The Definitive Survival Guide for Travelers

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Italy From The Inside: The Definitive Survival Guide for Travelers

Italy From The Inside “The Definitive Survival Guide for Travelers”

A native Italian reveals the secrets of traveling in Italy

Francesca Tosolini

Version: 18-Jun-09

Author’s Note: Although I’ve tried to make the information in this eBook as accurate as possible, I accept NO responsibility for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person resulting from any information published in this eBook, and/or for any kind of changes without notice and beyond my control, such as telephone numbers, timetables, prices, fees, etc. and/or other useful news. I encourage you to verify any critical information with the relevant authorities before you travel.

About Francesca

I was born in Trieste, Italy, where I spent most of my life until 1996 when I moved to Seattle, WA.

After working for a vacation rental agency and owning my own Italy travel business, I decided to stay home with my two kids.

Living in US has made me realize how many people are in love with Italy and how many would like to know more about my country.

This is what inspired me to write this unique eBook, filled with useful, practical information and tips that most of the time you won’t find in a typical travel guide.

About this eBook

This eBook is the result of many weekends and nights spent collecting 350+ tips and 190+ photos that offer an educational yet entertaining insight into Italy.

This book is dedicated to my supportive husband, Paolo, and my lovely children Silvia and Alessio. But I want to especially thank my wonderful mother, Maria Grazia, who has traveled thousands of miles to help me find the extra time I needed to complete this project. Grazie Mamma!

Acknowledgments

I’d like to thank the following persons for their contribution to this eBook:

o Annalisa Gironi o Maurizio and Gabriele Cappellani o Barbara Faenza o Olga Owens o Dex Manley o Rebecca and Glen Carlson o Geoff Culbert o Paola Albanesi

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction

Chapter 1 - General Transportation

Airports Page 12 Connections to main cities Page 12 Italian airlines Page 15 General airport information Page 15 Car Rental Page 17 General car rental information Page 17 Trains & Stations Page 20 Train ticket Page 20 Night traveling Page 27 Types of trains Page 28 General train & station information Page 29 Buses Page 34 Bus tickets Page 34 General bus information Page 36 Taxi cabs Page 39 General taxi information Page 39 Ferries Page 41 Italian ferry companies Page 41 General ferry information Page 41 Highway Traveling Page 43 Highway payment system Page 43 Rest areas Page 49 Sign system Page 50

General highway information Page 52

Chapter 2 - Driving in Italy

Driving in Italy Page 54 Road signs Page 54 Parking Page 61 Mopeds Page 66 Parking “Italian Style” Page 68 Gas stations Page 71 Car details Page 74 Miscellaneous Page 75

Chapter 3 - Italian Cuisine

Restaurants Page 77 Table charges and tipping Page 77 Beverages Page 79 Dining Italian style Page 81 The Italian menu Page 83 Pizza Page 84 Important restaurant terminology Page 86 General restaurant information Page 87

Chapter 4 - Grocery Stores & Other Food Establishments

Grocery Stores Page 91 Alimentari ~ supermarket Page 91 General grocery store information Page 92 Italian products to bring back home Page 95

Specialty Food Stores Page 97 Italian Food Misconceptions Page 104 Coffee Houses Page 105 General coffee house information Page 105 Italian coffee varieties Page 109

Chapter 5 - Retail Stores & Money Handling

Retail Stores Page 111 Store hours Page 111 Tax Page 112 General shopping information Page 114 Clothing size comparisons Page 115 Different types of retail stores Page 116 Markets Page 119

Chapter 6 - Hotels & Accommodations

Accommodations in Italy Page 121 Room information Page 121 Air conditioning and heating Page 123 General hotel information Page 123

Chapter 7 - Churches & Museums

Churches and Museums Page 127 General church information Page 127 Church services Page 129 General museum information Page 131

Chapter 8 - Hospitals & Medical Assistance

Hospitals Page 132 General hospital information Page 132 Insurance concerns Page 133 Pharmacies Page 134 General pharmacy information Page 134

Chapter 9 - Post Office

Post Office Page 138 General post office information Page 138

Chapter 10 - Telephones

Telephones Page 140 Public phones Page 140 Area codes Page 142 International calling Page 143 Emergency phone numbers Page 144 Other useful numbers Page 144 Cell phones Page 145 Internet access Page 146 General phone information Page 146

Chapter 11 - Banks & Currency

Banks Page 148 ATM machines Page 148

Money tips Page 150 General bank information Page 150 Currency information: The Euro Page 152 General Euro information Page 154

Chapter 12 - Units & Conversions

Units and Conversions Page 155 Distance Page 155 Weight Page 156 Temperature Page 156 Volume Page 157 Power Page 158 Other conversion resources Page 158

Chapter 13 - National Holidays

Italian Holidays Page 159 Specific holidays Page 159 Local holidays Page 160 General holiday information Page 161

Chapter 14 - Italian Lifestyle

Italian Lifestyle Page 162 Interesting food facts Page 162 Interpersonal communications Page 164

Chapter 15 - Miscellaneous Information

Miscellaneous Page 166

Appendix A – Basic Glossary

English to Italian Page 177

Our blog and podcast

Conclusion

INTRODUCTION

Imagine your plane about to touch down in Italy. Imagine yourself flying just above the ground. You’ve almost arrived at your long-dreamed-of destination. You can’t wait to get out of the plane and start the fun part of your trip… exploring the beauty and culture of Italy!

You get off the airplane and take your first deep breath of Italian air. Smiling, you walk toward the baggage claim. You are delighted to find your suitcases have arrived, and you are ready to go! Your bags are heavy, so you look for the baggage carts. There they are! You try to get one from the rack. You pull it but it doesn’t move. What’s wrong? Oh, of course, it is coin operated. But wait a minute, you only have US coins and this machine only takes Euro coins, which you don’t have!

Now you’re starting to get frustrated. You realize you need to find the exchange office so you can get some Euros. But it’s nowhere to be found! Now what? You think, “Maybe somebody can lend me a Euro… or maybe I should just drag my luggage to the exit” or, “Damn it! If I had only known about this before I left home!” Fortunately for you, you are reading this eBook. That kind of scenario won’t happen to you now, although it happened to me once….

We were traveling from Seattle (where I have been living for the past 13 years) to Venice, Italy. I was traveling with my husband and two kids (in the picture), and as you can imagine, we were loaded down with suitcases, stroller, car seats, and so on. When it was time to get a cart for my luggage I realized that in order to use it I needed a 1 Euro coin, which I fortunately had from a previous trip. But then I thought: "What if you don't know about this? What if this is the first time you’ve traveled to Italy and you don't have any Euros because you planned to exchange your money once there? How do you get out of the airport with all of your luggage? How do you deal with this situation?"

This is when I decided I wanted to do something, and that very same day in the Venetian airport I came up with the idea of an informative eBook about the hidden face of Italy: the everyday life.

(P.S. I’m glad to report that Venice airport now provides currency exchange machines. They must have read our eBook ☺)

What can you expect from this eBook?

My goal is to show you everything you need to know before you get to Italy, so that when you are actually in Italy, you can just simply enjoy your trip free of trouble.

This eBook will answer many typical questions such as: • How do Italians really drive? • How are the hotels in Italy? • How do I recognize a good restaurant? • Can I use my credit card in Italy? • How does the train system work? • What is the best time of year to go to Italy? • Where can I find an English speaking doctor? • And many more…

In addition, I’ll give you other information that only an insider like me knows and that you usually don't find in the tourist guides or on the Internet.

I read many guides and visited many websites about Italy, but I couldn't find anywhere an exhaustive list of useful, practical information. This eBook is a collection of information that can save you money, time and trouble.

You won't find a list of hotels or places to visit (there are already many great guides about that), but you will find all the practical information that will help you deal with your everyday experiences in Italy.

Also, the cultural aspect hasn’t been disregarded; I’ll show you how Italians behave and why (and I’m sure you’ll have fun learning this…).

Most importantly, many tips are accompanied by photos my husband and I took during our last trip to Italy. This is a great help that will make you picture some situations and realities even before setting foot in this unique country.

Last but not least, many English words in this eBook have a corresponding Italian translation written in italics. This is to introduce you to the Italian language so that you can start getting used to some words and phrases that you’ll likely need to know during your stay in Italy.

Now, enjoy your reading and… get ready for Italy!

46% of Americans associate Italy with “good food and wine.” (Source: Italian Trade Commission, 2004)

Chapter 1 – General Transportation

AIRPORTS

For most of you the airport is the place where you’ll have your first encounter with the Italian system. Airports in Italy are modern and easy to navigate, since they are not as big as American ones. The major ones offer many services for the traveler along with fine boutiques, restaurants and coffee houses where you can have your last Italian espresso before catching the flight home.

CONNECTIONS TO MAIN CITIES

1. The following is a list of the main Italian airports and their connections to the city:

a. Milan- Linate (LIN) is located at 7 km (4 miles) from downtown Milan. It is reachable by car, taxi or bus. Both airports share the same website that you can visit to get updated information on schedules (orari) and fees (tariffe).

b. Milan- Malpensa (MPX): the airport is located 50 km (31miles) from the city center. It has two terminals. There is a free shuttle, operating 24 hours a day, connecting the two terminals. The shuttle leaves every 15 minutes. If you don't plan to reach Milan by taxi, which is usually very expensive, or by car (macchina), you can also get there by train or bus. There is a bus service connecting the airport of Linate to the airport of Malpensa. The fee is around €10 per person.

N.B. If you plan to land and depart from Milan, pay great attention to the name of the airport written on the ticket. A friend of mine, who used to work in the airport of Malpensa, told me that too many times she saw passengers missing their flight because they thought it was departing from Malpensa (were they arrived) while it was actually departing from Linate!

c. Rome- Leonardo Da Vinci (FCO), also known as Fiumicino airport, is located 36 km (22 miles) from the “Eternal city.” The Fiumicino airport is the hub for national and international services, and it shouldn’t be confused with the Ciampino airport that serves low-cost, “courier express,” and general aviation traffic. The best and most convenient way to reach Rome from the Fiumicino airport is the train (treno). More information available on their website.

d. Venice- Marco Polo (VCE). The airport is 12 km (7.5 miles) from the city of Venice (Venezia). As you may already know, no cars can enter Venice. This is not because they are prohibited, but because they cannot physically fit in the city. Venice is on the water and is made of bridges and small pedestrian streets (called calli). All cars must be parked right outside the city, in Piazzale Roma, where there is a main parking lot (parcheggio). This is also the arrival point of all buses and taxi cabs.

You have many options to reach Venice from the airport. You can take:

o the bus, car or taxi to Piazzale Roma;

o the bus, car or taxi to the train station of Mestre, and then take the train to Venice (it takes about 10 minutes from Mestre to Venice);

o the public boat to Saint Mark’s Square (or other Venetian destinations);

o the water taxi to your destination. This is the easiest, but also the most expensive solution. If you choose the water taxi, then budget around €100 (for up to 4 people) and get ready to feel like a movie star, speeding on the Venetian waters with the wind caressing your hair.

Water taxi outside the Venice airport

The official website of the Marco Polo airport in Venice gives you information on all means of transportation from the airport to the city.

e. Florence- Amerigo Vespucci (FLR). It is located only 4 km (2.5 miles) from the city center. This airport can be reached by car, taxi or bus. To get more information, visit the airport official website.

f. Naples- International Airport (NAP). Located 6 km (3.7 miles) from the city. Naples (Napoli) can be reached by car, taxi or bus. More information is available on the airport website.

g. Palermo- Punta Raisi (PMO). Located 32 km (20 miles) outside the city limits, the airport Punta Raisi is connected to Palermo downtown thanks to a bus service. The city can be also reached by car, taxi and train. More information is available on the airport website.

ITALIAN AIRLINES

2. The main Italian airlines are:

o Alitalia

o Air One

o Meridiana

o Air Dolomiti

o Wind Jet

o My Air

GENERAL AIRPORT INFORMATION

3. In many airports luggage carts (carrelli) are free to use, others require a deposit of €1 (read: one Euro) to unlock the cart from the rack. If this is your first trip to Italy, you may find it convenient to have a few spare coins (monete) available ahead of time. You could inquire about Euro coins at your local bank or maybe try asking for a couple of spare Euros from friends who have recently come back from Europe. Having not only some change, but also a bit of Euro cash with you can save you the time and hassle of looking right away for an exchange office, which, of course, is never where it should be… (P.S. At the Malpensa airport the luggage carts now accept US quarters.)

Did you know?

If you visit the website http://www.currencysource.com you can buy foreign currency, which is directly delivered to your home in cash.

Use a €1 coin to unlock your luggage cart

4. Some airports don't provide very good signs showing you where rental car companies are located within the airport itself. So when returning to the airport to catch a new flight, try to give yourself a little extra time to drop off your rental car, as you may have some difficulties finding the right rental car drop-off location. That being said, rental car offices are usually located on the top floor of a parking garage.

5. Hotels located in the airport are very expensive. Finding an accommodation a few miles from the airport may save you a lot of money.

CAR RENTAL

Renting a car in Italy is an easy process, and it is highly recommended if you want to explore the countryside or want to have the freedom to travel in Italy at your own pace.

GENERAL CAR RENTAL INFORMATION

1. Minimum age required to rent a car in Italy usually is 21, maximum age is 75. To drive a luxury car (or other specific models) you must be at least 25. Age limits may vary depending on the car rental company policy, so make sure to inquire before renting the car. Your driver's license (patente di guida) must be valid and held for at least one year (or two, if you are 21).

2. You need valid insurance (assicurazione) coverage to rent a car in Italy. Most of the time this insurance is already included in the rental cost and it is mandatory, even if you have your own.

This insurance usually includes three different types of coverage:

o The RC which is for damages to third parties, including the people traveling in the car;

o The TLW (or TP) for damages caused by fire and theft;

o The CDW for damages caused to the vehicle itself.

Make sure to check these details with your car rental company.

3. The Italian standard car has a manual transmission, or stick shift (marce), so if you decide to rent a car in Italy and prefer an automatic, remember to specify that at the time of the reservation and be prepared to pay a slightly higher rental cost for your request. If for any reason you forget to do so, then a car with manual transmission will be automatically given to you and you’ll have to train your feet to work a third pedal: the clutch.

Did you know?

To engage the reverse you have to pull down or lift up the stick shift, depending on the car model.

Manual transmission, from the left: clutch, brake and accelerator

4. Always remember to ask (chiedere) which kind of gas the car needs (it may be gasoline or diesel). If the wrong type of gas is used, the car will stop working. This might seem obvious, but it actually happens all the time. So just spend a few minutes to double check this issue and make sure that you know what kind of gas your car needs so you are not left stranded in the middle of a country road, or worse, stuck in downtown traffic!

5. It is advisable to arrange for the car rental before arriving in Italy, first to make sure that you get the car you want, and second to have an idea about how much the total rental is going to cost. The “Value Added Tax” may be higher than what you expect (usually it is around 20%). Further, there may also be additional charges if you want to pick your car up in one city and drop it off in another city.

6. If you rent a car in Italy and travel with a companion, an additional charge may be required in case your companion wants to drive.

7. Most of the car rental agencies are open seven days a week; some of them however are open Monday to Friday, half day on Saturday and are closed on Sunday, with the exception of agencies located in the airports ,which are open every day from early morning to late at night. Keep this in mind in case you are already in Italy and decide you want to experience the Italian roads: just

try to rent a car before the weekend starts, or you will have to go to the airport to get one.

Did you know?

Compact rental cars in Italy are really… compact. If you are used to super-sized American cars, you may find yourself a little squeezed in those nice little FIATs.

A compact-size car

8. Last but not least: expect a surcharge of about 15% if you rent your car at the airport and 8% if you rent it at the train station.

TRAINS & STATIONS

The Italian train system is very efficient and convenient if you have to cover long distances. In Italy trains are very popular in everyday life. They are a common means of transportation for commuters, students, business men, etc. Taking the train in Italy can definitely get you closer to the Italian culture. Let's see how it works:

TRAIN TICKET

1. A train ticket can be purchased at several locations:

a. The train station ticket office (biglietteria). It is very important that you have a clear idea of the kind of ticket (biglietto) you want to buy (comprare). It may be a good idea to write the trip plan on a piece of paper (pezzo di carta) to show to the clerk, in case the language barrier makes the process too difficult. Keep in mind that most clerks speak only very basic English, so a note showing information such as the city or town of departure, the city or town of arrival, the date (data) and the time (ora) of departure, and the number of people traveling in your party would be helpful. Another good idea is to have a map showing where you have to go and just pointing to the locations you want to travel to. Credit cards are accepted.

Did you know?

The ticket office is usually open from 6am to 9pm (in the major train stations), so buy your ticket the day before in case you have to catch an early train (and in case you wonder, yes, you can find many people waiting in line even at 6am…). Ticket office hours are listed on Trenitalia’s website.

Train station ticket office

If you are in a hurry, look for the Fast Ticket Window (Sportello Veloce). This is an option that may be very useful if you are just about

to catch your train, but you still haven’t purchased your ticket. The Sportello Veloce ticket window is reserved for passengers whose train leaves within 15 minutes. Last January I was one of those passengers. My adrenaline was already going up when I saw this ticket window and literally ran to it. Thank God there were only two people in front of me. It wouldn’t have been my dream to spend two hours waiting at the Naples train station… Right now this service is available only in major train stations.

b. Self-service ticket machines (distributori di biglietti automatici). These are big yellow (or blue) machines, and they are very easy to use. They accept credit cards, ATM cards and sometimes cash (contanti). The machine will lead you through a series of detailed questions (which are available also in English) about your ticket: the origin of your trip and final destination, date, time, and so on. Ticket machines are a great way to avoid lines (file) at the ticket counter, even though sometimes lines form in front of the machines as well….

Self-service ticket machine

c. Travel agencies (agenzie di viaggio). This is a good solution if you want to avoid language barriers, as travel agents are usually more familiar with English than the clerks at the train stations. At the same time, they are less familiar with the train system and its travel options. If you choose a travel agency to purchase your ticket, make sure that it shows the Trenitalia logo on the window or door, since not all travel agencies sell train tickets.

Trenitalia’s website shows a list of agencies (organized by region) where it is possible to purchase train tickets.

d. News stands (giornalai) and cigarette stores called tobacconists (tabaccai) also sell train tickets, but only for short distance trips (usually up to 250 km = 155 miles).

e. On the Internet: http://www.trenitalia.com/en/index.html. You need to be a registered user to be able to purchase tickets through the Internet. It's very easy to become a registered user: just fill out the online form with your first name, last name and email address. Tickets purchased on the Internet used to have the same price as those purchased at the train station. However, since January 1st 2008, the prices of the premium tickets (such as Eurostar) have been increased by 15%, but if you buy them either online, or by calling the Call Center at 892 021, or from travel agencies with the ticketless procedure you get a 5% discount. I encourage you to visit the Trenitalia website for more details about online purchases. Although it seems to me that for a tourist the easiest way to buy a train ticket is by dealing with a human being…

f. The Call Center (this service has limited English support). By calling the number 892 021 you have access to:

o The Information Service for train schedules and fares, etc;

o Assistance on the Trenitalia.com website

o Buy or change booking (except for regional trains)

o Other useful services.

