Relaxation Robe ______

Unisex Adults Sizes

What’s Inside ______

Getting Started 4 Printing Your Pattern 5 Settings 5 How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers) 6 Printing the Instructions 6 Relaxation Robe 7 Size Chart 7 Finished Garment Measurements 8 Materials & Tools 9 Cutting Instructions 10 Fabric Tips 11 Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics 11 Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet 12 Sewing Instructions 13 Preparation 13 STEP 1 – Shoulder Seams 13 STEP 2 – OPTIONAL Hanging Loop 13 STEP 3 – Sleeves 15 STEP 4 – Belt Loops 16 STEP 5 – Side Seams 18 STEP 6 – Collar 18 STEP 7 – OPTIONAL Pockets 21 STEP 8 – Hem 22 STEP 9 – Belt 23 Pattern Pieces 27

Website rebecca-page.com

Facebook Page facebook.com/rebeccapageofficial

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Twitter twitter.com/rebecca_page

Newsletter rebecca-page.com/newsletter

Email [email protected]

YouTube youtube.com/user/rebeccapage1

Product Sales & Licensing Information ______

This pattern is copyrighted 2019 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com.

Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we’d love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it’s up to you.

The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.

Best of luck and happy sewing!

Getting Started ______

Need help? Have a question?

Join our Facebook Group at https://www.facebook.com/groups/mummykinsandme/

You can get help, ask questions, share your tips and shortcuts and share your creations! We’re a friendly bunch and we love helping out and seeing what you’ve made. 

Before you get started…

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Make sure to wash, dry and press your fabric before you cut out your pattern pieces. Fabric can often shrink by significant amounts on the first wash. To avoid your beautiful creation ending up an inch too small or twisted out of shape, pre-wash the fabric now before you get started. It might be a pain if you just want to start straight away, but a bit of prep now means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons or anything they could remove, choke on or get caught on. Never let them sleep in garments with ties on and use caution if you are at all unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Printing Your Pattern ______

Settings

The pattern is printed at the back of this booklet. It is designed to be printed on A4 paper at 100%. If you wish to print on US Letter, please download the US Letter size version. Make sure that the “fit to page” option is not checked on your printer options.

On the first page, you will find a 1- inch square test box. Print this page first on its own and check the measurements of the square. Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, you can print the rest of the pattern pages.

This is a “no-trim” pattern which means you don’t need to trim the edges off around the rectangles unless you wish to. Once you’ve printed your pattern, tape the rectangles together using the diagram here for reference, overlapping the circles in each corner. Each page is marked in the bottom left corner. The numbers go across; the letters go downwards. The first row of pages will be A1, A2, A3 and so on. The row below that B1, B2, B3 and so on.

The sizes are differentiated by both different line styles, and different colors. It is up to you whether you wish to print in color, or in black and white.

Adults’ Pages to Print - A4 Main Bathrobe OPTIONAL Hanging Loop OPTIONAL Pockets 1 27-32, 34-51, 54-61 45 52-53 2 27-51, 54-61 45 52-53 3 27-52, 54-61 45 52-53 4 – 5 27-52, 54-62 45 52-53

Print at 100% (no scale), in black and white or color

How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers)

This pattern uses layers so you can print only the sizes you want. Open the pattern in Adobe Reader (not your internet browser). Click on the “layers” button on the very left of the screen. Unselect all sizes except the size you want. Leave the “Common Elements” and “Splitting Layer” on. Then print!

NOTE – In this example only size 18-24 months would print.

Printing the Instructions

The instructions are designed for everyone from beginner upwards, so there are a LOT of pictures throughout the instructions. For this reason, some people do not print these in full (however you can if you wish!). If, however, you want to print a one page quick-glance cheat sheet (no photos, intermediate / advanced level instructions), you will find this on page 12.

