db. fop FOUNDED BY JAN AND HERB CONN

NEWS OF THE P.A.T.C. SECTION Volume 42 Number 7 July 1988

CARDEROCK CONSERVATION and greatly appreciated. If you PROJECT NW 22, 1988 have any questions, suggestions, or equipment donations please We jack hammered into call! I'll be out of town for a manageable sizes the 30+ tons of few days; if I'm not around, call rock left over from previous work Stuart Pregnall (202-543-3988). efforts, and dumped it over the Harold Goldstein, Project top of the cliff. Due to high Coordinator water little more could be done, 202-966-9081 but that was plenty! Many thanks to Dale Yohn and McLean Rental for the generous use of the NEW RIVER GORGE equipment and for Dale's MAY 28-30 incredible labors on our behalf. Guess where Karen and I Many thanks to Martha Hale were? for brownies, Jeanette Helfrich Saturday morning was for food, and Dave Atkinson for perfect,and we convened at the refreshment. And of course the Bridge Buttress where Rick many others who came to help: Tom Thompson had spied yet another Isaacson, Ahmet Zeytinci, Tom new line. AScending the face Russell, Hugh Brown, Josh Brown, just left of the Mayfly, Strata- John Gregory, Jerry Gerstein, gem (5.12a/b***) is perhaps the Paul Torelli, Matt Lavington, nicest of the Bridge 5.12's yet. Stuart Pregnall, the Mighty Mike Take six quick draws and enjoy! Chaney, Michael Mergi, Harold After that, we moved downstream Goldstein, Rich Cunningham, Donn to the Maranatha Wall, where Carl Holtzer, Rodger Hara, Stuart Samples led his new Are You Rosenthal, Greg Marich, Rich Asparagus? (5.11a, **). While Cady, Art Karp, Ed Cummings, R. Carl was on that, Karen girded up Krishnam, Charlie Dorian, Marci for a lead of Little Head Logic Logan and any one else who was (5.12a,**) just to the left. inadvertently missed. Unfortunately, the steeply We plan to have another work overhanging 5.10c start was not trip on June 26th, and yet to her liking, and I ended up another on July 10th. We will be savoring the face above on the placing rocks in the river and sharp end. By this time, Rich working on the retaining walls Cunningham had joined us, and he there, as well as constructing a followed us on LHL and then led new foot bridge below Jan's Face. the second ascent of Are You These will be very labor Asparagus? with me seconding, intensive days, as usual. Your confirming its grade and quality. participation for all of part of Rick then led Ledge Lips (5.11b, any of these days will be needed **), which is in the guide as

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Improper Moves. Originally rated it with such skill and 5.10a as a top rope, Ledge Lips concentration it seemed less is solid 5.111 Rick questions serious. The spectators, whether the people who reported however, were all breathless it as an ascent actually did that watching it. Nobody but Rick route. could follow (I could do all the Karen motored back to D.C. moves but one, and unless I grow Sunday,leaving me to team up with about two inches, I'll never be Rich and the gang. We all headed able to do it!) Rich tangled down to Bubba (small wonder) to with Tongulation (5.11d, ***), finish off Jesus Wept. While finally cruising it after getting Eric Horst was flashing it, Rich a little tongue-tied at the start was leading Shear Strength (but then again, even (5.11c,***) a tremendously backed off the hard part!). overhanging dihedral with That just about killed the technical stemming and laybacks. weekend for us. Rich got the Upon discovering that the rappel names of some good ice climbing station was a single bolt, we areas from Rick Mix of PA, and we quickly decided to take care of met a bunch of Bellefonte Quarry that. Rich left the ropes in locals who had fabulous pictures place so I could be fresh for a of their little quarry. A MUST try on Jesus Wept, which I got location for a trip in the near after a couple of falls. It's future. We also discovered a few 5.12c/d, ***, and a really fine other lines, some of which will climb. Rich managed to dog it go soon! out, too, quite an Stuart Pregnall accomplishment, and an eye opener. Rich and I went back and I cleaned his gear off of Shear TRIP REPORTS Energy, then hauled up the INTERMEDIATE LEAD TRAINING (whisper) drill and bosched in SHAWANGUNKS another bolt for the rap station. MAY 28-30, 1988 We then joined the gang down at the Ames Wall, where everyone was A great weekend of climbing! inspecting new routes. We spied Lots of sunshine and not overly one for ourselves and cleaned it crowded--what more could you ask? off for the next day. Last minute cancellations Monday, we fired off Chicks cut our student count in half-- in the Woods (5.11a,**), named i.e., two--much to the delight of for the little bird learning to extra instructors. Finding fly who hopped across the path themselves off the hook, they all morning long (and for the quickly disappeared to work on many beautiful women climbing their favorite climbs--but popped with us that weekend, one of up now and then at the Uberfall whom, Lisa Dine (Eric's fiancee), in case help was needed. A great filled in for Karen as my good bunch! luck charm. Rich thoroughly Too many climbs were done to enjoyed being in on a real first name them all. I got to add one ascent, and flashed the route to route to my list, which is better show his enthusiasm. After that, than last training session when we witnessed one of the most the list grew by none. I also amazing twenty minutes of got a chance to second an old climbing either of us had ever favorite, CCK, led by Eric Wash. seen, when Eric led The American Eric is a fairly new climber, Sportsman, (5.12d/13a, **, and having gone through our basic should be R too!). In 70 feet of course in March and lead training climbing, there are three points at Seneca in April. of protection, yet Eric climbed . UP ROPE 3

