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Seabird Moving a Mile of the Heads of Port Phillip

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Seabird Moving a Mile of the Heads of Port Phillip PHOTOS BY JOHN FORD Travel Around South East Cape CAPE hen Barbara and Richard sailed close to shore, passing Bitangabee Ham pulled into Eden, Bay about an hour out of Eden. Wnearing the end of a four- Bitangabee is a safe refuge in most seas, year, round-the-world voyage, Richard although it looks treacherous from a was a very sick man. He was flown distance. The entrance is quite narrow, but to Canberra Hospital, but eventually opens into a well-protected channel that’s his wife Barbara got him home to safe from the elements. Melbourne, where he spent almost two As we motored south a flotilla appeared years convalescing. off Green Cape. Fishing boats were After a hiatus due to ill health, So when the excuse came around for everywhere: pros and charter craft mixing a voyage on his beloved Bluewater 400 it up with trailerboats amid what looked to Coffs Harbour and back, the 74 year- like a run of kingfish. Out came our lines Dr Richard Ham is back doing what he old doctor jumped at the chance. And and lures in the hope of bagging some so did I, joining the three crew aboard fresh fish for dinner, but we manoeuvred for the Eden to Geelong leg, which for our way through the fleet with no luck, loves best – sailing the open ocean. Our Richard would mean he had completed a despite fish being landed all around us. worldwide circumnavigation. The lures stayed out until we were within By the time we got Seabird moving a mile of the heads of Port Phillip. Suffice from Eden it was past 11am. At first to say, we managed to catch nothing roving photographer JOHN FORD joined we thought Twofold Yacht club were along the way. escorting us out of the bay, but it turned But the voyage was memorable for out we were simply on the same course other reasons. Green Cape is one of those the intrepid 74-year old sailor for his as their regatta. Still, it lent a sense of iconic lighthouses on the Australian coast occasion to our departure. and, as the gateway to Bass Straight, The cliffs south of Eden are spectacular, something of a milestone for ocean racers final fling from Eden around South East with intricate red shapes formed from and cruising sailors. Our arrival was ancient lava flows. The imposing rock rewarded by a lift in the breeze and we construction of Boyd’s Tower sits on the were able to kill the motor, goose wing Cape, the southernmost tip of mainland southern entrance to Twofold Bay as a the sails, and maintain a sprightly pace. reminder of the region’s rich whaling The course changes direction here, history. turning east across Disaster Bay and Australia, and home to Geelong But without much wind, we motor- along the Nadgee Wilderness towards 106 tradeaboat.com.au abandoned. Access to the island must have been difficult and it would have been a special person who could endure the wild and lonely winters there. Once past the island, the mainland came into view under a cloudy sunset. It was one of those skies that photographer Ken Duncan calls his “Jesus Rays” of radiating golden light. It looked like a scene from the Ten Commandments, as the sun set at the far end of a bay shrouded in cloud and bushfire smoke. The coast at this stage is still a few hours away, and we knew our arrival at Refuge Bay would be in the dark. By the time we made our approach it was around 2200 hrs. A night-time entry to Refuge Cove is not to be recommended for the uninitiated, especially with bushfire smoke making it hard to pick out the entrance by floodlight, and with 25 knots up your bum. But David and Richard are familiar with the entrance, so we were able to navigate safely through. it a photographer’s paradise. It was great to get in Refuge Bay and The trip around the point, although we enjoyed a couple of congratulatory windy, was in a relatively calm sea drinks. With the wind howling and the and we were able to hug the coast glow of fires over the ridge, it was an and take the passage through what uncomfortable night. But dawn was sunny the locals call Little Bourke Street. and revealed a truly memorable anchorage. The alternative route wide of Citadel Under most circumstances it would be a Island Light or Cleft Island, also great spot to relax for a few days while known also as Skull Rock. exploring the hills and coastline, but with Once through the passage Cape Howe. Ordinarily, the Nadgee was playing its part, coming slightly around the