Relaxation Robe ______

Difficulty Level = Beginner

The Bathrobe is a quick and easy sew - perfect for the whole family. Whether you are using it as a pool or beach cover up or as a traditional bathrobe or extra winter layer, it has a relaxing spa vibe.

You can customize it with contrasting fabric for the collar, pockets, and belt or even add embroidery to the collar.

Size Chart

This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:

This is a non-fitted unisex pattern so please measure your chest size and select from the sizing below.

Adults’ Size Chart Chest Inches CM 1 30 – 35 76 – 89 2 36 – 41 92 – 104 3 42 – 47 107 – 120 4 48 – 53 122 – 135 5 54 – 59 137 – 150

Finished Garment Measurements

Adults Finished Garment Measurements (INCHES) Chest Lengths Front Crossed Over Front Open Neck at Collar Sleeve as Worn and Laying Flat Bone to Hem 1 44 11 42 20 2 47 11.6 42 20 3 50 12.3 43 21 4 53 13.1 44 21 5 56 14.1 45 21

Fitting Notes: • This bathrobe has a dropped shoulder and is not a fitted garment, making it a loose fit. It crosses over itself so is quite forgiving. You can cross it over more or less for a tighter or looser fit. Your fabric choice will also affect the fit – a stretchy fabric will be looser fitting, while a woven fabric may be a bit snugger. • Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart. • As there isn’t any shaping at the waist, choose your size based on the largest chest measurement in the size chart and finished garment measurements. If your hip measurement is larger than your chest measurement you will need to grade out to the next size. We suggest grading from just below the belt notch. Due to the loose fit, ladies won’t need to make any bust adjustments. • Height: o The adults pattern is designed for a height 5 foot 8. If you need to adjust the height, simply remove/add length at the hem of the front, back and sleeves. o The child’s heights are listed in the size chart. Choose the size based on the chest measurements. If their height falls in another size, use the finished garment center back measurements to choose the correct length to make for your child, and add length to your chosen size. • Belt length – Depending on your fabric choice you may wish to lengthen the belt. Fabric that doesn’t have a lot of give may need length adding onto the belt. • Hanging loop – If your fabric is thick you may want to increase the size of the hanging loop. Use the belt loop measurements for this loop. • Shoulder seams – If your fabric is very loose fitting/lightweight you may need some support at the shoulder seams. Adding twill tape to these seams will add strength. • Muslin – To get a perfect fit, make a muslin (test garment) out of practice / old fabric to see if you want to make any fit adjustments. • If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources at https://pinterest.com/rebeccajpage/sewing-fitting-advice/

Materials & Tools

Fabric • You can use nearly any fabric for this pattern (knit or woven). The instructions are written for knit/stretch fabrics, so you’ll find it’s all regular or serged seams (not French seams). • Some options are: towelling, fleece, french terry, waffle weave, velour, micro chenille, satin, or silk. • If you use a woven fabric, we recommend either serging the raw edges, or doing French seams. • If you use a thicker fabric, your bathrobe will be fluffy and cozy! If you use a thinner fabric, it can be soft, lightweight and silky. The choice is up to you.

Fabric Estimates in YARDS OPTIONAL Contrasting Pieces All One Color Contrasting Collar, Belt & Main Bathrobe Pocket 45in / 115cm 60in / 45in / 60in / 45in / 115cm wide 60in / 150cm wide wide 150cm wide 115cm wide 150cm wide 1 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.75 1.5 2 3.75 3 3.25 2 1.75 1.5 3 4 3 3.5 2 1.75 1.5 4 4 3 3.75 2 1.75 1.5 5 4.75 3 4 2.75 2 1.5

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print or a fabric with nap you may need more. ** Make sure to wash, dry and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need: • Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, needle, scissors, twin needle, tailors chalk/disappearing fabric marker tape measure/ruler, and a safety pin/loop turner to turn out the belt. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Cutting Instructions ______

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below:

Adults Cutting Chart Belt Belt Loops Optional Hanging Optional Pockets

(cut 2) (cut 2) Loop (cut 1) (cut 2) Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length 1 4 29.5 2 7 2 5 8 9 2 4 32.5 2 7 2 5 8 9 3 4 35.4 2 7 2 5 8 9 4 4 38.6 2 7 2 5 8 9 5 4 41.5 2 7 2 5 8 9

Cutting Checklist: • Front – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair) • Back – cut 1 on fold • Sleeves – cut 2 on fold (1x mirror image pair) • Belt – cut 2 • Belt Loops – cut 2 • Collar – cut 4 (2x mirror image pair) • OPTIONAL Pockets – cut 2 • OPTIONAL Hanging Loop – cut 1

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric in half. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly, the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off with a woven fabric) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Fabric Tips ______

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine. • Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches. • Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right. • Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle. • Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine. • Use a ball point twin needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you. • Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use. From left to right: Ballpoint twin needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet (full step-by-step tutorial starts on next page) ______

½ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch - Basting ¼ inch

Preparation – 1. Transfer pattern markings.

Sewing – 1. Shoulder seams - With the right sides together stitch the fronts to the back at the shoulder seams. 2. OPTIONAL hanging loop - If adding the optional hanging loop - fold piece like double fold bias tape. Top stitch closed. Baste ends to back neckline ½ inch either side of center. Top stitch all the way around. 3. Sleeves - With the right sides together, sew the sleeves to the bodice along the armscye. 4. Belt loops - Fold the belt loop in half with the right sides together and stitch down the long edge. Turn right side out and baste the belt loop to the front bodice at the notch. Repeat for the other belt loop. 5. Side seams - With the right sides together, stitch the front to the back along the sleeve and down the side seam. Repeat for the other side seam. 6. Collar – With right sides together, stitch together two of the mirror image collar along the short edge. Repeat for the other two collar pieces. With right sides together, stitch the two sets of collar pieces together along the outer curved edge. Turn the collar right side out and press. Stitch the collar to the bodice along the right side of the front edge and neckline. 7. OPTIONAL Pockets - Press all four sides of the pocket ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch close to the folded edge of the top of the pocket. Pin the pocket to the front bodice at the pattern markings. Topstitch down the side, across the bottom, and up the other side of the pocket. Repeat for the other pocket. 8. Hem - Turn the hem under ½ inch and press, then topstitch. Refold the sleeves memory hem and topstitch. 9. Belt - Stitch the belt pieces with the right sides together along a short edge. Press the seam open. Fold the belt in half, matching up the long raw edges and stitch leaving a 2-inch gap for turning. Clip the corners. Turn the belt right side out and press. Ladder stitch the gap closed.

Sewing Instructions ______

½ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch - Basting ¼ inch

Preparation

Transfer pattern markings – Transfer all pattern markings from the pattern pieces to your fabric, including the pocket and belt loops placement markings. If you are using a fluffy fabric, you may wish to use pins or clips to mark these. If you are using a lighter weight fabric, use tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.

STEP 1 – Shoulder Seams

1.1 Lay the back piece right side up. Lay the two front pieces right sides down on top of the back piece, matching up the shoulders and pin.

1.2 Serge or stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

STEP 2 – OPTIONAL Hanging Loop

It’s handy to have a little hanging loop at the center back of your robe for hanging on hooks. If you wish to add one, we are now going to fold your hanging loop like double fold bias tape, and top stitch it closed.

If you prefer not to add one, skip to step 3.

2.1 Fold your hanging loop in half along its length, wrong sides together.

Press.

NOTE – Depending on your fabric choice you may need to press using a low heat setting and/or a pressing cloth to protect your fabric.

2.2 Open the loop up again. Fold the raw edges in to meet up at the center fold line you just created. Press.

2.3 Fold in half again down the original fold line. Press.

The raw edges should now be neatly tucked inside, and the loop should be ¼ of its original width, but the same length.

Topstitch ⅛ inch on each long edge.