Warning!! From landlines, calling rates are €0.30 per unit answer and €0.54 per minute, which means that a 10 minute call may cost you almost $9. Think twice before making that call... From cell phones rates vary depending on the provider.

2. Purchasing a ticket gives you the right to travel on the train, but it doesn't necessarily give you a seat (posto) unless you make a specific seat reservation (prenotazione). Sometimes tickets are sold even if no seats are available, in which case you'll have to ride the train standing up until a non-reserved seat frees up.

3. You can start reserving a seat from two months in advance until the departure itself. But if you plan to travel between June 1st and September 30th you can reserve your ticket three months in advance for the outward trip and 4 months in advance for the return trip. Of course, if you are planning to travel during high season or holidays it is advisable to reserve your seats as far in advance as possible, otherwise a couple of days before is usually enough (NB: by high season I mean Christmas, Easter and summer time).

4. Open tickets are valid for two months (mesi) from the date of issue. They can be used on any day during this two-month period. Tickets for trains that require a mandatory reservation are valid only on the day and time specified. The distance-validity tickets do not have any time limit (see bullet d.).

5. Some trains require an additional fee on top of the regular price. This is almost always the case for night trains (couchettes and sleeper trains), but sometimes also for what would seem like a regular train (many Intercity trains require a supplement). This information is displayed on the timetable, which you should always check prior to purchasing a ticket.

6. After you have purchased your ticket (biglietto), always remember to validate it at the yellow punch machines usually located at the beginning of the train tracks (binario) and throughout the station.

Did you know?

For some inexplicable reason in some train stations the ticket punch machines are not located on the platform along the train tracks, but only at the start of them. This means that if you are already on the train and suddenly remember that you haven’t punched your ticket, you have to get off the train and go back to the beginning of the track to validate it. It doesn’t seem like a big deal, unless the train is half a mile long…

Ticket punch machine

This is very important because during the trip (viaggio) the ticket conductor (controllore) will check your ticket. If you forget to validate it, you may risk getting a €200 fine (multa) plus the cost of the ticket. Should you forget to do it, inform the ticket conductor right away.

Did you know?

Since October 2004 it is not possible to buy tickets on the train anymore. Travelers without a ticket are subject to a fine of €200, plus the full fare ticket. If you pay the fine within 15 days then the amount is going to be reduced to €100, if you pay on the spot or at the final destination it is reduced to €50

The main exceptions to this rule apply when the ticket office is closed (like in smaller train stations), or the ticket machines are out of order.

Ticket conductor

7. Tickets are given in two or more portions: one shows the itinerary, the total cost and the total length of the trip (marked in kilometers); the other (or others) is the actual ticket for each train you have to take, therefore it shows the date and time of departure, the seat number (in case you made a reservation), the city of origin and the destination (which corresponds to the city where your trip ends or the one where you have to change trains), the class, etc.

8. Tickets are only good for 6 hours after validation for distances of 200 km or less, and for 24 hours on distances of 200 km or more (200 km=124 miles). This means that you are allowed to get off (scendere) the train if you want to make a short visit to one or two towns along the way, as long as you don’t exceed the maximum time allowed to get to your final destination. So if you decide to get off the train before your final destination, make sure to evaluate the train timetables to be sure you can catch another train before your ticket validation time runs out.

9. Seat reservations are usually not mandatory (obbligatorio) on most trains, however, if you plan to take the train for a long trip, you probably should reserve a seat, especially if departing from very crowded train stations (such as Milan or Rome). Sometimes the train gets so crowded that you have to stand for a long time before you can find a seat to rest your poor bones, and this can be a matter of hours in many cases. Fortunately, some trains allow you to upgrade your ticket to first class (most trains in Italy have a first and a second class) just by paying the difference plus a fee (usually around €8). These pictures show the difference between first and second class on new trains:

Did you know?

Older trains have cabins, accessible from a lateral corridor, with two facing rows of seats. The seats can be flattened down to form a bed, which may become a lifesaver for night trips.

First class

Second class

10. Children (bambini) up to 4 years old travel free (gratis) in both first and second class, but don’t have the right to occupy a seat.

Children 5 to 12 years old can obtain a 50% (or 30% for sleeping-car trips) reduction on the ticket price.

Groups of at least 10 people can receive a discount on tickets for first and second class: 10% if they travel on Friday and Sunday, 20% if they travel during the other days of the week.

If you plan to use the train often during your vacation, don’t forget that a variety of train passes are available. Some of them can be even purchased in your own country from authorized travel agencies or online at www.raileurope.com.

NIGHT TRAVELING

11. Traveling by night on a train can be a thrilling experience. Besides the traditional and cheaper couchettes carriages with room for 4 or 6 people, there are several sleeper carriages offering cabins with one, two or three (bunk) beds. A washbasin with warm and cold water, reading lamp, electrical plugs and other basic amenities are provided in the Classic and Tourist class sleeper carriages.

Did you know?

If you are a woman travelling solo, keep in mind that some compartments on the train can be reserved for ladies only.

Couchette for 4 people (we slept here on our way to Naples, our couchette-mate snored all the way to our destination…)

For those who want to experience a more luxurious trip there are the Excelsior sleeper carriages which provide air conditioning, toilet with shower, electronic panels showing the train itinerary, intercom service and other fancy amenities.

Recently, a new service has been added to some night trains: you can rent a portable DVD player and a movie for €7; if you want to watch 2 movies then the cost is €10. Trenitalia’s website even shows you on which itineraries the DVD service is provided.

For more information and details about night trains visit the Trenitalia website.

TYPES OF TRAINS

12. There are different types of trains; the main ones are:

o The Eurostar (also knows as ETR or Pendolino) is the fastest train, and a good alternative to the airplane. It offers connections between the major cities on the west-east routes (for example, it runs between Milan and Venice in 2½ hours), or north-south (for example, it covers the distance between Venice and Rome in 4½ hours). A reservation on this train is mandatory. You can now take a virtual tour of a Eurostar train on Trenitalia’s website.

o The Intercity (IC) is a train that covers the entire territory, connecting also minor cities. Reservation is not mandatory and costs €3. You can take a virtual tour of an Intercity by visiting Trenitalia’s website.

o The Intercity Plus is the improved version of the traditional Intercity and it offers new interiors and amenities. Reservation is mandatory and costs €1 for trips up to 300 km, €2 for longer trips.

o The Interregional is a fast train connecting places in different regions.

o The Direct train connects cities within one or two regions. It stops at fewer train stations.

o The Regional and Local trains are the slowest and are mainly used by commuters. They travel within one region and stop at almost every station. They offer second-class service only.

As a rule there isn't much luggage space in the train aisles, so larger bags need to be placed in the appropriate area near the door. If you do travel with bulky luggage, try to get a seat near the door so you can keep an eye on your belongings.

GENERAL TRAIN & STATION INFORMATION

13. Whether you are planning to buy a ticket at the train station or not, always try to get there at least 20 or 30 minutes (minuti) before the train departs. This will give you the time to absorb the shock of unexpected long lines at the ticket office desk while buying a ticket, and find the right platform (binario). You may also want to buy drinks (bibite) or snacks to take on the train (as not all trains provide food service), which will also add to your pre-boarding time. Train tap water (acqua) is absolutely not drinkable. Make sure to buy some bottled water before getting on the train, especially if it is going to be a long trip!

Did you know?

As you probably already know, Venezia is the Italian name for Venice. What about that “S.L.”? That stands for “Santa Lucia,” which is the name of the train station in Venice.

Now, if you look under the “S.L.” you can read “Reg. 1a, 2a cl. 17.47”: this means that this is a Regional train offering 1st and 2nd class seats and it is departing at 5:47pm.

Train platform

14. Bicycles can be boarded on certain trains only. Usually a bicycle icon is displayed on the official schedule and on the train carriage.

15. The train timetable can be found on billboards (orari dei treni) which are yellow for departures (partenze) and white for arrivals (arrivi).

Did you know?

Taking the train may be more convenient since a second-class ticket is usually less expensive than the combined cost of freeway tolls and gas to the same destination.

For example, at the time of this writing, a second class one way ticket from Milan to Rome ranges from €32 to €67 depending on the type of train. Arrivals The freeway toll from Milan to Rome is €31. Gas cost averages around €80.

In other words it's about €67 max to go by train versus around €110 for the same trip by car.

Departures

16. The platform from which the train leaves is indicated on the train schedule. Also, check the electronic boards for departure and arrivals, which are updated every few minutes. Sometimes last minute changes occur, and it is always better to double-check if the train leaves from the advertised platform.

Departures and arrivals electronic board

17. Most train stations offer a baggage storage service (deposito bagagli) where you can deposit your luggage for a few hours (ore) or even days (giorni). Usually the fees are based on the number of bags. An ID (documento d'identita') is required at the time of deposit and pick up; your passport should suffice. Also, remember to check the office hours to avoid the inconvenience of finding the office closed (chiuso) when you are ready to leave.

Did you know?

Smoking is prohibited on all trains since March 2004. Better later than never! Besides, trust me, even smokers didn’t like the smoking trains. Many times I saw smoker passengers traveling in a non-smoking car, but then enjoying their cigarette in the smoking car. And guess were I was traveling? In the smoking car of course, since I couldn’t find a spot in the non-smoking car, which was occupied by many of these “cheaters”…

Baggage storage

18. In some train stations there is a fee to pay if you want to use the restroom, so it’s a good idea to always have some coins with you. If no fee is requested, usually there is an attendant who expects to be tipped. A little curiosity to add

to your travels is that you may find the toilet itself different from the one you are used to. The picture below should nicely explain what I mean, so get ready to meet the gabinetto alla turca:

Did you know?

A friend of mine once told me that when she went to Italy she couldn’t figure out how to flush the toilet. First let me tell you this: there are many types of flushing systems, and one of them, which is the one my friend encountered, is a little button on the wall that needs to be pressed very firmly in order to activate the flushing. There you go, another important secret revealed ☺…

Gabinetto alla turca

19. If you use the train a lot and prefer to have the train schedule at hand, then buy the Pozzorario which is the official Italian train timetable issued twice a year and available at train station newsstands.

Pozzorario

20. And now a little curiosity about some Italian train stations: some of them (as well as some airports) have chapels (cappelle). Mass is not provided, but some people like to use them for prayer or a moment of peace.

Did you know?

Strikes by train workers are pretty common in Italy. By law, strikes must be announced at least ten days in advance and can never happen during vacation exoduses which are: from Dec. 17th to Jan. 7th, June 27th to July 4th, July 28th to August 3rd, Aug. 10th to 20th, Aug. 28th to Sep. 5th and from October 30th to November 5th.

Also the 5 days preceding and following Easter, and the three days before and after an election day (which varies depending on when it is scheduled) must always be strike free. When strikes are in progress a limited train service must always be provided.

Train station chapel

BUSES

To travel within the city, buses are definitely the most convenient means of transportation. If you want to take a tour of a city before starting your visit in detail, buses can be a cheap (economica) solution. Buses can also be a memorable way to experience the Italians' everyday life and costumes.

BUS TICKET

1. The bus ticket must be purchased in advance (in anticipo) and it has to be validated on the bus (the validation machine is on the bus). Sometimes inspectors board the buses randomly and check if you have a valid ticket with you. If you don't have it or if you have a non-validated ticket, you may be heavily fined.

Did you know?

Some outlets may be closed during the day for the traditional Italian siesta, which is usually in the afternoon from noon to 3:30pm. For this reason it is advisable to buy more than one ticket at a time.

Bus validation machine

2. Bus tickets are available at newsstands (giornalai) or at the tobacconist’s shops (tabaccherie). You can also buy them at some bars (note: a bar in Italy means a coffee house or café). Stickers on the door/window will tell you if a bar sells tickets. Recently, automatic machines selling bus tickets have been installed at some bus stops.

3. There are two main types of tickets: regular and daily.

o The regular ticket (biglietto ordinario) costs around €1 and allows you to travel for 60 (or 75) minutes from the moment you validate it. You can change buses during the 60 (or 75) minutes and you don't need to validate the ticket again. If you purchase a booklet (blocchetto) of 10 tickets, there is a slight discount. In some cities booklets have been replaced by a single ticket that can be punched up to 10 times.

Did you know?

According to a recent study, Florence is the most expensive city when it comes to bus transportation while Palermo is the cheapest one. In Florence a 70 minute bus ticket costs €1,20 (=€1,03/hour), while in Palermo a 120 A ten-ride ticket minute bus ticket costs €1 (=50 cents/hour)

There are also 90-minute tickets, 3-hour tickets or multiple trip tickets available, depending on the city.

On some city buses you can purchase your ticket on board, but you may also pay an extra charge. In Florence, for example, a 70 minute ticket purchased on board costs €2 (versus €1,20 at the newsstand). Also, the driver doesn’t have the obligation to give the change back.

o The daily ticket (biglietto giornaliero) costs around €5 and is valid for 24 hours from the time you validate it on the bus. As with the regular ticket, the daily ticket lets you use as many buses as you want with a single ticket during the allotted time without further validation. There are also 2-, 3- or 7-day tickets available depending on the city.

If you take the bus on a regular basis during a longer period of time, a monthly pass (abbonamento mensile) may be the most economical way to go. A monthly pass costs around €32.

GENERAL BUS INFORMATION

4. In some cities kids ride free depending on their age (in Rome for example they ride free until they are 10 years of age). In some other cities kids ride free according to their height and usually if they are under 1 meter (3.28 feet) tall. Many buses have a meter bar to check the height, so if your kid is 3.29 feet tall, just tell him to slouch a little ☺.

Did you know?

Rome, Naples, Milan, and recently Turin are the only Italian cities with a subway system.

Both subway and bus tickets are sold at the same locations. On top of that, there are ticket machines and ticket offices in the subway stations too.

Meter bar

5. Usually the bus terminals (capolinea) are in the vicinity of a train station, town center or tourist attraction. Buses usually run from 6am to midnight. Night buses (which usually run from midnight to 6am) are available in larger cities. Night bus tickets can be purchased on board.

6. The regular bus has three doors (porte): two to board it (in the front and back) and one or two to exit it (in the center). This is the theory. Practically speaking there are always people getting on through the exit (uscita), and getting off through the entrance (entrata): the first ones do it to get the best seats on the bus, the second ones do it to get off the bus as quickly as possible…. So just watch your step so that no one knocks you down accidentally.

People entering the bus through the exit door (center)

7. City buses are usually orange or green and the final destination is displayed on the front.

City bus

8. Long-distance buses (pullman or corriere) are available for trips between towns. There isn’t a national bus-route system, but there are many bus companies operating on a regional level and some of them offer national trips. These buses are usually blue and leave from the train station or main square (piazza). In big cities, tickets can be purchased at the bus company offices or travel agencies, while in small towns you can buy them at bars (cafés) or directly on the bus itself.

Blue long-distance bus

SITA is the leading bus company in Italy.

9. Bus schedules are available at every bus stop and often at news stands.

10. Italians are not used to neatly line up in front of the bus door, they usually gather in crowds, and as the door opens... the race begins.

TAXI CABS

Taxi cabs are definitely the easiest solution for short rides, but at the same time also the most expensive. However, if you’d like to experience high adrenaline levels in your body, then take a cab driven by a real Italian driver and enjoy your ride. I assure you that you will never forget it…

GENERAL TAXI INFORMATION

1. When you reserve a cab by phone (taxi company phone numbers vary from city to city), you will receive the number of the taxi that will pick you up. The taxi number is displayed on the car's door.

Did you know?

Theoretically it is illegal for a taxi to stop when hailed. You can reserve one by phone or you can take one at any official taxi stand.

Taxi stands are usually located near main tourist attractions, at train stations or main squares.

Taxi cab

2. In Italy, each taxi must have the sign “taxi” displayed on the car, a number (numero) and a meter, although taxi drivers are not required to have a badge with their photo. Taxis are usually white or yellow.

3. Always pay the cost indicated on the meter (plus a tip if you want). Be aware though that it is legal for cabs to add an additional fee for:

o each piece of luggage in the trunk (around €1 a piece); o rides between 10pm and 6am; o trips on holidays; o trips on Sundays; o trips to and from the airport; o trips outside the city limits.

Further, taxi drivers always charge a fixed price before the departure, this costs around €3 on regular days, €4,50 on Sunday and holidays and €5,50 for night rides (there may be some slight differences depending on the city/town).

4. As in many countries, taxi drivers will sometimes take advantage of tourists, for this reason it is a good idea to find out what's the cost of a standard fare (tariffa) before the ride. Further, make sure they operate the meter at the beginning of the ride, because they may pretend to forget to do that and then, with the excuse to give you a discount to forgive their mistake, they make you pay even more! If this is the case, don’t be afraid to contact a policeman. Before doing so, ask for a receipt showing the itinerary, the taxi number and the amount paid.

5. Unauthorized cabs are usually easily found outside airports and train stations. Remember: a legal taxi must always have the sign “taxi” along with a number.

6. Taxi rides are usually paid for in cash for the simple reason that not all cabs have credit card machines. If you want to pay by credit card (carta di credito), you need to specify it at the time of the reservation and a cab with a credit card device will be sent to you. On the other hand, if you want to pay by cash but you only have big bills, ask in advance if they have some change as sometimes it happens that they don’t.

FERRIES

For those who don't want to limit their visit to mainland, there is a very good ferry connection between the mainland and the islands of Sicily, Sardinia, Elba Island, Capri and Ischia.

ITALIAN FERRY COMPANIES

The following is a list of websites representing the major ferry companies in Italy:

o Tirrenia Navigazione - Serving Sardinia, Sicily and Tremiti Islands

o Grandi Navi Veloci - Serving Sardinia and Sicily

o SNAV - Serving Sardinia, Sicily, Capri, Ischia, Procida, Eolie Islands, Pontine Islands and other minor islands

o Sardinia Ferries - Serving Sardinia

o Moby Lines - Serving Sardinia and Elba Island

Visit also http://www.ferriesonline.com for more information.

GENERAL FERRY INFORMATION

1. Most of the ferries allow cars, trailers and motorcycles on board. The most important thing to remember is to reserve your spot well in advance if you are planning to travel during the summer time. The islands are very popular during this time and ferries are very crowded as a result.

2. If you take your car (or other vehicle) on the ferry, remember to show up at least 2 hours (or even more) before the departure time. Companies reserve the right not only to refuse to let you on the ferry, but also not to refund your ticket if you arrive too late.

