VEGAS FIRST DAY OUT OF ALL FOR CHINA FASHION THE METROPOLITAN THE FLOCK BRAVED SUNDAY MUSEUM OF ART PREVIEWS NIGHT’S BONE-CHILLING ITS UPCOMING SHOW TEMPERATURES TO “CHINA: THROUGH THE DO WHAT MATTERS: THE BUSINESS OUTLOOK, NEW BRANDS AND MORE LOOKING GLASS.” PAGE 4 AT THE TRADE SHOWS IN LAS VEGAS. SECTION II GO TO PARTIES. PAGE 18

IN-STORE AND ONLINE BG’s 2020 Vision: A Major Makeover By DAVID MOIN

NEW YORK — On level six of Bergdorf Goodman, Joshua Schulman takes in the rawness of a floor WWD stripped of its merchandise and luxury trappings. “This is the fi rst complete gut renovation we’ve done in decades. You can see right down to the TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY studs,” said Schulman, the president of Bergdorf Goodman. Aside from the Central Park view, there’s not much to see, but he’s liking the unvarnished space for what it suggests is ahead for much of the store: renewal. Bergdorf Goodman, a division of the Neiman Marcus Group, has a fi ve-year plan, called BG 20/20, to reno- vate and update its women’s store and evolve bergdor- fgoodman.com. Coming up: “Modernist Collections” on six with The Row as the anchor; the “Lab” to spotlight emerging designers, also on six, and a reconfi gured Donna’s main fl oor to fi rmly delineate fi ne jewelry from leather goods and accessories. Jewelry becomes “a store within a store” on the 57th Street side, and “a grand hall” for leather goods will emerge off the Fifth Avenue entrance and fl ow into designer salons extending back and north to the 58th Street entrance. Back! Behind the scenes, the merchandising of berg- Start spreading the news. dorfgoodman.com is being transferred from Neiman Marcus Direct buyers, based in Dallas, to Bergdorf ’s Donna Karan, fashion’s most store buyers in New York. Those covering fi ne apparel, devoted New York handbags and shoes are now merchandising the Web advocate, site, and effective for pre-fall, 70 percent of the Web site’s merchandise will be bought by the store’s buyers. dazzled as Bergdorf ’s has been aggressive in social media brightly as COLLECTIONS and special events, yet there’s catching up to do with the city’s business online. The Web site, launched in 2004, began international shipping to 150 countries last skyline with NEW YORK FALL 2015 November through Borderfree, which helps com- the collection panies price in different currencies, with payment processing and other aspects of international ship- she showed on ping. “We have a very strong international following, Monday. It was SEE PAGE 8 Karan at her best — urbane, artful and pragmatic in her approach to dressing. Dollar’s New Strength And if she did it all with healthy shots of black and gold, well, Seen Driving Tourism that’s Donna being Donna. Here, her inventive tiered By SAMANTHA CONTI bustier over fl annel trousers. For more on Karan and the LONDON — Call it a tale of two continents. The plummeting euro and the pumped-up dol- New York collections, lar may be bad for American fi rms that rely heavily see pages 10 to 13. on international business, but the currency swings have unlocked new and lucrative opportunities for European luxury companies, retailers and bargain- hunting tourists alike. Brands including Tod’s Group SpA and Salvatore Ferragamo SpA saw their holiday sales in Europe rocket due to tourists — in particular, the Chinese — taking advantage of the weaker euro, while compa- nies including Burberry have already begun to reap the benefi ts of a currency — in this case the pound — that has fallen in value against the dollar. Meanwhile, U.S. fi rms from Avon to VF Corp. are already suffer- ing the squeeze from the stronger dollar. On the plus side, airport retailers, hotel groups and the tax-free shopping fi rm Global Blue are bracing themselves for a wave of Chinese and U.S. tourism to crash over Europe this year and next, as the American economy gains steam and the dollar strengthens. Morgan Stanley said in an FX Pulse report pub- lished in late January it expects the euro to be worth $1.05 by the end of this year, and $1 by 2016. The last time the euro and the dollar were matched in value was more than a decade ago, in late 2002. The economists at Barclays, meanwhile, are look- ing at a euro exchange rate of $1.07 by the end of PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI the year, while Wells Fargo Securities is slightly less SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 WWD.COM

Traub Launches Celebrity Division THE BRIEFING BOX sportswear company, where he had a 15-year ten- By LISA LOCKWOOD ure. He also established Imagemark, a promotional IN TODAY’S WWD products and marketing solutions business, which NEW YORK — Marvin Traub Associates has joined worked with global companies such as Citibank, Fox forces with Bruce H. Ross and John D. Goodman to Sports and Manpower to develop branded apparel Backstage at establish Traub Celebrity Group, a business devel- and merchandise. He also served as a consultant for 3.1 Phillip Lim. opment and advisory firm dedicated to working with the Lauren Conrad Collection, where he developed For more, see celebrities and athletes to guide and develop global a licensing agreement with Kohl’s. WWD.com. branded opportunities. Ross told WWD that when he left The business will be led by Ross and Imagemark in 2007, a friend contacted Goodman as co-managing directors. him about Lauren Conrad. “I fl ew out Ross has spearheaded the develop- to Los Angeles to meet the team and ment of new businesses for such celeb- she [Lauren] was in a factory and was rities as Tony Bennett, Lauren Conrad, actually pinning garments” — a good Jordin Sparks and Dara Torres, while sign, said Ross. “So many celebrity Goodman is credited with creating deals don’t work out because the celeb- the Kardashian Kollection at Sears; rity is in it for a paycheck... The most Sofía Vergara and Dream Out Loud by important thing to any deal is product.” Selena Gomez for Kmart, and Sandra Goodman teamed up with Ross in JENNA GREENE PHOTO BY by Sandra Lee for Sears and Kmart. Celebrity Fashion Group last October. Mortimer Singer, chief executive of- John D. Earlier, Goodman was ceo of The Wet Goodman Recent currency swings have unlocked new and fi cer of Traub, explained that celebri- Seal, Inc. for a year and a half and re- lucrative opportunities for European luxury companies, ties doing business in the retail space signed that post last August. Before retailers and bargain-hunting tourists alike. PAGE 1 is a phenomenon that has grown in im- that, he was executive vice president portance in the branding arena. of apparel and home at Sears Holding “Today, with social media and Corp., and was ceo of Charlotte Russe Bergdorf Goodman has a fi ve-year plan called BG 20/20 to renovate and update its women’s store and evolve other platforms, celebrity power is Holding. He has also been ceo and PAGE 1 unleashed in a way that’s never been president of Mervyn’s and president bergdorfgoodman.com. seen before because they’ve become of Dockers Brand. Goodman spent media outlets of their own,” said 10 years at Gap, Inc., where he devel- OVS SpA will make its debut on the Italian Stock Exchange Singer. Celebrities today don’t just oped and launched Gap, Inc.’s Banana on March 2 — the fi rst public listing in the country’s fashion want to do licensing deals, but they Republic and Old Navy outlet concepts. industry since Moncler’s in December 2013. PAGE 17 want to create companies which may, Goodman described the new celeb- or may not, bear their name. “They rity group as a “one-stop shop for rep- Giorgio Armani is Bruce launching a new bag that also marks resenting global celebrities.” Ross said want to get into the consumer branded H. Ross the 40th anniversary of his brand and for the fi rst time, the business and use their celebrity as a the company will be working with tal- accessory will be unveiled at two luxury retailers. PAGE 19 marketing engine,” he said. ent agencies, managers and manage- For example, 50 Cent owns 5 percent of Vitamin ment companies, as well as manufacturers looking i-D Magazine is expanding its team in New York, with Water; Jessica Alba started Honest Co., and Kate to expand their business by developing new product more than 10 hires to come this year. It will also open Hudson cofounded Fabletics, an activewear fi rm. lines, and retailers and department stores looking to offi ces in Asia. PAGE 19 While those examples are unrelated to his fi rm, develop exclusive celebrity product offerings. Singer noted one of his partners helped Paul The celebrity fi eld is dominated by fi rms such Newman do a lemonade deal when Newman was as Creative Artists Agency and William Morris ON WWD.COM building his charity-based branded foods enterprise. Endeavor, which have divisions that handle celebri- Last year, Traub Associates did a deal with bur- ty endorsements. CAA, for example, has done deals BACKSTAGE AT NYFW: WWD goes behind the scenes lesque star Dita Von Teese for a lingerie collection with George Clooney and Omega watches; Penélope backstage at the fall shows. For more from New York for Bloomingdale’s and a diffusion line, Von Follies Cruz and Agent Provocateur; Jennifer Lawrence Fashion Week, see WWD.com/runway. by Dita Von Teese, for the midmarket. The fi rm is and Dior, and Carrie Underwood and Dick’s now working with fi ve international stars, but Singer Sporting Goods for an activewear line called Calia said it was too soon to disclose their identities. by Carrie Underwood. WME’s deals include Robert Ross founded Celebrity Fashion Group in 2009 Pattinson and Dior; Emma Stone and Revlon, and FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA and was earlier president of JH Collectibles, the Serena Williams and Nike. @ WWD.com/social

TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Yoox Launching E-commerce App in China VOLUME 209, NO. 33. TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, June, August, September, October, November and December, tomers is a love for ‘Made in Italy’ brands,” he said. and two additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. By LARA FARRAR “Shoes are among the top-bought categories. Female Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian Chinese customers love high heels while male cus- addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE BEIJING — Yoox is going mobile in China. tomers prefer sneakers.” INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at Yoox Group entered China around fi ve years ago, The executive said the company welcomes an wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, hosting fl agship online shopping sites on the main- investigation by China’s antitrust regulator over un- option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further land for fashion brands such as Emporio Armani. fair business practices in the country’s e-commerce obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. Two years later, the e-tailer launched its own site sector. On Friday, China’s National Development You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four for Chinese consumers. and Reform Commission revealed a probe into pos- weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business and production correspondence to Now, indicative of the rise of mobile commerce sible unfair marketing and sales tactics used by WWD, 475 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656, in China, Yoox, under the domain name Yoox.com. mainland e-commerce companies. The investigation or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. cn here, revealed on Monday that it is launching a did not name specifi c companies. For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666.Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. mobile e-commerce app for its Chinese clientele. “Yoox is dedicated to creating a healthy online WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED “In China, the mobile shopping market is sky- shopping environment for customers and brand part- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, rocketing,” said Luca Martines, the Milan-based ners through our transparent products with direct ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY Yoox Group International Markets director. origins,” Martines said, adding that in China the e- REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST In 2014, Chinese consumers spent more than 929 tailer has launched an exclusive antifraud program BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. million yuan, or nearly $150 million, shopping via using radio frequency identifi cation, or RFID, track- mobile devices, according to iResearch, a Beijing- ing technology to ensure product authenticity. based Internet research fi rm. By 2016, iResearch Martines said Yoox’s full-priced operations, predicts transactions made via mobile in China will which includes its Chinese version of the full-priced surpass those made via personal computers. fashion e-tailer site Thecorner.com, as well as 14 “For Yoox Group, the Chinese customer is the monobrand luxury e-tailing sites on the mainland, youngest in the world, with more than 50 percent are achieving “positive results.” of these customers below age 30,” Martines said. “Over the past four years.…We have seen a rise of “This is the new generation of customers. They are the young, Chinese middle-class becoming sophisti- tech-savvy. They engage with brands through being cated, experienced shoppers,” he said. hyper-connected and socially active online and have Martines added that in terms of buying full- rapidly embraced tablet technology. This was a big priced luxury online, male consumers in China are opportunity not to be missed.” more likely to pay more than females. Yoox’s mobile app in China allows mainland con- “Amongst Chinese consumers, men’s wear purchas- sumers to see what other shoppers around the world es from our full-priced channel make up more than 70 are purchasing in Milan, Paris and New York. It also percent of net sales,” he said. “This contrasts with con- has a feature that offers Chinese clientele an area sumer trends on a global scale, where women’s wear where they can discover exclusive global collabora- and men’s wear net sales shares are almost equal.” tions, capsule collections and inspiring trends. In 2014, sales in other countries grew 32.1 per- A “China for China” section provides localized cent, accelerating by 41.4 percent in the fourth content and exclusive promotions. quarter, driven by Yoox.com in China, which ben- Martines said one factor driving Yoox’s sales is efi ted from the extension of its offer following the Chinese consumers’ preference for Italian products. introduction of the complementary logistics setup in “Generally speaking, the trend among Chinese cus- February last year. 1HZ%HJLQQLQJV 2XU)LUVW/DGLHV57 :&ROOHFWLRQ /DXQFKLQJ)DOO ,QWKHWUXHVSLULWRIRXUOHJDF\,QWKHWUXHVSLULWRIRXUOHJDF\ ZHFRQWLQXHWRɊQGQHZZD\VZHFRQWLQXHWRɊQGQHZZD\V WRFRPELQHWKHFODVVLFVWRFRPELQHWKHFODVVLFV ZLWKWKHFRQWHPSRUDU\ZLWKWKHFRQWHPSRUDU\ SURYLQJWKDWSURYLQJWKDW DWUXHRULJLQDOLVDOZD\VLQGHPDQG FRQWDFWXVDWLQIR#JLLLFRP 4 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015

From left: The 15th-century “Jar With Dragon,” a 2005 Roberto Cavalli evening dress and an Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton evening dress at the “China: Through the Looking Glass” preview. At right: A glimpse at more fashions.

