Germany Portrait of a fascinating country AT THE HEART OF

2 | GERMANY The great poet and illustrator Wilhelm Busch was right when he poked fun at all there are so many to be discovered in Germany. The next few pages pay hom- GERMANY those who had a yearning for far-away lands. “It’s also nice elsewhere, here I am age to the overwhelming beauties extending between the and the anyway”, he wrote, quite as if this book had inspired him to write in verse. Here , between Friesland and the Fichtelgebirge, between Lusatia and the Palati- AT THE HEART OF EUROPE is the perfect proof that you need not venture far to find a world of wonders, for nate , between ’s and ’s Inner Alster Lake.

2 | GERMANY GERMANY | 3 Greetsiel is a district in the town of Krummhörn in East Friesland. And while the region may be able to boast very many beautiful villages, Greetsiel is recognizable from afar by its twin mills.

4 | GERMANY Greetsiel is a district in the town of Krummhörn in East Friesland. And while the region may be able to boast Germany is also a seafaring nation, with proud harbour towns packed with impressive ships, as for example very many beautiful villages, Greetsiel is recognizable from afar by its twin mills. Bremerhaven, which once was the home base of a world-class shipping company: the Norddeutscher Lloyd.

4 | GERMANY GERMANY | 5 Germany is a land of knights and , and a particularly fine example is the Imperial of Cochem, sitting enthroned high above the town of the same name.

10 | GERMANY Germany is a land of knights and castles, and a particularly fine example is the Imperial Castle of Cochem, One of the best-known sights, famous not only in Germany but in the entire world, is Neuschwanstein Cas- sitting enthroned high above the town of the same name. tle, the spectacular legacy of ’s unhappy fairytale King Ludwig II.

10 | GERMANY GERMANY | 11 ABOUT THIS BOOK If you think that Germany has no glamorous seaside towns like Nice or Cannes, like San Remo or San Se- bastián, you haven’t been to Sellin. The resorts on the Baltic Sea need not shy away from comparison.

When you go on a journey through Ger- of the incredible diversity that is to be few dozen miles in Germany and you’ll very quickly you’ll understand that to ex- many, whether in photographs or in discovered in this country between the encounter a change in landscape, ar- perience the whole wealth of beauty reality, you will at first be amazed and coasts in the north and the mountains chitecture and local dialect. There is no spots in Germany you’ll need a lot of soon spellbound as you become aware in the south. You need only travel for a better remedy against boredom. And time.

12 | GERMANY ZU DIESEM BUCH ABOUT THIS BOOK If you think that Germany has no glamorous seaside towns like Nice or Cannes, like San Remo or San Se- Emperors and kings took their breaks at the seaside, and in their wake followed not only rich and beautiful bastián, you haven’t been to Sellin. The resorts on the Baltic Sea need not shy away from comparison. commoners, but also painters, poets and most of all bon-vivants.

When you go on a journey through Ger- of the incredible diversity that is to be few dozen miles in Germany and you’ll very quickly you’ll understand that to ex- With this book, however, you can at least into the country’s every nook and cran- magnificent towns and cities that have themselves that you would want to make many, whether in photographs or in discovered in this country between the encounter a change in landscape, ar- perience the whole wealth of beauty marvel and dream of Germany’s gran- ny, encountering fantastic sights all along been turned into veritable treasure chests your way there straightaway. All this you reality, you will at first be amazed and coasts in the north and the mountains chitecture and local dialect. There is no spots in Germany you’ll need a lot of deur and diversity. This photographic the way – wild, untouched landscapes by historical events; and remote and en- will find in this book’s pages: a country of soon spellbound as you become aware in the south. You need only travel for a better remedy against boredom. And time. volume takes its readers on a voyage that have resisted all human intervention; chanted areas, so much at peace within marvels, like a fantastic goodie bag.

12 | GERMANY GERMANY | 13 CONTENTS Over the course of time, Germany has undergone many metamorphoses. And its industries were similarly affected. Yet they have made the most of structural change and found new destinies.