A ferry in the harbor of Naples

3. Many companies offer night crossings, especially to farther islands. Travelers can choose between cabins and regular seats (or the deck itself, but only in summer time and only on certain ships).

4. Bigger ships provide services such as restaurants, bars (coffee houses) and some even have small movie theaters.

5. Ticket prices vary according to the type of accommodation chosen (cabin, seat or deck), the type of vehicle, and date and time of the trip. Round trip fares are more convenient than one way. Tickets can be purchased at travel agencies or by contacting the ferry companies directly.

HIGHWAY TRAVELING

Italian highways are certainly another place were your adrenaline level increases considerably. Italians like high speed and hate slow cars blocking their way. They use horns and flashing headlights to show their "driver's feelings" in a very explicit way… This is what you should know before getting behind the wheel on a highway in Italy:

HIGHWAY PAYMENT SYSTEM

1. Let's start with the bad news: Italian highways are not free. If you plan to rent (noleggiare) a car and drive (guidare) around, be prepared to budget some expenses for highway tolls. Tolls (pedaggio) cannot be paid ahead of time and are only made at the toll booths.

2. When you enter the highway, you'll have in front of you several toll booths (caselli).

Highway toll booths

Pick the one that says biglietto or ticket and get a ticket from the machine (be careful not to enter the gates that say Telepass or Viacard Only, which are reserved for drivers that have purchased those passes, usually people that frequent the highways on a daily basis). The ticket tells you where you entered the highway, so don’t toss it: you’ll need it when it’s time to pay the toll at the highway exit.

Did you know?

Keep your highway ticket as a treasure, because, by law, the penalty for losing your ticket is a toll calculated on the farthest entry tollbooth.

Highway ticket machine

At smaller highway entrances, it may happen that the Telepass lane and the ticket lane are the same one. My only suggestion is: slow down and calmly try to figure out exactly where you have to go (ok, Mario is honking at you now, so what, just smile and let it be).

Telepass/ticket lane

Highway entrance booth

3. At the exit (uscita), there will again be several toll booths offering different payment methods:

Highway booths showing different payment options

o Cash The easiest choice for you is to go thru one of those booths marked biglietto, cassa con resto, or simply unmarked, where a clerk, or an

automatic machine, will collect your ticket and tell you how much you owe. At that point, you can pay with cash, or with a major credit card.

o Credit card only If you want to pay using your credit card, then look for a booth showing the major credit card logos (AmEx, Diners, Visa and MC are accepted). This booth usually corresponds to the Viacard booth, blue lane, and most of the time the payment is made thru an automatic machine. To use the machine, insert the highway ticket first, followed by the credit card.

Highway credit card/cash machine

o Viacard Viacard is a special magnetic card for frequent travelers. The most common type of Viacard is the prepaid one to be used until the credit runs out. Viacards may be purchased either at any Autogrill (the official highway restaurant) located at rest stops along the highway, or at some banks, some tobacconist shops, and fuel stations. With the Viacard you can either pay at the Viacard booth (recognizable by the big blue sign) or at the regular booth (if shown on the white sign- see

below). At the Viacard booth you'll have to insert the card in the paying machine after you have inserted the ticket that was given to you when you entered the highway. If you decide to pay at the regular booth, just give the card and ticket to the clerk. The Viacard card comes in denominations of €25, €50 or €75. This card may help you speed up the payment process, but as a tourist it may still be more convenient for you to use your own credit card.

o Telepass Telepass is a wireless device that is attached to the car windshield. It detects when you come thru the booth and bills your account automatically (therefore you need to have a bank account in Italy, which, for a tourist, is very unlikely to have). There is no need to stop. If you are not a Telepass holder try to avoid this exit, marked by a yellow sign, otherwise you may get stuck at the booth with drivers yelling behind you ☺

Telepass booth

Since this toll system is a little confusing (even for a veteran Italian driver), as a general rule and especially to make your travel much easier remember that:

Yellow is for Telepass holders only (which most likely it is not your case) and it is shown by this sign:

Blue is for payments only through credit cards, debit cards and Viacards (which may be an option even for a tourist). If this is your payment option, then look for this sign:

White is for cash payments only. If the sign shows a hand, that means that there is an operator helping you with the transaction.

But, if the sign shows no hand that means that there’s going to be an automatic machine at the booth. Plus, if the sign shows also the credit card logo, you can by credit card, debit car and Viacard as well.

REST AREAS

4. Rest areas (aree di servizio) are open 24/7 and are available about every 60 km (40 miles). Most often they have a gas station and a snack bar (with or without restaurant) also known as Autogrill.

Did you know?

Despite what you may think about “gas station” food, Autogrills offer excellent food either at the restaurant or at the snack bar.

If you decide to get something at the bar, remember to pay first and then show the receipt to the bar attendant at the service counter.

Autogrill restaurant sign

Autogrill restaurant

5. The Autogrill restrooms are taken care of by an attendant. A tip (usually €0.25 or €0.50) for the attendant is appreciated (although not mandatory). Autogrills have a small store which sells a handful of items for the car trip (food, music, drinks, drug-store necessities, etc.).

6. In these parking lots you may find fake car-park attendants whose goal is getting a little tip to watch your car. Thefts often happen in Autogrill parking lots, so giving them some spare change might actually turn out to be a good investment.

SIGN SYSTEM

7. The highway directions are indicated by referring to a main city, which is, of course, in Italian. So try to memorize the names of the major Italian cities before your trip:

Roma = Rome Firenze = Florence Venezia = Venice Milano = Milan Torino = Turin Napoli = Naples

Did you know?

The Italian Highways website will help you to plan your trip and get an estimate of your toll.

Venezia (Venice) highway sign

8. On the highway, electronic panels are used to inform or alert drivers about various things, such as road conditions or simply to remind them about basic driving rules.

Did you know?

“Mantenere la distanza di sicurezza” means “keep the safety distance (from one car to the other)”. Does it sound obvious to you? Well, in Italy it is not: you have no idea how many drivers love to drive “bumper to bumper” even at high speeds.

Highway electronic panel

9. The signs leading to the highway always have a green background. Bicycles and pedestrians are not allowed on the highway, and neither are horse-drawn carriages (yes, indeed, see the sign below…) or mopeds (motorini).

Did you know?

Highway exit signs show the name of the city or town in the nearest proximity; they don’t show the exit number as in the US.

Highway sign

GENERAL HIGHWAY INFORMATION

10. Italian highways usually have two or three lanes (corsie) plus an emergency lane. Always drive in the right (destra) lane, unless you want to pass (sorpassare) another vehicle. If you are driving in the left (sinistra) lane, there's a good chance that in few seconds another car will be tailing you (and probably flashing their lights at you). If this is the scenario, get back in the right lane right away. Unfortunately it is not unusual to find drivers riding your rear bumper, especially on the highway when they are trying to pass you. This is a typical bad Italian habit.

An “Italian style” car tailing at over 80 miles per hour

11. The speed limit (limite di velocita') is 130 km/h (80 mph), but you’ll find that this is not often respected and people may drive much faster in some cases.

12. During the week the highway can get overpopulated by huge trucks which take advantage of their heavy size and can sometime be a little scary when they try to pass you. To save yourself from getting stomach ulcers during your long-awaited vacation, keep in mind that on Sunday (domenica) trucks are not allowed on highways and you can drive at ease and with a smile on your face.

Truck “invasion” on the highway

13. There are SOS phones every 2 km (1.2 miles). Every phone has two buttons: one is to call the mechanical service, the other is to call the medical service. After you have pressed the button (bottone) you need to wait (aspettare) for the confirmation light (luce) to turn on. This will tell you that the SOS call has been received and that somebody is on the way to help (aiutare) you.

Did you know?

Dimmed headlights (luci anabbaglianti) must be turned on when traveling on the highway.

SOS post

Chapter 2 - Driving in Italy

DRIVING IN ITALY

You may have heard (or perhaps even seen for yourself) how crazy Italians are behind the wheel. Well, the truth is…. That's true! Most Italians are very reckless and arrogant when they drive. The driving law is probably the least respected law in Italy (I personally saw in Naples traffic policemen run a red light, and, no, it wasn't an emergency situation…). But this is part of your adventure in Italy, right? And this is also why I've compiled this (huge) list of hints to help you get ready to plunge into Italian traffic and eventually to enjoy your driving in Italy. Now, let me "drive" you to your first class in Italian Driving! ☺

ROAD SIGNS

1. Always pay attention to road signs (segnali) to avoid getting a ticket or being towed. These are the most important signs you should learn (imparare) before your trip:

Did you know?

The first and most important tip about driving in Italy is: try to avoid driving in big cities whenever possible. There is always a lot of traffic and Italians aren’t very patient when they drive. Besides, many city centers have large pedestrian areas where cars are not allowed. If you happen to spend a night or more in a big city, try to reserve in advance a hotel that has a parking area for its customers. On the other hand, driving a car for a visit to the countryside or the coast line is fairly easy and really enjoyable. No parking (restricted)

Did you know?

Street number schemes in Rome, Florence and Venice are a little bit odd. Here’s how they work:

o Rome (Roma): street numbers proceed down on one side of the street and back up on the other side. This for the entire length of the street regardless of how many blocks.

o Florence (Firenze): street numbers for commercial addresses are red, for residential addresses are blue or black.

No parking or halt anytime o Venice (Venezia): addresses are a combination of the name of one of the six Venetian neighborhoods plus a number with no sequential order.

I’d like to mention an excellent booklet which contains detailed maps of the main Italian cities along with a very useful index of all streets. It is called Tuttocitta’ and it comes with the Italian phone directory. You need to be a resident subscriber to get it, but if you have friends living in Italy ask them to borrow their copy. Otherwise you can use your charm to try getting it from your Italian hotel concierge or restaurateur ☺.

No vehicles allowed

No entry

Did you know?

Members of the EU can use their own driver's license to drive in Italy. All the other tourists, including those from the United States, need an International Driving Permit (IDP) in addition to their own driver's license.

Contact your local AAA (or any Automobile Association) to get an IDP (www.aaa.com). You will need to fill out a simple form, present 2 signed passport pictures and a $17.35 fee.

Maximum speed limit 70km/hr (top), Keep in mind that you may need an No passing (bottom) International Driving Permit when you pick up your rental car or if you are stopped, hopefully not, by the police. Regardless, it is indeed a good idea to get one, at least to be on the safe side.

Yield sign

One way

Did you know?

Italian drivers have a funny way of communicating: if somebody honks or flashes his lights at you from behind, it is very likely that he or she wants you to speed up. However if somebody flashes his lights at you coming from the opposite way, that means that you better slow down because Dead end (strada senza uscita) there's a police (polizia) checkpoint ahead checking the cars’ speed (Hey, I guess some Italian drivers are nice after all…).

Hospital Did you know?

Interesting fact for the summer tourists: it is forbidden by the law to drive wearing your flip flops. You can certainly wear your sandals, but not your thongs, since it is considered dangerous for your safety. Many Italians keep a second pair of shoes in the car for this purpose, since there is also the risk to be fined if you get caught by the police. Pedestrian area, no cars allowed

2. Sometimes you'll see two signs for the same town pointing in opposite directions (direzioni). This is no mistake (errore), it just means that both roads (strade) lead to the same destination (in the countryside this is very possible). Always try to figure out if the sign is giving you some other clues: in the picture below, for example, both roads lead to Venice, but one is the highway (green icon) and the other one is a state road (blue icon). If you are in doubt, check on a map which way should be more suitable for your trip or simply let a coin toss decide for you. ☺

Highway and state road signs to Venice

3. The following are the definitions of the different types of Italian roads (strade) and their signs:

o Autostrada: large and fast (veloce) toll highway with two or three lanes. The autostrada sign has a green background with a white letter "A" and a number.

Did you know?

Regular headlights (luci anabbaglianti) are mandatory when driving on the highway and Autostrada sign on roads outside the city limits.

o Superstrada: a one- or two-lane freeway connecting two cities. The superstrada sign has a blue background and a white number. Usually no toll is required.

o Strada statale (state road): small one-lane suburban road. The strada statale sign has a blue background and the white letters SS (which stand for strada statale) along with a number.

Strada Statale sign

4. When you come to a crossroads in Italy you may become disoriented by the multitude of signs. It may be hard to see the sign you are looking for while you are driving, especially if you see ten or more other signs. Italians have tried to make it easier by using different colors for their signage system:

o A blue background is used for city/town directions. The number next to the city name tells you the road number or how many kilometers you have to drive to get to the destination.

Did you know?

When it comes to traffic Sign to the City of Udine, 11 Kilometers circles (rotonde) remember that upon entering you need to yield to the cars already in the circle.

Strada Provinciale sign to the town of Reana. Road number: 38

o A green background is used for highway directions (tutte le direzioni means "all directions," that is to say that you need to take that direction to reach the main towns and cities in the area).

Did you know?

Speed limits are:

o 130 km/h (80 miles/h) on the freeway;

o 90 km/h (55 miles/h) on suburban roads;

o 50 km/h (31 miles/h) in the cities;

Green highway sign

o White signs are for hotel directions but also for public service places (such as police, hospitals, train stations, etc.). In this case a little icon accompanies the words to make the meaning clearer.

White hotel signs

Did you know?

Car seats (seggiolini per la macchina) are mandatory for children, however it is not unusual to see kids sitting on an adult's lap while riding in a car (I know, this is totally insane).

By law, all kids up to 5 years of age should use a child’s car seat. I personally suggest bringing your own car seat if you can, because some Italian models can be very different from the American ones and can also be hard to use.

White signs to police stations

o Signs with a brown (or yellow) background point the way to areas of tourist interest. Also in this case an icon will help you understand whether the place in question is a church, a museum, a theater, etc.

Brown tourist signs

o Detour signs have a yellow background and black writing.

Yellow detour (deviazione) sign

PARKING

5. When driving in the city, always try to park your car in a garage or a pay parking area for two reasons: first of all the car is safer in these places, second of all you definitely save your vacation time by parking your car right away instead of driving around for hours trying to find a free spot on the street, which is almost a miracle nowadays, with the streets being so crowded.

Parking areas are marked by signs with blue background and a white "P."

Did you know?

Each car must be equipped with a red triangle sign which has to be placed 50 meters (164 ft) behind the car whenever you have to stop on the road in case of a breakdown. Major rental car companies provide the red triangle. Also don't forget to put on the hazard lights if you have to pull over for an emergency.

Parking sign

If you really want to plan your trip in great detail, then visit http://www.parcheggi.it to locate on an interactive map the closest parking areas near a specific address (indirizzo) in the main Italian cities and airport areas. This website is in Italian only, so you need to know some basic Italian words (parole) to be able to navigate it.

The parking meter (parchimetro) is not very popular in Italy and is just now being slowly introduced.

6. In some areas you can park (parcheggiare) your car only for a certain amount of time. In this case a parking disc (disco orario) is required (if you don't have the disk you can use a piece of paper instead). You need to indicate on the disc (or piece of paper) the time you parked your car and put it face-up on the dash board so that the parking police can see it. Remember to come back to retrieve your vehicle within the time allowed (usually one or two hours; a sign in the parking lot will give you this information).

Did you know?

Since April 2004 it is required by law to wear a fluorescent jacket whenever you need to get off the car for emergency reasons, such as to position the red triangle or to change a tire (and especially at night or when it is foggy). So don’t be surprised if you'll find one in your rental car.

Disco orario

Disco orario sign showing that the allowed parking time is one hour

7. Always pay attention to the color of the lines on the pavement when you park you car:

blue lines = pay parking white lines = free parking yellow lines = disabled parking

Did you know?

The driver's license, car documents and a valid ID (carta d'identita') must be carried in the car at all time.

Yellow and blue parking lines

8. If you park your car in a pay parking spot, you need to pay the parking attendant or at the meter. Many meters accept bills, but most of them only take coins (monete), one more reason to have some Euro change with you all the time. Once you have inserted your money in the machine, a receipt (scontrino) will be printed. Take it and put it on the car windshield. The receipt will either show how long you can leave your car in the parking lot (2 hours for example) or when the parking time started (for example you parked your car at 12:01pm).

Did you know?

Do not turn right at a red traffic light (semaforo) because it is illegal. The traffic lights in Italy are all timed (none of them have sensors installed in the ground as you may have experienced in the United States). You just have to wait for your light to turn green and then go. That said, keep in mind that if you are driving in Rome or Naples chances are that they may honk at you even if you stop at a red traffic light…

Parking meter

9. Always check the signs on the street as in some cities it is forbidden (vietato) to park your car in certain areas such as squares (piazze) or streets (strade) on certain days of the week (settimana). It may happen that the following day they have to clean the street or there may be a weekly market that takes over the entire street, and as much as you may have fallen in love with Italian cuisine at this point, you certainly don't want to wake up in the morning and find a cheese stand where you parked your car the night before, right?

No parking on Monday (Lunedi) from 6am to 2pm. Space reserved for weekly market.

Did you know?

In case of a breakdown call the ACI, the Automobile Club d’Italia (like the American AAA) whose toll-free number is 803-116. English-speaking operators will assist you. In case of a car accident call the emergency services (112 or 113).

Tow Away Zone from 6am-3pm on Thursday (Giovedi, abbr. Gio), or Friday (Venerdi, abbr. Ven.) if Thursday is a holiday.

MOPEDS

10. Mopeds (motorini) are very popular in Italy and in many ways they act like the Kings of the Road, so you better watch out for them because it is likely that they won't watch out for you!

Mopeds on a city street

Mopeds parking

11. Mopeds are everywhere and it is not unusual at all to find them parked on the sidewalk (marciapiede) or squeezed between cars. A helmet (casco) is mandatory on two wheeled vehicles, except for bicycles (biciclette).

Mopeds squeezed in a parking attempt

PARKING “ITALIAN STYLE”

12. Not only mopeds are squeezed between cars, but also cars are squeezed between other cars!

A tight parking job…

A “kiss” between cars

13. It is not unusual to find cars parked in the so called seconda fila (second row). It often happens that drivers have to stop only for "a couple of minutes" and don't bother to find a parking spot, which is usually hard to find anyway, so they basically leave their cars in the middle of the street. If you happen to be trapped by a car parked in a second row, this is what you need to do:

o Check on the “guilty car” windshield if there is any note left by the driver saying where he/she may be found;

o Ask in the bars (coffee houses) and stores nearby if they know who or where the owner of the car is;

o Start honking loudly! Sooner or later the car owner will pop out ☺.

Typical second-row parking

14. Italians are very creative at finding parking spots for their cars. They will park on the sidewalk, in parking areas reserved for mopeds, on the crosswalk, in the middle of a crossroads, it doesn't matter: if they see that there is enough room for their car, they don't hesitate to occupy the space, even if it is illegal! Take a look at this:

Did you know?