Gaultier, Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten, Giambattista Valli, Jason Wu, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior and Coco Chanel are among the other de- signers who will be represented. Yahoo has signed on as the exhibi- tion’s lead sponsor with additional sup- port provided by Condé Nast and what The Met described as “several generous Chinese donors.” In celebration of the exhibition’s The Art of Style: Met Previews China Exhibition opening, Chou will be the honorary chair of the Costume Institute Benefi t on May 4. This year’s cochairs are Jennifer Lawrence, Gong Li, Marissa Meyer, Wendi By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG An 18th-century Chinese festival robe with a fall 2004 Tom Ford for Yves Saint Murdoch and Anna Wintour. Laurent evening dress and a women’s court robe with a Ralph Lauren ensemble. Inspired partially by the topsy-turvy NEW YORK — About an hour after sun- world of Lewis Carroll’s “Alice’s Adventures rise, some Eastern-thinking members in Wonderland,” the Met show will de- of the fashion crowd were up and at ’em pict its own fi ctional universe, albeit one Monday at the Metropolitan Museum of with precise historical and modern ref- Art’s press preview for “China: Through erences. A series of mirrored refl ections the Looking Glass.” will be set up to zero in on Imperial China, The hybrid show of fashion, fi lm and art the Republic of China and the People’s will be staged in the Met’s Chinese Galleries Republic of China, Bolton said. The show and the Anna Wintour Costume Center will “reveal itself through a series of narra- from May 7 through Aug. 16. Through the tive spaces that are constantly being reorga- juxtaposition of 130 couture and nized by free association. As if by magic, the avant-garde ready-to-wear pieces FOR MORE, SEE physical distance between East and West, with Chinese costumes, paint- which often seems monolithic and diamet- ings, fi lms, porcelains and other WWD.com/ rically opposed, diminishes,” he added. art, visitors will learn how China fashion-news. Addressing a crowd that included Silas has sparked fashionable imagi- Chou, Wendi Deng and Thom Browne, nations for centuries. Lest any the exhibition’s artistic director, Oscar- attendees worry that the upcoming show nominated director Wong Kar-wai said would be steeped solely in China’s past, an he was honored that some of his work, as 18th-century Chinese festival robe will be well as those of his peers, had inspired PHOTOS BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN PHOTOS BY paired with a striking evening dress from some of the fashion that will be featured. Tom Ford’s fall 2004 Yves Saint Laurent col- of “Raise the Red Lantern,” “Crouching the Chinese Galleries. “Women of Style” Wearing his signature sunglasses, he gave lection and a 15th-century “Jar With Dragon” Tiger, Hidden Dragon,” “Farewell My vignettes for Oei Huilan, Soong May-ling attendees much to ponder. Noting that will be displayed with a similarly patterned Concubine” and “In the Mood for Love.” and Empress Dowager Cixi will be on view the show’s Chinese title is “Mirror, Water, 2005 Roberto Cavalli evening dress. Bolton and his Costume Institute team in the Anna Wintour Costume Center’s Flower, Moon,” Wong said those are recur- To illustrate how fi lms affect our image collaborated with the Department of Asian Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery. The ring symbols in Chinese art that represent of China and to underline the importance Art to imagine the upcoming show, which Astor Court will house costumes worn by projection, refl ection and fascination. As of cinema as a means of understanding will encompass fashion from the 1700s Chinese opera star Mei Lanfang, the in- Buddhist scripture said, “In the sky, there’s the richness of the Asian giant’s history, to today through an assortment of inter- spiration for John Galliano’s spring 2003 no distinction from East and West. People Andrew Bolton, curator of the Costume plays. Styles will be displayed opposite Christian Dior couture collection. Sarah make these distinctions in their minds and Institute, on Monday showed video clips decorative arts from Imperial China in Burton for Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul believe them to be true.” Millar Taps Jason Cater Warburg Pincus Turns to Indonesia JASON CATER HAS joined Peter Millar er quality service and growth to our tenants and as vice president of design and mer- By EVAN CLARK stakeholders,” said Wilson Effendy, chief execu- Jason chandising, collection. tive offi cer of Nirvana. Cater Cater has 17 years of experience WARBURG PINCUS IS betting $125 million on Warburg Pincus managing director Jeffrey and has been with Ermenegildo the growth of retail in Indonesia. Perlman added that, “With a rapidly expanding mid- Zegna for the past eight, where he The private equity giant is teaming with real dle class and a nascent modern retail sector outside was vice president of wholesale for estate fi rm Nirvana Development to create a of Jakarta, there is a meaningful opportunity to con- Ermenegildo Zegna Sportswear, joint venture that will “build and develop a best- tribute to Indonesia’s consumption transformation.” Shoes and Leather Goods. Before in-class retail platform in Indonesia,” according Indonesia ranked 15th in A.T. Kearney’s 2014 that, he was the national sales man- to a statement. Global Retail Development Index and was de- ager at Paul & Shark. Pincus has the option to invest another $75 mil- scribed by the consultancy as a “bright market “Jason’s experience in the luxury lion into the venture, which will put together hy- with challenges” and a “strong retail market in sportswear category will be invalu- permarket-anchored shopping malls in the island the mid-to-long term.” able to Peter Millar as the company nation’s second- and third-tier cities. The compa- “Underpenetrated tier-two cities are starting continues to experience considerable nies intend to “capitalize on the growth potential to see growth in modern retail,” the consultancy growth in the U.S. and internation- driven by rapid urbanization, emerging consump- said in its annual ranking of developing mar- ally,” said Scott Ruerup, president of tion and outsize economic growth in these areas.” kets. “Local department store Matahari Putra Peter Millar Collection. The partnership, subject to shareholder Prima and developer PT Lippo Karawaci plan Cater will work with the brand’s existing design team including approval and expected to close in the second to expand aggressively to untapped markets in Chris Knott, founder; Mike Bowers, vice president of design and quarter, will expand Nirvana’s operations and smaller cities and on the outskirts of Jakarta, merchandising, golf, and Lindsay Browder, women’s design director. be seeded with four operating assets and other the largest city.” Scott Mahoney, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Peter Millar, projects under development. South Korea’s Lotte Shopping, France’s said Cater will add a “fresh perspective and creative vision” to the “With this plan, we will seek to enhance and Galeries Lafayette and Japan’s Uniqlo all en- Richemont-owned brand. — JEAN E. PALMIERI expand our retail relationships to further deliv- tered the market in 2013.