GERMANY’S NORTH Angeln region 32 HAMBURG BREMEN Emden 68 Schleswig 34 Hamburg 42 Bremen 56 Papenburg 69 SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN The Vikings 35 Hamburg, Old Town and New Town 44 Bremen, Old Town 58 Lüneburg Heath 70 Helgoland 24 Kiel Week 36 Hamburg, St Pauli 46 Bremerhaven 60 Lüneburg 71 Sylt 26 Lübeck 38 Hamburg, St Pauli Piers and Port 48 Celle 72 Föhr, Amrum, Pellworm 28 Holstein 40 Hamburg, City of Culture 50 LOWER 74 Halligen 29 Ratzeburg 41 Hamburg, 52 Between and 62 Hannover 76 Schleswig-Holstein Hamburg, HafenCity 54 Eastern Friesland 64 78 National Park 30 Hamburg, Port 55 East Frisian Islands 66 Braunschweig 80

14 | GERMANY CONTENTS CONTENTS Over the course of time, Germany has undergone many metamorphoses. And its industries were similarly Today, the places where once iron and steel were made, have preserved the heritage of an industrial past, affected. Yet they have made the most of structural change and found new destinies. and the old plants have also been turned into venues for art and culture.

GERMANY’S NORTH Angeln region 32 HAMBURG BREMEN Emden 68 Wolfenbüttel 82 SAXONY-ANHALT () 104 Fischland-Darss-Zingst 112 Schleswig 34 Hamburg 42 Bremen 56 Papenburg 69 Wolfsburg, Autostadt 84 and Harz Foreland 94 Naumburg (Saale) 105 114 Rheinsberg 124 SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN The Vikings 35 Hamburg, Old Town and New Town 44 Bremen, Old Town 58 Lüneburg Heath 70 Königslutter 86 96 115 126 Helgoland 24 Kiel Week 36 Hamburg, St Pauli 46 Bremerhaven 60 Lüneburg 71 Bückeburg 87 Wernigerode 97 -VORPOMMERN Rügen, National Park 116 Lower National Park 128 Sylt 26 Lübeck 38 Hamburg, St Pauli Piers and Port 48 Celle 72 88 Magdeburg 98 Schwerin 106 Rügen, Seaside resorts 118 Neuzelle Monastery 130 Föhr, Amrum, Pellworm 28 Holstein Switzerland 40 Hamburg, City of Culture 50 Wendland 74 90 Lutherstadt 99 Lake Schaalsee 108 , Kaiserbäder 119 132 Halligen 29 Ratzeburg 41 Hamburg, Speicherstadt 52 Between Elbe and Weser 62 Hannover 76 92 100 109 Mecklenburg Switzerland 120 Sanssouci Palace and Park 134 Schleswig-Holstein Wadden Sea Hamburg, HafenCity 54 Eastern Friesland 64 Hildesheim 78 Wörlitz 101 Rostock and Warnemünde 110 Mecklenburg Lake District 121 136 National Park 30 Hamburg, Port 55 East Frisian Islands 66 Braunschweig 80 Lutherstadt 102 Bad Doberan 111 Müritz National Park 122

14 | GERMANY GERMANY | 15 CONTENTS The Roman Empire has also left its traces in Germany, and these are still visible today. Thus, for example, the city of on the was founded by the Emperor Marcus Aurelius in AD 179.

