Neighbourhoods & Islands

NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS

Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade (p95 ) Marvel at Hong Kong Island’s nightly skyscraper light show. The Peak Tram ( p78 ; see also p283 ) Hold on tight for a steep ascent. The Peak ( p78 ) Admire the views on a walk around Victoria Peak’s cooler climes. The Star Ferry ( p91 ; see also p273 ) Still the single best and still the best-value Hong Kong experience. Hong Kong Wetland Park ( p107 ) Skyscrapers at your back, serenity and nature in front. Hiking on Lantau ( p134 ; see also p226 ) You may not see a soul on Lantau’s wild ridges and coastal paths. A seafood ramble on Lamma ( p131 ) Build an appetite on a leafy, traffic-free perambulation on low-rise Lamma Island. Tian Tan Buddha ( p137 ) For a cost-free superlative. NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS Sai Kung

Think of Hong Kong as being divided into four Chau Po Kau Pei main areas: Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, the ’Think of Hong Kong as Lam Chau Lei Yue Mun Ng Fan Siu Sai Wan New Territories and the Outlying Islands. being divided into four Back Shek O Dragon's Yau Tong

The beating commercial and social heart of Kei Wan Shau Chai Wan

Hong Kong lies in the first two of these areas – main areas: Hong Kong Hill Buffalo (p82)

the skyscraper-clad northern edge of Hong STANLEY Stanley Tong Tong Kwun Island, Kowloon, the Stanley Peninsula

Kong Island and the busy commercial and resi- To ISLAND Yuen Yuen Chau Kok Shek (pp54–5) San Hong Kong HONG KONG dential district of Kowloon – which face each Island

New Territories and the Po Kong City (pp88–9)

other across Victoria Harbour. Most of the mu- Wong KOWLOON Kowloon Tai Sin Tai Kok Fu Hom Victoria Lok Harbour Chung Outlying Islands’. Hill Tin Tin

seums, galleries and other places occupy either Sha Shouson Tai Island Middle the northern side of Hong Kong Island or the Wai Yat Yat Yau Ngan Chau Tsuen Tsuen Chuk Hang

southern tip of the Kowloon Peninsula. Beyond these heavily built-up areas, things thin out. Wong Valley Valley Happy Kip Tai Po Tai Mel Shek (p124)

The land beyond this urban hub, most of it in the New Territories and the Outlying Islands, is SHA TIN Po generally far more sparsely populated and offers space, greenery and wilderness in abundance, Pai Shui Sham Chau Ap Lei (p82) Ap Lei (p121) something that surprises and delights many first-time visitors. PO TAI ABERDEEN This chapter begins in Central on the northern side of Hong Kong Island. As its name im- Aberdeen Luk plies, this district is where much of what happens (or is decided) in Hong Kong takes place; Chau Town Town Island Kennedy Tsuen Wan Wan Tsuen

come here for business, sightseeing, umpteen transport options, and entertainment in the Lan Magazine Kwai Fong and Soho nightlife districts. Lamma Bay To the west and contiguous to Central is more traditional Sheung Wan, which manages to Sandy & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS (p105)

retain the feel of pre-war Hong Kong in parts. Rising above Central are the Mid-Levels residential Yi (p132) Tsing LAMMA

area and the Peak, home to the rich, the famous and the indefatigable Peak Tram. To the east TSUEN WAN West Lamma of Central are Admiralty, not much more than a cluster of office towers, hotels and shopping Channel centres these days but still an important transport hub; Wan Chai, a seedy red-light district during the Vietnam War but now a popular entertainment area; and Causeway Bay, the most Chau popular shopping district on Hong Kong Island. Kung To Peng On the southern edge of the island are small popular seaside towns, including Stanley – with Chau its fashionable restaurants, cafés and famous market – and Aberdeen, Hong Kong’s original (p147) PENG CHAU Chau

settlement, where you can ride in a sampan (motorised launch) around the harbour or visit Cheung Chau (p143) nearby Ocean Park, Hong Kong’s home-grown amusement and theme park. Hei Ling

North of Hong Kong Island and across Victoria Harbour is Kowloon – its epicentre is the shop- CHEUNG CHAU ping and entertainment district Tsim Sha Tsui. To the east are Tsim Sha Tsui East and Hung Hom, awash with hotels and museums. North of Tsim Sha Tsui are the working-class areas of Yau Ma Tei –

where you’ll find pawnshops, outdoor markets, Chinese pharmacies, mahjong parlours and other Chi Ma Wan Peninsula retailers plying their time-honoured trades – and Mong Kok, a somewhat seedy district of street East markets and brothels. Beyond are the districts of so-called New Kowloon, containing everything Brother

from cheap computers to Hong Kong’s largest temple complex, Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin. Shek The New Territories, once Hong Kong’s country playground, is today a mixed bag of housing Kwu Chau Lung Hang Wong

estates and some surprisingly unspoiled rural areas and country parks. The area’s New Towns West are worth visiting for their temples, monasteries and/or museums hidden somewhere below Brother all the skyscrapers. Don’t miss the more tranquil areas either: old walled villages, mountains, important wetlands, forested nature reserves; and the idyllic Sai Kung Peninsula. (p136) LANTAU LANTAU Lap The Hong Kong archipelago counts hundreds of islands, most uninhabited. Among the so- Kok Chek called Outlying Islands accessible on a day trip from Hong Kong Island are: Cheung Chau, with its traditional village and fishing fleet; Lamma, celebrated for its restaurants and easy country walks; Lantau, the largest island of all, with excellent beaches and country trails; little Peng Ping

Chau, laid-back and something of a shopping mecca; Ma Wan and Tsing Yi, the ‘anchors’ for Ngong the two colossal bridges linking Lantau with the New Territories; Tung Lung Chau, with the remains of a 300-year-old fort; and Po Toi, a haven for seafood lovers. The Transport boxes in this chapter provide quick reference for Mass Transit Rail (MTR), Kowloon- Canton Railway (KCR), Light Rail and bus stations, ferry piers and tram stops in each district. See further details in the Transport chapter, and for suggestions on the best maps and plans, see p295 . 46 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS ITINERARY BUILDER 49

( p212 ) ( p213 ) ( p209 ) ( p216 )

( p211 ) ( p209 ) ( p216 ) ( p211 ) ( p212 ) ( p208 ) ( p208 ) ( p208 ) ( p212 ) ( p214 ) ( p212 ) Chinatown Aqua Spirit China Beach Club Drop Club 71 Rice Bar

( p201 )

( p182 )

Cloudnine ( p184 ) Balalaika ( p189 ) ( p197 ) ( p199 ) ( p182 ) ( p183 ) Champagne Bar ( p195 ) ( p194 ) ( p199 ) ( p182 ) ( p192 ) ( p178 ) ( p187 ) ( p191 ) ( p197 ) ( p177 ) Kin’s Kitchen Nobu Ming Court Sun Keung Kee Roasted The Duke Restaurant Honeymoon Dessert CaféPanda Stoep Restaurant Yun Fu Da Ping Huo Lung King Heen Leung Hing Chiu Restaurant Sichuan Cuisine Sichuan Dawn Dusk Till

Korea House Barco Forum

( p163 ) Hutong ( p164 ) ( p96 ) ( p162 )

( p156 ) ( p166 ) ( p168 ) ( p168 ) Restaurant ( p168 ) ( p165 ) ( p170 ) ( p162 ) ( p170 ) ( p70 ) The Landmark IFC Mall Walter Ma Harbour City Street Temple Night Market Golden Computer Golden Rainbow Seafood Island Society Bar Hollywood Rd Hollywood ( p58 )

Alan Chan Wah Tsui

Cat St Cat ( p58 ) Walk Shopping Festival ( p99 ) Ristorante Gaia Times Square Times Island Beverley Island

( p133 ) Curio Alley Curio

( p70 )

( p91 ) ( p71 ) ( p71 )

( p75 ) ( p79 ) Goose & Seafood Poets Teahouse ( p137 ) ( p102 ) ( p106 )

( p95 ) ( p101 ) ( p67 ) ( p107 ) ( p145 ) HOW TO USE THIS TABLE THIS USE TO HOW worth to plan a day’s allows you table below The Simply of the city. of activities any area in the corresponding match from then mix and and to explore, you wish select which area of highlight a well-known represents in each cell first item your day. The listings to build off-the-beaten-track gems. more are the other items while the area, ( p126 ) Sai Kung Peninsula Sai Kung Peninsula Mo Shan Tai Lantau Peak Graham St Market Lan Kwai Fong & Happy Valley East Sha Tsui Tsim Kowloon Walled City Park Park ( p61 ) ( p123 ) Man Wa Lane ( p77 )

Hong Kong Wetland Promenade Promenade Kowloon Park Park Kowloon ( p100 ) ( p95 ) ( p125 ) Western Market Western ( p96 ) ( p90 ) Victoria Park Park Victoria ( p77 ) Hong Kong Zoological & Shop Tea Lok Cha ( p106 )

( p67 ) ( p35 ) ( p98 ) ( p144 ) Pak Tai Temple Temple Tai Pak Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum Hau Temple Tin Museum Uk Sam Tung Hong Kong Science Museum Hong Kong Monetary AuthorityHong Kong Monetary Information Centre Hung Shing Temple Hung Shing Temple Lo So Shing Beach

Mun Lei Yue Sen Museum Dr Sun Yat Hanart TZ Gallery TZ Hanart Chow Seafood ( p131 )

Racecourse

Po St Bird Garden Yuen Centre ( p64 ) ( p64 ) ( p102 ) ( p67 ) ( p53 ) ( p70 ) ( p119 ) ( p102 ) St Possession

( p73 ) ( p91 ) ( p98 ) ( p135 ) Hong Kong Museum of History ( p58 )

( p60 ) ( p71 ) ( p105 ) Tour Chinese University of Hong Kong Art Museum ( p90 ) Tai Sin Temple Sin Temple Tai Heritage Trail ( p142 ) ( p125 ) ( p91 ) Institute Tau Lung Yeuk Ngong Ping Yuen Yuen Yuen Yuen Sik Sik Yuen Wong Sik Sik Yuen Hong Kong Convention & Racecourse Sha Tin Kong Heritage Hong Museum Ping Shan Tai Museum Hong Kong of Medical Sciences Man Mo Temple Exhibition Centre Exhibition Chi Lin Nunnery Former KCR Clock Hong Kong Museum of Art Hongkong & Shanghai Cheung Chau Village Cheung Chau Walking Hometown Morocco’s Bar & Restaurant

New Kowloon Restaurant

Trail Lamma Family The Outlying Islands

Mong Kok, Nathan Road Tower Nathan Hong Kong Peninsula Creations Bank Building New Territories & Flower Market Noonday Gun Bauhinia Noonday Golden Sha Tsui Tsim Causeway Bay Central ACTIVITIES Sightseeing Monuments & Temples Galleries, Museums, Outdoors Shopping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Yau Ma Tei & Ma Tei Yau Wan Chai & the Mid-Levels Queen’s Road West Sheung Wan & Legislative Council Building Soho Bank of China Buildings Botanical Gardens Jade Market Jade

Temples Arcade Incense Shops AREA AREA ITINERARY BUILDER BUILDER ITINERARY attractions area into a fairly tight concentrated Kong are in Hong the sights, activitiesMost of and drinking and eating comprising northern of the out into the spread these, things Kowloon. Beyond and the tip of Kong Island edge of Hong Outlying Islands. and the Kong Island, the New Territories less built-up expanses of Hong larger and generally 48 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS ITINERARY BUILDER lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS HONG KONG SPECIAL ADMINISTRATIVE REGION (SAR) 51 29 S E A Tung C H I N A S O U T H Ping Chau Tai (Mirs Bay) Wan Long Tai Pang Wan Channel) Chek Chau Kong Hau (Middle Sai Wan Tau Pai Ham Tin Chau Basalt Island Port Tap Mun Island Ko Lau Wan Ko Lau Wan Tai Tai Long 53 Nai High Chau Wong Island Reservoir Chek Keng Wan Sheun Leung Country Park See Sai Kung East Pak Chau Bluff 52 Island Shek Wong Kat O & Tam Au Tam Island Port Island 55 Park 5 Crescent 0 10 km miles 10 0 5.0 0 Hoi Ha Chau Country Parks Island Ha Hoi 25 Tai Tau Crooked Wan Marine 47 Chau Kau Sai Chau Chung Chong Lai Chi Sai Kung Ha Peninsula Wan Pak Tam Pak Tam Lang Tiu Chung Island Bay Tung Shelter Tai Tai 32 Yan Tong Chau 44 Lung Chau Clearwater Au Mun Country Park Sai Kung West Sha Pak Chau Tin Ha Shan (273m) Sham Island Chung Double Chau 11 Port Peak Tau Kat Kiu Tsui (344m) Shelter 28 Chau 27 Cham O Hoi High Junk Trio Beach 18 14 Sung Kong Hau Park Hang Park Sai Tolo Habe Country Haven Kung Channel Plover Cove Clearwater Po Big

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Fan Lau Lantau Channel To Macau To (35km) HONG KONG SPECIAL ADMINISTRATIVE REGION (SAR) (SAR) REGION ADMINISTRATIVE SPECIAL KONG HONG 50 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS HONG KONG SPECIAL ADMINISTRATIVE REGION (SAR) lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS HONG KONG ISLAND 53 doyley HONG KONG IN A DAY Introduction High-rises peaks overlooking and mountain a harbour thick with ferries is a wealth of and junks, Hong Kong coupled with the familiaritycultural delights of the Western world. – start Sha Tsui here Tsim facing the sparkling On the southern tip of Kowloon, high-rises island, this is the perfect of Hong Kong start on the timeless Star and end place for your day. Jump while enjoying the and head over to the island Ferry harbour views. Island by Bus – a cheap thrill ride a bus from Central heading towards Stanley. This Take hair-raising ride of gives you a cheap tour of much the island. Stanley Market – bargain souvenirs Although touristy, Stanley Market place for is a great Wander along the waterfrontsouvenirs. tire when you of the crowds, then jump back on a bus to Central. Victoria – spectacular Peak view Tram and enjoy the Walk from Central to the Peak most spectacular city and view over Hong Kong angle takeKowloon. For a different the bus back down, then take and enjoy a stroll in the Central area the city ambience. Kowloon – the cultural heart As the day moves on, Kowloon becomes a vibrant mix of the MTR neon and mesmerisingcoloured markets. Take to Mong Kok and head south. Nathan Rd is the main strip, contain the hidden delights. but the backstreets Not Exhausted Yet? Ride electronics a sampan in Aberdeen; go bargain shopping in Mong Kok; enjoy a change of pace on Lamma Island; lose a fortune in Macau; or find your spiritual side at the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island. of public and private space and to break space and to break of public and private architecture. bank the mould of previous floor is public space, which ground The the without entering people can traverse Map p56 Map

Above Central Mid-Levels the residential Above The best way to view Central is from a Star Though very much open to debate, Central’s to debate, open much Though very Central’s west to going main thoroughfares Hongkong & Shanghai Bank Build- The The district was originally named Victoria, Victoria, named was originally The district Ferry as it crosses the harbour from Kowloon. Ferry ‘capital’ of the territory, it has been called it has been called the territory, ‘capital’of Central WWII. at least since cling to steep, jungle-clad hill sides; above to the super- home these Victoria Peak, soars to look back place from which and a great rich down on Central. Garden Rd to the east, somewhere limits are between and Wing the disused Central Market On Centre to the west, Caine Rd and the Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens to the to the north. south, and the harbour Connaught Rd Central,east are Des Voeux Rd Central and Queen’s Rd Central. Important running (roughly) south (ie uphill) streets Rd, Ice House Garden from the harbour are St. St and Pottinger St, Pedder BANK HONGKONG & SHANGHAI (HSBC) BUILDING 1 Queen’s Rd Central; MTR Central (exit K) Jackson the statue of Sir Thomas Fittingly, at the stun- is gazing in Statue Square ning headquarters now HSBC of what is (formerly the Hongkong & Shanghai Bank) headquarters, designed by British archi- two in 1985. The Sir Norman Foster tect lions guarding the bank’s main bronze by British sculp- designed entrance were tor WW Wagstaff to mark the opening of headquarters in 1935; the bank’s previous – to the Stephen known as the lions are two left as you face them – and Stitt, after Japanese The bank employees of the time. practice during the used the lions as target occupation; you can still see bullet holes on Stitt. sophis- of precision, ing is a masterpiece And why not? It tication and innovation. building was the world’s most expensive (it cost upward of US$1 billion) when it building reflects opened in 1985. The areas Sir Norman’s wish to create architect scrapers can be quite magnificent, especially at especially magnificent, quite be can scrapers night put on a lightshow. when they There’s civic build- historical of assortment also an parks and gardens. ings, churches who had ascended sovereign the British after naval a before just two years to the throne Pos- the British flag at hoisted landing party But as the in 1841. here session of Point west F4 F4 F2 F2 F2 B4 C3 C3 G4 G3 G5 G3 G2 D2 D3 D4 48 49 50 54 45 51 43 47 52 53 55 44 46 56 42 . It’s sky- ...... ( p37 ) ) ...... ᮑῖ೦ ☳Ꭸ ܗᳫ࡛䰶㩉䴦࡛䰶 ...... ( ...... 䋑侀᳗⒬㽓⌆݀ⴒ催⠒໿⧗จ 㽓䉶㷨⍠催⠒໿⧗㿧㏈จ ໻㕢ⴷ儮จ ໻ሒㆸⱑ᱂⧚೦䋑侀᳗ᮙ㟡 ⱑ≭▇䴦ᑈᮙ㟡佭␃હ⠒໿⧗᳗ ⱑ≭☷䘞㠛᳗ ⏙∈☷催⠒໿⧗䛝ᴥׅῖ䚼 ໻ሒㆸ∈Ϟ⌏ࢩЁᖗ ቃ䭔݀ⴒ俢㸧ᅌ᷵ 咗⷇∈Ϟ⌏ࢩЁᖗ 㽓䉶䌸ᕥⱑ᱂⧚ූ Jockey Kau Club Public Sai Chau Course Golf Sai Kung Ho Chung Driving Range Driving Kung Ho Chung Sai Tai Mei Tuk Fish Farm Tai Mei Tuk Water Sports Centre Centre Mei Tuk Water Sports Tai Public Riding Mun School Tuen SLEEPING (pp264–5) Bradbury Hall Wong Shek Water Sports Centre Centre Sports Water Shek Wong Bradbury Lodge Pak Sha O Hostel O Hostel Pak Sha Hong Kong Golf Kong Club(Fanling)Hong Hebe Haven Yacht Club Sze Lok Yuen Hostel Sze Lok Yuen Hostel

Yuen Long Theatre Yuen SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp222–31) Club &Country Clearwater Bay Golf ENTERTAINMENT (p219) Theatre Tsing Kwai F5 F6 F4 F2 E3 E3 E2 E3 B3 C3 C3 C2 C3 A2 A2 G3 G5 H1 D3 D3 D2 D2 D4 27 28 37 35 21 24 19 36 31 20 23 41 34 39 30 25 32 29 22 26 38 40 33 totally different character to that of the to that of character totally different ... .(see 20) ...... As Hong Kong’s business centre, Central centre, Hong Kong’s business As ...... (pp195–201) ...... ping, taking care of errands, en route to the errands, en route of ping, taking care Lan of Kwai Fong and and restaurants bars the Airport off or boarding or getting Soho, Express. has some impressive architecture architecture has some impressive ...... ≭⬄䋑侀จ ཭⊩ᇎ ཭⊩ᇎ唠㦰 ...... 䡔㎮☷ ...... ໽ৢᒳ ໽ৢᒳ ᵅ啡⌆⚂ৄ ໾ᒳ ; ໻ᾂ㧃䜦ῧ ...... Ѳ⌆ᒮ᠓ ᮄ⓶㿬 It is where you’ll find the ex-governor’s mansion, the you’ll find the ex-governor’s It is where 㘚⏶੪ଵᓇ p156 ...... ṻḤᆼ◥Ꮧ ሣቅ᭛⠽ᕥ Ϟや⇥֫᭛⠽仼啡䑡丁᭛⠽ᕥ ᯢ㿬⍋冂䜦ᆊ 㛑㿬 ܿ䛝㾔䷇সᒳ ቃ䭔໻᳗ූ ᖴ䁴㤊ᑻ⋄೟㦰 ᇣⱑ収令ᓇ Ming Kee Seafood Restaurant Restaurant Seafood Kee Ming Nang Kee Goose Restaurant Nang Kee Goose New Hon Kee Pak Heung Kwun Yum Temple Wing Wah Tai Ng Tung Chai Waterfall Ping Kong ...... Trail Heritage Shan Ping Sha Tin Racecourse FolkSheung Yiu Museum Shui TauTsuen...... Silverstrand Beach Miu Tai Temple Lung Yeuk Tau Yeuk Tau Heritage Lung Trail Monastery Fat Miu Temple Hau Tin Temple Hau Tin Miu Fat Monastery Monastery Fat Miu Tuen Mun Town Hall Hall Mun Town Tuen Tung Lung Fort Lung Tung Cafe Lagoon EATING Asian Kitchen Chung Shing Thai Restaurant Egret Restaurant Little ; Shopping F3 F2 E4 E3 E3 E4 F3 F4 F5 E2 E2 E2 B3 G3 D4 D1 D3 D3 3 4 6 7 8 9 p176 5 1 2 18 14 11 17 13 12 10 15 16 .(see 9) .. – sightseeing, shop- ...... ; Eating ...... 㫀◯ҭ仼䴦ᵒ㾔 ...... (Map p56 ) ...... p205 ...... ㉝ᎎ㸫Ꮦ ...... 佭␃⾥ᡔ໻ᅌ ঢ়ᝊೡ ᳯ໿⷇ 佭␃Ё᭛໻ᅌ᭛⠽仼 ⏙∈☷ϔ☬ঞѠ☬ ......

p250

⤙ᄤ᳗㞾✊ᬭ㚆Ёᖗ 䴦᎐ᑍ㎮㿾ᅶЁᖗ 㕙␪ᮙᅶ䃂䀶ঞ᳡ࢭЁᖗ ⨾௝⚜䝿䰶㽓䉶䚞䞢݀೦䘞ᅶЁᖗ 㨀ԯᇎ 佭␃Ё᭛໻ᅌ ௝䘧⧚䖆จᱼỡ⠽೦ ᵫᴥ䀅丬‍ 㠍☷䚞䞢݀೦䘞ᅶЁᖗ ජ䭔䚞䞢݀೦䘞ᅶЁᖗ Museum Museum Technology One of the best ways to see the northern side of the island is to jump on one of the green the green best ways to see the jump on one of the island is to One of northern side of the Hong Kong’s most importantHong Kong’s is Central, district Kong pumping Hong heart of the commercial

Lions Nature Education Centre INFORMATION Centre Visitors Lantau Link Lo Wu HKTB Centre Lo Wu Plover Country Park Cove Centre Visitor Plover Princess Margaret HospitalPrincess Sai Kung Country Park Visitor Centre Park Country Sai KungVisitor Centre Park Country Visitor Shing Mun SIGHTS10,000Monastery Buddhas Rock Amah (pp104–49) Chinese University of HongChinese Kong Chinese University of Art HongChinese Kong ChungChing Temple Clearwater Bay First &Second Bay First Clearwater Beaches Kadoorie Farm & BotanicKadoorie Garden Hong Kong University & of Science Hong Kong Fung Ying Sin Temple Fung Ying Fanling Market Kat Hing Wai Kat Hing Wai Tree Wishing Tsuen Lam HONG KONG SPECIAL ADMINISTRATIVE REGION (SAR) HONG KONG SPECIAL ADMINISTRATIVE HONG KONG ISLAND ISLAND KONG HONG 52 All visitors to Hong Kong inevitablyAll visitors pass through Central Drinking & Nightlife north. The coast is dotted with fine beaches – including those at Big Wave Bay, Deep – including those Water with fine beaches at Big Wave north. The coast is dotted O, Stanley clean enough is Bay, and Repulse the water to swim. Shek Bay – where CENTRAL double-decker trams that trundle between Kennedy Town in the west and Shau Kei Wan in Kei west and Shau Town in the trams that trundle between Kennedy double-decker Kong Island has a Hong of the east. The southern side the original horse-racing track and a host of other places that define Hong Kong’s character. other places that define Hong Kong’s track and a host of the original horse-racing to the west and Causeway Bay east. to the districts, shopping Legislative the premier Council and High Court, the territory’s stock exchange, spicuously here. Most of the region’s major businesses, government offices, many top-end hotels businesses, government major the region’s of Most spicuously here. found between Central are neighbourhoods residential and exclusive areas nightlife and restaurants, away on the northern side of the island. Hong Kong counts its money and spends much of it con- of spends much Kong counts its money and the island. Hong northern side of away on the Hong Kong Island remains every bit as important when Britain as the territory to it claimed Island remains Hong Kong Hong of Its importance in 1841. centre and economic political the historical, as Empire for the and about total area land the territory’s 7% of up just over its size (making Kong far outweighs been preserved Hong Kong monuments have old Though its population). here, a few a fifth of dazzling modernity. of a metropolis Island is overwhelmingly Sleeping lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS HONG KONG ISLAND lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS HONG KONG ISLAND 55 Hang Hau Tseng Tseng Kwan O Tai Chau Tau Chau Bay Chau Cape Junk Kau Pei Ng Fan Collinson Shek O Headland

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Tai Hang Tai 31

r 27 18

o Middle

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i Hau Tin

r South

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r Lookout

s t e So Kon s

a Jardine's

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d (439m) Wan Chai

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Tsui n Sha s Hill Tsui Tsui e ...... Tsim Tsim

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b Ocean

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n 14 i 15 5 a The Peak ...... Soho C Park ...... 18) (see Country Aberdeen 23 ......

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6 u F ˇ»˚ ——˜–ø «„¯‡˙ m k East Lamma Channel Po Luk SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp222–31) Palace Ice Cityplaza East End Brewery Food Republic Min Nan Restaurant Restaurant Nan Min Deep Water Bay Golf Club Golf Bay WaterDeep Koh-i-Noor ENTERTAINMENT (p218) Sunbeam Theatre DRINKING (p210) Cafe Einstein...... Peak Lookout Lookout Peak Pearl on the Peak ...... 15) (see Restaurant Verandah Chau Bay Lamma Town Town Sandy Kennedy F2 F2 E2 E2 F2 F2 E4 E4 E4 E4 F2 F2 F2 B3 B3 B2 B3 B3 C3 C3 C3 C3 C3 G2 G2 G3 G2 D4 D4 D3 D3 D3 D3 D3 3 4 7 9 2 6 5 8 Luk 1 Wan Chau 18 19 20 21 10 14 15 (269m) 11 17 13 12 16 (353m)

Mt Davis

d ...... R

......

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i Mt Stenhouse Pak

r Kok ...... o

t Shan c

i ...... (138m) Pak Kok V ...... DN˚ ...... Wan ...... (see 9) ...... (see 10) Long ...... Ha Mei Tit Sha ˇª‚ · W ...... `_˛ †'˛ ^ ‹ ß Æt ” ...... Green Island ^R ^R \¸ fi ‡ ˚fl ˚fl ...... ØL fl† †'˛ ^ Tsuen Tsuen Power Station Pak Kok ...... «„ ¯‡ ˙ Yung Shue Wan

Bay Sandy Channel Lamma West Wan Chai p65 Wan Mid-Levels p77 Mid-Levels Aberdeen p82 Aberdeen p63 Admiralty p74 Bay Causeway Hong Kong p56 Central & Soho p68 Fong Lan Kwai Sheung Wan p70 Stanley p82 —¨ A N¸ W ” ¨…·– L` ˇª‚ · Wˆ —g†'˛ ^ ˇª‚ º Y`ˇ ^ ˇª‚ ”£• †'˛ ^ ˆ´łºHÆt” ˆ´łºHÆt” ˇª‚ … ——˜ Chinese CuisineTraining Institute Peak Tower...... Peak Police Museum INFORMATION Hospital...... Adventist Peak Galleria...... Sam Ka Tsuen Typhoon Shelter Cafe Deco ...... (see 14) Cococabana Law Uk Folk Museum Folk Uk Law Art & Museum Gallery University Matilda International Hospital Hospital International Matilda Queen Mary Hospital Mary Hospital Queen Kwun Yam Shrine Home Management Centre Lover's Rock Rock Lover's SHOPPING (p165) Cityplaza EATING (pp176–201) Beira Rio Wine Bar & Grill...... Hong Kong ArchiveFilm SIGHTS (pp52–149) Hong Kong University Longevity Bridge Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence Map Publication Centre Centre Publication Map Madame Tussuad s...... Madame Tussuad (see 15) Ocean Park ...... The Repulse Bay MAP INDEX MAP INDEX To Outlying To Islands; Macau HONG KONG ISLAND ISLAND KONG HONG 54 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS HONG KONG ISLAND lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 0 300 m CENTRAL HONG KONG 0 0.2 miles CENTRAL HONG KONG INFORMATION Jardine House ᗵ੠໻ᒜ ...... 30 C3 City Hall Maxim's Palace American Chamber of Commerce Jubilee International Tour Centre ...... (see 25) Pier 1 ໻᳗ූ㕢ᖗⱛᆂ 78 1 31 79 㕢೟ଚ᳗ ...... D3 䡔⽻೟䱯ᮙ䘞...... B2 H One ...... (see 51) Pier 2 Victoria 60 Pier 3 80 Canadian Consulate Legislative Council Building Habibi...... A2 57 Harbour 2 61 Pier 4 81 ࡴᣓ໻䷬џ仼 ...... B2 ゟ⊩᳗໻ῧ...... 32 C3 Lin Heung Tea House 㫂佭㤊ῧ... A2 Government Fina Pier 5 82 Cheung Kong Centre Old Bank of China Building Lung King Heen 啡᱃䒦...... (see 67) Pier nce S 䭋∳䲚೬Ёᖗ ...... 3 C4 33 Oliver Delicatessen...... 62 C3 t M Pier 6 㟞Ё೟䡔㸠໻ॺ...... C3 Pier R an C d Kw Pier 7 New Star Chinese General Chamber of Commerce One International Finance Centre Pierre ...... (see 68) on on na g 76 Ferry Pier ug St 佭␃Ё㧃㐑ଚ᳗...... 4 B2 (One IFC) .....34 B2 Shalom Grill...... 63 B2 Hillier St ೟䱯䞥㵡Ёᖗϔᳳ ht 8 Rd Zuma ...... (see 54) C Chinese Manufacturers' Association of SAR Government Headquarters en St tr 35 al Hong Kong ᬓᑰ㐑䚼...... B4 Man Wa La 67 W Rumsey St ENTERTAINMENT (p217) ing 75 37 佭␃Ё㧃ᒴଚ㙃ড়᳗ ...... (see 27) St John's Cathedral 㘪㋘㗄ᑻූ ...36 C4 Lok St Gilman Central Bo 12 Palace IFC Cinema ...... (see 51) S nh 77 City Hall Public Library Two International Finance Centre tra am 71 nd 27 63 ...... (see 24) 37 50 ໻᳗ූ೪᳌仼 (Two IFC) ೟䱯䞥㵡ЁᖗѠᳳ .... C2 Wing Wo St Tramway DRINKING (pp205–8) 31 34 Hong Kong Airport Community Advice Bureau...... 5 A2 g Kut St MTR World Wide Fund for Nature Hong Kong 65 Express Station Drake International...... 6 B3 Captain's Bar ...... (see 68) Kau U 13 Win The H Man Cheon Office 64 t ar Fong Centre S bo 38 MO Bar...... (see 54) ia u 51 Dutch Consulate 㥋㰁䷬џ仼...... (see 3) Ϫ⬠㞾✊෎䞥᳗佭␃䕺џ㰩..... C4 G Gilman's Bazaar or r St oug 61 ict V g Red Bar ...... (see 37) h V iew General Post Office 䛉ᬓ㐑ሔ...... 7 C2 St 10 Jubilee St t 66 S 52 S Former t t SHOPPING (pp156–63) t 72 S Hong Kong Consumer Council n Gage St Exchange SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp222–31) e S Central u e l Square i 8 39 rd e Market Y ⍜䊏㗙ྨવ᳗ ...... A1 Bape Store ...... B3 e 43 e 5 St Star Essential Chinese Language Centre bH P Man Yee La n C A t 74 2 a o 45 Ferry Hong Kong Labour Department Blanc de Chine...... 40 B3 o S 4 nn 7 ll 46 M a Pier ...... 64 A2 y ff Pl u 41 Џ⌕⓶䁲 w a ac gh ࢲᎹ㕆 ...... (see 8) Bloomsbury Books ...... B3 l Pottinger 42 e t o t tz 60 Li Yuen Pure Fitness ...... 65 B2 o S u St West d G Pedestrian 30 Edinburgh HSBC ः䈤䡔㸠 ...... 9 D3 Bookazine ...... (see 56) Escalator Douglas St S 22 am ta h R 49 Connaught Memorial Pl 10 Bossini ...... 42 B2 u a d IT.Fans ...... A2 n r Garden Gardens Lun SLEEPING (pp250–2) to G g Caravan...... 43 A2 n Ez Chiung Lung St t Wu Japanese Consulate ᮹ᴀ䷬џ仼 .(see 2) Soho ra's S i 66 La W S Queen's Rd Central 44 25 Rd Eden...... A2 S t 24 28 Christie's ...... (see 58) t e a TheatreCentral La Wo n Macau Government Tourist Office W ll l r Four Seasons Hotel ...... 67 B2 y in e 40 e 68 44 ಯᄷ䜦ᑫ n y d 18 C Cigarro...... B3 On Lag Gloucester Chater Rd on e d d .(see 57) t e nau Prince of ▇䭔⡍߹㸠ᬓऔᬓᑰᮙ䘞ሔ h o P Tower g Mandarin Oriental n S 54 ht a t D R Dymocks...... (see 34) Jackson Rd 26 d Wales Building 11 Shelley St m e C Martinizing...... A4 68 S 70 s 56 ent 45 ᭛㧃ᵅᮍ䜦ᑫ...... C3 Lan t 58 69 ra Dymocks...... C2 Victoria V l

S New Furama Dry-Cleaning Chancery o Statue 69 Prison Kwai Wa Av t 48 e 62 Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong...... C3 d 9 H Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop Old Bailey St u Square L a La R Fong x Club St am rc ᮄᆠ呫㧃ђ⋫᳝䰤݀ৌ ...... (see 1) 70 To Jamia be o Tim The Landmark Mandarin Oriental. B3 t R 32 Chater t u Dairy Farm 59 d C h r T 12 ⽣㣫ූ...... (see 51) Mosque C o 53 73 t entr t i PCCW i.Shop...... A2

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS S & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS n Garden m ai Building 39 al St R 46

n h e 23 t Foot ...... A2

e ce H 6 us 1 d M 13 u Murray Rd Post Office ...... A2 R I o o e 䛉ሔ TRANSPORT (pp269–86)

d b u H 55 i r 33 Government Publications Office s e 29 A e 14

A Ic Drake St v St John's Building 㘪㋘㗄໻ᒜ...... C4 71 Aero International ...... A2

S 41 e

Duddell St Bank St 47

t 15 ᬓᑰߞ⠽䢋ଂ㰩...... C4 US Consulate 㕢೟䷬џ仼...... B4 d Air New Zealand ᮄ㽓㰁㟾ぎ..... (see 30) ower Harvey Nichols...... (see 54) R L A 3 Ruth's Chris t 11 t 20 S r lb British Airways 㣅೟㟾ぎ݀ৌ.... (see 30) e U Battery Steakhouse HMV...... 48 B3 b p e r l p r 16 Lippo a SIGHTS (pp52–61) e t 35 19 Tramway A Path m Central Bus Terminus r Hong Kong Book Centre r Centre a Admiralty e 21 R T Bank of China Tower ow A d Ё⪄Ꮘ຿㐑キ...... 72 B2 L l Queensway 佭␃೪᳌᭛݋᳝䰤݀ৌ...... 49 B3 y b 16 al er Government 36 Flagstaff House Plaza Ё೟䡔㸠໻ॺ ...... C4 e t Citibank United IFC Mall...... 50 C2 China Eastern/China Southern Airlines en R House Museum of High Gl d Plaza Court Centre Botanical Gardens Greenhouses 73 Murray Tea Ware IFC Mall...... 51 B2 Ё೟ᵅᮍ㟾ぎ/ਛ࿡ධᣇ⥶ⓨ.... B3 15 17 Rd Building 佭␃ࢩỡ⠽݀೦⑿ᅸ ...... A4 74 Rob d Indosiam...... 52 A2 China Travel Service Ё೟ᮙ㸠⼒.. B2 in R en 38 r s Hong Kong rd 14 47 D Hong S Admiralty 18 Canossa o y Ga u Cenotaph ੠ᑇ㋔ᗉ⹥...... C3 53 n an tton Tree Kong p Jilian, Lingerie On Wyndham...... A3 China Travel Service (Main Branch) Hospital lb Zoological & Co re 19 R A To Upper Park m Island Pacific Cheung Kong Garden...... C4 d d Botanical Gardens Forsgate 54 75 R e Landmark 㕂ഄᒷจ...... B3 Ё೟ᮙ㸠⼒㐑㸠...... A2 Tram y k a Shangri-La Place y w Conservatory C 20 se a Terminus Court of Final Appeal ㌖ᆽ⊩䰶.... C4 e m o Hotel HONG KONG ISLAND rn K ra Lane Crawford 䗷वԯ...... (see 51) Dragonair ␃啡㟾ぎ ...... (see 77) HONG KONG ISLAND o d P e (1km) T Hong Kong Edward nedy Rd u Conrad R n r Former French Mission Building H n k en t Hong d e a Visual Arts Youde K R Little Misses & Mini Masters ...... (see 56) HKKF Customer Service Centre.. (see 80) l 17 d e d y P Kong (䘧᳗໻ῧ ...... (see 20ڇO R Centre Aviary ࠡ⊩೟ d Liuligongfang ⧝⩗Ꮉ᠓...... (see 48) Hong Kong Express 佭␃ᖿ䘟.... (see 57) Government House...... 21 B4 Lulu Cheung ...... (see 54) New World First Ferry...... 76 C1 Graham St Market ...... 22 A3 Mandarin Oriental Flower & Gift Northwest Airlines 㽓࣫㟾ぎ...... 77 A2 building; from there, escalators rise to the memorial to Hong Kong residents killed 23 Hanart TZ Gallery ⓶䲙䒦...... B3 Shop...... (see 68) Peak Tram Lower Terminus main banking hall. The building is inviting during the two world wars. Due west is Hong Kong City Hall (High Block) Ocean Optical ቅ䷖㑰䒞㐑キ...... (see 14) 24 to enter – not guarded or off limits. Hong the venerable Mandarin Oriental ( p251 ), which 佭␃໻᳗ූ催ᑻ ...... C3 ⍋⋟ⴐ䦵᳝䰤݀ৌ...... 55 C3 Pier 2 (Ferries to Ma Wan) Hong Kong City Hall (Low Block) Kong Chinese, irreverent as always, call the opened in 1963 and is consistently voted Prince's Building ໾ᄤ໻ॺ...... 56 C3 Ѡ㰳⺐丁(ᓔ㚍Ἠ) ...... 78 B1 佭␃໻᳗ූԢᑻ ...... 25 C3 Shanghai Tang Ϟ⍋☬...... (see 40) Pier 3 (Ferries to Discovery Bay) 52-storey glass and aluminium structure the best hotel in the world, and to the east Hong Kong Club Building Shun Tak Centre ֵᖋЁᖗ...... 57 A1 ϝ㰳⺐丁(ᓔᗢ᥊Ἠ) ...... 79 B1 ...... 26 C3 the ‘Robot Building’. the Hong Kong Club Building (1 Jackson Rd), which 佭␃᳗᠔໻ᒜ Sotheby...... (see 55) Pier 4 (Ferries to Lamma) Hong Kong Jockey Club h The Spa at the Four Seasons...... (see 67) ಯ㰳⺐丁(ᓔධਚፉ) ...... 80 B1 It’s worth taking the escalator ( 9am- houses a prestigious club of that name 27 佭␃䋑侀᳗ ...... A2 The Swank ...... 58 B3 Pier 5 (Ferries to Cheung Chau) 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat) to the 3rd that was still not accepting Chinese mem- Hong Kong Monetary Authority ThreeSixty...... (see 54) Ѩ㰳⺐丁(ᓔ㐳ᵮ) ...... 81 C1 Information Centre floor to gaze at the cathedral-like atrium bers until well after WWII. The original Toy Museum ⥽݋仼...... (see 58) Pier 6 (Ferries to Lantau & Peng Chau) 佭␃䞥㵡ㅵ⧚ሔ䃂䀶Ёᖗ ...... (see 37) and the natural light filtering through its club building, a magnificent four-storey Wise Kids ...... (see 56) ݁㰳⺐丁(ᓔᄢᎩጊ෸ဝᵮ)...... 82 C1 Hong Kong Planning & Infrastructure www.izzue.com...... 59 B3 Qantas Airways ▇⌆㟾ぎ...... (see 30) windows. colonial structure, was torn down in 1981 Gallery 28 C3 佭␃㽣ࡗঞ෎ᓎሩ㾑仼 Virgin Atlantic Airways despite public outcry and was replaced Hongkong & Shanghai Bank Building ः EATING (pp176–80) ㎁⦡㟾ぎ...... (see 58) STATUE SQUARE Map p56 with the modern bow-fronted monstrosity 䈤䡔㸠໻ॺ...... 29 C3 Amber...... (see 70) MTR Central (exit K) there now. Statue Square, due south of Star Ferry On the south side of Chater Rd, Statue pier, is divided roughly in half by Charter Square has a collection of fountains and migrant workers on the weekend, espe- The square derives its name from the Rd. In the northern part, reached via a covered outside seating areas; it is best cially Sunday, when it becomes a cacoph- various effigies of British royalty on dis- pedestrian underpass from the pier, is the known in Hong Kong as the meeting place ony of Tagalog, Visayan and Ilocano (see play here that were spirited away by the Cenotaph (Greek for ‘empty tomb’; 1923), a of choice for tens of thousands of Filipino boxed text, p60 ). Japanese during the occupation. Only one 56 57 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com statue actually remains, a bronze likeness of more than 70 mammals and 40 reptiles, Sir Thomas Jackson, a particularly success- and is also one of the world’s leading cen- A CHINESE CURE ALL ful Victorian chief manager of the Hong- tres for the captive breeding of endangered kong & Shanghai Bank. species (there are 16 different species of So you’re feeling a bit peaky. Below par. Liverish even. Why not see if a Chinese herbalist can pep you up? Might we suggest the Good Spring Co on Cochrane St, directly beneath the Escalator? endangered animal being bred here). First for the consultation: you will be asked a few questions, your pulse taken, and your tongue examined to reveal Map p56 The gardens are divided by Albany Rd, MARKETS how balanced your humours are and whether you have too much heat or cold in your constitution. with the plants and aviaries in the area to MTR Central (exit B) According to the prognosis the tonic will very likely be a medicinal tea. This may be a simple herbal infusion, or the east, close to Garden Rd, and most of On the lower reaches west of the 800m-long something containing more exotic ingredients. Some are helpfully described in the window, such as powdered deer’s Central Escalator, which transports pedestrians the animals to the west. The animal dis- horn, monkey’s visceral organs (useful if you need to ‘remove excessive sputum’) and deer’s tail (a marvel if you need through Central and Soho and as far as Con- plays are mostly primates (lemurs, gibbons, to ‘strengthen sinews’ or ‘treat the seminal emission’). duit Rd in the Mid-Levels, you’ll find narrow macaques, orangutans etc); other residents Other ingredients might include desiccated deer’s penis, dinosaur teeth or horse bezoars (gallstone-like balls formed streets containing market stalls and open-air include a jaguar and radiated tortoises. in horses’ stomachs, and the herbalist’s poison antidote of choice). The resulting brew is invariably dark brown, sinister canteens centred on the Graham St Market. The Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical in smell and bitter to taste. It’s a compelling place to go if you want Gardens are at the top (ie southern) end of What’s that you say? You’re not feeling quite so bad after all? to have a close look at the exotic produce Garden Rd. It’s an easy walk from Central, that Hong Kong prides itself in selling and but you can also take bus 3B or 12 from the consuming. Preserved ‘thousand-year’ eggs stop in front of Jardine House on Connaught and Central Plaza in Wan Chai. The asym- 52-storey Towers I and II is given over to and fresh tofu curd scooped still steaming Rd Central or bus 40M from the Central bus metry of the building is puzzling at first the Central bus and minibus terminus; from wooden tubs are just some of the terminus below Exchange Square. The bus glance but is really a simple geometric Tower III is 32 levels high. The stock ex- produce items on display. The squeamish takes you along Upper Albert Rd and Caine exercise. Rising from the ground like a change is located at the main entrance to should stay away; fish are cut lengthwise, Rd on the northern boundary of the gar- cube, it is successively reduced, quarter by Towers I and II. but above the heart so that it continues to dens. Get off in front of Caritas House (Map p77 ; 2 quarter, until the south-facing side is left to beat and pump blood around the body, Caine Rd) and follow the path across the street rise upward on its own. keeping it fresher than fresh. FORMER FRENCH MISSION and up the hill to the gardens. Many local Hong Kong Chinese see the BUILDING Map p56 building as a huge violation of the princi- HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL & 1 Battery Path; MTR Central (exit K)

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS ples of feng shui. For example, the bank’s & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS BANK OF CHINA BUILDINGS Map p56 BOTANICAL GARDENS Map p56 four triangular prisms are negative symbols The Court of Final Appeal, the highest judicial %2530 0154; www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/ls_park.php; MTR Central in the geomancer’s rule book; being the body in Hong Kong, is now housed in the Albany Rd; admission free; hterrace gardens To the east of the HSBC building is the old opposite to circles, these triangles contra- neoclassical former French Mission building, 6am-10pm, zoo & aviaries 6am-7pm, greenhouses Bank of China (BOC) building (2A Des Voeux Rd Central), dict what circles suggest – money, pros- a charming structure built by an American 9am-4.30pm; g3B, 12 or 40M from Central built in 1950, which now houses the bank’s perity, perfection. The public viewing gallery trading firm in 1868. It served as the Russian Established in 1871 as the Botanic Garden, Central branch and, on the top three (13th (h8am-6pm Mon-Fri) on the 43rd floor offers consulate in Hong Kong until 1915 when these 5.6-hectare gardens are a pleasant to 15th) floors, the exclusive China Club, panoramic views of Hong Kong. the French Overseas Mission bought it and collection of fountains, sculptures, green- which evokes the atmosphere of old Shang- added a chapel and a dome. The building houses, a playground, a zoo and some hai. The BOC is now headquartered in the CENTRAL DISTRICT POLICE STATION was the headquarters of the provisional

