 1950." (1968). LSU Historical Dissertations and Theses. 1444. https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_disstheses/1444 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at LSU Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in LSU Historical Dissertations and Theses by an authorized administrator of LSU Digital Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. This dissertation has been microfilmed exactly as received 68-16,312 HARRISON, Eelin Stewart, 1915- THE RISE OF THE COSTUME DESIGNER: A CRITICAL HISTORY OF COSTUME ON THE NEW YORK STAGE F R O M 1934 TO 1950. Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College, Ph.D., 1968 Speech-Theater University Microfilms, Inc., Ann Arbor, Michigan Co) EELIN STEWART HARRISON 1968 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED THE RISE OF THE COSTUME DESIGNER: A CRITICAL HISTORY OF COSTUME ON THE NEW YORK STAGE FROM 1934 TO 1950 A Dissertation Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of the Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in The Department of Speech by Eelin Stewart Harrison B.A., Brooklyn College, 1945 M.A., Louisiana State University, 1946 May, 1968 , ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author wishes to express gratitude to all those who have so graciously given of their time and skill in the accomplishment of this task: To my esteemed professor, Claude L. -
Fashion Behind the Footlights: the Influence of Stage
FASHION BEHIND THE FOOTLIGHTS: THE INFLUENCE OF STAGE COSTUMES ON WOMEN'S FASHIONS IN ENGLAND FROM 1878-1914 DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Karen Adele Recklies, B.A., M.A. * * * * * The Ohio State University 1982 Reading Committee: Approved By Alan Woods George Crepeau Firman Brown, Jr. Advisor Department of Theatre Copyright Karen Adele Recklies 1982 I I I l I ~ ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I would like to thank the following, people for their help in preparing the dissertation: my advisor Alan Woods, George Crepeau, Firman Brown, Jr., Mary Millican, and my husband Don for his preparation of the illustrations. ii VITA 1971 ...................... B.A., Kent State University, Kent, Ohio 1971-72................... Teaching Assistant, Department of Theatre, Kent State Univer sity, Kent, Ohio 1974 ............... M.A., Kent State University, Kent, Ohio 1976-80 ................. Graduate Teaching Associate, Graduate Administrative Associ ate, Department of Theatre, The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio 1981-82 ................. Graduate Administrative Associ ate, Center for Medieval and Renaissance Studies, The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio PUBLICATIONS AND PRESENTATIONS "Lillie Langtry's Stage Costumes: Examples of Contemporary Fashions in England and America, 1895-1900." Part of the Competitive Costume Panel at the American Theatre Association National Convention, August 1981. "Lillie Langtry's Stage Costumes: Examples of Contemporary Fashions in England and America, 1895-1900." Accepted for publication in Theatre Studies. FIELDS OF STUDY Major Field; Theatre Studies in Costume Design and Costume History. Professor Michelle Guillot Studies in Literature and Criticism. Professor John Morrow Studies in History. -
By-Step Drawing Methods for Theatre Costume Designers Pdf
FREE CHARACTER COSTUME FIGURE DRAWING: STEP- BY-STEP DRAWING METHODS FOR THEATRE COSTUME DESIGNERS PDF Tan Huaixiang | 350 pages | 30 Apr 2010 | Taylor & Francis Ltd | 9780240811840 | English | Oxford, United Kingdom Drama 50A - Intro to Costume Design - Drama - Research Guides at University of California Irvine Costume design is the creation of clothing for the overall appearance of a character or performer. Costume may refer to the style of dress particular to a nation, a class, or a period. In many cases, it may contribute to the fullness of the artistic, visual world which is unique to a particular theatrical or cinematic production. The most basic designs are produced to denote status, provide protection or modesty, or provide visual interest to a character. Costume design should not be confused with costume coordination which merely involves altering existing clothing, although both create stage clothes. Four types of costumes are used in theatrical design: historical, fantastical, dance, and modern. Village festivals and processions in honor of Dionysus See also: Dionysia amongst the ancient Greeks, are believed to be the origin of theatre, and therefore theatre costume. The sculpture and vase paintings provide the clearest evidence of this costume. Some masks were constructed with a cheerful as well as a serious side on the same face in an attempt to indicate a change in emotion without a change of mask. During the late Middle Ages in Europe, dramatic enactments of Bible stories were prevalent, therefore actual Christian vestments, stylized from traditional Byzantine court dress, were worn as costumes to keep the performances as realistic as possible. -
What Makes the Difference in Costume Design for Contemporary Dance? from the Point of View of Pieces Colour, Colour and PLAY and a Costume Designer
What makes the difference in costume design for contemporary dance? From the point of view of pieces Colour, colour and PLAY and a costume designer Janne Renvall Major in Costume Design Master’s Degree Programme in Design for Theatre, Film and Television Department of Film, Television and Scenography The School of Arts, Design and Architecture Aalto University Supervising professor: Sofia Pantouvaki Thesis advisors: Leena Rouhiainen and Reija Hirvikoski 13.4.2016 Ari, this thesis is for you. Thank you for loving and taking care. Aalto University, P.O. BOX 11000, 00076 AALTO www.aalto.fi Master of Arts thesis abstract Author Janne Renvall Title of thesis What makes the difference in costume design for contemporary dance? From the point of view of pieces Colour, colour and PLAY and a costume designer Department Department of Film, Television and Scenography Degree programme Master’s Degree Programme in Design for Theatre, Film and Television, Major in Costume Design Year 2016 Number of pages 171 Language English Abstract The study engages in a costume design activity within two contemporary dance performances: while the experiences in Colour, colour served as an initiative for the investigation process, PLAY became one of the main methods in this practice-based research. As the other significant method was conducting interviews among the audience and team members of PLAY, the thesis brings into dialogue and interprets the material produced through the interviews, the shared knowledge from the collaborative artistic practice, and the knowledge provided by the chosen source books. Thus, the approach of the study could be defined as interpretative hermeneutic phenomenological. -
A History of Costume Free
FREE A HISTORY OF COSTUME PDF Carl Kohler,Karl Kohler,Emma Von Sichart | 463 pages | 01 Jun 1963 | Dover Publications Inc. | 9780486210308 | English | New York, United States Costume - Wikipedia Goodreads helps you keep track of books you want to read. Want to Read saving…. Want to Read Currently Reading Read. Other editions. Enlarge cover. Error rating A History of Costume. Refresh and try again. Open Preview See a Problem? Details if other :. Thanks for telling us about the problem. Return to Book Page. Egypt, Babylon, Greece up through 19th-century Europe; based on surviving pieces, art work, much more. Includes many clear, measured patterns for reproducing historic costumes. Full text. Get A Copy. Paperbackpages. Published June 1st A History of Costume Dover Publications first published January 1st More Details Original Title. Other Editions 5. Friend Reviews. To see what your friends thought of this book, please sign up. To ask other readers questions about A History of Costumeplease sign up. Lists with This Book. This A History of Costume is not yet featured on Listopia. Community Reviews. Showing Average rating 3. Rating details. More filters. Sort order. Start your review of A History of Costume. Dec 02, Joy Pixley rated it liked it. This book covers clothing styles from antiquity to the 19th century. To give you an idea of how dry and academic the text is, the first English translation of this book was published in I have the black and white Dover edition, published in It is a no-nonsense reference book, and gives the impression to me, a rank amateur of being well-researched.