Trip participants included: GREAT FALLS Tom Gherlein, Pete Grant, Paul JUNE 11, 1988 Guthrie, Glenn Schumaker, Tom Thomas, Paul Torelli, and Eric A large crowd showed up on Wash. this delightful day. The Pete Grant Blitzkrieg area was sieged, with Training Coordinator mixed results. As near as I can remember, there were Tom Isaacson, NEW RIVER GORGE Madeleine Carter, her friend JUNE 4-5, 1988 Suzanne, Gary Prince, Sugh, Josh Another weekend at the New. and Josie Brown, David Bailey, Saturday was project day, Brian Rennex, and maybe even some and we hiked the Ames and Head others whose names I've Walls seeking new lines (many forgotten. Everyone got up were spied, even some in single something or other, and there digit grade range!). We finally were some determined efforts on returned to a route Eric had top some hard routes. The PATC MS roped the weekend before, and tanning section was out in climbed Michelin Man (5.12b. strength, and good use was made ***), one look at which and of the kind weather. you'll understand the name. Stuart Pregnall followed Eric, and Rich followed me. Karen hated all of us for ANNAPOLIS ROCK being able to reach a key lunge JUNE 12, 1988 low down on the route; the actual Another fine day in the crux is just her kind of hills. climbing. After that, everything For the life of me I'll got tangled up, and between never remember all the names of rapping new lines and trying the people who showed up, but others, we ended up doing a bunch there were some pleasant of different things. I managed surprises among the climbers. to pop the crux lunge on another Charlie Dorian made an new route, Pounded Puppies appearance, thus adding grist to (5.12a, **) late in the day, and the rumor mill that he intends to Eric followed, making me feel make a comeback (see the article good by kindly falling off the on competitions)! In addition, crux twice. Clare Witt was out showing off Sunday brought Rich back her new shoes. Chuck Veckert, into the lead, and he flashed another irregular, also made an Boschtardized (5.11c, ***), which appearance and despite a few was so good he's still bubbling stumbles while walking climbed about it. Karen and I cleaned well. Tom Isaacson, Tom Russell, and led Suggestions (5.11b, **) Kit Pollock, Jeanette Helfrich, just to the left of Eric's Jacques Tamisier, the Pregnalls, Michelin Man, and Rich followed Brad Cohen (and friends Ted and as well. Eric ended the day by Matt), Ed Cummings, the entire working on a horrendous set of Brown family, and a couple whose mover up and through a roof, names I didn't get, all showed up which will eventually go at and most people climbed, too! around 5.12c/d. We named it Tom Russell, preparing for his tentatively Kama Futra after the trip to the Canadian Rockies, key heel hook/toe lock. It took forged up a few lines on the everything I had left to follow lead. Brad got a customized beta to moves on a very tight rope. on Pine Tree Wall, and Karen Karen and I had to boogie at that Pregnall finally figured out a point, so we bashed on down the short person's variation to avoid trail and headed back for home. one lunge. Tom Isaacson, ever in 4 UP ROPE

