The : a breed to be exported

Adriatic New Marcbal Neighbourhood Programme Interreg IIIA Adriatic Crossborder Project Marcbal Project

The development of know-how networks between the two sides of sector services are the premises on which the technology of the Marchigiana cattle breed The project involves six Italian partners from the Adriatic for the modernization of the primary productive structure Marcbal project is based, promoted by the in the Eastern Balkans (registry, genetic, three Adriatic Regions (Marche, and and the innovation of the provided services and technology is an PF Pesca e Zootechnia of the Marche Region research and veterinary) by the spreading of Friuli Venezia Giulia) and two partners from innovative challenge given the existent differences in the real and within the Adriatic New Neighbourhood Pro- the good practices of the Marchigiana cattle the Eastern Balkans (Albania and Bosnia perceived quality production in the two areas and bearing in mind gramme INTERREG/CARDS/ PHARE. breeding and the methods to improve the Herzegovina) forming a multidisciplinary the difficulties arising due to the existent differences in the economic, zootechnological agricultural productions. partnership that includes public entities administrative and juridical systems of the Italian Adriatic Region With the involvement of public and private and advanced education structures of the (IAR) and the Eastern Adriatic Countries (EAC). Promoting the bodies, the project aims at reinforcing the The project strategies include surveying, sector at issue. sustainable development of the rural development, the strengthe- services promoting new techniques in com- data analysis and, eventually, the exchange ning of the public and private assistance structure and the primary pany management, new products and/or of know-how related to the defined survey productive technologies and new cultural areas: methods in the companies operating in the - Herbaceous cultivations, techniques and agriculture sector, by improving the quality productions of sustainable breeding systems in the cattle meat sector. With the - Reproduction methodologies and tech- exchange of know-how between the partners niques of the two sides of the Adriatic, the project - Food and veterinary safety aims at contributing towards the formation - Administrative managements and services of an administrative system in quality zoo- to enterprises

  The Marchigiana Cattle Breed: historical outline

The bos taurus asiaticus, ancestor of the Marchigiana breed, first In the early XIX century the number of produced cattle with strong dynamic capa- refore, in 1931 the Herd Book was set up The ANABIC, the national association which appeared on the Italian peninsula, together with men and armies, cattle on the farm increased and it began cities and with a good attitude towards meat to specify the organisational aspect of the aims at selecting, improving, planning and migrated from the ancient Podolia, an extended region between to be thought of as a necessary investment. production, from which the significantly selection which allowed the production of valorising Italian meat breeds abroad, was Galizia and Ukraine, at the time of the renowned Lombard leader However, the production of meat was given polymorphic “population breed” derived. rustic animals, resistant and characterised set up in 1966. Agilulfo during the barbarian invasions of the VI century. very little importance and it was limited to by a quick growth. “boiling meat”. In 1900, when the economic conditions of This cattle characterised by a big neck, long and pointed horns, In fact, the Podolica cattle had a very slow the working class improved, there was an On 14th July 1959, the Provincial Breeders a grey or yellowish cast, black eyelids, switch of tail, horns and body development and was poor meat increase in demand for meat and a growing Association of Ancona, Ascoli and Mace- nails, indigenous to the Asiatic steppe, can be considered the producer due to scarce fattening possibi- awareness about the problem of specializa- rata approved the statute that articulates ancestor of today’s Marchigiana breed, which is indeed called lities. The change from the double use of tion (meat or work) of the local cattle that in the constitution of A.N.A.B.R.M (National the breed of the Podolica stock. the breed for work-meat, to the specificity 1928 amounted to 374,324 animals. Association of the Marchigiana Cattle Breed However, the real history of the Marchigiana breed starts in1800, of the breed as meat producer proceeds With the Congress of Fermo in 1928, deci- Breeders). Therefore, the Marchigiana is intertwined with complex historical-economic events of its native hand in hand with the economic and social sions were taken to suspend the introduc- known as “the bovine cattle breed with area, the Marche, dominated by the “farm agreement” known as changes of the region. In order to improve tion of the and the the best qualities to be applied even in the métayage. the attitude towards meat production, at the bulls to proceed with the “morpho-functional areas that are most significantly marked, Before 1800, the Podolica cattle became the workforce used for end of 1800 the local cattle was crossbred genotype” selection, in order to obtain cattle in negative terms, with our environmental the tillage of lands and cultivation. It was the ploughing ox rented first with Valdichiana bulls and, later, with the with its own particular features, characte- conditions.” by the owner of the grounds to the farmer. improver Romagnola bulls. This selection rized by a “unity of blood and type”. The-

  The Marchigiana in the World

The breed is now bred in the Marche, in Abruzzo, , Ba- silicata, Lazio, Sicilia and : in Italy, more than 46,000 are registered in the Herd Book.