HONG KONG ISLAND awesome Bank of China Tower (1 Garden Rd) to the HONG KONG ISLAND fabulous aviaries. Along with exotic trees, Map p68 colonial government after WWII. Tree-lined southeast, designed by Chinese-born Ameri- plants and shrubs, some 160 species of bird 10 Hollywood Rd; g26 Battery Path links Ice House St with Gar- can architect IM Pei and completed in 1990. den Rd. Just before the mission building is are in residence here – including non- Part of this compound of four-storey build- The 70-storey Bank of China Tower is native sulphur-crested cockatoos, which are ings dates back to 1864, though other pretty Cheung Kong Garden, which developers attractive but damage the local vegetation. Hong Kong’s third-tallest structure after blocks were added in 1910 and 1925. The were required to lay out when they built the The zoo is surprisingly comprehensive, with Two International Finance Centre in Central police moved out in late 2004 and, at the 70-storey Cheung Kong Centre to the south. time of writing, the government was considering putting the buildings and the valu- GOVERNMENT HOUSE Map p56 TRANSPORT – CENTRAL able chunk of land on which they sit up for %2530 2003; Upper Albert Rd; MTR Central (exit G) MTR Central station on the Island and Tsuen Wan lines is at the heart of the neighbourhood. commercial tender, despite a public outcry Parts of this erstwhile official residence of against the move. the governor of Hong Kong, opposite the Airport Express Hong Kong station below IFC Mall connects by underground walkway with Central MTR on one side northern end of the Zoological & Botanical and on the other to the central piers ferry terminal. EXCHANGE SQUARE Map p56 Gardens, date back to 1855 when Governor Bus Buses from all over the island start and end their journeys at Central bus terminus below Exchange Square. 8 Connaught Pl; MTR Central (exit A) Sir John Bowring was in residence. Other Tram The line runs east and west along Des Voeux Rd Central. West of Jardine House, this complex of features, including the dominant central Star Ferry Ferries from Tsim Sha Tsui and Hung Hom in Kowloon arrive at the new Central ferries pier. three elevated office towers is home to the tower linking the two original buildings, Hong Kong Stock Exchange and a number were added in 1942 by the Japanese, who Central Escalator Lower terminus at Central Market to the Mid-Levels. of businesses and offices. Access is via a used it as military headquarters during the Peak Tram Lower terminus at 33 Garden Rd to the Peak. network of overhead pedestrian walkways occupation of Hong Kong in WWII. Hong Outlying Islands Ferry Ferries to Discovery Bay (pier 3), Lamma (pier 4), Cheung Chau (pier 5), Lantau and Peng Chau stretching west to Sheung Wan and linked Kong’s first chief executive, Tung Chee Hwa, (pier 6). to many of the buildings on the other side refused to occupy Government House after of Connaught Rd. The ground level of the taking up his position in 1997, claiming the 58 59 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com feng shui wasn’t satisfactory, and his succes- Hong Kong’s first true ‘skyscraper’ when it Market ( p70 ) in Sheung Wan, and today four wrought-iron China Gas lamps at the top and sor, Donald Tsang, has followed suit. opened as the Connaught Centre in 1973. you’ll find the usual mishmash of cheap bottom of the steps were placed here in Government House is open to the public Hong Kong Chinese like giving nicknames clothing, handbags, backpacks and cos- the 1870s and are listed monuments. three or four times a year, notably one to things (and people, be they friend or tume jewellery. Sunday in March, when the azaleas in the foe) and the centre has been dubbed the ONE & TWO INTERNATIONAL mansion gardens are in full bloom. ‘House of 1000 Arseholes’. ST JOHN’S CATHEDRAL Map p56 FINANCE CENTRE Map p56 %2523 4157; www.stjohnscathedral.org.hk; 4-8 1 Harbour View St; MTR Hong Kong (exit F) HONG KONG CITY HALL Map p56 LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL BUILDING Garden Rd; admission free; h7am-6pm; MTR These two tapering, pearl-coloured colossi %2921 2840; 1 Edinburgh Pl; MTR Central (exit J3) Map p56 Central (exit J2) sit atop the International Finance Centre Southwest of Star Ferry pier, the recently 8 Jackson Rd; MTR Central (exit G) Consecrated in 1849, this Anglican cathe- (IFC) Mall and Hong Kong station, termi- facelifted City Hall was built in 1962 and is The colonnaded and domed neoclassical dral is one of the very few colonial struc- nus of the Airport Express and the Tung still a major cultural venue in Hong Kong, building on the east side of Statue Square tures still standing in Central. Criticised Chung lines. Both were partly designed with concert and recital halls, a theatre and was once the old Supreme Court. Built in for blighting the colony’s landscape when by Cesar Pelli, the man responsible for exhibition galleries. Within the so-called 1912 of granite quarried on Stonecutters it was first erected, St John’s is now lost Canary Wharf in London. One IFC, which Lower Block but entered to the east of City Island, it has served as the seat of the Legis- in the forest of skyscrapers that make up opened in 1999, is a ‘mere’ 38 levels tall. Hall’s main entrance, the Hong Kong Planning & lative Council (Legco) since 1985. Standing Central. The tower was added in 1850 and At 88 storeys, Two IFC, topped out in Infrastructure Exhibition Gallery (%3102 1242; www atop the pediment is a blindfolded statue the chancel extended in 1873. mid-2003, is Hong Kong’s tallest (though .info.gov.hk/infrastructuregallery; 3 Edinburgh Pl; admis- of Themis, the Greek goddess of justice and Services have been held here continu- not prettiest) building. Given the local sion free; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon) may not sound natural law. During WWII it was a head- ously since the cathedral opened, except penchant for bestowing nicknames on like a crowd-pleaser but it will awaken the quarters of the Gendarmerie, the Japanese in 1944, when the Japanese Imperial Army everything, Two IFC has been christened Meccano builder in more than a few visitors. version of the Gestapo, and many people used it as a social club. The cathedral suf- ‘Sir YK Pao’s Erection’, a reference to the The exhibition follows an 18.5-m ‘walk’ past were executed here. Across Jackson Rd to fered heavy damage during WWII and after owner of the development company that recent, ongoing and future civil engineer- the east is Chater Garden, which was a cricket the war the front doors were remade using built the tower. ing, urban renewal and environment im- pitch until 1975. timber salvaged from HMS Tamar, a British You can’t get to the top of Two IFC but provement projects, including the massive warship that used to guard the entrance to you can get pretty high up by visiting the & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS land reclamation project underway outside LI YUEN STREET EAST & WEST Victoria Harbour, and the beautiful stained- Hong Kong Monetary Authority Information Centre & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS along the harbour side, which is leaving City Map p56 , Map p68 glass East Window was replaced. You walk (%2878 1111; www.hkma.gov.hk; 55th fl, Two IFC, Hall marooned ever further inland. h10am-7pm; MTR Central (exit C) on sacred ground in more ways than one 8 Finance St; admission free; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, These two narrow and crowded alleyways at St John’s: it is the only piece of freehold 10am-1pm Sat), which contains a research JARDINE HOUSE Map p56 linking Des Voeux Rd Central with Queen’s land in Hong Kong. There’s usually a free library and exhibition areas related to the 1 Connaught Pl; MTR Hong Kong (exit B2) Rd Central are called ‘the lanes’ by Hong organ concert at 1.15pm on Wednesdays. Hong Kong currency, fiscal policy and A short distance southeast of Star Ferry Kong residents, and were traditionally the Enter from Battery Path. banking history. There are guided tours pier, this 52-storey silver monolith punc- place to go for fabric and piece goods. at 2.30 and 3pm Monday to Friday, and tured with 1750 porthole-like windows was Most vendors have now moved to Western LOWER ALBERT ROAD & ICE HOUSE 10.30am Saturday. HONG KONG ISLAND STREET Map p56 , Map p68 HONG KONG ISLAND MTR Central (exit G) MAID IN HONG KONG Lower Albert Rd, where the massive SAR EXPLORING HONG KONG’S A large number of households in Hong Kong have an amah, a maid who cooks, cleans, minds the children and/or feeds Government Headquarters (Map p56 ; 18 Lower Albert HEART the dog, who either lives in or comes in once or twice a week. In the old days amahs were usually Chinese spinsters who Rd) is located, has many interesting build- wore starched white tunics and black trousers, put their hair in a long plait and had a mouthful of gold fillings. Their ings. The attractive off-white stucco and Walking Tour 1 Legislative Council Building Begin the employers became their families. Today, however, that kind of amah is virtually extinct, and the work is now done by red-brick structure at the top of the road is foreigners – young women (and increasingly men) from the Philippines, Indonesia, Nepal, Thailand and Sri Lanka on the Dairy Farm Building (Map p68 ) , built for the walk at Statue Square and take in the hand- two-year renewable ‘foreign domestic helper’ (FDH) work visas. Dairy Farm Ice & Cold Storage Company in some outline of the neo-classical Legislative Coun- Filipinos are by far the largest group, accounting for some 65% of the territory’s 240,000 foreign domestic workers. 1898 and renovated in 1913. cil Building (opposite ) , one of the few colonial-era While the Indonesians descend on Victoria Park and the Nepalese prefer Tsim Sha Tsui on their one day off (usually Today it houses the Fringe Club ( p218 ), the survivors in the area and the seat of Hong Sunday), Filipino amahs take over the pavements and public squares of Central. They come in their thousands to share excellent M at the Fringe restaurant ( p177 ) and Kong’s modern legislature. food, gossip, play cards, read the Bible, and do one another’s hair and nails. You can’t miss them around Statue Square, the illustrious Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Exchange Square and the plaza below the HSBC building. Hong Kong (%2521 1511; www.fcchk.org). Tower- 2 Bank of China Tower Begin walking Though it doesn’t seem very attractive, for young Filipinos a contract to work in Hong Kong is a dream come true, ing above the Dairy Farm Building on the southwest through Chater Garden park and an answer to the poverty of the Philippines, even if the minimum monthly salary is only $3320 (still more than twice opposite side of the road is the Bishop’s House cross over Garden Rd to the angular, modern what they would earn in Singapore or Malaysia). The work is a chance to attain, eventually, a better standard of life (Map p68 ), built in 1851 and the official resi- lines of the Bank of China Tower ( p58 ), with amazing back home. But such opportunity doesn’t come without a heavy price. According to Hong Kong-based Asian Migrant dence of the Anglican Bishop of Victoria. views from the 43rd floor. Centre (www.asian-migrants.org), as many as 25% of foreign domestic helpers in Hong Kong suffer physical and/or From the Dairy Farm Building, Ice House sexual abuse from their employers. If you’d like to learn more, read Maid to Order in Hong Kong by Nicole Constable, St doglegs into Queen’s Rd Central. Just 3 Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware which is based on interviews the author conducted with amahs throughout Hong Kong. before it turns north, a wide flight of stone Duck into Hong Kong Park for this free mu- steps leads down to Duddell St (Map p56 ). The seum (p62 ) displaying valuable pots, cups and 60 61 lonelyplanet.com other elegant tea ware. Sample some of Chi- with a wall of skyscrapers on one side and cups (used particularly for enjoying the lonelyplanet.com na’s finest teas down in the serene café. ADMIRALTY & WAN CHAI mountains on the other, makes for some fragrance of the finest oolong from Taiwan) Drinking & Nightlife p209 ; Eating p183 ; Shopping p163 ; dramatic photographs. and, of course, teapots made of porcelain Sleeping p252 4 St John’s Cathedral From here take ele- By far the best feature of the park is the or purple clay from Yixing. The ground- To the east of Central is Admiralty (Map p63 ) , a vated walkways west over Cotton Tree Dr, delightful Edward Youde Aviary, named after floor café makes a great spot to recharge district you might not even notice were it not a former Hong Kong governor (1982–86) over a pot of fine tea. through Citybank Plaza, over Garden Rd for the dominating Pacific Place shopping centre and China scholar who died suddenly while The KS Lo Gallery (%2869 0690; 10 Cotton Tree Dr; and through Cheung Kong Garden to the and several modern buildings of note, includ- cathedral ( p61 ), dating from 1849. It is a modest in office. Home to more than 600 birds admission free; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon), in a small ing the blindingly gold Far East Finance Centre (Map building to earn the title of cathedral, espe- representing some 90 different species, the building just southeast of the museum, p63; 16 Harcourt Rd), known locally as the ‘Amah’s cially so set among the towering corporate aviary is huge and manages to actually feel contains rare Chinese ceramics and stone Tooth’ in reference to the traditional Chinese cathedrals now surrounding it, but it is an like a corner of rainforest in places. Visitors seals collected by the gallery’s eponymous maids’ preference for gold fillings and caps. walk along a wooden bridge suspended benefactor. important historic Hong Kong monument Admiralty is a small district, bordered by some 10m above the ground and at eye The Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre (%2521 all the same. Cotton Tree Dr in the west and Arsenal St in level with the tree branches, where most h the north. Hong Kong Park effectively cuts it 3008; 7A Kennedy Rd; admission free; 10am-9pm 5 Hongkong & Shanghai Bank Building of the birds are to be found. The Forsgate off from the Mid-Levels and the Peak to the Conservatory on the slope overlooking the Follow Battery Path past the Former French south, while Harcourt Rd is its barrier to the Mission Building to Ice House St. Cross over park is the largest in Southeast Asia. TRANSPORT – ADMIRALTY harbour in the north. At the park’s northernmost tip is the and walk right (east) along Queen’s Rd Cen- East of Admiralty is Hong Kong Island’s MTR Admiralty station is on the Central and Tsuen tral to the Hongkong & Shanghai Bank building (p53 ) Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware (%2869 0690; most famous district: Wan Chai (Map p65 ) , or www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/cs_mus_lcsd.php; 10 Cotton Tree Wan lines. and up the escalator, if it’s open, to the large ‘Little Bay’. Its three main roads are Jaffe, Dr; admission free; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon). Built in Bus Buses to and from destinations throughout airy atrium. Walk through the ground-floor Lockhart and Hennessy Rds. The harbour 1846 as the home of the commander of Hong Kong Island operate from Admiralty bus plaza to pat Stephen and Stitt, the two lions is the limit to the north, and to the south the British forces, it is the oldest colonial terminus below Queensway Plaza and Admiralty guarding the exit to Des Voeux Rd Central. it’s Queen’s Rd East. If you choose to believe building in Hong Kong still standing in its MTR station. The closest Central MTR station entrance is some of the tourist brochures, Wan Chai is original spot. The museum, a branch of then a short distance to the north along the still inseparably linked with the name of Suzie Tram East along Queensway, Johnston Rd and

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS the Hong Kong Museum of Art, houses & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS pedestrian walkway between Statue Square Wong – not bad considering that the book Hennessy Rd (Map p65 ) to Causeway Bay; west to a collection of antique Chinese tea ware: and Prince’s Building. dates back to 1957 and the movie to 1960. Al- Central and Sheung Wan. bowls, teaspoons, brewing trays, sniffing though Wan Chai had a reputation during the

0 200 m Vietnam War as an anything-goes red-light 0 500 m EXPLORING 0 0.1 miles district, today it is mainly a centre for shop- ADMIRALTY 0 0.3 miles W HONG KONG’S HEART ping, business and more upscale entertain- e t Memorial ll S S Victoria in t Central Gardens Wo Ong La a e L Harbour t n Theatre La s u e n ment. If you want to see how far Wan Chai o le Gloucester u Chater Rd C n Pedder on g y o na Prince of W Memorial Bldg D Tower ugh Central S S e H t Wales Building u t t Pedder St R i C Garden s d C R on has come since then, check out the majestic e en d Hong Kong na V c t ing St Chater Rd u I Statue ra K ght o l Heliport g

D Rd Lan Kwai e Square HSBC u e Cen Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (p64 ) . It’s a u Bank of H s t x a L ra Fong r Tim Wa Av l t c V W Rd America o o C S Chater Jackson Rd u HONG KONG ISLAND y e t HONG KONG ISLAND e Ice House St different world south and southeast of this d ntr r r S Statue Club St n Dairy Farm a Tower t Citic ie

u R l k Garden P

d R k x t n T Hong Kong

Square h Building d Tower s ic o a im t

R 1 La S m a r n t

m ‘new’ Wan Chai. Sandwiched between John- B w Arts Centre d b h M A

Bank St e r Drake St n t Q th e u Murray Rd 6

C e e u Duddell St e entral en Jackson Rd D en C i g ' F

tra r b w s Rd A n l r o v i ak ston Rd and Queen’s Rd East are row after e e

A L d rm v Chater e R Cheung t 3 fo G S ly S Per A lou t a rt SAR Government ceste Garden L y r row of narrow streets harbouring all sorts of e e Upper Kong r Rd n b A o Bank of 25 e 5 e l l Headquarters Tramway a b n l w BatterGarden t Harcourt To Agnés B Cinema (100m); A e G China Tower m d S Murray Rd e a Rd Cent r o Q 's ral traditional shops, markets and workshops. t r Path T Garden Shouson Theatre (100m) ueen Queensway R

R A y 26 d Government lb Jaff

e Citibank Plaza Police e Rd L Cheung House rt 7 High 4

o US Rd Plaza Headquarters w Kong Court 27 Queensway Lockhart Rd e Hong Kong Consulate Murray r r Battery GardenPath 2 9 5 d D S Arsenal St Tra HONG KONG PARK Map p63 d R Building A Zoological & e mway R den re u 11 Henne lb y ar T p ssy Rd an Botanical G Cotton re 18 e Citibank lb m 15 rt 4 %2521 5041; www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/ls_park.php; 19 A Gardens 20 e Pacific Government R Plaza Forsgate 24 d High C 10 Q House 3 Hong Conservatory 23 Place u h o ee Court Cotton Tree Dr, Admiralty; admission free; park Kong u 21 n Anton St St r 's d Park t 13 Admiralty R Landale US Consulate R Edward 14 16 d n Murray R de r 6am-11pm, conservatory & aviary 9am-5pm; MTR Youde d l Ea r d P s Ga Building D 22 r t e Aviary R h St e D t Tr g e Gresson Admiralty (exit C1), 12A runs btwn Chater Rd u Cotton 8 y 2 1 c St d i o 12 a MacD ne t r o Ken s 17 Hong m S n u t J n t Forsgate in Central & Kennedy Rd, alight at the first stop on n S Kong e o Conservatory ll R is Park d Bo M ranc rr M t F Cotton Tree Dr et S t R o d nm Deliberately designed to look anything outh Tc B d e win Path o R 19 but natural, Hong Kong Park is one of the Bre w e n WALK FACTS most unusual parks in the world, emphasis-

r ing artificial creations such as its fountain D en Start Statue Square, Central w Rd n o B plaza, conservatory, artificial waterfall, e w

End Central MTR station (entrance/exit K) ha o C tham Path M a B indoor games hall, playground, t’ai chi g a Distance 1.5km z Peak Tramway in garden, viewing tower, museum and arts e

Time 45 minutes G a centre. For all its artifice, the 8-hectare p

Fuel stop Museum of Tea Ware Café R Barker Rd d park is beautiful in its own weird way and, 62 63 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com ADMIRALTY WAN CHAI INFORMATION Kent & Curwen...... 10 C2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp222–31) British Consulate 㣅೟䷬џ仼...... 1 C2 Lane Crawford 䗷वԯ...... (see 10) Bowen Road Sports Ground 19 British Council 㣅೟᭛࣪न᳗...... 2 C2 Liuligongfang ⧝⩗Ꮉ᠓...... (see 10) ᇊ䳆䘧㎆⧗จ...... D3 French Consulate ⊩೟䷬џ仼 ...... 3 C1 Pacific Custom Tailors...... (see 11) Hong Kong Squash Centre 4 11 佭␃ຕ⧗Ёᖗ...... 20 B2 German Consulate ᖋ೟䷬џ仼...... C2 Pacific Place ໾সᒷจ...... C2 67 Hong Kong General Chamber of Vivienne Tam...... (see 11) SLEEPING (pp252–5) Commerce 佭␃㐑ଚ᳗ ...... 5 C2 Wise Kids ...... (see 11) Conrad Hong Kong Victoria 42 SIGHTS (pp62–7) EATING (pp183–6) 佭␃␃呫䜦ᑫ...... 21 C2 Harbour 34 Far East Finance Centre Café Too...... (see 25) Garden View International House 12 22 䘴ᵅ䞥㵡Ёᖗ ...... 6 C1 Cine Città...... D2 ཇ䴦ᑈ᳗೦᱃䒦...... A2 13 Island Shangri-La Hotel Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware 㤊 Fish Bar 儮৻...... C2 23 e Great Food Hall...... (see 11) ␃ዊ佭Ḑ䞠ᢝ໻䜦ᑫ...... C2 n ݋᭛⠽仼...... 7 C2 i L 14 24 8 Nicholini's...... C2 Wesley Hong Kong 㸯㰁䒦...... D2 n Hong Kong Design Centre ...... B2 a

15 W 9 Petrus ⦔㖴令ᓇ...... C2 KS Lo Gallery 㕙Ḗ⼹㤊㮱仼...... C2 n TRANSPORT (pp269–86) e Thai Basil...... (see 11) u 16 s Expo Dr East T 16 Bus Station (Admiralty) SHOPPING (pp163–5) Xi Yan Sweets ಡᆈ⫰㮱...... D2 R 25 T Bookazine ...... (see 6) Yé Shanghai...... (see 11) Ꮘ຿キ(㊄㏹) ...... C1 M Licensing Division of the Transport Chinese Arts & Crafts Ё㮱 ...... (see 11) ENTERTAINMENT (pp215–16) Department 䘟䔌㕆⠠✻䚼 ...... 26 C2 City Chain ᰖ䭧ᒞ ...... (see 11) Cargo 1/5...... 17 D2 Singapore Airlines 19 Handling Hong Kong Records ...... (see 11) Basin 18 27 Expo Dr Joyce...... (see 10) UA Pacific Place...... C2 ᮄࡴവ㟾ぎ...... C2 Expo Dr Central 75

Kelly & Walsh...... (see 10) d W g R Hin a 14 ng n Hu S h Ton Convention Ave Marsh Rd in g Kin 76 g t Lun g S nochy Rd 68 S 39 Wan Chai Wed-Mon), housed in the Cassels Block of shining through the glass pyramid at the t Great Eagle 18 Harbour Sports Centre 2 Ground the former Victoria Barracks, within Hong top of the building between 6pm and 8 13 Centre St 65 d Canal Rd ier Harbour R P 48 Kong Park at its eastern edge, since 1992, midnight. The bottom level indicates the g Causeway n k Wan Chai i c

i Sun Hung e 24 rm v 66 Tower Central Centre o A w 17 China Kai Centre f n Immigration & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS supports local sculptors, printmakers and hour: red is 6pm; white 7pm; purple 8pm; r Plaza & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS e s e Resources 43 t F Revenue P r 5 12 Tower A Tower 11 15 74 Building 6 potters, and stages temporary exhibitions. yellow 9pm; pink 10pm; green 11pm. When 7 Harbour Dr Jaffe Rd 35 loucester Rd 31 Hong Kong Park is an easy walk from all four lights are the same colour, it’s right G Rd art O h Wan Chai ck t 70 Lo Police ' Wan either Central or the Admiralty MTR station. on the hour. When the top light is different S

B Police S

r d Headquarters Chai t k i Station e

e R

c F

i w

from the bottom ones, it’s 15 minutes past l 9 Jaf em f e R 60 n a w d

r o n

t M t d e i 36

n g

the hour. If the top two and bottom two F R or g

T n

30 i HONG KONG CONVENTION & d a

r Arsenal St Lockhart Rd Lockhart Rd ri

R y k a s w d Market w o are different, it’s half-past the hour. If the m Y Heard ra o n EXHIBITION CENTRE Map p65 T a H Mallory St e d B nnes sy Rd n d Wan Chai R H nnessy R e R top three match, it’s 45 minutes past the H 63 i l d l est %2582 8888; www.hkcec.com; 1 Expo Dr, Wan d St W R St Sharp n Y R to a d 69 hour. So what time is it now? Anton St d s t g Tramw 73 3 Thomson R n Chai; 18 Landale St oh S J i Southorn 23 n ay 41 t S Playground Triang 72 Due north of the Wan Chai MTR station, S t HONG KONG ISLAND 25 HONG KONG ISLAND n Rd Q t Johnsto Tai 27 d u a St d R Gresson St F La Star St e R Tai Wo St 4 s Map p65 e n Stone Null os dSa GOLDEN BAUHINIA le the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibi- n r d u t est i C o 's L S 37 a o l R ast t Yuen h Ruttonjee v

R S W ati d p C B n i t Hospital o E u h n a tion Centre, which was built in 1988 and Golden Bauhinia Sq, 1 Expo Dr, Wan Chai; bus 18, a t n a S w S t s S L a r A 61

o r w S t Sung Tak t y o d ng St E n W r a g K R s o Morrison w nci n e m extended onto a man-made island in the MTR Wan Chai (exit A5) Fra St y St d t w d ss i Wing St W Cro ah La g m s St S S u r St Hill R n T a Wan Tai A O u G S Oi K n h 20 Tai Wo e wa Chai t 62 C harbour for the handover in 1997, has A 6m-tall statue (including pedestal) of e g L n ri Park ai p Queen's Rd N Ea La been variously compared with a bird’s Hong Kong’s symbol, called the Forever S st g n 22 Shiu Kin B o o K t w enn S W wing, a banana leaf and a lotus petal. For Blooming Bauhinia, stands on the water- en ed Happy Valley y n D r R e Tak La Racecourse

d u F u un 21 t a Y g H more information, see p38 . front promenade just in front of the Hong W S o n T ng Hong Kong e y u rr h d Racing C e St Margaret's n Museum n College e Muslim Cemetery

CENTRAL PLAZA Map p65 a K L

h a 18 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai; g18 ll Catholic TRANSPORT – WAN CHAI u N Cemetery d e At just under 374m, Central Plaza, which R n p o a t St MTR Wan Chai station is on the Island line and is G S ub was completed in 1992, is just 3m shorter i bs a R h d the best way to reach this district. C n than the newer Two IFC. The glass skin of a W Happy the tower has three different colours – Tram East along Queensway, Johnston Rd and Valley gold, silver and terracotta – and the overall Hennessy Rd to Causeway Bay; west to Central and Hong Kong impression is rather garish. Sheung Wan. Cemetery Central Plaza functions as one of the Star Ferry Wan Chai ferry pier to Hung Hom and world’s biggest clocks. There’s method to Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. nel

Tun the madness of those four lines of light Aberdeen

64 65 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com WAN CHAI ACADEMY FOR THE PERFORMING to gawp – not to party. The bars are generally ARTS Map p65 nothing to get excited about – standing out INFORMATION Cosmos Books ໽ഄ೪᳌...... 25 A4 Devil's Advocate...... 54 C1 Alliance Française ⊩೟᭛࣪न᳗ .. 1 D2 Design Gallery 䀁㿜ᒞ...... (see 18) Kangaroo Downunder...... (see 32) %2584 8500; www.hkapa.edu; 1 Gloucester Rd, for little more than their similarity – but it’s a 55 Australian Consulate ▇⌆䷬џ仼...2 C3 Joint Publishing ϝ㙃᳌ᑫ...... 26 D2 Maya...... C1 Wan Chai; MTR Admiralty (exit E2) fun place to do a little pub-crawling, especially 56 China Travel Service...... 3 B4 Kung Fu Supplies ࡳ໿⫼ક݀ৌ(see 23) Mes Amis ...... C1 57 With its striking triangular atrium and an at happy hour. Lan Kwai Fong has more pubs Cyber Clan...... 4 C4 Plateau ...... (see 65) Old China Hand ...... D1 58 and bars than restaurants, while Wyndham Goethe-Institut ℠ᖋᅌ䰶...... 5 A3 Sunmark Camping Equipment Skitz...... C1 exterior Meccano-like frame that is a work White Stag...... (see 32) Hong Kong Federation of Women ᰼ዄ䴆➳⫼ક...... 27 C4 of art in itself, the academy building (1985) St, the latest corner of the area to spring into 佭␃৘⬠်ཇ㙃ড়न䘆᳗ ...... 6 D3 Wan Chai Computer Centre SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp222–31) is a Wan Chai landmark and an important life, has a slightly more upmarket selection of Hong Kong Immigration Department 28 ☷Ҩ䳏㜺ජ...... D2 59 bars and restaurants. These lead west to Soho ...... 7 B3 California Fitness...... D1 venue for music, dance and scholarship. 佭␃ܹ๗㰩 60 Hong Kong Trade Development Council EATING (pp183–6) Hong Kong Jockey Club...... B4 (from ‘South Of HOllywood Rd’), which is Morrison Hill Public Swimming Pool (Head Office) 佭␃䊓ᯧⱐሩሔ 369 Shanghai Restaurant...... 29 D1 above Hollywood Rd, another good hunting ᨽ߽㞷ቅ݀݅␌ބ∴...... 61 D5 HUNG SHING TEMPLE Map p65 (❢ㄐ੐⯪)...... 8 B3 American Restaurant ...... 30 A4 Queen Elizabeth Stadium ground for good food and nightlife. Irish Consulate ᛯ⠒㰁䷬џ仼...... 9 A4 Carriana Chiu Chow Restaurant ....31 C3 %2527 0804; 129-131 Queen’s Rd East, Wan Chai; Ӟ߽≭ԃ储㚆仼...... 62 D5 Joint Council for People with Disabilities Che's Cantonese Restaurant...... 32 C1 h8am-6pm; g6 or 6A 33 Water Supplies Department ...... (see 7) 佭␃ᕽᒋ㙃᳗...... 10 C2 Cinta-J...... C1 Nestled in a leafy nook on the southern New Zealand Consulate Flying Pan ...... 34 C1 SHEUNG WAN 35 SLEEPING (pp252–5) side of Queen’s Rd East, this narrow and ㋤㽓㰁䷬џ仼 ...... 11 B3 Hyang Chon Korean Restaurant... D3 Drinking & Nightlife p208 ; Eating p182 ; Shopping p162 ; 36 Charterhouse Hotel...... 63 D4 Small Claims Tribunal Liu Yuan Restaurant ...... D4 dark temple (which is also called Tai Wong 37 Empire Hotel Hong Kong Sleeping p250 ...... 12 B3 Lung Moon Restaurant ...... B4 ᆽ㺕㰩 38 佭␃ⱛᙙ䜦ᑫ...... 64 C2 Temple) is built atop huge boulders inډᇣ両䣶 South African Consulate Sabah...... D1 West of Central, in pockets Sheung Wan (Map The Grill...... 39 B3 Grand Hyatt Hotel ৯ᙙ䜦ᑫ...... 65 B3 honour of a Tang-dynasty official who was फ䴲䷬џ仼 ...... 13 C3 p70 ) still has something of a feel of old Shang- Tim's Kitchen ...... 40 D1 Harbour View International House TDC Business InfoCentre well known for his virtue (important) and Viceroy Restaurant & Bar...... (see 48) ☷᱃೟䱯䊧仼...... 66 B3 hai about it, although that is fast disappearing 䊓ᯧⱐሩሔଚ䊓䊛㿞Ёᖗ ...... 14 B3 ability to make predictions of great value to Xi Yan ಡᆈ...... 41 C4 Luk Kwok Hotel...... 67 D1 under the jackhammer, and many of the old Renaissance Harbour View Hotel traders (ultra-important). SIGHTS (pp62–7) ‘ladder streets’ (steep inclined streets with ENTERTAINMENT (pp215–18) 㨀呫⍋᱃䜦ᑫ...... 68 B3 Central Plaza...... 15 B3 Carnegie's ...... 42 C1 South Pacific Hotel Hong Kong steps) once lined with stalls and street vendors Golden Bauhinia 䞥㋿㤞ᒷจ...... 16 B2 Cine-Art House ...... 43 C3 फ⋟䜦ᑫ...... 69 D4 OLD WAN CHAI POST OFFICE Map p65 have been cleared away to make room for Hong Kong Academy for Performing Dusk till Dawn...... 44 C1 The Fleming ...... 70 C4 17 Cnr Queen’s Rd East & Wan Chai Gap Rd, Wan Chai; more buildings or the MTR. Nevertheless, Arts 佭␃ⓨ㮱ᅌ䰶...... A3 Joe Banana's ...... 45 C1 Wharney Guangdong Hotel Hong Kong Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition 46 71 g6 or 6A traditional shops and businesses cling on and & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Neptune Disco II...... D1 佭␃㧃㕢㊉⍋䜦ᑫ...... C1 & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS 18 Centre 佭␃᳗䅄ঞሩ㾑Ёᖗ..... B3 New Makati Pub & Disco...... 47 D1 Ying King Apartment A short distance to the east of Wan Chai the area is worth exploring. Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Punchline Comedy Club...... 48 C3 㣅Ҁ䖢䊧仼...... 72 C4 Market is this important colonial-style Hollywood Road (Map p68 ) , which got its name Centre (New Wing) Tribeca...... (see 68) building erected in 1913 and now serv- 佭␃᳗䅄ঞሩ㾑Ёᖗ(ᣂ⠢)....19 B2 Wanch...... 49 C1 TRANSPORT (pp269–86) from all the holly bushes that once thrived 20 Hung Shing Temple ⋾㘪সᒳ ...... A5 CTS Wan Chai Branch...... 73 B4 ing as a resource centre operated by the here, is an interesting street to explore. The 21 Old Wan Chai Post Office...... B5 DRINKING (pp209–10) Visa Office of the People's Environmental Protection Department (%2893 2856; eastern end is lined with upmarket antique Wan Chai Market ☷Ҩ㸫Ꮦ ...... 22 B5 Bar 109 ...... 50 D1 Republic of China ...... 74 C3 51 h10am-5pm Mon-Tue & Thu-Sat, 10am-1pm Wed, and carpet shops and trendy eateries. How- Bridge ...... D1 Wan Chai Ferry Pier ☷Ҩ⺐丁...... 75 C2 SHOPPING (pp163–5) Champagne Bar...... (see 65) Wan Chai Ferry Pier Bus Terminus 1-5pm Sun). ever, once you head west of Aberdeen St the 23 52 Bunn's Divers 䊧⇣┯∈ᅌ䰶...... C4 Chinatown...... C1 ☷Ҩ⺐丁Ꮘ຿㐑キ...... 76 C3 scene changes: you’ll soon be passing tradi- Chinese Arts & Crafts ...... 24 C3 Delaney's...... 53 D1 tional wreath and coffin makers, as well as

HONG KONG ISLAND LAN KWAI FONG & SOHO several funeral shops. HONG KONG ISLAND Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre to exhibitions). Extending over floors Nanshan Drinking & Nightlife p208 ; Eating p180 The limits of Sheung Wan are difficult to mark the return of Hong Kong to Chinese four and five, there’s room to host retro- South of Queen’s Rd Central and up hilly define, but basically the district stretches from sovereignty in 1997 and the establish- spectives and group shows in all visual D’Aguilar or Wyndham Sts is Lan Kwai Fong the Sheung Wan MTR station in the east to ment of the Hong Kong SAR. The flag-rais- media. (Map p68 ) , a narrow, L-shaped pedestrian way King George V Memorial Park and Eastern ing ceremony, held daily at 7.50am and that is Hong Kong Island’s chief entertain- St in the west. The harbour – or, rather, Con- ment district. It’s popular with expats and naught Rd West – is the northern border, conducted by the Hong Kong Police, has HONG KONG DESIGN CENTRE Map p63 become a ‘must see’ for visiting tourist Hong Kong Chinese alike. In recent years it while Hollywood Rd is the southern limit. %2522 8688; www.hkdesigncentre.org; 28 has become one of the first ports of call for groups from the mainland. There’s a pipe Kennedy Rd, the Mid-Levels; admission free; mainland tour groups: most often they’re here MAN MO TEMPLE Map p70 band on the 1st, 11th and 21st of each h9am-6pm (variable); g12A %2540 0350; 124-126 Hollywood Rd; admission month at 7.45am. The design centre, just opposite the Hong free; h8am-6pm; g26 Kong Visual Arts Centre, is housed in one TRANSPORT – LAN KWAI FONG This busy 18th-century temple is one of HONG KONG ARTS CENTRE Map p63 of the most graceful colonial buildings in & SOHO the oldest and most famous in Hong Kong. %2582 0200; www.hkac.org.hk; 2 Harbour Rd, the territory. Built in 1896, it served as a Man Mo (literally ‘civil’ and ‘martial’) is Wan Chai; MTR Admiralty (exit E2) bank, the offices of the Japanese Residents MTR Central station (Map p56 ) on the Island and dedicated to two deities. The civil deity is Due east of the Academy for the Perform- Association of Hong Kong before WWII and Tsuen Wan lines is at the heart of the neighbour- a Chinese statesman of the 3rd century BC ing Arts is the Hong Kong Arts Centre. a school until it was renovated and given hood. called Man Cheung, who is worshipped Along with theatres, including the impor- to the Hong Kong Federation of Designers. Bus Buses 5 and 5A from Central call at 10 Des as the god of literature and is represented tant Agnès B Cinema ( p217 ), you’ll also find Even if it does not have any exhibitions Voeux Rd (Map p70 ); bus 26 runs along Hollywood holding a writing brush. The military deity here the Pao Sui Loong & Pao Yue Kong Galleries open to the public, the exterior and public Rd. is Kwan Yu (or Kwan Tai), a Han-dynasty (%2824 5330; admission free; h10am-6pm during areas are worth a look. soldier born in the 2nd century AD and 66 67 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS HONG KONG ISLAND 69 E3 B2 B2 B1 B2 B2 B1 B2 B2 B1 C3 C3 C2 C1 C2 C3 C4 C2 C3 C3 C2 C2 A1 A2 D3 D3 D3 D3 D3 D1 D3 D2 D3 D4 D2 D3 91 99 95 90 98 89 96 88 86 93 97 92 94 87 121 109 106 104 100 120 114 105 102 103 111 112 118 108 107 101 110 113 115 116 117 119 ...... (see 7) ...... 㤝ᴀූ ...... (see 80) ...... (see 㰁Ḗഞ䜦ᑫ ...... ϗϔ৻ 䳆ᑰ ⶹ䎇ῖ ῖ䗨ᮙ䘞᳝䰤݀ৌ SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp222–31) California Fitness...... DK Aromatherapy...... Yun Fu Yun Whiskey Priest...... Tivo...... V-13 ...... Le Jardin ...... Lotus ...... Soda 42) ...... (see Solas...... (see 96) Staunton's Wine Bar & Cafe...... La Dolce Vita...... Yumla...... (see 42) (pp208–9) DRINKING Bar 1911...... Globe ...... Works...... Bar George...... Barco ...... PointBit ...... Bliss...... (see 39) Club 71 Feather Boa...... Finds...... (see 118) Gecko Lounge...... Joyce Is NotHere ...... Red Rock...... Dragon-I...... Happy Foot Reflexology Foot Reflexology Centre Happy Insomnia...... Propaganda ...... Fightin' Fit...... Healing Plants Hong Kong Institute of Languages...... Pure Fitness...... Yoga Central...... Yoga Fitness...... Yoga Plus...... (see 118) SLEEPING (pp250–2) Hanlun Habitats (Main Office).... LKF Hotel TRANSPORT (p269) Concorde Travel...... Natoria Travel Homebase...... ShamaOffice...... Main Ice House...... E3 B1 B2 B2 B1 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B1 B2 B2 B1 B2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C1 C1 C2 C2 C1 C1 C4 C4 C4 C4 C3 C2 C2 A1 A1 A2 A2 D3 D3 D3 D3 D3 D3 D3 D2 D4 D4 D3 D2 D3 59 82 45 54 56 47 49 52 53 62 67 68 75 70 74 73 46 48 85 57 58 65 79 80 66 71 55 72 81 83 84 50 60 51 61 63 64 76 77 78 69 ...... sion time. Two plaques describe the gods Two plaques describe the gods sion time. being worshipped inside, while others within the silence and respect request grounds and warn menstruating temple women to keep out of the main hall. Inside two 19th-century sedan are the temple used chairs shaped like houses, which are The time. to carry the two gods at festival incense coils suspended from the roof are ...... 䦲㿬 ...... (see 5) ...... 䱌㖑㤊ᅸ ...... ቅ䷖令ᓇ䜦৻ 呹༔䳆৲咉Ϫᆊ ...... ᇊ䒦ॄᑺ令ᓇ ∈Ⓦሙ 㖴㧃㤊令ᓇ 䳆ᑰ 㧃䗮䱊⫋㮱㸧᳝䰤佭␃㮱᳗〫ᇣ࡛จ ಯᎱ㦰໻ᑇӭ Wah Tung China Arts Arts China Tung Wah Wattis Fine Art ...... EATING (pp180–2) EATING Archie B's New York Deli ...... Assaf...... ENTERTAINMENT (pp214–15) Bohemian Lounge...... Cavern ...... Club 97...... Drop ...... Beyrouth CaféCentral ...... Bon Appetit...... Fringe Gallery...... (see 5) Fringe Studio Theatre Koh-i-Noor Koh-i-Noor Chilli Fagara ...... Club Qing...... (see84) Cru Wine & Grill ...... Flying Pan ...... Hotdog...... Café desArtistes ...... Kyoto Joe ...... Ivan theKozak...... Cecconi's Cantina ...... Caramba!...... Luk Yu Tea House House Yu Tea Luk La Kasbah...... (see79) Life ...... Jimmy's Kitchen ...... M at the Fringe ...... Thai Lemongrass...... 2) (see Tokio Joe ...... Mak's Noodle Mak's Noodle Tsui Wah Va Bene...... Veda ...... Stonegrill...... Mozart Stub'n...... Yun Fu Yung Kee Restaurant Song...... Nepal...... Olive...... &Wine Restaurant Olé Spanish Bar...... Peak Cafe Bar Post 97...... (see 84) Post 97...... (see Rughetta...... Shui Hu Ju Hu Shui SichuanDa Cuisine Ping Huo E2 E3 E1 B3 B1 B3 B2 B3 B1 B1 B2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C3 C1 C2 C4 C4 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 A2 A1 D2 D3 D3 D2 D2 D2 D4 D1 D4 D2 D4 D4 D2 D1 D3 D1 D2 D1 8 3 2 1 4 5 6 7 9 44 40 33 39 37 29 13 17 18 20 41 42 43 34 30 31 35 12 14 19 22 26 11 15 38 36 28 32 10 16 21 24 23 25 27 ...... )...... p29 Ё㽓㢅ᑫ ...... 催ቅ⇥㮱 ...... ϝ㙃᳌ᑫ ᫱ᕅ⾥ᅌ Џᬭ݀㕆 ௝೪ 㧃㢥 ...... ⻢ℰ㤅⃨኷ ...... 㮱᳗〫 ᑈ㧃ᰖ㺱݀ৌ ᰖ䭧ᒞ ᱃⽣⦴ᇊ ᷼ਛ㉣㒮 ໻ὁ㮱㢥 ໻៤স⥽᳝䰤݀ৌ ༻ᵫ↨Ѳ᥹㞷੪ଵ 䍙✊≪᳀ᇜ䭔ᑫ Outside the main entrance are four gilt four gilt Outside the main entrance are Tai Yip Art Book Centre Art Centre Yip Book Tai Rock Candy ...... FineTai Sing Antiques Teresa ColemanFine Arts...... Tibetan Gallery ...... Tse Sui Luen Olympia Graeco-Egyptian Coffee Coffee Graeco-Egyptian Olympia ScientificPhoto California Tower...... DistrictCentral Police Station ...... H&M ...... Hobbs & BishopsFine Art ...... Honeychurch Antiques...... Jilian, Lingerie On Wyndham ...... Publishing Joint Mir Oriental Carpets...... Folkcraft Mountain 1010 CSL Outlet ...... Color Six ...... Club Fringe CentralHong Kong Hospital U Fook King Linva Tailor Melbourne Plaza...... WeiWei Dry Cleaner & Laundry ...... (p35) SIGHTS House Bishop's Grotto Fine Art Grotto Fine John Batten Gallery BattenJohn ...... Plum BlossomsPlum ...... Schoeni Art Gallery...... Schoeni Art Branch Gallery ...... SHOPPING (pp156–62) Amours Antiques...... Anglo-Chinese Florist Florist Anglo-Chinese Arch AngelAntiques...... Arch AngelFine Art ...... Carpet Centre...... GalleryChine Chinese Arts & Crafts ...... Cigar Express Central...... Chain City Elemis Day Spa ...... Photo Supplies Everbest Flow Organic Bookshop ...... Foot...... INFORMATION INFORMATION LAN KWAI FONG & SOHO FONG KWAI LAN

now venerated as the red-cheeked god god as the red-cheeked now venerated of war; he is holding a sword. Kwan Yu’s popularity in Hong Kong probably has status as to do with his additional more pawnshops, the patron god of restaurants, societies such the police force and secret as the Triads (see plaques on poles that are carried at proces- plaques on poles that are

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94 94

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59 59

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61 61

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102 102

81 81 H

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50 50 Pedestrian Escalator Escalator Pedestrian

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68 68 Old Bailey St St Bailey Old

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113 113 Theatre La La Theatre

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Stanley St St Stanley

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Chiung Lung St St Lung Chiung

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Lyndhurst Tce Tce Lyndhurst

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73 73

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Li Yuen St West West St Yuen Li