search of divergence in this the crux, eyed the top (and 1st world of mergers, pushed up a place!) and flashed on to win. variation to Three Bulges, and His efforts brought the crowd to its quality was confirmed later its feet, cheering at his mastery by Stuart. of the route. A miscellany of "new" lines The competition wasn't was rigged, with varying quality without controversy. Contestants and difficulty. Kit Pollock complained often about the discovered that Annapolis Rock's course, chiefly because many of rock can be ephemeral, pulling the cruxes involved reach off a key hold that Tom Isaacson problems, thus favoring taller had used earlier on an overhang. contestants. There was also an In all, not a bad day. inconsistent ruling concerning Everyone had a good time, and if the use of out of bounds holds. truth be known, it would have Didier Raboutou was disqualified been difficult to make it better. for placing a foot out of bounds, Stuart Pregnall but Catherine Destivelle wasn't. Ironically, Raboutou was favored WORLD CUP COMPETITION to win the Men's Division. In SNOWBIR13, UTAH addition, the women complained JUNE 1 1 SE 12, 1988 that they had to climb the same course as the men, unlike at You heard it here first! other competitions where slightly The winners of the 1988 different routes were devised for International the Women's Divisions. As Championship, held at Snowbird Patissier commented, "It's just Utah, held a couple of big no fun to climb 20 meters and surprises. First of a nine-event fall off." series of UIAA World Cup Local climber John Bercaw, competitions, the Snowbird event who flew out to enter the open was the first in this country. qualifying rounds, apparently was CBS Sports will air at least one given incorrect information and half hour of the event at a date showed up a day late. Despite to be announced later. his protestations, he wasn't The winners were: allowed to attempt to catch up. MEN'S DIVISION American competitors did 1st well overall, scoring heavily in 2nd J.B. Tribout the top ten winners in each 3rd Marc leMenestral Division. The French 4th Martin Atkinson competitors, with more 5th Jason Stern experience, still have a 6th Christian Griffith slight edge, but the gap is 7th Scott Franklin closing. Jason Stern, remember, is only WOMEN'S DIVISION 16 years old! 1st Catherine Destivelle Organizers Dick Bass 2nd Mari Gingery and hope that next year's 3rd Lynn Hill competition will draw larger 4th Isabelle Patissier crowds; more than the 1,200-1,500 who attended will be necessary to The final round in the Men's make competition climbing as Division was a 5.13b route successful here in the States as involving a long sequence of 5.12 it is in Europe. moves up to harder a roof, above Stuart Pregnall which was the devious crux face! Several of the climbers fell off below the roof, some fell off at the roof, but Edlinger, climbing last in the competition, flashed up and through the roof, spotted • UP ROPE 5

TRAINING STATUS REPORT UP ROPE COPY NEEDED During April and May, two The Editor of UP ROPE needs intermediate courses and two your help in providing copy for basic courses have been each issue. Trip reports, news conducted. So far this year, 27 items, book reviews, commentary people have received basic on the state of the sport, training and 14 have gone through illustrations --let your the intermediate training course. imagination run riot. Please The next basic course is send contributions to Tom scheduled for June 18th. Isaacson, 1918 New Hampshire The schedule for the Ave., NW, Washington D.C. 20009 remainder of 1988 is as follows: Basic course (all have openings): June 18, July 17, BOOK REVIEWS August 20, September 17, October K2: Triumph and Tragedy by Jim 15, and November 5 or 6. Curran 1988 $22.95 256 pages Lead courses: July 2-4 (1 The Mountaineers Hardcover opening), July 16-17 (one Illustrated opening), September 3-5 (open), and October 8-10 (open). K2's summit may be more Basic courses are open to seductively alluring than any anyone--just sign the release other mountain's; perhaps it is form. Lead training requires the addictive. Whatever the case, following! K2's base camp sites were packed Must have taken our basic to capacity with multinational course, must have attended at teams during the summer of 1986. least four top rope sessions with The Fates were kind to many that active participation in belaying year; 27 people climbed K2. The and climbing, must thoroughly Fates also demanded their price; know the basic knots--figure 8, eight summiters died, and five bowline, and double overhand other supplicants died on the backup knot, must be able to mountain. Among the dead were rappel without assistance, must some of the world's best be familiar with own harness and climbers. What, then, happened? belay device, and must be able to climb! You should be able to K2: Triumph and Tragedy explores climb at least 5.4. the events that summer from Jim Curran's knowledgeable view. A seasoned Himalayan climber, DISCOUNT GEAR PURCHASE Curran knows both the mountains and many of the climbers involved The Mountaineering Section will in the summer's tragedy. As a organize another discount gear professional film maker, Curran purchase from International also knows how to step back and Mountain Equipment of North objectively record events, Conway, N.H. this fall. IME will letting the action speak for give us 15% off their catalog itself. In the emotion charged prices for an order of $3,000 or aftermath of the K2 summer, much more. Tom Kawecki will again truth was distorted by subjective coordinate this effort--call him and uninformed accounts. Curran at 202-767-6997 (w) or 703-237- tells the tale as it happened, 7227 (h) before September 15th if and lets the reader judge for you are interested in himself. At the end, Curran participating. gives his own view, but is certain to make the reader aware that he is reading an opinionated, not a factual, UP ROPE summary of the events and causes as well get something you're that led to so many tragic deaths proud to have. Let's hope The high on K2. Mountaineers Books keeps up the good work! Curran's writing style is crisp. Stuart Pregnall He lets many of the climbers speak for themselves, quoting extensively, which brings to life personalities and gives depth to the narrative. Not all of K2 is about life and death on the mountain, however; Curran permits himself to weave his narrative threads around related matters, which broadens the book's perspective. K2's central character, who is both protagonist and antagonist, is Al Rouse, a difficult personality: driven to achieve a summit he had failed to climb before, all of Rouse's force, talent and ambition push inexorably on to the summit. A close friend of Curran's, Rouse is portrayed as objectively as any character in the literature. Curran shows us Rouse's scheming and selfish side, some of his absurdly wild side, his temperamentally impossible side, and his honest side: there are also other sides to his personality; in fact, Rouse is more a duodecahedron.