In 1956 the Marchigiana was introduced for the first time inBrazil . However, a more consistent exportation of animals to European and Non-communitarian Countries has taken place only as from the ‘70s that has gained favour with breeders due to its great productive adaptability and performance.

As from 1998 the meat of the Marchigiana cattle breed, between 12 and 24 months, is among the P.G.I. quality brand “White Bul- lock of the Central Apennines”, regulated by specific production measures.

  Genetic improvement and selection: objectives and tools

The selection of the Marchigiana cattle breed aims at: are placed in a performance shed, which The best male reproducers are used, ac- will host them until the age of one, during cording to programmed breeding plans, for The Herd Book • The production of animals with a marked ability to produce which various inspections and zoometric the best cows with high genetic index. meat, in terms of growth speed, precocity and slaughtering surveying are carried out. The calves born from this breeding will • is a selection tool which aims for genetic preservation and and skinning outcome, safeguarding its capacity to adapt to have the priority to enter the Genetic Centre improvement of meat breeds; the breeding systems; The collected data is then analysed with for a new Performance test cycle (source • The improvement of maternal abilities and the reproductive the BLUP Animal model with which the ANABIC). • gathers, in databases, sets of personal, genealogical, morpho- efficiency features such as the first delivery and the interval two indices, Growth and Muscularity, are logical, productive and reproductive data of the cattle being between deliveries in order to obtain the highest number of obtained to form the Bull Selection Index chosen; calves per cow a year. that expresses the bull’s capacity to pro- duce muscular tissue and to provide high • is regulated by specific disciplinary measures approved by the The universally selected method adopted is the performance meat outcomes. Only the best 30% of the ministry of agricultural policies. test which measures the features of the characteristics for tested bulls are assigned to Artificial In- which the animals to be indexed are selected. semination subject to quali-quanititative The performance tests for the Marchigiana breed are submitted checking of seminal material. The Genetic by the Genetic Centre of the A.N.A.B.I.C on animals purposely Index of Morphology of the factoring-cow selected from the population. Once submitted to serological tests, was introduced in 2001, derived from the the animals then enter a quarantine and an adaptation phase at the morphological data regarding muscularity, end of which there is a 24 week test. During this period the calves size, thinness and limbs of the heifers.

  Evolution and selection

Presently, the adult bovine can reach a centuated development of muscle mass weight of 12-15 quintals, the female can that are important in producing noble cuts reach 7-9 quintals. of beef. The coat is white, shades of grey in the front part of the body may also be seen; The slaughtering outcome is about 63% black pigmentation that varies in intensity reaching up to 67%. can be also seen on the skin, mucosae oris The average daily growth can reach 2 kg. and natural apertures. The skin is fine in quality, easy to lift and soft, features that In the last ten years the Marchigiana breed benefit commercial value of the animal for has shown an increase of 100g/day in slaughter and perform a thermoregulatory ADG both in the performance and the function. The head is light with a straight pre-performance. profile and a flat, light and expressive fo- reheads; the eyes are lively and alert. The muscularity increased from 355 to 387 The back is long, broad and with marked points with an average increase of 3 units muscle development, demonstrating a per year. “double convexity” due to the longissimus The weight at 356 days has an immediate dorsi which supplies cuts rich in muscle increase of about 40 kg, exceeding the tissue. Thigh and buttocks present an ac- 550 kg.

10 11 Breeding: six good reasons to choose it

The breeding of the Marchigiana breed, in the near future, may of the Marchigiana must be considered as In this breeding system it is necessary to accomplish its multiple productive, environ- become a strength for the traditional breeding areas as well as a valid opportunity for meat production and prepare health inspection programmes for mental, landscape and protective functions the new ones since they have certain advantages: for crossbreeding, in territorial areas that the herd, use selected breeders and carry if technically well managed. Only rational can be defined as “marginal”. out functional inspections. grazing plans can ensure the good feeding • the genetic type is strongly suitable for difficult environmental As regards reproductive efficiency, in the of the animals (samples and quality), the conditions; semi-breeding typology, the breed shows The cow-calf line is a tool for the valorisa- maintenance or the improvement of forage • high self-management capacities without the fundamental a decrease in the interval between the deli- tion of zootechnology in the mountain areas quality, its completeness, the high vegetal interventions of the breeders; veries and an improvement in the capacity to minimize herd management costs in order and animal biodiversity and the preservation • low-cost environment friendly operator, a very useful figure mainly to wean. to obtain a weaned calf per cow per year, of an open and exploitable space. in those areas of naturalistic and/or landscape interests;  to produce good quality calves in terms of • germoplasma reserve of considerable value; weight, structure and health state. • production of food with very high qualitative value; • source for entrepreneurial activity opportunities in “marginal” Breeding according to the cow-calf line areas, for the product processing and marketing. allows the exploitation of cultivated and na- tural grazing resources creating financial In fact: rusticity, precocity, harmony in shape and adaptability advantages in terms of herd feeding costs are the features that allow this breed to be subjugated to the which will be linked to the necessity to inte- breeding and the semi-breeding system maintaining very good grate any nutritional deficit in the ration eaten productive and reproductive performance. Therefore, the breeding away when grazing. Grazing can only fully