110 110 a

21 21

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Man Yiu St St Yiu Man

65 65

Douglas St St Douglas

t 95 95

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27 27

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LAN KWAI FONG & SOHO SOHO & FONG KWAI LAN 0 0.1 miles miles 0.1 0 0 200 m m 200 0 68 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS HONG KONG ISLAND lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 0 200 m SHEUNG WAN SHEUNG WAN 0 0.1 miles SIGHTS (p67–71) SHOPPING (pp162–3) DRINKING (p208) Asia Art Archive...... 1 C3 Lock Cha Tea Shop ῖ㤊䒦...... 11 C3 Rice Bar...... 20 D3 2 g Cat Street Galleries ...... C3 Po Kee Fishing Tackle ...... 12 D2 in ᇊ㿬 ss Victoria 13 SLEEPING (pp250–2) E ro Hong Kong Museum of Medical Queen's Rd West Incense Shops... C2 ast C ice Harbour ern ur rv S 3 21 S o e t Sciences 佭␃䝿ᅌम⠽仼...... C3 Wing On ...... 14 D2 Bauhinia Furnished Suites ...... D2 t S ∌ᅝ rb a e H r 4 Central Park Hotel rn i Kwun Yam Temple 㾔䷇ᒳ...... B3 ste F e 22 W t 5 EATING (pp182–3) Ё⪄呫ᶣ䜦ᑫ...... B2 s Man Mo Temple ᭛℺ᒳ...... C3 e Macau 6 15 Lan Kwai Fong Hotel W Ferry Ohel Leah Synagogue 㥝Ѳූ...... B4 Gaia Ristorante ...... D3 Pier 23 Kong 7 㰁Ḗഞ䜦ᑫ...... D3 g Rd Pak Sing Ancestral Hall ⱒྦྷᒳ ...... B3 Grand Stage ໻㟲㟎仃ᑫ...... (see 10) To Shek Tong Tsui (1km); Conn n Kennedy Town (2.2km); aught Rd W u 8 Honeymoon Dessert...... (see 10) est h 25 Para/Site Artspace 㮱㸧ぎ䭧...... B2 C TRANSPORT (pp269–86) Aberdeen (7.5km) Sun Yat Sen Museum Korea House Restaurant...... 16 D2 24 ᄿЁቅ㋔ᗉ仼 ...... 9 C4 Leung Hing Chiu Chow Seafood Hong Kong Express 佭␃ᖿ䘟 ...... D2 Des Voeux Rd W Shun Tak Tramway est 10 Restaurant ܽ㟜╂Ꮂ⍋冂仃ᑫ..17 B2 Macau Ferry Bus Terminus B New Market St Centre 24 Western Market 㽓␃ජ...... C2 t on 25 S h Wing Lok St 18 ␃▇⺐丁Ꮘ຿㐑キ...... C1 Queen St a Pier Rd Man Fai ᭛䓱 ...... C2 d m Sai Ying Pun Wilmer St n t 19 S S a Qing 䂟...... D3 l K t tr 10 r o S a y e g n l Q h Shin d r u t 17 e 16 Co u W Sheung v nn e S e a e e l u n s gh t Wan C t R 's d C R Mid-Levels 21 ent When the textile vendors were driven out Gordon Bremmer and a contingent of d St 14 ral n Man Wa La io 18 De W ss t s Vo e S est s eu of the lanes linking Queen’s and Des Voeux British marines planted the Union flag on s t x Hollywood o Rd P S n Ce o B ntr o r a Road is nh Wing Lok St l a e Rds Central in the early 1990s, they were r m i Rumsey St 26 January 1841 and claimed Hong Kong r l Eastern St New St Park S l H o J tr i King George o H W e and a M r H s o L Q v p l Mercer moved to this renovated old market (1906) V Memorial i ly 22 a o Island for the Crown (though no plaque t w 13 u is a B 12 Park l o e S u R 8 o e t rd d an St d Rd Up n with its distinctive four-corner towers. marks the spot). Queen’s Rd runs in such 's S t p St High St 7 er R 15 g Wo St To Hong Kong Po Y d You’ll find knick-knacks, jewellery and toys Ta Upper L L 20 a serpentine fashion as it heads eastward University d i a 2 o W tral W Win R P sc k e en i Station StSai St a K C el (600m) m 4 n 1 r u st a Pound La g R Rd lington Wing Kut St on the ground floor, piece goods on the h S o R Queen's because it once formed the shoreline of n h w d 11 o Blake an Tung St S U B q t ( Fong 1st floor and bolts of cloth on the floors Po S S C Gilman's Garden t g at St) Bazaar Hong Kong Island’s northern coast, and this H Kau St d i n 23 R n o g F above it. k F r o In LadderSt part of it was called Possession Point. Pa n i Tank La Holl 19 g u U Lam Tce ywood Rd K t 5 Gage St d S n R B r lto re h e Bridges St tte ezy Pat C d t Ly a d S MAN WA LANE Map p70 i a W S g ne La 3 L ing Lee t n TAI PING SHAN TEMPLES Map p70 o

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS W t & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS g S MTR Sheung Wan (exit A1) in ff g Ca h t la 26 our Rd ine S S t z d S m Rd S t Just a block east of the Sheung Wan MTR ll R ey St el u wa e am G Kote P h Tai Ping Shan, a tiny neighbourhood in ra Lyndhurst Tce station, this narrow alley is a good intro- C G o Tun Wo La Sheung Wan and one of the first areas to n Aberdeen d le Rd duction to traditional Sheung Wan. Stalls u ast it R C 9 be settled by Chinese after the founding d 6 here specialise in name chops: a stone (or R Soho t o S St of the colony, has several small temples b i t y wood or jade) seal that has a name carved n S e tor so ll n l e clustered around where Tai Ping Shan St R e Leung Fai Terr h Po Shan Rd d e S in Chinese on the base. When dipped in P Victoria Old Bailey meets Pound Lane. Kwun Yam Temple (34 Tai Ping ChanceryPrison La pasty red Chinese ink, the name chop can Shan St) honours the ever-popular goddess Pedestrian Escala be used as a stamp or even a ‘signature’. C Pok Fu Lam St ain of mercy, Kun Iam – the Taoist equivalent Sh y e The merchant will create a harmonious and Country elle M Rd HONG KONG ISLAND o HONG KONG ISLAND Park Mosque sq of the Virgin Mary. Further to the north- ue auspicious Chinese name for you. Jct S t west, the recently renovated Pak Sing Ancestral POSSESSION ST Map p70 Hall (42 Tai Ping Shan St) was originally a store- cones burned as offerings by worshippers. CAT ST Map p70 g26 room for bodies awaiting burial in China. Off to the side are fortune-tellers ready h9am-6pm; g26 A short distance west of Cat St, next to It contains the ancestral tablets of around and willing to tell you of your (undoubt- Southwest of Sheung Wan MTR station and Hollywood Road Park and before Hollywood Rd 3000 departed souls. edly excellent) fate. just north of (and parallel to) Hollywood meets Queen’s Rd West, is Possession St. Rd is Upper Lascar Row, the official name of This is thought to be where Commodore QUEEN’S ROAD WEST INCENSE ‘Cat St’, a pedestrians-only lane lined with HONG KONG’S WHOLESALE SHOPS Map p70 antique and curio shops and stalls selling DISTRICT g26 found objects, cheap jewellery, ornaments, Head along Queen’s Rd West, about 200m carvings and newly minted ancient coins. TRANSPORT – SHEUNG WAN Walking Tour past the end of Hollywood Rd, and you’ll It’s a fun place to trawl through for a trin- MTR Sheung Wan station on the Island line. 1 Dried Seafood Shops Begin the tour at ket or two, but expect more rough than the Sutherland St stop of the Kennedy Town find two or three shops selling incense and Bus Buses 5 and 5A from Central call at 10 Des diamonds. There are proper shops on three tram. Have a look at (and a sniff of) Des paper offerings. These are burned to pro- Voeux Rd; bus 26 runs along Hollywood Rd (Map floors of the Cat Street Galleries (Casey Bldg, 38 Lok Voeux Rd West’s many shops piled with all pitiate the spirits of the dead and make a p68 ) between Sheung Wan and Central, Admiralty Ku Rd; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat), a small shopping manner of desiccated sea life. consumer heaven of their hell. There’s quite and Wan Chai. a choice of spirit-world comestibles, includ- centre entered from Upper Lascar Row. ing complete mini-sets of kitchenware, Tram Runs along Des Voeux Rd Central and Des 2 Herbalist Shops Walk south on Suther- cars, gold and silver ingots, the popular WESTERN MARKET Map p70 Voeux Rd West. land St to Ko Shing St, to browse the positively hell banknotes, and even computers and %2815 3586; 323 Des Voeux Rd Central & New Macau Ferry Terminal at Shun Tak Centre. medieval-sounding goods on offer from the personal stereos. Market St; h9am-7pm; MTR Sheung Wan (exit B) herbal-medicine traders. 70 71 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 0 200 m harbour and the typhoon shelter to Leighton HONG KONG’S WHOLESALE DISTRICT 0 0.1 miles Rd. Tin Hau, the site of Hong Kong Island’s g ssin most famous temple erected in honour of the Cro rbour Western Ha Victoria queen of heaven, is at the southeastern edge Harbour Macau Ferry HONG KONG’S BEST FREEBIES of Victoria Park. Chu Pier ng K o Con n naught g The spectacle from the public viewing gallery view- Rd W est R d NOONDAY GUN Map p74

St ing deck at the Bank of China ( p58 ). ux Rd West oe 221 Gloucester Rd; MTR Causeway Bay (exit D1) V Chi Lin Nunnery ( p102 ), where peace and serenity Wilmer St es Tramw D a Sutherland St y Queen Macau Government Des Voeux Rd Noel Coward made the so-called Noonday West B Tourist Office doesn’t cost a cent. K 1 on o ha New Market St P Gun famous with his satirical song Mad S m ier R Wednesday is ‘admission free’ day at six Hong h d in Queen St S g tr 3 Connaught Rd Cent Dogs and Englishmen (1924), about coloni- St a Wing Lok St Kong museums: Hong Kong Heritage Museum 2 nd Queen’s Rd W W y St als who braved the fierce heat of the mid- es ral ( p125 ), Hong Kong Museum of Art ( p90 ), Hong t 5 Cleverl Kong Museum of Coastal Defence ( p80 ), Hong day sun while the local people sensibly D Sheung Wan es V remained indoors: ‘In Hong Kong/they est oe ux Kong Museum of History ( p95 ), Hong Kong Science St t Rd n S Cen sio 4 tral strike a gong/And fire off a noonday gun/ ses Win Museum ( p96 ) and Hong Kong Space Museum HollywoodHollywood Rd Pos Mid- n g Lok Levels so Road ri St a La To reprimand each inmate/Who’s in late’. r B ( p91 ), excluding Space Theatre. Park o on N M ha J m Apparently when Coward was invited to H ew e Stra o a r nd Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens ( p58 ) King George V s S L v Burd Man W Mercer p t a o Memorial Park it Q is pull the lanyard, he was late and it didn’t a W St for free walks and gratis squawks. l u S R e t d e n go off until 12.03pm. U ' St Kadoorie Farm & Botanic Garden ( p107 ), where 6 p s p Lok Ku RdR er 9 d Built in 1901 by Hotchkiss of Portsmouth m Rd ier St Bonha Upper Station St L W the butterflies (and cows and dragonflies) are free. as l c e Hill ra T Sai St ar st nt this recoil-mounted 3lb cannon is one of the ai g St R e Kwun Yam P o een's Rd C Tian Tan Buddha (p137 ) for a cost-free superlative. Pound La in 7 Hollywoodw Rd Qu Po Yan St Temple g Tun S (C few vestiges of the colonial past in Cause- h t a an S t P S q St o t S ) way Bay and is its best-known landmark. The Blake g H n in o g Garden F k La Ladder St Hillier St to Bonham Strand. Due north is the original six-pounder was lost during WWII; H Fo In o n i t sp g u Tan S H ital Rd K r 8 olly Sheung Wan MTR station. e wo its replacement was deemed too noisy and d od Gage St B ad Bridges St R & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS re L d & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS ezy Path was exchanged for the current gun in 1961. Caine Rd Wing Lee St Soho The gun stands in a small garden opposite CAUSEWAY BAY the Excelsior Hotel on Gloucester Rd – the Drinking & Nightlife p210 ; Eating p187 ; Shopping p165 ; first plot of land to be sold by public auction 3 Western Market At the end of Ko Shing 7 Hollywood Rd Turn left into Tai Ping Sleeping p255 in Hong Kong (1841) – and is fired at noon St, re-enter Des Voeux Rd West and walk Shan St, then left to descend Upper Station Causeway Bay (Map p74 ), which is Tung Lo Wan every day. Eight bells are then sounded, northeast. Continue along Connaught Rd St to the start of Hollywood Rd’s antique shops (Copper Gong Bay) in Cantonese, was the site signalling the end of the forenoon watch. West, where you’ll find several floors of mar- (see p156 ). There’s a vast choice of curios and of a British settlement in the 1840s and was The gun also welcomes in the New Year at ket stalls occupying the attractive colonial rare, mostly Chinese, treasures. once an area of godowns (a Hong Kong ‘busi- midnight on 31 December. building housing the Western Market (p70 ) . ness’ or ‘pidgin English’ word for warehouses) Exactly how this tradition got started HONG KONG ISLAND 8 Man Mo Temple Continuing east on Hol- and a well-protected harbour for fisherfolk remains a mystery. Some people say that HONG KONG ISLAND 4 Birds’ Nests, Ginseng & Funeral Of- lywood Rd brings you to the Man Mo Temple ( p67 ), and boatpeople. Jardine Matheson fired the gun without ferings Shops At the corner of Morrison one of the oldest in the territory and dedicated The new Causeway Bay, one of Hong permission to bid farewell to a departing St, walk south past Wing Lok St and Bonham to the civil and martial gods Man Cheung Kong’s top shopping and nightlife areas, was managing director or to welcome one of its built up from swampland and reclaimed land Strand, which are both lined with shops sell- and Kwan Yu. incoming ships. The authorities were so en- from the harbour. Jardine Matheson, one of ing ginseng root and edible birds’ nests. Turn raged by the company’s insolence that, as 9 Cat St Market Take a short hop to the Hong Kong’s largest háwng (major trading right onto Queen’s Rd Central to the shops houses or companies), set up shop here, which selling paper funeral offerings for the dead. left down Ladder St to Upper Lascar Row, home of the Cat St Market (p70 ) , well stocked with explains why many of the streets in the district bear its name: Jardine’s Bazaar, Jardine’s TRANSPORT – CAUSEWAY BAY 5 Leung Hing Chiu Chow Seafood Res- Chinese memorabilia and inexpensive curios and gift items. Ladder St brings you back to Crescent and Yee Wo St (the name for Jardine MTR Causeway Bay and Tin Hau stations on Central taurant Hungry? Turn left into Possession Queen’s Rd Central. Cross the road and follow Matheson in Cantonese). line. Street and take a detour to Bonham Strand Causeway Bay is primarily for shopping, es- West for a quick Chiu Chow fix (see p183). pecially trendy clothing and, to a lesser degree, Bus From Admiralty and Central, buses 5, 5B and 26 dining out. The biggest and best shopping stop along Yee Wo St. 6 Pak Sing Ancestral Hall & Kwun Yam WALK FACTS centre is in Times Square ( p166 ), an enormous Green Minibus Bus 40 from Stanley calls along Tang Temple Take a left into Hollywood Rd and Start Kennedy Town tram (Sutherland St stop) block with offices, four floors of restaurants Lung St and Yee Woo St. then right to ascend Pound Lane to where End Sheung Wan MTR station (entrance/exit B) and 10 retail levels. Tram Along Hennessy Rd and Yee Wo St to Central it meets Tai Ping Shan St, where you’ll spot Distance 1.9km Causeway Bay is a relatively small but and Shau Kei Wan; along Percival St to Happy two temples ( p71 ). Look to the right for Pak Time One hour densely packed district. Canal Rd is its border Valley; along Wong Nai Chung Rd to Causeway Bay, Sing Ancestral Hall and to the left for Kwun Fuel stop Leung Hing Chiu Chow Seafood Restaurant to the west and Victoria Park is the eastern Central, Kennedy Town, and Shau Kei Wan. Yam Temple. limit. From north to south it runs from the 72 73 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS HONG KONG ISLAND 75 B3 B3 B3 B4 B3 B4 B4 B3 B4 B3 B5 B4 C4 C4 C4 C4 C5 C5 A4 A4 A2 A3 D1 D3 65 61 62 55 56 45 46 47 60 53 52 50 63 57 48 64 54 49 51 59 58 ...... 6.30am-10pm 2570 4682; ...... (see55) ...... , who prefer , who prefer )...... The park . The h % ᶣᆻ䜦ᑫ ( ...... (see 55) p60 Ё೟ᮙ㸠⼒䰓䞠ቅ䊧仼㎁᱃䜦ᑫ ᅣⱐ䊧仼 ...... amahs 䊧仼ڥЁ Mid-Autumn Festival ...... 催ᆠᮙ仼 ...... Ѳ⌆ᮙ仼 swimming pool ᆠ䈾佭␃䜦ᑫ 佭␃⦔呫䜦ᑫ ᮹䜦ᑫ 呫ᵅ䜦ᑫ؛फ㧃储㚆᳗ 佭␃䡙䩐☷ᖿ᥋ 佭␃䘞㠛᳗ 㧃⫳ᮙ㟡 TRANSPORT (p286) China Travel Service Park Lane Hong Kong Regal Hongkong Hotel Rosedale on the Rosedale Park Hostel Fat Wang DRINKING (p210) Shama...... Noble Hostel Noble Causeway Bay Guest House Hong Kong Hostel ...... Jia...... Lanson Place ...... Brecht's Circle...... Dickens Bar ...... EndEast & Brewery Out... Side Inn (pp222–31) SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Hong Kong Stadium...... South China Athletic China Association South Hostel Asia Express byHoliday Inn Hotel Metropark HotelNewton Hong Kong Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Kiu Inn Chung SLEEPING (pp255–7) SLEEPING House Guest Alisan B4 B3 B6 B4 B5 B4 B3 B4 B3 B4 B4 B4 B3 B4 C3 A4 A3 A3 A3 A4 A3 A4 A3 A4 D2 42 43 20 21 28 26 29 30 38 31 34 35 39 32 27 41 44 22 23 24 40 37 36 33 25 ..... , when people turn out en masse carry- ...... (see 19) ...... Between April and November you can you Between April and November ...... ( p17 ) adult/child 3-13 & senior over 60 $19/9; with 1hr closure at noon & 5pm Apr-Oct)with 1hr closure days before becomes a flower market a few of the and is the site the Chinese New Year Hong Kong Flower Show in March. It’s also worth a visit during the ing lanterns. CAUSEWAY BAY TYPHOON SHELTER TYPHOON SHELTER BAY CAUSEWAY p74 Map off Hung Hing Rd, Causeway Bay Not so long ago the waterfront in Cause- way Bay used to be a mass of junks and sampans huddling in the typhoon shelter but these days it’s nearly for protection, land jutting out to the west The all yachts. take a dip in the of people practising the slow-motion cho- the weekend they of t’ai chi. At reography joined by Indonesian are text, (see boxed it to Central ...... ⊝ゴሙ ...... 䡙䩐৻ ...... (see 54) ...... (see ⱛᅸ᠆䰶 ...... ௝㰁Ёᖗ ಡᆈકੇ ໾ᑇ仼 ⊩ᓣ⠯ᠦሟ 呹༔䳆৲咉Ϫᆊ ⬭ᆊᒮ᠓ ...... ዄ໑ৌ ቅ㩉 ...... ⋄៤㦰仼 ট੠᮹ᴀ᭭⧚ ໑ৌᒷ 㖴㧃令ᓇ ...... ᭛䓱 ঢ়⼹ ➩㧡䍞फ㦰仼 ⱒῖῧ ᮄ㕙ᇊ䶧೟令ᓇ Xinjishi...... EATING (pp187–8) EATING Amigo...... Yin Ping Vietnamese Restaurant Ping Yin ENTERTAINMENT (p216) Causeway Lounge Wasabisabi Cafe One...... (see 61) Caroline Centre Windsor CinemaWindsor Chuen Cheung Kui Citysuper 18) ...... (see Forum ...... Heichinrou...... (see 54) Indonesian Restaurant1968...... Kin's Kitchen Kin's Kissho Kissho Man Fai Man Kung Tak Lam...... Noodle Mak's Mi-Nei Sushi Mi-Nei Sushi Towngas Avenue...... Xi Yan - Tastes Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant Tsui Wah Tsui Tomokazu Tomokazu Queen's Cafe...... HiroSushi Tai Ping Koon Shing Thai W's Entrecôte W's Sorabol Korean Restaurant Restaurant Korean Sorabol B3 B2 B3 B3 B3 B3 B3 B4 B3 B3 C3 C3 A3 A3 A4 A3 A4 A4 A4 D3 4 9 5 7 1 2 3 8 6 12 13 14 11 16 19 15 17 18 10 ...... (see 19) Map p74 Map ...... (see 18) 䜦な ...... (see 6) ...... (see ⾂䷧Ёᖗ ...... ⏷⬌ഞ ໽ৢᒳ ...... ⱛᅸ෵ 䞥ⱒ߽ଚจ ...... Ё༂೪᳌仼䗷वԯ 佭␃ᗵ੠ज⚂ ᰖҷᒷจ 亳䗮໽ 䛉ሔ ः䈤䡔㸠 ዛܝⱒ䉼 ␃ዊᮙᅶ䃂䀶ঞ᳡ࢭЁᖗ ✸⇷⛍亾Ёᖗ 2890 5824; www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/ls_park.php; The Noonday Gun is accessible via a The HMV...... (see 19) I.t...... (see 18) In Square...... (see 19) BeverleyIsland Mountaineering Services...... Cyber Pro Internet...... Forum Food Dada Cabaret Voltaire...... Jardine's Bazaar Kitty House Gifts Shop ...... (see 12) Lane Crawford Rainbow City ...... (see 13) Sister 13) ...... (see Sogo Central Library Library Central Hong Kong Hong Kong Island HKTB Centre HSBC Temple Hau Tin SHOPPING (pp165–6) D-Mop...... Leighton Centre Centre Cooking Towngas SIGHTS (pp73–6) Gun Noonday Spy...... Post OfficePost Square Times PCCW i.Shop...... Windsor House Windsor Walter Ma...... (see 54) Cellar Wine Watson's

INFORMATION INFORMATION CAUSEWAY BAY CAUSEWAY

VICTORIA PARK % the biggest patch of public 17 hectares, At Victoria on Hong Kong Island, greenery The place to escape to. is a popular Park best time to stroll around is in the morning during the week, when it becomes a forest punishment, Jardine’s was ordered to fire to fire punishment, Jardine’s was ordered explana- prosaic day. A more the gun every tion is that, as at many ports the around world (including London), a gun was fired at noon daily so that ships’ clocks – crucial east–west and for establishing longitude distances at sea – could be set accurately. tunnel through the basement car park in just west of the the World Trade Centre, From the taxi rank in front Excelsior Hotel. look west for the door marked of the hotel, Shroff, Marina Club & Noon Gun’. Park ‘Car It’s open from 7am to midnight daily. Causeway Rd; MTR Causeway Bay & Tin Hau Causeway Rd; MTR Causeway Bay & Tin

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CAUSEWAY BAY BAY CAUSEWAY y wa Aberdeen ram

T 74 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS HONG KONG ISLAND lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com is Kellett Island, which has been a misno- which was commonly used in Hong Kong in west to Kennedy Rd in the east. Caine Rd is the rundown on how Hong Kong coped with mer ever since a causeway connected it the days when Portuguese merchants were a northern boundary and the Peak the southern the 1984 bubonic plague, but is less interest- to the mainland in 1956, and further land force to be reckoned with on the high seas. one. But the Mid-Levels are as much a state of ing for its exhibits than for its architecture. It reclamation turned it into a peninsula. It is The area wedged between the Mid-Levels mind as a physical area, and some people re- is housed in what was once the Pathological home to the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club (%2832 and Sheung Wan doesn’t have an official name gard the middle-class residential areas further Institute, a breezy Edwardian-style brick- 2817), which retains its ‘Royal’ moniker in as such but is usually called Pok Fu Lam after east to be the Mid-Levels as well. and-tile structure built in 1905 and fronted English only. the main thoroughfare running through it. It’s a by palms and bauhinia trees. The exhibits district of middle-class housing blocks, colleges DR SUN YAT SEN MUSEUM Map p70 comparing Chinese and Western approaches TIN HAU TEMPLE Map p74 and Hong Kong’s most prestigious university. %2367 6373; www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/sysm; to medicine are unusual and instructive. %2721 2326; 10 Tin Hau Temple Rd; h7am-6pm; 7 Castle Lane, Mid-Levels; adult/concession $10/5, MTR Tin Hau (exit B) HONG KONG UNIVERSITY Map pp54–5 free after 2pm Tue; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed & OHEL LEAH SYNAGOGUE Map p70 Southeast of Victoria Park, Hong Kong %2859 2111; www.hku.hk; Pok Fu Lam Rd; g23 Fri-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; g3B, alight at the Hong %2589 2621, 2857 6095; 70 Robinson Rd; admis- Island’s most famous Tin Hau temple is rela- & 40M from D’Aguilar St in Central Kong Baptist Church on Caine Rd sion free; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Thu (by appoint- tively small and dwarfed by surrounding Established in 1911, HKU is the oldest and Sun Yat Sen was an early 20th-century ment only); g3B or 23 high-rises. Before reclamation, this temple most prestigious of Hong Kong’s eight revolutionary, dedicated to overthrowing the This renovated Moorish Romantic temple, dedicated to the patroness of seafarers universities. The Main Building, completed in Qing dynasty, and a key figure in modern completed in 1902 when that style of archi- stood on the waterfront. It has been a place the Edwardian style in 1912, is a declared Chinese history. He had many links with tecture was all the rage in Europe, is named of worship for three centuries, though the monument. Several other early-20th-cen- Hong Kong, not least of them being his edu- after Leah Gubbay Sassoon, matriarch of current structure is only about 200 years tury buildings on the campus, including the cation here and his formative experience of a wealthy (and philanthropic) Sephardic old. The temple bell dates from 1747, and Hung Hing Ying (1919) and Tang Chi Ngong Build- the colony’s order and efficiency (standing in Jewish family that traced its roots back to the central shrine contains an effigy of Tin ings (1929), are also protected. stark contrast to China at the time). The dis- the beginning of the colony. Be sure to Hau with a blackened face. % plays here are rather stodgy and worthy but T h e University Museum & Art Gallery ( 2241 bring some sort of ID if you plan to visit the Dr Sun’s story is one of the more interesting 5513; www.hku.hk/hkumag; Fung Ping Shan Bldg, 94 sumptuous interior. CENTRAL LIBRARY Map p74 Bonham Rd; admission free; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, chapters in China’s history, so it’s certainly %3150 1234; www.hkpl.gov.hk; 66 Causeway Rd; 1.30-5.30pm Sun), to the left of the university’s worth a visit. Audio guides cost $10. & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS h10am-9pm Thu-Tue, 1-9pm Wed, 10am-7pm Main Building and opposite the start of & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS some public holidays; jShau Kei Wan Hing Hon Rd, houses collections of ceram- HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL TRANSPORT – THE MID-LEVELS ics and bronzes, plus a lesser number of This architectural monstrosity, a 12-storey SCIENCES Map p70 Bus Bus 26 from Central calls along Hollywood Rd paintings and carvings. The bronzes are neoclassical-postmodern building with %2549 5123; www.hkmms.org.hk; 2 Caine (Map p68 ); bus 3B from Jardine House in Central in three groups: Shang and Zhou–dynasty Ionic columns, a Roman pediment and Lane; adult/concession $10/5, free after 2pm Tue; and bus 23 from Admiralty stop at Robinson Rd ritual vessels; decorative mirrors from the sandy-yellow tiles, is both a research and h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun; g3B alight at (Map p56 ). lending library and contains some 1.2 Warring States period to the Tang, Song, Ladder St bus stop on Caine Rd Green Minibus Bus 8 or 22 from Central call at million volumes ( p294 ). It also has some 24 Ming and Qing dynasties; and almost 1000 This small museum houses medical imple- Caine Rd and Ladder St (Map p70 ). public-access computer terminals where small Nestorian crosses from the Yuan ments and accoutrements (including an old dynasty, the largest such collection in the Central Escalator (Map p56 ) For Caine Rd (museum)

HONG KONG ISLAND you can check emails and surf the web. dentistry chair, an autopsy table, herbal- HONG KONG ISLAND world. (The Nestorians formed a Christian medicine vials and chests) and offers a and Robinson Rd (synagogue). sect that arose in Syria, were branded WESTERN DISTRICTS heretics, and moved into China during the 13th and 14th centuries.) 0 200 m Beyond Sheung Wan are the districts of Sai Ying MID-LEVELS 0 0.1 miles t Pun and Shek Tong Tsui (Map pp54–5 ) , which are S S m ta a u h often lumped together as ‘Western’ by English C S n a o Rd e to r n le y t n G d ast m Aberdeen St S Soho THE MID-LEVELS u C o it l S speakers, and Kennedy Town, a working-class Rd u e t r e W Eating p182 ; Sleeping p250 C P ynd R a ham Chinese district at the end of the tramline. d in S t e t The Mid-Levels (Map p77 ) have relatively little to S Prince's Tce R Kennedy Town’s maritime connections can d y le Victoria Prison offer tourists in the way of sights, though there el

still be felt the closer you get to the Praya (of- t Sh S

SIGHTS (pp76–7) l are a few gems, particularly houses of worship, e e 4 Pedestrian EscalatorOld Bailey St ficially Kennedy Town New Praya) – from the P Caritas House ˇª‚ ˆ...... 1 D2 7 hidden within the forest of marble-clad apart- 5 Portuguese praia meaning ‘beach’ or ‘coast’, Jamia Mosque —' ß‰ ˙ ¸´ ...... 2 C2 d ment blocks. Check out the Roman Catholic Cathe- Roman Catholic Cathedral of the M R

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Immaculate Conception Pok Fu Lam sq Leung Fai Tce o R

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Sin Sin Fine Art...... 4 C1 s 16 Caine Rd), built in 1888 and financed largely by A TRANSPORT – WESTERN on R the Portuguese faithful from Macau; the Jamia EATING (p182) d 8 DISTRICTS Orange Tree...... 5 C1 Mosque (Map p77 ; %2526 0786; 30 Shelley St), erected in 3 1849 and also called the Lascar Mosque; and SLEEPING (pp250–2) Bus Bus 3B from Jardine House in Central, bus Bishop Lei International House 1 Rd t 23, 40 or 40M from Admiralty, and bus 103 from the Ohel Leah Synagogue (opposite ) . er ”Œ»ø łºH e ^ ...... 6 D2 6 lb A Gloucester Rd in Causeway Bay all stop along Another district with rather elastic bounda- Daisy Court...... 7 C1 er Hong ow Kong Lily Court...... 8 C2 L ries, the Mid-Levels stretches roughly from aly Zoological Bonham Rd (Map p70 ). Peach Blossom...... 9 C2 Glene & Botanical Hong Kong University and Pok Fu Lam in the Gardens 76 77 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com For information on the 50km-long Hong busy during the Maidens’ Festival held on The first horse races were held in 1846 at THE PEAK Kong Trail, which starts on the Peak, see p225 . the seventh day of the seventh moon (mid- Happy Valley and became an annual event. Eating p183 August). The easiest way to reach here is to Now meetings are held both here and at On your first clear day in Hong Kong, make take green minibus 24A from the Admiralty the newer and larger (but less atmospheric) tracks for the cooler climes of the Peak (Map PEAK GALLERIA Map pp54–5 bus station. Get off at the terminus (Shiu Sha Tin Racecourse ( p125 ) in the New Territories. pp54–5 ), the highest point on the island. Not 118 Peak Rd; jPeak Tram Both the Peak Tower and the neighbouring Fai Tce) and walk up the path behind the For details on placing bets, see p230 . only is the view one of the most spectacular housing complex. cityscapes in the world, it’s also a good way to Peak Galleria are designed to withstand If you know nothing about horse racing put Hong Kong and its layout into perspec- winds of up to 270km/h, theoretically more but would like to attend, consider join- tive. Repeat the trip up on a clear night; the than the maximum velocity of a No 10 POLICE MUSEUM Map pp54–5 ing the Come Horseracing Tour available views of illuminated Central below and Tsim typhoon. You can reach the Peak Galleria’s %2849 7019; www.police.gov.hk/hkp-home through Gray Line or Splendid Tours & Travel ( p298 ) Sha Tsui across the harbour in Kowloon are viewing deck, which is larger than the one /english/museum; 27 Coombe Rd; admission free; during the racing season. The tour includes superb. in the Peak Tower, by taking the escalator h2-5pm Tue, 9am-5pm Wed-Sun; g15 or 15B, admission to the Visitors’ Box of the Hong The Peak has been the place to live in Hong to level 3. Inside the centre you’ll find a alight at the stop btwn Stubbs Rd & Peak Rd Kong Jockey Club Members’ Enclosures and Kong ever since the British arrived. Taipans number of expensive restaurants and retail Housed in a former police station, this buffet lunch. Tours scheduled at night last (company bosses) built summer houses here shops, from art galleries to duty-free stores. seldom-visited museum in neighbouring about 5½ hours, while daytime tours are to escape the heat and humidity. Wan Chai Gap, an attractive residential area about seven hours long. When people refer to the Peak, they gener- PEAK TOWER Map pp54–5 en route to the Peak, deals with the history Racing buffs can wallow in the history of the Hong Kong Police Force, which was ally mean the plateau (elevation 370m) with 128 Peak Rd; jPeak Tram of the place at the Hong Kong Racing Museum formed in 1844. It’s small and rather static, the seven-level Peak Tower, the huge titanium The Peak Tower, with its attractions, shops (%2966 8065; www.hkjc.com/english/museum/mu02 although the intriguing Triad Societies Gal- anvil rising above the Peak Tram terminus and restaurants, is a good place to bring _index.htm; 2nd fl, Happy Valley Stand, Wong Nai Chung lery and the very well-supplied Narcotics and containing themed venues, shops and res- the kids. On level 4 there’s an outpost of Rd; admission free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, 10am- Gallery are worthwhile. taurants; they don’t mean the summit itself. Madame Tussauds (%2849 6966; adult/child $120/70; 12.30pm on racing days), with eight galleries and Half the fun of going up to the Peak is h10am-10pm), with eerie (and scary) wax a cinema showcasing celebrated trainers, riding the Peak Tram (see boxed text, right ; see likenesses of international stars as well as jockeys and horseflesh, and key races over also p283 ). In 1885 everyone thought Phineas HAPPY VALLEY local celebrities, such as Jackie Chan, Andy Eating p188 the past 150 years. The most important & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Kyrie and William Kerfoot Hughes were mad Lau, Michelle Yeoh and Kelly Chen. There is event in the history of the Happy Valley & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS when they announced their intention to build Happy Valley (Map p74 ) – called Páau-máa-dáy an open-air viewing terrace with coin-oper- (Horse Running Place) in Cantonese – has Racecourse – individual winnings notwith- a tramway to the top, but it opened three years ated binoculars on level 5. standing – was the huge fire in 1918 that later, silencing the scoffers and wiping out the been a popular residential area for expats since the early days of British settlement, killed hundreds of people. Many of the sedan-chair trade in one fell swoop. victims were buried in the cemeteries sur- LOVER’S ROCK Map p56 though, having built their houses on what g turned out to be swampland, early residents rounding the track. VICTORIA PEAK Map pp54–5 Off Bowen Rd; green minibus 24A A kilometre or so northeast of the Police had to contend with severe bouts of malaria. Some 500m to the northwest of the Peak Museum is what the Chinese call Yan Yuen There are some interesting cemeteries to the Tram terminus up steep Mt Austin Rd, Sek, a phallus-shaped boulder on a bluff west and southwest of Wong Nai Chung Rd. ISLAND EAST Victoria Peak (552m) is the highest point Drinking & Nightlife p210 ; Eating p189 ; Sleeping p257 HONG KONG ISLAND at the end of a track above Bowen Rd. This They are divided into Protestant, Roman HONG KONG ISLAND on Hong Kong Island. The old governor’s Catholic, Muslim, Parsee and Hindu sec- Eastern (Map pp54–5 ) is a large district that is pri- mountain lodge near the summit was is a favourite pilgrimage site for childless marily residential, with some of Hong Kong women and those who think their lovers, tions, and date back to the founding of Hong burned to the ground by the Japanese dur- Kong as a colony. The district’s most impor- Island’s largest housing estates (eg Tai Koo ing WWII, but the gardens remain and are husbands or sons could use the help of Shing in Quarry Bay). As elsewhere on the prayer and a joss stick or two. It’s especially tant drawcard, however, is the Happy Valley open to the public. Racecourse. Happy Valley is essentially the island, however, office towers stand cheek by You can walk around Victoria Peak racetrack in the centre of circular Wong Nai jowl with residential areas. There are not as without exhausting yourself. Harlech Rd TRANSPORT – THE PEAK Chung Rd and the residential areas to the east many restaurants and nightspots in this area on the south side and Lugard Rd on the and south, where the main streets are Shan as there are in Central, Wan Chai and Cause- northern slope together form a 3.5km loop Peak Tram Join the tram at the lower terminus on Kwong, Sing Woo and Blue Pool Rds. way Bay to lure you onto the MTR’s Central that takes about an hour to walk. If you feel Cotton Tree Drive (Map p56 ). The service disgorges line, but the shopping is good and there are a like a longer walk, you can continue for a handful of top-class museums. passengers in Peak Tower (entrance level 4, exit HAPPY VALLEY RACECOURSE Map p74 further 2km along Peak Rd to Pok Fu Lam level 3). The Eastern District runs from Causeway Reservoir Rd, which leaves Peak Rd near the %2895 1523, 2966 8111; www.happyvalleyrace Bay to Siu Sai Wan, at the eastern end of Hong car-park exit. This goes past the reservoir Bus Bus 15 from Central bus terminus below course.com; 2 Sports Rd; Races usually held Sep-Jun Exchange Square (Map p56 ), bus 15B from Wan Chai Kong Island’s north coast. Major settlements to the main Pok Fu Lam Rd, where you can on Wed & weekends (1st race 7.30pm); jHappy are North Point, Quarry Bay, Sai Wan Ho, get bus 7 to Aberdeen or back to Central. and Causeway Bay (Map p65 ) via Police Museum, Valley Caine Rd and Ladder St all terminate at the bus Shau Kei Wan and Chai Wan. Another good walk leads down to Hong Horse racing, worth more than US$1 billion Kong University ( p76 ). First walk to the west station below the Peak Galleria. annually, remains the most popular form of side of Victoria Peak by taking either Lu- Green Minibus Bus 1 from Edinburgh Pl (southeast gambling in Hong Kong and it is one of the North Point & Quarry Bay gard or Harlech Rds. After reaching Hatton of City Hall) in Central and bus 24A from Admiralty quintessential things to do while you’re in North Point, settled largely by Shanghainese Rd, follow it down. The descent is steep, terminate at the Peak. town. The punters pack into the stands and after WWII, is a somewhat down-at-heel dis- but the path is clear. trackside, and the atmosphere is electric. trict with a couple of interesting markets, and 78 79 lonelyplanet.com To reach the museum take the MTR to everything from Big Wave Bay and Shek O lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT – ISLAND EAST Shau Kei Wan station (exit B2). Then follow in the east to Aberdeen and Ap Lei Chau the museum signs on busy Tung Hei Rd for in the west, is full of attractions. At times it MTR Central line from Causeway Bay. about 15 minutes. Bus 85, which is accessi- can feel like Hong Kong Island’s backyard Tram A more atmospheric alternative to the MTR, clatters sedately from Western Market ( p70 ) in Sheung Wan to ble via exit A3 and runs along Shau Kei Wan playground – from the beaches of Repulse Shau Kei Wan. Rd between North Point and Siu Sai Wan, Bay and Deep Water Bay and the outdoor stops on Tung Hei Rd outside the museum. activities available at Shek O, to Stanley North Point & Quarry Bay Market, the shoppers’ paradise, and Ocean Park, the large amusement and theme park MTR By far the easiest way to reach this area is to use the Island line with stations at North Point, Quarry Bay, Tai Koo, Chai Wan near Aberdeen. Sai Wan Ho, Shau Kei Wan, Heng Fa Chuen and Chai Wan. North Point and Quarry Bay are also on Tseung Kwan O line. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM Map pp54–5 Shek O lies halfway down a long peninsula Bus North Point: To get to the North Point Ferry bus terminus from Tsim Sha Shui take bus 110 that runs down %2896 7006; www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/cs_mus_lcsd in the southeast of Hong Kong Island; Stanley Canton Rd. From the south of the island, bus 38 comes from Aberdeen bus terminus (by the promenade) or bus 77 .php; 14 Kut Shing St; admission free; h10am- village is at the start of the next peninsula over, from Aberdeen Main Rd, which runs along King’s Rd in North Point. Bus 63 (or 65 on Sundays) comes from Stanley 6pm Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat, 1-6pm Sun; MTR Chai Wan but you’ll have to travel a bit further south to (the bus terminus is just up from the market). The only direct bus from Shek O is the 309 on Sundays that runs along This small museum, a branch of the Hong reach the best beach on Stanley peninsula. King’s Rd in North Point. Kong Museum of History dating from 1990, Further west along the southern coast is Re- is housed in two restored Hakka village Shau Kei Wan: To get to Shau Kai Wan bus terminus from Tsim Sha Shui take bus 110, which runs down Canton Rd. pulse Bay, with its ever-heaving beach, Kwun houses that have been standing in Chai From the south of the island, take bus 77 from Aberdeen Main Rd. From Stanley bus 14 passes along Stanley Village Yam shrine, lucky bridge and posh shopping Wan (Firewood Bay) – a district of nonde- Rd and takes you to Shau Kei Wan Rd close to the MTR station. From Shek O bus terminus take bus 9, which termi- complex, and then Deep Water Bay, a much script office buildings, warehouses and nates at Shau Kei Wan MTR. workers’ flats – for more than two centu- more serene beach and one of the best places p229 Tram If you’re coming from Central or Admiralty, North Point has a tram terminus, as does Shau Kei Wan, which is at ries. The quiet courtyard and surrounding in Hong Kong for wakeboarding (see ). the end of the line. bamboo groves are peaceful and evocative, Aberdeen is at the western edge of the southern coast. From here, buses return to Ferry North Point: You can reach North Point by ferry from Kwun Tong, Hung Hom and Kowloon City. and the displays – furniture, household items and farming implements – simple but the northern side of the island either through Sai Wan Ho: Ferries from Kwun Tong and Sam Ka Tsuen (by Lei Yue Mun) on the mainland arrive here. There are also charming. the Aberdeen Tunnel or Pok Fu Lam Rd along & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Kaito services operating to Tung Lung Chau via Joss House Bay (although in significant quantities only on the weekend). To reach the museum from the Chai Wan the west coast. & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS MTR station, follow exit B and walk for five Buses, and to a lesser extent green minibuses, are the best form of transport for get- the Sunbeam Theatre ( p218 ), one of the best places To reach the film archive from the Sai minutes to the west. ting to and around the southern part of Hong to see and hear Chinese opera. Tong Chong Wan Ho MTR station, follow exit A, walk Kong Island. Though some go via the Aber- St opposite the Quarry Bay MTR station has north on Tai On St and west on Lei King Rd. deen Tunnel, many buses (eg bus 6 to Stanley had a face-lift in recent years and is something ISLAND SOUTH Drinking & Nightlife p210 ; Eating p189 and Repulse Bay) climb over the hills separat- of a restaurant and nightlife strip. The main Though largely residential, the Southern ing the north and south sides of the island. It’s attraction at Quarry Bay is Cityplaza (p165 ) . Shau Kei Wan HONG KONG MUSEUM OF COASTAL District (Map pp54–5 ), which encompasses a scenic, winding ride; for the outbound trip,

HONG KONG ISLAND DEFENCE Map pp54–5 HONG KONG ISLAND Sai Wan Ho %2569 1500; www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/cs_mus_lcsd HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE Map pp54–5 .php; 175 Tung Hei Rd; adult/concession $10/5, TRANSPORT – ISLAND SOUTH %2739 2139, bookings 2734 9009, 2119 7383; admission free Wed; h10am-5pm Fri-Wed; MTR Bus Shek O: The easiest way to reach Shek O is to take bus 9 from Shau Kei Wan MTR station (exit A3). Bus 309 www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/cs_mus_lcsd.php; 50 Lei King Shau Kei Wan (Sunday and holidays only) runs here from Central, below Exchange Square. If you’re coming from Stanley, take bus Rd; admission free; hmain foyer 10am-8pm Mon- This museum doesn’t exactly sound like a 14 and change to bus 9 on Tai Tam Rd, at the junction with Shek O Rd. crowd pleaser but the displays it contains are Wed & Fri-Sun, box office noon-8pm Mon-Wed & Stanley: From Shau Kei Wan take bus 14 from Shau Kei Wan Rd, a short walk from the MTR station (exit A3). Bus 6, as much about peace as war. Part of the fun Fri-Sun, resource centre 10am-7pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 6A, 6X, 66 or 260 all leave for here from Central, below Exchange Square. 10am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun; MTR Sai Wan Ho is just to enjoy the museum’s location. It has The archive, which opened in 2001, is well been built into the Lei Yue Mun Fort (1887), Aberdeen : From Aberdeen buses 73 and 973 run to Stanley. Both from Aberdeen Main Rd and the latter from the worth a visit, even if you know nothing which took quite a beating during WWII, and bus terminus, too, by the promenade. Buses 73 and 973 also run here from Repulse Bay beach. From Tsim Sha Tsui about Hong Kong films and film-mak- has sweeping views down to the Lei Yue take bus 973 that leaves from Concordia Plaza by the science museum. Green minibus 40 (24 hours) runs from Times ing. It preserves, catalogues and studies Mun Channel and southeastern Kowloon. Square to Stanley via Tang Lung St and Yee Woo St in Causeway Bay (Map p74 ). – there are more than 6300 in the vaults Exhibitions in the old redoubt, which you Repulse Bay: From Central, below Exchange Square, take bus 6, 6A, 6X, 66 or 260. From Stanley (the terminus is just – and related material such as magazines, reach by elevator from street level, cover up from the market) take 6, 6A, 6X, 66 or 260, which go on to Central, or 73 or 973. To get here from Aberdeen take posters, records and scripts; there’s a Hong Kong’s coastal defence over six cen- bus 73 or 973 – both stop on Aberdeen Main Rd and the latter at the bus terminus, too. From Tsim Sha Tsui take bus small exhibition hall with themed exhibits turies – from the Ming and Qing dynasties, 973 that leaves from Concordia Plaza by the science museum. (opening hours vary), including videos through the colonial years and Japanese Deep Water Bay: From Central, below Exchange Square, take bus 6A, 6X or 260. From Stanley (the terminus is just up with subtitles, and a 127-seat cinema invasion, to the resumption of Chinese sov- from the market) take bus 6A, 6X or 260, which go on to Central, or 73 or 973. To get here from Aberdeen take bus (%2734 9009) that shows Hong Kong and ereignty. There’s a historical trail through 73 or 973 – both stop on Aberdeen Main Rd and the latter at the bus terminus too. From Tsim Sha Tsui take bus 973 other films here throughout the year for the casemates, tunnels and observation that leaves from Concordia Plaza by the science museum. $30 to $50. posts almost down to the coast. 80 81 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com make sure you sit on the upper deck on the Hong Kong’s original amusement park has ABERDEEN right-hand side. scrubbed up well against it’s shiny, new Disneyland competitor on Lantau (see p141 ). INFORMATION Top Deck ...... (see 5) Boats to Ap Lei Chau 1 7 12 The resurgent park has invested billions of HSBC ः䈤䡔㸠 ...... B2 Wang Jia Sha ⥟ᆊ≭...... B2 ᕔ勼㜋⌆㸫⏵...... A2 Post Office 䛉ሔ ...... 2 B2 Boats to Floating Restaurants Aberdeen dollars in revamping its rides and attrac- SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp222–31) ᕔ⍋冂㟿㸫⏵...... 13 D3 For many years Aberdeen (Map p82 ) – or Heung tions, to good effect. Visitor numbers have SIGHTS (pp82–4) Aberdeen Boat Club Boats to Floating Restaurants Gong Tsai (Little Fragrant Harbour) in Can- been soaring (thanks in part to the influx Hung Shing Shrine ⋾㘪সᒳ...... 3 B2 佭␃Ҩ䘞㠛᳗...... 8 D3 ᕔ⍋冂㟿㸫⏵...... 14 A2 tonese – was one of Hong Kong’s top tourist Tin Hau Temple ໽ৢᒳ...... 4 B1 Aberdeen Marina Club Boats to Sok Kwu Wan & Mo Tat Wan of mainland visitors) and the arrival of two 9 attractions because of the large number of ⏅☷䘞㠛ׅῖ䚼...... D3 (Lamma) & Po Toi more young pandas in 2007, a gift from the EATING (pp190–1) ᕔ㋶㔳☷ǃ῵䘨☷ǃ㪆ৄዊ㠍15 A2 people (up to 6000, in fact) who lived and TRANSPORT (pp269–86) mainland to mark Hong Kong’s 10th year of Jumbo Kingdom Floating Restaurant Boats to Yung Shue Wan (Lamma) worked on the junks and other traditional 5 Aberdeen Bus Terminus 16 independence, crowned its renaissance. ⦡ᇊ⍋冂㟿 ...... C3 ᕔὩ‍☷㠍䲏...... B2 sailing craft moored in the harbour and in Shan Loon Tse Kee Fish Ball 佭␃ҨᏈ຿㐑キ...... 10 B2 Private Sampans...... 17 B2 the Aberdeen Typhoon Shelter off Aberdeen This excellent, fully fledged amusement ቅん䃱㿬儮㲟 ...... 6 B2 Aberdeen Sampan Company Private Sampans...... 18 A2 ...... 11 A2 Praya Rd to the west. Over the years the and educational theme park has plenty of 佭␃Ҩϝ㟼݀ৌ number of boats has dwindled as more and white-knuckle rides, such as the celebrated more of these boatpeople have moved into roller coaster called the Dragon, the Abyss where there are gardens and the Hong and parallel to Aberdeen Praya Rd. You high-rises or abandoned fishing as a profes- ‘turbo drop’, and a marine park with sea Kong Jockey Club Giant Panda Habitat, can have your choice of private operators, sion. These days the busy little harbour is still lions and seals, daily dolphin and killer- home to the two new arrivals, Ying Ying which generally mill around the eastern an attractive place to explore. It is also the whale shows, and aquariums. The Atoll Reef and Le Le, and their older cousins An An end of the promenade, or licensed opera- home to popular floating restaurants ( p190 ) and to is particularly impressive, with over 2000 and Jia Jia. It is linked to the main sec- tors registered with the HKTB, such as the Ocean Park (below ) , Hong Kong’s first, and still, fish representing 200 species in residence. tion on the headland, where most of the Aberdeen Sampan Company (Map p82 ; %2873 0310; thriving, amusement park. The walk-through Shark Aquarium has hun- attractions are found, by a scenic (and Aberdeen Praya Rd). The private sampans usu- dreds of different sharks on view and scores hair-raising) cable car. The headland sec- ally charge $50 per person for a 30-minute OCEAN PARK Map pp54–5 of rays. Bird-watchers are also catered for, tion affords beautiful views of the South ride (about $100 to Sok Kwu Wan and $120 %2552 0291; www.oceanpark.com.hk; Ocean Park with aviaries, a flamingo pond and the China Sea and at the rear entrance, where to Yung Shue Wan on Lamma), though you Rd; adult/child 3-11 yr $185/93; h9.30am-8pm; Amazing Birds Theatre, with regular aerial a giant escalator will bring you down to should easily be able to bargain this down shows. Tai Shue Wan and Shum Wan Rd, is the & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS g6A, 6X, 70 & 75 from Central, 629 from Admi- if there are several of you. Ferries to several & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS ralty, 72, 72A & 92 from Causeway Bay or 973 from The park is divided into two sections. Middle Kingdom, a sort of Chinese cultural spots on Lamma also operate from the Tsim Sha Tsui The main entrance is on the lowland side, village with temples, pagodas and tradi- promenade, as well as infrequent services tional street scenes. to Stanley and Po Toi island (see the trans- 0 500 m port section for details, p275 ). ABERDEEN 0 0.3 miles Aberdeen SAMPAN TOURS Map p82 The promenade is easily accessed from Aberdeen Lower Country Reservoir Aberdeen Promenade Aberdeen bus terminus. To get to it just

e Park To Pok Fu Lam Country Park; is Aberdeen Country Park Entrance; Sampan tours can easily be arranged along take the pedestrian subway under Aber- R l Hong Kong Trail (100m) Aberdeen e e d Country Aberdeen Promenade, which runs south deen Praya Rd. P R ir Park o rv e

HONG KONG ISLAND HONG KONG ISLAND

e R

Aberdeen e e d DON’T KNOW MUCH ABOUT HISTORY r Chinese e Wong Cemetery b Chuk Main 4 A Hong Kong has a dreadful track record, which persists to this day, when it comes to preserving old buildings. Basically n Rd Hang e 4

C d if a structure sits on a ‘valuable’ piece of land (ie virtually every square centimetre of the built-up areas) or gets in the r h

Tun e Aberdeen Main To Kennedy e d

b n Town (5.5km) R A g way of progress (ie money), the wrecker’s ball brings it down, and it lives on only in old photographs and the memories g Sing Rd

t g

Old u on To Aberdeen 182 w 7 17 S K Wo Tunnel (1.6km) of a dwindling population. Aberdeen 1 t e ng Ch Abe Yu uk Ha rde Centre Main St 6 ng Rd en ing St FishFish Nam N 6 It was business as usual, then, when the colonial government announced in 1982 that Murray House, Hong Kong’s Market Ab Heu erde ng Yip Pr en 10 Rd d Rd oldest colonial building, was going to have to make room for the new Bank of China Tower. But because Murray House om P Rd enad raya 8 Main yRa 1315 14 e Rd 3 Pra To Ocean Park 111210 1618 en had a Grade 1 classification, even the government couldn’t just smash it to pieces as they had the old Hong Kong Club and 9 Aberdeenrde (Lowland Abe Aberdeen 11 1416 Section, 900m); the Central Post Office. Instead, the building would be dismantled and its more than 4000 pieces numbered and stored Typhoon Cable Car (1.3km) Shelter Aberdeen 1715 for ‘safekeeping’ and erection elsewhere. Time passed and when heritage societies demanded to know its whereabouts, Harbour Welfare Rd the government admitted it had misplaced some of the pieces.

