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We're All Becoming One Another

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We're All Becoming One Another DIVERSITY We’re all becoming one another BRAND GEN 08 The word diversity in relation to the beauty industry is a word that has been used historically but only recently begun to be addressed as a practice. Why is the beauty and personal care market having to re-think how to reflect diversity? • An increase in the black and ethnic minority population • Increased spending power of the over 40’s • Increasing numbers of middle classes in emerging markets such as Mexico and Brazil (Euromonitor international) • Changing habits in urbanised emerging markets • Customers need for uniquely tailored personalised product BRAND GEN HART D’LACEY © 2017 1 “ There’s this incredible increase in the middle class, very often driven by higher women’s education in a lot of these markets, that is fuelling and increasing the consumption class – and also the flat world of communications following global fashion and beauty trends” Susan Akkad Senior vice president of local and cultural platforms and corporate innovation Estée Lauder BRAND GEN HART D’LACEY © 2017 2 Brands are slowly segmenting offerings based on ethnic, cultural and gender needs, creating targeted solutions for Diversity shouldn’t be labelled diversity, a wider ever growing audience, but why instead it should be integral to the way have brands been slow in representing we live, a celebration of difference while being inclusive. It should celebrate what the diverse nature of our society? makes an individual unique, whether those are visible characteristics like someone’s colour, race, gender, weight, sexuality or age, whilst also recognising that our heritage, personalities, life experiences and beliefs, make us who we are and forms our individual world views. Brands can no longer just assume that everyone is the same, and treat everyone with the same methods of marketing and product development. Brands have to employ strategies that empower individuals and respect that we all have unique identities. BRAND GEN HART D’LACEY © 2017 3 “ Our rigidly enforced gender and racial lines are finally breaking down… There’s a sense of fluidity and permissiveness… We’re all becoming one another. Wesley Morris New York Times BRAND GEN HART D’LACEY © 2017 4 Racially diverse societies are rapidly becoming the new global mainstream. As the world changes, people are increasingly relating to each other by celebrating their differences and connecting to each other with what makes them human. In Britain for example, Black Africans and Bangladeshis represent the fastest growing ethnic groups, while the 2011 census reveals that Britain’s mixed race population grew from 9% in 2001 to 14% – now standing at eight million people, with the Office for National Statistics predicting this will increase to 35% of the total population by 2035. In the US the Census Bureau predicts that by 2042, minority groups will become the new majority: making up more than half of the total population. Not only are societies becoming more racially diverse, but spending patterns are changing. With a rise in education and prosperity there has been increased spending in the beauty market in emerging regions such as China, Brazil and Mexico. BRAND GEN HART D’LACEY © 2017 5 Brands are reassessing the representation of black and ethnic minorities in high profile advertising campaigns, with Lancome being fronted by the Kenyan-Mexican actor Lupita Nyong’o, and L'Oreal using a wide range of women and men of colour for their True Match campaign. Whether these efforts by the cosmetics giants are a socially conscious movement, or a means to take advantage of highly profitable emerging markets remains to be seen. 70 per cent of black and Asian women felt the high street did Historically, beauty brands and retailers have been slow to react and develop products for people of not cater for their colour with the perception that this market would beauty needs. not present a large enough return on investment. For many consumers the aim of make-up is to gravitate Mintel towards a Caucasian face using skin lighteners and conforming to European ideals of beauty. However, there has always been a lack of choice for women of colour when shopping for beauty product. This was underlined by research carried out by Superdrug who revealed that 70 per cent of black and Asian women felt the high street did not cater for their beauty needs (Mintel). BRAND GEN HART D’LACEY © 2017 6 FENTY SLEEK STURM Rhianna’s Fenty Beauty is a recent success story Sleek MakeUP started 25 years ago, selling cosmetic German cosmetic surgeon Barbera Sturm has an targeting women of all skin tones and types and focusing products for Afro-Carribbean and Asian skin tones. established reputation within celebrity circles. on inclusivity rather than a specific make-up trend. Since then it has grown quickly and is now stocked in Alongside the actor Angela Bassett