There are some good lessons to be learned from K2, both for alpinists and rock climbers alike. Further, it is good reading. I just wish the subject matter had never happened.

Incidentally, the production of K2 by The Mountaineers Books indicates a renewed dedication their part to provide high quality photo reproduction and excellent printing in their hardcover editions. In recent years, some of The Mountaineers Books efforts have been inconsistent. The results read over the past year or so show that the overall quality and commitment to production seems to have been turned around for the better. If you're going to pay a few bucks for a book, you might UP ROPE 7

CLIMBERS CALENDAR

July 2-4 Gunks** Pete Grant 703-960-6033 July 2-4 New River** Stuart Pregnall 202-543-3988 July 6 Executive Meeting Rich Cunningham 202-332-7931 July 9 Great Falls (Microdome) Gary Prince 202-462-4586 July 10 Old Rag Jeanette Helfrich 301-585-9119 July 10 Carderock Work trip Harold Goldstein 202-966-9091 July 13 Monthly Meeting PATC HQ 7:30 "UP ROPE" and "BELAYING THE LEADER" videos July 16 Herzog Island Rich Cunningham 202-332-7931 July 17 Annapolis Rock Tom Isaacson 202-332-3710 July 23 The Cove Rich Cunningham 202-332-7931 July 24 Wolf Gap Rich Cunningham 202-332-7931 July 30 Great Falls Madeleine Carter 202-362-5036 July 31 White Oak Canyon Stuart Rosenthal 703-527-5247

NO AUGUST MEETING OR UP ROPE!!!

August 6 Boucher Rock Tom Isaacson 202-332-3710 August 7 Great Falls Stuart Pregnall 202-543-3988 August 13 Great Falls Madeleine Carter 202-362-5036 August 14 Sugarloaf Jeanette Helfrich 301-585-9119 August 20 Big Devil's Stairs Stuart Rosenthal 703-527-5247 August 21 White Oak Canyon Stuart Rosenthal 703-527-5247 Aug 27/28 Hermitage Weekend Tom Russell 301-869-8058 Sept 3-5 Gunks** Pete Grant 703-960-6033 Sept 3-5 Great Falls ???? Sept 7 Executive Meeting Rich Cunningham 202-332-7931 Sept 10 Great Falls Rich Cunningham 202-332-7931 Sept 11 Annapolis Rocks Jeanette Helfrich 301-585-9119 Sept 14 Monthly Meeting Slide Show: Ken Andrasko on an attempt of Annauprna South Sep 17/18 Bellefonte PA Stuart Pregnall 202-543-3988 (Fabulous face/crack climbing, lots of moderates, on LIMESTONE!!) Sept 18 Great Falls ???? Sept 24 Old Rag Rich Cunningham 202-332-7931 Sept 25 White Oak Canyon Rich Cunningham 202-332-7931

PLEASE NOTE: Call trip coordinators mid-week to make arrangements and contingency plans. In the absence of published trip leaders, call Rich Cunningham or Stuart Pregnall. Trips noted ** are to lead climbing areas. Please arrange for your own partners; the trip coordinator can help with arranging rides and other logistics. 8 UP ROPES

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'• a P M '14 JUL

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