1312 Scene and time change… It’s the mid-1990s and the government has found the missing pieces stored in crates in Tai Tam. But there’s a big problem. The limestone blocks and pillars had been wrapped in plastic sheeting and the numbers written or etched into their sides had spontaneously erased due to moisture building up on the soft stone. To its credit,

Ap Lei Chau d the government rolled up its sleeves and spent 3½ years putting the colossal puzzle back together again. And when R 92 an W they’d finished in early 2001, six columns were left over that they didn’t know what to do with. m idge Rd hu u Br Sham S As you approach Murray House, which now contains the Hong Kong Maritime Museum on the ground floor and ha 18 i C Wan 5 Nam Long Le Nam Long Ap HospitalHospital restaurants on the 1st and 2nd floors, you’ll see these idle Ionic columns standing rather forlornly off to the left along the waterfront promenade. Note, too, some of the numbers still visible on the building blocks to the right of Ap Lei To Ocean Park Chau Headland Section the entrance. (1km) 82 83 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com AP LEI CHAU Map p82 in a nicely confusing maze of alleys running built in 1859. It now contains a Wellcome hands of occupying Japanese forces. The fAp Lei Chau down to Stanley Bay. It’s best to go during supermarket. cemetery is just opposite the bus stop. On the southern side of the harbour is Ap the week; on the weekend the market is Lei Chau (Duck’s Tongue Island), one of bursting at the seams with both tourists ST STEPHEN’S BEACH & MILITARY TEMPLES & SHRINES Map p85 the most densely populated places in the and locals alike. CEMETERY Off Map p85 g6, 6A, 6X or 260 world. It used to be a centre for building g6A or 14 At the western end of Stanley Main St, past junks, but now it’s covered with housing MURRAY HOUSE Map p85 St Stephen’s Beach, which has a café, show- a tiny Tai Wong shrine and through the mod- estates, including a huge one called South Stanley Bay; g6, 6A, 6X or 260 ers and changing rooms, is south of the ern shopping complex called Stanley Plaza, Horizons. There’s not much to see there, At the start of the Chung Hom Kok penin- village. In summer you can hire windsurfing is a Tin Hau temple (119 Stanley Main St; h7am- but a walk across the bridge to the island sula across the bay from Stanley Main St, boards and kayaks from the water-sports 6pm), built in 1767 and said to be the oldest affords good views. From Aberdeen Prom- the waterfront promenade lined with bars centre (see p229 ). To reach the beach, walk building in Hong Kong. It has undergone a enade you can get a boat across to Ap Lei and restaurants, stands this three-storey south along Wong Ma Kok Rd. Turn west (ie complete renovation since then, however, Chau (adult/child under 12 $1.80/1). colonnaded affair. Built in 1848 as officers’ right) when you get to a small road (Wong and is now a concrete pile (though the quarters, it took pride of place in Central, Ma Kok Path) leading down to a jetty. interior is traditional). A sign explains that At the end of the road, turn south and TEMPLES Map p82 on the spot where the Bank of China Tower the tiger skin hanging on the wall came walk past the boathouse to the beach. Bus Aberdeen Main Rd now stands, for almost 150 years until 1982. from an animal that ‘weighed 240 pounds, 14 or 6A will take you close to the intersec- If you’ve got time to spare, a short walk It was re-erected here and opened in 2001 was 73 inches long, and three feet high tion with the small road. through Aberdeen will bring you to a after, well, a slight glitch (see boxed text, [and] shot by an Indian policeman, Mr Rur renovated Tin Hau temple (182 Aberdeen Main Rd; p83 ). Well worth a look is Stanley Military Cemetery for armed forces personnel and their fami- Singh, in front of Stanley Police Station in h8am-5pm). Built in 1851, it’s a sleepy spot, the year 1942’. but it remains an active house of worship. lies. The oldest graves date back to 1843 HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM and are an intriguing document of the co- Behind the Tin Hau temple is huge Ma Close to the harbour is a Hung Shing shrine (cnr Map p85 Hang Estate. If you go across the front of Aberdeen Main Rd & Old Main St), a chaotic collec- lonial era. The earlier graves show just how %2813 2322; www.hkmaritimemuseum.org; GF, much of a toll disease took on European the temple and follow the road, through tion of altars and smoking, ovenlike incense Murray House; adult/concession $20/10; h10am- the barriers and up the hill, you’ll reach pots. Both temples are a short walk from settlers, while the number of graves from

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS 6pm Tue-Sun; g6, 6A, 6X or 260 Kwun Yam Temple (h7am-6pm). The temple is & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Aberdeen bus terminus. the early 1940s serves as a reminder of the This small but interesting museum occu- many who died in the fight for Hong Kong on the left when you get to the rounda- pying the ground floor of Murray House and during subsequent internment at the bout at the top. Stanley consists of an ancient and a modern gallery charting the shipping history of Hong Kong 0 200 m About 15km from Central as the crow flies, STANLEY 0 0.1 miles Stanley’s (Map p85 ) attractive market, beaches, and is well worth a visit if you’ve already To Repulse Bay (3.5km); Aberdeen (9.5km) and good pubs and restaurants make it an ap- come to see Murray House. The modern Stanley Mound Rd pealing place to escape the concrete jungle. It gallery includes some fun interactive EATING (pp189–90) displays where you can test your skills at Bayside Brasserie...... 7 B2 had an indigenous population of about 2000 Boathouse ...... 8 B2 when the British took control of the territory morse code or even pilot a tanker through HONG KONG ISLAND Chilli N Spice 佭䕷ሟ ...... (see 2) HONG KONG ISLAND Hong Kong waters. 9 in 1841, making it one of the largest settle- S Lucy's...... B2 tan le 10 y Shu Zhai ...... B2 R ᳌唟

d L ments on the island at the time. A prison Stanley V d i Carmel Rd n Stanley 11 R k Toby Inn ...... B2 䌸᷅䜦ᆊ Main h was built near the village in 1937 – just in HONG KONG CORRECTIONAL c a Beach e B DRINKING (p210) SERVICES MUSEUM Map p85 y time for the Japanese to intern the build- Carmel Rd illage Rd le Tai n Tam Smugglers Inn...... 12 B2 ta ers. Stanley Prison is a maximum security %2147 3199; www.csd.gov.hk/english/hkcsm To Kwun Yam S St Bay an Pier Temple (350m) le 13 H y facility today. Hong Kong’s contingent of /hkcsm.html; 45 Tung Tau Wan Rd; admission free; L TRANSPORT (pp269–86) 6 o i i n Stanley k 14 F Minibuses to Causeway Bay British troops was housed in Stanley Fort at h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; g6, 6A, 6X or 260 Plaza u R Mar n d 12 ey ket R l d g 13 5 n ᕔ䡙䩐☷ᇣᏈ ...... B2 8 a 10 the southern end of the peninsula until 1995. With Stanley Prison so close by, it’s only St t P a S nley M a ain t Stanley Bus Terminal St h

It is now used by China’s People’s Liberation natural that there should be a museum 7 Stanley New St 䌸᷅Ꮘ຿㐑キ ...... 14 B2 Sta 9 3 nl 4 Army (PLA). There’s a beach to the north- devoted to the subject here. The museum, 2 ey M 11 T Stanley a un east of town that never gets as crowded as about 500m southeast of Stanley Village Bay in g T S au t W a the one at Repulse Bay. The most important Rd, has nine galleries that trace the his- n R d SIGHTS (pp84–5) dragon-boat races are held at Stanley dur- tory of jails, prisons and other forms of W o Hong Kong Correctional Services n ing the Dragon Boat Festival (Tuen Ng; p17 ) in incarceration in Hong Kong. The mock cells, g Museum ...... 1 D3 M 佭␃ំᬭम⠽仼 a early June. gallows and flogging stands will convince K Hong Kong Maritime Museum o k

2 R most of the error of their ways. 㚅᷼ᶏ੐ඳ‛㙚...... A2 d

Murray House 㕢߽ῧ ...... (see 2) STANLEY MARKET Map p85 Old Stanley Police Station 3 1 Stanley Village Rd; h9am-6pm; g6, 6A, 6X or 260 OLD STANLEY POLICE STATION Map p85 㟞䌸᷅䄺㕆 ...... B2 To Military Cemetery; No big bargains or big stings, just reason- 88 Stanley Village Rd; g6, 6A, 6X or 260 Stanley Market 䌸᷅Ꮦ䲚 ...... 4 B2 St Stephen’s Beach & 5 Water Sports Centre (200m); St Stephen's Tai Wong Shrine ໻⥟ᒳ ...... A2 Ferry Pier for Boats to College ably priced casual clothes (plenty of large The most interesting building in the vil- To Stanley Tin Hau Temple ໽ৢᒳ ...... 6 A2 Aberdeen & Po Toi (550m); Sportsground sizes), bric-a-brac, toys and formulaic art, all lage itself is this two-storey structure Stanley Fort (1.8km) Prison (200m) 84 85 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Shek O during the week in summer, it’s a good place KOWLOON Sometimes referred to as the ‘last real village if you like people-watching. The beach has showers and changing rooms and shade trees on Hong Kong Island’, Shek O (Map pp54–5 ) , It says something about Kowloon (Map pp88–9 ) that one of the most stirring experiences you can has one of the best beaches on the island. at the road side, but the water is pretty murky. Lifeguards keep extended hours here: from have there is to turn your back on it, stand at the waters edge and look back towards Hong Not as accessible as the beaches to the west Kong Island’s startling skyline. There’s a sense that Central’s busy but scruffier neighbour is (although it is only a 20-minute bus ride from 9am to 6pm daily from March to November (8am to 7pm on Saturday and Sunday from forever gazing enviously across the water at it. Shau Kei Wan), the beaches here are usually This is not to say you shouldn’t spend time here. It is a compelling destination containing less crowded. June to August). Middle Bay and South Bay, about 10 some of Hong Kong’s best museums, sights, hotels and shopping. It is also where you start to Shek O has all sorts of activities to keep leave behind sleek commercialism for a more absorbing and human-scale neighbourhood life you amused and out of trouble. Shek O Beach and 30 minutes to the south respectively, of markets, temples, traditional shopping streets, crumbling tenement blocks. has a large expanse of sand, shady trees to the have beaches that are usually much less The name ‘Kowloon’ is thought to have originated when the last emperor of the Song dynasty rear, showers, changing facilities and lockers crowded. for rent. It’s a good spot for swimming with passed through the area during his flight from the Mongols in the late 13th century (p20 ) . He is several platforms offshore within a netted KWUN YAM SHRINE Map ppp54–5 said to have counted eight peaks on the peninsula and concluded that there must therefore be swimming area. In the village itself there’s Repulse Bay Beach; g6, 6A, 6X or 260 eight dragons there. But the young emperor was reminded that with he himself present, there miniature golf ($13; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9am-5.30pm Towards the southeast end of Repulse Bay were actually nine dragons. Kowloon is thus derived from the Cantonese words gáu, meaning ‘nine’, and lùng, meaning ‘dragon’. Oct-Mar) and from Dragon’s Back, the 280m-high Beach is an unusual shrine to Kwun Yam. ridge to the west of the village, there’s both The surrounding area has an amazing Kowloon proper, the area ceded ‘in perpetuity’ to Britain by the Convention of Peking in 1860, paragliding and abseiling. Walking is possible assembly of deities and figures – goldfish, extends north from the waterfront as far as Boundary St in Mong Kok. It covers about 12 sq km, around Shek O Beach, though the terrain is rams, the money god and other southern but land reclamation and encroachment into the New Territories – the so-called New Kowloon – steep and the underbrush quite thick in spots. Chinese icons, as well as statues of the over the past 150-odd years has more than quadrupled its size to almost 47 sq km. You can also take advantage of several bicycle- goddess of mercy and Tin Hau. Most of the Kowloon’s most important area, Tsim Sha Tsui, has none of the slickness or sophistication rental shops (bicycles from $15 a day), includ- statues were funded by local personalities of Hong Kong Island’s Central, except within the confines of its top-end hotels. Tsimsy (as ing Tung Lok Barbecue Store (%2809 4692; hApr-Sep) and businesspeople during the 1970s. In local expats call it) is a riot of commerce and tourism set against a backdrop of crumbling in the centre of the village. front of the shrine to the left as you face tenement blocks. & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS the sea is Longevity Bridge; crossing it is sup- In general, Kowloon is unexciting architecturally. Height restrictions for buildings, due to & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS the proximity of the old Kai Tak International Airport in southeastern Kowloon, gave it a much BIG WAVE BAY Map pp54–5 posed to add three days to your life. lower skyline than that of northern Hong Kong Island, though that’s all changing – and fast. The g9 or 309 (Sun only) waterfront Hong Kong Cultural Centre in Tsim Sha Tsui was a bold (and early) stab at turning This fine and often deserted beach is THE REPULSE BAY Map pp54–5 Hong Kong into something more than a territory obsessed with wealth. The Peninsula Hotel is located 2km to the north of Shek O. To get 109 Repulse Bay Rd; g6, 6A, 6X or 260 to Big Wave Bay follow the road north out The Repulse Bay, a copy of the wonder- housed in one of Hong Kong’s greatest colonial buildings and, at night, the promenade running of town, travel past the 18-hole Shek O Golf & ful old colonial Repulse Bay Hotel, built in east and northeast along Victoria Harbour from Star Ferry pier offers a technicolour backdrop of Central and Wan Chai. There are some green spaces as well, such as Kowloon Park. Country Club (%2809 4458; Shek O Rd), then turn 1922 and bulldozed 60 years later, contains a small shopping mall and several food east at the roundabout and keep going of Austin Rd. (The area between Austin and HONG KONG ISLAND outlets, including the Verandah Restaurant KOWLOON until the road ends. TSIM SHA TSUI Jordan Rds is usually called Jordan by Hong ( p190 ). One of eight prehistoric rock carvings Drinking & Nightlife p211 ; Eating p191 ; Shopping p166 ; Kong residents, but it can still be considered discovered in Hong Kong (see p19 ) is lo- Sleeping p257 Tsim Sha Tsui here.) Chatham Rd South sepa- cated on the headland above Big Wave Bay. Deep Water Bay Tsim Sha Tsui (Map p92 ; roughly pronounced rates it from the hotels and shops of Tsim ‘jìm-sàa-jéui’ and meaning ‘Sharp Sandy Sha Tsui East and the transport hub of Hung A quiet little inlet with a beach flanked by Point’) is Hong Kong’s tourist ghetto. It is Repulse Bay shade trees, Deep Water Bay (Map pp54–5 ) is Hom. Tsim Sha Tsui’s western and southern packed with hotels and inexpensive guest- boundaries – Victoria Harbour – are lined Repulse Bay (Map pp54–5 ) is home to some of located a few kilometres northwest of Repulse houses, and the dining and drinking options Hong Kong’s richest residents, and the hills Bay; lifeguards keep the same schedule as with top-end hotels, shopping centres and are plentiful if not as glittering as the ones cultural venues. around the beach are strewn with luxury those at Repulse Bay Beach and in winter – across the water. apartment blocks. This includes the pink, ie December to February – they are on duty It’s also a shopping destination. Cloth- daily from 8am to 5pm. There are a few decent blue and yellow wavy number with a giant ing and shoe shops, restaurants, camera and places to eat and have a drink, and barbecue square hole in the middle called the Repulse electronics stores, and hotels are somehow pits at the southern end of the beach. If you Bay. This design feature was apparently added crammed into an area not much bigger than 1 want a dip in the water, this spot is usually on the advice of a feng shui expert. sq km. Around Ashley, Hankow and Lock Rds less crowded than Repulse Bay. Opposite the The long beach with tawny sand at Repulse is a warren of shops, restaurants and bars. It’s beach is the nine-hole Deep Water Bay Golf Club K O W L O O N Bay – Chin Shui Wan (Shallow Water Bay) in a fun area to wander around, particularly in (see p224 ). Deep Water Bay Beach is a centre Star Ferry (p273) Cantonese – is the most popular one on Hong the evening. Nightlife areas include Knutsford Kong Island. Packed on the weekend and even for wakeboarding (see p229 ). Avenue of the Stars evening lightshow ( p95 ) Tce and, most recently, Minden Ave. Afternoon Tea at the Peninsula ( p91 ) The hotel and shopping district of Tsim Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade ( p95 ) Sha Tsui (‘Tsimsy’ to locals) lies at the very Hong Kong Museum of Art ( p90 ) tip of the Kowloon Peninsula to the south 86 87 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS KOWLOON 89 d g R on T Lei Yue n Bay u To Kwun w

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Lai Chi Kok Lai Chi Kok m Sha To Mainland China KOWLOON KOWLOON 88 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS KOWLOON lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 2085-seat concert hall, a Grand Theatre that PENINSULA HONG KONG Map p92 KOWLOON seats 1750, a studio theatre for up to 535, %2920 2888; www.peninsula.com; cnr Salisbury & INFORMATION SHOPPING (pp166–70) Thai Farm Restaurant rehearsal studios and an impressive foyer. Nathan Rds; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui Country & Marine Parks Authority Festival Walk জϔජ...... 12 D1 亯虙ބϞ綟೦...... 23 F4 The concert hall even has a Rieger Orgel- More than a Hong Kong landmark, the 䚞䞢݀೦ঞ⍋ኌ݀೦ㅵ⧚ሔ ...... 1 B1 Golden Computer Arcade Wong Chun Chun Thai Restaurant bau pipe organ (with 8000 pipes and 93 2 13 24 Peninsula, in the throne-like building HSBC ः䈤䡔㸠 ...... C1 咗䞥䳏㜺ଚจ...... B1 咗⦡⦡⋄೟㦰仼...... G4 stops), one of the largest in the world. On Post Office 䛉ሔ ...... 3 C1 Hong Kong Records 佭␃ଅ⠛....(see 12) opposite the Hong Kong Space Museum, Post Office 䛉ሔ ...... 4 G4 New Capital Computer Plaza ENTERTAINMENT (pp217–18) the building’s south side is the beginning is one of the world’s great hotels ( p257 ). ᮄ催ⱏ䳏㜺ᒷจ...... 14 C1 AMC Festival Walk of a viewing platform from where you can Though it was being called ‘the finest hotel SIGHTS (pp87–103) Page One...... (see 12) জϔජAMC...... (see 12) admire Victoria Harbour and the skyline of 25 east of Suez’ just a few years after opening Apliu Street Market HITEC Rotunda ೟䱯ሩ䊓Ёᖗ...... G2 Central and gain access to the Tsim Sha Tsui 勼ᇂ㸫 ...... 5 B2 EATING (pp191–5) Ko Shan Theatre 催ቅ࡛จ ...... 26 E4 in 1928, the Peninsula was in fact one of Cattle Depot Artists Village Chong Fat Chiu Chow Restaurant East Promenade and Avenue of the Stars ( p95 ). several prestigious hostelries across Asia 15 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (p229) ⠯Ắ㮱㸧ᴥ ...... 6 F3 ࡉⱐ╂Ꮂ仃ᑫ...... G4 where everybody who was anybody stayed, City University of Hong Kong Friendship Thai Food Festival Walk Glacier 佭␃ජᏖ໻ᅌ ...... 7 D1 ট䂐⋄೟㦰仼...... 16 G4 জϔජℵ໽䲾ഄ...... (see 12) NATHAN ROAD Map p92 lining up with (but not behind) the likes of Hong Kong Baptist University (Shaw Golden Orchid Thai MTR Tsim Sha Tsui the Raffles in Singapore, the Peace (then Campus) 䞥㰁㢅⋄೟㦰仼...... 17 G4 SLEEPING (p264) Kowloon’s main thoroughfare was named the Cathay) in Shanghai and the Strand in 佭␃⍌᳗໻ᅌ䘌໿᷵೦ ...... 8 E1 Hot Basil Thai Cuisine...... 18 G4 Anne Black Guest House Kowloon Walled City Park Islam Food ⏙ⳳ⠯㙝仼 ...... 19 G5 ཇ䴦ᶣ丣䴆ᮃ...... 27 D3 after Sir Matthew Nathan, governor of Rangoon (now Yangon). б啡ᆼජ݀೦ ...... 9 F1 Mak's Noodle Caritas Lodge ᯢᛯ䊧仼...... 28 D2 Hong Kong from 1904 to 1907. As Kow- Taking afternoon tea ($240; h2-7pm) at the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum 呹༔䳆৲咉Ϫᆊ...... 20 B3 Hong Kong Youth Hostels Association loon was very sparsely populated at the Peninsula is one of the best experiences 10 21 29 ᴢ䜁ሟ⓶๧म⠽仼 ...... B1 Mega Box ...... H3 佭␃䴦ᑈᮙ㟡न᳗...... C1 time and such a wide boulevard thought in town – dress neatly and be prepared to Wonderful World of Whampoa Palm Court ẩ₮䭷...... 22 D3 咗ඨᮄ໽ഄ ...... 11 E5 Taste...... (see 12) TRANSPORT (pp269–86) unnecessarily extravagant, it was dubbed queue for a table. Bus Stops Ꮘ຿キ...... 30 G4 ‘Nathan’s Folly’. Banyans line the road at the northern end near Austin Rd, but the KOWLOON PARK Map p92 trees that once lined the rest of the street % reach the museum from the Tsim Sha Tsui 2724 3344; www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/ls_park.php; HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART and can be seen in not-so-old photographs 22 Austin Rd; h5am-midnight; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station, take exit E and walk south were removed in 1976 when the MTR’s first Map p92 & Jordan down Nathan Rd. line was being built. & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS %7221 0116; www.lcsd.gov.hk/hkma; 10 Salisbury Built on the site of a barracks for Indian sol- & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Though lacking any tourist sights as such, Rd; adult/concession $10/5, admission free Wed; diers in the colonial army, Kowloon Park is the lower end of this boulevard is a sight in h10am-6pm Fri-Wed, to 8pm Sat; fStar Ferry FORMER KCR CLOCK TOWER Map p92 an oasis of greenery and a refreshing escape itself. This ‘ Golden Mile’ is an iconic Hong To the southeast of the Hong Kong Cultural Tsim Sha Tsui Public Pier; fStar Ferry from the hustle and bustle of Tsim Sha Tsui. Centre, the Hong Kong Museum of Art has Immediately east of Star Ferry pier, this Kong scene, but not for the opulence sug- gested by the name. In fact it is a chaotic Pathways and walls crisscross the grass, seven galleries spread over six floors, exhib- 44m-high clock tower (1915) was once part scrum of tenement blocks stacked with birds hop around in cages, and towers and iting Chinese antiquities, Chinese fine art, of the southern terminus of the Kowloon– seedy guesthouses awkwardly rubbing ancient banyan trees dot the landscape. historical pictures and contemporary Hong Canton Railway (KCR). Operations moved to shoulders with top-end hotels; touts selling There’s an aviary (h6.30am-6.45pm Mar-Oct, Kong art, and hosting temporary interna- the modern train station at Hung Hom to ‘copy’ watches; tailors plying their trade on 6.30am-5.45pm Nov-Feb) and a Chinese Garden and tional exhibitions. the northeast in late 1975. The station was

KOWLOON Sculpture Walk, featuring works by local art- KOWLOON The seventh gallery houses the Xubaizhi street corners; and pavements chock-a-block demolished in 1978, though you can see ists. Kung Fu Corner, a display of traditional collection of painting and calligraphy. with consumers scurrying from one shop to a scale model of what it looked like if you Chinese martial arts, takes place here from Highlights include some exquisite ceramics another. Anyone who chooses to stay (see visit the Hong Kong Railway Museum ( p120 ) in Tai 2.30pm to 4.30pm on Sunday. The reno- in the Chinese Antiques Gallery, the Historical Pic- p257 )at Chungking Mansions, Mirador Man- Po in the New Territories. % tures Gallery, with its 18th- and 19th-century sion or Golden Crown Guest House will have vated Kowloon Park Swimming Complex ( 2724 Western-style paintings of Macau, Hong this frenetic scene at their very doorstep. 3577; adult/concession $19/9; houtdoor 6.30am-10pm Kong and Guangzhou, and the Gallery of Chi- HONG KONG CULTURAL CENTRE with 1hr close at noon & 5pm Apr-Oct, indoor 6.30am- nese Fine Art, which combines contemporary Map p92 9.30pm with 1hr close at noon & 5pm Nov-Mar) is com- Chinese art and 20th-century collections %2734 2009; www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/CulturalService TRANSPORT – TSIM SHA TSUI plete with four pools and waterfalls. Visit on /HKCC; 10 Salisbury Rd; h9am-11pm; fStar a weekday; on weekends there are so many of painting and calligraphy from Guang- MTR Tsim Sha Tsui station (Map p92 ) on the Tsuen bathers it’s difficult to find the water. dong. Audio guides are available for $10, Ferry Wan line empties onto both sides of Nathan Rd. and there are free English-language tours The odd, wave-like (and virtually window- There’s also a long tunnel linking it with Tsim Sha at 11am and 4pm Sunday to Wednesday less) building clad in pink ceramic tiles Tsui East KCR station (although a couple of travela- HONG KONG SPACE MUSEUM & and Friday, and at 3pm, 4pm and 5pm on behind the clock tower and opposite Star tors make it less of a schlepp). THEATRE Map p92 Saturday. House is the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, %2721 0226; www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum KCR East Tsim Sha Tsui station (Map p94 ) is the When your feet get tired, take a seat in one of Hong Kong’s most distinctive – if /Space/index.htm; 10 Salisbury Rd; adult/conces- terminus of the KCR East Rail. the hallway and enjoy the harbour views. not loved – landmarks. It opened in 1989 sion $10/5, admission free Wed; h1-9pm Mon Or head for the Museum Café. The Museum and was compared with everything from Star Ferry Pier (Map p92 ) at western end of & Wed-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat, Sun & public holidays; Bookshop sells a wide range of books, prints a cheaply tiled public toilet to a road-side Salisbury Rd. fStar Ferry and cards. Salisbury Gardens, which leads to petrol station. Macau Ferries China ferry terminal (Map p92 ) on Just east of the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, the museum entrance, is lined with sculptures Its controversial design notwithstanding, Canton Rd. this golf-ball-shaped building consists of the by contemporary Hong Kong sculptors. To the centre is a world-class venue, with a Hall of Space Science, the Hall of Astronomy 90 91 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 0 300 m TSIM SHA TSUI 0 0.2 miles TSIM SHA TSUI Austin Rd INFORMATION Sam's Tailor ...... (see 72) SLEEPING (pp257–60) 33 1 62 1010 CSL...... B2 Star Computer City ...... (see 17) BP International Hotel 2 31 62 Hillwood Rd Citibank 㢅᮫䡔㸠 ...... D2 Swindon Books 䖄㸱೪᳌݀ৌ...... C3 啡෵೟䱯䜦ᑫ...... C1 81 Hang Seng Bank ᘚ⫳䡔㸠 ...... 3 C3 Tom Lee Music Company...... (see 50) Chungking House 䞡ᝊ᢯ᕙ᠔ ..(see 63) Hong Kong Dolphinwatch Travellers' Home ...... 32 C3 Chungking Mansions 䞡ᝊ໻ॺ... 63 D3 佭␃⍋䈮㾔ᆳ ...... (see 17) Travelmax ...... (see 25) 58 59 Cosmic Guest House ᅛᅭ䊧仼..(see 72) 4 Tse Sui Luen 䃱⨲味⦴ᇊ...... 33 D1 ) HSBC ः䈤䡔㸠 ...... B4 First-Class Guest House...... (see 72) te iva 5 Up Date Mall...... 34 D3 Tsim 36 (Pr HSBC ः䈤䡔㸠 ...... D2 Garden Guest House...... (see 63) Rd Sha Observatory www.izzue.com...... 35 C3 Tce HSBC ः䈤䡔㸠 ...... 6 D3 Garden Hostel 㢅೦ᮙ仼...... (see 72) Tsui Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium 26 Knutsford Kowloon HKTB Centre Golden Crown Court ...... 64 D3 7 㺩㧃೟䉼 ...... 36 C1 d ᮙᅶ䃂䀶ঞ᳡ࢭЁᖗ ...... B4 Holiday Inn Golden Mile 22 ley R ᮹䜦ᑫ...... 65 D3؛China Hong 8 Kimber Pacific Coffee Company ...... (see 26) 佭␃䞥ඳ Kong City 42 Chinese St EATING (pp191–3) Aviary Garden 23 19 erley PCCW i.Shop...... 8 D2 Hong Kong Hotels Association Kimb Gateway 75 66 Peninsula Academy...... (see 74) Arirang 䰓䞠ᳫ ...... (see 25) 佭␃䜦ᑫὁन᳗...... (see 10) Arcade d Arirang ille R Shadowman Cyber Cafe...... 9 C3 Chungking Mansions Hotel Miramar Hong Kong Kowloon Granv 20 Park Nathan Rd Silvercord Towers & Shopping 䞡ᝊ໻ॺ...... (see 63) 㕢呫㧃䜦ᑫ...... 66 D2 1 Hau Fok St 37 Marco Polo 50 Centre ...... 10 C3 Citysuper...... B2 Hung Kiu Guest House 60 To Mainland Prince 71 n La Eastern Palace Chiu Chow Restaurant amero Sincerity Travel/Hong Kong Student 㱍‟ᮙ仼...... (see 72) China C Rd 79 eron ᵅ䩒䭷 ...... (see 70) 5 Cam Travel ∌ᅝᮙ䘞 ...... (see 17) Kowloon Hotel Hong Kong 37 15 Felix ...... 38 D4 77 Tsim Sha Tsui Post Office б啡䜦ᑫ...... 67 D3 47 54 ve t A Harbour Ave d Pra ᇪ≭੔䛉ሔ ...... 11 D3 Golden Bull 䞥⠯㢥...... (see 25) City eys R Kyoto Guest House Ҁ䛑ᮙ仼.....(see 63) Humphr 39 Haiphong Rd n Watertours ...... (see 17) Hutong 㚵ৠ...... C3 Langham Hotel Hong Kong Marco Polo 2 vo Gateway Haiphong 18 29 ar Hanoi Rd Jimmy's Kitchen ...... 40 C3 Lock Rd 64 rn Wing Hoi Money Exchange...... (see 72) ...... 68 C3 10 Road 32 a 佭␃ᳫᓋ䜦ᑫ 69 Tsim C Kyozasa ...... 41 C3 Market 44 28 C Ҁㄍሙ䜦ሟ Man Hing Lung Hotel...... (see 72) 27 Canton Rd Sha o 40 rn SIGHTS (pp87–94) 42 To Central Tsui 72 w Mak's Noodle 呹༔䳆৲咉Ϫᆊ..... B2 Marco Polo Gateway 45 56 all 41 d Former Marine Police Headquarters Spring Moon ...... 43 C4 69 A Mody R ௝味ῧ 侀ৃᄯ㕙␃࿕䜦ᑫ...... B3 v A 31 K 53 65 30 e M 12 s 44 o in ࠡ∈䄺㐑䚼 ...... C4 Weinstube ...... C3 h Tsim de Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel w n A l v e 9 e l Sha 34 45 o y Hong Kong Museum of Art Wellcome ᚴᒋ...... C3 ...... 70 B4 39 o Tsui 21 63 佭␃侀હᄯ㕙䜦ᑫ 68 n 80 46 13 R Peking Rd 佭␃㮱㸧仼 ...... D4 Wu Kong Shanghai Restaurant Marco Polo Prince P d 73 Ocean a 24 61 Signal Hong Kong Space Museum & Theatre 46 35 r Ⓚ∳໻仃ᑫ...... D3 71 51 k 3 52 Hill 侀ৃᄯ㕙໾ᄤ䜦ᑫ...... B2 Centre 6 14 D & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS 82 佭␃໾ぎ仼...... D4 Yummy Vietnamese Restaurant & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Hankow Rd 11 Garden Mei Lam Guesthouse r 57 67 Kowloon Mosque & Islamic Centre ...... 47 C2 Middle Rd ੇՇሙ 㕢呫䛑䊧仼...... (see 72) 55 15 74 б啡⏙ⳳᇎ ...... C2 Mirador Mansion 㕢呫䛑໻ᒜ ...... 72 D3 78 16 ENTERTAINMENT 48 76 Sculptures 䲩ล...... D4 New Shanghai Guest House 25 70 48 Ocean 43 38 Grand Ocean Cinema...... C4 ᮄϞ⍋䊧仼...... (see 63) Terminal 12 SHOPPING (pp166–9) Star 17 isbury Rd Hari's ໣߽৻ ...... (see 65) House Sal Park Guest House ⱒῖ䊧仼 ...... (see 63) Alan Chan Creations ...... (see 74) Hong Kong Cultural Centre New World Peking Guest House ࣫Ҁ䊧仼..... 73 D3 Centre Chinese Arts & Crafts 49 Victoria 83 14 Salisbury 佭␃᭛࣪Ёᖗ...... C4 Peninsula Hong Kong Harbour Gardens Ё㮱˄佭␃˅᳝䰤݀ৌ ...... 17 C4 Tom Lee Music Company Centre 49 16 佭␃ञዊ䜦ᑫ...... 74 C3 7 Curio Alley ...... 18 C3 䗮߽⨈㸠...... 50 D2 4 Royal Pacific Hotel & Towers 13 Hotel Inter- David Chan Photo Shop ⱛᆊ໾ᑇ⋟䜦ᑫ...... 75 B2 Continental 䱇⚬Ⳍ″ ...... 19 D2 DRINKING (p211) Hong Kong Salisbury 佭␃෎ⴷᬭ䴦ᑈ᳗...... 76 C4 Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop Aqua Spirit...... 51 C3 KOWLOON Sealand House ⍋ᗵ䊧仼...... 77 D2 KOWLOON ⽣㣫ූ ...... 20 B2 Bar...... (see 38) Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers To Central To Wan Chai Giga Sports...... (see 25) Delaney's...... 52 C3 78 HMV...... 21 C3 Mes Amis...... 53 C3 佭␃୰՚ⱏ䜦ᑫ...... D3 I.T...... 22 D2 New Wally Matt Lounge...... 54 D2 Tom's Guest House...... (see 63) Traveller Services...... (see 26) and the large Space Theatre, one of the KOWLOON MOSQUE & ISLAMIC King Fook ᱃⽣⦴ᇊ...... 23 D2 Sky Lounge...... 55 D3 Travellers Hostel...... (see 63) largest planetariums in the world. Exhibits Map p92 King Sing Jewellery Tony's Bar...... 56 D3 CENTRE Welcome Guest House...... (see 63) ᱃ᯛ⦴ᇊ݀ৌ ...... (see 17) (include a lump of moon rock, rocket-ship %2724 0095; 105 Nathan Rd; h5am-10pm; MTR Wonderful Inn 䞥ݴ䊧仼...... (see 72 KS Ahluwalia & Sons...... 24 C3 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp222–31) models and NASA’s 1962 Mercury space Yan Yan Guest House Tsim Sha Tsui Lane Crawford 䗷वԯ ...... 25 B4 Hong Kong Jockey Club ...... (see 63) capsule. North of the intersection of Nathan and Miramar Shopping Centre 佭␃䋑侀᳗...... 57 C3 ⃷⃷䊧仼 26 Kowloon Park Sports Centre It’s not a compelling museum (the Sci- Haiphong Rds, the Kowloon Mosque & 㕢呫㧃ଚจ ...... D1 TRANSPORT (pp269–86) Ocean Optical U਻㦖౏࿦㜚⢒㙚...... 58 C1 ence Museum has a lot more to offer) but China Ferry Terminal Ё␃⺐丁.....79 A2 Islamic Centre is the largest Islamic house ⍋⋟ⴐ䦵᳝䰤݀ৌ ...... 27 B3 Kowloon Park Swimming Complex China Travel Service ...... 80 D3 if it’s raining, a standby option is the Space of worship in Hong Kong. The present Ocean Sky Divers ...... 28 C3 б啡݀೦␌⋇∴...... 59 C1 ⍋໽┯∈ Cross-Border Coach Terminus (Buses Om International...... 29 D3 Kung Fu Corner ࡳ໿䭷 ...... (see 60) Theatre, which screens ‘sky shows’ and building, with its dome and carved marble, to China) 䎼๗Ꮘ຿㐑キ...... 81 C1 Page One...... (see 35) Sculpture Walk 䲩ลᕥ...... 60 C2 Omnimax films on a massive screen; lasting was completed in 1984 to serve the territo- Eternal East Cross Border Coach Premier Jewellery Wing Chun Yip Man Martial Arts ∌ᵅⳈᏈ...... 82 C3 about 40 minutes, they are mostly in Can- ry’s 70,000-odd Muslims, more than half of ᛯᇊ⦴ᇊ᳝䰤݀ৌ ...... 30 D3 Athletic Association Star Ferry Bus Terminal tonese, but translations by headphones are 㨝ଣ೟㸧㐑᳗...... 61 D3 whom are Chinese, and can accommodate ໽᯳ᇣ䓾Ꮘ຿㐑キ...... 83 C4 available. The first show is at 1.30pm week- 2000 worshippers. It occupies the site of days (12.20pm Saturday, 11.10am Sunday), a mosque built in 1896 for Muslim Indian the last at 8.30pm. Tickets are $32/16 for troops. OCEAN TERMINAL Map p92 office complex. At its western end is the adults/concession ($24/12 in the front Muslims are welcome to attend services %2118 8668; www.harbourcity.com.hk; Salisbury entrance to Ocean Terminal, the long build- stalls); children under three are not allowed but non-Muslims should ask permission Rd; h11.30am-9pm; fStar Ferry ing jutting into the harbour. It is part of the entry. Advance bookings can be made by to enter. Do remember to remove your To the north of the clock tower is Star House massive Harbour City shopping complex phone up to one hour before show time. footwear. (3 Salisbury Rd), a frayed-looking retail and that stretches for half a kilometre north 92 93 lonelyplanet.com along Canton Rd and offers priceless views are none of the old, crumbling buildings of very seaworthy, the ‘ship’ – 100m long and lonelyplanet.com of Tsim Sha Tsui’s western waterfront. ‘real’ Tsim Sha Tsui here – and like most re- four decks tall – is impressive and works very TRANSPORT – TSIM SHA TSUI The stunning blue-and-white colonial claimed areas, it has that soulless, artificial feel well for what it was intended to be: a shop- structure on the hill above where Canton that will take decades to remove. But two of ping centre with retail outlets, restaurants, a EAST & HUNG HOM and Salisbury Rds meet is the former Marine Hong Kong’s most important museums are cinema, and a playground on the top deck. MTR Take the Tsuen Wan line to Tsim Sha Tsui Police Headquarters, built in 1884. Following here, and it offers an excellent vantage point Tsim Sha Tsui East is defined by Chatham station (Map p92 ). a lengthy redevelopment of the site, new from which to admire the harbour and the Rd South to the west and Salisbury Rd to the KCR East Tsim Sha Tsui and Hung Hong stations shops, cafés and restaurants, together with Hong Kong Island skyline. south. The limit to the east is Hong Chong (Map p94 ) are on the KCR East Rail. a luxury hotel, should be open on the site Among the features of Hung Hom, the Rd, backed by the Hong Kong Coliseum and by the time you read this. contiguous district to the northeast, are the Hung Hom train station. To the north it ends Ferry Star Ferries run from Central and Wan Chai to massive KCR East Rail station, on Wan Rd; at Cheong Wan Rd. the Hung Hom ferry pier (Map p94 ). the 12,500-seat Hong Kong Coliseum (%2355 7234; 9 Hung Hom is further to the north and TSIM SHA TSUI EAST & Cheong Wan Rd), which hosts concerts and sport- northeast and divided by the Hung Hom By- ing events; the Hong Kong Polytechnic University pass into two parts: the station and coliseum boards, a brave but ultimately lacklustre HUNG HOM (%2766 5100; Hong Chong Rd), opposite the station; on the west side and residential Hung Hom effort to celebrate Hong Kong’s film and TV Drinking & Nightlife p211 ; Eating p193 ; Sleeping p260 and one of the strangest shopping venues in to the east. industry. The large triangular chunk of land east and the territory, the Wonderful World of Whampoa (Map The promenade officially starts at the northeast of Tsim Sha Tsui proper (Map p94 ), pp88–9 ; %2128 7710; www.whampoaworld.com; 18 Tak TSIM SHA TSUI EAST PROMENADE New World Centre shopping centre and built entirely on reclaimed land, is a cluster of Fung St; h10am-10pm), a full-scale concrete model Map p94 runs parallel to Salisbury Rd almost to the shopping centres, hotels and theatres. There of a luxury cruise liner. While presumably not fStar Ferry Hong Kong Coliseum and Hung Hom train One of the finest city skylines in the world station, but you can walk along the water 0 300 m all the way from Star Ferry pier in order to TSIM SHA TSUI EAST & HUNG HOM 0 0.2 miles has to be that of Hong Kong Island, and the 31 gain access to it. It gets especially crowded A Au promenade here is one of the best ways to u stin st d in 47 R during the Chinese New Year fireworks A d Hong Kong R get an uninterrupted view. It’s a lovely place ve Polytechnic g n Metropolis displays in late January/early February and University o to stroll during the day but comes into its Hillwood Rd h Mall C in June during the Dragon Boat Festival ( p17 ). Hung Hom g own at night, during the nightly Symphony n o & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS 4 H of the Stars, a spectacular sound-and-light ) HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY te Chatham Ct 3 Concordia show involving 20 buildings on the Hong iva Pr Plaza 2 d ( 18 Kong Island skyline from 8pm to 8.20pm. Map p94 ry R 44 O o 6 bservat 13 b S O se c d 27 rv ie R 26 34 Along the first part of the promenade is %2724 9042; www.hk.history.museum; 100 a n t 8 24 Knutsford Tce15 ory c 39 R e n d a 32 M the Avenue of the Stars, which pays homage to Chatham Rd South; adult/concession $10/5, admission Rd u W erley 5 se Kimb t u g the Hong Kong film industry and its stars, free Wed; h10am-6pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am-7pm 36 S m n Nathan Rd y e o erl 14 Chatham Rd South imb e Rd R e K ill d h with handprints, sculptures and information Sun & public holidays; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit B2) anv Gr C 7 12 t 10 G c 11 Energy Plaza Chinachem r C Golden Plaza a ville 16 Hong Kong n International