A map may save you a lot of time and stress. Get a good road map before your car trip. The following website may help you find the right one: http://www.italy-maps.com/

Sidewalk parking

Car parked in a moped parking lot

Car parked on a crosswalk

Cars parked in the middle of a crossroads

GAS STATIONS

15. In Italy there are many self-service gas stations (distributori di benzina), however the majority of gas stations are operated by an attendant who fills the tank for you. It is a good idea to check the pump meter and make sure it is set to zero before the attendant starts filling the tank. Also, don’t forget to ask in advance if credit cards are accepted.

Did you know?

If you decide to have an attendant filling your tank keep in mind that most likely you'll need to pay an extra fee for this service which is usually applied to the cost of the gas itself.

This site provides daily updates on the cost of gas in Italy: http://www.prezzibenzina.it

Gas station attendant

16. Many Italian gas stations are located off the side of the road and their office is often a shed on the sidewalk.

A gas station office on the sidewalk

17. Gasoline (benzina) is very expensive in Italy, a fill-up (pieno) costs approximately €50 (depending on the car of course). At the time of this writing the unleaded gas price has been fluctuating around €1.20 per liter (about $6+ per gallon!).

A brief note: Benzina senza piombo (abbr. senza Pb) means unleaded gas, while gasolio means diesel. Don’t get confused: give the right “drink” to your car!

Did you know?

During the night, when the traffic is light, some traffic signals will switch to a flashing yellow. This is especially true on secondary roadways. If you see one of these flashing orange lights, just slow down and move carefully thru the intersection, and always remember to yield to any vehicles coming from your right.

Gas price (Euro/Liter) as of December 2008

18. Gas stations are open Monday (lunedi') through Friday (venerdi’) from around 7:30am to 12:30pm and from 3pm to 7pm. They take a “siesta” between the two shifts. On Saturday they are open only in the morning.

Did you know?

In Italy, as in most of the European countries and in the US, people drive on the right (destra) and pass on the left (sinistra). In Italy, however, be prepared to be passed from both sides…

Gas station hours

During the weekends and holidays they operate on shifts (check the local newspaper to get a list of those that are open).

Keep in mind that the gas stations on the highway are always open and that many gas stations that during the day operate with an attendant offer self- service during the closed hours.

If a gas station is closed, then a big sign saying chiuso is displayed. If it is open, the sign says aperto.

Closed sign Open sign

CAR DETAILS

19. Italian cars have smaller trunks compared to their American counterparts; that’s because their trunk space is proportional to the dimensions of the cars themselves. This could be a problem if you travel with a lot of luggage, so try to travel light (or get a bigger car). Here are some examples of some typical Italian cars:

Smart

FIAT Cinquecento

Renault Scenic (a smaller version of a typical minivan)

20. There are two different kinds of license plates: the old ones, which have the initials of the car's province of residence and five or six numbers,

Very old license plates Plates before 1994

and the new ones (made after 1994), which have a combination of numbers and letters between two blue vertical lines. The new license plates are made in compliance with the European Union plates and last for the life of the car.

New license plates

MISCELLANEOUS

21. If you happen to be a pedestrian (pedone) in Italy, always be very careful when you cross the street: don’t take it for granted that the cars are going to stop even if you are in the middle of the crosswalk (strisce pedonali).

Car blocking the crosswalk

22. Sometimes what can appear to be a one-way road is actually a lane coming from the opposite direction. This lane is reserved for buses and cabs and is marked in yellow. Always look in both directions before crossing a street, if you don't want to get mashed like a potato…

Yellow line reserved for buses and cabs—watch out!

To end this chapter I'd like to mention the Italian film maker Bruno Bozzetto, who made a very funny flash movie about driving in Italy (among other things). You can view it on YouTube by searching “Italians vs. Europeans”.

Chapter 3 – Italian Cuisine

RESTAURANTS

I know, I know, people love Italy because of its culture, art, history, fashion, but let's admit it, Italy is well-known around the world especially for its food and, of course, wine. Italian restaurants populate the entire globe, but many of them offer only a nice imitation of real Italian food. Do you want to taste real Italian food? Then go to Italy, or come over to my place! ☺ The following information will ensure that you have a delectable and memorable culinary experience during your visit to Italy.

TABLE CHARGES AND TIPPING

1. There are three main things to know when you go to a restaurant in Italy:

o The first one is that there is virtually no bad restaurant in Italy ☺

o The second one is that there is a fixed charge, called coperto, applied by the majority of the restaurants. The coperto is applied for the simple reason that you occupy a set table (tavolo), therefore it is meant to cover all the expenses related to it (such as flowers, silver, tablecloths, bread, etc.). The coperto is usually about €2 per person, but eventually the cost depends on the type of restaurant.

Did you know?

If you leave a tip, leave it in cash. If for any reason you leave without leaving a tip, nobody will ever ask you if there was something wrong with your lunch or dinner. Tips are always well accepted, of course, but they are not a customary rule as in the States.

A menu showing the coperto charges (lower right corner).

o Third thing to know is that many times there is another charge (last one, I promise) called servizio which is a percentage for the service provided, in other words the tip (mancia) for the waiter (cameriere). This charge is automatically added to the bill (conto) and when this happens it'll say servizio incluso or servizio compreso. If not, it will say servizio non incluso or servizio non compreso.

If the servizio is included and it's more than 15%, then the tip is not necessary (unless you want to double-tip the waiter since he has been bravissimo). On the other hand, if it is not included, adding a 10% to 15% tip (mancia) will make the waiter very happy.

Also, remember that the tax is always included in the bill.

Restaurant receipt showing the servizio cost: €2,50 (by the way this is the receipt for 2 pizzas, 2 sodas and one dessert)

BEVERAGES

2. If you order a soda or water (acqua) don't expect the drink to be served with ice (ghiaccio). Although drinks (bibite) are served cold (fredde), ice is not common at all: you'll need to specify it at the time of the order. Italians think that ice corrupts the original taste of the drink.

Did you know?

Birra alla spina means beer on draft. Restaurants offer both draft and bottled beer.

Coke with no ice, the standard in Italy…

3. When you order water, you will be asked if you prefer it naturale (flat) or frizzante or gassata (sparkling). Both types of water, naturale and frizzante, are usually served in bottles (bottiglie) of half a liter or one liter. Remember: there is always a charge for these. If you don’t want to pay for your water, you must ask for acqua di rubinetto (tap water), keeping in mind that it may have a chlorinated taste…

One liter and half a liter of flat and sparkling water

4. Sometimes wines are listed separately, but many times they are included in the main menu. Vino sfuso means that the wine is presented in pitchers (brocche) instead of bottles (and usually it has been produced by local wineries), vino della casa (house wine) means that the wine has been produced by the restaurant itself. Both types of wine can be ordered by the glass, half liter or liter.

Pitchers and bottle of wine

DINING ITALIAN STYLE

5. A typical Italian meal is made of :

o Antipasto: appetizer The antipasto usually includes cold cuts (such as salami, ham, mortadella) along with cheese and pickles. But it could also be made of bruschetta, olives, prosciutto crudo (air-cured ham) with cantaloupe, and any other light food to be eaten while waiting for the main courses.

Bruschette (made by my mother-in-law!)

o Primo: first course The most famous primo is of course pasta, but it could also be soup, rice, gnocchi, polenta, ravioli or tortellini. A very popular sauce for the primo is the ragú, which is a ground meat sauce.

o Secondo: second course For the second course (secondo), Italians eat many different kinds of meat: fish, pork, chicken, veal, lamb, wild boar and rabbit. In the finest restaurants it’s not unusual to find frog legs or snails listed on the menu.

o Contorno: side dish The contorno is what accompanies a dish and it usually includes salads (dressed simply with olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper), French fries, peas, beans, etc.

o Formaggi: cheeses Many restaurants offer cheese before the dessert. However, this course is usually skipped because at this point in the meal one is usually full… and quite happy ☺.

o Dolce: dessert Ahh… Dolce! While there may not be room for formaggi, there is always room for dessert, right? Tiramisú, panna cotta and gelato are among the most traditional Italian desserts. Fruit or fruit salad (macedonia) can also be ordered instead, if you are looking for something a little lighter.

o Coffee After the dessert (and not with it), Italians drink coffee (see the chapter "bar" for more details on Italian coffee and its many varieties).

o Dinner drinks Now certainly, you may be thinking the list (and meal) should be over. Well, there is one more thing Italians do at the end of their meal: they take the digestivo (digestive liquor) or amaro to help their stomach to deal with such a large amount of food it has to work on. The digestivo (served in small, two-inch-tall glasses) is a very bitter liquor made of herbs In many restaurants, especially in northern Italy, people also drink grappa, which is a very strong liquor made from grape skins. Sometimes a drop of grappa is added to the coffee at the end of a meal.

Did you know?

Usually the order is made in two phases: the first one includes the choice of the antipasto, primo and secondo (with side dish).

Then, once you are done eating, the waiter will come back and ask if you wish to have a dessert, coffee or liquor.

A drop of Grappa in the coffee to happily end a meal

THE ITALIAN MENU

6. The typical Italian menu will list the dishes in the above-mentioned order, which may be confusing as in many countries people are used to eating only one dish (piatto) with everything else included. In fact, Italian portions are smaller than American ones, so it is not going to be too overwhelming to order an antipasto, a primo and a secondo. If you are not very hungry you can certainly order only one or two dishes.

7. If the menu offers too many inviting options, then ask for assaggini (also called trio di primi) which is a dish that combines usually three (sometimes two or four) different small portions. For example: let’s suppose you are uncertain if you want to try that delicious pasta al pesto or tortellini alla panna, or even those inviting gnocchi al ragu’ that the person next to you is happily eating. In these circumstances ask the waiter to bring you a plate of assaggini with those specific dishes, and your wish will soon come true…

8. When the menu offers dishes with meat, fish or truffle, in the price section instead of the price you'll find some abbreviations such as s.q. (secondo quantita' = based on the quantity), p.v. (prezzo a vendere = price to be determined) or costo per etto (cost for 100 grams—before cooking—which corresponds to about 3 ounces). Always ask how much the approximate cost of the dish is to avoid costly surprises.

Did you know?

All restaurateurs are required by law to indicate on their menu if the fish is fresh or frozen. The asterisks in this picture are used with this purpose: in this case the double asterisk stands for frozen fish, while the single one stands for fresh fish.

Fourth line from top shows an example of cost for 100 grams (etto)

9. You may be surprised by the enormous regional variety in the Italian cuisine: menus look extremely different from one region to another and sometimes same dishes can have different names due to the dialect influence of that particular area. The best way to approach this “problem” is simply to ask the waiter for a brief explanation or just to take the risk and… order whatever sounds nicer to you ☺.

PIZZA

10. As you may imagine, the pizzerie are establishments specializing in pizza. You may find that many of them offer not only pizza but regular dinners as well (pizzeria ristorante).

Did you know?

If you decide to have a pizza, then order one per person as they are not as big and rich as the American ones. You can eat it with your hands if you want to, but the native Italians sitting at the other tables may think you are a monkey! Seriously though, in Italy when eating pizza your hands should only be used to hold your fork and knife. The pizza in Italy is much lighter, with less topping, and you probably won’t see pineapple or chicken pizza anywhere.

Ristorante pizzeria

11. A good pizza must be cooked in a wood-burning oven (forno a legna) and doesn't have to have a very oily crust.

Pizzas baked in a wood-burning oven

Usually the best pizzaioli come from southern Italy

12. Not all Italian pizzerias offer exactly the same assortment of pizzas, but most usually offer many different choices, which can be upwards of 20 different

types. All that wonderful diversity aside, the most traditional pizzas in Italy are:

o Margherita: tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese.

o Marinara: tomato sauce and garlic with no cheese.

o Napoletana: tomato sauce, mozzarella, anchovies and capers.

o Quattro stagioni: tomato sauce, mozzarella, ham, mushrooms and artichokes.

o Quattro formaggi: tomato sauce, mozzarella, Asiago cheese, Gorgonzola cheese and Parmesan.

o Romana: tomato sauce, mozzarella and anchovies.

o Diavola: tomato sauce, mozzarella and hot peppers.

Italian pizzas (I ate the one on the right: simple but extremely good)

IMPORTANT RESTAURANT TERMINOLOGY

13. Other definitions:

o Tavola calda means self-service restaurant.

o Enoteca is a place specializing in wine where you can also taste very simple food like cold cuts, sandwiches and appetizers of many kinds.

o Paninoteca is a place specializing in panini (sandwiches).

o Birreria are pub-style restaurants which are usually quite large and offer a wide range of national and international beers (birre) along with simple dishes such as sandwiches, hamburgers with French fries, sausages with vegetables and much more.

o Ristorante, trattoria, osteria, locanda. These eating establishments rank in this order: the restaurant usually is the most elegant place to eat by definition, the trattoria stands in the middle while the osteria and the locanda are the most casual venues. However, nowadays this order often loses its meaning as some locande can be very fancy and more expensive than restaurants.

o Cucina casalinga means that the restaurant is run by a family and the food is simple and authentic.

GENERAL RESTAURANT INFORMATION

14. Italians enjoy their meals in a very relaxed way, with no rush at all. As a result, the waiter will come to you only if you call him, because he/she considers it impolite to "interrupt" your meal (pasto) every few minutes to check on your status. When you are ready to go, you must ask for the check (conto), as it is never assumed by the waiter as to precisely when your lunch or dinner is over.

15. In many restaurants lunch is cheaper than dinner (this is important to know if you want to save money on the same dishes). While reservations are not usually necessary for lunches (except in very formal restaurants), they are recommended for dinners. This is mainly because restaurateurs take only one reservation per table for each dinner (or lunch). If you don’t already know, Italian meals last two to three hours, so once you reserve a table it is yours for the night. Yes, Italians definitely love “slow food.”

16. All restaurants in Italy have the obligation to issue a receipt (scontrino or ricevuta fiscale) which you have to take with you once you leave the restaurant. To fight tax evasion, occasionally it happens that government agents check if a receipt has been provided. If not, both the restaurateur and the customer get a fine.

17. As of January 14, 2005, it is prohibited (vietato) to smoke (fumare) in all restaurants, bars and pubs. However some restaurants are allowed to have a smoking area well separated from the non-smoking area.

18. On every restaurant table you'll find a set of olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and toothpicks. Bread and grissini (special thin breadsticks) will already be on the table or come right after you order. If you order a primo, then some grated Parmesan cheese will be served. If the waiter doesn’t bring you the cheese it means that it doesn’t go with that particular dish. For example, Italians never put cheese on fish dishes.

Did you know?

Italy does have its share of fast food restaurants, however none of them are drive-thru. In Italy if you want fast food, you have to physically go into the restaurant to get it.

The “basics” of the Italian table

19. Most restaurants have a weekly closing day which is usually displayed on the entrance door by a red and blue sign that says Questo esercizio rimane chiuso and shows the day. This is something to keep in mind if you don't want to drive long miles to try a recommended restaurant and find it closed. So be sure to find out which days they are open before you go.

Did you know?

If you travel with kids don’t expect a high chair (seggiolone) to be in every restaurant you visit. Also, consider yourself lucky if there is a changing table (fasciatoio) in the restroom. Even though restaurants in Italy don't have many kid-friendly facilities, restaurant managers are usually very friendly and sympathetic, and will try to help you as best as they can, like providing smaller portions if there isn't a child menu or cushions in case a high chair is not provided.

“Closed on Monday” sign

21. If the restaurant closes for vacation it will say Chiuso per ferie.

Did you know?

Even though Italians love to be well dressed, you will rarely find men wearing a jacket and tie unless the purpose of their lunch/dinner is business. In general, a neat and casual style is always good for both men and women while dining out.

A Chiuso per ferie sign

22. In Italy lunch is usually between noon and 2pm, while dinner is between 7:30pm and 9:30pm. The further south you go, the later you eat.

Try to get to the restaurant before 2pm (or 9:30pm), because if you order your meal before 2pm (or 9:30pm), then you can stay in the restaurant as long as you want, but if you arrive after 2pm (or 9:30pm) you risk being turned away.

23. Last but not least: when in doubt about choosing a restaurant, avoid those with a tourist menu shown outside the establishment. Instead, try to figure out if there are any Italians among the customers, because if there are, then the food must be delicious! Buon appetito!

Chapter 4 – Grocery Stores & Other Food Establishments

GROCERY STORES

If dining at restaurants seems too expensive or if you wish to spend more of your time doing other things, then head for a grocery store (alimentari) or supermarket. This way you’ll get everything you need for a quick and simple picnic or a meal on the go, with more time to experience exciting Italian works of art and culture!

Keep also in mind that it’s an Italian tradition to close stores for the afternoon “siesta.” This rule applies to any kind of store.

ALIMENTARI ~ SUPERMARKET

1. In Italy alimentari and supermercati are members of the same family. The only difference lies in the size and scope: alimentari are all-purpose food stores, they are mini supermarkets and are usually family owned; whereas supermarkets sell food (cibo), drinks, drug products, and other general items.

Alimentari is a great choice when you need a fast, simple and delicious meal. They have a section with regular merchandise goods and a deli section where they sell cheese (formaggio), bread (pane), salami, and other fresh products. At the deli counter they serve one client at a time. Some times you need to get a number (numero) and in other cases you simply need to remember who is before and after you. Alimentari are a great way to get closer to the Italian culture and tradition. Usually the people behind the counter are very friendly and great talkers!

Did you know?

Many of these grocery stores make sandwiches on demand: just pick the type of bread and filling you prefer and they will fix it for you.

It's a cheap way of having a great meal and tasting Italian food at the same time. You just might be pleasantly surprised at how tasty and satisfying eating this way in Italy can be.

An alimentari shop

GENERAL GROCERY STORE INFORMATION

2. While Alimentari are great for satisfying your hunger and picking up a few items, there are times when nothing but a supermarket will do! In big supermarkets carts (carrelli) are free to use but you often need a Euro coin deposit to unlock the cart from the rack. The coin is given back once you put the cart away.

A supermarket cart operated by €1

3. Once at the cash register (cassa), it is likely that nobody will ask you if you want paper or plastic bags, because plastic is usually the only option. Only few stores now offer also paper and biodegradable plastic bags, but this kind of bags are more expensive than the regular plastic ones, which cost around €0.5 a piece (yes, they are not free). If you want to save this money (soldi) bring your own bags (borse), otherwise look under the cashier counter and you'll find them.

Did you know?

At the cash register there is no one helping you to place your groceries in the bags; you have to do it yourself. Also, don’t expect help carrying bags to your car; there is no such service in Italy.

Supermarket plastic bags under the cash register counter

4. Most supermarkets provide parking, however the ones located in the city centers lack parking areas most of the time. Stores located in the shopping malls (centri commerciali) usually have plenty of parking, sometimes for a fee.