2.4 Fold the bathrobe in half to find the center back. Measure ½ inch either side of the center point and pin each end of the hanging loop. Make sure to match the raw ends so that the hanging loop is attached by the full seam allowance.

Stitch in place just inside the seam allowance.

NOTE – The image shown is for illustrative purposes.

You will attach the loop to the wrong side of the back.

STEP 3 – Sleeves

3.1 Fold your sleeve in half vertically and mark the center point with a pin, then unfold.

Open the bathrobe and place it right side up. Match the center of the sleeve, right side facing down, to the shoulder seam and pin in place.

Pin each edge of the sleeve to the edge of the armhole. Then, pin the rest of the sleeve to the bathrobe, easing the fabric around the curve.

3.2 Serge or stitch the sleeve to the bathrobe using a ½ inch seam allowance.

3.3 FIT CHECK – You will be creating a memory hem in this step. We recommend trying the robe on to check for any sleeve length adjustments you may need to be make before creating this.

Fold the bottom of the sleeve ½ inch to the wrong side and press. This will create a memory hem.

NOTE - A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It’s much easier to do this now, than to try and press the sleeve hem later when the sleeve is stitched into a circle.

NOTE – Depending on your fabric choice you may need to press using a low heat setting and/or a pressing cloth to protect your fabric.

OPTIONAL - Serge along the sleeve raw edge to finish.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 to attach the other sleeve.

STEP 4 – Belt Loops

For the baby and small sizes skip the belt loops step. Instead, to keep the garment safe for young children, match the center seam of the belt to the center of the back of the robe, at the height of the belt notches and pin at the side seams. Stitch vertically down the belt and then horizontally at the top and bottom of the vertical stitch. This will hold the belt to the garment to help with safety. In addition, we recommend our garments with ties are never slept in and young children aren't left unattended wearing the robe.

4.1 Fold the belt loop in half, right sides together, matching up the long raw edges and pin.

4.2 Serge or stitch along the long edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

4.3 If you haven’t serged the belt loop in step 4.2 I recommend trimming the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk.

Turn right sides out.

There are several ways to turn the belt tube right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it with a loop turner.

Insert the loop turner inside the belt tube until it reaches the other end. Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you’ve turned the tube right side out completely.

Roll the seam under between your fingers so that it lays flat. Press.

4.4 Fold the belt loop in half, matching up the short edges.

With right sides facing up, open up the bathrobe so that the front and back are separate.

Align the two short edges of your belt loop to the notch on the raw edge of the front side seam. Pin in place.

The folded edge of the loop should be facing into the garment.

TIP – If you have them, use clips to hold the belt loop in place as the layers of fabric could be too thick for pins.

TIP - If you're using thick or bulky fabric, you might find it helpful to align one end of your belt loop 1 inch below the notch. Then align the other raw edge of your belt loop 1 inch above the notch. This will make it a bit easier to slide your belt in and out of the loops.

4.5 Baste the belt loop to the front bodice.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before. It is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see them in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.5 for the other belt loop.

STEP 5 – Side Seams

5.1 Unfold the sleeve memory hem. With right sides together, pin the front to the back along the sleeves and down the side seam.

5.2 Serge or stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You will be stitching through four layers when you sew over your belt loops. Sew slowly and check you have caught the belt loop on each side.

Repeat steps 5.1 and 5.2 for the other side seam.

STEP 6 – Collar

6.1 Place two of the mirror image collar pieces right sides together and pin along the short edge.

6.2 Serge or stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

6.3 Press open the seam allowance.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 for the other collar piece.

6.5 With the right sides together, pin the two sets of collar pieces together along the outer curved edge.

6.6 Serge or stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

If you have used a serger, skip to step 6.7.

If you’ve used a regular sewing machine (not serged), trim your seam allowance approximately in half to reduce bulk and neaten. Depending on your fabric type, you may also need to carefully clip into the remaining seam allowance. This will help the curve sit flat.