41 Sq d Mail Centre TSIM SHA TSUI EAST & HUNG HOM Hau Fok St Granville Tsim R ass Hotel Nikko Byp 45 Sha Tsui dy om SIGHTS (pp94–6) 15 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (p230) KOWLOON La o Hongkong Hung H Fook Lam Moon ⽣㞼䭔 ...... B1 KOWLOON ron 46 East M Came 38 Peninsula Avenue of the Stars ᯳ܝ໻䘧...... 1 B4 Gomitori ...... 16 B2 Kowloon Cricket Club б啡᳼⧗᳗31 A1 Rd Centre Regal 33 Ѩੇ効ሙ䜦ሟ on Camer Kowloon Hong Kong Antiquities & Monuments Good Satay དᰖ≭ெ...... 17 B2 Ave Hotel Prat Office ...... 2 A1 SLEEPING (pp260–2) 佭␃স⠽স䐳䕺џ㰩 Indonesian Restaurant 1968 Ave d Centenary 43 eys R Empire 18 Empire Kowloon ....32 B1 Humphr Hong Kong Museum of History ॄሐ令ᓇ 1968 ...... B1 б啡ⱛᙙ䜦ᑫ n Gardens Mody 17Sq Centre vo Hart Ave ...... 3 B1 Grand Stanford Inter-Continental ar Hanoi 28Rd 佭␃⅋৆म⠽仼 Koh-i-Noor Tsim n Houston Sha Tsui ar 33 C Centre Hong Kong Observatory ...... 19 A3 ⍋᱃௝⽣䜦ᑫ...... C2 C 30 ᇊ䒦ॄᑺ令ᓇ o 20 4 34 rn 23 Tsim Sha 佭␃໽᭛ৄ ...... A1 Nadaman Harbour Plaza Metropolis...... D1 w Tsui a Mirror Tower Hotel Inter-Continental Hong Kong Tsim ll Centre Hong Kong Science Museum ☬㨀᮹ᴀ᭭⧚...... (see 37) 42 Kowloon Sha 29 Cross-Har 5 35

A 21 ...... A4 Mody Rd M Shangri-La 37 佭␃⾥ᅌ仼 ...... C2 Nobu ...... (see 35) 佭␃⌆䱯䜦ᑫ Tsui ve in den 36 19 Ave East Tsim Sha New East Ocean Centre ...... 6 C1 Red Stone Bar & Grill ...... 20 C3 Kimberley Hotel ৯ᗵ䜦ᑫ...... A2 25 40 Tsim Sha Tsui Tsui (KCR East Wing On Kowloon Shangri-La Rail Terminus) East Ferry Pier Sabatini...... (see 43) Peking Plaza bour Tunnel SHOPPING (pp166–9) 21 37 Rd Spring Deer 呓勈᯹ ...... B3 б啡佭Ḑ䞠ᢝ໻䜦ᑫ...... B3 d Signal R Beatniks...... 7 B2 22 Minden Lee Garden Guest House Hill y Towngas Cooking Centre...... B4 ur Garden isb Beverley Commercial Centre 23 38 Sal Woodlands ...... B3 ߽೦䊧仼...... B2 Middle Rd ⱒ߽ଚὁЁᖗ ...... 8 B1 Luxe Manor...... 39 A1

Sheraton Hong Row Chinese Carpet Centre ⦡㮱㸠...... 9 B4 ENTERTAINMENT (p216) Minden ẝⱏ䜦ᑫ ...... 40 A3 Kong Hotel & Towers. Chinese Carpet Centre ⦡㮱㸠...(see 17) Bahama Mama's...... 24 A1 Park Hotel ⱒῖ䜦ᑫ...... 41 B2 25 Granville Rd ࡴ䗷࿕㗕䘧...... 10 A2 Cloudnine ...... A3 Pinnacle Apartment 䈾ሙ...... 42 A3 11 Hong Kong Coliseum Hong Kong Lids ...... B2 Royal Garden Hotel Ᏹ㢥䜦ᑫ...... 43 C2 26 Space New World Rise Commercial Centre ㋙⺵储㚆仼...... D1 Stanford Hillview Hotel Museum & Centre nade Theatre Salisbury 9 12 ome ߽ᰖଚὁ໻ॺ ...... B2 ҩᖋ⽣ቅ᱃䜦ᑫ...... 44 A1 Gardens DRINKING (pp211–12) 1 Victoria SPY...... (see 12) Star Guest House ᯳㧃䊧仼...... 45 A2 22 Harbour Balalaika...... 27 A1 Hong Kong sui East Pr 28 Museum 35 EATING (pp191–4) Biergarten ...... A3 TRANSPORT (pp269–86) of Art 29 A Touch of Spice...... 13 A1 Chillax...... A3 Avis...... 46 C2 Tsim Sha T Chang Won Korean Courtney's...... (see 40) Phoenix Services Agency 30 Restaurant...... 14 B2 La Tasca...... A3 47 To Central ዄᆻ(㚅᷼)ᣏㆇ␠᦭㒢౏ม...... B1 94 95 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com For a whistlestop overview of the territory’s 0 400 m YAU MA TEI 0 0.2 miles

archaeology, natural history, ethnography T t TRANSPORT – YAU MA TEI u S Olympic n g a and local history, this museum is well worth City C 20 W Oi Sen Path Soy St h o g Shanghai St a visit, not only to learn more about the MTR Yau Ma Tei MTR station is on the Tsuen Wan i n o Park S 15 t w subject but to understand how Hong Kong and Kwun Tong lines, and Kowloon MTR on the Avenue K t ndas S Kwong Wah Wylie Rd presents its history to itself and the world. Tung Chung and Airport Express lines. Du Hoi Fu Hospital t S

Court Tung On St ‘The Hong Kong Story’ takes visitors on a d u R a

KCR Bus Buses 2, 6, 6A and 9 run up Nathan Rd (Map p92 ). Ferry St H t Wah Yan e fascinating walk through the territory’s past Hamilton St r g 8 a College n g Pitt St u Tung r Fung

h via eight galleries, starting with the natural 13 30 a St C

s environment and prehistoric Hong Kong – Today the only plants you’ll find in this e Yau Ma Tei c

n i about 6000 years ago, give or take a lunar Yau Ma Tei r heavily urbanised neighbourhood are in the P Ho Man Tin Rd Wholesale aterloo W Fruit year – and ending with the territory’s re- window boxes of tàwng-láu, the crumbling d 12

R Market

g St Art g Shek Lun Meteorological King's turn to China in 1997. Along the way you’ll T six-storey tenements that don’t have lifts and n Man e hur S m u Station Park

e Ming La Tung Kun St p

encounter replicas of village dwellings; h C l 22 more often than not have illegal huts on the e ark t

C P h 27 23 R S i s se i a ' L t n a ng g Hi Lu 9 n g i traditional Chinese costumes and beds; a g roof. The narrow streets full of shops and N C K La N a l P g Sing Win i t f i f n h re-creation of an entire arcaded street in Prosperous g a tenement buildings in Yau Ma Tei are much R Wyl n Garden 24 d S e St

Central from 1881, including an old Chinese t R ie Rd Public Squar 11 the same as those further south and north in d arket St medicine shop; a tram from 1913; and film Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok, making this 5 7 M 2 4 6 footage of WWII, including recent inter- Hoi W G district practically indistinguishable from its ang Rd ascoigne Rd K views with Chinese and foreigners taken ansu neighbours. Yau Ma Tei starts at Jordan Rd an Ch Pa St e k o H t 3 West M ng oi St St S t prisoner by the Japanese. M S 25 a and reaches north to somewhere between Kowloon n e W t l ai g S Heliport M St p 26 Free guided tours of the museum are an n 16 Yu n m u rn e t Mau La n Chi Wo Waterloo Rd and Argyle St. King’s Park and e S Man Y S o t S i King's Park d T St t ing St R o 14 y a

available in English at 10.30am and 2.30pm Rd Cheung Lin Sports Ground 1 r 10 o Man Wui St ing St Saig n St m o Gascoigne Rd are its borders to the east. To n e t a W o t l t N a c in 19 eong on Saturday and Sunday. g Ch St d n e R Au B Po the west it reaches Yau Ma Tei Typhoon Shel- st a St Lok n in R R a d W C rd est Wai Ch St o Nank J ter in Victoria Harbour, the West Kowloon ing 18 J St o Shanghai St r Jord 21 28 d a Hing St a HONG KONG SCIENCE MUSEUM n 17 reclamation site, and the Kowloon station of R t d n t S Tak & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS

S Pilkem St P g

s a Map p94 n

t the Tung Chung MTR and Airport Express e u

s k r

a Jordan %2732 3232; www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum o lines. P

W 29 /Science; 2 Science Museum Rd; adult/concession Yau Ma Tei’s narrow byways are good Chatham Rd South $25/12.50, admission free Wed; h1-9pm Mon- places to check out Hong Kong’s more tra- Wed & Fri, 10am-9pm Sat, Sun & public holidays; ditional urban society. There are many inter- YAU MA TEI MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit B2) esting walks to take along the streets running INFORMATION Temple Street Night Market Tai Pak 㽓䭔⬎ৄ☷咉亳...... 20 C1 Illustrating the fundamental workings International Women's League ᒳ㸫໰Ꮦ...... 9 C2 Tsui Wah 㖴㧃令ᓇ ...... 21 C3 east to west between Kansu St and Jordan Rd 1 of technology, such as computers and ೟䱯်ཇ᳗ ...... B3 Temple Street Night Market (Map p97 ) , including Nanking St (mahjong shops Kowloon Central Post Office ᒳ㸫໰Ꮦ...... 10 C3 SLEEPING (pp262–3) telecommunications, and practical demon- and parlours), Ning Po St (paper kites and vo- б啡Ё༂䛉ሔ ...... 2 C2 Tin Hau Temple ໽ৢᒳ ...... 11 C2 Booth Lodge र㎁ᒝ䊧仼 ...... 22 C2 strations of the laws of energy, physics and Map Publication Centre Wholesale Fruit Market ᵰ⃘...... 12 B2 Caritas Bianchi Lodge KOWLOON tives, such as houses, mobile phones and hell KOWLOON ...... 3 C3 23 chemistry, the Hong Kong Science Museum money, to burn for the dead) and Saigon St ഄ೪䢋ଂ㰩 ᯢᛯⱑ㣅༛䊧仼...... C2 is a great hands-on experience capable Queen Elizabeth Hospital SHOPPING (p169) Dorsett Seaview Hotel (herbalist shops, old-style tailors, pawnshops). Ӟ߽≭ԃ䝿䰶 ...... 4 D2 Chamonix Alpine Equipment ...... 24 B2 of entertaining adults as well as children. Ᏹ䈾⍋᱃䜦ᑫ On Shanghai St you’ll find Chinese bridal and Yau Ma Tei Police Station ≭᳼ሐⱏቅ⫼ક...... 13 B1 Eaton Hotel 䘌ᵅ䜦ᑫ...... 25 C3 There are more than 500 displays, although trousseau shops. See p99 for a self-guided walk ⊍咏ഄ䄺㕆 ...... 5 B2 Chinese Arts & Crafts Ё㮱...... 14 C3 Hakka's Guest House some of them are showing their age. Trendy Zone ╂⌕⡍औ ...... 15 C1 ௝ឝ䊧仼 ...... (see 28) SIGHTS (pp96–8) of this area. Wing On ∌ᅝ...... 16 C3 Nathan Hotel ᔠᬺ䜦ᑫ ...... 26 C3 6 Jade Market ⥝఼Ꮦจ ...... B2 Yue Hwa Chinese Products New Kings Hotel ᮄ催䲙䜦ᑫ...... 27 C2 7 HONG KONG OBSERVATORY Map p94 TEMPLE STREET NIGHT MARKET Jade Market ⥝఼Ꮦจ ...... B2 Emporium 㺩㧃೟䉼...... 17 C3 New Lucky House 㧃䈤໻ᒜ ...... 28 C3 %2926 8200; www.hko.gov.hk; 134A Nathan Rd; Shanghai Street Artspace Ocean Guest House ᅣ⋟䊧仼 ... (see 28) Map p97 8 EATING (p194) MTR Tsim Sha Tsui & Jordan Ϟ⍋㸫㽪㮱ぎ䭧 ...... B1 Rent-a-Room Hong Kong h4-11pm; MTR Yau Ma Tei (exit C) Bali Restaurant ኛ䞠令ᓇ...... 18 C3 㿖᠓䗮...... 29 C3 This historic monument, built in 1883, is The liveliest night market in Hong Kong, Miu Gute Cheong Vegetarian YMCA International House sadly not open to the public. It continues Restaurant ཭ঢ়⼹㋴亳仼 ...... 19 C3 30 Temple St extends from Man Ming Lane in 䴦蔷᳗೟䱯䊧㧉...... C1 to monitor Hong Kong’s weather and sends up those frightening signals when the north to Nanking St in the south and is cut in two by the Tin Hau temple complex. cookware and everyday items. Any marked get anything from a simple bowl of noodles a typhoon is heading for the territory (see prices should be considered mere sugges- to a full meal. There are also a few seafood boxed text, p288 ). While you may find better bargains further north in New Kowloon, and certainly over tions – this is definitely a place to bargain. and hotpot restaurants in the area. the border in Shenzhen, it is still a good You’ll also find a surfeit of fortune-tell- The market officially opens in the after- YAU MA TEI place to go for the bustling atmosphere ers, herbalists and, occasionally, some free, noon, but most hawkers set up at about Eating p194 ; Shopping p169 ; Sleeping p262 and the smells and tastes on offer from the open-air Cantonese opera performances. 6pm and start shutting up around 11pm. Immediately to the north of Tsim Sha Tsui is daai-pàai-dawng (open-air street stall) food. For street food, head for Woo Sung St, run- The market is at its best from about 7pm Ya u M a T e i (Map p97 ) , pronounced ‘yàu-màa- People shop here for cheap clothes, ning parallel to the east, or to the section to 10pm, when it’s clogged with stalls and dáy’ and meaning ‘Place of Sesame Plants’. watches, pirated CDs, fake labels, footwear, of Temple St north of the temple. You can people. If you want to carry on, visit the 96 97 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com colourful wholesale fruit market (cnr Shek Lung TIN HAU TEMPLE Map p97 To get to the bird garden and flower & Reclamation Sts; hmidnight-dawn), which is %2332 9240; cnr Public Square St & Nathan Rd; TRANSPORT – MONG KOK market, from the Prince Edward MTR sta- always a hive of activity. h8am-6pm; MTR Yau Ma Tei (exit C) tion, come out of exit B1 and walk east To reach Temple St market, take exit A couple of blocks northeast of the Jade MTR Mong Kok and Prince Edward MTR stations are along Prince Edward Rd West for about 10 C2 from the Jordan MTR station and walk Market, this temple is dedicated to Tin on the Tsuen Wan and Kwun Tong lines. minutes. along Bowring St or exit C from the Yau Ma Hau, the goddess of seafarers. The temple KCR Mong Kok station is on the KCR East Rail. Tei MTR station and follow Man Ming Lane. complex also houses an altar dedicated to Shing Wong, the god of the city, and to KOWLOON’S TEEMING To Tei, the earth god. You’ll find a row of at Boundary St in the north – strictly speaking, MARKET STREETS JADE MARKET Map p97 anything beyond that is the New Territories. Battery St; h10am-4pm; MTR Yau Ma Tei (exit C) fortune-tellers through the last doorway on the right from the main entrance facing The limit to the east is Waterloo Rd as it heads Walking Tour The Jade Market, near the Gascoigne Rd Public Square St; signs indicate which ones northward to Kowloon Tong and to the west 1 Yuen Po Street Bird Garden & Flower overpass just west of Nathan Rd and split speak English. An incense spiral that lasts the district of Tai Kok Tsui. Market A 10-minute walk away from Prince into two parts by the loop formed by 10 days will set you back a mere $130. This is where locals come to buy everyday Edward MTR (exit A), Yuen Po Street Bird Gar- Battery St, has some 400 stalls selling all The Yau Ma Tei Police Station (Map p97 ; 627 Canton items, such as jeans, tennis shoes, computer den is the gathering place for mostly old men varieties and grades of jade from inside Rd), a short distance to the east along Public accessories and kitchen supplies. Take a look who air their caged birds here and feed them two covered markets. Unless you really Square St, was built in 1922 and is a listed at Fife St, which has an amazing collection grasshoppers with chop sticks. A little further know your nephrite from your jadeite, it’s building. of stalls selling old vinyl, books, ceramics, along, Flower Market Rd (left ) is lined with fragrant probably not wise to buy any expensive machinery and music scores. Mong Kok is and exotic blooms and plants. pieces here, but there are plenty of cheap also a good place to buy backpacks, hiking and cheerful trinkets on offer as well. MONG KOK boots and sporting goods (p169 ) . Two blocks 2 Goldfish Market At the end of the street, You can reach the market easily on foot Eating p194 ; Sleeping p263 southeast of the Mong Kok MTR station (exit turn left onto Sai Yee St, then right onto Prince from either the Jordan (exit A) or Yau Ma Mong Kok (Map p98; Prosperous Point) is one D3) is the Tung Choi Street market (see boxed text, Edward Rd West and left onto Tung Choi St: p156 Tei (exit C) MTR stations. Bus 9 from the of Hong Kong’s most congested working-class ), which runs from Argyle St in the north the first couple of blocks are dominated by to Dundas St in the south. Star Ferry bus station will drop you off at residential areas, as well as one of its busiest bicycle shops but give way to up to a dozen The streets west of Nathan Rd reveal Hong

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS the Kowloon Central Post Office at 405 shopping districts. & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Kong’s seamier side; this is where you’ll find shops trading in these extravagantly hued, Nathan Rd, which is just around the corner Mong Kok starts somewhere between Wa- and weirdly shaped fish. There’s an amaz- from the market. terloo Rd and Argyle St to the south and ends some of the city’s seediest brothels. Mostly run by Triads, these places are often veritable pris- ing variety with the real rarities commanding M high prices. 0 300 m ons for young women. The Hong Kong police MONG KOK 0 0.2 miles routinely raid these places, but a look at the rows of pastel-coloured neon strip lights on so 3 Tung Choi Street Market Sharpen your Tung Choi St p156 Boundary St P elbows. This market (see boxed text, ), also INFORMATION o To Kowloon Boundary Street many blocks is an indication that it’s ‘business r t Tong (1km) 12 d l Recreation Hong Kong Trade & Industry Department a known as the Ladies’ Market, is crammed with Sai Y R K n 10 as usual’ despite the change in landlords.

i Ground t d ...... 1 C2 L n Ꮉὁ䊓ᯧ㕆 u o e Sycam re n S stalls and shoppers selling mostly inexpensive g ee St S t m t 3 St k d Rd 2 n SIGHTS (pp98–9) a KOWLOON Playing Fiel t Rd clothing. Refuel on Taiwanese at Tai Pak (p194 ) KOWLOON arke b lower M YUEN PO ST BIRD GARDEN & Flower Market 㢅๳ ...... 2 D1 F m E before continuing south. Yuen Po St Bird Garden T ai FLOWER MARKET Map p98 3 Cedar St N ೦೗㸫䲔効㢅೦...... D1 an 13 S Prince West Flower Market Rd; h7am-8pm; MTR Prince t ard Rd Edward ce Edw 4 Temple Street Night Market Beneath the SHOPPING (p169) Prin Queen Elizabeth Edward (exit B1) KHS Bicycles 亯⧗ஂ䒞㸠 ...... 4 C2 School bleaching glare of naked light bulbs, hundreds Sai Y This market is a wonderful place to visit, if Langham Place Mall ...... 5 C3 Hotel Concourse ᳫ䈾ഞ T Hong Kong Be u of stalls (p96 ) sell a vast array of booty from n 4 ee St Mong Kok Computer Centred g 16 only to marvel at how the Hong Kong Chi- f Lai Sai Y ord C Mong Kok F ...... ha 6 C3 C Nullah Rd ᯎ㾦䳏㜺Ёᖗu R h bric-a-brac to clothes, shoes, luggage and ac- k d u i nese (especially men) fuss and fawn over Ts S7 K eung C Tung Choi St (Ladies)u Market ཇҎ㸫...... t C3 St o m Arran k Nathan Rd Tai Kok Tsui Rd R cessories. Turn right at Shanghai St, cut down Wing Shing PhotoS Supplies d their feathered friends. The Chinese have t L te St u 8 u e ∌៤᫱ᕅ఼ᴤ݀ৌ...... C3 hoi St B Hi Lung Lane to Temple St and turn right. The n long favoured songbirds as pets; you often T 9 o W Wise Mount Sports ᚴዄ䘟ࢩ݀ৌ ...... nD3 g a market runs right down to Jordan Rd. South see local men walking around airing their n M Canton Rd Ivy S t Mong S EATING (p194)i

t R Kok birds and feeding them squirming caterpil- d Ming Court ᯢ䭷 ...... (see 11) 1 ok Rd 5 Tin Hau Temple Fragrant smoke curls Mong K lars with chopsticks. Some birds are also Fa Yuen St To Kowloon SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (p230) City (1.5km) considered harbingers of good fortune, from incense spirals at this atmospheric temple Reclamation St Mong Kok Stadium A ...... 10 D1 Fife St ᯎ㾦໻⧗จncho r St which is why you’ll see some people carry- Argyle St SLEEPING Anchor (pp263–4) Hak Po St ing them to the racetrack. St Langham Place Hotel ᳫ䈾䜦ᑫ ...... 11 C3 V Park ic There are scores of birds for sale from WALK FACTS Mong t Newton Hotel Kowloon б啡呫ᵅ䜦ᑫ.. 12 C1 o 8 r Kok y 13 the stalls here, along with elaborate cages Royal Plaza Hotel ...... D1 S ᏱҀ䜦ᑫ 15 A Start Prince Edward MTR station (entrance/exit A) Cherry St h v 9 Yim Po Fong St a e n Ferry St carved from teak and bamboo. Adjacent TRANSPORT (pp269–86) 11 g 5 End Jordan MTR station (entrance/exit A) h Portland St Nelson St 14 Hoi Wang R Peace A a 14 i Buses to China ᕔЁ U࿡ᄢ㒽⊛჻Ꮙ჻ .... D3 6 Macpherson to the bird garden is the flower market on S Distance 4.5km t Playground St 7 China Travel Service Ё೟ᮙ㸠⼒ ...... 15 D3 Nelson Flower Market Rd, which keeps theoreti- Olympic g St ve Time Two hours Trans-Island Chinalink Shantun City 16 cally the same hours but only gets busy ⪄ዊᮙ䘟᳝䰤݀ৌ...... d C2 Fuel stop Tai Pak after 10am, especially on Sunday. 98 99 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com KOWLOON’S TEEMING (p98 ) to the goddess of the sea. Fortune-tellers from the Star Ferry or 2A from Nathan Rd in Mong nearby use everything from tarot cards, palm- Kowloon City 0 200 m Kok, alight in front of the museum Just west of what was once Kai Tak Interna- MARKET STREETS 0 0.1 miles istry and even tame sparrows to deliver their This burial vault dating from the Eastern tional Airport, the rather low-rent neighbour- predictions. Chinese opera singers sometimes Han dynasty (AD 25–220) was discovered in hood of Kowloon City (Map pp88–9 ) has two also practise in the area. 1955 when workers were levelling the hill- Boundary St draw cards: a wonderful park that was once

Boundary Street side for a housing estate. It is one of Hong d the infamous Kowloon Walled City, and a Mong Kok R Nathan Rd Recreation t Fa Yuen St 6 Jade Market A great place to pick up an Kong’s earliest surviving historical monu- Ground Stadium n e string of authentic and excellent-value Thai 1 m k inexpensive trinket, this large covered market ments and, believe it or not, was once on P d Rd n a restaurants. The airport sits on a prime chunk o Playing Fiel b r et Rd t ark (p98 ) M m contains dozens of stalls selling jade, the l er the coast. a Flow E n of land, slowly being redeveloped.

d much-valued Chinese precious stone. At Jor- The tomb consists of four barrel-vaulted S est t Prince Prince Edward Rd W dan Rd turn east, then south into Nathan Rd brick chambers that take the form of a Edward Queen Elizabeth KOWLOON WALLED CITY PARK School d to find Jordan MTR station. R cross; they are set around a domed central L Map pp88–9 ai h C lla h u 2 chamber and many of the bricks contained i K N Tung Choi %2716 9962, 2762 2084; www.lcsd.gov.hk/en ok R moulded patterns of fish, dragons and d t Bute S NEW KOWLOON /ls_park.php; Tung Tau Tsuen, Tung Tsing, Carpen- Sai Y the like. It’s encased in a concrete shell ter & Junction Rds; h6.30am-11pm; g1 from St Mong Eating p194 ; Shopping p170 ee St for protection and visitors can only peek Kok New Kowloon (Map pp88–9 ) encompasses as Star Ferry pier, alight opposite the park at Tung Tau

L Nathan Rd through a plastic window; it’s a bit of a Mong Kok u e Tsuen Rd n many as 20 different neighbourhoods, but Rd g Kok W journey for an anticlimactic peek through Mon St a fe n The walls that enclose this beautiful park

Shanghai St Fi only half a dozen are of much interest to trav-

S perspex. The museum also contains a few t S o were once the perimeter of a notorious V ellers. From west to east they are Sham Shui a Argyle St i r c e Hak Po St pottery and bronze pieces taken from the Reclamation St t o s Po, Kowloon Tong, Kowloon City, Wong Tai village that technically remained part of r A Sai Y y Mong v tomb. A e China throughout British rule, as it was Kok Y v Sin and Diamond Hill. The majority (and the e eung Choi St South i m From Cheung Sha Wan MTR take exit A3 P places of interest described in this section) are never included in the 1898 lease of the Macpherson o Peace A F and walk northeast for 10 minutes along 3 Play Ground o within easy reach of an MTR station. New Territories. The enclave was known for Nelson St n g St Tonkin St. Canton Rd ng antu S its vice, prostitution, gambling and illegal Sh t ve St g Tung Choi hantun dentists. In 1984 the Hong Kong govern- & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS S & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS

t S Sham Shui Po ment acquired the area, rehoused the

a Kowloon Tong W A residential area of high-rises, Sham Shui Po residents elsewhere and built pavilions and g n Soy St St o As well as containing two of Hong Kong’s w (Map pp88–9 ) is famous for its market and com- K ponds filled with turtles and goldfish and s St W most prestigious seats of learning – the Hong unda y puter emporiums ( p170 ). North of (and eas- D l planted exquisite trees and shrubs, includ- i e Kong Baptist University (%3411 7400), Hong Kong’s d R ily accessible from) the district is Lei Cheng R d ing a long hedge coaxed into the form of

Reclamation o most generously endowed seat of higher learn- o Uk Han Tomb, an important archaeological rl a dragon. The park opened in 1996. Close te Hamilton St a Wah Yan ing, and City University of Hong Kong (%2788 7654) – Tun W College find. to the Carpenter Rd entrance of the park

g Fung S Kowloon Tong (Map pp88–9 ) also has bridal Pitt St is the renovated Yamen building, once an Shanghai St St APLIU STREET MARKET Map pp88–9 shops with names like Cité du Louvre, where almshouse. It contains displays on the his-

Nathan Rd brides-to-be can buy their finery, have their KOWLOON Wholesale Yau Apliu St, btwn Nam Cheong & Kweilin Sts; hnoon- tory of the walled city, with a scale model KOWLOON Fruit Ma Tei photos done and even attend the ceremony Market midnight; MTR Sham Shui Po of the village in the mid-19th century. At ng St Shek Lu King's From the Sham Shui Po MTR station follow itself. It is also a neighbourhood of knock-up the park’s north side are the remnants of Arthur S C Man Ming La Park h Tung Kun St shops – ‘no-tells’, as one wag called them, with i n T ark exit A1 and you’ll soon fall right into this the original South and East Gates. e g P Ri m s se a ' ng L t g P Lu revolving beds, velvet-flock wallpaper and Hi 4 p in C i K flea market, which makes a cheaper and n l Yau Ma e l g i g Sing f Tei Win S f heart-shaped jacuzzis. They’re very popular S t La R more interesting hunting ground than the t

d for ‘matinées’ and rented by the hour. e St 5 Temple Street Night Market. Everything G TRANSPORT – NEW KOWLOON Public Squar a s rket St c Ma o from clothing to antique clocks and coins i g t 6 n S e is on sale here, although the real speciality MTR The two MTR lines running up the spine of FESTIVAL WALK SHOPPING CENTRE

y R r r d Kowloon are useful for getting around New Kow- e t is second-hand electronic goods – radios, Map pp88–9 F S Kan Pak su St n Ho i St t loon. Key stops on the Tsuen Wan line include Sham o i mobile phones, stereo systems, amplifiers S % h M t 2844 2222; 80-88 Tat Chee Ave; 10.30am- an Cheong St a i a King's Park m Shui Po and Cheung Sha Wan MTR stations; key h and spare parts. The market spills over into a l g G Sports Ground 10pm; MTR Kowloon Tong c n a t d e s a c S o stops on the Kwun Tong line include Kowloon Tong, R i R h gn Pei Ho St. e S g R Kowloon Tong can claim Festival Walk, the n N d ing n o P u t Lok Fu, Wong Tai Sin and Diamond Hill MTR stations. t o St S S territory’s most luxurious shopping com- an o y t C r o S e

t KCR The most important stop on the KCR East Rail W LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM plex, and, in typical Hong Kong fashion, t e Parkes St l a N p an dJ B k J ing St R o ord m n r Map pp88–9 line is Kowloon Tong station, which has an inter- a d the centre boasts a fair few superlatives n e a Rd d a T r Jor Jo n dan Rd Tak Hing St P %2386 2863; www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/History itself. Festival Walk has the largest cinema, change with Kowloon Tong MTR station.

a t

t S

g /en/lcuht.php; 41 Tonkin St; admission free; bookshop and ice-skating rink ( p229 ) in the

n Jordan Bus Buses 5 and 26 leave from Tsim Sha Tsui to Ma u

s Kowloon

o Bowring St h10am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat, 1-6pm Sun & territory. From the Kowloon Tong MTR sta- o Cricket Tau Chung Rd for Kowloon.

W Club Ground public holidays; MTR Cheung Sha Wan (exit A3), g2 tion, take exit C2.

100 101 lonelyplanet.com the ‘carp gate’ refers to the channel separating two-dozen fish restaurants line narrow, lonelyplanet.com Wong Tai Sin Diamond Hill southeast Kowloon from Hong Kong Island, winding Lei Yue Mun Praya Rd overlooking The district of Wong Tai Sin to the north of Spread out below the peak of the same name, which is the narrowest entrance to Victoria the typhoon shelter. The area is a colour- Kowloon City is known for two things: its the residential district of Diamond Hill is due Harbour. Across the water on the island and ful and lively place to dine by the water at enormous and faceless housing estate and one east of Wong Tai Sin and is worth visiting looming on the hillside is 19th-century Lei Yue night and is always busy. To get here from of the most active and interesting temples in solely for the nearby nunnery. the territory. Mun Fort (Map pp54–5 ), which now contains the the Yau Tong MTR station, use exit A2 and Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence ( p80 ). follow Cha Kwo Ling Rd and Shung Shun CHI LIN NUNNERY Off Map pp88–9 St south for 15 minutes or catch green SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE %2354 1604; 5 Chi Lin Dr; admission free; minibus 24M from outside the station. Bus Off Map pp88–9 SAM KA TSUEN SEAFOOD PRECINCT hnunnery 9am-5pm, garden 6.30am-7pm; MTR 14C links the Yau Tong Centre halfway %2854 4333; Lung Cheung Rd; $2 donation MTR Yau Tong (Exit A2) Diamond Hill down the hill with the Kwun Tong MTR requested; h7am-6pm; MTR Wong Tai Sin The ‘village’ of Lei Yue Mun is one of Hong One of the most beautiful and arrestingly Kong’s prime seafood venues; around station. An explosion of colourful pillars, roofs, built environments in Hong Kong, this lattice work, flowers and incense, this busy large Buddhist complex, originally dating temple is a destination for all walks of Hong from the 1930s, was rebuilt completely of Kong society, from pensioners to business- wood in the style of the Tang dynasty in people, parents and young professionals. 1998. It is a serene place, with lotus ponds, Some come simply to pray, others to immaculate bonsai tea plants and bougain- divine the future with chìm, bamboo ‘for- villea, and silent nuns delivering offerings tune sticks’ that are shaken out of a box on of fruit and rice to Buddha and arhats to the ground and then read by a fortune- (Buddhist disciple freed from the cycle of teller (they’re available for free to the left of birth and death), or chanting behind intri- the main temple). cately carved screens. The design (involving The complex, adjacent to the Wong Tai Sin housing estate, was built in 1973 intricately interlocking sections of wood and is dedicated to the god of that name, joined without a single nail) is intended to & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS who began his life as a humble shepherd demonstrate the harmony of humans with & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS in Zhejiang province. When he was 15 an nature and is pretty convincing – until you immortal taught Wong Tai Sin how to make look up at the looming neighbourhood a herbal potion that could cure all illnesses. high-rises behind the complex. He is thus worshipped both by the sick and You enter the complex through the Sam those trying to avoid illness. He is also a Mun, a series of ‘three gates’ representing favourite god of businesspeople. The image the Buddhist precepts of compassion, wis- of the god in the main temple was brought dom and ‘skilful means’. The first courtyard, to Hong Kong from Guangdong province in which contains the delightful Lotus Pond 1915 and was initially installed in a temple Garden, gives way to the Hall of Celestial KOWLOON in Wan Chai, where it remained until being Kings, with a large statue of the seated KOWLOON moved to the present site in 1921. Buddha surrounded by the deities of the Behind the main temple and to the right four cardinal points. Behind that is the main are the Good Wish Gardens ($2 donation requested; hall, containing a statue of the Sakyamuni h9am-4pm), replete with colourful pavilions Buddha flanked by two standing disciples (the hexagonal Unicorn Hall, with carved and two seated Bodhisattvas (Buddhist doors and windows, is the most beautiful), holy people). Below the complex is a café zigzag bridges, waterfalls and carp ponds. selling vegetarian snacks and dim sum for Below the main temple and to the left as $12 to $25. you enter the complex is an arcade filled To reach the nunnery, take exit C2 of with dozens of booths operated by for- Diamond Hill MTR station, walk through the tune-tellers, some of whom speak English. Hollywood Plaza shopping centre and turn Expect a consultation to cost upwards of east (left) on to Fung Tak Rd. The nunnery is $100. a five-minute walk away. The busiest times at the temple are around Chinese New Year, Wong Tai Sin’s birthday (23rd day of the eighth month – Lei Yue Mun usually in September) and on weekends. Southeast of the old Kai Tak airport is the res- Getting to the temple is easy. From the idential neighbourhood of Kwun Tong (Map Wong Tai Sin MTR station, take exit B2 and pp50–1 ), and a bit further southeast is the rapidly then follow the signs or the crowds (or modernising fishing village of Lei Yue Mun (Map both). pp50–1 ). Láy-yèw means ‘carp’ and mùn is ‘gate’; 102 103 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com NEW TERRITORIES TSUEN WAN Tai Mo Shan Country Park L o Many Hong Kong residents make the New Territories (Map pp50–1 ) their getaway for the week- H W il SIGHTS (pp104–6) SLEEPING lt a 4 o Chuk Lam Sim Monastery æ` ¶U •...... 1 B2 Panda Hotel ˘Œ ...... 6 C4 i p end, and the eastern section, notably Sai Kung Peninsula in the northeast and the area around R d R

d Clearwater Bay further south, has some of Hong Kong’s most beautiful scenery and hiking Sam Tung Uk Museum ¨ ˛ †'˛ ^ ...... 2 C3 Tin Hau Temple ”R ...... 3 C3 TRANSPORT (pp269–86) To Yuen Yuen ˝˚ ¿ Institute (1km) trails. Life in these more rural parts of Hong Kong is more redolent of times past – simpler, Western Monastery ˛•‰¸´ ...... 4 C1 Bus 43X 43X ...... 7 B3 slower, often more friendly. Bus 51 (on Overpass) EATING (p195) 51 ˝˚ ¿( V· ª )...... 8 B3 The New Territories was so named because the area was leased to Britain in 1898, almost half Panda Café ¿§•¨˚ ...... (see 6) Bus 53 53 ˝˚ ¿...... 9 B3 a century after Hong Kong Island and four decades after Kowloon were ceded to the crown. Bus 930 930 ˝˚ ¿...... 10 B3 To Sam Tung ENTERTAINMENT (p219) Bus Station ˝˚ ¿...... 11 B3 Uk Rd (4km) For many years the area was Hong Kong’s rural hinterland; however, since WWII, when some Tsuen Wan Town Hall ı‡· ˆ ...... 5 A3 Minibuses 81, 82 & 85 81, 82 80% of the land was under cultivation, many parts of the ‘NT’ – as the area is known locally – To Tuen To Tsuen … 85 —¡ ˝...... 12 B3 Mun Kam Au (18km) (5km) have become urbanised. In the past two decades the speed at which this development has taken Tam P a th place has been nothing short of heart stopping. Rd han i S The New Territories is large, comprising 747 sq km, or almost 68% of Hong Kong’s land area. d Pe R ung 1 an Che Strictly speaking, everything north of Boundary St in Kowloon, up to the border with mainland Sh Yung u F Pai Rd China, is the New Territories. The northernmost part of the New Territories, within 1km of the Discovery Sim Park Ma Chinese frontier, is a ‘closed border area’ that is fenced and well marked with signs. It marks the Rout e Twisk d boundary of the Hong Kong SAR with the Shenzhen Special Economic Zone (SEZ). k R 8 i Ko C a Almost four million people, up from less than half a million in 1970, call the New Territories d as orth W R tle d N k Pe R e g ak o h n R H S home – about half the total population of Hong Kong. Most of them live in ‘New Towns’. Since u d i -T 11 a h su T Luk C e n T i W Yeung e its inception in the 1950s, the New Towns programme has consumed more than half of the a an Tsuen x T Hoi Pa St Galleria a Wan c o ng St S 3 R Hong Kong government’s budget, with much of the funding spent on land reclamation, sewage, a 9 i d Ku L d 7 au S R N h Tso K roads and other infrastructure projects. a o n o Ts Shiu Wo k e r Heung Wou St wu t Tsuen Wan K u h i R U s R k T Getting to and around the New Territories has never been easier, particularly to the New d Market/Food St d La i T C 2 a Stalls su a d Tai Pa St e s W R & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS ) n 12 tl Sam & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Towns and areas of interest listed here. The KCR West Rail, which opened in late 2003, is now t W e n S u an P Tung Uk M y M e r a a Gardens g Y 10 le r k in transporting passengers from Kowloon to the western New Territories as far as Tuen Mun. u 5 Rd l k en e Tai Pei et R h S d S d T w t Castle Peak R u e Square Tak n Ho J The MTR goes to Tsuen Wan (on the Tsuen Wan line) in the west and Po Lam in the east, C ( Tai

ir t Wah Tai S Yan Chai Wo Hau Tsuen t Tak Hoi ParkSt g S Hospital from where you can catch buses and minibuses to explore other parts of the New Territories. n Chan St Wan u n Tak Wa L O Yan West Travel to the northern New Territories is simple, fast and cheap with the KCR East Rail, which n g h St e n u u h h 6 connects Tsim Sha Tsui, Hung Hom and Kowloon Tong with Sha Tin, Tai Po, Sheung Shui and C C un WahSt Ha St in St Tai Tse Tsuen Fu the Chinese border at Lo Wu. There are also a number of buses linking Hong Kong Island and St Kwan Mun Hau St Kowloon with the New Territories. Ham T Tsuen W Ye un Once in the New Territories, buses – run for the most part by the Kowloon Motor Bus Co (KMB; %2745 g UK an Rd R d NEW TERRITORIES NEW 4466; www.kmb.com.hk) – and green minibuses – which run on just under 200 routes – are the main Sandy TERRITORIES NEW ways to get around. For detailed bus route information check the KMB’s website. Bay Catching a taxi is easy – at least to and from the New Towns; there are more than 2840 taxis cruising the streets and country roads of the New Territories. Ferries and kaidos (small, open-sea Chung On St, south of the Tsuen Wan MTR YUEN YUEN INSTITUTE Off Map p105 ferries) serve the more remote areas and a few large communities on the coast. station, is famed for its jewellery and gold- %2492 2220; Lo Wai Rd; h8.30am-5pm; In the far west of the New Territories, the way to go is the KCR’s Light Rail, a modern, street- smith shops. Tak Wah Park (h6.30am-11pm) in the ggreen minibus 81 level tram system that connects Tuen Mun with Yuen Long and stops at several interesting centre of town has ancient trees, footbridges Stuffed with vivid statuary of Confucian and places along the way. over ponds and ornamental stone mountains. Buddhist deities, the Yuen Yuen Institute, It’s a peaceful place and an ideal spot to take a in the hills northeast of Tsuen Wan, is very TSUEN WAN break from the hustle and bustle of the town much on the tourist trail but well worth a Eating p195 around it. Among the easiest destinations in the New The MTR station is on Sau Lau Kok Rd, Territories to reach, Tsuen Wan (Map p105 ) , or with the Luk Yeung Galleria shopping cen- TRANSPORT – TSUEN WAN tre above it. The main bus station is oppo- ‘Shallow Bay’, is an industrial and residential MTR Tsuen Wan MTR station on Tsuen Wan line. New Town northwest of Kowloon, with some N E W T E R R I T O R I E S site the MTR on Castle Peak Rd (exit A2), 290,000 inhabitants. It’s nothing special, but it Sai Kung’s beaches ( p126 ) but buses and green minibuses pick up and KCR Tsuen Wan West station. does have a fine (though small) museum and Hong Kong Wetland Park ( p107 ) disgorge passengers throughout the New Bus Many buses (but not all) from around the new some of the most colourful and active temple MacLehose Trail ( p226 ) Town. Tsuen Wan is the last station on the territories arrive at Tsuen Wan’s central bus station, and monastic complexes in Hong Kong, in- Tsuen Wan’s monasteries and museums ( left ) Tsuen Wan MTR line. If you’re really in a including bus 60M from Tuen Mun and 68M from cluding the serene Western Monastery (p106 ) Hong Kong Heritage Museum ( p125 ) hurry to get there or back, change to the Yuen Long. Bus 51 from Tai Mo Shan and Kam Tin and the vivid Yuen Yuen Institute ( opposite ), 10,000 Buddhas Monastery ( p124 ) Tung Chung MTR line at Lai King, which stops along Tai Ho Rd. stuffed with all manner of deities. has fewer stops. 104 105 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com visit nonetheless. The main building is a either side is an equally impressive line-up outfits listed on p225. The Tai Mo Shan Country Park (vague) replica of the Temple of Heaven of 12 Bodhisattvas, or Buddhists seeking Visitor Centre (%2498 9326; h9.30am-4.30pm Sat, Sun TRANSPORT – TUEN MUN in Beijing. On the upper ground floor are enlightenment. The third temple contains & holidays) is at the junction of Route Twisk (the three Taoist immortals seated in a quiet another large image of Lord Gautama. name is derived from ‘Tsuen Wan into Shek KCR Tuen Mun West Rail station. hall; walk down to the lower level to watch Chuk Lam Sim Monastery is northeast of Kong’) and Tai Mo Shan Rd, which is crossed Light Rail Tuen Mun is towards the southern end as crowds of the faithful pray and burn Tsuen Wan MTR station. To reach it, take by the MacLehose Trail. of the useful light rail network. Other major points offerings to the 60 incarnations of Taoist green minibus 85 from Shiu Wo St, which To reach Tai Mo Shan from the Tsuen include Tin Shui Wai, Yuen Long and Siu Hong. The saints lining the walls. This place is packed is two blocks due south of the MTR station Wan MTR station, catch bus 51 on Tai Ho station is linked to the KCR station. out at Chinese New Year. There are also (exit B1). Rd North, alighting at the junction of Route Bus An alternative route along the coast to Tuen deities representing particular years and Twisk and Tai Mo Shan Rd in Tsuen Kam Mun is to take bus 60M from Tsuen Wan MTR birth signs, to which worshippers pray and SAM TUNG UK MUSEUM Map p105 Au. Follow Tai Mo Rd, which forms part of station (exit A3). make offerings. %2411 2001; 2 Kwu Uk Lane; admission free; stage No 9 of the MacLehose Trail, east to To reach both the Institute and the West- h9am-5pm Wed-Mon; MTR Tsuen Wan the summit. On the right-hand side, about Ferry Services to Tuen Mun ferry pier arrive from Tung Chung, Sha Lo Wan and Tai O (all on Lantau). ern Monastery, take minibus 81 from Shiu This imaginative and well-tended museum 45 minutes from the bus stop, a fork in the Wo St, two blocks due south of Tsuen Wan is housed in a restored late-18th-century road leads south along a concrete path to the MTR station (exit B1). Bus 43X from along Tai Hakka walled village, whose former resi- Sze Lok Yuen Hostel (p264 ) . with other centres in Kowloon and the New Ho Rd, further south of the MTR station (exit dents, the Chan clan, were only resettled For information on accessing stages of the Territories by the KCR West Rail. If you’re D), will drop you off on Sam Tung Uk Rd. The in 1980. Within the complex are a dozen MacLehose Trail and the Wilson Trail near travelling to Tuen Mun from Tsuen Wan or monastery is several hundred metres away three-beamed houses containing tradi- Tai Mo Shan, see p226 . points in Kowloon or Hong Kong Island by and the institute is just up the hill. A taxi tional Hakka furnishings, kitchenware, bus, sit on the upper deck on the left side for from the MTR station will cost $30 to $35. wedding items and agricultural imple- NG TUNG CHAI WATERFALL & spectacular views of the Tsing Ma Bridge, ments, most of which came from two 17th- KADOORIE FARM & BOTANIC which links Kowloon with Lantau Island. In WESTERN MONASTERY Map p105 century Hakka villages in Bao’an county in GARDEN Map pp50–1 recent years a number of important archae- %2411 5111; Lo Wai Rd; h8.30am-5.30pm; Guangdong province. There are also special %2483 7200; www.kfbg.org.hk; Lam Kam Rd; ological discoveries have been made here, ggreen minibus 81 exhibits on such topics as rice farming in admission free; h9.30am-5pm; g64K notably to the north and west of Tuen Mun