5. When you buy fruit and vegetables, remember to weigh them before you check out at the register. Sometimes there is a person who does it for you, but most of the time you have to do it yourself. You may also be required to use a plastic glove (guanto), provided by the supermarket, to touch (toccare), select and choose the fruit and vegetables you want to buy. Most of the time the scale used to weight your items shows the pictures of the fruit and vegetables. When it doesn't, it shows a number corresponding to the product you need to weigh (pesare).

Did you know?

Unlike in the States, in Italy you cannot use your debit card to get cash back at a store. Credit card payments are becoming more and more popular, but you should always have enough cash with you to do your shopping, just in case they don’t accept debit or credit cards. A good rule of thumb is to ask weather or not they accept your card before you shop.

A fruit and vegetable scale

6. In Italy there are no supermarkets open 24 hours a day. Bigger stores are usually open from 8am to 9pm. Small alimentari are open (aperti) from around 8:30am to 1pm and then again from 4pm to 7:30pm (these also are closed on Sunday and usually one or two afternoons during the week).

7. Supermarkets do sell liquors, but only the main brands. To buy more specific brands, you need to go to a liquor store.

8. Most supermarkets don't provide ATM machines inside their facilities, except in big malls. ATM services are usually available nearby (vicino) or at any major bank.

ITALIAN PRODUCTS TO BRING BACK HOME

Supermarkets can be a goldmine of great items! So don't forget to fill your suitcase with Italian products that you can’t find in your own country.

9. I surveyed my Italian friends to see what they bring back to the States after a trip to Italy. These are their top 10 choices:

o Coffee (the most popular brands are Lavazza and Illy).

o Parmesan cheese (vacuum-packed cheese is available in every big grocery store and can be brought into the States).

o Extra-virgin olive oil. The choice is wide, but a lot depends on how much you want to spend. Usually the ones sold in dark green glass bottles are the best.

o Wine. I include this item in the list even though a wide range of Italian wines are available virtually everywhere. However there is a liquor, called grappa, which is hard to find in the States and is very popular among Italians. Try it, it's worth it.

o Tuna in extra-virgin olive oil.

o Spices for meat and fish dishes. The most famous one is called Ariosto and it's a blend of the main aromatic herbs used in the Italian cuisine.

o Cookies and pastry products: everything which is branded Mulino Bianco and Ferrero is worth trying.

o Panna da cucina: this is a thicker version of whipping cream and it doesn't need to be refrigerated. Italians use the panna to make delicious tortellini or pasta dishes.

o Senape (mustard). Orco is the brand I recommend. Italians use the senape with their meat dishes, especially sausages, but also chicken and pork.

o If you are a chocolate lover, try the chocolate products by Kinder. The Kinder products are mainly targeted at kids, but in fact have consumers of any age (ok, I admit it: I'm one of them…).

Top Italian products to bring back home: Upper row from left: Ariosto, wine, Senape, Grappa, olive oil, pastries by Kinder. Lower row from left: Parmesan cheese, tuna in extra-virgin olive oil, Panna da Cucina, Lavazza coffee, chocolate bars by Kinder, cookies by Mulino Bianco.

SPECIALTY FOOD STORES

Italy swarms with specialty food stores, which gives an idea of how important food is for the average Italian. You may find prices a little more expensive compared to a traditional supermarket, but the quality and the service are higher most of the time. Now, let's delight our palate with some food images, yum:

o Caseificio is a store specializing in cheese and milk related products (formaggio).

A cheese store

o Enoteca is a store that sells wine (vino). It could also be a wine bar where you can eat light food to accompany your drink.

Happy Italian people drinking wine in an Enoteca

o Frutta e Verdura is a fruit and vegetable store.

o Gastronomia is a store (negozio) that sells food to go (per asporto). This is an option to consider in case you want to eat (mangiare) delicious Italian food without spending a fortune. Here you usually find the most typical Italian dishes at a very good price (prezzo).

Did you know?

Some gastronomie also offer sitting areas on the premises which make them an excellent alternative to the classical restaurant.

Gastronomia food

o Gelateria: this is a name to learn by heart before your trip to Italy! Gelateria is an ice-cream shop. The ice cream is offered in a cup (coppetta) or on a cone (cono).

Did you know?

In Italy every Gelateria has a machine to make whipping cream (panna). You can order a cup or cone of your favorite ice cream and then add some whipping cream on top. And if you ask for some syrup (chocolate, cherry, crème caramel, etc.) to be added on the whipping cream, then you’ll get an amazing gelato con panna. This is something I really miss here in the States

Cones and cups

You can either take your ice cream to go or if you prefer you can sit (sedere) at a table to taste this famous Italian treat. A complete ice cream menu will be given to you, and most of the time pictures will help you decide which ice cream will make your day…

Did you know?

When you enter in a gelateria, don't expect to find a selection of toppings like in the States. Sprinkles, M&Ms, Oreo cookies, etc., are totally banned!

Gelati menu

In every Italian gelateria ice cream is usually divided in two groups: fruit flavored (banana, strawberry, cantaloupe, lemon, etc...) and cream (vanilla, pistachio, chocolate, coffee, etc.). Ice cream is served using a round or flat scoop.

Did you know?

The signs that say gelato artigianale or gelato di produzione propria are a guarantee of quality as they indicate that the ice cream has been produced in the store with selected ingredients.

A scoop of ice cream

o Latteria is a milk-based product shop. Here you can find fresh milk (latte), butter (burro), cheese, yogurt, sometimes ice cream, cookies (biscotti), etc. Most of the latterie also have a coffee bar where people enjoy their drink and a chat with the owner.

o Macelleria is a butcher shop.

Customers in a macelleria

o Panetteria or Panificio is a bakery shop. Many kinds of bread (pane), cookies, cakes (torte) and pastries (paste) are sold in this store.

Bread sold in a Panetteria

o Pasticceria is a store specializing in sweets (dolci). It sells mainly pastry products, cookies, chocolate and candies. Italian pastries aren't usually as rich or big as the American ones; many of them can be eaten in one or two bites. Many pasticcerie have a coffee bar.

Italian pastries

o Pastificio is a fresh pasta shop. It sells many different kinds of pasta along with tortellini, ravioli, gnocchi, and other products to take away and cook (cucinare) at home.

Tortellini, ravioli, pasta sold in a pastificio

o Pescheria is a fish (pesce) shop.

Fish shop

o Pizza al taglio is a shop that sells pizza and focaccia (white pizza with only one topping) by weight (peso). The pizza is usually sold in square slices, but sometimes in regular slices.

Focacce

Did you know?

In the pizza menus you may find the word supplemento along with a price. Supplemento means extra topping, and it can be any of the ingredients you find in the menu itself (eggplant, ham, mozzarella, cheese, mushrooms, artichokes, and so on). Each supplemento can cost €1 or more.

A pizza al taglio shop

o Salumeria is a delicatessen shop selling mainly salami, sausages, cheese, olives, oil, and sometimes take-away food.

Sausages and cheese in a salumeria

o Torrefazione is a coffee shop selling roasted and ground coffee beans. A coffee bar is usually on the premises.

ITALIAN FOOD MISCONCEPTIONS

This is a brief chapter that will clarify some typical mistakes and misinterpretations of Italian cuisine all around the world. Let's start with the “oh, so popular” Alfredo Sauce…

10. Alfredo Sauce or, Salsa Alfredo, is more of a myth than a reality and you are not going to find it in any real Italian recipe books. There is a restaurant in Rome which makes the original fettuccine Alfredo, but that is made with butter and Parmesan cheese. The only product that somehow resembles Salsa Alfredo (Alfredo Sauce) is called panna (which is a thicker version of whipping cream). I suggest you do not ask for Alfredo Sauce when you are in a restaurant because the vast majority of the people will not know what you are talking about.

11. The Italian soda is definitely something that has been made up in the States.

12. The American "Italian dressing" is another myth to bust. The original Italian dressing is simply extra-virgin olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. You'll find all of these ingredients on the tables of every Italian restaurant, so that anybody can make his/her own dressing.

13. In Italy peperoni (yes, with one 'p') means peppers, while salame piccante means pepperoni.

14. Italians do not use lots of garlic (especially garlic powder on the pizza) as is commonly thought in the USA. Italians do use garlic alright, but in reasonable proportions.

15. Last but not least: you won’t find macaroni and cheese anywhere in Italy. What you’ll find is maccheroni which is one of the hundreds of types of (short) pasta.

COFFEE HOUSES

I used to work as a travel agent for a company specializing in Italian vacation rentals, and one day I was talking to a customer who wanted to get some information about the neighborhood in which she would be staying while in Italy. When I started explaining to her that there were not only many stores but also bars in the home’s vicinity, she interrupted me loudly "Bars?!?!?" Only at that point did I realize that what Italians call a “bar” is actually what Americans call a coffee house.

GENERAL COFFEE HOUSE INFORMATION

16. As I said, in Italy the word bar means coffee house, so don’t get shocked if you see so many of them around… In the Italian bar people mainly get coffee, sandwiches, wine, ice cream, pastries, soft drinks and oddly enough, unlike the American coffee house, beer. I know, now you might be thinking it sounds more like an American bar because of the beer, but it’s really much more like a café or coffee shop than a pub or bar. Besides, a lot of Italians have breakfast here. Italian bars do carry alcoholic beverages, but these are rarely consumed during the day. Since the bar is actually a coffee house, kids of any age are allowed in.

Did you know?

Bars are usually open from 7:30am to 8pm (they open earlier and close later in big cities). No siesta time for bars; they are open all day long.

A typical Italian bar

17. In many bars you need to pay before consuming your coffee, drink, or whatever you order. This is to avoid people leaving the bar without paying. What you need to do is: pay at the cash register, take the receipt and give it to the bartender. The bartender will tear or stamp the receipt and then he/she will give you what you ordered. Before leaving, remember to take the receipt with you. You must do it by law. This law has the goal to protect the State from being cheating out of the tax. In Italy there are those who cheat by not paying for the coffee and those who cheat by not paying the tax on the coffee…

18. Many people are surprised when, after paying for coffee or whatever you had at a bar, the cashier puts the change on a small plate next to the register instead of giving it directly to you. The plate creates a kind of "transition area" for the money going from you to the cashier and, as in the case of your change, from the cashier back to you. This "plate rule" actually applies to most stores.

The plate for the change

19. While consuming your drink you can stand at the bar (al banco) or sit at the table (al tavolo). If you stand at the bar you pay less compared to sitting at a table (sometimes a lot less…).

Did you know?

Bars are also usually very friendly places with many repeat customers who know the bartender by name. It is an Italian tradition to meet in a bar for a coffee or a bicchierino (a small glass of wine). Many retired people regularly hang out at bars for several hours, socializing with friends and discussing politics, the latest happenings in their town, in the world and their neighbors’ lives (“Gossipland” ). Standing at the bar (by the way, this is my friend Marco ☺ )

Sitting at a table

20. In January 2005, Italy has introduced a new law that prohibits anybody to smoke in restaurants, coffee shops and other public services. Oddly enough, Italians have reacted positively to this law. Business owners have promptly installed high tables, external gas heaters and plenty of ash trays outside their premises. The result is a win-win situation where customers inside can enjoy a smoke- free environment, and smokers outside can still have their cigarette while practicing some people watching.

Smokers are welcome… outside the bar

21. Bars offer a great place for people watching, which is also a very Italian hobby that you should consider trying at least once. You may end up enjoying it!

People-watching at a bar

Did you know?

Note how these two ladies are well dressed: in Italy people really care about the way they dress, even if they have to go out just for a few minutes to run some errands. You'll never see women wearing hair curlers or men wearing flip flop in January…

Two elderly women exchange the latest news by smoking a cigarette and watching people (I love this picture; aren’t they cute?)

ITALIAN COFFEE VARIETIES

22. The following section is dedicated to the different kinds of Italian coffee. In Trieste, where I’m from and where the “Illy” brand coffee is produced, you can actually find more than 60 different kinds of coffee…. The original Italian coffee is what Italians call caffe' espresso (or simply caffe').

o Caffe' espresso (or simply caffe’) is very concentrated as it is made with less water.

o Caffe' lungo is made with more water even though the amount of coffee is always the same. The caffe' lungo is still served in small cups.

o Cappuccino is an espresso with milk served in a large cup and with foam on top. The Italian cappuccino is smaller than the American one.

o Caffe' macchiato is an espresso with a drop of milk and foam on top.

o Latte macchiato (not to be confused with caffe’ macchiato) is a glass of milk with a drop (stain) of coffee.

o Caffe’ latte is a foamless espresso to which some warm milk has been added.

o Caffe' americano is a very diluted espresso served in a large cup.

o Caffe' corretto is an espresso with a shot of liquor (usually Grappa or another liquor of your choice).

o Caffe' Hag is a decaffeinated espresso

o Caffe’ con panna is an espresso topped with whipped cream

Caffe' espresso (top right), macchiato (top left) and cappuccino (bottom)

Chapter 5 – Retail Stores & Money Handling

RETAIL STORES

This chapter is dedicated to the different types of stores in Italy. The pictures will give you a clearer idea about how they are structured and how to identify them. The charts will also help you to know (conoscere) the different sizes (misure) for clothing (abbigliamento) and shoes (scarpe), because if my intuition serves me, I know at least someone in your party will come back home with a pair of Italian shoes…

STORE HOURS

1. In Italy stores are usually open from around 8:30am to 12:30pm and then from around 4pm to 7:30pm. Some stores, especially in bigger cities, may offer service all day, or as it is referred to in Italy, “orario continuato,” or “non- stop” service.

Store hours

2. Most shops are also closed on Sunday and usually on Monday, but this may change from city to city and from season to season, as in summer they may offer extended hours to accommodate tourists’ needs. Generally speaking though, the mid-day "siesta" is always respected.

3. August (agosto) is a tricky month as almost half of the Italian population goes on vacation (vacanza). The good news is that cities are emptier, but the bad news is that many stores and services may be closed too, and sometimes for the whole month…

TAX

4. The nice part of the paying process is that the tax (called IVA or VAT) is already included in the price (which spares you the nice surprise of paying a higher price when you get to the cash register).

The IVA is between 4% and 20% of the retail price, depending on the item. If you are a visitor to Italy and you are not a resident of any EU country, you can get a refund for merchandise (only goods, no services) that cost more than €155, as long as they are purchased on the same day at the same store. Just look for the stores with the blue and white "Tax Free" sign on the door and remember to have your passport (passaporto) with you at the time of your purchase.

Did you know?

There are companies specializing in refunding sales tax. They are: Premier Tax Free and Global Refund

Tax free sign

Once at the cash register you need to ask for a "Tax Free Shopping Check" along with the receipt (scontrino).

At the time of departure from Italy, you need to show the receipt, the tax free shopping check and the unused merchandise to the Customs Office at the airport. I know you desperately want to wear those shoes bought in Florence, but you have to wait for the customs officer to clear them…. It is very important to get to the airport early enough (I would say from 3 to 4 hours ahead of your departing flight time) to go through the sometimes extremely long customs process.

After examining that the merchandise matches the information on the receipt and invoice, the officer will stamp the Tax Free Shopping Check with which you can go to any Tax-Free Cash Refund booth at the airport to obtain your immediate refund (rimborso).

If you have purchased an item in a store that doesn't participate in the "Tax Free" program, ask for the fattura (invoice). Make sure that the fattura includes the phrase Esente IVA ai sensi della legge 38 (I spare you the English translation, this is just a legal sentence) and shows the amount of IVA. Once at the airport, bring this invoice along with your merchandise to a Customs Office to have it stamped (this must be done when you leave the last European country on your trip). At this point you need to mail the fattura back to the store within 3 months from the date of the purchase. The store will then send you a check or will credit your credit card account. Keep in mind that this process may take months and also that you may not receive a response from the vendor…

A good alternative is to ask the store to ship the merchandise directly to your home address. In this case no tax is charged at the time of the purchase, which is exempt of IVA.

For more detailed information visit the Agenzia Dogane website.

Remember though, that the merchandise you ship back home requires to pass through your country customs, which means that you may have to pay taxes if the value of the item exceeds the duty free exemption allowance. US travelers can get more information on duty free exemption by visiting the CBP.gov website.

GENERAL SHOPPING INFO

5. If you decide to buy clothes (vestiti) in Italy, keep in mind that they are not made to be dried in a dryer (asciugatrice) and if you do try this, they will most likely shrink. Dryers are not popular at all overseas, thus there is no demand for apparel which is resistant to that process.

6. Always check if a store accepts credit cards. Usually a sticker on the front door will say that and which cards are welcome.

Did you know?

Some stores will not apply discounts if you pay by credit card; they always prefer cash.

Credit card signs

7. Always keep your receipt after any purchase (acquisto). You must have a receipt in order to exchange the merchandise you have previously purchased, as long as the item is in perfect condition. Exchanges are allowed also in case the item is defective. I said exchange, not refund: you may not believe this, but refunds, either in cash or charge credits, are not allowed. So, make sure you really want that costly pair of shoes, because you may risk exchanging them for five leather belts if you change your mind...

8. In Italy clearance sales (saldi) take place twice a year: from January (gennaio) through March (marzo) and from July (luglio) through September (settembre).

9. Bargaining is something you really shouldn't do in a store, but you can certainly ask for a discount (sconto) on some items, such as clothes or shoes (not food!).

CLOTHING SIZE COMPARISONS

10. Sizes are also different. The following is a conversion chart for women’s clothing:

USA 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 ITALY 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50

11. And women’s shoes:

USA 5 6 7 8 9 10 ITALY 35 36 37 38 39 40

12. This is a conversion chart for men’s dress shirts:

USA 14 14 ½ 15 15 ½ 16 16 ½ 17 17 ½ ITALY 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43

13. And men’s shoes:

USA 7 8 9 10 11 12 ITALY 39 40 42 43 44 45

14. The following is a conversion chart for children’s clothing:

USA 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ITALY 35 40 45 50 55 60 65

USA 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 ITALY 70 75 80 85 90 95 100

15. And children’s shoes:

USA 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 10 ½ ITALY 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27

USA 11 12 13 1 2 3 5 6 ITALY 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

Please note: These conversions should only be used as a guide as they are approximate equivalents. Whenever possible make sure to try on the apparel you plan to buy before purchasing it.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF RETAIL STORES

16. The following is a list of stores specializing in specific products:

o Abbigliamento is a clothes shop.

o Negozio di calzature is a shoe store.

Dolce & Gabbana shoes (do these shoes give you any clue about their nationality? ☺)

o Cartoleria is a stationery store.

o Drogheria is very similar to the American drug store. Here you can buy perfumes, house products, soaps, detergents, lotions, etc., but no medicine or drugs, despite what the name suggests….

o Negozio di elettrodomestici is a household appliance store.

o Erboristeria is a shop that sells herb-based products for beauty and health.

o Ferramenta is a hardware store. These stores are very small compared to the American ones.

o Fioraio is the florist.

o Fotografo is a photography studio.

o Negozio di giocattoli is a toy store.

o Gioielleria (or oreficeria) is the jewelry store. The Italian jewelers almost exclusively sell 18K gold jewels.

o Giornalaio (or edicola) is a newsstand. The giornalaio mainly sells newspapers and magazines, but they also sell bus tickets, lottery tickets, books and, if they are located in or near a train station, foreign magazines and newspapers.