TIP – Instead of clipping into the seam allowance you could use pinking shears to trim the excess seam allowance. This gives a much smoother curve.

6.7 Turn the collar right side out and press. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

6.8 With right sides together, matching raw edges, pin the middle of the collar to the middle of the robe. Pin along the neckline and down the center front on both sides.

NOTE – Check that you have both layers of the collar and the robe layer pinned together.

6.9 Serge or stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – If you have added the optional hanging loop, check this is stitched into the seam allowance.

6.10 Open the robe, with wrong side facing up, press the seam allowance towards the bodice.

OPTIONAL – If you are using a woven fabric you could topstitch around the collar.

STEP 7 – OPTIONAL Pockets

7.1 Place your pocket piece right side facing down. Press each long side of the pocket ½ inch to the wrong side.

7.2 Press both the top and bottom of the pocket ½ inch to the wrong side.

TIP – The folded edges need to be tucked inside the finished pocket. Once you’ve pressed, turn the pocket over and check it from the right side. If you can see any folded or raw edges poking out from your rectangle, fold them under and press again.

7.3 Stitch across the pocket approximately ⅜ inch from the top edge of the pocket. You are aiming to catch the folded raw edges, so it doesn’t unfold when using the pocket, but also give a nice straight topstitch-type line.

7.4 Wrong side of pocket to right side of robe, pin the pocket to the front bodice at the pattern markings.

7.5 Topstitch approximately ⅛ inch from the folded edges down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side of the pocket.

Make sure to leave the top edge of your pocket open.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 for the other pocket.

STEP 8 – Hem

FIT CHECK – Try your bathrobe on and check you are happy with the sleeve and robe length. Make any required length adjustments, then continue.

8.1 Turn the hem under ½ inch towards the wrong side and press.

OPTIONAL – Serge along the bottom raw edge of the robe to finish.

8.2 Stitch along the hem approximately ⅜ inch from the folded edge, using a stretch stitch or twin needle.

8.3 Refold the sleeves’ memory hem that you made in step 3.3 and pin in place.

8.4 Stitch along the hem approximately ⅜ inch from the folded edge using a stretch stitch or twin needle.

Repeat steps 8.3 and 8.4 for the other sleeve.

STEP 9 – Belt

9.1 Right sides together, pin the belts short edge to short edge.

9.2 Serge or stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

If you have stitched the seams, press them open.

9.3 Fold the belt in half, right sides together, matching up the long raw edges and pin.

9.4 Using a ½ inch seam allowance, sew all the way around the raw edges, leaving a 2-inch gap in one of the long sides for turning.

9.5 Clip the corners to reduce bulk. If you haven’t done this before, cut straight across the corner, close to but not touching the stitching.

Turn the belt loop right way out.

If you want a flat loop, press the tube. Either way, roll the seam under between your fingers.

At the open 2-inch gap, fold the raw edges in, meeting the sewn seam allowance, to the inside of the belt. Press. You will use the creases of these folds to guide you as you stitch this gap closed in the next step.

9.6 Dependent on your fabric choice, you can either close the 2-inch gap by top stitching all the way around the belt, or by hand stitching.

If you wish to topstitch stitch around the belt close the folded edge, catching the seam allowance when sewing over the 2-inch gap. Press the belt if needed.

Thread your finished belt through the belt loops and you are finished!

If you are using a thick material or you prefer to hand stitch, we going to use a slip stitch ladder stitch to close the gap. This type of stitch allows you to close the belt without seeing any stitching on the inside or outside of the belt.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through one of the folded seams, from inside to outside (front), pulling the thread tail completely through. Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside of the belt.

9.7 Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam crease to create a stitch that is between ⅛ - ¼ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

9.8 Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

9.9 To end off create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.

Thread your belt through the belt loops and you’re finished.

Congratulations, your Bathrobe is done. Enjoy! ♥

______

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