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS A short distance down from the Yuen Yuen the New Territories. Behind the restored as- The area around the Ng Tung Chai Waterfall town (see p19 ). & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Institute, the Buddhist Western Monastery sembly and ancestral halls is the old village is scenic and worth a detour. It is near the As always in New Towns, the centre of offers a sharp contrast to what’s going on school, with interactive displays and videos village of Ng Tung Chai, which is several Tuen Mun is dominated by commercial de- up the hill. This is a tranquil complex in on such topics as Hakka women, traditional kilometres north of Tai Mo Shan and just velopments and shopping centres. Most buses which to pass the time, observing points crafts and traditional food. south of Lam Kam Rd. There is actually a stop at the station just west of the town hall, of interest both architectural and spiritual. At the Tsuen Wan MTR station, take exit series of falls and streams here reached by where you’ll also find the Town Centre sta- After being greeted by a Bodhisattva statue E and walk five minutes southeast along taking the path leading to Ng Tung Chai tion of the Light Rail. The KCR’s West Rail in the entrance, the main building lies Sai Lau Kok Rd to Kwu Uk Lane and the and the Lam Kam Rd from the radio station interchanges at the Tuen Mun Light Rail sta- behind, styled as a classical Chinese palace. museum. on the summit of Tai Mo Shan. tion. Ferries to the airport, Tung Chung and This comprises of the Hall of Maitreya and Southwest of Ng Tung Chai is the Ka- Tai O on Lantau depart from the pier to the NEW TERRITORIES NEW the Great Buddha’s Hall above it. Further doorie Farm & Botanic Garden, a conserva- southwest of the town centre, which is also TERRITORIES NEW behind is a another two-storey building TAI MO SHAN tion and teaching centre where farmers served by the Light Rail (p282 ) . where, depending on what time of day Sleeping p264 receive practical training in crop and live- you visit, you may witness scores of monks Hong Kong’s tallest mountain is not Victoria stock management. The gardens are espe- Peak but Tai Mo Shan (Map pp50–1 ) , the ‘big HONG KONG WETLAND PARK chanting mantras. This building is topped cially lovely, with many indigenous birds, Map pp50–1 by a spectacular nine-storey pagoda. misty mountain’ that, at 957m, is nearly twice animals, insects and plants in residence. as high as that relative molehill (552m) on %3152 2666; www.wetlandpark.com; Wetland You can reach Kadoorie Farm most easily Park Rd, Tin Shui Wai; adult/child $30/15; h10am- CHUK LAM SIM MONASTERY Map p105 Hong Kong Island. Several hiking trails thread on bus 64K, which runs between Yuen up and around it, but you’ll need to bring your 5pm Wed-Tue; dline 705 or 706 %2490 3392; Fu Yung Shan Rd; h9am-4.30pm; Long KCR West Rail station and Tai Po Mar- own food and water. The Countryside Series The space and serenity of this 60-hectare ggreen minibus 85 ket KCR East station; get off on Lam Kam North-East & Central New Territories map is ecological park make it a wonderful place to Chuk Lam Sim Yuen (Bamboo Forest Mon- Rd near the sign for Ng Tung Chai village. If while away half a day. Its nature trails, bird the one you want for this area (p295 ) . If you you walk from Tai Mo Shan to the village of astery) is one of the most impressive tem- don’t want to go it alone, contact any of the hides and viewing platforms are windows ple complexes in Hong Kong. The temple Ng Tung Chai, you can catch green minibus on the wetland ecosystems and biodiversity was completed in 1932 when an aged 25K to Tai Po Market KCR East Rail station of the northwest New Territories. The fu- monk was told by Tou Tei, the earth god, as well. turistic grass-covered headquarters houses to build it. Ascend the flight of steps to the TRANSPORT – TAI MO SHAN interesting galleries, including one on first temple, walk to the back and enter the Bus Bus 64K links Tai Mo Shan with Yuen Long and tropical swamps, a film theatre, a large café second. This second temple contains three TUEN MUN and a viewing gallery. It’s oddly pleasing to Tai Po Market. Eating p195 of the largest golden Buddhas in the terri- watch in silence as a kingfisher dives and The largest and most important New Town tory (though mere shadows of the big one Green Minibus Bus 25K also runs between Tai Po then turns 180 degrees to be faced with a in the western New Territories, Tuen Mun on Lantau Island, p135 ). Flanking the trio on Market and Tai Mo Shan. bank of high-rise apartment blocks. If you (Map pp50–1 ; population 550,000) is linked 106 107 lonelyplanet.com have binoculars then bring them, otherwise containing a bell and a drum to call the Pay the $100 entrance fee and $200 de- lonelyplanet.com (Continued from page 108) be prepared to wait to use the fixed points faithful to pray or to rest. An annual Bonsai posit at the visitor centre; the latter will be returned when you leave the reserve. in the viewing galleries and hides. Festival is held here April. The culprit is the neighbouring city of To reach the Hong Kong Wetland Park, For Hong Kong residents regular tours are Ching Chung Temple is directly opposite Shenzhen in mainland China, which is pump- take the KCR West Rail to Tin Shui Wai and run on weekends and public holidays as the Light Rail station of that name. To reach ing out a rapidly increasing amount of sewage, board Light Rail line 705 or 706, alighting at well as seasonal ones. Again, these should it from the Tuen Mun or Town Centre sta- about half of which is untreated. The only the Wetland Park stop. It can also be reached be booked well in advance. If calling on a tions, catch line 505. long-term solution to this environmental directly from Hong Kong Island, from the weekend or holiday, call the Visitor Centre Admiralty MTR bus station on bus 967. threat is for Shenzhen to build more sewage- number above. YUEN LONG treatment facilities but, as the population of The World Wide Fund for Nature Hong Kong the city expands faster than its infrastructure, MIU FAT MONASTERY Map pp50–1 Eating p196 (WWFHK; Map p56 ; %2526 4473; www.wwf.org.hk; 1 There’s nothing special at Yuen Long (Map this will take time. Meanwhile, the only hope %2461 8567; 18 Castle Peak Rd; h9am-5pm; Tramway Path), adjacent to the entrance of the pp50–1 ; Yuen Long KCR West Rail), which in the short term is that Hong Kong’s increas- dline 751 Peak Tram in Central, can arrange guided currently counts some almost 500,000 inhab- ingly wet summers will flush out and dilute Miu Fat Monastery in Lam Tei, due north visits to the marsh; ring between 9am and itants, but it’s an important transport hub many of the pollutants, helping to raise the 5pm on weekdays to book. Three-hour of Tuen Mun town centre, is one of the and a gateway to the Mai Po Marsh (see the number of crabs and mudskippers. most well-kept and attractive Buddhist tours ($70) leave the visitor centre at 9am, following section). To the west of Yuen Long Mai Po Marsh comprises some 1500 hec- 9.30am, 10am, 2pm, 2.30pm and 3pm on complexes in the territory. Guarding the is the Ping Shan Heritage Trail, one of the best spots tares of wetlands. The part open to visitors, entrance to the main temple are two stone Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, but to spend a tranquil hour or two in the western the Mai Po Nature Reserve, is in the centre. are only conducted in English when there lions and two stone elephants, and there New Territories. For more detailed information about this are attractive gardens outside. This is an are a minimum of 10 visitors. and other areas, contact the Hong Kong Bird Bus 76K, which runs between Yuen Long active monastery that preserves more of Watching Society (p223 ) . a traditional character than many smaller and the Fanling and Sheung Shui KCR East MAI PO MARSH Rail stations, will drop you off at Mai Po Lo temples; you’ll see Buddhist nuns in droves This fragile ecosystem (Map pp50–1 ) abutting wearing brown robes. MAI PO NATURE RESERVE Map pp50–1 Wai, a village along the main road just east Deep Bay, south of the border with the main- of the marsh. The WWFHK car park is about On the ground floor there’s a golden like- land, simply teems with life. It is a protected %2526 4473; San Tin, Yuen Long; admission $100

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS a 20-minute walk from there. Red minibus & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS ness of Buddha in a glass case; on the 2nd (plus $200 deposit); h9am-6pm; g76K from network of mud flats, gày-wài (shallow shrimp 17 from San Fat St in Sheung Shui also goes floor are three larger statues of Lord Gau- Fanling & Sheung Shui KCR East Rail stations or ponds), reed beds and dwarf mangroves, of- to Mai Po Lo Wai. Alternatively, a taxi from tama. The 1st floor is a vegetarian restaurant Yuen Long (On Tat Square station) fering a rich habitat of up to 340 species of Sheung Shui will cost $60. serving set meals and open to all (p196 ) . migratory and resident birds, more than a The 270-hectare nature reserve includes At the time of writing a new main com- third of them rarely seen elsewhere in the ter- the Mai Po Visitor Centre (%2471 8272) at the plex is nearing completion. The soaring ritory. The area attracts birds in every season northeastern end, where you must regis- % KAM TIN structure is 42m high with the top storey but especially winter, when an average 54,000 ter; the Mai Po Education Centre ( 2471 6306) The area around Kam Tin (Fertile Field; Map resembling a huge crystal lotus blossom migratory waterfowl, including such endan- to the south, with displays on the history pp50–1 ) is where the Tangs, the first of Hong that will light up at night. gered species as the Dalmatian pelican, black- and ecology of the wetland and Deep Bay; Kong’s mighty Five Clans, settled in the 12th floating boardwalks and trails through the NEW TERRITORIES NEW Miu Fat Monastery is reached by Light Rail faced spoonbill, spotted and imperial eagle and century AD and where they eventually built TERRITORIES NEW line 751 from the Tuen Mun or Town Centre black vulture, pass through the marshes. In the mangroves and mud flats; and a dozen their walled villages (p19 ) . stops to Lam Tei station. The complex is on centre is the Mai Po Nature Reserve, jointly hides (towers or huts from where you can Walled villages, which usually had moats, the opposite side of Castle Peak Rd; cross managed by the World Wide Fund for Nature watch birds up close without being ob- are a reminder that Hong Kong’s early set- over the walkway and walk north 150m. Bus Hong Kong and the government’s Agriculture, served). Disconcertingly, the cityscape of tlers were constantly menaced by marauding 63X, from the Mong Kok MTR station and Fisheries & Conservation Department. Shenzhen looms to the north. pirates, bandits and imperial soldiers. They the Star Ferry terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui, also Despite its protected status, the marsh’s Visitors are advised to bring binoculars remain one of the most popular destinations stops in front of the monastery. future is precarious. The water quality in Deep (they may be available for rent at the visitor for visitors to the New Territories. Bay is among the worst in the Hong Kong centre for $20) and cameras, and to wear Kam Tin contains two fortified villages: Kat CHING CHUNG TEMPLE Map pp50–1 coastal area. The Environmental Protection comfortable walking shoes or boots but Hing Wai and Shui Tau Tsuen. Most tour- %2462 1507; Tsing Chung Koon Rd; h7am-6pm; Department (EPD) has found that levels of not bright clothing. It is best to visit at high ists go to Kat Hing Wai, as it is just off Kam dline 505 dissolved oxygen (DO) in the water have been tide (minimum 2m), when birds in their Tin Rd, the main thoroughfare, and easily Ching Chung Koon (Green Pine Temple) is a declining since 1988. As a result, the numbers tens of thousands – mostly ducks, gulls, accessible. Shui Tau Tsuen is larger and less peaceful Taoist temple complex northwest of crabs and mudskippers, on which the birds cormorants and kingfishers, but many rare touristy, but don’t expect to find remnants of Tuen Mun town centre. The main temple, feed in winter, have declined. If the lower links species as well – flock to the area. Ring the of ancient China. For details on Ping Kong, a which is on the left at the far end of the of the food chain are seriously imperilled, the weather hotline (%187 8200) or the Hong Kong seldom-visited walled village to the northeast, complex past rows of bonsai trees, bamboo birds that depend on Mai Po as a stopping Observatory (%2926 8200; www.hko.gov.hk/tide/etide see p119 . and ponds, is dedicated to Lu Sun Young, ground during migration could disappear, _main.htm) for tidal times. one of the eight immortals of Taoism who taking with them endangered mammals such Foreign visitors (but not Hong Kong KAT HING WAI Map pp50–1 lived in the 8th century. Flanking a statue as the leopard cat and otter. residents) can visit the nature reserve g64K of him are two of his disciples. Outside the unaccompanied but numbers are limited, This tiny village is 500 years old and was so call well in advance to book a time. entrance to the main temple are pavilions (Continued on page 117) walled in some time during the early Ming 108 117 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com village to the north was built in 1722 and FUNG YING SIN TEMPLE Map pp50–1 LUNG YEUK TAU HERITAGE TRANSPORT – KAM TIN contains an iron bell weighing 106kg. %2669 9186; 66 Pak Wo Rd, Fanling; h9am- There’s been a lot of building in and 5pm; dFanling TRAIL Bus Bus 64K stops along Kam Tin Rd on its way around Shui Tau Tsuen in recent years – The main attraction in the area is this huge between Yuen Long and Tai Po Market KCR East Rail massive Tsing Long Hwy and the KCR West Taoist temple complex opposite the Fanling Walking Tour stations; bus 77K also goes to Yuen Long, Sheung Rail extension straddle it to the west – and KCR East Rail station, and connected to it 1 Lo Wai Begin this walk about a kilometre Shui and Fanling. the old sits rather uncomfortably with the by an overhead walkway and subway. It has northeast of the KCR station on Luk Tung St. new. But the further north you walk beyond wonderful exterior murals of Taoist im- The first real port of call on this trail are the the village, the calmer and more tranquil dynasty (1368–1644). It contains just one mortals and the Chinese zodiac, an orchard impressive brick enclosing walls facing this it gets. main street, off which a host of dark and terrace, herbal clinic and a vegetarian restau- tiny walled village and just to the east a lovely To reach Shui Tau Tsuen, which is sign- narrow alleyways lead. There are quite a rant (ground & 1st fl, Bldg A7; h10am-5pm). Most Tin Hau Temple with two 18th-century bells. posted from Kam Tin Rd, walk north, go few new buildings and retiled older ones important are the dozen ancestral halls be- under the subway below the Kam Tin in the village. A small temple stands at the hind the main temple, where the ashes of (h9am- Bypass, pass Kam Tai Rd and cross over the 2 Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall end of the street. the departed are deposited in what might river to Chi Ho Rd. Go over the small bridge 1pm & 2-5pm Wed-Mon) was built in 1525 in honour Visitors are asked to make a donation be described as miniature tombs, complete spanning a stream, turn right and then left of the founder of the Tang clan, and one of the when they enter the village; put the money with photographs. to enter the village from the east. The first largest such structures in the New Territories. in the coin slot by the entrance. You can thing you’ll pass is the Yi Tai Study Hall. take photographs of the old Hakka women MARKETS Map pp50–1 in their traditional black trousers, tunics Wo Mun & Luen On Sts, Fanling; Chi Cheong Rds, and distinctive bamboo hats with black WALK FACTS FANLING & SHEUNG SHUI Sheung Shui; h6am-8pm; g77K Start Lok Tung St in Fanling (green minibus 54K from cloth fringes, but they’ll expect you to pay What were two lazy country villages (Map pp50– These two lively markets frequented by Fanling KCR station) (around $10). 1) just a few years ago, Fanling and Sheung Hakka people are worth a look, particularly End Siu Hang Tsuen (green minibus 56K to Fanling Kat Hing is just south of Kam Tin Rd. If Shui now form one of the largest New Town early (ie before 10am). Sheung Shui market is KCR station) travelling from Yuen Long, get off at the conurbations in the New Territories, with 250m north of the Sheung Shui KCR East Distance 4.5km first bus stop on Kam Tin Rd, cross the road some 300,000 inhabitants. Get a feel for what & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Rail station. To reach Fanling market in the old Time 2½ to three hours & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS and walk east for 10 minutes. Alternatively they were once like by walking around the district of Luen Wo Hui, walk north along Fuel stop Fanling market take a taxi from Kam Sheung Rd KCR West Luen Wo Hu district at the northern end of station for less than $15. Sha Tau Kok Rd for about 1.5km or catch Fanling. Major sights are thin on the ground bus 77K from the Fanling KCR East Rail here, but there’s an important Taoist temple station. This bus carries on to the market in SHUI TAU TSUEN Map pp50–1 within easy walking distance and, a short bus LUNG YEUK TAU HERITAGE Sheung Shui. 0300 m g64K ride away, a seldom-visited walled village and TRAIL 0 0.2 miles This 17th-century village, 15 minutes’ walk the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail (opposite ; Map pp50–1 ). 5 north of Kam Tin Rd and signposted, is The posh 18-hole Hong Kong Golf Course (see p224 ) PING KONG Map pp50–1 END famous for its prow-shaped roofs decorated at Fanling will be a draw for some. g77K

NEW TERRITORIES NEW with dragons and fish along the ridges. Tiny Fanling and Sheung Shui are in the north- This sleepy walled village in the hills south TERRITORIES NEW traditional houses huddle inside Shui Tau central New Territories, much closer to the of Sheung Shui is seldom visited by outsid- San Wai Tsuen’s walls. mainland (5km) than they are to Tsim Sha ers. Like other walled villages still inhabited Village The Tang Kwong U Ancestral Hall (h9am-1pm & Tsui (20km). They are linked by San Wan Rd, in Hong Kong, it is a mix of old and new,

d 2-5pm Wed, Sat & Sun) and, just north of it, the along which the bulk of buses and green mini- and has a lovely little Tin Hau temple in the R ok K h buses serving the two New Towns travel. centre. You can also go exploring around au Tang Ching Lok Ancestral Hall ( 9am-1pm & 2-5pm a T Wed, Sat & Sun) in the middle of the village, the farming area behind the village com- Sh were built in the early 19th century for pound. 4 ancestor worship. The ancestors’ names TRANSPORT – FANLING & To get to Ping Kong from Sheung Shui, are listed on the altar in the inner hall and SHEUNG SHUI catch green minibus 58K from the huge on the long boards down the side. The minibus station south of the Sheung Shui sculpted fish, on the roof of the entrance KCR Take the KCR to Fanling and Sheung Shui East Landmark North shopping centre on San hall, symbolise luck; in Cantonese, the word Rail stations. Wan Rd. The centre is a short walk north- for ‘fish’ (yéw) sounds similar to the word Bus Most onward travel connections depart from, west of Sheung Shui KCR East Rail station. Alternatively, bus 77K between Yuen Long for ‘plenty’ or ‘surplus’. Between these or close to, KCR East Rail stations. Bus 76K to Yuen er Sui Wan R iv 3 two buildings is the small Hung Shing Temple. Long and Mai Po Marsh departs from Pak Wo Rd in and the Sheung Shui and Fanling KCR East R ung South of them is Shui Tau Tsuen’s most Fanling and Choi Yun Rd in Sheung Shui. Bus 77K Rail stations travels along Fan Kam Rd. g T N d impressive sight, the renovated Yi Tai Study to Ping Kong stops at Yuen Long Jockey Club Rd in Alight at the North District Hospital stop t S Hall (h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Wed, Sat & Sun), built in Fanling and Po Shek Wu Rd in Sheung Shui. and walk southeast along Ping Kong Rd to t n e u h C the first half of the 19th century and named the village. n 2 Green Minibus Bus 58K heads to Ping Kong from On Kui S O Shek Lo 1 after the gods of literature and martial arts. San Wan Rd in Sheung Shui. A taxi from the Sheung Shui KCR East START The Tin Hau temple on the outskirts of the Lok Tung Rail station to Ping Kong will cost $20. St 118 119 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com The entire hall is richly decorated with fine Allow at least half a day for either trip. There 0 300 m TAI PO 0 0.2 miles wood carvings, colourful plaster mouldings is an inland route to the university, but the To San Mun and murals. coastal route linking the university with Tai To Lam Tsuen Tsai (4.5km) O Mei Tuk has the best views. Another option Wishing Tree (2.5km) n Chee Rd Tai Po Plaza d R 3 Walled Villages Turning left, away from is to follow Ting Kok Rd east to the fishing KCR Railway k T o a d i P K On RdTai village San Mun Tsai (Map pp50–1 ) . o R the hall, heading northwest over the next T ai g W g On Pong Rd in

o n R T 800m you’ll pass more little villages, includ- d u e Tai Po

h To San Mun

C Centre Tsai (5.5km); ing Wing Ning Wai and Wing Ning Tsuen, HONG KONG RAILWAY MUSEUM n Tai Mei Tuk (8.5km) whose houses are at different heights for feng Map p121 O Tai Po Tai Wo Rd shui reasons. %2653 3455; 13 Shung Tak St; admission free; Tai Wo Tai Wo Tsuen River Bridge Lam h9am-5pm Wed-Mon; dTai Wo Rd Nga 4 Sin Shut Study Hall After crossing Sha The museum is housed in the former Tai Po S Shing t o Tai Po Hui k Yan P Yi a Tsi c Tau Kok Rd, keep ahead rather than following Po Market train station, built in 1913 in P k St

ng Yuen St Sui Hing St Plo ve the road on the left. Built in 1840 and boasting traditional Chinese style, and spills into the Fu Shin r C On o 7 K ve wo Clothing Rd some fine tiles. outside garden. Exhibits, including a nar- ng St 4 W F 6 Market 2 a uk d i St Y R Luk Heung La row-gauge steam locomotive dating back R a d Rd S n n Ka o h S H u t u F 5 San Wai & Siu Hang Tsuen to 1911, detail the history of the develop- n The last n g Kwong t O Tak S Fuk La walled village on the trail, San Wai and Siu ment of rail transport in the territory. There 1 Wai Yi Four St Tai Wing La Lanes Hang Tsuen now contains mostly modern is also much attention paid to the opening Tai Ming Square SIGHTS (pp120–1) t Po Heung St La S

buildings. From here you can pick up the of the Kowloon–Canton Railway in 1910 u Hong Kong Railway Museum a Heung Sze ong La T 1 minibus back to the centre of Fanling. A taxi and its original terminus in Tsim Sha Tsui, 佭␃䨉䏃म⠽仼...... B2 n a

2 W W Man Mo Temple ᭛℺ᒳ...... B2 Wui Tai Kw to the KCR station will cost just over $15. which moved to Hung Hong in 1975. 5 St a Old Tai Po District Office ໻ඨ⧚⇥ᑰ ....3 D3 n Covered Tau Kok La With any number of daai-pàai-dawng (street You can get to the museum most easily Tai Po Market ໻ඨ㸫Ꮦ ...... 4 B2 Tai Po by alighting at Tai Wo KCR East Rail sta- Market 3 stalls) and noodle shops, Fanling market (p119 ) TRANSPORT (pp269–86) Park & is just over 1km northwest of the start of the tion, walking south through the Tai Wo Bus & Minibus Stop Ꮘ຿ঞᇣᏈキ ...... 5 C3 Sports Ground Tai Po & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS trail. Shopping Centre and housing estate, and Bus Stop 70,72,72A & 74 & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS 6 To Bus Terminal; Market 70, 72, 72Aঞ 74㰳Ꮘ຿キ ...... C2 Uptown Plaza; Station crossing the Lam Tsuen River via Tai Wo Minibus 25K 25KᇣᏈ ...... 7 B2 Minibus/Maxicab Bridge (the small one with the Chinese Terminal (200m) TAI PO roof) leading from Po Nga Rd. The museum Eating p196 is just southeast. wish coming true. But things got, er, out is one of the busiest and most interesting Another large residential and industrial New of hand just once too often, and in 2005, a markets in the New Territories. Towards the week after the end of Chinese New Year, a northern end of the same street, the dou- Town, Tai Po (Map p121 ) is the springboard for LAM TSUEN WISHING TREE Map pp50–1 excursions into Plover Cove Country Park and large branch of the tree came crashing to ble-hall Man Mo Temple (h8am-6pm) is a major Lam Kam Rd, Fong Ma Po; g64K Pat Sin Leng Country Park. Four Lanes Square, the ground, dashing most punters’ wishes centre of worship for the Tai Po area. It was Until a short time ago Tai Po was the where four pedestrian streets converge in the once and for all. founded in the late 19th century and, like

NEW TERRITORIES NEW springboard for this large banyan tree, TERRITORIES NEW centre of town, is a popular shopping area. The Focus switched to another tree nearby, the Man Mo Temple found in Sheung Wan laden with coloured streamers of paper tied Old Tai Po District Office (Wan Tau Kok Lane) which became the new arboreal oracle ( p67 ), it is dedicated to the gods of literature was built in to oranges, in the village of Fong Ma Po to 1907 and is one of the oldest examples of West- while the original was left to recover. How- and of war. the southwest. The idea was to write your ever, this practice soon was stopped, too. ern architecture in the New Territories. wish on a piece of paper, tie it to the citrus Tai Po lies north and south of the Lam In the name of conservation, wish makers fruit and then throw it as high as you could can now only tie their wishing papers to PLOVER COVE Tsuen River, at the westernmost point of Tolo up into the tree. If your fruit lodged in the Harbour, making it an excellent springboard Chinese-style wooden racks. You can still The area around Plover Cove Reservoir (Map branches, you were in luck – and the higher buy the wishing papers from vendors but pp50–1 ) is good hiking and cycling country and for excursions into Plover Cove Country Park it went, the more chance there was of your and Pat Sin Leng Country Park. It’s an attrac- you’re unlikely to find any oranges for sale. well worth at least a full day’s exploring. The tive market town and home to the Hong Kong At least there’s a small Tin Hau temple nearby, village of Tai Mei Tuk, the springboard for Railway Museum (right ) . replete with fortune-tellers, to compensate most of the activities in the Plover Cove area, Bicycles can be rented in season from sev- TRANSPORT – TAI PO for your curtailed wish making. is about 6km northeast of Tai Po Market KCR eral stalls around Tai Po Market KCR East To reach the tree catch bus 64K from East Rail station. Rail station, but try to arrive early – they often KCR Take the KCR to Tai Po Market or Tai Wo East the Tai Po Market KCR East Rail station and It may be worthwhile getting a copy of Uni- run out during the busiest times. There are a Rail stations. alight at Fong Ma Po. versal Publications’ Tseung Kwan O, Sai Kung, number of bicycle shops lining Kwong Fuk Bus Bus 71K runs between Tai Wo and Tai Po Market Clearwater Bay or else the Countryside Series Rd northwest of the KCR station. KCR East Rail stations. TAI PO MARKET Map p121 map North-East & Central New Territories (see p295 ). One cycling route not to miss is the ride to Green Minibus For onward travel start at Tai Po Fu Shin St; h6am-8pm; dTai Wo Bicycles can be rented at Tai Mei Tuk Plover Cove Reservoir (p122 ) on the northeast side Market KCR station or Heung Sze Wui St for bus 20K Not to be confused with the KCR East Rail at several locations, including Lung Kee Bikes of Tolo Harbour. Another is to the Chinese to San Mun Tsai; catch the bus at Tsing Yuen St for station of the same name, this street-long (%2662 5266; Ting Kok Rd, Lung Mei village; bicycle rental University of Hong Kong ( p123 ) in Ma Liu bus 25K to Ng Tung Chai (Tai Mo Shan). outdoor wet market is a stone’s throw Shui, on the southwest side of the harbour. from the Hong Kong Railway Museum and per day $25; h9.30am-6pm). A bicycle track along 120 121 lonelyplanet.com the coast runs from Tai Mei Tuk to Chinese (named after the ‘Eight Immortals’ of Tao- istration building at the top of the hill; for lonelyplanet.com University (opposite ) at Ma Liu Shui. Ting Kok ism) to Wong Leng Shan (639m). The trail TRANSPORT – TAI PO KAU the museum, get off at the second stop. The Rd in Lung Mei village is also where you’ll then carries on westward to Hok Tau Reser- bus runs every 20 to 30 minutes daily and is find a row of popular restaurants (p196 ) . Row- voir and Hok Tau Wai (12km, four hours). Bus Tai Po Kau Nature Reserve is well served by free except on Sunday ($5) from September boats are available for hire from Sang Lee Boat buses. Bus 70 passes through Jordan and Mong Kok to May. From June to August, it costs $1 Rental (%2660 5402; small/big boat per hr $20/50, 6hr PLOVER COVE RESERVOIR Map pp50–1 on its way here. Bus 72 can be used to get here from Monday to Saturday and $5 on Sundays. $120/250; h9.30am-6pm) on the picture-postcard g75K nearby the Sha Tin and Tai Po Market KCR East Rail stations. bay south of the main parking lot on Tai Mei Plover Cove Reservoir was completed in Tuk Rd, where buses and minibuses termi- KCR A taxi from Tai Po Market KCR East Rail station SHA TIN 1968 and holds 230 million cubic metres p265 nate. Adjacent to the car park is the Tai Mei Tuk will cost around $20, and from the University KCR Sleeping of water; before then Hong Kong suffered Map p124 Fish Farm (p224 ) , where you can try your luck East Rail station about $38. Sha Tin (Sandy Field; ) is an enormous from critical water shortages and ration- New Town (population 637,000) built mostly angling for some freshwater fish. ing was not uncommon. Even after the The Plover Cove Country Park Visitor Centre (Map pp50–1; on land that was once a mud flat and produced reservoir opened, water sometimes had to and the much-touted, over-priced Museum some of the best rice in imperial China. Sha %2498 9326; h9.30am-4pm Sat, Sun & public holidays), be rationed; taps were turned on for only % Tin retains some traditional Chinese houses, a short distance further east from the car park of Ethnology ( 2657 6657; www.taipokau.org; 2 Hung eight hours a day through the dry winter giving parts of it a historical feel absent in on Ting Kok Rd, is where the Pat Sin Leng Nature Lam Dr; adult/concession $25/15; h1-6pm Sun & public of 1980-81. The reservoir was built in a most of the other New Towns. Hong Kong Trail (see below ) to Bride’s Pool starts. holidays). In the same complex is the delight- very unusual way. Rather than build a dam Chinese flock to Sha Tin on the weekends to ful Little Egret Restaurant ( p196 ). across a river, of which Hong Kong has very place their bets at the nearby racecourse or PAT SIN LENG NATURE TRAIL few, a barrier was erected across the mouth to shop at Sha Tin’s New Town Plaza (Map p124 ), Map pp50–1 of a great bay. The sea water was siphoned UNIVERSITY one of the biggest shopping centres in the g75K out and fresh water – mostly piped in from The Chinese University of Hong Kong (Map pp50–1 ; New Territories. For visitors, the drawcards This excellent (and easy) 4.4km-long trail, the mainland – was pumped in. %2609 6000; www.cuhk.edu.hk/v6/en/), established are the temples and one of the best museums which should take from two to 2½ hours, in 1963, is in Ma Liu Shui and served by Uni- in Hong Kong. leads from the Plover Cove Country Park versity KCR East Rail station. It is situated on Sha Tin lies in a narrow valley on both Visitor Centre at Tai Mei Tuk and heads TAI PO KAU a beautiful campus and its art museum is well banks of a channel of the Shing Mun River. & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS northeast for 4km to Bride’s Pool; there are South of Tai Po is the small settlement of Tai Fo Tan, where the racecourse is located, is to & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Po Kau, which most visitors wouldn’t give a worth a visit. signboards numbered 1 to 22 so there is Ma Liu Shui and the Chinese University of the north and northeast, and Tai Wai, where second thought were it not for the wonder- little danger of getting lost. The elevation Hong Kong are southeast of Tai Po and Tai Po you’ll find the Hong Kong Heritage Museum, ful nature reserve here. Tai Po Kau Nature gain is only 300m, the scenery is excellent Kau, overlooking Tolo Harbour. The Univer- is to the south. Though once separate vil- Reserve lies south of Tai Po, less than 1km and the two waterfalls at Bride’s Pool are sity KCR East Rail station is southeast of the lages, they are now extensions of the Sha Tin inland from Tolo Harbour. The main entrance delightful, but the place gets packed on four campuses (Chung Chi Campus, New Asia conurbation. Sha Tin KCR East Rail station is the weekend. You can either return to Tai and the information centre are at the village Campus, Shaw Campus and United Campus). west of (and connected to) New Town Plaza Mei Tuk via Bride’s Pool Rd on foot or catch of Tsung Tsai Yuen in the northernmost part Ferries from Ma Liu Shui ferry pier, opposite in central Sha Tin. Buses arrive at and depart green minibus 20C, which stops at Tai Mei of the reserve along Tai Po Rd. the university on the eastern side of Tolo Hwy from the KCR East Rail station, the bus station

NEW TERRITORIES NEW Tuk before carrying on to Tai Po Market and about 500m northeast of University sta- below New Town Plaza and the one at City TERRITORIES NEW KCR station. On Sunday and public holidays TAI PO KAU NATURE RESERVE tion, serve the Sai Kung Peninsula (p126 ) and One Plaza on Ngan Shing St on the opposite only, bus 275R links Bride’s Pool with Tai Map pp50–1 Tap Mun Chau (p128 ) twice daily (p274 ) . A taxi side of the channel. You can rent bicycles from Po. If you carry on north from Bride’s Pool Tai Po Rd; g70 or 72 from the station to the pier will cost $12.50. several kiosks in Sha Tin Park, south of New to Luk Keng on Starling Inlet, you can catch The Tai Po Kau Nature Reserve is a thickly Town Plaza shopping centre, including Power green minibus 56K, which will take you forested 460-hectare ‘special area’ and is Three Company (Map p124 ; %2603 0498; Kiosk No 3; per hr to Fanling KCR station. Those looking for CHINESE UNIVERSITY OF HONG Hong Kong’s most extensive woodlands. It KONG ART MUSEUM Map pp50–1 Mon-Fri $20, per hr Sat & Sun $25; h9am-7pm). a more strenuous hike can join stage No is home to many species of butterflies, am- 9 of the Wilson Trail ( p227 ) at Tai Mei Tuk on %2609 7416; www.cuhk.edu.hk/ics/amm; phibians, birds, dragonflies and trees, and Sir Run Run Shaw Hall, Central Ave; admission free; the Plover Cove Reservoir and head west is a superb place in which to enjoy a quiet into the steep Pat Sin Leng range of hills h10am-5pm (closed public holidays); TRANSPORT – SHA TIN walk. The reserve is crisscrossed with four dUniversity KCR Sha Tin, Tai Wai (Map pp50–1 ), Fo Tan (Map main tracks ranging in length from 3km The Chinese University of Hong Kong Art pp50–1 ) and Racecourse (Map pp50–1 ) East Rail (red trail) to 10km (yellow trail), and a short Museum is divided into two sections. The stations. TRANSPORT – PLOVER COVE nature trail of less than 1km. If possible, four-floor East Wing Galleries house a avoid the reserve on Sunday and public permanent collection of Chinese paintings, Train Che Kung Temple (Map pp50–1) station. Bus Take bus 75K (and additionally 74K or 275R on holidays, when the crowds descend upon calligraphy, ceramics and other decorative Bus Buses into and out of Sha Tin leave from/termi- Sundays and holidays) from Tai Po Market KCR East the place en masse. arts, including 2000-year-old bronze seals nate at City One Plaza Sha Tin bus station. Bus 182 Rail station (Map p121 ) in Tai Po. The reserve is supposed to emphasise and a large collection of jade flower carv- links Sha Tin with Wan Chai, Admiralty and Central. Green Minibus Bus 20C passes through Tai Po conservation and education rather than ings. The West Wing Galleries stage five to Bus 170 connects Sha Tin KCR East Rail bus station Market KCR station and Heung Sze Wui St (Map recreation, and about 1km northwest of six special exhibitions each year. with Causeway Bay and Aberdeen. Bus 299 shuttles p121 ) in Tai Po on its way to Plover Cove. the reserve entrance and down steep Hung A shuttle bus from University station between Sha Tin and Sai Kung. Lam Drive is the Kerry Lake Egret Nature Park travels through the campus to the admin- 122 123 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 10,000 BUDDHAS MONASTERY leading up to the monastery. An alternative hill-side after Tai Wai KCR East Rail station, introductory video in English on the hour. Map pp50–1 route down is to take the path from the but before the train enters the tunnel. There’s also a lovely teahouse (h10am-6pm). %2691 1067; www.10kbuddhas.org; admission lower level. This will take you back down Along with five thematic (ie temporary) free; h9am-6pm; dSha Tin to the houses at Pai Tau Village by the rail CHE KUNG TEMPLE Map p124 galleries, the 1st floor contains the best of Perched on Po Fook Hill about 500m north- station. %2691 1733; Che Kung Miu Rd; admission free; the museum’s permanent collections: the west of Sha Tin KCR East Rail station, this h7am-6pm; dChe Kung Temple New Territories Heritage Hall, with mock-ups of quirky temple is well worth a visit. Built in AMAH ROCK Map pp50–1 This large Taoist temple complex, built in traditional shops, a Hakka fishing village and the 1950s, the complex actually contains This boulder southwest of Sha Tin may look 1993, is on the opposite bank of the Shing history of the New Towns; the Cantonese Opera more than 10,000 Buddhas – some 12,800 like just a rock, but it’s an oddly shaped Mun River channel in Tai Wai. It’s dedicated Heritage Hall, where you can watch old operas miniature statues line the walls of the main one and, like many local landmarks in Hong to Che Kung, a Song-dynasty general on video with English subtitles, ‘virtually’ temple. Dozens of life-sized golden statues Kong, it carries a legend. It seems that for credited with ridding Sha Tin of the plague; make yourself up as a Cantonese opera of Buddha’s followers flank the steep steps many years a fisherman’s wife would stand you’ll see an enormous and quite power- character on computer or just enjoy the leading to the monastery complex. There on this spot in the hills above Lion Rock Coun- ful statue of the good general in the main costumes and sets; and the Chao Shao-an Gal- are several temples and pavilions split over try Park, watching for her husband to return temple to the left as you enter the com- lery, devoted to the work of the eponymous two levels, as well as a nine-storey pagoda from the sea while carrying her baby on her plex. The main courtyard, flanked by eight water-colourist (1905–98) and founder of that can be climbed. For sustenance the back. One day he didn’t come back – statues of Taoist immortals, is always a hive the Lingnan School of painting ( p33 ). complex also has a vegetarian restaurant she waited and waited. The gods appar- of activity. The 2nd floor contains another thematic (h10.15am-4pm or 5pm). Be aware the temple ently took pity on her and transported To reach the temple, take the KCR East gallery and the TT Tsui Gallery of Chinese Art, an may close if it’s raining heavily. her to heaven on a lightning bolt, leaving Rail to Tai Wai station and change to the Aladdin’s cave of fine ceramics, pottery, To reach the monastery, take exit B at her form in stone. The name of the rock Ma On Shan Rail extension, alighting at Che bronze, jade and lacquerware, stone carv- Sha Tin KCR station and walk down the in Cantonese is Mong Fu Shek, or ‘Gazing Kung Temple station. The temple is just ings, and furniture. You may be interested ramp, passing a series of traditional houses out for Husband Stone’. It’s a popular place west of here. in some of the gifts various Chinese prov- at Pai Tau village on the left. Take the left of pilgrimage for girls and young lovers inces presented to China for the reunifica- onto Pai Tau St, and turn right onto Sheung during the Maiden’s Festival on the seventh HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM tion, which are on display in the hallways. To reach the Hong Kong Heritage Mu- Wo Che St. At the end of this road, a series day of the seventh moon (mid-August). Map p124

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS seum, take the KCR East Rail to Sha Tin & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS of signs in English will direct you to the left As you take the KCR south from Sha Tin %2180 8188; www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk; 1 along a concrete path and through bam- to Kowloon, Amah Rock is visible to the station and walk south along Tai Po Rd. If Man Lam Rd; adult/concession $10/5, admission coming from the Che Kung Temple, walk boo groves to the first of some 400 steps east (ie on the left-hand side) up on the h free Wed; 10am-6pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am- east along Che Kung Miu Rd, go under the 7pm Sun; dSha Tin 0 500 m subway and cross the footbridge over the SHA TIN 0 0.3 miles Located southwest of Sha Tin town centre, channel. The museum is 200m to the east. this exceptional museum is housed in a three-storey, purpose-built structure that is F o 6 SHA TIN RACECOURSE Map pp50–1 T a reminiscent of an ancestral hall. It has both n R %1817 hotline; www.sha-tin.com; Penfold Park; d rich permanent collections and innovative

Sui Lek Yuen Rd B admission on race days public stands $10, members a NEW TERRITORIES NEW n temporary exhibits in a dozen galleries. TERRITORIES NEW d y R a n enclosures $100-150; dRacecourse or Fo Tan o B The ground floor contains a book and gift W ri 4 n d e g Northeast of Sha Tin town centre is Hong u e Y shop, the wonderful Children’s Discovery Gallery, with eight learning and play zones (includ- Kong’s second racecourse, which opened in 1978 and can accommodate up to 80,000 ing ‘Life in a Village’, ‘Undersea Garden’, d Pai Ta R u St punters. In general, races are held on Satur- iu ‘Mai Po Marsh’) for kids aged four to 10, K g n u day afternoon – and sometimes on Sunday S h a Hong Kong Toy Story hands-on area for tots h C Yuen a i 10 T a Chau and public holidays – from September to in T and an Orientation Theatre, with a 12-minute R Shing Mun River Kok City u Ngan Shing St

r Y a u One d Sha Tin l t C en R o S l m C l d e i R r m 11 h t 5 a H n i u o e tt n P C e K

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a Pak Hok d h n INFORMATION EATING (pp196–7) SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (p123) o Ting St S S L h i g n Prince of Wales Hospital A-1 Bakery Shop...... (see 5) Power Three Company n g

u Lek Yeun S T 1 t 1 9 ࿕⠒ᮃ㽾⥟䝿䰶...... D2 A-1 Restaurant ...... (see 5) ஂ䒞ߎ⾳...... B2

S Bridge

h Lion Rock i o n g Kaga Japanese Restaurant g a SIGHTS (p125) T n M o u F Sha Tin SLEEPING (p265) n T t y ࡴ䊔᮹ᴀ᭭⧚...... (see 5) un Rd Park S Sha Hw Che Kung Temple ne am k k 10 l Rd L o Tin Wai Le Ascension House...... A2 K Sha ...... 2 A3 Saints Alp Teahouse...... (see 5) n ha 䒞݀ᒳ a 3 S Tai Rd Regal Riverside Hotel M u To Shek Hong Kong Heritage Museum Star Seafood Restaurant Wai T i d u K 11 R n g Sha Tin ...... 6 D1 呫䈾䜦ᑫ...... C2 n ...... 3 B3 ᯢ᯳⍋冂䜦ᆊ n n u Wai 佭␃᭛࣪म⠽仼 e e h u l h R C Sun Keung Kee Roasted Goose & C Che Kung ai g d T SHOPPING (p123) TRANSPORT (p286) in Temple Seafood Restaurant Sh 7 iu Rd City One Plaza Sha Tin ᮄᔋ㿬...... 7 A3 China Travel Service g M un in Rd ...... 4 D1 K ha T ≭⬄㄀ϔජ Ё೟ᮙ㸠⼒ ...... (see 5) he S C 2 To Amah Rock (3.5km); New Town Plaza ENTERTAINMENT (p219) Tai Kowloon (6km) Wai ᮄජᏖᒷจ ...... 5 B2 Sha Tin Town Hall ≭⬄໻᳗ූ ..... 8 B2 124 125 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com June; a list of race meetings is available the last areas left in Hong Kong – the Outly- (White Sand Bay), is home to the Hebe Haven from the HKTB or the racecourse website. ing Islands notwithstanding – reserved for Sai Kung Town Yacht Club (%2719 9682, 2719 3673; www.hhyc.org.hk), Originally a fishing village, Sai Kung Town Bets are easily placed at one of the outdoor activities, and 60% of the peninsula which has a large fleet of yachts and other (Map p127 ) is now more of a leafy suburb for numerous computerised betting terminals is one huge 7500-hectare country park, di- pleasure craft all but choking Marina Cove. people working in Kowloon and on Hong run by the Hong Kong Jockey Club ( p230 ). There is vided into Sai Kung East and Sai Kung West. To swim at Trio Beach, opposite the ma- Kong Island, but it still has some of the feeling a worthwhile horseracing tour available for Though strictly speaking not on the peninsula, rina, catch a sampan from Hebe Haven to the of a port. Fishing boats put in an occasional the interested but uninitiated, through Gray the 28,880-hectare Ma On Shan Country Park is con- long, narrow peninsula called Ma Lam Wat; appearance, and down on the waterfront Line or Splendid Tours & Travel (see p298 ). tiguous with it and access is from Sai Kung along the way you’ll pass a small Tin Hau tem- there’s a string of seafood restaurants that The KCR Racecourse station, just west of Town. The hiking is excellent in Sai Kung – the ple on a spit of land jutting out to the south. draw customers from all around the terri- the track, opens on race days only. Other- MacLehose Trail ( p226 ) runs right across it – there’s The beach is excellent and the sampan trip tory. wise, get off at Fo Tan station and walk sailing galore and some of the best beaches in should only cost a few dollars. You can also Sai Kung Town is an excellent base for north along Lok King St, and its extension the territory are here. walk to the peninsula from Sai Kung Town; hikes into the surrounding countryside. A Lok Shun Path, for about 1.5km. The region is washed by Tolo Harbour to it’s about 4km. the north, Mirs Bay to the east and Port Shel- kaido trip to one or more of the little off- ter to the south. On the southern end of the shore islands and their secluded beaches is SAI KUNG PENINSULA peninsula is High Island Reservoir, once a sea also recommended (see boxed text, opposite ). LIONS NATURE EDUCATION CENTRE channel and now Hong Kong’s second-largest Windsurfing equipment can be hired from Map pp50–1 Drinking & Nightlife p212 ; Eating p197 ; Sleeping p265 %2792 2234; Pak Kong; www.hknature.net/lnec The Sai Kung Peninsula (Map pp50–1 ), in the source of fresh water. the Windsurfing Centre (%2792 5605; hfrom 9.30am- A good website devoted exclusively to the 6pm Sat & Sun, call ahead weekdays) at Sha Ha (off /eng/; admission free; h9.30am-4.30pm Wed- northeastern New Territories, is the garden Mon; g92 spot of the New Territories. It is also one of area is the district council’s www.travelinsaikung Map p127 ), just north of Sai Kung Town. Bus .org.hk. 94, heading for the pier at Wong Shek and the This 34-hectare attraction, 2km northwest springboard for Tap Mun Chau, will drop you off. of Hebe Haven and just off Hiram’s Hwy, is Or you can walk there from town in about Hong Kong’s first nature education centre ISLAND HOPPING IN SAI KUNG 15 minutes. and comprises everything from an arbo- retum, a medicinal plants garden and an You can make any number of easy boat trips from Sai Kung Town, exploring the mosaic of islands that dot the harbour. insectarium, to a mineral and rocks corner It’s a delightful way to spend a few hours or even an entire day. Most kaidos (small, open-sea ferries) leave from the