she has developed Superdrug, Boots and have a strong online presence. the first luxury skincare range specifically for darker The brand has received positive reviews from women Their website claims that Sleek understands skin tone, skin tones, a market that Sturm points out is ignored of different ethnic backgrounds on social media, catering from fair to dark and everyone in between, by the mainstream industry. reflecting the continued need for the cosmetics sector with products that aim to make the latest beauty to cater to all skin colours. “Men have separate skincare ranges because their trends truly accessible. skin needs are different. The eastern Asian market This launch comes at a time when recent projections has its own skincare lines, too. There’s makeup and show that the global colour cosmetics market, will haircare aimed at people of colour, so why isn’t reach $77.7 billion by 2020, (Marketsa ndMarkets). there skincare too?” (Guardian) The market was valued at $57.4 billion in 2014. Whether or not this effort is purely taking advantage of a growing market remains to be seen “I’m a scientist – everything I do has research and studies behind it. I’m just passionate about using skincare to support people.” (Guardian) BRAND GEN HART D’LACEY © 2017 7 Alongside the continued rise of the male grooming market (estimated to be worth £130 billion by 2022 - beautypackaging.com), is the growing male cosmetics market. Historically there has been a gender split between make up for men and make up for women, but a rise of inclusive beauty campaigns and mens beauty vlogging shows there has been a shift in attitudes and a realisation that gender diversity in the market is to be celebrated. Increasing popular Male beauty influencers are utilising online channels such as Youtube to communicate tips, advice and beauty content to “ male audiences. Consumers are moving away from This sub category has been coined traditional gender stereotypes, in part Diverse Beauty (pixability.com) driven by the increased visibility of and has historically targeted women. This new content is being led by gender diversity. As such, the traditional male, transgender and gender gender boundaries associated with nonconforming creators. fashion and beauty trends are becoming The demographic most likely to progressively blurred.” reject traditional gender stereotypes is males aged 18–34, who have grown Mintel up with more fluid ideas of gender identity, challenging the norms of the beauty industry. BRAND GEN HART D’LACEY © 2017 8 Popularity in the male cosmetics Transgender models and celebrities sector has been significant enough are also being approached to be brand for leading beauty brands to take ambassadors. MAC teamed up with Caitlyn notice and seek partnerships with Jenner earlier this year showcasing a individuals such as Manny Mua, a male 15 piece cosmetics line, ‘championing all beauty influencer with over 3.7 million ages, all races, and all sexes’ (elle.com) followers on Youtube and over 4 million on Instagram is Maybelline’s first male brand ambassador. While Patrick Starrr, one of the most influential beauty bloggers online with a following of over “ 3 million on Youtube, is Sephora's With young men being the most likely to agree brand ambassador and has recently that they value the advice of beauty bloggers launched a collection with more than store staff (47% of male 16-24s), MAC cosmetics. UK retailers could benefit from diversifying their brand collaborators to capitalise on the rising male beauty trend, the promotion of gender diversity and the influence of social media celebrities.” Mintel L'Oreal's True Match campaign ambassador The Plastic Boy (aka Gary Thompson) hopes that being in his position will help inspire others who have felt neglected by beauty brands in the past. The brand also created an advertising campaign in 2017 featuring Hari Nef, a transgender woman and spokesperson for the brand. L’Oreal Paris hopes to increase its diversity in the future – “We are very aware that the cosmetics market is growing and that more guys are using makeup and starting makeup blogs. The True Match campaign showed we are listening to everybody and is a declaration of equality and diversity.” Adrien Koskas, L’Oreal Paris General Manager, BRAND GEN HART D’LACEY © 2017 9 “ Social media beauty influencers have blossomed from a small group of young people putting how-to videos and images on social media platforms such as YouTube, Instagram and Snapchat, into a full-on community, some would even say, a movement, which embraces diversity and timely cultural issues. Moj Mahdara Beautycon co-founder and CEO BRAND GEN HART D’LACEY © 2017 10 Another demographic continually overlooked by the beauty industry is the older woman. Brands have historically based marketing strategies around a younger female consumer, helping younger women look Beauty product good and trying to consumers aged 45-54 help older women are now spending look younger.
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