6 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 Weaker Euro Leads to Uptick in Tourist Spending {Continued from page one} Over the past year, the yuan the Swiss currency soaring and of retail strategy, said the air- they translate sales and profi ts bullish, with a projection of $1.17 has risen 17 percent against the threatening exports. port has been grooming itself made in foreign territories back by year’s end. euro, and Levy added that while In addition, the European in a bid to better serve the high- into dollars. Burberry, Kering, The euro closed at $1.14 the exchange rate will certainly Central Bank launched a $1.3 tril- spending international shopper. Ferragamo and Richemont against the dollar on Monday, support Chinese tourism spend- lion fi scal stimulus plan to jump- Heathrow Terminal 5 carries all suffered from — and com- and the pound was worth $1.53. ing in Europe, “we could see some start the region’s languid econ- 22 fashion brands, and the month plained bitterly about — similar Retailers are at the ready for price increases to balance that.” omy while Greece voted for the of December alone saw a string of headwinds when the euro and the bulked-up greenback. Earlier this month, HSBC anti-austerity Syriza party, which one-off openings including Louis pound were at their height. Selfridges in London has just said in a report that the Chinese is aiming to renegotiate the coun- Vuitton’s fi rst European airport “With Tiffany & Co. we saw a unveiled a customer services now represent “close to a third” try’s debt — without much suc- store, a 3,240-square-foot unit; weakness in holiday sales in the space catering specifi cally to the of all luxury sales, with more cess so far. The election result the fi rst stand-alone boutique for U.S., and I think that some of it needs of foreign tax-free shop- than two thirds of their purchas- punched the euro down tempo- Cartier inside an airport, and a was due to missed tourist sales pers. The store said it invested ing happening outside China. rarily to an 11-year low of $1.11. Diane von Furstenberg “Wrap in the U.S. from the stronger “multimillions” on the new fourth- The HSBC report added that As Greece — now plagued Shop” at Harrods, a pop-up store. dollar,” said Levy of Barclays. fl oor space, which has its own Tax the sharp rises of the Chinese with fresh credit downgrades Gray said the airport’s Late last month, Wells Fargo Refund Lounge, two Tax Free pro- yuan and U.S. dollar against the and mounting bailout costs — Chinese New Year celebrations Securities analyst Paul Lejuez cessing halls, and VIP areas for euro and pound over the past six struggles with lenders to broker are getting bigger each year, reduced his 2015 earnings es- high-net-worth individuals. months and the ongoing political a debt restructuring deal, fears with Chinese speakers on the timates for Gap Inc., The TJX The store has even built an tensions in Hong Kong are reshap- are escalating that the country airport fl oor guiding tourists to Cos. Inc., Abercrombie & Fitch unadorned “Faith Room” where ing tourism patterns and driving could exit the euro zone. British shops and Chinese cuisine on Co. and Lululemon Athletica customers of any religion can more Chinese tourists abroad, to Prime Minister David Cameron offer during the holiday period. Inc. based on accelerating head- worship or meditate during the Europe and other parts of Asia. earlier this month held a spe- “When the pound is weaker, winds from foreign currency. shopping day. The store said The Chinese are not the cial meeting at Downing Street we do see a big uplift in sales, His colleague Evren Dogan its international business has only ones taking advantage of a but we also know that currency Kopelman did the same for VF grown consistently over recent weaker euro and pound. is a dangerous beast to rely on. Corp., PVH Corp. and Ralph years, and the new space is set Gordon Clark, country man- What we’re doing is taking mea- Lauren Corp. based on “nega- to accommodate future growth. ager, U.K. and Ireland, at Global sures to ensure that airport re- tive currency impact given the Harvey Nichols is mark- Blue, said the U.S. is already one tail remains resilient,” he said. strengthening U.S. dollar and ing Chinese New Year, which of the top 10 spending nations $1.14 As the dollar strengthens, the these companies’ signifi cant in- starts Wednesday, with a special in the U.K., with an average 575 airport is also preparing to nur- ternational exposure.” edit of products across fashion, pounds ($876) a transaction. “As CLOSING PRICE OF THE EURO ture its U.S. clientele. “New York In a research note issued beauty and food, and working the exchange rates sway in their VERSUS THE DOLLAR MONDAY. is Heathrow’s biggest destination, after the recent Outdoor with the top Chinese chef Ching- favor, American shoppers will and we’re always keeping an eye Retailer show in Salt Lake City, He Huang on a special “Yin fl ock in,” he told WWD. on that market,” Gray said. “What J.P. Morgan analyst Matthew Yang” menu at its restaurants. During last month’s men’s to discuss the possibility of we’re working on now is cultivat- Boss pointed to “three areas The store, owned by the Hong wear shows in Paris, Ahmet Ocal, a Greek exit from the zone, ing ‘pre-awareness’ of Heathrow’s of near-term exposure” for VF Kong businessman Dickson buying director of men’s merchan- Britain’s largest trading partner. retail offer — and the glamour with respect to currency, the Poon, cited statistics from the dise group for Turkey’s Beymen, Even with all the uncertainty, of travel. We want to get our fi rst being that about 22 percent tourist shopping service Premier said he planned to spend more Europe’s luxury brands and re- American cousins excited about of sales come from Europe, Tax Free that 23,000 Chinese vis- in Paris than he had in previous tailers are rejoicing. the airport shopping experience.” with about two-thirds in euro- itors are expected to come to the years. “We believe the weak euro Not only do Europe’s luxury The newly powerful dollar zone markets. U.K. this month, an increase of will have a positive impact on the fi rms benefi t from plumped up is also fueling the dreams of While acknowledging the 26.1 percent on last year. local customers. Retail prices will quarterly reports due to favor- British companies looking to set negative impact of currency According to Global Blue, be relatively low, which will af- able currency translations, but a up shop in the U.S. fluctuations is likely to last Chinese tourist spending in fect the sell-through positively as signifi cant portion of their costs According to a study by Royal through the remainder of Europe overall grew 18.3 per- well,” he said. are euro-based, while nearly Mail, the U.S. has overtaken the year, VF’s chairman and cent in 2014, with a spike of Over the past year, the dol- half of sales are in dollars or Europe as the top target for in- chief executive officer Eric 49.4 percent year-on-year in lar has risen about 17.5 per- dollar-pegged currencies. ternational expansion for the Wiseman also indicated there the month of December. In the cent against the euro and al- The exception is Switzerland, Brits, with 39 percent of online is a plus side to the stronger U.K., the Chinese were the top- most 10 percent against the which now has a powerful cur- retailers surveyed saying they dollar: It makes overseas ac- spending nationality in 2014. pound. Much of that growth rency that will weigh on costs will be targeting America, com- quisitions cheaper. Their spend increased 20 per- was achieved in January, an and dent exports. Compagnie pared to 30 percent looking at “International is looking cent year-on-year in December. extraordinary month from a Financière Richemont revealed European countries. more and more attractive to us “The price differential is wid- macroeconomic point of view: last month at the SIHH show in The dollar is decidedly less because of the strength of the ening between China and Europe,” Europe slipped into defl ation, Geneva that prices for its watch good for U.S. companies that U.S. dollar,” he said in discuss- said Laura Levy, a luxury analyst the price of Brent crude oil and jewelry brands such as rely on international trade ing VF’s acquisitions strategy, at Barclays in London. “It’s about dropped below $50 a barrel for Cartier and Piaget would rise and tourist traffic. Not only “and we’re continuing to have 50 percent now, compared with 30 the fi rst time in nearly six years, 5 to 7 percent in euros. Swatch are their goods more expen- discussions with people.” to 35 percent historically, which and the Swiss National Bank said some of its brands’ prices sive in the eyes of the traveling — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS means it’s much cheaper for the made a shock decision to de-peg would rise by 5 to 10 percent. Europeans and Chinese, their FROM MILES SOCHA AND Chinese to shop in Europe.” the franc from the euro, sending Kim Gray, Heathrow’s head quarterly results suffer when ARNOLD J. KARR