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS and a shell house. We love the Dragonfly & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS pier on the waterfront, just in front of Hoi Pong Square. Hebe Haven Pond, which attracts up to a quarter of the The easiest (and cheapest) way to go is to jump aboard a ‘scheduled’ kaido (ie one that goes according to demand The very small bay of Hebe Haven (Map pp50–1) , more than 100 dragonfly species found in and when full) bound for the small island of Yim Tin Tsai ($15, 15 minutes). which Cantonese speakers call Pak Sha Wan On the way, the boat weaves through a number of small islands. The first island to the east of Sai Kung Town is 0 200 m Yeung Chau (Sheep Island). You’ll be able to spot a horseshoe-shaped burial plot up on the slope; for reasons dictated SAI KUNG TOWN 0 0.1 miles by feng shui, the Chinese like to position graves with decent views of the sea. Southeast of Yeung Chau, Pak Sha Chau (White Sand Island) has a popular beach on its northern shore. To Sai Kung Park Entrance (50m); Sha Ha (650m); Windsurfing Just beyond Pak Sha Chau is the northern tip of the much larger Kiu Tsui Chau (Sharp Island), arguably the most Centre (650m) popular island destination. Kiu Tsui Chau has several fine, sandy beaches: Kiu Tsui and, connected to it by a sand spit, Swimming d R Pool

NEW TERRITORIES NEW Kiu Tau on the western shore, and Hap Mun on the island’s southern tip. Both can be reached by kaido ($10) directly Tang Shiu a TERRITORIES NEW Kin Sports M i from Sai Kung Town. Ground a Sai Kung Fuk Man Rd Sai Kung W Town Hall Sports Yim Tin Tsai (Little Salt Field) is so-called because the original fisherfolk who lived here augmented their income by Centre salt-panning. A few minutes’ walk from the jetty up a small flight of steps to the left is St Joseph’s Chapel, the focal point C h of the island. This is Yim Tin Tsai’s only house of worship, which is most unusual in an area of Hong Kong where temples an M 7 an 4 devoted to Tin Hau proliferate. Apparently the villagers, who all belong to the same clan, converted to Catholicism 150 R 13 1 d

years ago after St Peter appeared on the island to chase away pirates who had been harassing them. 2 15 d 14 R Yim Tin Tsai is connected to the much larger island of Kau Sai Chau by a narrow spit of land that becomes submerged g 8 n u 18 16 T at high tide. Kau Sai Chau is the site of the 36-hole Jockey Club Kau Sai Chau Public Golf Course (Map p127 ; see also EATING (p197) o 10 P Hoi Pier Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant p224 ), a public link that can be reached by the course’s direct ferry from Sai Kung (adult/concession $50/30 return), Pong ¨« ”£ır†¸...... ^ 6 B3 Square 17 Dia...... 7 B2 which departs every 20 minutes daily from 6.40am to 9pm; the last boat back is at 10pm. Boats dock in Sai Kung Town Children's Fruit Playground Honeymoon Dessert M˘• ...... 8 A2 at the long pier opposite the new Sai Kung Waterfront Park. The 19th-century Hung Shing Temple at the southern tip Stands Wan King Path sui 11 Sai Kung Hoi Tin Hau (Inner Port Jaspa's...... 9 B2 of Kau Sai Chau won a Unesco restoration award in 2000. Temple Sha TPath Shelter) Pepperoni's Pizza ...... 10 A2 12 9 3 Beyond Kau Sai Chau is Leung Shuen Wan (High Island), a long trip from Sai Kung Town, and the High Island Sauce...... 11 B2 Sai Kung INFORMATION Reservoir, which was built in 1978 by damming what was once a large bay with dolooses (huge cement barriers shaped Market DRINKING (p212) Y HSBC R Sªy—— ...... 1 A2 i Poets ...... 12 B2 C h Nin Chuen St Post Office ] ...... 2 B2 The Duke ...... 13 B2 like jacks); sea water was then siphoned out and fresh water pumped in. You can see one example of a doloose, weighing un 5 S t Man Nin St Xtreme Bar & Restaurant...... 14 A2 25 tonnes, on display on the pier in Sai Kung Town (Map p127 ). Old SIGHTS (pp126–8) Town If you want to be out on the water for a longer period or to have greater flexibility as to where you go, you can hire 6 High Island Reservoir Doloose TRANSPORT (pp269–86) St ¨f ¸¸ﬁ ...... 3 B2 Bus Terminus ˝˚ ¿¿ ...... 15 C2 your own boat and kaido owners can usually be found trawling for fares. Explain to the kaido owner where you want ng See Cheu t Hong Kong & Kowloon Taxis g S Jockey Club Kau Sai Chau Public Golf Pon to go, how long you want to spend there and which way you wish to return. They don’t speak much English, but if you Hoi Course Pier ˝øˇª‚ … ¯ ˜˚¿ ...... 16 C2 point to the islands on Map pp50–1 in this book, they may get the picture. The usual price for this kind of trip is about æR ˛ „«– ‚ • ˙ ·a ^ Maxicab/Minibus Terminus ...... 4 C2 £—¡˝…—¡˝¿ ...... 17 C2 $120 on weekdays, more on the weekend. Sampan Hire ﬁ†‡ ...... 5 B3 New Territories Taxis —´‰ ˜˚¿ ....18 C2

126 127 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com is part of a restored Hakka village typical warded with a feeling that’s hard to come TRANSPORT – of those found here in the 19th century. by in Hong Kong: isolation. The sailing is TRANSPORT – TUNG PING CHAU The village was founded about 150 years particularly scenic from Wong Shek, as the SAI KUNG PENINSULA ago by the Wong clan, which built a kiln to boat cruises through the narrow Tai Tan Hoi Ferry Depart from Ma Liu Shui near University KCR Sai Kung Town make bricks. In the whitewashed dwellings, Hap – more reminiscent of a fjord in Norway East Rail station. Bus From Sai Kung Town bus 299 heads to Sha Tin pigpens and cattle sheds, all surrounded than a harbour in Hong Kong. Delightfully sleepy Tap Mun Chau doesn’t KCR East Rail, bus 92 runs to Diamond Hill and Choi by a high wall and watchtower to guard There are a couple of tiny settlements on the have accommodation, but you may get away Hung, bus 96R (Sunday and public holidays) heads against raids by pirates, are farm imple- northeastern side, including Sha Tau, where with pitching a tent. There’s only one restau- to Wong Shek, Hebe Haven, and Choi Hung and ments, objects of daily use, furnishings and you’ll find a food stall. rant on the island (p198 ) , but there are shops Diamond Hill MTR stations, while bus 792M calls at Hakka clothing. Tung Ping Chau is just 12km from the Tseung Kwan O and Tiu Keng Leng MTR stations. Bus selling snacks and drinks. For ferry routes, schedules and fares for Tap Mun Chau, see mainland’s Daya Bay nuclear power station 94 goes to Wong Shek. and has Hong Kong’s only radiation shelter, Green Minibus From Sai Kung Town, buses 1A, 1M Hoi Ha, Wong Shek, Chek p274 . The island is found off the northeast coast of the New Territories, where the Tolo at Tai Tong just north of the pier. and 1S (12.30am to 6.10am) go to Hebe Haven and Keng & Tai Long For ferry routes, schedules and fares for Choi Hung MTR station. There are several rewarding hikes at the north- Channel empties into Mirs Bay, which is Tai Pang Wan in Cantonese. Only Tung Ping Tung Ping Chau, see p274 . ern end of the Sai Kung Peninsula starting in Tung Ping Chau’s highest point is only Pak Tam Chung the little coves such as Hoi Ha, Wong Shek Chau to the northeast in Mirs Bay is more Bus No 94 from Sai Kung Town. remote. about 40m, but it has unusual rock layers in and Chek Keng, but the logistics can be a bit its cliffs, which glitter after the rain. The is- tricky. Be sure to take along a copy of the Sai As you approach the pier at Tap Mun vil- Hoi Ha lage, you’ll see fishing boats bobbing about land has some sandy beaches on its east coast Green minibus Minibus 7 makes the run from Sai Kung & Clearwater Bay Countryside Series that are good for swimming. The longest one, map or Universal Publications’ Tseung Kwan in the small bay and, to the south, people Kung Town daily, with the first departure at 8.45am working on fish-breeding rafts. Tap Mun vil- to the northeast, is Cheung Sha Wan. There is a and the last at 6.45pm. A taxi from there will cost O, Sai Kung, Clearwater Bay (p295 ) . lage is noted for its Tin Hau temple, which was small Tin Hau temple on the southwestern coast around $100. built during the reign of Emperor Kang Xi of the island, and some small caves dotting HOI HA WAN MARINE PARK Map pp50–1 of the Qing dynasty in the late 17th or early the cliffs. A good 6km walking trail encircles the %1823 hotline; Hoi Ha; ggreen minibus 7 whole island.

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Hong Kong. You can reach the centre on 18th century and is northeast from where the & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS bus 92 from Diamond Hill MTR and Choi A rewarding 6km walk in the area starts boat docks. The Tin Hau birthday festival in Hung, bus 96R on Sunday and holidays from the village of Hoi Ha (literally ‘Under late April/early May ( p17 ) is big here, although the Sea’), on the coast of Hoi Ha Bay, now most of the participants come from elsewhere CLEARWATER BAY PENINSULA from Diamond Hill to Wong Shek Pier, and Clearwater Bay Peninsula (Map pp50–1 ) is a green minibus 1A from Choi Hung. part of the Hoi Ha Wan Marine Park, a in Hong Kong. Part of the temple is devoted to 260-hectare protected area blocked off by wonderfully untamed and rough-contoured the god of war Kwan Tai (or Kwan Yu). backdrop to urban Hong Kong – at least on concrete booms from the Tolo Channel and Other attractions here include an easy (and Pak Tam Chung closed to fishing vessels. It’s one of the few its eastern shore. It is wedged in by Junk Bay signposted) walk northward to Mau Ping Shan (Tseung Kwan O) to the west and Clearwater Pak Tam Chung (Map pp50–1 ) is the start of the places in Hong Kong waters where coral (125m), the island’s highest point, a windy MacLehose Trail (p226 ) . still grows in abundance and is a favourite Bay (Tsing Sui Wan) sitting to the east; Joss pebble beach on the southeastern shore and an House Bay (Tai Miu Wan) lies to the south. NEW TERRITORIES NEW with divers. You can visit anytime, but 1½- odd stone formation called Balanced Rock, a cou- TERRITORIES NEW SAI KUNG COUNTRY PARK VISITOR hour tours of the marine park are available Junk Bay is now the site of Tseung Kwan O, ple of hundred metres south of the beach. a New Town built on reclaimed land with a CENTRE Map pp50–1 in English at 10.30am and 2.15pm on Satur- growing population of 325,000 and a sixth % h day, Sunday and public holidays. Be aware 2792 7365; Tai Mong Tsai Rd; 9.30am- MTR line, but the eastern coastline remains g that you must register with the Agriculture, TUNG PING CHAU 4.30pm Wed-Mon; 94 fairly unscarred and offers some exceptional While you’re in Pak Tam Chung, visit the Fisheries & Conservation Department (AFCD; %1823) Tung Ping Chau (Map pp50–1 ), sitting in splen- in advance, though. did isolation in Mirs Bay in the far northeast walks, fine beaches and one of the most im- Sai Kung Country Park Visitor Centre, portant temples dedicated to Tin Hau on the of the New Territories, is as remote as it gets which is to the south of the village, just South China coast. by the road from Sai Kung. It has excellent in Hong Kong. The distance from Ma Liu Shui TAP MUN CHAU to the southwest, from where the ferry serving Clearwater Bay Peninsula is on the south- maps, photographs and displays of the eastern edge of the New Territories. The area’s geology, fauna and flora, as well Eating p197 the island departs, is 25km. Tap Mun Chau (Map pp50–1 ) , which translates A remote, crescent-shaped island, it is part country park is divided into two parts: a long as its traditional villages and Hoi Ha Wan and narrow finger-shaped section stretching Marine Park. as ‘Grass Island’, is very isolated and retains of Plover Cove Country Park (%2498 9326; h9.30am- an old-world fishing village atmosphere. If 4pm Sat, Sun & public holidays). The island and the from Joss House Bay in the south almost to you have the time (count on a full day), it’s Port Shelter, and a half-moon-shaped sec- SHEUNG YIU FOLK MUSEUM waters around it, which teem with sea life definitely worth the trip, and you will be re- (especially corals), form Hong Kong’s fourth tion to the east between Lung Ha Wan and Map pp50–1 Clearwater Bay. %2792 6365; Pak Tam Chung Nature Trail; admis- marine park. At one time the island, which is called Tung sion free; h9am-4pm Wed-Mon; g94 TRANSPORT – TAP MUN CHAU BEACHES Map pp50–1 This museum is a leisurely 20-minute walk Ping Chau (East Peace Island) to distinguish Bus 91 passes Silverstrand Beach (Ngan Sin from Pak Tam Chung south along the 1km- Ferry Depart from Ma Liu Shui near University KCR it from Peng Chau (same pronunciation in Wan) north of Hang Hau before reaching long Pak Tam Chung Nature Trail. The museum East Rail station. Cantonese) near Lantau, supported a population of 3000, but now it is virtually deserted. Tai Au Mun; if you wish you can get off at 128 129 lonelyplanet.com tions, though the Clearwater Bay Country Park lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT – CLEARWATER BAY Visitor Centre (%2719 0032; h9.30am-4.30pm Wed- OUTLYING ISLANDS Mon) is to the southeast in Tai Hang Tun. PENINSULA You can take the small road (Lung Ha Wan The territory of Hong Kong (Map pp50–1 ) consists of 234 islands, in addition to Hong Kong Rd) north from Tai Au Mun to the beach at Island. Together these sparsely populated ‘Outlying Islands’ are the territory’s bolt holes and Bus Bus 91 runs between Diamond Hill and Choi its playgrounds. Hung MTR stations to Tai Au Mun. Lung Ha Wan (Lobster Bay) and return via the 2.3km Lung Ha Wan Country Trail. Among the magnets that attract local day-trippers and foreign visitors alike are country Green Minibus Bus 103M runs between Tseung parks, with hundreds of kilometres of hiking trails, fresh(er) air and examples of some of the Kwan O MTR station and Clearwater Bay. Bus 103 last remnants of traditional village life in Hong Kong. Explore them on a weekday and you’re runs to Kwun Tong ferry pier, and bus 16 to Po Lam TAI MIU TEMPLE Map pp50–1 likely to have great expanses of these islands all to yourself. MTR station. %2519 9155; h8am-5pm Hong Kong’s islands vary greatly in size, appearance and character. Many are little more Further south along Tai Au Mun Rd is this than uninhabited rocks poking out of the South China Sea, while Lantau is almost twice the ancient temple dedicated to Tin Hau. It is Silverstrand and go for a dip. If you’re head- size of Hong Kong Island. said to have been first built in the 13th cen- From the tranquil lanes of Cheung Chau and Peng Chau to the monasteries of Lantau and ing for Lung Ha Wan, get off the bus at Tai tury by two brothers from Fujian in grati- Au Mun village and start walking. From Sai the waterfront seafood restaurants of Lamma, Hong Kong’s islands offer a world of peace tude to the goddess for having spared their and quiet along with a host of sights and activities. The islands are a colourful encyclopaedia Kung, take bus 92 to where Hiram’s Hwy lives during a storm at sea. It is particularly and Clearwater Bay Rd meet and change of animal and plant life – a boon for nature lovers. What’s more, some of Hong Kong’s best busy during the Tin Hau birthday festival in beaches punctuate their rocky coasts. there to bus 91. late April/early May ( p17 ). Poisonous snakes are a rare but significant hazard to be aware of on Lamma and Lantau. From Tai Au Mun, Tai Au Mun Rd leads Just behind the temple is a Song-dynasty See p292 for more details. south to two fine, sandy beaches: Clearwater rock carving dating from 1274 and recording The islands listed here are all easily accessible from Hong Kong Island daily, and Cheung Bay First Beach and, a bit further southwest, both the visit of a superintendent of the Chau and Lantau can be reached from Kowloon on the weekend as well. For details on routes, Clearwater Bay Second Beach. In summer, try to Salt Administration and the history of two schedule and fares, see p274 . go during the week, as both beaches can temples in Joss House Bay. It is the oldest Because the tiny islands of Tap Mun Chau and Tung Ping Chau are best reached from the get very crowded on the weekend. inscription extant in Hong Kong. New Territories, they are covered on p128 and p129 . From Tai Miu, hikers can follow the & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS CLEARWATER BAY COUNTRY PARK 6.6km-long High Junk Peak Country Trail up to Tin & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Map pp50–1 Ha Shan (273m) and then continue on to High LAMMA p212 p198 p265 The heart of the country park is Tai Au Mun, Junk Peak (Tiu Yu Yung; 344m) before head- Drinking & Nightlife ; Eating ; Sleeping from where trails head off in various direc- ing eastward back to Tai Au Mun. With no roads or cars, leafy, low-rise Lamma (Map p132 ) makes a perfect place to find some space, peace and quiet. At 13.6 sq km, the O U T LY I N G I S L A N D S territory’s third-largest island after Lantau and Hong Kong Island, Lamma is home to Tian Tan Buddha via cable car ( p137 ) an estimated 5000 fisherfolk, farmers and Cheung Chau’s temples and street scenes ( p142 ) foreigners, and the hills above the main vil- Tai O’s old-world atmosphere ( p138 ) NEW TERRITORIES NEW lage, Yung Shue Wan, are strewn with small Lamma cross-island walk ( left ) OUTLYING ISLANDS homes and apartment blocks. Known mainly Pink dolphin–spotting ( p148 ) for the seafood restaurants at Sok Kwu Wan, the island’s ‘second’ village, Lamma also has Wan to the northwest and Sok Kwu Wan on some good beaches, excellent hiking and lively the east coast of the island. pubs. There’s a HSBC branch (%2982 0787; 19 Main St) Perhaps the most interesting way for visi- and a post office (3 Main St) in Yung Shue Wan. tors to see a good portion of the island is to Bicycles are available for rent from Hoi Nam follow the 4km-long Family Trail that runs be- Gift & Bicycle Shop (%2982 0128, 9364 4941; Ground fl, tween Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan. 37 Sha Po Old Village; per hr/day $20/60; h11am-7pm) This takes a little over an hour, and you can in Yung Shue Wan on the main path to Sok return to Central by ferry from Soke Kwu Kwu Wan. Wan. Those with extra time should carry on

to Tung O Wan, an idyllic bay some 30 minutes further south at the bottom of a steep YUNG SHUE WAN Map p132 hill, and perhaps return to Sok Kwu Wan via fYung Shue Wan ferry Mo Tat Wan. Though it’s the larger of the island’s two Lamma is the closest inhabited island to main villages, Yung Shue Wan (Banyan Tree Hong Kong Island; its northernmost tip is Bay) remains a small place, with little more only 3km across the East Lamma Channel than a main street following the curve of from Ap Lei Chau in Aberdeen. There are two the bay. Plastic was the big industry here main settlements on the island: Yung Shue at one time, but now restaurants, bars and 130 131 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com other tourism-related businesses are the time looking down onto Sok Kwu Wan main employers. There is a small Tin Hau (Picnic Bay), with its many fine restaurants, LAMMA’S ENDANGERED TURTLES temple dating from the late 19th century at and fishing boats and rafts bobbing in the Sham Wan has traditionally been the one beach in the whole of Hong Kong where endangered green turtles (Chelonia the southern end of Yung Shue Wan. bay. Although still a small settlement, Sok Kwu Wan supports at least a dozen water- mydas), one of three species of sea turtle found in Hong Kong waters, still struggle onto the sand to lay their eggs from front seafood restaurants that are popular early June to the end of August. SOK KWU WAN Map p132 Female green turtles, which can grow to a metre in length and weigh 140kg, take between 20 and 30 years to reach fSok Kwu Wan ferry with boaters. The small harbour at Sok Kwu Wan is filled with rafts from which cages are sexual maturity and always head back to the same beach where they were born to lay their eggs, which takes place If you continue on the Family Trail you’ll suspended and fish farmed. If entering Sok every two to six years. Fearing that Sham Wan would catch the eye of housing-estate developers and that the turtles encounter another pavilion on a ridge, this Kwu Wan from the south (ie from the Family would swim away forever, the area was declared a Site of Special Scientific Interest and closed. It is patrolled by the Trail linking it with Yung Shue Wan), you’ll Agriculture, Fisheries & Conservation Department (AFCD) from June to October. Some eight turtles are known to have pass three so-called ‘kamikaze caves’, grottoes nested here since 1997 and some are now being tracked by satellite. TRANSPORT – LAMMA measuring 10m wide and 30m deep and As well as developers, a major hurdle faced by the long-suffering turtles is the appetite of Lamma locals for their eggs. In 1994 three turtles laid about 200 eggs, which were promptly harvested and consumed by villagers. Several Ferry Yung Shue Wan pier to pier 4 of Outlying built by the occupying Japanese forces to house motorboats wired with explosives to years later villagers sold eggs to Japanese tourists for $100 each. There is now a $50,000 fine levied on anyone caught Islands ferry terminal in Central, Pak Kok Tsuen on the beach during the nesting season. Anyone taking, possessing or attempting to sell one of the eggs faces a fine (Lamma) and Aberdeen; Sok Kwu Wan pier to pier 4 disrupt Allied shipping during WWII. They were never used. Further on and near the of $100,000 and one year in prison. of Outlying Islands ferry terminal in Central, Man Tat Gwài-dáan, or ‘turtle egg’, by the way, is one of the rudest things you can call a Cantonese-speaking person. Wan (Lamma) and Aberdeen. entrance to Sok Kwu Wan is a totally renovated Tin Hau temple dating back to 1826. WIND TURBINE Map p132 net and has toilets, showers and changing 0 2 km rooms, but the view of the power station LAMMA 0 1.0 miles Standing in elegant contrast to that CO₂ belching, coal-fired power station, Lamma’s across the bay takes some getting used Pak Kok giant Wind Turbine, close to the top of the to. There are a few restaurants and drinks ridge just south east of Tai Peng village, stands nearby – the latter open on the Ap Lei Chau makes a stirring sight. There’s nothing to weekend only, except in summer – as well Pak Kok

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS as the Concerto Inn ( p200 ), a hotel that also & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Shan actually do here but admire its feathered Pak (138m) serves so-so Western food. Kok blades scything the breeze and to take in Tsuen the dramatic backdrop of freighters setting Luk Chau sail far below, with Hong Kong Island loom- LO SO SHING BEACH Map p132 Wan Ap Lei Pai ing in the background. To reach it follow fYung Shue Wan ferry the paths from Yung Shue Wan up to Tai 5 If you continue south from Hung Shing Yung Shue Peng old village and turn right once you Yeh Beach, the path climbs steeply until it Wan Luk hit the concrete roadway linking the power 4 Chau reaches a Chinese-style pavilion near the top of station with Pak Kok. the hill. From this vantage point, it becomes 9 obvious that the island is mostly hilly grass- OUTLYING ISLANDS land and large boulders, though more and OUTLYING ISLANDS Power Hung Shing 8 HUNG SHING YEH BEACH Map p132 Station Yeh Beach fYung Shue Wan ferry more trees are being planted. You will pass 19 Quarry Ha Mei & Cement About a 25-minute walk southeast from a second pavilion offering splendid views Wan Works the Yung Shue Wan ferry pier, Hung Shing out to sea; from here a path leads from the Yeh Beach is the most popular beach on Family Trail down to Lo So Shing Beach, the Lamma. But arrive early in the morning or most beautiful on Lamma. The beach is not 12 on a weekday and you’ll probably find it very big, but it has a nice cover of shade Tit Sha 13 Long Mo Tat deserted. The beach is protected by a shark trees at the back for a break from the sun. Lo So Wan Shing Ling Kok Beach 3 Shan (250m) LAMMA INFORMATION Deli Lamma Café...... 7 D2 Fountainhead Drinking Bar ...... 15 D1 HSBC ...... 1 D1 Han Lok Yuen ...... 8 B2 Island Society Bar...... 16 D1 Lamma ः䈤䡔㸠䭦ῖ೦䜦ᆊ Post Office 䛉ሔ ...... 2 D1 Kin Hing Tofu Dessert Tung SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (p131) O Wan ᓎ㟜䰓ယ䈚㜤㢅...... 9 B2 SIGHTS (pp131–4) Man Fung Seafood Hoi Nam Gift & Bicycle Shop Tin Hau Temple ໽ৢᒳ...... 3 B3 Restaurant ...... 10 D1 ߅ጤஂ䒞ᑫ...... 17 D2 Tin Hau Temple ໽ৢᒳ...... 4 A2 Pizza Milano...... 11 D2 Mt Stenhouse 12 SLEEPING (pp265–6) Wind Turbine 乼䒞 ...... 5 B2 Rainbow Seafood Restaurant...... C3 (353m) 18 ሟ ... D1؛䭦⏵۾ Sham Tai Yuen Restaurant...... (see 12) Bali Holiday Resort Wan EATING (pp198–9) The Bay...... 13 C3 Concerto Inn ⌾▸䒦 ...... 19 B2 Bookworm Café फዊ᳌㷆...... 6 D2 Jackson Property Agency DRINKING (p212) 20 Concerto Inn ⌾▸䒦...... (see 19) 䓱✠ഄ⫶ҷ⧚݀ৌ...... D1 Diesel's Bar...... 14 D2 Man Lai Wah Hotel ᭛呫㧃䜦ᑫ...... 21 D1 132 133 lonelyplanet.com who live there are from the same clan and have held court in the Tung Chung Valley to you cross the footbridge from the mainland lonelyplanet.com SNAKES ALIVE have the surname of Chow. A member of the north, which takes its name from a local to the island. The main post office (Map p139 ; Ngan this clan, Chow Yun Fat, the bullet-proof hero who gave up his life for the emperor. Kwong Wan Rd) is a short distance west of the Take care when bushwalking, particularly on Lamma star of many John Woo films, was born and Tung Chung is still worshipped by the Hakka and Lantau Islands. Poisonous snakes, the most footbridge crossing the Silver River in Mui raised in Tung O. people of Lantau, who believe he can predict Wo. common being the Bamboo Pit Viper, are a hazard, The beach at Tung O Wan is a secluded the future. although they will not attack unless surprised or Bicycles are available for hire ($10 per hour and unspoiled stretch of sand, punctuated Like Cheung Chau, Lantau was once a base and $25 per day including overnight) at two provoked. Go straight to a public hospital if bitten; by chunks of driftwood and other flotsam. for pirates and smugglers, and a trading post private doctors do not stock antivenom. Other fauna central locations a short distance from the for the British long before they showed any ferry pier in Mui Wo: Friendly Bicycle Shop (Map to be aware of in the New Territories are wild boars, interest in Hong Kong Island. which can be hugely dangerous if they choose to at- p139 ; %2984 2278; Ground fl, Shop 12, Mui Wo Centre, 1 LANTAU There are some interesting traditional vil- Ngan Wan Rd; h10am-8pm Wed-Mon), just opposite tack. Steer well clear if you spot one and back off Drinking & Nightlife p213 ; Eating p200 ; Sleeping p266 lages, such as Tai O on the west coast; several slowly if you’ve already gotten too close. Hong Kong’s largest island Lantau (Canton- Wellcome supermarket, and Bike Shop (Map p139 ; important religious sites, including the Po Lin %2984 2002; Ground fl, Shop B, Silver Centre, 10 Mui Wo Ferry ese for ‘broken head’; Map p136 ) is also known Monastery and the adjacent Tian Tan Bud- by the Chinese as Tai Yue Shan or ‘Big Island Pier Rd; h10.30am-9pm). They can also be hired MO TAT WAN Map p132 dha, the largest outdoor Buddha statue in the Mountain’ – a name that refers both to its from two bike kiosks (Map p139 ; %2984 7500, 2984 The clean and relatively uncrowded beach world; and some excellent beaches, including size and elevation. It is home to some of the Cheung Sha, the longest in Hong Kong. 8232) near the Silvermine Beach Hotel in Mui at Mo Tat Wan is a mere 20-minute walk region’s best and most remote beaches, wil- Wo and from several in Pui O village. east of Sok Kwu Wan along a coastal path. Until the Lantau Link, the combined road derness trails, monasteries and monuments, and rail transport connection between Kow- Mo Tat Wan is OK for swimming, but has no including the giant Tian Tan Buddha. Part of lifeguards. You can also reach here by kaido loon and Lantau, opened in 1997, the island NGONG PING Map p136 its appeal is its generous dimensions, ruggedly was accessible only by ferry. That’s still the g2 from Mui Wo, 21 from Tai O, 23 from Tung from Aberdeen, which continues on to Sok beautiful terrain and small population. Kwu Wan. most popular and enjoyable way to go, but Chung, or cable car It is home to about 100,000 people, yet at today you can reach the island from the rest Perched 500m up in the western hills of 144 sq km, it is almost twice the size of Hong of the territory by MTR, the Airport Express, Lantau is the Ngong Ping Plateau, a major SHAM WAN Map p132 Kong Island. Its highest point, Lantau Peak a fleet of buses and even by taxi. drawcard for Hong Kong day-trippers and Sham Wan (Deep Bay) is another beautiful (Fung Wong Shan; 934m), is almost double % foreign visitors alike, especially since 1993, & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS HSBC (Map p139 ; 2984 8271; Mui Wo Ferry Pier Rd) & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS bay to the southwest that can be reached the height of Victoria Peak. More than half has a branch in Mui Wo and there’s an HSBC when one of the world’s largest statues of from Tung O Wan by clambering over the of the surface area – 78.5 sq km, in fact – is ATM (Tai O Market St) in Tai O, which you’ll see as Buddha was unveiled here. hills. A trail on the left about 200m up the designated country park and there are several hill from Tung O leads south to a small and superb mountain trails, including the 70km sandy beach. Don’t come here from June Lantau Trail ( p226 ), which passes over both to October, when Hong Kong’s endangered Lantau Peak and Sunset Peak (869m). TRANSPORT – LANTAU green turtles nest (see boxed text, p133 ). Lantau is the last inhabited island west of Ferry Mui Wo: Major services from Central leave from pier 6 of the Outlying Islands ferry terminal. Ferries also depart Hong Kong Island; next stop is Macau and from Chi Ma Wan (also on Lantau), Cheung Chau and Peng Chau. TUNG O WAN Map p132 the Zhuhai SEZ. Lantau has many villages, Chi Ma Wan: Served by the inter-island ferry from Mui Wo, Cheung Chau and Peng Chau.

OUTLYING ISLANDS A detour to this small and secluded bay, but the main settlements dot the southern OUTLYING ISLANDS with a long stretch of sandy beach, while coast. From east to west they are: Mui Wo, Tai O: Reached by the service that operates from Tuen Mun in the New Territories via Sha Lo Wan and Tung Chung walking to Sok Kwu Wan from Yung Shue the ‘capital’ and the place where most of the (both Lantau). Wan or from Sok Kwu Wan itself, is highly ferries dock; Pui O and Tong Fuk along South Tung Chung: Reached by a regular service from Tuen Mun. It’s also served by the less-frequent service that comes recommended. Just before the Tin Hau Lantau Rd; and Tai O on the west coast. The from Tai O and Sha Lo Wan (both Lantau) before going on to Tuen Mun (or vice versa). temple at the entrance to Sok Kwu Wan, New Town of Tung Chung is on the north Bus Mui Wo: Served by bus 1 from Tai O (from the bus terminus at the end of Tai O Rd), bus 2 from Ngong Ping, bus follow the signposted path to the right coast and accessible from Mui Wo by buses 3M from Tung Chung (main bus terminus by the MTR station). southward, up and over the hill to the tiny that climb steep Tung Chung Rd. Discovery Ngong Ping: Other than the cable car the best way to get here is on bus 2 from Mui Wo (opposite the ferry pier) or village of Tung O. The walk takes about 30 Bay, a self-contained ‘bedroom community’ bus 23 from Tung Chung (main bus terminus by the MTR station). minutes over a rugged landscape, and the to the northeast, can be reached from Mui first half is a fairly strenuous climb up steps Wo by ferry. Not everyone on Lantau resides Tai O: Reached on bus 1 from Mui Wo (opposite the ferry pier), bus 11 from Tung Chung (main bus terminus by the and along a path. Don’t do this walk at here of their own accord; the island is home MTR station) or bus 21 from Ngong Ping. night unless it’s a full moon, as there are to three prisons. Tung Chung: Served by bus 3M from Mui Wo (opposite the ferry pier), bus 11 from Tai O (from the bus terminus at only a few street lights at the start in Sok Rock carvings discovered at Shek Pik on the end of Tai O Rd) and bus 23 from Ngong Ping. Kwu Wan. the southwestern coast of Lantau suggest All buses listed above run along some, or all of, South Lantau Rd, the junction with Tung Chung Rd being the point at If coming from Mo Tat Wan, take the trail that the island was inhabited as early as the which the bus will join or leave the route. immediately to the west of the pavilion Bronze Age, 3000 years ago, well before the above the beach and follow the signposted arrival of the Han Chinese; a stone circle un- Taxi Telephone the call service on %2984 1328 or 2984 1368. Sample fares to Ngong Ping and the Tian Tan Buddha path up the hill and through bamboo covered at Fan Lau may date from Neolithic from Mui Wo and Tung Chung/Tai O/Hong Kong International Airport are $125/45/145. groves and fields. It takes about 25 minutes times. The last Song-dynasty emperor passed MTR Tung Chung station is at the end of the line of the same name. through here in the 13th century while flee- to reach the sleepy village of Yung Shue Ha Airport Express Airport station at Chek Lap Kok. on the fringes of the bay. All of the Chinese ing the Mongol invaders. He is believed to 134 135 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS OUTLYING ISLANDS Lo 137

. and , a Fort ( p249 ) ( p201 )

Po Lam ( p17 ) to Ngong Lantau Tea Lantau Tea ( p226 ) Lantau Trail Map p136 Map as well as Tung Chung Chung as well as Tung , get up at the crack of dawn and . Po Lin Vegetarian Restaurant at Tei Tong Tsai and then south Tong Tsai at Tei ( p249 ) ( p141 )

, the only one in Hong Kong. The tea tea The Kong. , the only one in Hong A 2.5km concrete footpath to the left of A 2.5km concrete Another signposted trail leading east Another signposted It’s well worth for 260 steps climbing the If you’re hikingIf you’re the length or the first sev- oil paintings and ceramic plaques of the of the plaques ceramic and paintings oil busy times At teachings. and life Buddha’s with meal to those entry is given priority vegetarian tickets the monastery’s from restaurant, public holiday celebrated in late April or April in late celebrated public holiday time to visit, when a lively early May, is Visitors thousands make the pilgrimage. to observe decorum in some requested are It is forbidden to bring and behaviour. dress grounds. meat or alcohol into the to the the Buddha statue leads and Lantau Peak, and there are tea leaves leaves tea are and there and Lantau Peak, for sale. pick up the signposted trail at the hostel trail at the hostel pick up the signposted that runs southeast to the peak. Many climb- the summit for ers get up earlier to reach sunrise; take a torch and wear an extra layer chilly at the of clothes, as it can get pretty in summer. top in the early hours, even will take you along the from the hostel to northern slopes of Lantau Peak a closer look at the statue and surround- a closer look Buddha’s Birthday The ing views. Garden Hon Monastery Battery Hongkong Bank Foundation SG Davis HostelHongkong Bank Foundation SG LANTAU PEAK Moun- Wong Shan (Phoenix Known as Fung peak is this 934m-high tain) in Cantonese, Tai the second-highest in Hong Kong after The Mo Shan (957m) in the New Territories. stun- view from the summit is absolutely ning, and on a clear day it is possible to see Macau and Zhuhai, some 65km to the west. eral stages of the you’ll cross the peak. If you want to Ping, the easiest just climb up from Ngong Ping, and most comfortable way to make the climb is to spend the night at the SG Davis Hostel through a valley leading to Tung Chung, through a valley leading to Tung back to you can catch the MTR from where Kowloon or Hong Kong or bus 3M to Mui the charming walk – if you ignore This Wo. airport to the north – also takes you past bushes are pretty sparse and not worth sparse and not pretty a bushes are is on the way to the detour, but the garden Monastery Monkey’s containing Ngong Ping Ngong Ping Ngong Ping 360 Ngong Ping is a cable car , a seated rep- , a seated and the 10am-6pm) h 10am-6pm) 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6.30pm just west of the monastery just west of the monastery h ( h

2985 5248; is a huge Buddhist monastery monastery Buddhist is a huge , both of which cost $35/18/28 . A variety of packages combine % (Precious Lotus; www.plm.org.hk/blcs/en; www.plm.org.hk/blcs/en; Lotus; (Precious ( Walking with Buddha 9am-6pm) The podium is composed of separate podium is composed of separate The The ride is well worthThe taking, offering sits the the monastery On a hill above Po Lin

complex. It includes several themed attrac- themed complex. It includes several tions: resentation of Lord Gautama some 23m of Lord Gautama resentation high (or 26.4m with the lotus), or just under are 34m if you include the podium. There – notably bigger Buddha statues elsewhere in the 71m-high Grand Buddha at Leshan – but apparently China’s Sichuan province or made of outdoors not seated, these are It weighs 202 tonnes, by the way. bronze. bell within the Buddha is con- large The and rings 108 times trolled by computer during the day to symbolise escape from of the ‘108 troubles what Buddhism terms mankind’. On levels. different chambers on three six statues of Bodhisat- are the first level tvas, each of which weighs around two is a small On the second level tonnes. museum (www.np360.com.hk; adult/concession one way $58/28/45, adult/concession one way (www.np360.com.hk; $88/45/68; return certainSat & Sun, 9am-6.30pm holidays) of Tung with the centre linking Ngong Ping the north).Chung (downhill and to at- The a 2007 accident, buttraction after was shut by the time you read reopened should have and upgrades. reviews this following safety the airportspectacular as it views over transports you from the high-rise apart- rural Chung to the more ments of Tung station is lower landscapes of Lantau. The station; Chung MTR Tung the just opposite new 1.5-hectare the upper station is at the Village Ngong Ping for adults/concession, and the the cable-car rides with entrance tickets to journey takes25 20 to The the attractions. each glassed-in gondola carries 17 minutes, up to can move passengers and the system 3500 people per hour. Buddha Tan Tian Tale Theatre Tale House Tea h built was originally complex that and temple as as much a fairground Today it is in 1924. attracting many visitors. retreat, a religious arrivalbuildings you’ll see on Most of the tucked the older, simpler ones new, with are 5.7km them. The away behind

Chau

(35km)

Kwu

Peninsula Wan To Macau To

Shek

Tung Fan Lau Fan

Lau

Beach Fan

Fan Lau Fan Lau

Fan

Chau

a r

Cheung

Hill

C a

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o t C Wan

Wan n

t a

Tung a

Mui Wan Mui u

a Sha Village Sha Tung

r L

22 22

L 1 1

Tong Fuk Tong

a h

Mong Beach

Lower Cheung Lower Peninsula

Cheung Sha Cheung

Ma Wan Ma West Lamma Channel Lamma West a 10 10

Tong Fuk Tong

Beach

a i

l Upper

n Chi

Cheung Sha Cheung 15 Reservoir

Shek Pik Shek n

O Wan O

Pui 23 23

25 25

18 18

(934m)

Pui O Pui

(Fung Wong Shan) Wong (Fung 6 6

Lantau Peak Lantau

u 19 19

Shan

t D3 D3 18 ...... Restaurant Stoep

Monastery

Keung

Tai O Tai

17 17 d

L Village

Chau

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...... (see 9) 9) ...... (see Ling Yan Ling a ¸´ T†¸†¿ T†¸†¿ ¸´ R

21 21

Ping

Hei Ling Hei

t Lantau South Lantau d

4 4 a

Po Lin Vegetarian Restaurant Restaurant Vegetarian Lin Po

Ngong R

Nam Shan Nam

R Monastery

a ung ung

Kung To Kung Yin Hing Yin

Garden Garden Ooh La La! ...... (see 25) 25) ...... (see La! La Ooh

h Terminus

(869m) W

9 9

8 8

Chau

Tea Tea Upper Upper

Peak Luk Tei Tong Tei Luk

Honeymoon Dessert Honeymoon C3 C3 17 ...... M˘• g

m Wan

Lantau Lantau

Cable Car Car Cable

Sunset a

u E2 E2 16 Hemingway's......

Tsui (10km) Tsui

Wat

5 5

7 7

T h

Mui Wo Wo Mui

S Ngong Ping Ping Ngong

Tsim Sha Tsim Sham

C3 C3 15 Gallery......

(8.5km);

Country Park Country

Flying Pan...... (see 14) 14) Pan...... (see Flying Hang Hang

To Central To

North

Lung Lung

Discovery Bay Plaza Bay Discovery E2 E2 14 ...... ‡V

Lantau 13 13

Wong Wong

11 11

EATING (pp200–1) (pp200–1) EATING (751m) Hang

Shan Tai Shui Tai

Chau

2 2

Nei Lak Nei

Chau

Kau Yi Kau

20 20 l

C2 C2 13 ...... Tung Chung Fort Fort Chung Tung i – ¿–⁄ |

Tung Chung Chung Tung a

Peng

12 12 Sha Lo Wan Lo Sha

T Wan

Tung Chung Battery Battery Chung Tung C2 C2 12 ......

Long |¿¯ ¤ ¤ |¿¯

Nim Shue Nim

Reservoir

Ngau Kwu Ngau ta Terminus

14 14

Trappist Monastery Monastery Trappist E2 E2 11 ...... n æ•” æ•”

Lower a

Discovery Bay Discovery

Cable Car Cable ...... (see 9) 9) ...... (see Tian Tan Buddha Buddha Tan Tian ·• • ﬂ· Pak Mong Pak

16 16

Kok

N Treasure Island on Lantau...... Lantau...... on Island Treasure D3 D3 25

Shek Pik Prison Prison Pik Shek C4 C4 10 ......

˚ﬂ– –O“z –O“z ˚ﬂ–

(11km)

Chek Lap Chek

To Central To

C1 C1 24 ...... Regal Airport Hotel Hotel Airport Regal

‚»” C ˘ Œ Œ ˘ C ‚»”

Wan n

C3 C3 9 ...... Po Lin Monastery Monastery Lin Po

¸´ ¸´

t u

Tai Pak Tai

D3 D3 23 ...... Long Coast Seasports Seasports Coast Long C H ¸‚ Ø L ¶ ¶ L Ø ¸‚

Po Lam Monastery Monastery Lam Po C3 C3 8 ...... `¸´ `¸´

w Airport

n y

D4 D4 22 ...... International æR ˝ß | ‡´ˆ Æ Æ ‡´ˆ | ˝ß æR

Airport Airport C3 C3 7 360.. Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car Car Cable 360 Ping Ngong

”˘ ” ” ”˘

Hong Kong Hong

3 3 T

Bay Tunnel Bay

Jockey Club Mong Tung Wan Hostel Hostel Wan Tung Mong Club Jockey

B3 B3 6 ...... Lung Tsai Ng Garden Garden Ng Tsai Lung

Resort Resort R

—˛ @ @ —˛

(12km)

Discovery

24 24

Disneyland Disneyland

C3 C3 21 ......

R Sªy——·¨ ˘»ø‰ · S¸„´ˆ Æ Æ S¸„´ˆ · ˘»ø‰ Sªy——·¨ R

To Central To

n C3 C3 5 ...... Lo Hon Monastery Monastery Hon Lo

`_ h¸´ h¸´ `_

Hongkong Bank Foundation SG Davis Hostel Hostel Davis SG Foundation Bank Hongkong

Kwan Tai Temple Temple Tai Kwan B3 B3 4 ......

ŒP R R ŒP i -Expo -Expo

SLEEPING SLEEPING E (pp266–8) (pp266–8)

r AsiaWorld AsiaWorld

s Rail Line Rail F1 F1 3 ......