Giornalaio or edicola

o Lavasecco (or lavanderia or tintoria) is a dry-cleaner.

o Lavanderia a gettone is a laundry.

o Libreria is a bookstore.

o Negozio di ottica sells eye glasses.

o Negozio di pelletterie is a store selling leather items, such as suitcases, belts, bags, but usually not shoes.

o Profumeria is a perfume and body care products shop.

o Tabaccaio or tabaccheria. As the name suggests, this store sells mainly cigarettes and tobacco products, however here you can also find stamps, telephone cards, postcards, bus tickets, candy bars, salt, souvenirs, sometimes newspapers and magazines. A Tabaccheria is easily identifiable by the big black (or blue) rectangular sign with a white T displayed outside the store.

Did you know?

It is definitely faster and more convenient to buy stamps in a tabaccheria instead of a post office, where you may risk wasting your time waiting in line.

Tabaccheria

MARKETS

17. It is fair to include in this list also the mercato (market). The mercato can be held outdoors (in this case it is usually periodic, like once a week) or indoors, in which case it is a permanent location. At the mercato people sell food (mainly fruit, vegetables, cheese, etc.) but also clothes and household articles. The mercato has a very important social value as it is the place where people meet, chat and exchange news.

Market

18. Last but definitely not least is the mercato dell'antiquariato (flea market) which is a must for art and history lovers. The flea market is usually periodical (once a month) and held on weekends. The date changes depending on the town, for example in Lucca it is held the third Saturday and Sunday of the month; in Arezzo the first Saturday and Sunday of the month, and so on.

Antique market

Chapter 6 – Hotels & Accommodations

ACCOMMODATIONS IN ITALY

Italy offers a multitude of accommodations: bed and breakfasts, pensions, farmhouses, villas, but the most popular remains the hotel. Italian hotels do have some differences compared to those in America, especially those that are not part of international chains. Here’s a list of the main differences:

ROOM INFORMATION

1. In Italy double rooms (camere doppie) usually offer two single beds. Most of the time these two beds are made up to create a king-size bed.

Did you know?

Usually hotel rooms are small and don't have carpeting. In fact, carpets are not very common in Italy. The most widely used floor treatments are tile and hardwood.

Double room

If a double room has a double bed, this is queen size (letto matrimoniale). Double rooms are always for two people; you will never find two double beds as in most American lodgings. Often, if the party exceeds two people, an extra bed can be added on request. If only one person wants to occupy a double room, many times the owner will charge a slightly lower price.

A single room is for one person only and has one single bed (letto singolo).

2. Hotel bathrooms are small and usually contain only a sink, a toilet, and a shower, rarely a bathtub.

This is a three-star-hotel bathroom. The shower was on the right (the one in the mirror is my husband, he likes to take pictures of himself…)

3. When making a reservation, always remember to ask for a non-smoking room (camera per non fumatori) as some hotels still offer both smoking and non- smoking options. Besides, don’t be afraid to ask to see a room before checking in.

4. Italian towns and cities are very noisy. So if you are a light sleeper, you better request a room as far as possible from the street (strada). This is especially true during the summer (estate) when you need to keep windows (finestre) open to refresh the room when air conditioning is not available.

AIR CONDITIONING AND HEATING

5. Many lodgings in Italy are subject to energy restriction laws. Energy restriction laws, enforced by the government, tell the citizens when they can turn on or off the heating system (riscaldamento). As a result, sometimes, even if the temperature gets pretty cold, the owners are not allowed to turn the heating on for you.

6. If you decide to book a hotel room, rent an apartment or villa, keep in mind that many times there is no air conditioning. Only in recent years has air conditioning become more popular because of the very hot summers, but this is still in very early stages of adoption and is still not very widespread. If A/C is something you cannot live without, find out if it is provided before making any reservations. Just don’t take it for granted.

7. “No air conditioning? Well, then I’ll keep the windows open…” Yes, that would be a great solution, but there’s only one little problem: Italian windows usually don’t have screens. This may be an annoying issue especially in the countryside. The solution? Keep the lights off to discourage bugs to share the room with you or use bug zappers to kill them.

GENERAL HOTEL INFORMATION

9. Hotel owners have the obligation by law to register every guest with the police. Therefore, at the time of the check-in, you’ll need to present your passport to the receptionist who will register your name in the hotel book. The passport will be given back to you a few hours later or during check-out.

10. All hotels indicate the exact amount you are going to pay (pagare) for that particular room (camera) by hanging a rate card on the door or inside the closet door.

Did you know?

The American first floor is the Italian ground floor (piano terra), while the American second floor is the Italian first floor (primo piano). Be sure to keep that in mind when trying to find your hotel room on the 3rd floor! ☺

Hotel rate card

11. If you are planning to stay in big cities such as Rome, Milan, Venice or Florence, remember to check the calendar of events. These cities offer the most expensive hotels in Italy, and rates can go up considerably when a particular event or holiday is going on. Also, don’t forget that hotels can be heavily booked during those times. So reserve your hotel room in advance, especially if your vacation occurs at the same time as an event or a holiday.

12. Italian hotels are rated from one to five stars. The star rating is an indication of the facilities offered by a hotel and somehow suggests the price level. One star means that the hotel offers the basic facilities while five stars refer to a luxury hotel. Hotels from one to three stars are also called pensioni.

13. Villas and apartments are a very good alternative to the traditional hotel. The cooking and cleaning is totally up to you, unless you pay an extra fee for these services, but the feeling of staying at a “home away from home” is really comforting. Vacation properties are usually rented on a weekly basis from Saturday to Saturday.

14. Another popular form of lodging are the agriturismo, which are rural farms open to those who want to enjoy a vacation in more of a natural setting with the chance to experience very genuine food. Accommodations are offered as single rooms or apartments, and they can range from very modest to very fancy.

15. If you want to enjoy some TV time during your vacation, make sure that the lodging you are staying at offers satellite TV (which mostly receives foreign- language channels broadcasting news). In Italy there are six main channels divided into two categories: the State-owned (Rai 1, Rai 2 and Rai 3) and private (Canale 5, Italia 1 and Rete 4), in addition to these six are the local channels that vary from region to region. To these add the pay channels.

16. Also remember that Italian VCRs play only PAL video cassettes. You need to have a universal VCR to watch the American tapes whose standard is NTSC. Same thing for DVDs: you cannot watch American DVDs with an Italian DVD player.

17. In Italy there is a law saying that breakfast (colazione) is supposed to be optional (facoltativa) in hotels, but mandatory in pensioni. Many times the cost for breakfast may be extremely high for what you get. Getting some breakfast in a café (Italian bar) may be more convenient and enjoyable.

18. Many hotels require a deposit to secure your reservation. However, if for any reason you have to cancel your reservation, you may not get the deposit back and this is perfectly legal by Italian law.

19. Mezza pensione = half board (breakfast plus a second meal that is usually dinner). Pensione completa = full board (breakfast, lunch and dinner)

20. Lodging offering "direct-dial phone" allows you to use your telephone calling card. If this kind of service is not provided, your calls have to go through a switchboard and your phone card (carta telefonica) cannot be used.

21. At or near train stations and in city centers you may find signs saying albergo diurno. These are day hotels that provide facilities such as showers, barber shop, bathrooms, telephones, dry cleaners, etc. They are usually open from 6am to midnight, so overnight sleeping is not available. Even though some of them may have private rooms, these are for daytime use only, good for a few hours’ rest for example.

Chapter 7 – Churches & Museums

CHURCHES AND MUSEUMS

According to UNESCO, more than half of the world's historical and artistic heritage can be found in Italy. In Italy art is everywhere, in small towns, castles, villas, cathedrals and of course museums and churches. Churches deserve a small chapter by themselves, as there are some regulations that apply when visiting these wonderful sacred places.

GENERAL CHURCH INFORMATION

1. There is a dress code to visit churches in Italy: it is forbidden to enter a church (chiesa) wearing shorts or skirts above the knee, and sleeveless tops. Some churches display the dress code sign on the door, others do not, and some even have a person at the door to turn away people that are not dressed properly, especially at the major churches, basilicas and cathedrals.

Did you know?

So what if you’ve been out in the hot sun in your shorts all day, and you stumble upon a beautiful church you’d like to visit, but don’t have a change of clothes? Fear not: Usually in the vicinity of these churches you’ll find a store selling disposable (usa e getta) clothes! It sounds crazy, I know, but there really is such a thing! So don’t despair and look around. This may be a hassle especially during the hottest months, but some Italian masterpieces may be worth a little sweat…

Church regulation sign

2. Churches are like small museums themselves, as they contain many pieces of art. To preserve them from damage, they are not kept constantly under artificial light (luce). However, most of the time churches provide a "light

box," a paying system that lights the paintings or statues up for few minutes. This works with coins (monete).

“Light box”

3. Keep some change with you also for the "guide boxes," which are prerecorded information on the history of the church and the pieces of art that are preserved in it.

“Guide box”

CHURCH SERVICES

4. Here is a list of some Catholic churches offering services in English:

o Florence: Duomo of Florence. Every Saturday (sabato) at 5pm. Piazza del Duomo, Telephone 055 215 380

o Rome: Church of Santa Susanna (American National Church), Via XX Settembre 14. Telephone 06 4201 4554.

o Rome: Church of San Silvestro (English National Church), Piazza San Silvestro 1. Telephone 06 697 7121.

5. Some non-Catholic churches also offer services in English:

o Florence: St. James Church (American Episcopal), Via B. Rucellai 9. Telephone 055 294 417.

o Florence: St. Mark’s English Church (Anglican), Via Maggio 16. Telephone 055 294 764.

o Rome: All Saints Church (Anglican), Via del Babuino 153. Telephone 06 3600 1881.

o Rome: St. Andrew's Church (Presbyterian), Via XX Settembre 7. Telephone 06 482 7627.

o Rome: Rome Baptist Church, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 35. Telephone 06 687 6652.

o Rome: Ponte Sant'Angelo Methodist Church, Via del Banco di Santo Spirito 3. Telephone 06 686 8314.

o Venice: St. George’s Church (Anglican), Dorsoduro, Campo San Vio 870. Telephone 041 520 0571.

o Venice: Lutheran Evangelical Church, Cannaregio, Campo SS. Apostoli 4443. Telephone 041 524 2040.

o Venice: Evangelical Waldensian and Methodist Church, Castello, Santa Maria Formosa 5170. Telephone 041 522 7549.

o Milan: Anglican Church of All Saints, Via Solferino 12. Telephone 02 655 2258.

o Milan: Methodist Church, Via Porro Lambertenghi 28. Telephone 02 607-2631.

o Naples: Anglican Church, Via San Pasquale 18. Telephone 081 411 842.

o Naples: Baptist Church, Via Foria 93. Telephone 081 554 6317.

o Naples: Lutheran Church, Via Carlo Poerio 5. Telephone 081 663 207.

o Naples: Methodist Church, Via Vaccaro 20. Telephone 081 556 4263.

6. Synagogues can be found in:

o Florence: Via Farini 4. Telephone 055 245252.

o Milan: Via Eupili 6. Telephone 02 4830 2806.

o Naples: Via Cappella Vecchia 31. Telephone 081 764 3480.

o Rome: Via Lungotevere Cenci. Telephone 06 684 0061.

o Venice: Campo Ghetto Nuovo 2899, Cannaregio. Telephone 041 715 012.

7. Minor churches are usually open from 7am to noon and from 4:30pm to 6pm. Major churches are open from 7am to 6pm.

GENERAL MUSEUM INFORMATION

8. As per Italian museums, I think it is useful to know that for some of them you can make reservations in advance. The Uffizi Galleries in Florence and the Ducal Palace in Venice, for instance, accept reservations, which are advisable especially in summer time, when long lines form at the entrance.

Whereas for some museums reservations are optional, for others they are mandatory, such as for the Galleria Borghese in Rome and the Santa Maria delle Grazie church in Milan, where Leonardo’s “Last Supper” is displayed.

Reservations can be made online and it is something you should definitely consider before your departure. These museums are among the most famous in Italy, so you may want to plan your visit well in advance in order to avoid long summer queues (code) while melting “under the Tuscan sun”...

9. Keep in mind that most museums are closed on Mondays and sell tickets until 45 minutes before the closing time. So, don't arrive at the very last minute because they won't let you in, even if you show them your best smile.

10. A museum ticket may costs between €8-12, with some high profile museums charging even more. Discounts are available for children and teenagers as well as for people older than 65.

Chapter 8 – Hospitals & Medical Assistance

HOSPITALS

Everyone's vacation is a time to look forward to. For most of us vacations are big events that are planned with care down to the smallest of details. When we go on vacation, we think of the wonderful time we will have, but our cautious side should also emerge while making plans for having fun. This section will help you understand which precautions you should take before going to Italy and how to deal with unexpected health problems, should they arise, during your stay.

GENERAL HOSPITAL INFORMATION

1. In Italy, public hospitals are the norm. They are good institutions with good doctors (dottori), however the quality of service may not be the same as the hospitals in the United States. For example, most of the time there are no private rooms, but only rooms that are shared by 2 or more people (sometimes they can accommodate up to 8 people). Private hospitals (ospedali privati) or clinics (cliniche) offer services that are closer to the American standard. Italy doesn’t have any medical programs for non-EU citizens, and for this reason you are encouraged to purchase medical insurance coverage (assicurazione) in case an unfortunate event should require you to need medical assistance or hospitalization during your visit.

2. Many hospitals provide a dental clinic called Clinica Odontoiatrica. If you prefer to go to a private dentist, as most Italians do, you can find one in the phone book under Dentisti and Odontoiatri.

Did you know?

The Emergency Room is called Pronto Soccorso. Call the toll free number 118 in case of an emergency.

A Pronto Soccorso (E.R.) sign

INSURANCE CONCERNS

3. Members of the European Union need to get the European Medical Card, which has replaced the E111 form, before leaving the country. This card allows receiving emergency medical assistance for free or for a minimal cost in one of the EU countries.

4. Many US insurance companies require an itemized hospital bill where a refund (rimborso) has to be made. However, Italian hospitals issue only an all inclusive bill which is for care services, board and lodging. Inquire in advance with your insurance company about what to do in case this problem emerges.

5. Prior to your trip, you should ask your medical insurance company if your policy applies overseas. In addition, you should also inquire about the coverage of emergency expenses (such as medical evacuation). Many companies do cover this kind of health cost, however sometimes the purchase of supplemental coverage is required or at least suggested (for example a medical evacuation from Italy to the US can cost more than $10,000).

6. Medicare and Medicaid do not cover medical assistance abroad.

7. When inquiring with your insurance company, ask if payments will be made directly to the Italian provider or if you will be reimbursed for out of pocket medical costs. In Italy many hospitals and doctors require full payment in cash at the time of service.

8. It is a good idea to contact the Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) before your departure. This is a non-profit organization that you can join free of charge. Among other benefits, members receive a list of English-speaking doctors on call 24 hours a day. Another good site to check about healthcare information for US travelers abroad is the US State Department website.

PHARMACIES

It seems that Pharmacies are a kind of "tourist attraction" for foreign tourists visiting Italy. Tourists always seem to be in need of drugs and medical advice during their vacation. All kidding aside, it is also true that some pharmacies have a very rich history, which really makes them worth a short visit. This chapter will give you a little glimpse at what Italian pharmacies are like.

GENERAL PHARMACY INFORMATION

9. Pharmacies are recognizable by a green or red cross displayed outside the store.

Pharmacy sign

10. Pharmacies are stores on their own and are privately owned and you won't find them in any big grocery stores as in the USA. The pharmacists, who are all professionally trained, are reliable and many of them speak English, especially in the big cities and tourist areas.

11. Pharmacies have their own hours and are usually open from Monday through Friday, 8:30am to 1pm and 4pm to 7:30pm. Many of them are open on Saturday, while most are closed on Sunday.

Did you know?

Medicines and drugs purchased at a pharmacy during the night shift are subject to a surcharge of about €5.

Pharmacy hours

12. Every pharmacy posts a list indicating which pharmacies are open outside of regular business hours, including night shifts. So, if you happen to find a pharmacy closed, check the posting near the entrance door that will tell you which other pharmacies are open nearby. The same information can be found in local newspapers (giornali) as well as from your hotel concierge. Having a map with the street names listed in alphabetical order could also be helpful in this case.

List showing which other pharmacies are open in the vicinity

13. Keep in mind that many brand name drugs that you find in your country may be named differently in Italy. As a result the pharmacist may not understand what product you need. For this reason it is advisable to bring any medicines from home that you think you may need during your trip.

For example, Advil and Tylenol are not available in Italy, however there are two medicines similar to them. These are Moment 200 (comparable to Advil), and Tachipirina or Paracetamolo (comparable to Tylenol).

At the time of this writing, Moment 200 costs about €8 for 24 tablets, Tachipirina is €4 for 20 tablets.

Aspirin (aspirina) is definitively most popular among Italians, who pay about €4 for 20 tablets. The effervescent version costs €7.

Generally speaking, drug quality in Italy is comparable to that of American drugs.

Tachipirina Moment 200

14. In Italy, over the counter as well prescription medicines can only be given to you by the pharmacist (farmacista). In Italy what is considered to be over the counter products are only non-drug items such as baby, beauty or personal care products, and many similar others.

Italian pharmacy

15. You can buy your prescription drugs in any Italian pharmacy, however, as in the USA, pharmacists cannot sell prescription drugs without an authorization from a doctor (dottore). It is thus recommended that you ask your doctor to write some prescription sheets with the generic names in case you need some refills for your medicine during your stay in Italy. If you need to renew a prescription you can contact the IAMAT (see the "Hospitals and medical assistance" chapter) or ask any pharmacy that will direct you to a doctor.

Chapter 9 – Post Office Information

POST OFFICE

You probably already know that the Italian mail system is not one of the best available on the globe. Many years ago my uncle sent a postcard to his sister during one of his trips abroad. When my aunt received it she was very pleased, but also very much surprised. Why? Well, it took almost 40 years for the postcard to arrive…. This is no joke, it happened to my family. I don't want to scare you and let you think this is normal, however, let's say that it is indeed true that in Italy mail often does takes its time to arrive at its final destination…

GENERAL POST OFFICE INFORMATION

1. Depending on the city, the post office is open Monday to Friday from around 8:00am to around 1:30pm. It closes at noon on Saturdays and on the last day of the month. It is always closed on Sunday. In every big city there is a Main Post Office (Posta Centrale) which has extended hours and closes later, usually at 7pm. Visit the official website for the Italian Postal Service.