It’s unfortunate to have these kinds Puma Sees Potential in Women’s of impacts,” lamented Gulden. To support a slight increase laboration with the singer would are fashion and lifestyle icons. in net earnings, the company By PAULINA SZMYDKE trickle through, the fi rst women’s I have three kids and they has taken countermeasures, training collection actually code- are affected by three things: most notably price increases PARIS — Following a successful signed by Rihanna would be ready Music, sports — and that damn and a slower shipment of orders, launch of its Forever Faster cam- for 2016. The fi rst campaign front- computer,” he said, suggesting which are not likely to generate paign and expensive sponsor- ed by the multitasking Grammy that the lines between those cat- The Ignite a positive sell-through. “I can ship deals, which in total cost the Award winner and CFDA fashion egories have blurred. “When you running shoe. tell you, actual sales in Russia company an undisclosed eight- icon, meanwhile, is slated to hit have a performance shoe that is were positive until the first figure sum, Puma still has “one newsstands in the fall. worn on the street, then you won. week of January, but went down major issue,” acknowledged its “I am often asked why an art- And Puma is a sports brand that after Christmas [celebrated by chief executive officer Bjørn ist and not an athlete,” Gulden caters to the streets.” For the Russians on Jan. 6]. It was pretty Gulden, “and that’s women.” said at the conference, explain- The Herzogenaurach, full year of 2014, Puma regis- dramatic,” Gulden divulged. Speaking during a live Webcast ing: “We couldn’t fi nd an athlete Germany-based fi rm said consoli- tered sales of 2.97 billion euros, Exchange rates are likely to con- on Monday, following the release that would open all the doors.” dated sales rose 6.3 percent in cur- or $3.95 billion, up 3.3 percent on tinue causing headwinds. “We can of the activewear fi rm’s full-year Rihanna’s millions of follow- rency-adjusted terms in the fourth a currency-adjusted basis, while talk about a midsingle-digit growth results, Gulden recognized the ers on social media, her fashion- quarter, driven by a “remarkable operating profi t stood at 128 mil- in 2015, with sales probably fl at- women’s category was still a long savvy aesthetics and overall fi t- growth in accessories” (up 17.1 lion euros, or $170 million. ish in the fi rst half as we are going way from its potential, despite a ness level were a refl ection of percent), further recovery of the Gulden said the fi rst product against the World Cup and a strong surge of female customers step- the image Puma was eager to footwear category (up 4.3 per- endorsed by Rihanna would be growth in the second half,” he said, ping into the active sports arena. get across. Gulden remarked cent) and stronger demand in the Ignite, a running shoe that prom- adding: “Unfortunately, there still Gulden let it be known he that people often overlooked Americas, which rose 15 percent. ises maximum energy return and will be negative currency effects, was betting his cards on Puma’s how much artists have to train Total sales stood at 750.8 mil- was launched for men by Usain but we are shooting for an improve- new brand ambassador and cre- “to survive in the industry.” lion euros, or $938 million, during Bolt in New York last week. ment in gross profi t margin.” ative director of the women’s fi t- Puma’s choice to employ a mu- the three-month period ending Women were not the only An upgraded store format ness and training line — singer sician instead of an athlete is also a Dec. 31, which was in line with topic on the executive’s mind. is also in the works, sched- Rihanna, who had her first sign of the fi rm’s determination to expectations, the company noted. Currency issues were just as uled to roll out in Hong Kong, creative session with the fi rm’s hold on to its lifestyle vision, which Operating profit, meanwhile, pressing, and nowhere were Herzogenaurach and Prague design team in December, as re- has previously gotten the company amounted to 10.6 million euros, or they felt more than in Russia. this year. “It’s no surprise: when ported by WWD on Dec. 16. into trouble. But the ceo upheld: $13.2 million, compared with a loss “We had a currency-adjusted we actually get the windows and The executive revealed, while “Sports has a huge infl uence on of 127.9 million euros, or $174 mil- growth there of 27 percent in Q4, the space to present our brand limited editions created in col- lifestyle. Athletes and entertainers lion, in the same quarter last year. but we reported minus 13 percent. image, it works,” Gulden said.

8 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 BG 20/20 Prescribes a Major Makeover {Continued from page one} it as a plain white box or a sim- but we purposely held back ple street of shops that you see until we [started] the realign- in Galeries Lafayette or Isetan.” ment,” said Schulman, who “It’s been a very disjoint- wears a second hat as president ed shopping experience,” of NMG International, including Schulman admitted. “Customers overseeing the Munich-based would come into the 57th Street Mytheresa.com division ac- side of the store and they’d quired last year. think that’s all there is with For NMG overall, online leather goods, but we’ve had sales account for 24 percent of leather goods on all sides.”

total sales, but bergdorfgood- Opening next fall will be a man.com is “underpenetrated jewelry complex, or “store-with- to the group,” Schulman ac- in-a-store,” supported by the knowledged. “We see bergdor- 57th Street windows devoted fgoodman.com as an important entirely to the category instead opportunity. In today’s world, of ready-to-wear, and a private

it’s important to have synchron- viewing room that Bergdorf ’s icity between online and of- lacked before. For those most- fl ine.” With apparel brands like precious jewelry transactions, Akris and Loro Piana, in-depth staff had to ferry customers merchandising and shop build- upstairs to any executive of- outs have established BG’s fi ce that wasn’t occupied at the brick and mortar as a dominant ’’ time. “We are going to treat the luxury player. But online, “we 57th Street side as another front haven’t had that full breadth,” door for Bergdorf Goodman,” Schulman said. “It’s an area we Schulman said. Refining that can really distinguish Bergdorf section of the store into an area Goodman from a lot of other that’s unabashedly jewelry, with Web sites out there.” Verdura, Lorraine Schwartz, Bergdorf is already re- G International, David Webb nowned for its high productiv- and Solange Azagury Partridge, ity. With BG 20/20, the objective A rendering of Bergdorf’s among the lines carried exclu- is to raise it further by making designer jewelry complex. sively by Bergdorf ’s, makes shopping easier, focusing on the most important designers, mod- ernizing the environment with- out diminishing from the clas- We don’t envision it as a plain white box sic Beaux Arts elegance, and staying one step ahead of the or a simple street of shops that you see competition in a city where re- tail development is on steroids. Saks Fifth Avenue has a $250 in Galeries Lafayette or Isetan. million plan to overhaul its fl ag- ship and is grappling with the — LINDA FARGO, BERGDORF GOODMAN complexities of rethinking the footprint. Nordstrom will open at 225 West 57th Street, between Broadway and Seventh Avenue, A rendering of The Row, which will anchor the Modernist area. in 2018, and is eyeing downtown for a second full-line Manhattan store. And Neiman Marcus in 2018 will open in Hudson Yards, under development on Manhattan’s far-west side. It’s not that Bergdorf Goodman is broken. The goal is ’’ to make a good thing better in a market that continues to at- tract luxury flagships. While Bergdorf ’s has virtually no room Linda Fargo and left to grow square footage, the Joshua Schulman, on space can be put to better use, Bergdorf’s sixth-fl oor at least as Bergdorf ’s execu- construction site.