wind blowing hard from the east we we headed out to look at Skull area is only accessible on foot: a to the south, allowing us to jibe the headsail upped anchor and headed around the other Rock, a huge wind blown couple of days’ walk from either so the sails were set for the night run. side of The Prom’. monolith rising from deep Wonboyn in NSW or Mallacoota in But two hours is not enough sleep! The It was brisk sailing along the rocky water. With the wind blowing Victoria. By boat, it offers stunning night was black by the time it was my turn coastline to South East Point, which sailors off the rock, we were able to scenery. Even from 20 miles away, on watch. Off in the distance, there was the often refer to as The Prom, and which get in close and marvel at the the sand hills of the Cape were glimmer of light from one of the Bass Strait is the southern-most point of mainland stalactites and wind-blown clearly visible and eventually the tip oil rigs. Eventually a number of flames Australia. Past the wide expanse of sculptures of the natural of the Gabo Island Light revealed were visible, and at six knots they became Waratah Bay, I look up at the imposing amphitheatre. While it looked itself. something of a feature of the night. I cliffs leading to the lighthouse some 90 a great place for a concert, The Light is truly magnificent. imagined them as roaring monsters or huge metres above. It is made from natural we settled for the music of Built in 1859 from granite hewn dragons of the deep. Remember: you need granite. the waves on the rocks, and on the island, it rises 55 metres and its to keep a minimum 500m clearance of The isolation of The Prom adds to its the symphony of gulls and natural colour glows an earthy red in the oil rigs, but the roar they make doesn’t appeal. It’s a fair trip by land, and with the eagles. the afternoon light. Like Green Cape, encourage you to go much closer anyway. track now closed to traffic, there’s an 18 The nearby islands of the lighthouse keeper’s residence is now The wind continued from the east as kilometre walk to the aforesaid lighthouse. Redondo and Citadel are available for holiday accommodation. Gabo we headed into an idyllic day’s sail. Blue But the rock formations and wildlife make equally imposing - steep and is a light plane flight from Merimbula or sky, calm seas and about 15 knots from Mallacoota, which has a healthy abalone the absolute right direction for gentleman and recreational fishing industry, but access sailors. It was still two hours on and to the sea only from a beach-launching site. two off, with most of us sleeping lightly Meantime, the sun was getting low as we throughout the day. And this leg gave us Above photos: The flames of sailed east into open ocean. The area from plenty of reason to appreciate how well the a Bass Strait oil rig provided a Cape Howe forms the Wilderness Coast Bluewater 400 performs as a cruising boat. glowing feature of the night in Victoria, but the lay line to Wilsons All controls lead to the cockpit, where while the “Jesus Rays” radiated Promontory takes you away from the coast. big winches make sail adjustments safe and golden light over the ocean. It is possible to hug the land, however, easy, and there’s an electric winch to take Opposite, top down: Green Cape anchorages are limited. the effort out of heavy tasks. The boat has fisherman; (L-R) Jamie, Richard Gourmet food was scoffed with a certainly done the miles, while the owners and David; Dinner is served; setting sun over the water. It was the most have demonstrated that world cruising is Boyd’s Tower, Eden. picturesque of backdrops for devouring the achievable for the young at heart. Eden Deli roast chicken and homegrown By late afternoon it had clouded over tomatoes. With darkness descending we and the Cliffy Island Light came into view. began our round of watches: two crew for Cliffy Island is a windswept and desolate two hours on watch and two off. The wind place. The old keeper’s quarters seemed 108 tradeaboat.com.au tradeaboat.com.au 109 Above: Skull Rock off Wilsons Promontory. Left, down: Approaching Wilsons Promontory lighthouse at the most southerly tip of the Australian mainland; Passing Cape Howe. Below: Seabird at Queenscliff. into Port Welshpool. Lazing along with motor running and The stay in Oberon Bay gave the autopilot steering, we saw the scenery time for reflection of life aboard change slowly. But down below, dozens a cruising yacht and many good of dolphins and, above, Pacific gulls and yarns were told.
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