BERLIN Berlin, Art City 152 CENTRAL GERMANY Essen 167 Aachen, Cathedral 180 Berlin 138 Berlin, Theatre City 153 Düsseldorf 168 Altenberg Abbey 182 Berlin, Brandenburg Gate 140 Berlin, Kurfürstendamm 154 NORTH -WESTPHALIA Cologne 170 Sauerland 183 Berlin, Gendarmenmarkt 142 Berlin, Charlottenburg Palace 155 Münster 158 Cologne, Cathedral 172 Berlin, Museum Island 144 Münster, Water palaces 159 Cologne, Romanesque churches 174 Berlin, Government District 146 Ruhr Region, “ and steel” 160 Cologne, Museums 175 The Wall 148 Dortmund 162 Brühl 176 Berlin, East Side Gallery 149 Ruhr Region, Industrial monuments 164 Bonn 177 Berlin, Potsdamer Platz 150 Duisburg 166 Brown gold 178

16 | GERMANY CONTENTS CONTENTS The Roman Empire has also left its traces in Germany, and these are still visible today. Thus, for example, And Regensburg has since made use of its long history and become one of Germany’s most beautiful cities. the city of Regensburg on the Danube was founded by the Emperor Marcus Aurelius in AD 179. Its Old Town alone guards a treasure of well over 1,000 listed buildings.

BERLIN Berlin, Art City 152 CENTRAL GERMANY Essen 167 Aachen, Cathedral 180 RHINELAND- Speyer, Cathedral 194 Museums in Frankfurt 214 Berlin 138 Berlin, Theatre City 153 Düsseldorf 168 Altenberg Abbey 182 184 195 202 Wiesbaden 216 220 Berlin, Brandenburg Gate 140 Berlin, Kurfürstendamm 154 NORTH RHINE-WESTPHALIA Cologne 170 Sauerland 183 Castle 185 Kassel – City of Art, “documenta” 204 Darmstadt, Mathildenhöhe 217 221 Berlin, Gendarmenmarkt 142 Berlin, Charlottenburg Palace 155 Münster 158 Cologne, Cathedral 172 Valley 186 Kassel, Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe 205 Eberbach Abbey 218 222 Berlin, Museum Island 144 Münster, Water palaces 159 Cologne, Romanesque churches 174 188 Saar Region 196 Marburg 206 Lorsch 219 224 Berlin, Government District 146 Ruhr Region, “Coal and steel” 160 Cologne, Museums 175 Middle Rhine, Saarbrücken 197 Fulda 207 226 The Wall 148 Dortmund 162 Brühl 176 St Goarshausen and Lorelei 190 Völklingen Ironworks 198 Limburg 208 Weimar Classicism 228 Berlin, East Side Gallery 149 Ruhr Region, Industrial monuments 164 Bonn 177 Mainz 192 The Bliesgau 200 Frankfurt 210 Berlin, Potsdamer Platz 150 Duisburg 166 Brown gold 178 Worms, Cathedral 193 Frankfurt, Römerberg 212

16 | GERMANY GERMANY | 17 CONTENTS When overseas visitors to Germany are confronted with testimonies of history like the moated castle of Ir- melshausen, their spontaneous first question tends to be: Is all this for real? Assuredly it is.

SAXONY , Frauenkirche 242 GERMANY’S SOUTH Breisgau Stuttgart, New Palace 230 Moritzburg 244 and Markgräfler Land 261 and Schlossplatz 272 234 246 BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG im Breisgau 262 Stuttgart, City Library 274 Dresden 236 Bad Muskau 248 Heidelberg 254 263 Stuttgart, Weissenhof 275 Dresden, Semper Opera Görlitz 249 Rastatt 256 Northern and Stuttgart, City of Cars 276 and Theater Square 238 Mountains 250 Bruchsal 257 Central 264 Swabian Alps 278 Dresden, Royal Palace Upper Lusatian Heath and Karlsruhe 258 Southern Black Forest 266 Upper Danube Nature Park 279 and Cathedral 239 Pond Landscape 251 Baden-Baden 259 Ludwigsburg 268 The Hegau 280 Dresden, 240 The Ortenau 260 Stuttgart 270 281

18 | GERMANY CONTENTS CONTENTS When overseas visitors to Germany are confronted with testimonies of history like the moated castle of Ir- For Germans, the forest is much more than merely a large number of trees. It is a soulful place of legends melshausen, their spontaneous first question tends to be: Is all this for real? Assuredly it is. and longings – like the which is one of the most impressive in the country.