tives see it. They declined to dis- JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY cuss volume, but sources said the goal is to eventually crack tives say the special Bergdorf The Row will double its ing to display merchandise sense given what’s just outside $1 billion in annual sales from DNA — it’s sense of discovery square footage in Modernist, in from such designers as Cedric on the corners of 57th Street last year’s approximate $750 from fl oor to fl oor as to what’s a penthouselike setting designed Charlier, Preen, Zero + Maria and Fifth Avenue — Bulgari, million in sales. The Bergdorf around the corner — won’t go by the Kramer Design Group and Cornejo, Tomas Maier, Baja Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels. Goodman business comprises away. “This is a fi ve-year plan, decorated by the Olsen twins with East, Co and Adam Lippes. Right off the Fifth Avenue en- the 150,000-square-foot women’s altering a substantial amount of vintage furniture. “They have an “They are brands to be nur- trance, there will be a grand hall store, bergdorfgoodman.com the store. We will keep the his- incredible eye,” Fargo said. “We tured,” Schulman said. “We’re for leather goods surrounded by and the 41,000-square-foot men’s toric architecture and the clas- asked them to treat this as if it making a commitment to them salons for leather goods and ac- store across the avenue, which sical bones but really modern- were their own apartment.” She and it’s over time. This is cessories including Dior, Chanel, completed a renovation last year. ize the shopping experience,” said that the line, which the store not a rotating pop-up shop.” Tom Ford, Nancy Gonzalez, On the women’s side, there Schulman said. started carrying six years ago, is Sportswear will be the core of Céline, Valentino and Goyard. have been several changes al- “You have to balance tradi- now “one of our largest designer the assortment, though knitwear “Nothing is wrong with the ready since Schulman became tional and classical elements sportswear businesses.” and dress resources could be in- main fl oor. It is beautiful,” said president nearly three years with things that are modern and Another of Bergdorf ’s cluded, he explained. Schulman. “But we’re improv- ago, like new handbag shops still keep it warm,” said Linda Modernists, Brunello Cucinelli, Also coming to six, new inti- ing sight lines, taking advantage for Prada, Tom Ford, Dior and Fargo, senior vice president of “started with some V-necks in mate apparel and coat areas, as of more vertical merchandising, Chanel, and in ready-to-wear, the fashion offi ce and store pre- the men’s store. Now it’s become Bergdorf attempts to “align our and we see a mix of a classic new shops for Céline, Saint sentation. “We never see our- one of our most-important busi- families of business in a more service model with elements of Laurent, Alexander McQueen, selves as a ‘cool’ store.” nesses for men’s and women’s,” holistic way,” Schulman said. open-sell, instead of what’s been Valentino, Stella McCartney and Modernist Collections, repre- Schulman observed. Others On the main fl oor, Bergdorf ’s a traditional associate-behind- Proenza Schouler. The main and senting phase one of the sixth- set for the Modernists area are will embark on its most-signif- the-glass-counter format. It will sixth fl oors present somewhat fl oor renovation, opens in April, Moncler, Derek Lam, Narciso icant renovation since beauty allow us to show our existing disjointed shopping experi- as Bergdorf ’s reimagines an en- Rodriguez, Max Mara, Lela Rose was relocated to the basement brands better and really have ences for the affl uent, demand- vironment that’s lacked visibility and Donna Karan. Included will in 1999. “You might call it a re- product authority in important ing clientele. Bergdorf ’s was and cohesion. “Six represented be a fi tting room that Schulman newal. It’s not quite a gut reno- jewelry and leather goods busi- originally built as a series of the best of 1980s store design,” said will be as large as his fi rst vation,” Fargo said, noting that nesses and introduce a few new townhouses, carved up and let Schulman said. He wants it gone. Manhattan apartment. He would the idea is to preserve historic brands to the mix. to various vendors, making the “From a design point of view, six not discuss any square footage. elements and architectural de- “By fall 2016, you will see a navigation choppy. More walls will be one of our most-modern The Lab will have hanging tails such as the moldings and completely new and refreshed will come down, though execu- fl oors,” Fargo added. bars suspended from the ceil- chandeliers. “We don’t envision main fl oor experience,” he said. T HERE’ SAN EW L OOK ON M ADISON

MADISON 935 AVENUE

Newly constructed retail spaces with soaring ceilings, open layouts and a restored historic façade.

Situated on one of the most exclusive shopping corridors in the world and surrounded by new transformative neighbors.

Opportunities from 1,100 to 14,000 square feet, available Spring 2015.

It’s a great look and a must see.

ARIEL SCHUSTER 212.331.0132 JOEL E. ISAACS 646.710.3890 JACKIE TOTOLO 212.916.3392 JOSHUA LEWIN 646.710.3889 rkf.com isaacsandcompany.com

All information is from sources believed reliable, not independently verified, and thus subject to errors, omissions, and modifications such as price, listing, square footage, rates and commissions. All information, estimates and projections subject to change, market assumptions, unknown facts and conditions, and future potentialities. RKF and Isaacs and Company make no express or implied representations or warranties, as facts and results may vary materially from all information, estimates and projections. 10 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015

Donna Karan: Fabulous! Here were Donna the urbane New Yorker, Donna the sophisticate, Donna the sartorial conversationalist speaking “woman to woman,” Donna the exacting colorist (you’ve got black and gold, you’re good), Donna the pragmatist, Donna the artistic New York’s Finest soul, Donna the savvy designer who 30 years ago laid out a wardrobe platform for busy women who crave chic that works, and who has inspired legions of designers who followed her into this industry. Missing were self-indulgent Donna, my-philanthropy- informs-my-runway Donna, pretend antifashion Donna, all of the Donnas who have at various times gotten into the head of the smart, gifted woman who made herself one of the most important designers in the history of American fashion by connecting so directly with her customer. This time, the brilliant Donna showed them the door. The set sent a message of happily intense expectation: the New York skyline at night, the myriad windows aglow in support of that line about the place never sleeping. And when a woman’s up and about, Donna wants her dressed to the nines. The opening look might as well have been a chic sandwich board heralding, “I’m back!” The black and gold of the metallic coat referenced (for those old enough to know) Karan’s start, yet did so without a drop of retro, not in mood, cut or styling, certainly not in the combination of indulgent padded coat with sleek pin- striped bustier and trousers. In fact, Karan seemed to have hit the refresh button on her tailoring — it rocked. Particularly impressive: the way in which she went back and forth between pure urbanity and a more artful take on chic, a nondissonant dichotomy established from the get-go. Look two spoke to the former, a sleek brocade jacket over poplin shirt and fl annel-and-chiffon skirt, a belted shaved- shearling scarf intensifying the men’s wear reference. Look three represented the artist within: a strapless bustier of incongruous fabric layers (pinstripes, metallic, tulle) over trousers. Throughout, Donna worked the counterpoint with perfect balance; the yoga coach should be as tickled as her customers. The high points were many, the low points, nonexistent. In the former category: spectacular outerwear, from richy-rich metallics and embroideries in mannish shapes to cocooning shearlings; dresses and blouses with volume where it doesn’t hurt, in graceful lantern sleeves; untricky layers, and — drumroll — two black strapless evening gowns that were better than beautiful. They were interesting, too. But then, Donna Karan has never been lean on interesting. She’s just let it FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE get out of hand at times. Not this time. New York’s fi nest? WWD.com/ Yes, but why limit her? This runway. season, Donna is Fashion’s Finest. How fi ne is that? — BRIDGET FOLEY WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 11 WWD.COM

COLLECTIONS NEW YORK FALL 2015 WHITE COAT PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER; ALL OTHERS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI STEVE EICHNER; ALL OTHERS BY PHOTO BY WHITE COAT 12 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015