‘ ‘m

e Resort

Brother

Hong Kong Disneyland Disneyland Kong Hong

E2 E2 20 ...... Discovery Bay Golf Club Club Golf Bay Discovery Disneyland ˙ ‡˙

Sunny Bay Bay Sunny

West

C2 C2 2 ...... Hau Wong Temple Temple Wong Hau ”˝ıR ”˝ıR

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (p224) (p224) ACTIVITIES & SPORTS Brother

C4 C4 1 ...... ~ ·˚¿ r·œ˚ﬂ¿ ª~˘ East

Wan KsCu ...... Club JK's D3 D3 19 Bronze Age Rock Carvings Carvings Rock Age Bronze

(6.5km) Ma

Yi DRINKING DRINKING

(p213) (p213) SIGHTS SIGHTS (pp134–42) (pp134–42)

Mun Bridge Bridge Mun To Tuen Mun Tuen To

Tsing

(25km) Kap Shui Shui Kap

To Shekou To

LANTAU LANTAU 0 2.0 miles miles 2.0 0 0 5 km km 5 0 136 lonelyplanet.com NEIGHBOURHOODS & ISLANDS OUTLYING ISLANDS lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Today Tai O is in decline, except perhaps a decent restaurant right on Pui O Beach and a popular roadside barbecue restaurant as a tourist destination. A few of the salt- called Ooh La La! ( p201 ). called Gallery (p201 ) . To the northwest is the pans still exist, but most have been filled Cheung Sha (Long Sand), at over 3km not-so-scenic sprawl of Ma Po Ping Prison. in to build high-rise housing. Older people Hong Kong’s longest beach, is divided into West of Tong Fuk, South Lantau Rd be- still make their living from duck farming, ‘upper’ and ‘lower’ sections; a trail over a gins to climb the hills inland before cross- HONG KONG FOR CHILDREN, fishing, making the village’s celebrated hillock links the two. Upper Cheung Sha, with ing an enormous dam holding back the FROM A TO Z shrimp paste and processing salt fish, occasional good surf, is the prettier and Shek Pik Reservoir, completed in 1963, which which you’ll see (and smell) everywhere. It longer stretch and boasts a modern com- provides Lantau, Cheung Chau and parts As well as Hong Kong’s two theme parks, Ocean Park remains a popular place for locals to buy plex with changing rooms, toilets, showers of Hong Kong Island with drinking water. ( p82 ) and Disneyland ( p141 ), Hong Kong offers plenty seafood – both fresh and dried. and a snack bar. Lower Cheung Sha village has a Just below the dam is the granddaddy of of amazement for kids as well as adults: Tai O is built partly on Lantau and partly beachfront restaurant, Stoep Restaurant ( p201 ). Lantau’s trio of jails, Shek Pik Prison. Below the Avenue of the Stars evening lightshow ( p95 ) on a tiny island about 15m from the shore. Long Coast Seasports (%2980 3222; www.longcoast dam to the south but before the prison is Beaches ( p223 ) Until the mid-1990s the only way to cross .hk; 29 Lower Cheung Sha Village; h10am-7pm) is a another Bronze-Age rock carving unusual in that Cityplaza’s Ice Palace skating rink ( p229 ) was via a rope-tow ferry pulled by elderly water-sports centre offering windsurfing, it is so far from the coastline. Hong Kong Heritage Museum ( p125 ) Hakka women. That and the large number sea kayaking and wakeboarding. Prices The trail along the water-catchment area Junk and sampan trips in Aberdeen Harbour ( p83 ) of sampans in the small harbour earned vary widely but basic windsurfing costs east of Shek Pik Reservoir, with picnic tables Kowloon Park ( p91 ) Tai O the nickname ‘the Venice of Hong from $90/240/360 for an hour/half-day/day, and barbecue pits, offers some of the easiest Noonday Gun ( p73 ) Kong’. Though the narrow iron Tai Chung while a single kayak rents for $60/180 for and most peaceful walking on Lantau. From Peak Tram ( p283 ) footbridge now spans the canal, the rope- an hour/half-day. Beach umbrellas are here you can also pick up the switchback Space Museum & Theatre ( p91 ) tow ferry is resurrected on some weekends also available from $50 a day. Some claim trail to Dog’s Tooth Peak (539m), from where Star Ferry ( p273 ) and holidays: drop $1 in the box as you because of the Ventura effect on the wind another trail heads north to Lantau Peak. Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade ( p95 ) disembark. There are also brief river boat from Tung Chung this is the best windsurf- Zoological & Botanical Gardens ( p58 ) tours (%9629 4581, 9645 6652; per 15/25min $10/20) ing in Hong Kong, especially from Novem- CHI MA WAN Map p136 departing from the footbridge. ber to March. Long Coast also offers basic fInter-island service from Mui Wo and Cheung LUNG TSAI NG GARDEN Map p136 Some of the traditional-style village accommodation ( p267 ). Chau houses still stand in the centre. A fire in & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS g1 from Mui Wo, 11 from Tung Chung, 21 from The beach at Tong Fuk, the next village Chi Ma Wan, the large peninsula south of & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Ngong Ping 2000 destroyed many of Tai O’s famed stilt over from Cheung Sha, is not as nice, but Mui Wo that can be reached via the inter- This magical garden southwest of Ngong houses on the waterfront, but when the gov- the village has holiday flats, several shops island ferry, is a relatively remote part of Ping, with a lotus pond crossed by a rick- ernment tried to raze the rest and relocate residents elsewhere, the move was strongly 0 300 m ety zigzag bridge, was built by a wealthy MUI WO (LANTAU) 0 0.2 miles merchant in the 1930s in a small valley opposed. The few houses that escaped near where the village of Lung Tsai once the fire remain. There are also a number of shanties, their corrugated-iron walls held in 5 stood. The site is rather derelict, but at- To Silvermine 8 EATING (p200) place by rope, and houseboats that haven’t Cave, Waterfall Bahçe...... 6 C3 mospheric nonetheless, and the gardens & Garden (3km) 15 La Pizzeria...... 7 C3 d set sail for years – they’d capsize immedi- Wang R Silvermine Beach Hotel ªyV‡˘Œ ..... (see 16) are in excellent condition. You can reach u To Tong Ta OUTLYING ISLANDS OUTLYING ISLANDS ately if they tried. n Trappist here via a water catchment path and trail er a v W Monastery DRINKING (p213) i g (2.3km) 3 R The stilt houses and the local Kwan Tai temple n China Beach Club ...... 8 C1 from the Tai O Rd, a continuation of South u g Barbecue Pits T n China Bear ...... 9 D3

dedicated to the god of war are on Kat Hing o & Picnic Tables Silvermine

Lantau Rd just west of Keung Shan. Alight T

Bay Beach

Butterfly Hill g St. To reach them, cross the bridge from the (67m) n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (p135) from the bus after the Kwun Yam temple a Bike Shop ˛Œ ...... 10 C3 mainland to the island, walk up Tai O Mar- W on Tai O Rd, which is about 2km past the Friendly Bicycle Shop ˇ ...... 11 C3 turn-off for the Tian Tan Buddha. You’ll see ket St and go right at the Fook Moon Lam Rental Bicycles ˛...... 12 B2 a country park sign and the start of the restaurant. There are a couple of other temples Rental Bicycles ˛...... 13 B2 water catchment. here, including an 18th-century one erected 12 SLEEPING (pp266–8) in honour of Hung Shing, patron of fisher- 16 Mui Wo Accommodation Kiosks...... 14 D3 Mui Wo Inn ˆ•‚C ˘ Œ ...... 15 C1 Silvermine folk; it’s on Shek Tsai Po St, about 600m west Rd ttee 13 Bay Silvermine Beach Hotel ªyV‡˘Œ ...... 16 B2 TAI O Map p136 mmi l Co of the Fook Lam Moon restaurant. ura g1 from Mui Wo, 11 from Tung Chung, 21 from o R TRANSPORT W (pp269–86) l Ngong Ping u Bus Terminal & Taxi Rank SOUTH LANTAU RD Map p136 M ˝˚ ¿¿ … ˜˚ ¿ ...... 17 C3 A century ago this mostly Tanka village on Ferries to Discovery Bay er the west coast of Lantau was an important g1 from Mui Wo & Tai O, 2 from Ngong Ping, 3 Riv 2 ˝ø ‡¶ ...... 18 D3 er Silv d Mui Wo R To Peng Chau trading and fishing port, exporting salt and from Tung Chung an Clinic W Ngan Wan (5.5km) ong To Tsim Sha fish to China. As recently as the 1980s it Just under 5km southwest of Mui Wo, Pui O Kw Estate an Tsui (15km); Ng 4 1 14 Central (15.5km) traded in IIs (illegal immigrants) brought is the first of several coastal villages along Ferry 10 from China under cover of darkness by South Lantau Rd. Pui O has a decent beach, 17

M 7 To Chi Ma u ‘snakeheads’ (smugglers in human cargo) but as it’s the closest one to Mui Wo it can 18 Wan (5km); SIGHTS (pp140–1) d l

W R 11 Cheung Chau ”ß ß ‰‚ ˙ Butterfly Hill Watchtower ...... 3 A1 o in long narrow boats, sending back contra- get very crowded. The village has several INFORMATION South u 6 (8km) L ta d an F n Wan R HSBC...... 1 C3 Luk Tei Tong Watchtower ´„ `‚ ˙...... 4 A3 er Nga 9 band such as refrigerators, radios and TVs restaurants, holiday flats galore and, in r Post Office ]...... 2 B3 Man Mo Temple ˛˜˛ R ...... 5 A1 y to the mainland. season, stalls renting bicycles. There’s also Pier Rd 138 139 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Lantau and an excellent area for hiking; just 19th century. All of the monks here now Watchtower further north. They were built in ringed by high-rises and more luxurious be sure to get a map ( p295 ) as the trails are are local Chinese. the late 19th century as safe houses and as condominiums clinging to the headland to not always clearly defined or well marked. Trappist monks take a vow of absolute coastal defences against pirates. the north – but there is no pressing need The Chi Ma Wan ferry pier is on the silence, and there are signs reminding to visit except to ogle at residents in their northeast coast; the large complex just visitors to keep radios and music players HONG KONG DISNEYLAND Map p136 converted golf carts that cost $200,000 a south of the pier is not a hostel but the Chi turned off and to speak in low tones. Give %1-830 830; www.hongkongdisneyland pop. There is a handful of decent restau- Ma Wan Correctional Institution. There’s a decent the guys a break; they’re up at 3.15am and .com; adult/senior over 65/child 3-11 Mon-Fri rants in Discovery Bay Plaza, just up from the beach to the south at Tai Long Wan. There’s in bed by 8pm. $295/170/210, Sat, Sun & holidays $350/250/200; ferry pier and the central plaza, and the 27- budget accommodation at the Jockey Club You can reach the monastery on foot by h10am-9pm Apr-Oct, 10am-7pm Nov-Mar; MTR hole Discovery Bay Golf Club (see p224 ) perched Mong Tung Wan Hostel ( p267 ) on the peninsula’s following a well-marked coastal trail from Disney Bay Resort in the hills to the southwest. southwestern coast. the northern end of Tung Wan Tau Rd in One of America’s most famous cultural Until recently Discovery Bay existed in Mui Wo, but it’s much easier to get here by exports finally landed in Hong Kong in splendid isolation, linked only to the out- kaido from Peng Chau, Lantau’s little island FAN LAU Map p136 late 2005 and has been struggling ever side by ferries from Central, Lantau and neighbour to the west. For details, see p274 . Fan Lau (Divided Flow), a small peninsula since to attract the hoped-for number of Peng Chau and all but inaccessible from on the southwestern tip of Lantau, has a visitors. The reason is simple: compared to the rest of Lantau even on foot. Now buses couple of good beaches and the remains MUI WO Map p139 its US and European sister parks this tiny make the run to and from Tung Chung and of Fan Lau Fort, built in 1729 to protect the fLantau 100-odd hectare park, divided into four the airport at Chek Lap Kok via the Discovery channel between Lantau and the Pearl Mui Wo (Plum Nest), Lantau’s main set- main areas – Main Street USA, Fantasy- Bay Tunnel and the North Lantau Hwy. A trail River estuary from pirates. It remained in tlement ‘capital’, is on Silvermine Bay, so land, Adventureland and Tomorrowland – leading from the golf course will take you operation until the end of the 19th century named for the silver mines that were once offers a decidedly flat experience. Wel- down to Silvermine Bay and the rest of and was restored in 1985. The sea views worked to the northwest along the Silver come to Anti-climaxland. Or perhaps that Lantau in a couple of hours. from here are sterling. River. In fact, many foreign residents refer should be Lack-lustreland or maybe To the southeast of the fort is an ancient to Mui Wo as Silvermine Bay. Merchandisingland. TUNG CHUNG Map p136 stone circle. The origins and age of the circle About a third of Lantau’s population There’s a single real adrenaline-inducing Tung Chung; g3M from Mui Wo, 11 from Tai O, 23 are uncertain, but it probably dates from lives in the township of Mui Wo and its roller coaster ride (Space Mountain) and from Ngong Ping & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS the Neolithic or early Bronze Age and may surrounding hamlets. There are several the rest of the park is made up of lacklustre In recent years change has come to Tung & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS decent places to stay here and, though the have been used in rituals. amusements rammed with Disney shops Chung, on Lantau’s northern coast, at a options for eating and drinking are few, The only way to reach Fan Lau is on foot. (selling toys way beyond the budgets of pace that can only happen in Hong Kong. they are fine. To get here from Tai O, walk south from the most mainland visitors, the park’s target This previously all-but-inaccessible farm- Silvermine Bay Beach, to the northwest of bus station for 250m and pick up stage No market) and fast-food outlets at every turn. ing region, with the small village of Tung Mui Wo, has been cleaned up and rebuilt in 7 of the coastal Lantau Trail ( p226 ), a distance The full complement of Disney charac- Chung at its centre, has seen Chek Lap Kok, recent years and is now an attractive place, of about 8km. The trail then carries on to ters patrolling the park and the odd show the mountain across Tung Chung Bay, flat- with scenic views and opportunities for the northeast and Shek Pik for another re-creating great Disney moments from tened to build Hong Kong’s international 12km, where you can catch bus 1 back to walking in the hills above. There’s a com- films such as Pirates of the Caribbean will plex with toilets, showers and changing airport and a New Town served by the MTR

OUTLYING ISLANDS Mui Wo. doubtless please very young visitors, but OUTLYING ISLANDS rooms open from April to October. rise up. take teenagers along and you may face a As part of the territory’s plans to solve If you have the time, consider hiking out mutiny of your own making. The resurgent TRAPPIST MONASTERY Map p136 to Silvermine Waterfall, the main feature of a the housing crisis, Tung Chung New Town Ocean Park ( p82 ) offers vastly more variety, %2987 6292; Tai Shui Hang; fkaido from Peng picturesque garden near the old Silvermine has now become a 760-hectare residential thrills and amusement for all ages. Chau Cave northwest of the town. The waterfall is estate. The targeted population of Tung Disneyland is linked by rail with the MTR Northeast of Mui Wo and south of Dis- quite a spectacle during the rainy season, Chung and the neighbouring New Town of at the new futuristic Sunny Bay station covery Bay at Tai Shui Hang is the Roman when it swells and gushes; the cave was Tai Ho is an astonishing 330,000 by 2012. on the Tung Chung line; passengers just Catholic Lady of Joy Abbey – better known mined for silver in the latter half of the 19th These developments and transport cross the platform to board the dedicated as the Trappist Monastery. The monastery century but has now been sealed off. improvements have put an end to Tung train for Disneyland Resort station and is known throughout Hong Kong for its En route to the waterfall you’ll pass the Chung as a peaceful and secluded spot. the theme park. Journey times from Cen- cream-rich milk, sold in half-pint bottles local Man Mo temple, originally built during But efforts have been made to protect Tung tral/Kowloon/Tsing Yi stations are 10/21/24 everywhere, but, alas, the cows have been the reign of Emperor Shen Zong (1573– Chung Old Village. Buildings may rise no higher moved to the New Territories and Trappist 1620) of the Ming dynasty and renovated a minutes. than three storeys and each floor can be no Dairy Milk now comes from over the border couple of times in the last century. larger than 70 sq metres. in China. You can reach the temple, cave and DISCOVERY BAY Map p136 Annals record a settlement at Tung The Trappists, a branch of the Cister- waterfall by walking west along Mui Wo fDiscovery Bay Chung as early as the Ming dynasty. There cian order, were founded by a converted Rural Committee Rd and then following the Lying on the northeastern coast of Lantau, are several Buddhist establishments in the courtier at La Trappe in France in 1662 and marked path north. The 3km walk should what locals have dubbed ‘DB’ is very much upper reaches of the valley, but the main gained a reputation as being one of the take about an hour. a world of its own, a dormitory community attraction here is Tung Chung Fort (Tung Chung most austere religious communities in the There are several old granite watch- for professionals who commute to Central. Rd; admission free; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon), which Roman Catholic Church. The Lantau con- towers in the area, including Luk Tei Tong Discovery Bay (Yue Ging Wan in Canton- dates back to 1832, when Chinese troops gregation was established at Beijing in the Watchtower on the Silver River and Butterfly Hill ese) has a fine stretch of sandy beach were garrisoned on Lantau. The Japanese 140 141 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com briefly occupied the fort during WWII. 0 500 m CHEUNG CHAU 0 0.3 miles Measuring 70m by 80m and enclosed by TRANSPORT – CHEUNG CHAU granite-block walls, it retains six of its muz- To Central (15km); zle-loading cannons pointing out to sea. Ferry Services from Central leave from pier 5 of the Tsim Sha Tsui (17km) About 1km to the north are the ruins of Outlying Islands ferry terminal. Ferries can also be Tung Chung Battery, which is a much smaller taken from Mui Wo and Chi Ma Wan on Lantau and fort built in 1817. All that remains is an from Peng Chau. Additionally, regular kaidos operate Radar L-shaped wall facing the sea, with a gun between Cheung Chau village (Sampan pier) and Sai Station emplacement in the corner. The ruins were Wan in the south of the island. P only discovered in 1980, having been hid- g ak To Chi Ma Wan (4km); heun C R Mui Wo (8km); d

Coral den for about a century by scrub. Peng Chau (13.5km)

Archaeological evidence, including a 3000- Tai d Beach R

Facing Tung Chung Bay to the southwest Kwai i year-old rock carving uncovered just below the Wan a w in the village of Sha Tsui Tau is double- K

g Warwick Hotel, suggests that Cheung Chau, n u Service roofed Hau Wong Temple, founded at the end e h Reservoir like Lamma and Lantau, was inhabited at least C of the Song dynasty. The temple contains a as early as the Neolithic period. The island had bell dating from 1765 and inscribed by the Sewage a thriving fishing community at the time, and Treatment Qing-dynasty emperor Qian Long. Works the early inhabitants – Hakka and Cantonese 10 Playing settlers – supplemented their income with Fields Tung Pak She Praya Rd Wan smuggling and piracy. 11 CHEUNG CHAU Tung Wan Drinking & Nightlife p212 ; Eating p199 ; Sleeping p266 Cheung Chau boasts several interesting tem- Boatyards Beach ples, the most important being Pak Tai Temple, Wave Once a refuge for pirates, Cheung Chau (Long Reflector Island; Map p143) supports a population of some which hosts the annual Bun Festival, the red- Cheung Kwun Yam 30,000 people on less than 2½ sq km of ter- letter day on Cheung Chau (see boxed text, Chau Wan Wan ritory. Its modest dimensions and winding below ). The island has a few worthwhile beaches, and there are some relatively easy walks, includ- pathways past temples, beaches, fishing boats Cheung Chau Cheung & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS Typhoon Chau & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS ing the one described on p145 . When Canton Village and mini chandleries make a delightful desti- Shelter an Y d n d (present-day Guangzhou) and Macau opened u R nation for a day trip. w n R K a 8 i 7 W a up to the West in the 16th century, Cheung M F Fishing and aquaculture are important i ng D Fa Peng Chau was a perfect spot from which to prey o

n Knoll

industries for a large number of the island’s F

on passing ships. The infamous and powerful o Wave Rd 14 P inhabitants, some of whom still live on junks n s a e Reflector i W c d o n Sa g Rd 18th-century pirate Cheung Po Tsai is said to R and sampans anchored in the harbour. Bring k 9 R Pea d have had his base here, and you can still visit Kwai Yuen your camera for some of the best shots of Morning Monastery the cave where he supposedly stashed his booty Beach traditional maritime life on the South China 13 Sai T Wan s at the southwestern tip of the island. a n coast.

T t 5 Nam

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6 e W Tam n Yee

OUTLYING ISLANDS Rd Wan OUTLYING ISLANDS

R a Pavilion d CARE e Village P Po Crematorium CHEUNG CHAU’S BUN FESTIVAL Yuen Wan Cheung Chau The annual Bun Festival (Tàai-pìng chìng jiu in Cantonese; www.cheungchau.org), which honours the god Pak Tai and Cemetery Italian is unique to the island, takes place over eight days in late April or early May, traditionally starting on the sixth day of Pak Tso Beach the fourth moon. It is a Taoist festival, and there are four days of religious observances. Wan The festival is renowned for its bun towers, bamboo scaffolding up to 20m high that are covered with sacred rolls. If you visit Cheung Chau a week or so before the festival, you’ll see the towers being built in front of Pak Tai Temple. In the past, hundreds of people would scramble up the towers at midnight on the designated day to grab one of the buns for good luck. The higher the bun, the greater the luck, so everyone tried to reach the top. In 1978 a tower collapsed under the weight of the climbers, injuring two-dozen people. Now everyone must remain on terra firma and the buns are handed out. Sacred Banyan Sunday, the third day of the festival, features a procession of floats, stilt walkers, and people dressed as characters Tree from Chinese legends and opera. Most interesting are the colourfully dressed ‘floating children’, who are carried through the streets on long poles, cleverly wired to metal supports hidden under their clothing. The supports include footrests and a padded seat. Offerings are made to the spirits of all the fish and livestock killed and consumed over the previous year. A priest 4 reads out a decree calling on the villagers to abstain from killing any animals during the four-day festival, and no meat is consumed.

142 143 lonelyplanet.com the hilly climb. Once at the cemetery it’s patroness of seafarers. Pak She Tin Hau Temple lonelyplanet.com CHEUNG CHAU worth dropping down to Pak Tso Wan (Italian lies 100m northwest of the Pak Tai Temple. INFORMATION Pak She Tin Hau Temple DRINKING (pp212–13) Beach), a sandy, isolated spot that is good Nam Tan Wan Tin Hau temple is just north of HSBC ...... 1 C6 ࣫⼒໽ৢᒳ...... 10 B2 Morocco's Bar & Restaurant...... 19 C6 for swimming. At this point Peak Rd West Morning Beach; Tai Shek Hau Tin Hau temple is HSBC ATM ...... 2 C5 11 Patio Café ...... (see 21) ः䈤䡔㸠ᦤℒ″ Pak Tai Temple ࣫Ᏹᒳ...... B3 becomes Tsan Tuen Rd, which continues to the west on Sai Wan Rd. Sai Wan Tin Hau Post Office 䛉ሔ ...... 3 C6 Rock Carving 䭋⌆⷇ࠏ...... 12 D6 (pp222–31) Sai Wan Tin Hau Temple SPORTS & ACTIVITIES north to Sai Wan. temple is west of Sai Wan (Western Bay), 20 SIGHTS (pp142–5) 㽓☷໽ৢᒳ...... 13 A4 Bicycle Rentals...... C5 on the southwestern tip of the island. You Cheung Chau Market 䭋⌆㸫Ꮦ...... 4 C6 Tai Shek Hau Tin Hau Temple Cheung Chau Windsurfing Water Sports Centre can walk there or catch a kaido from the Cheung Chau Meteorological ໻⷇ষ໽ৢᒳ...... 14 B4 CHEUNG CHAU TYPHOON SHELTER 5 ....21 D6 Station...... B4 Tou Tei Shrine ೳഄᒳ ...... 15 C5 䭋⌆⒥⌾乼Ꮪ∈Ϟ⌏ࢩЁᖗ Map p143 cargo pier. Cheung Po Tsai Cave ᔉֱҨ⋲ ...... 6 A4 SLEEPING (p266) fCheung Chau Kwan Kung Pavilion 䮰݀ᖴ㕽ҁ ....7 C3 EATING (pp199–200) Cheung Chau Accommodation Kwun Yam Temple 㾔䷇ᒳ...... 8 C3 East Lake ᵅ␪...... 16 C6 A great way to see the harbour and soak up Kiosks...... 22 C6 ISLAND LIFE Nam Tam Wan Tin Hau Temple Hometown Teahouse ᬙ䛝㤊ᇂ...17 C6 the fishing village atmosphere is to charter 9 Cheung Chau B&B ...... 23 C6 फ∍☷໽ৢᒳ ...... C4 New Baccarat ᮄ䞥␪⍋冂䜦ᆊ.....18 C5 Warwick Hotel 㧃࿕䜦ᑫ...... 24 D6 a sampan for half an hour (expect to pay $50 Walking Tour to $80 depending on the day, the season 1 Cheung Chau Ferry Pier Head north and the demand). Most sampans congre- along Praya St, where a row of mostly seafood Cheung Chau is a bone-shaped island 10km beach lies at the end of Tung Wan Rd, due gate around the cargo pier, but virtually restaurants face the harbour. Praya St becomes southwest of Hong Kong Island and just off the east of the ferry pier. The best part of Tung any small boat you see in the harbour can Pak She Praya Rd after the turn-off for Kwok Chi Ma Wan peninsula on southeastern Lantau. Wan is the far southern end, which is a be hired as a water taxi. Just wave and two Man Rd, and from here you can look out at Cheung Chau village, where the ferry docks, is great area for windsurfing. Just south of or three will come forward. Be sure to agree the many junks and sampans moored in the the only real settlement on the island. Tung Wan Beach, Kwun Yam Wan Beach is on the fare first. harbour and typhoon shelter. There is an HSBC (%2981 1127; Lot 1116, Praya known to English speakers as Afternoon Beach and is a great spot for windsurfing. South) branch southeast of the cargo pier, and CHEUNG CHAU VILLAGE Map p143 2 Pak Tai Temple At Pak She Fourth Lane, Windsurfing has always been an ex- an ATM (19A Pak She Praya Rd) north of the ferry pier. fCheung Chau turn right and shortly you’ll see the colourful tremely popular pastime on Cheung Chau, The post office (2A Tai Hing Tai St) is in the market The island’s main settlement lies along temple, built in 1783. The Pak She Tin Hau Temple and Hong Kong’s only Olympic gold-medal complex. The market (h8.30am-5pm) is a hive the narrow strip of land connecting the is behind, about 100m to the northwest. The

& ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS winner to date, Lee Lai-shan, who took the & ISLANDS NEIGHBOURHOODS of activity, with meat and fish being sold on headlands to the north and the south. The temple is within the grounds of the Chung top prize in windsurfing at the 1996 Olym- the ground floor and a variety of other goods waterfront is a bustling place and the maze Shak-Hei home for the aged. pics in Atlanta, grew up here. At the north- upstairs. There is no transport on Cheung of streets and alleyways that make up the ern end of Afternoon Beach, the Cheung Chau Chau, but you can rent bicycles from a kiosk village are filled with old Chinese-style Windsurfing Water Sports Centre (%2981 8316; www 3 Pak San St & San Hing St You’ll pass (%2981 0227) at the northern end of Praya St houses and tumble-down shops selling traditional Chinese houses and several shops selling .ccwindc.com.hk; 1 Hak Pai Rd; h10am-7pm) rents for $10/30 per hour/day and new two-seat everything from plastic buckets to hell traditional Chinese medicine, incense and paper hell sailboards for between $90 and $150 per pedal bikes for $30/90. money. The streets close to the waterfront money to be burned in memory of the dead. hour, as well as single/double kayaks for are pungent with the smell of incense and Further south, and on the left at the intersec- $60/100. There are also windsurfing courses PAK TAI TEMPLE Map p143 fish hung out to dry in the sun. tion of Pak She St and Kwok Man Rd, is a available for $700 per day. The best time

OUTLYING ISLANDS small Tou Tei shrine, dedicated to the overworked OUTLYING ISLANDS %2981 0663; Pak She Fourth Lane; h7am-5pm; for windsurfing here is between October earth god. fCheung Chau and December. CHEUNG PO TSAI CAVE Map p143 This colourful and recently renovated temple At the southeastern end of Afternoon fCheung Chau from 1783 is the oldest on the island and is Beach a footpath leads uphill past a Kwun This cave, on the southwestern peninsula of 4 Rock Carving Turn right and walk along the focus of the annual Cheung Chau Bun Festival Yam temple, which is dedicated to the god- the island, is said to have been the favourite Cheung Chau Beach Rd to a 3000-year-old ( p142 ) in late April or early May. It is dedicated dess of mercy. Continue up the footpath hideout of the notorious pirate Cheung Po rock carving of two identical geometric designs, to the Taoist deity Pak Tai, the ‘Supreme and look for the sign to the Fa Peng Knoll. Tsai, who once commanded a flotilla of 600 just below the Warwick Hotel. Behind the Emperor of the Dark Heaven’, military protec- The concrete footpath takes you past quiet, junks and had a private army of 4000 men. hotel is Cheung Chau Sports Rd; walk up and tor of the state, guardian of peace and order, tree-shrouded villas. He surrendered to the Qing government in when you see a pavilion, turn right onto Kwun and protector of fisherfolk. Legend tells that From the knoll you can walk down to 1810 and became an official himself, but his Yam Wan Rd and from there onto Peak Rd, early settlers from Guangdong province signposted Don Bosco Rd; it leads due south treasure is said to remain hidden here. which takes you around to the other side of brought an image of Pak Tai with them to to rocky Nam Tam Wan (also known as Morning It’s a 2km walk from Cheung Chau village the pavilion. Cheung Chau and, when the statue was car- Beach), where swimming is possible. If you along Sai Wan Rd, or take a kaido (adult/ ried through the village, Cheung Chau was ignore Don Bosco Rd and continue walking child $3/2 – but dependent on passenger spared the plague that had decimated the west, you’ll come to the intersection of Peak numbers) from the cargo ferry pier to the WALK FACTS populations of nearby islands. A temple dedi- and Kwun Yam Wan Rds. Kwun Yam Wan Rd pier at Sai Wan. From here the walk is less Start Cheung Chau ferry pier (ferry from pier 5 in cated to the saviour was built six years later. and its extension, School Rd, will take you than 200m (uphill). Central)

back to Cheung Chau village. End Sai Wan (kaido to Cheung Chau ferry pier) BEACHES Map p143 Peak Rd is the main route to the island’s TIN HAU TEMPLES Map p143 Distance 4.5km fCheung Chau cemetery in the southwestern part of the fCheung Chau Time 2½ hours Tung Wan Beach, Cheung Chau’s longest and island; you’ll pass several pavilions along Cheung Chau has four temples dedicated Fuel stop Hometown Teahouse most popular (though not its prettiest) the way built for coffin bearers making to Tin Hau, the empress of heaven and 144 145 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 0 500 m 0200 m ISLAND LIFE 0 0.3 miles PENG CHAU 0 0.1 miles To Lantau To Central Sewage Island (7km); (16km); Treatment ACB D Peng Chau Tsim Sha Tsui Works (10km) (18km) Pak She Fourth La Tung Transmitting Playing Wan Radio Station Fields 2 Pak 1 Pak She Praya Rd Kwok Boatyards She St Man Rd

C Wave 3 h a Reflector San Hi u n g Tung C h Wan Kwun a ng St u Beach Yam Cheung B e Wan Chau a ch Wan Rd Rd Cheung Chau To Tai Lei 1 Wan

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Italian Wave d Beach R Reflector INFORMATION

Ka HSBC ः䈤䡔㸠...... 1 B3 2 Shing Post Office ...... B3 d 䛉ሔ selling everything from Thai goods to New R an 5 Cheung Chau Meteorological Station Age products. There are also a few closet- Na m Sh SIGHTS (pp146–7) sized restaurants whose sea views have un- Peng Chau Market ാ⌆㸫Ꮦ ...... 3 B3 Follow Peak Rd West about 500m past Kam 4 Yuen Tong Tin Hau Temple ໽ৢᒳ ...... B3 Kong Primary School to the Meteorological Sta- fortunately been ruined by a massive concrete 4 Monastery tion, offering splendid views of the island and ‘wave reflector’ and promenade running along EATING (p201) Greeny Grassland ...... 5 A3 sea. A bit further south and through the trees the shore south of the ferry pier. 䴦㤝ഄ OUTLYING ISLANDS The appeal of visiting Peng Chau lies in To Mui Wo (5.5km); DRINKING (p213) OUTLYING ISLANDS to the left is Cheung Chau Cemetery, affording a Cheung Forest Bar & Restaurant...... 6 B3 quiet and solemn view out to sea. Stay left slacking your pace to match the island’s, and Chau (13.5km) To Central (13km) where the path splits in the cemetery. soaking up the traditional sights and sounds, such as the clatter of mah jong tiles with the ing moved to mainland China, though you at the Tin Hau temple, containing a century-old 6 Cheung Po Tsai Cave Follow the signs plaintive accompaniment of Cantonese opera will find a couple of porcelain and gift shops 2.5m-long whale bone blackened by incense for Sai Wan and signs to the Cheung Po Tsai Cave leaking from old transistors. on Wing Hing and Wing On Sts. There’s a smoke, and walk south along Wing On St. (p145 ) , a place where pirates of old were sup- Until recently the island’s economy was branch of HSBC (%2983 0383; 1 Wing Hing St; hMon, This gives way to Shing Ka Rd, and Nam posed to have buried their booty. Return via supported by fishing and some cottage indus- Wed & Fri) nearby. The post office is due west near Shan Rd leads from here east up to Finger the well-signposted kaido (adult/child $3/2) tries, notably the manufacture of porcelain, the start of the promenade. Hill. The water at otherwise-pleasant Tung Wan back to Cheung Chau village. Alternatively, furniture and metal tubing. These manufac- Looking not unlike a plumped-out horse- Beach, a five-minute walk from the ferry pier, follow Sai Wan Rd around the bay and north turing industries are now all but dead, hav- shoe jettisoned from Lantau’s northeast coast, is too dirty for swimming and is not served back to the village (20 to 30 minutes). Peng Chau is just under 1 sq km in area. It is by lifeguards. inhabited by around 7000 people, making it far more densely populated than its larger PENG CHAU TRANSPORT – PENG CHAU neighbour. MA WAN Tiny Peng Chau (Map p147 ) is fairly flat and There are no cars on Peng Chau, and you Ma Wan (Map pp50–1 , Map p136 ) was once famous Ferry Services from Central leave from pier 6 of the as the gateway to Kowloon, where foreign not especially beautiful, but it does have its Outlying Islands ferry terminal. Ferries also depart can walk around it easily in an hour. Climbing charms. It is perhaps the most traditionally the steps up to Finger Hill (95m), the island’s ships would drop anchor before entering Chi- from Mui Wo and Chi Ma Wan on Lantau and from nese waters. If you want to get away from it Chinese of the Outlying Islands, with narrow Cheung Chau. Additionally, regular kaidos operate highest point, and topped with the winged alleyways, crowded housing, a covered wet Chinese-style Fung Ping Pavilion, offers some light all, Ma Wan is hardly the place to go. It’s got to Peng Chau from the Trappist Monastery and a couple of temples devoted to Tin Hau, a market near the ferry pier, a couple of small Discovery Bay on Lantau. exercise and excellent views. To get to it from but important temples, and interesting shops the ferry pier, walk up Lo Peng St, turn right long beach on the east coast at Tung Wan and 146 147 © Lonely Planet Publications lonelyplanet.com particularly interested in seeing the bridge in the territory and it is certainly the largest, lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT – MA WAN up close ( below ). TRANSPORT – TSING YI measuring 2.4m by 1.8m. The ferry pier is close by. Ferry Services from Central leave from pier 2 of MTR Tsing Yi station on Tung Chung line. the Outlying Islands ferry terminal. Ferries also TSING YI Airport Express Tsing Yi station for services from TUNG LUNG FORT Map pp50–1 Tsing Yi (Map pp50–1 ) , disfigured by oil depots depart from Tsuen Wan. The ferry pier is south of Hong Kong and Kowloon or the airport. fTung Lung Chau and extended by land reclamation, serves as Tsuen Wan West KCR station (Map pp50–1 ) . Tung Lung Fort, on the northeastern cor- a stepping stone for the gigantic Tsing Ma Green minibus For the Lantau Viewing Platform and Visitor Centre take minibus 308M from Tsing Yi ner of the island, was built in the late 17th Bridge, at 1377m the world’s longest suspen- or early 18th century and was attacked a a massive, high-end residential community sion bridge. Don’t even think about visiting MTR station (exit A1). called Park Island. Basically you’re here to number of times by pirate bands before the beaches. being abandoned in 1810. The fort once view some startling engineering feats. Tsing Yi is the large island to the east of Ma Wan is a flat, rapidly developing is- of Ting Kau Bridge. To reach it, take the consisted of 15 guardhouses and was Ma Wan on the MTR’s Tung Chung and the land off the northeastern tip of Lantau. It is MTR to Tsing Yi station, use exit No A1 and armed with eight cannons, but little of it Airport Express lines. effectively the ‘anchor’ for the Lantau Link board minibus 308M in Maritime Sq, which remains today except for the outline of the between Hong Kong’s largest island and the will drop you off at the centre’s car park. exterior walls. There’s an information centre New Territories. LANTAU LINK VISITORS CENTRE (h9am-4pm Wed-Mon) here. Map pp50–1 % TUNG LUNG CHAU LANTAU LINK BRIDGES 2495 5825, 2495 7583; admission free; Standing guard at the eastern entrance to Vic- PO TOI Map pp50–1 , Map p136 h10am-5pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 10am-6.30pm toria Harbour is the island of Tung Lung Chau Sat & Sun; MTR Tsing Yi, ggreen minibus 308M Eating p201 fMa Wan (Map pp50–1) , or ‘East Dragon Island’, whose Po Toi (Map pp50–1 ) is a solid favourite of week- The real reason to come to Ma Wan is to The Lantau Link Visitors Centre and its view- position was once considered strategic enough ing platform (admission free; h7am-10.30pm Sun-Fri, end holiday-makers with their own seagoing take in the enormity of Tsing Ma Bridge to for protection. According to the experts the transport. They frequent the seafood restau- the east (and, to a lesser extent, Kap Shui 7am-1.30am Sat) is where you can take in the island is Hong Kong’s premier spot for rock enormity of Tsing Yi Bridge and the Lantau rants beyond the jetty at Tai Wan, the main set- Mun Bridge on the west), which forms the climbing (p223 ) . tlement, in the island’s southwest. rail and road link connecting Lantau with Link, the combined road and rail transport Tung Lung Chau lies to the south of the CATR IL TITLE CHAPTER Po Toi is the largest of a group of four or TITLE CHAPTER connection between the New Territories the New Territories via Tsing Yi Island. While Clearwater Bay Peninsula across the narrow five islands – one is little more than a huge and Lantau. The centre contains models, catapulting Ma Wan headlong into the Fat Tong Mun channel. To the west is Shek rock – off the southeastern coast of Hong next century, the bridge has guaranteed an photographs and videos of the construc- O and Big Wave Bay on Hong Kong Island’s Kong Island. Hong Kong’s territorial border end to the island’s solitude; it now serves tion process – very much a crowd-pleaser east coast. In addition, the northwest tip of lies just 2km to the south. as a huge platform for the civil engineer- for train spotters and the hard-hat brigade. the island boasts an important rock carving OUTLYING ISLANDS There’s some decent walking on Po Toi, a OUTLYING ISLANDS ing works overhead. Neighbouring Tsing The visitors centre is in the northwest of what is generally thought to be a dragon. tiny Tin Hau temple across the bay from the pier, Yi has a special viewing platform for those corner of Tsing Yi Island just to the south It is quite possibly the oldest such carving and, on the southern coast, rock formations that (supposedly) look like a palm tree, a tor- toise and a monk, and some mysterious rock THE PINK DOLPHINS OF THE PEARL RIVER TRANSPORT – TUNG LUNG CHAU carvings resembling stylised animals and fish. Between 100 and 200 misnamed Chinese white dolphins (Sousa chinensis) – they are actually bubble-gum pink – You can see everything here in an hour. inhabit the coastal waters around Hong Kong, finding the brackish waters of the Pearl River estuary to be the perfect Ferry Kaidos run from Sai Wan Ho on Hong Kong habitat. Unfortunately these glorious mammals, which are also called Indo-Pacific humpback dolphins, are being Island via Joss House Bay on the Clearwater Bay threatened by environmental pollution, and their numbers are dwindling. Peninsula in the New Territories. There are single TRANSPORT – PO TOI The threat comes in many forms, but the most prevalent – and direct – dangers are sewage, chemicals, over-fish- sailings on Tuesday and Thursday, with more regular ing and boat traffic. Some 200,000 cu metres of untreated sewage are dumped into the western harbour every day, services only on weekends and public holidays. A Ferry Kaidos run to the ferry pier from Aberdeen and high concentrations of chemicals such as DDT have been found in tissue samples taken from some of the dolphins. weekend and holiday service also operates from and Stanley on Tuesdays, Thursdays, weekends and Several dolphins have been entangled in fishing nets and, despite the dolphins’ skill at sensing and avoiding surface Sam Ka Tsuen near Yau Tong MTR. public holidays. vessels, some have collided with boats. The dolphins’ habitat has also been diminished by the erosion of the natural coastline of Lantau Island during the construction of Hong Kong International Airport, which required land reclamation of 9.5 sq km of seabed and the destruction of many kilometres of natural coastline. The North Lantau Hwy also consumed about 10km of the natural coastline. The Hong Kong Disneyland theme park also required large amounts of reclamation in Penny’s Bay. Hong Kong Dolphinwatch (Map p92 ; %2984 1414; www.hkdolphinwatch.com; 15th fl, Middle Block, 1528A Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui) was founded in 1995 to raise awareness of these wonderful creatures and promote responsible ecotourism. It offers 2½-hour cruises (adult/student & senior/child under 12 $360/255/180) to see the pink © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally dolphins in their natural habitat every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday year-round. Guides assemble in the lobbies of the restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes Mandarin Oriental in Central at 8.30am and the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui at 9am for the bus to Tung Chung via only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to the Tsing Ma Bridge, from where the boat departs; the tours return at 1pm or 1.30pm. About 97% of the cruises result in the sighting of at least one dolphin; if none are spotted, passengers are offered a free trip. everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ 148 149 © Lonely Planet Publications

MEET THE LOCALS

Talk to seasoned travellers from Mumbai or Delhi and they may tell you what dull back- waters London or New York are compared with their home cities. You get the same feeling about Hong Kong citizens, who were weaned on the city’s buzz and bustle. They’re proud of its go-ahead spirit, philosophical about the shocking air quality and quite restless in the absence of ceaseless activity. Perhaps the strongest feeling you get talking to Hong Kong people is their love of the energy and contrast offered by the city’s kaleidoscopic neighbourhoods. Where else can you barter amid the intimate colour and gore of traditional wet markets while cricking your neck beneath looming corporate monoliths? Not every contrast is a happy one, though. The vast gulf that divides Hong Kong’s mega- rich and those merely getting by is written in the skyline. A very few private houses and executive residential blocks look down on countless ranks of nondescript public housing sprouting from the narrow streets below. High-rise living (and long working hours) may be the lot of the majority but it’s not the whole story. To set sail on the harbour for one of the outlying islands or board a double- decker across to Hong Kong Island’s southern shores is to realise just how much space and peace everyone can enjoy in this tiny territory of seven million souls. Just don’t expect solitude in any neighbourhood on weekends, when absolutely everyone heads outdoors. And just think: if plans to merge Hong Kong and its neighbour Shen- zhen into a single megacity bear fruit, you ‘aint seen nothing yet.

Tea ceremony at Ngong Ping Village (p137), Lantau Name Calvin Yeung Age 40-something Occupation Designer & Executive Chef of the Aqua Restaurant Group Residence Hong Kong Island

The Landmark shopping mall (p162) in Central is home to fine dining and high fashion (top); Drying fish in the traditional village of Tai O (p138), Lantau (middle); Food stalls in Tsim Sha Tsui (p166), Kowloon (bottom)

What’s special about the food in Hong Kong? I like the combination of how seafood is treated and the way traditional Chinese food is celebrated. The approach to seafood is about ‘less is more’, which keeps it fresh and real tasting… whether that’s prawns dried without seasoning in the sun, or fresh fish simply prepared.

What do you do when you’re off duty? I enjoy simple home cooking with fresh ingredients. There’s lots of good material to work with in Hong Kong’s wet markets.

What do you tell visitors to do and see when they come to Hong Kong? Head up the Mid-Levels escalator, explore Lan Kwai Fong, Soho and Sheung Wan. You experience so many different layers of Hong Kong culture old and new: tourist spots, trendy places, tucked-away art galleries, traditional retail stores, such as Chinese medicine tea houses, and ancient architecture.

What’s your favourite Hong Kong day out? Eating well on our junk Aqua Luna, on the harbour during the best time of year, autumn.

Any grumbles about your home town? Land reclamation! Victoria harbour is a stunning place to be, but I really worry how it will be affected by all this commercial activity.

Top-quality produce at the Graham St Market (p180), Central For you, Hong Kong in a word? Speedy. Name Dr Allan Zemun Age 57 Occupation Entrepreneur & Property Developer Residence Southern Hong Kong Island

The scenic cable car in Ocean Park (p82), Aberdeen (top); The beach at Repulse Bay (p86) attracts lots of visitors (middle); Causeway Bay (p73) is one of Hong Kong’s top shopping and nightlife areas (bottom)

What makes Hong Kong so special? It’s the fact that you can have an idea in the morning and make it happen the same day. It is a fantastic city to do business in, probably the best in the world. The possibilities are amazing.

Ten years on from the handover has Hong Kong changed? Hong Kong is better than ever, thanks to China. Everyone was questioning what was going to happen after the handover, but it has clearly benefited Hong Kong. We’re now much better integrated with the Mainland economy – the world’s 4th biggest.

What’s your favourite Hong Kong day out? Taking my boat out to the beaches in Sai Kung ( p126 ), then dinner in Lan Kwai Fong, and spending time with friends in the buzzing bars and clubs.

What are your favourite Hong Kong things? The cable-car ride at Ocean Park ( p82 ), the stunning skyline, and the huge diversity of shopping and eating.

Hong Kong in a word? Vibrant.

The high-rise Central Plaza and the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (p64), Wan Chai Name Colette Koo Age 47, going on 27 Occupation Bar & Club Owner Residence Jardine’s Lookout

Lan Kwai Fong (p204) is a popular place to go for a drink (top); Peak Cafe Bar (p208), Soho (middle); FINDS Bar & Restaurant (p206), Central (bottom)

What can you expect from a night out in Hong Kong these days? The variety is amazing and the atmosphere is friendly with no hassle.

What’s hot? Small and more private bars and clubs are pop- ping up everywhere. Hong Kong’s club and bar scene is all about intimate places and spaces.

How should you approach a night out in Hong Kong to get the best from it? Look at it as a moving feast, go with the flow. Expect to go to different places along the way, expect to meet lots of new people and expect to drink!

If you had to choose: nightclub or karaoke? Nightclub… have you heard me sing!?

Ten years on from the handover have you noticed any changes? The party scene has become much more vibrant.

What’s your favourite Hong Kong day out? Wake-boarding in the morning, a seafood lunch, chill in the afternoon, have dinner with a few friends and drinks on the terrace at FINDS ( p177 ). If the mood takes us, then Drop ( p214 ) till 5am!

What are your favourite Hong Kong things? The sea, the closeness of everything (including neighbouring countries), the few remaining open markets, the efficiency and conven- Staunton’s Wine Bar & Cafe (p208), Soho ience. It’s safe and the people are kind. © Lonely Planet Publications Name The Hon Leung Kwok Hung (aka Long Hair) Age 51 Occupation Legislative Council Member & Political Activist Residence Kowloon Bay

Stalls at the Graham St Market (p180), Central (top); Shop with the locals on Nathan Rd, Mong Kok © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally (middle; p169); Find a bargain at the Temple Street Night Market (p96), Yau Ma Tei (bottom) restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes You spent years demonstrating outside the Legislative only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to Council (and sometimes getting chucked out of it). What everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying are you trying to achieve now that you are an elected the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ member of it? I want to show what a sham the current political system is. Collusion between business and government is as bad as ever and the election of the chief executive by 800 people in a territory of nearly seven million is a joke.

Ten years on from the handover have you noticed any changes? Politically it has got more repressive. I hope that eventually we will see full democracy in Hong Kong but in the short term I’m not optimistic.

If you had to choose: nightclub or karaoke? Definitely karaoke. There are good places all over Hong Kong, although it’s becoming an expensive night out for local kids.

What are your favourite Hong Kong things? I’m so busy I don’t get much free time to enjoy them. A night of karaoke maybe or a drink in Club 71 ( p208 ), although it hasn’t been the same since it moved location and changed its name from Club 64.