2. Post offices in Italy now have a new look: a yellow and blue sign saying Poste e Telegrafi is displayed outside the office.

Post office sign

3. Usually there are big lines at the post offices; remember though that you don’t need to go the post office to purchase stamps. You can do it at any tabaccheria (see the chapter "Stores and shopping"). Usually there is a red mail box outside the tabaccherie to drop your stamped mail.

Did you know?

In Italy the postman always delivers the mail, but never picks it up. If you need to mail letters and cards use the red boxes or, if you need to send a package, go to the post office.

Mail drop box

4. Red mail boxes have two small windows to drop the mail in. One says: "Per la citta'" which means "For the city", the other one says "Per tutte le altre destinazioni," which means "For all the other destinations." Obviously, the one is for local mail while the other is for all other national and international destinations.

5. Tourists usually mail postcards and letters from Italy to their family and friends around the world. A Priority Mail stamp for postcards and letters (up to 20 grams) from Italy to the USA costs €0.85.

Chapter 10 – Telephones

TELEPHONES

Italians are great talkers, so it’s no wonder that when the first cell phones came on the market they were welcomed in such a warm way. Today’s mobile phone adoption in Italy is exceeding 90% of the entire population.

PUBLIC PHONES

1. Cell phone market penetration in Italy is one of the highest in the world, with the result that public phones (telefoni pubblici) are getting less popular by the day. Today, public phones that only work with coins (in the denominations of €0.10, €0.20, €0.50 and €1) have virtually disappeared in favor of devices that use prepaid cards. These cards are available in every tabaccheria and newsstand in various denominations (usually €5 and €7.50). The most recent public phones are also enabled for credit card use and have a display that tells you the cost of the call (chiamata).

Did you know?

When answering the telephone, Italians say "Pronto?" not "Hello?"

Prepaid card public phone

2. If you use a prepaid card, first remember to take off the punched corner of the card and to check the expiration date. After inserting your card, a digital display will show you how much money is on the card. At the end of your phone call, remember to take the card with you.

Did you know?

Italy is 6 hours ahead of US Eastern Standard Time. So if it’s 8AM in New York, it will be 2PM in Milan.

Prepaid phone card

Form of payment accepted to make a call from a public phone

3. If you want to use a public phone, but don't want your loved ones to hear Mario honking or Giuseppe speeding by on his motorcycle, just remember that most main post offices provide public phone booths that will allow you to make a phone call in a peaceful and quiet environment.

Also bars (oops, again, coffee houses) and other facilities offer public phones; just look for a sign (usually red or yellow) showing the handset. If you use a phone located in a bar, without buying a cappuccino or gelato, don't be surprised if you encounter the irritated glance of the bartender. Out of courtesy, get a little something to drink or eat before using the phone (this same rule applies if you have to use the restroom…) and besides, there is no better sacrifice than having a coffee or an ice cream in Italy! ☺

Did you know?

It is better to make your international phone calls from a public phone whenever possible. Hotels usually apply surcharges that increase the cost of your call considerably.

A bar telephone sign

AREA CODES

4. You must first dial the city area code (prefisso) even if you call within the same city. The area code always starts with "0". Until mid-'98, the area code was separated from the actual phone number. Then, as cell phones became more and more popular, the dialing system had to be changed and now the area code number is built into the number itself.

Cell phones area codes never start with "0," but usually with "3." Another important note to remember is that city area codes don't apply when you call a cell phone number. So if you are calling a cell phone you would not dial the “0” first.

INTERNATIONAL CALLING

5. To call Italy from the States dial 011 39 + the city area code (which starts with a 0) + the number.

To call a cell phone from the States dial 011 39 + the cell phone code (which start with a 3) + the number.

To call the States from Italy dial 001 + the area code + the number.

6. International phone cards appear to be the best and cheapest way to call abroad. These cards are available at tabaccai or bars (bars, which by now you know are actually coffee houses).

7. If you have a long distance carrier at home, you can use your own long- distance carrier's phone card when you have to place calls from Italy to the United States. Just contact your phone company before your trip to get your access number for Italy. Then, once in Italy, you’ll have to dial the access number, the area code and the local number. An American operator will help you complete your call. If you are calling from a pay phone, a coin (usually €0.10) or a card deposit is required to initiate the call, even if the connection via access code is free.

8. Some US phone companies offer prepaid phone cards that can be used abroad for international calls.

EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS

9. The following is a list of emergency numbers. All emergency numbers are free in Italy and apply nationwide:

o 113 is the first number to call in case of a real emergency (Police). It corresponds to the American 911. 113 operators are likely to speak English, although don’t take it for granted. Remember to call this number only for emergencies, but never for information.

o 118 is the number to call when you need an ambulance.

o 115 is the firefighters’ phone number.

OTHER USEFUL NUMBERS

10. Other non-toll free useful numbers are:

o 170 for national and international collect calls (chiamata nazionale ed internazionale a carico del destinatario) through an Italian or English- speaking operator. This service is available from 8am to 9pm, Monday thru Friday. It also offers the phone call translation in real time. The 170 number costs about €6 only to connect the call to the person you wish to contact. In addition, you need to add the actual cost of the phone call which varies depending on the destination country.

o Once upon a time there was a simple unique number (“12”) for national directory assistance (in Italian). Now, a variety of new services replace the old “12”: Telecom 1254, Numero Italia 892892, Vodafone 89200 and more!! They are all connected to different telephone companies, and they all require a toll.

Some of them offer English-speaking operators, others don’t. Some services provide information about restaurants, movie theaters, and museums. Others are pure directory assistance, sometimes just national and if you are lucky, international too.

Did you get lost in this ocean of information? I did… My only advice is to ask someone local (such as the hotel concierge) to assist you in the unfortunate case you’ll need this service. It seems to me that in my country phone services change in the blink of an eye, so you better ask someone on the premises to update you with the latest. I miss my little number 12 so much…

CELL PHONES

11. Cell phones are widely (and wildly) spread throughout Italy. The way they work is quite different from the American ones: you don’t sign up for a monthly plan, instead you use a prepaid cell phone card, which usually comes in denominations of €25 or €50, depending on the cell phone provider. You have to recharge the card every time the money runs out. You can purchase a recharge for your card at any tobacco shop or by phone using your credit card. If you travel to Italy often then it may be convenient for you to buy a cell phone there rather than trying to use pay phones all the time. If you do purchase a cell phone, however, be advised that if you don’t use it for a certain amount of time (it may be one year or less) then the cell phone number expires along with the left credit in your card.

12. Another option is to either rent or buy a cell phone before leaving for Italy. There are some reliable companies that both rent and sell international cell phones. The most popular are Telestial and Cellular Abroad.

13. You can also use your own cell phone, if it is a world phone working with tri- band GSM service and a SIM card. In this case you only need to take off the American SIM card and insert the Italian one. Telestial and Cellular Abroad sell Italian SIM cards. Before doing so, contact your cell phone provider to make sure that your GSM phone is unlocked and can accept International SIM cards.

INTERNET ACCESS

14. If you need to access the Internet during your vacation you can use one of the many Internet cafes that are becoming more and more popular. You can find them in some public libraries and major tourist offices, while some are set up as independent businesses. These are usually located in the busiest city neighborhoods, but also in major train stations and public phone centers. Their service is charged by the hour. The Internet Train is one of the most popular Internet access chains in Italy. Check their website to find out if there is an Internet access point located near your vacation residence.

15. If you plan to bring your laptop along, you'll need to get a plug adaptor (you can buy them at the airport for around $10) and verify that your power adaptor supports voltage between 100 and 240v. Usually, all recent laptops come equipped with it, but a quick check may save you from frying your notebook while you are on vacation.

16. Wireless / broadband connections are not as popular in Italy as in the U.S. or Canada. Chances are that major hotels may provide it (either free or for a fee), but always check before making a reservation.

GENERAL PHONE INFORMATION

19. In Italy calls are charged by the minute and the costs can vary a lot depending if the call is made during peak hours (8am to 6:30pm), regular hours (6:30pm to 8am) or during the weekend.

20. Italian phone numbers have 6 to 8 digits most of the time. Sometimes you can find numbers with 4 or 5 digits (except for the emergency and information numbers which can have 2 or 3 digits and don't need the area code). So, don't assume a given number is wrong based on the number of digits.

21. Generally speaking the Italian 800 numbers, like the American ones, are toll- free numbers valid within Italy. Even so, many times you are required to insert a prepaid card or a coin to start the call. Besides, often it is hard to understand if a number is toll-free or not, because not all toll-free phone numbers start with 800. Only the indication numero verde (literally “green number”) will help you to clarify this issue.

22. The following website http://www.englishyellowpages.it/ is the English version of the Italian Yellow Pages. Here you can find useful information on English-speaking businesses and professionals in the major Italian cities: Rome (Roma), Milan (Milano), Bologna, Genoa (Genova), Naples (Napoli), Florence (Firenze) and Palermo. A paper version is also available at embassies, Tourist Information offices, consulates and international bookstores in the cities listed above.

23. The White Pages official website is another useful tool to find either people or business. Now the English version is also available.

Chapter 11 – Banks & Currency

BANKS

This chapter will introduce you to the Italian banking system and especially to the new European currency: the Euro. It is a good idea to get familiar with coins and bills before your trip. The more familiar you are with the currency, the more likely your monetary transactions will go smoothly and without someone taking advantage of you.

ATM MACHINES

1. The grand majority of the banks provide an ATM service (known in Italy as Bancomat). You can use your debit or major credit card to withdraw Euros at any ATM machine 24 hours a day. Keep in mind that credit cards charge a service fee (2.5% to 4%) for cash advances. For this reason always remember to use your debit card first whenever possible. Most of the time there is a smaller fee for the withdrawal and the exchange rate is usually good as well.

Cirrus is the most-used banking system, so make sure that your card is compatible with this system (inquire with your bank or credit card company to have more detailed information).

Cirrus logo

Check if its logo is displayed on the ATM machine (and on your debit card) before making the withdrawal (prelievo) and make also sure that your PIN number is valid to be used abroad. The ATM machine will dispense the currency in Euro, but once back home your bank statement will show the withdrawal in US dollars.

Did you know?

ATMs and, of course, banks will give you better exchange rates than exchange offices which charge a commission.

Italian ATM machine

2. Many ATM keyboards display only numbers (no letters). It is thus advisable to know how to translate your PIN code into numbers in the case you’ve memorized it as a 4 letter name.

ATM keyboard

MONEY TIPS

3. If you arrive in Italy without a Euro in your pocket, you can easily get European currency at any ATM machine as described above, or you can exchange your cash at any bank or exchange office (Ufficio di Cambio) available at airports, train stations and seaports. It is advisable though to get some Euros (especially €1 coins) before your trip as they may be very handy for the first tourist operations (visit http://www.currencysource.com to order Euros online).

4. Travelers’ checks can be exchanged for Euros at most hotels and shops, as well as exchange offices and banks. Usually travelers’ checks are accepted in large cities and tourist areas more easily than in small towns. The exchange rate is based on the exchange rate for that particular day. It is a good idea to take along travelers’ checks denominated in Euros to avoid additional exchange fees; your bank should be able to help you with this.

5. Don't take it for granted that your credit card will be accepted everywhere. In Italy the most popular credit cards are Visa and MasterCard, more than the AmEx. Italians still use cash as their main form of payment, followed by the debit card. Major establishments do accept credit cards, but you better double check before making any purchase. Usually a sticker on the door or window of the store will tell you if and which cards can be used, although you can always just ask someone who works there.

GENERAL BANK INFORMATION

7. Banks hours are from Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 1:30pm. They are also open for an hour in the afternoon, usually from 3pm to 4pm (afternoon hours can vary from city to city). Banks close on Saturday, Sunday and national holidays. In the major tourist areas they are open from 8:30am to 4pm, and may be also open on Saturday morning, depending on the bank.

8. Banks, as well as restaurants and pharmacies, don’t provide drive-through service. Italians look nice and slim not only because of their diet, but also because they walk a lot to reach all those places where their car cannot take

them, and believe me, in Italy there are a lot of places you will most likely want to visit that your car cannot. In fact I might as well mention now, in case I didn’t before, that you should absolutely take at least one pair of your favorite and most comfortable walking shoes with you to Italy! Trust me, your feet will thank me later! ☺

9. Banks are highly guarded places. To enter a bank you have to go through electric double doors with a metal detector that in most cases only allows one person at a time to pass through. Sometimes the doors close and open automatically, while other times you have to press a button.

See the door on the right? That’s the bank entrance.

CURRENCY INFORMATION: The Euro

10. And now… the moment you’ve been waiting for… The Euro and its denominations:

GENERAL EURO INFORMATION

11. Be very careful when you buy something using cash and you are given some change back that may include a €2 coin. The old Italian currency used to have a Lire 500 coin (which corresponds approximately to €0.25) that looks a lot like the €2 coin (a golden circle with a silver edge). Some unscrupulous sellers take advantage of tourists, usually not very familiar with European currency, by giving back this old coin instead of the €2 coin which is due for change. These are tricky games which you can avoid with a little knowledge.

Top and bottom left: new €2 coin; Top and bottom right: old Lire 500 coin

12. When you see price tags or any monetary amounts written for the Euro, commas and periods are used in reverse order compared to US. For example one thousand dollars and fifty cents, in Euro, is written: €1.000,50. The period denotes the one thousand dollars and the comma separates the decimals.

13. To find out the latest conversion rate visit the website: http://www.xe.com

Chapter 12 – Units & Conversions

UNITS AND CONVERSIONS

At first, it may be hard to understand the Italian units and conversion system especially if you are coming from the US or UK. After almost twelve years in the United States, I still find it difficult to convert Fahrenheit degrees into Celsius, or grams into ounces… Fortunately if you are in Italy for a vacation you probably won’t really need or use these details. However it is nice to have at least a minimal understanding of how the Italian metric and conversion system works so that you can feel more comfortable and at ease when you encounter it:

DISTANCE

1. Kilometers (chilometri) ~ Miles (miglia):

Speed (velocita') is measured in kilometers/hour instead of miles/hour. See the following chart with the conversion from kilometers to miles to get a better idea:

KILOMETERS MILES Did you know? 1 0.62 Google provides a handy way to calculate 10 6.21 conversions. Just type strings like ‘100 20 12.43 Km in miles’, or ‘4 pounds in kilograms’ 30 18.64 in the search box. 40 24.85 50 31.07 60 37.28 70 43.50 80 49.71 90 55.92 100 62.14

WEIGHT

2. Kilos (chili) ~ Pounds (libbre):

Italians use kilos instead of pounds. Fortunately also this conversion is pretty easy to make because to convert kilos into pounds you have to multiply by 2.2 (Example: 1 kilo = 2 ¼ pounds).

KILOS POUNDS 1 2.2 2 4.4 3 6.6 10 22 20 44 30 66 50 110 100 220 150 330 200 440

Italians also use grams (grammi) instead of ounces (once). 100 grams = 3 ½ ounces.

TEMPERATURE

3. Celsius ~ Fahrenheit:

So far our conversions haven’t been too hard. But converting degrees (gradi) from one unit to the other can be a little trickier. The best way to remember these is to memorize some basic conversions such as:

CELSIUS FAHRENHEIT -5 23 0 32 5 41 10 50 15 59 20 68 25 77 30 86 35 95 40 104

VOLUME

4. Liter (litri) ~ US Gallons (galloni):

In Italy, the liter is the measurement unit for liquids. The conversion is fairly easy as 1 gallon equals about 4 liters.

LITER GALLON 1 0.2 2 0.5 3 0.7 10 2.6 20 5.2 30 7.9 50 13 100 26 150 39

POWER

5. Electricity (elettricita'):

The voltage used in Italy is 220V. If you plan to take along any electronic device, it is advisable to also take your own voltage converter (trasformatore di corrente) and plug adapter (adattatore per la presa di corrente), which you can purchase before leaving your home country or you can easily find in any Italian hardware store (ferramenta). In Italy they use both two- and three- prong units that often require adapters themselves.

Italian plug

OTHER CONVERSION RESOURCES

For a more detailed view of the conversion system, visit the following website: http://www.metric-conversions.org/conversion-calculators.htm

Chapter 13 – National Holidays

ITALIAN HOLIDAYS

Everyone knows that all countries have their own holidays. However few people think to find out when these holidays occur before planning a vacation. If you only have one week to spend in Italy and upon arriving you find that two or three of your precious seven days overlap a holiday in which people celebrate by closing down stores, post offices, banks, while reducing transportation services and shutting down restaurants, well let’s just say I don’t think you’ll be too happy! And not only are there national holidays, but local holidays as well, so it’s well worth your time to take a look at this:

SPECIFIC HOLIDAYS

1. OK, now, let's see when Italians enjoy their national holidays:

o New Year day (Capodanno): as in the States, the 1st of January is an observed holiday.

o Epiphany (Epifania): it is celebrated on January 6th every year. It is a religious holiday and it corresponds to the presentation of baby Jesus to the Three Wise Men. It is observed in the schools. Some stores and banks may be closed also.

o Easter (Pasqua): the Easter Sunday changes from one year to the next. This day is the same both in the States and Italy.

o The Day after Easter (Lunedi dell’angelo or Pasquetta): it is the Monday following Easter Sunday and is also an observed holiday in which many businesses are closed.

o Liberation Day (Giorno della liberazione): this holiday commemorates the day Italy was freed from the Nazi-Fascism. It is celebrated every year on April 25th.

o Labor Day (Festa del Lavoro): on May 1st, every year. Observed.

o Republic Day (Festa della Repubblica): In 1946 Italy had to decide whether to remain a monarchy or become a republic. On June 2, 1946 Italy decided to become a republic. This holiday is celebrated every year on June 2nd.

o Assumption (Assunzione): This is the holiday celebrating Mary, Mother of God. It is observed every year on August 15th.

o All Saints’ Day (Ognissanti): Every year on November 1st. Observed.

o Immaculate Conception (Immacolata concezione): this is another holiday dedicated to Mary and her freedom from sin. It is observed every year on December 8th.

o Christmas (Natale): Observed every year on December 25th.

o Saint Stefano Day (Giorno di Santo Stefano): it is the day after Christmas. Unlike in the States, on December 26th all stores and banks are closed (as well as the schools, obviously). While Americans do their shopping, Italians eat another Christmas meal...