12 13 Meat production and quality

The Marchigiana cattle breed reaches the ideal weight at 15-16 Therefore, the qualitative merits of these safety for the consumer. In recent years the P.G.I Bullock of the Central Apennines months, with outcomes up to 67% given the thinness of the skeletal meats are first and foremost linked to the the Communitarian legislative framework provides 50% of Zinc and 16% of Iron of structure and the skin which gives a better slaughtering outcome. place and a long selection activity which was very little adaptable to the changes that the daily requisites of an adult man (Table The Marchigiana beef reaches the optimal intramuscular fat rate lasts years and also the semi-grazing bree- took place in Europe and globally, which 1, page 16). for the slaughtering when he is 18-24 months old. ding system and the type of feeding which led to the necessity to replace regulations mainly consists of wild vegetable essences no. 2081/92 and 2082/92 with EC Reg. Meat and health which give a unique flavour to the meat. no.509/2006 and 510/2006. In recent years, the consumer’s attention towards safer and healthier Besides providing rigid indications about feeding has generated an increase in quality meat consumption Quality certification breeding, the measures define the entire and a consistent revaluation of the rustic breeds which, being From 1998 the meat of the Marchigia- productive process at every phase. more suitable for grazing, have meat with a certain qualitative na breed became one of the first quality importance. The Marchigiana breed is part of those native breeds brands for fresh bovine meats approved Nutritional quality with high prestige which, in the light of their versatility, may have a by the European Community for Italy: the Bovine meat has low lipid content (more more extensive breeding system and productions with interesting P.G.I. (Protected Geografic Identification) unsaturated fats than saturate ones) and organoleptic features, appreciated both in Italy and abroad. “White Bullock of the Central Apennines”. an important sources of proteins, minerals The quality of bovine meat is effected by exogenous (feeding, The reference laws were initially the EEC (especially Zinc and Iron) and group B environment, post-slaughtering interventions) and biological regulations n.2081/92 and 2082/92 which vitamins. (age at slaughtering, localization and anatomic functionality of establish the production measures in order Studies carried out at the University of Te- the muscle, sex and genetic type) factors. to guarantee maximum quality and food ramo have shown that 100 g of meat from

14 15 The privilege of the PGI bullock is also low Hygienic quality fat and cholesterol content. It is based on the concept of traceability of (Table 1: Contents of 100 g of PGI bovine meat) With the breeding techniques that involve the animal and meat origin in every produc- only feeding with forage from typical Central tion and selling phase and the labelling. The % Average Values Regulatory Measures RDA needs of 100 g of meat Apennine meadows and grass cultivations, production plants (breeding, slaughterhou- the meats are submitted to analyses that Woman Man ses and selling points) must have all the highlight the good anti-oxidizing properties requisites according to the communitarian Water 75,4 n.p 36% 42% which allow a better preservation of essential law regarding environment protection and Proteins 22,9 >20 acidic fats that change into the organism high quality production. Lipids 1,9 <3 and which are necessary for the brain, the gonads, the retina and are opposers for the Ashes 1,1 <2 onset of cardiovascular diseases. Zinc(mg/100) 4,09 n.p. 50% 60% Iron(mg/100) 1,63 n.p. 16% 9% Technological and organoleptic quality Cholesterol (mg/100) 45 <50 The meat of the Marchigiana is rosy in co- lour, fine-grained and with the right degree Unsaturated/saturates 1,07 >1 of fat infiltration.