Tommy Carolina Thom The Row Hilfi ger Herrera Browne

FALL 2015 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

Tommy Hilfi ger: Never afraid to embrace the number 30, for 30 years of Tommy water works for a needle-punched dress aggression. Browne explored the dark a theme in earnest, Tommy Hilfi ger Hilfi ger. It was a happy collection of with gradient textures from classic Prince side of wistful beauty with intensely transformed the Park Avenue Armory into Americana, a little kitsch but well of Wales to soft mohair, and digressed from labored materials. It was fantastic. a football stadium, practically to scale, done in luxury fabrics. The only thing her primary palette with shocks of red that “It’s a beautiful story playing with with a real Astroturf fi eld, bleachers, a egregiously out of place was the Patriots played felted wool against slick alligator. the romantic idea of mourning,” said scoreboard and a hi-def Jumbotron that helmet Hilfi ger held for his bow. As a There was no such digression at Browne after the show, noting that zeroed in on unsuspecting audience boy from Elmira, N.Y., he had the right night. Then, the fl oodgates opened the gurney girls had died of broken members just like they do at the games. colors, wrong team. — JESSICA IREDALE fully with gowns rich with various hearts. He also noted that the collection Hokey? Yes, but that’s the point, and if aquatic-derived splendors, from a (and his recent funereal men’s show) it didn’t make you smile, there are still Carolina Herrera: Water — one of sleek techno jersey with printed was not inspired by the Metropolitan plenty of cool, sleek, affected shows in humanity’s earliest fascinations and overskirt to a grand silk gazar “wave Museum of Art’s “Death Becomes Her” barren Chelsea warehouses to come. creative inspirations. Carolina Herrera gown,” its skirt a cascade of tiers. But exhibition — he didn’t even see it. “I’ve always been inspired by dove in for fall with a collection rich with some stiff-ish jacquard and weighty The bereaved wore their most American football,” said Hilfi ger. “I love allusions to the deep blue. “Everything embroideries broke the hypnotic allure, spectacular somber attire crafted from the uniforms, I love the game, I love the you see here is making waves,” she said and eventually even the beautiful fabric fabrics that were to die for. Browne energy.” Lest things get too literal, he during a preview. “Color and shape and undulation became dizzying, calling for has taken fabric development to an left the shoulder pads and tight pants in movement, the little bouncing skirts. a brief detour to calmer waters. obsessive level and it paid off. One sack the locker room and crossbred his sport Water has so many situations, no?” — BRIDGET FOLEY coat came in guipure lace with mink reference with “Love Story.” Nevermind Water has many situations — yes, but trim, another in organdy embroidered that Ryan O’Neal’s character was a Herrera homed in on a few, expressing Thom Browne: Thom Browne, in the mood for in Browne’s registered tartan with mink hockey player, this was Tommy’s world, ripples and waves via jacquards, prints, love, opened his fall show in the morgue: and astrakhan. A single-button sport coat a happy collegiate one at that, full of appliqués, hand-painted effects. Her Girls were laid out on gurneys in white was trimmed in a stiff fray of horsehair. pretty, popular girls in navy, camel, palette was beautiful, as if focused on shift dresses tied in the back like hospital Double-layered jackets in different lengths maroon and gold. They wore mohair the ocean’s shades refl ecting light as gowns while pairs of eerie but angelic worn over skirts and cropped trousers varsity sweaters and kick-pleat skirts; dusk settles in or dawn approaches, the boys in white, their hair shellacked, stood cut a silhouette of tidy melancholy from there were bomber jackets aplenty, some moodiness tinged with mystery. vigil. They doffed their ivory overcoats to Browne’s signature tailoring. But he in bright satin, one with a knit collar; he Mesmerizing pattern plays found their reveal tailored jackets embroidered with showed a fl are for femininity, too, with a offered peacoats in shearling and navy way into day on fl oaty dresses and, more wings, wheeled their pretty corpses away long double-collar dress with an alluring with a soft stripe trim. Jumpers with subtly, on dresses and suits with curved to heaven and the funeral began. sheer neckline and seams that traced velvet bodices and Empire waists were a details — an alligator wave sweeping The week’s second all-black discreet womanly curves. Victorian tasteful approximation of cheerleading across a pale wool shift; a blue lamb and collection could not have been more references abounded, but Browne updated outfi ts and football jerseys came fox jacket over a graphite wool skirt. different than the fi rst, Alexander with zippers and controlled shapes for reimagined in bright leathers bearing Herrera wisely held back on the overt Wang’s heavy metal-inspired polished mourning garb that was quite modern. WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 13 WWD.COM

more pared down than the austere calm of spring. The Although the translations were pretty literal, they Prabal clothes were beautiful but a bit barren, the whimsical worked because of the sporty and subversive attitude of Gurung details subdued. One of the most overtly imaginative the clothes. There was an obvious skate culture infl uence touches was the hand-embroidered handle of a small in the oversize fi t and layering, as well as a sartorial edge duffel bag. Van der Rohe described his buildings as “skin to the women’s utility jackets worn with midiskirts, and and bones,” but sometimes the fl avor is in the fat. — J.I. a belted shearling style paired with the pants silhouette of the season: the cropped fl are. And fi nally, boxy cargo Prabal Gurung: Prabal Gurung, mountain man? After pants for her and skinny printed pants for him solidifi ed divining his last two runway shows — two of his strongest the collection’s androgynous appeal. — MAYTE ALLENDE — from the famous range of his native Nepal, Gurung cast his eye on the Adirondacks, citing in show notes their Edun: Creative director Danielle Sherman went to Cap “majestic beauty, serene color palette,” etc. Upstate New Spartel in Morocco for Christmas, immersing herself York is also considerably closer to his current residence, in the culture and people of the region on a trip that geographically and emblematically. It yielded a suave took five months to plan. “What we wanted to do was collection that was distinctly American in attitude, with fuse Europe and North Africa — both traditional its sporty glamour and moments of minimalist homage to and artisanal concepts — and then mix it up in a another national treasure, the house of Calvin Klein. nontraditional way,” she said during a preview of her Solidifying an identity has been an ongoing challenge beautiful, eclectic fall collection. for Gurung. He didn’t fully achieve that here, but he That meant juxtaposing traditional English peacoats, continued with some of the good ideas of his past two men’s wear silhouettes (tuxedos, suiting) and fabrics like collections — mainly the ease-of-statement winter pieces glen plaid with Moroccan brocades custom-made for worn over something soft and light — reworking them the brand by artisans in Fes, leaving the seams raw to within the context of modern town-and-country sportswear. turn classic tailoring on its head. Circular buttons and The show opened with a beautiful dove gray wool duffel embellishments added a subtle Mod effect to coats, knits coat with a white fox trim over a wisp of an alabaster silk and the outseams of leather and Lurex trousers, as did crepe slip with a fold-over slit. There were more examples a series of color-blocked minidresses in patched leather of extravagant coats, such as incredible fur intarsias, and suede. Other dresses were treated with handwoven over delicate little slips. The sturdy hand-knit Nepalese tapestry and mosaic prints, some with lace overlays cashmere sweaters of last fall, cut slightly longer in the and fringe that swayed as the models walked. Footwear, back, came in Fair Isle and graphic black-and-white which the brand introduced for pre-fall, came in a few color blocks, paired with midlength asymmetric pleated varying styles, including low-heeled thigh-high boots that kilts. Done in soft shades of gray, ivory, black, navy and mimicked a second skin, fi nishing off the looks with both crimson, the palette was as elegant as the spare, graceful sex appeal and polish. — KRISTI GARCED lines of embroidered tank dresses and long-sleeve gowns made sensual with backs that plunged into a V. Of all the Yeohlee: What matters to Yeohlee Teng is often quite different aesthetic directions Gurung has auditioned in his career, from what other designers place top of mind. Sure, quality, the glamorous minimalist was a worthy pursuit. — J.I. workmanship, wearability and aesthetics are paramount. But she is as much about the science and mathematics of design Opening Ceremony: Fashion and photography collided at (in both interest and knowledge) as she is about appearances. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s fashion-presentation- And while the clothes are often cerebral, there are no tricks. slash-exhibition of photographs by Spike Jonze titled, In fact, some of her calculations are not even visible. “Please Use Your Best Judgment.” Take her “no waste” principle, where she chooses “We have a very close relationship with Spike. We’ve seven panels of a very pricey jacquard out of which she collaborated in the past and this was just our way of creates a four-piece group — skirt, jacket, pants and continuing that — his work is very inspiring to us and tunic — leaving only a few inches unused. you can see it on the clothes,” said Lim. Coats are always a highlight, and while there was only The duo had full access to the director’s archive of almost one in the designer’s 16-piece offering for fall, it was a two decades, an archive which mainly chronicles the rise beauty. Done in black and plum reversible double-faced and evolution of BMX racing, the skateboard subculture and angora fl eece, its volume was subtle, its front carefully early Sonic Youth tours. Fashionwise, prints were drawn crafted with chic crescent-shaped seams. from a wall collage on display in the gallery and used in Yeohlee’s clothes are never in your face, nor are they zip-up jackets and men’s trenches. Photographs were also about anyone else’s fashion. What they represent is fashion printed onto T-shirts for the guys, while a Kodak (sponsor of by a designer and for a customer with infi nite confi dence. the printing) motif adorned girls’ Ts. — BOBBI QUEEN