SAXONY Dresden, Frauenkirche 242 GERMANY’S SOUTH Breisgau Stuttgart, New Palace 282 BAVARIA , Cathedral and Eichstätt 313 Passau, St Stephen’s 326 Leipzig 230 Moritzburg 244 and Markgräfler Land 261 and Schlossplatz 272 Birnau 283 Aschaffenburg 288 Alte Hofhaltung 299 Rothenburg ob der Tauber 314 Dillingen 328 Meissen 234 Saxon Switzerland 246 BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG Freiburg im Breisgau 262 Stuttgart, City Library 274 Ulm 284 Bavarian Nature Park 289 Bamberg, New Residence 300 Regensburg 316 Bavarian Lake Constance 330 Dresden 236 Bad Muskau 248 Heidelberg 254 Maulbronn Monastery 263 Stuttgart, Weissenhof 275 Wiblingen Monastery 285 Middle Valley 290 302 Dinkelsbühl 318 Upper Allgäu 332 Dresden, Semper Opera Görlitz 249 Rastatt 256 Northern and Stuttgart, City of Cars 276 Monasteries and churches Lower Main Valley 291 Wagner’s Bayreuth 304 Northern 319 334 and Theater Square 238 250 Bruchsal 257 Central Black Forest 264 Swabian Alps 278 in Upper Swabia 286 Würzburg 292 306 , Hall of Liberation 320 336 Dresden, Royal Palace Upper Lusatian Heath and Karlsruhe 258 Southern Black Forest 266 Upper Danube Nature Park 279 Würzburg, Residence 294 Nuremberg 308 Weltenburg Abbey 321 Munich 338 and Cathedral 239 Pond Landscape 251 Baden-Baden 259 Ludwigsburg 268 The Hegau 280 Franconian Rhön Region 296 Nürnberg, Old Town and Castle 310 Bavarian Forest National Park 322 Munich, Residence 340 Dresden, Zwinger 240 The Ortenau 260 Stuttgart 270 Lake Constance 281 Bamberg 298 Altmühl Valley Nature Park 312 Passau 324 Munich, City of Culture 342

18 | GERMANY GERMANY | 19 CONTENTS A foretaste of all the splendour of Paradise is what churches were once meant to present for the faithful. And during the period, places of worship like Ebrach Abbey were particularly lavishly adorned.

Munich, Nymphenburg Palace 344 353 368 Index 374 Oktoberfest 345 Oberammergau Passion Play 354 Berchtesgadener Land 370 Photo credits, Imprint 376 Munich, BMW World 346 Abbey 356 Berchtesgaden National Park 372 München, Allianz Arena 347 357 Fünfseenland 348 Mountains 358 Pfaffenwinkel 350 Mountains 362 351 Mangfall Mountains 363 Alps and 364 Ammer Valley 352 Lake Chiemsee 366

20 | GERMANY CONTENTS CONTENTS A foretaste of all the splendour of Paradise is what churches were once meant to present for the faithful. And Monasteries have always been places of the faith and the spirit. This is why they were often equipped with during the baroque period, places of worship like Ebrach Abbey were particularly lavishly adorned. grand libraries – one of the most amazing can be found in the Lower Bavarian Benedictine Abbey of Metten.

Munich, Nymphenburg Palace 344 Oberammergau 353 Herrenchiemsee 368 Index 374 Oktoberfest 345 Oberammergau Passion Play 354 Berchtesgadener Land 370 Photo credits, Imprint 376 Munich, BMW World 346 356 Berchtesgaden National Park 372 München, Allianz Arena 347 Linderhof Palace 357 Fünfseenland 348 Wetterstein Mountains 358 Pfaffenwinkel 350 Karwendel Mountains 362 Wieskirche 351 Mangfall Mountains 363 and Chiemgau Alps 364 Ammer Valley 352 Lake Chiemsee 366

20 | GERMANY GERMANY | 21