16 17 Four seasons with the Marchigiana The Fiorentina... a recipe for every season always

Autumn Winter Spring Summer Beefsteak with fillet or the sirloin and the T-bone taken Roast beef with Pore Mushrooms Beef with walnuts Stew with artichokes Cold rump in green sauce from the sirloin of the White Bullock of the Central Apennines of 16 to 24 months of age, the Fiorentina is 1 kg of flank in one whole piece a spoonful of chopped parsley 1 kg of flatiron steak of beef half lemon juice 1 kg of sottofesa 2 celery leaves 800 g rump of tender beef a true “ritual” of the Italian cuisine. Its thickness varies extra virgin olive oil salt, pepper extra virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove dry white wine 2 garlic cloves 1 l of water from 6 to 8 cm, its weight from 900g to 2kg. 2 cloves of garlic smashed a glass of white wine a ladle of soup 20 walnuts 10 cleaned artichokes parsley, oil, salt and 1 l of vinegar 600 g of pore mushrooms 4 spoonfuls of grated Parmesan 1 small chopped onion 1 glass of marsala chopped in quarters pepper Sauce Preparation in thick slices 50 g breadcrumbs 2 onions 100 g parsley leaves It is necessary to have an ardent grill, without flame, 25 g capers the steak needs 6 minutes of cooking on every side Preparation Preparation Preparation half fresh small onion and 15 minutes to rest vertically on the bone which Tie the meat and seal it with very hot oil. Heat some oil and the garlic in a low Prepare the meat for cooking, tie it and seal it in a Marinate the meat in the wine with half of the artichokes, extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper acts as a heat conductor to keep it warm and to ensure saucepan, add the mushrooms, cook for 5 minutes, add pepper and salt, add the small saucepan with some oil and then soak it with the onions, the celery and the garlic for about 8 hours. appropriate cooking. parsley and remove the garlic. one ladle of soup. Trickle the meat, dry it, tie it, seal it carefully with hot Preparation Transfer the meat, draining it from the sealing fat, to the saucepan with the mu- Stir the onion, add the breadcrumbs which have been oil, add salt, mix the marinade with the vegetables and Marinated the rump for 4 hours in equal parts of water shrooms and cook for 5 minutes. previously mixed with the lemon juice and squeezed, cook on a low flame for about 3 hours. and vinegar, remove the meat, bring the water and Isolate the meat from the cooking base by putting a grid on the bottom of the salt, pepper and garlic. Soak the mixture with marasala, Whisk the marinade, adjust it with salt and place it on a vinegar to boil and put the tender beef in it for an hour, saucepan. Cover and let it rest for at least 10 minutes. Untie the meat, cut slices mix and pour it on the meat. flame to reduce it. In the meantime cook the remaining let the meat cool in the cooking liquid. of about 1cm and a half thick, place it on a hot tray and cover every slice with Add the soup, cook on a low flame for about 2 hours. artichokes in oil and parsley. For the sauce: whisk all the ingredients. Serve the mushrooms, serve the slices of roast beef sprinkled with grated Parmesan and Serve sliced. Serve the meat on a hot plate, surrounded by the ar- sliced meat with the sauce after savouring the dish sprinkle with the filtered cooking base. tichokes and sprinkled with the sauce. for about 1 hour. 18 19 Marche Region Polytechnic University of Marche Euromediterranea Abruzzo Region University of Teramo University of Udine PF Pesca e Zootecnia Faculty of Agriculture Social Promotion Association Department of Department of Department of Environmental Food Sciences Animal Sciences Lead Partner of Marcbal Project and Crop Science Via Tiziano, 44 60125 Ancona tel +39 071 8063738 fax +39 071 8063055

www.regione.marche.it .it [email protected] Ministry of Agriculture, Food and University of Agriculture University of Sarajevo Consumer Protection Tirana, Albania Faculty of Agriculture Tirana, Albania Bosnia and Herzegovina capolinea

The initiative has been realized with the financial support of the European Regional Development Fund in the Sviluppo Marche SpA-Società Unipersonale framework of Adriatic New Neighbourhood Programme Interreg IIIA Adriatic Crossborder. Territory and Rural Development Area Via Martiri delle Resistenza, 24 Special Thanks to: Bibliography and sources: 60125 Ancona ANABIC ANABIC-“The Marchigiana breed”, 2000 tel +39 071 289941 fax +39 071 28994235 APA in Marche Region ANABIC- “4th World Italian Beef Cattle Congress”, www.svimspa.it ARA in Abruzzo Region 29th April-1st May 2005 [email protected] Consorzio Produttori “I Quaderni della Carne” Consorzio di Tutela “Vitellone Carne Bovina Pregiata delle Razze Italiane Bianco dell’Appennino Centrale” in collaboration with Azienda Agraria Biologica “Arca Felice” “Scuola di Cucina di Susanna Baldi”