LOCAL HOLIDAYS

2. Every big Italian city has its own patron saint who is considered to be the protector of that city. These cities all have holidays in honor of their patron saints. Knowing about these local holidays in advance can help you to avoid some of the disadvantages caused by the slowing down or closure of some services. The following is a list of the holidays celebrated in the most famous Italian cities:

o Naples- S. Gennaro: celebrated every year on September 19th.

o Bologna- S. Petronio: celebrated every year on October 4th.

o Rome- SS. Pietro and Paolo: celebrated every year on June 29th.

o Milan- S. Ambrogio: celebrated every year on December 7th.

o Florence, Turin and Genoa- S. Giovanni Battista: celebrated every year on June 24th.

o Palermo- Santa Rosalia: celebrated every year on July 11th.

o Siena- Palio (Horse racing): Every year on July 2nd and August 16th.

o Venice- S. Marco: celebrated every year on April 25th.

GENERAL HOLIDAY INFORMATION

3. The only trick to be aware of is that if a holiday occurs on a Tuesday (martedi') or a Thursday (giovedi'), Italians practice the so called ponte (bridge), which means they carry the holiday over to the previous Monday or following Friday respectively.

However, if a national holiday falls on either a Saturday or a Sunday, they don't make up for it on the following Monday, as they do in the States; Italians just lose that day.

Chapter 14 – Italian Lifestyle

ITALIAN LIFESTYLE

This chapter will give you a general idea about Italians, their lifestyle and customs. You will learn how to recognize and deal with some typical behaviors that may seem strange to you, but are normal for the "world's best lovers" ☺.

INTERESTING FOOD FACTS

1. Italians eat late, so if you happen to be invited to a dinner, don't expect to knock on your host's door before 7:30pm (unless specified by him/her).

2. At any lunch or dinner, you may be offered something to drink before starting the meal, but this is not usually going to be liquor, although it certainly could be a glass of wine (bicchiere di vino).

3. Beer (birra) is definitely less popular than wine. In Italy, you must be 18 years old to drink alcoholic beverages, however establishments serving alcoholic beverages will rarely ask for ID to verify your age. Interestingly, alcoholism is not really an issue in Italy. The focus of the typical Italian get- together for social activities is not to drink beer (or wine) and get drunk, but just to spend some nice time together sipping a glass of wine and nibbling some snacks.

4. Italians don't usually drink wine without eating. They accompany their meals with wine and finish them by drinking a grappa or amaro (bitters).

5. The major meal of the holidays or of the Sunday get-together is always lunch (pranzo). Italians get up, some of them go to mass (messa) and then they meet for lunch. After that, they enjoy the passeggiata (strolling) in the piazza, which can be seen as a great parade where people meet other people either by appointment or by chance, and show off their holiday clothes while digesting

the rich meal they’ve eaten a few hours before. By dinner time they are back home, ready to check soccer (calcio) results.

Passeggiata after lunch

6. Bread (pane) is always present on Italians' tables, but you will never find butter (burro) on them. Italians don't butter their bread. Bread is used to accompany their meal and to scoop up the sauce or the leftovers from a plate (piatto).

7. Many Italians like to have breakfast (colazione) at the bar with a coffee and a pastry (pasta). Even at home breakfast is usually a coffee and something small to eat, usually sweet.

8. Before starting a meal, Italians say “buon appetito” in hopes that you will enjoy your meal. A toast is celebrated with a cin cin or salute (literally: to your health).

9. Lunch and dinner are untouchable rituals: every day city business comes to a halt between 12:30pm and 3pm. People disappear behind a plate of spaghetti and take a break senza fretta (with no rush). Then around 3pm business kicks into action again until the second ritual takes place: dinner time (cena), which begins about 8pm.

INTERPERSONAL COMMUNICATIONS

10. If you want to give a floral present to an Italian person, avoid giving chrysanthemums. These flowers are associated with death and are the flowers one brings to a funeral.

11. If in spite of this advice you do happen to give chrysanthemums as a gift, don't be surprised if the immediate reaction is one of the following:

o Touching any object made of iron, which is the Italian translation for "knock on wood."

o A hand waving in your face, making the sign of the “horns” with one hand (by stretching out the index and the little finger) which you can often see among Italians.

o Touching the private parts.

Italian women will choose the first or second option, while Italian men will most certainly opt for the third one, as they believe that touching the testicles is the most effective way to attract the good luck and push the bad luck away.

12. On that note, some may be shocked to find that nudity is well accepted in Italy. It is not unusual to see undressed women on the cover of some cultural and well-known magazines, as well as on TV programs after a certain time (usually 9pm).

13. It is customary to offer a salutation when entering or exiting a shop: you say buongiorno (hello) when you arrive and grazie e arrivederci (thanks, good bye) when you leave.

14. In Italy when you want to address someone who is older than you or someone of your same age whom you do not know, it is proper to show that person respect by greeting him/her with one of the following: “Buongiorno,” “buonasera” and “arrivederci” ("good morning, "good afternoon"/"good

evening" and "goodbye"). If you are greeting younger people or friends and relatives you can simply say “ciao” (hello, good-bye).

15. When meeting new people, Italians greet them by shaking hands. They use two kisses (first on the right cheek and second on the left cheek) or a hug with friends (amici) they’ve known for a long time. However, this is not really a strict rule: Italians are very loving and warm people and it is not unusual that they will kiss you the first time they meet you, especially if you are introduced by someone they trust and know very well. It is also common to see Italian (straight) men to meet and kiss cheeks.

16. Italians are very expressive, they love to chat and use their hands to create gestures which help them communicate what they are saying even better. During a conversation with a native Italian you may be touched on your shoulder or forearm frequently. Please don’t be alarmed as this shouldn't be seen as a form of disrespect or impoliteness; it is just the typical Italian way to communicate with body language. This rule also applies with children: don't be afraid or mistrustful if someone wants to give your child a caress or even hold him/her. Italians love children (bambini) and they express this feeling by touching and talking to them.

A gesture-rich chatting among friends

Chapter 15 – Miscellaneous Information

MISCELLANEOUS

This chapter contains additional useful information which doesn’t fall into any particular category, but that nevertheless might be important to know.

1. People often ask when is the best time to go to Italy. I feel the best time is from April to June and from September to October. July and August are less appealing due to extreme heat and more crowds. August is the month when most Italians go on vacation, and as a result many tourist areas are extremely crowded but cities are emptier which makes them easier to visit. The drawback is that many nice stores and restaurants may be closed.

2. Visit this website to get an idea about the average temperatures in Italy throughout the year: http://www.italiantourism.com/temperature2.html

3. If you need to get information or directions, here’s a hot tip: ask a young person as they are more likely to speak English. Most older people don’t speak English at all, even though they are always happy to help. Be ready, as they will speak Italian to you as if you understand what they are saying, and don't try to read their lips, but read their hands instead and you'll surely get the point.

4. Italians don't use dryers; they dry their clothes by hanging them on a rack inside their homes or on a rope outside their windows, which is a nice way of letting the neighborhood know their favorite kind of underwear.

Laundry hanged to dry

5. The bidet is commonly used in the bathrooms and you will certainly find one if you stay in a hotel or an apartment/villa. The bidet's main function is to clean your bottom after you have used the toilet.

The bidet (this is my mother-in-law’s bathroom. Please don’t tell her I used this picture for my eBook…)

6. As for the public restrooms that you will find in restaurants, bars or other public places, you may come across somewhat tricky wash basins which at first may seem to be out of order. Fear not: while some may indeed be in need of repair, most just have the faucet but no handles to turn on the water, nor do they have an electrical sensor to make the water flow. So how do they work? Look down and you'll see a pedal. Press the pedal with your foot and the water will miraculously appear… Could it be that Italians imagine themselves driving a car even when they wash their hands? Maybe yes…

Did you know?

In Italy washing machines are always front-loading models. They use less water, but the cycle can last more than one hour.

Wash basin with pedal

As for toilets, when visiting big cities keep in mind that public restrooms are easier to find near tourist attractions. Most of the time a small fee is required and there is usually an attendant (who expects to be tipped). Either way, always have some small change with you. Uomini means Men, Donne means Women.

7. By law you have the right to use a bar/coffee house's restroom, however many times they allow only customers to use their facilities (sometimes they lock

the restroom and you have to ask the bartender for the key). For this reason it is advisable, and certainly more polite, to get something at the bar before using the toilet.

8. In Italy the week starts on Monday and ends on Sunday. Each day of the week is dedicated to one or more Saints. Their names are written on most calendars. Sunday is the day of rest: stores are closed, but most of the restaurants are open.

9. To indicate the time, Italians don't use the AM or PM because hours progress from 1 to 24. So, 1:00am is going to be simply 1:00, but 1:00pm is 13:00, 2:00pm is 14:00, 3:00pm is 15:00 and so on until midnight. This rule applies especially for the written hours because in the every day language people use 1, 2, 3, etc. referring also to PM hours: like le due del pomeriggio or “two in the afternoon,” le sei di sera or “six in the evening,” etc.

10. Dates are formatted as follows: day/month/year (4-10-2005= October 4th, 2005).

11. If when walking down the street you see a blue or pink ribbon on a building door or on a car, that means that a new baby boy or girl has arrived to cheer someone's life.

Did you know?

Many times friends of people who are about to get married post some joyful signs with the names of the bride and the groom-to-be along with their picture, or some funny phrases that usually remind them that they still have time to change their mind before committing to each other…

Blue ribbon on a building door: it’s a boy!

12. On the other hand if you happen to see the picture of someone with a cross next to it, then you are in front of an obituary. This is especially common in small towns.

Obituary

13. What if you see a big sticker with a "P" on the back and front of a car? That means the person driving is a principiante (a beginner driver), a silent message asking you to be patient with him or her while they learn the joy of driving in Italy. I should also note that these cars are not “Student Drivers” with an instructor riding in the car. In Italy all drivers who have just gotten their drivers license, or are practicing to get it, should put the “P” on their car and take it off only when they feel they have mastered good driving skills.

Principiante car

14. At the same time, people learning to drive with an instructor board cars with the insignia scuola guida.

Student driver car with instructor

15. Italy is not a dangerous country, however a little caution and common sense is suggested as in any other tourist places around the world. Muggings are rare, however tourists can be vulnerable to pick-pocketing especially in crowded areas and tourist sites as well as on public transportation.

It is advisable not to carry a large amount of money with you and preferably to hide your cash and valuables in an inside pocket or money belt.

Be also aware of the urchins: they are magicians in making your money disappear. They usually approach you carrying a large newspaper or boards and somehow they are able to steal your wallet.

Remember to keep your purse away from the street side while walking in the city. This is to avoid guys driving scooters who try to steal your purse and drive away.

Also don't leave valuables in your car, and especially don't leave them in sight. Always drive with the car doors locked!

Car theft is common in big cities and tourist places (as in any other part of the world). If you have no other choice but to leave something valuable in your car, remember to put it in the trunk before getting to your destination. Sometimes thieves hide and check your movements and if they see you putting your things in the trunk, they assume that's the first place to check for valuables.

In the unfortunate case that you lose your passport, ID or anything valuable, file a statement with the police. The police station is called questura.

16. If you are a US, Canadian or Australian citizen and are planning to stay in Italy for less than three months then you don't need a visa, but only a valid passport. Visas are required for visits exceeding three months.

If you reside outside the EU, USA, Canada or Australia, inquire with the Italian consulate or embassy. American travelers can inquire with the TDS agency which provides visas and other international travel documents (http://www.traveldocs.com).

17. Italians recycle their garbage by throwing it in special bins designated for paper, glass, plastic and of course, regular garbage.

Recycle bins

18. Many travel guides attempt to describe the way Italians dress for their every day life, but none of them actually show you how they look.

Business attire

Casual dress

19. In Italy there are several organizations responsible for public security and order. These are:

o Polizia di Stato: the National Police is in charge of patrolling highways and railways.

Police car

o Carabinieri, the Italian Military Corps with police functions;

Carabinieri

o Guardia di finanza, the Italian customs service (usually dressed in elegant gray uniforms) goes after tax evasion violations;

o Vigili urbani (or polizia municipale), are the Traffic Police who dispense parking tickets on the streets. In this regard, a friend of mine told me a word of wisdom: you don't want to be a Vigile Urbano in your own town...

Traffic Police

20. Now, let's have a brief look at some everyday prices. These prices may vary from town to town and from northern regions to southern regions. These are 2009 prices:

o A coffee at the bar (coffee house) costs around €1.

o A scoop of ice cream (gelato) is around €1.

o An Italian newspaper is about €1.

o A foreign newspaper may cost from €1.50 to 2.80.

o A bus ticket is around €1.

o A double room in a mid-class hotel in Florence, Rome or Venice ranges from €100 to €180.

o A meal with wine goes from €20 to €40 per person in a mid-range restaurant.

o A museum ticket is around €8-12.

Appendix A – Basic Glossary English to Italian

Address Indirizzo Afternoon Pomeriggio Airport Aeroporto Appetizer Antipasto Area code Prefisso Arrival Arrivi To ask Chiedere

Baggage storage service Deposito bagagli Bag Borsa Bank Banca Beer Birra Bicycle Bicicletta Bill Conto Billboard Orario dei treni Booklet Blocchetto Bottle Bottiglia Bread Pane Breakdown Guasto Breakfast Colazione Bus Autobus Bus terminal Capolinea Butter Burro Button Bottone To buy Comprare

“Do you understand?” Capisci? Car Macchina Car rental Autonoleggio

Car seat Seggiolino per la macchina Cart Carrello Cash Contante Cash register Cassa Changing table Fasciatoio Cheap Economico Cheese Formaggio Children Bambini Church Chiesa City Citta' Clinic Clinica Closed Chiuso Clothes Vestiti Coin Moneta Cold Freddo Cookie Biscotto Credit card Carta di credito Crosswalk Strisce pedonali Currency Valuta

Daily ticket Biglietto giornaliero Date Data Dead end Strada senza uscita Departure Partenza Diesel Gasolio Dimmed headlights Luci anabbaglianti Dinner Cena Directions Direzioni Discount Sconto Doctor Dottore Door Porta Double room Camera doppia Drink Bibita To drive Guidare Driver's license Patente di guida

To eat Mangiare Electricity Elettricita' Emergency Room Pronto Soccorso Entrance Entrata Evening Sera Exchange Office Ufficio di Cambio Exit Uscita Expensive Caro

Fare Tariffa Fast Veloce Fee Quota Ferry Traghetto Fine Multa First course Primo Fish Pesce Food Cibo Forbidden Vietato Forget Dimenticare Free Gratis Friday Venerdi’ Friend Amico

Gallon Gallone Gas Benzina Gas station Distributore di benzina To get off Scendere Glove Guanto Good Buono, bravo Gram Grammo Grocery store Negozio di alimentari

Happy Felice Heating system Riscaldamento Helmet Casco To help Aiutare High chair Seggiolone Highway Autostrada Hospital Ospedale Hotel Albergo

Ice Ghiaccio Ice Cream Gelato ID Documento d'identita' In advance In anticipo Insurance Assicurazione

J-K

Kids Bambini Kilometer Kilometro

Lane Corsia To learn Imparare Left Sinistra Lifestyle Stile di vita Light Luce Liter Litro Long-distance buses Pullman or corriere Lunch Pranzo

Mandatory Obbligatorio Market Mercato Mass Messa Meal Pasto Milk Latte Minute Minuto Mistake Errore Monday Lunedi’ Money Soldi Month Mese Moped Motorio Museum Museo Mile Miglia

National Holidays Festivita’ nazionali Newsstand Giornalaio Night Notte Non-smoking room Camera per non fumatori Noon Mezzogiorno Number Numero

One way Solo andata Optional Facoltativa Ounce Oncia

To park Parcheggiare Parking Parcheggio Parking disc Disco orario Parking meter Parchimetro To pass Sorpassare

To pay Pagare Pepper Peperone Pharmacy Farmacia Phone Telefono Phone card Carta telefonica Piece of paper Pezzo di carta Pitcher Brocca Plate Piatto Platform Banchina Plug adapter Adattatore per la presa di corrente Police Polizia Post Office Ufficio postale Price Prezzo Private hospital Ospedali privato Public phone Telefono pubblico Police Station Questura Pepperoni Salame piccante

Queen-size bed Letto matrimoniale Question Domanda Queue Code

Receipt Scontrino Refund Rimborso Regular headlights Luci anabbaglianti Regular ticket Biglietto ordinario To rent Noleggiare Reservation Prenotazione Reserve Prenotare Restaurant Ristorante Right Destra Road Strade Road sign Segnale stradale Room Camera

Saturday Sabato Schedule Orario Seat Posto Second course Secondo Self service ticket machines Distributori di biglietti automatici Shopping mall Centro commerciale Side dish Contorno Sidewalk Marciapiede Single bed Letto singolo Smoking Fumare Soccer Calcio Speed Velocita' Speed limit Limite di velocita' Square Piazza Stick shift Marce Store Negozio Street Strada Strike Sciopero Strolling Passeggiata Subway Metropolitana Sunday Domenica

Table Tavolo Tap water Acqua di rubinetto Thursday Giovedi’ Ticket Biglietto Ticket conductor Controllore Ticket office Biglietteria Time Ora, Tempo Tip Mancia To buy Comprare Tobacconist Tabaccaio Toll booth Casello Toll Pedaggio To touch Toccare

Traffic circle Rotonda Traffic light Semaforo Train Treno Train track Binario To travel Viaggiare Travel agency Agenzie di viaggio Trip Viaggio Tuesday Martedi’

Unleaded gas Benzina senza piombo

Voltage converter Trasformatore di corrente

To wait Aspettare Waiter Cameriere Warm Caldo Water Acqua Wednesday Mercoledi’ Week Settimana Weigh Pesare Window Finestre Wine Vino Withdrawal Prelievo Word Parola

X-Y-Z

Yield Dare la precedenza

Our blog and podcast

There is more to Italy than what I could fit on this eBook. I invite you to visit our blog http://www.ItalyFromTheInside.com for the latest tips, videos, screensavers and photos about this fascinating country and its culture.

And if you own an iPod / iPhone, you can subscribe to our podcast on iTunes at http://phobos.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?id=213044501.

CONCLUSION

My eBook ends here. Somebody told me I shouldn’t have revealed too much about Italy as it would have been better to leave space for adventures and unexpected surprises during your stay there. Well, there’s no doubt in my mind that you’ll certainly have many intriguing experiences in Italy even with the preparedness my eBook has given you.

The best way to approach Italy is to go there with an open mind and the curiosity for experiencing a different and interesting culture, and you’ll see that each day will bring you memories that you’ll treasure for a lifetime. I’m sure Italy won’t disappoint you, whether this is your first visit or your fifth.

I hope this eBook has been the right tool to help you prepare for your Italian vacation, or to simply expand your knowledge about one of the most beautiful countries in the world (at least in my unbiased opinion!).

Have a nice trip!

p.s. I’d love to hear your feedback about this eBook and / or suggestions for new topics to cover in future editions.

Please feel free to email me at [email protected]

PHOTO CREDITS All pictures are original work by Paolo Tosolini (© Tosolini LLC) Euro banknotes images courtesy of European Central Bank iPod image courtesy of Apple Inc.