Opening Edun Yeohlee Ceremony

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

Putting romance within a morbid context is in line with Browne’s perverse vision. It suited him and was not without its whimsical moments. Each model wore a theatrically tasteful veiled hat by Stephen Jones and some carried bags shaped like whales. “It’s an iconic, American, preppy reference,” Browne explained. “It was my way of telling people not to take it too seriously.” — J.I.

The Row: “I think the space really says it all,” said Mary-Kate Olsen, and little else, preferring to let The Row’s show venue, the Seagram Building, and the clear-sky view from an empty space on its 35th floor, do the talking. Mies van der Rohe would have approved. Aesthetically the collection was as succinct as the architect’s famous design philosophy — less is more, God is in the details and so forth. There was no decorative fat to trim on these clothes, extreme in their luxurious simplicity and Zen- like expression of corporate power. Clean, unstructured jackets and plain black blazers and trousers registered purpose and practicality; the oversize gray ribbed sweaters and loose white tailored pants were elegantly comfortable. An Eastern infl uence pervaded an angular caramel crocodile kimono top and ivory silk wrap robe. Worn over easy trousers with suede slide slippers, many of the looks approximated a uniform fi t for a day at a high-end spa castle. Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen have become

increasingly purist, with this collection even MITRA ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE; HILFIGER AND BROWNE BY PHOTO BY HERRERA 14 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015

WWD MILAN PREVIEW Natasa Cagalj PORTS 1961 Mario Dice in her studio. “I would love Ports 1961 to be- with one of come the go-to brand for a cer- his graphic tain item — the white shirt, for styes. Ones toWatch example. We need to establish the core products first and then Several brands are taking the next step we can build around that,” said at the Milan women’s ready-to-wear Natasa Cagalj, talking about collections. By Alessandra Turra her goals as creative director of women’s wear under the Ports 1961 label. Tapped last December to Lorenzo Serafini and succeed Fiona Cibani, London- a look for Philosophy. based Cagalj was previously Alber Elbaz’s assistant designer at Lanvin and then was at the helm of Stella McCartney’s de- sign team until 2012. “When I started at Ports 1961, I explored the history of the company and how it all started. I was inspired by the simple vision of its founder [Luke Tanabe], who wanted to create a perfect white shirt for his wife in 1961,” she explained. “This became my starting point. We started to play around with MARIO DICE that idea, and we began to build a wardrobe around the white shirt — some- Mario Dice never attended a fashion thing accessible, easy and that can be worn by anyone.” school, but at age 14 he was already Aiming to deliver elegant yet functional pieces for “the new Ports 1961 sending sketches to fashion hous- woman,” Cagalj said she worked closely with Italian mills and factories, hon- es asking for a job. Trussardi was ing the fit to make a complete wardrobe of items, including coats, jackets and among the recipients recognizing tal- trousers, using high-end fabrics. In addition, some special pieces, like tops ent in his work, and the effort would and dresses, are handmade in the designer’s studio in London. pay off in later years. “I feel like I have the creative freedom of when I first started at college but But before finding his way in the with experience and knowledge gained from working within the industry,” Italian fashion industry, 26 years ago Cagalj said. “Rather than hide them, I would like to capture all the mistakes Dice moved to New York, where he that happen in the process and not polish it too much. Incorporating imper- worked as a freelancer with Kevin fection, but still keeping an element of luxury.” Carrigan at CK Calvin Klein and with According to the designer, the new collection, which will be unveiled dur- Donna Karan at DKNY. ing a presentation at the Ports 1961 showroom on Milan’s central Via Amedei, After what he called “a very com- will feature pieces that look simple at first, but reveal surprising elements mercial experience, focused on and embellishments upon closer inspection. sales and merchandising,” in 2000, For example, a clean white shirt wraps the body and fastens at the back; Dice went back to Italy, where he tailored pieces show jacquard inserts, and bias-cut dresses feature a combi- joined Sorelle Fontana as a couture nation of fil coupé fabrics. designer. Then he spent three years PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI at Gattinoni, prior to being tapped Lorenzo Serafini is gearing up to make his runway debut by Trussardi, where he worked for with Philosophy on Feb. 27 at Milan’s Palazzo delle Stelline. PAULA CADEMARTORI seven years on the main line, as “My goal is to inject a glamorous touch into Paula Cademartori “Hyper-feminine, colorful, well as on the Tru Trussardi and Philosophy’s very feminine and romantic DNA,” said and her new shoes. sensual.” This is how Paula Trussardi Jeans ranges. Serafini during a preview in his studio at the Milanese Cademartori described her Although six years ago Dice de- headquarters of Aeffe, the brand’s parent. first footwear range to be un- cided to launch his namesake line, Serafini was appointed creative director in October and veiled with a presentation on he continues to design for other la- succeeded Natalie Ratabesi following Alberta Ferretti’s deci- Feb. 27 at the brand’s Milan bels, including Zuhair Murad, David sion in 2012 to delegate the entire direction of Philosophy to headquarters. Koma and Mugler. another designer, differentiating it from her signature collec- The Brazilian designer, who “This season, we decided to do a tion. Serafini cut his teeth at Roberto Cavalli before joining made a name for herself in the real launch,” said Dice, who will un- Dolce & Gabbana, where most recently he held the post of fashion industry with her luxu- veil his women’s fall collection with a lead women’s wear designer. rious, colorful, eye-catching runway show on March 1. Characterizing the collection he will present during bags launched in 2010, created Day dresses retail from $396 to Milan Fashion Week as “not seasonal, but aimed at identify- a capsule of six styles developed $679; cashmere coats are $736, while ing a new style, a new course,” the designer said he tried to in different color combinations. evening gowns range between $792 create a complete wardrobe, where femininity and comfort “I originally moved to Italy to $2,378. play a key role. to design shoes — this is a new The designer, who has a taste for Revolving around the idea of “glamorous innocence,” challenge” she said. “I’m start- sensual silhouettes and lightweight the collection is focused on fluid silhouettes worked in ing with a capsule collection, fabrics, was inspired by the geomet- lightweight fabrics, “allowing women to live into the but the goal is to develop a ric yet feminine shapes of Claude clothes,” Serafini said. whole line and transform the Montana’s spring 1991 show, as well Short and ankle-length dresses come in ruffled silk Paula Cademartori label into a as by the Manhattan skyline. He georgette, silk sable, organza and macramé. The palette in- complete accessories brand.” evokes the skyline in the graphic cludes white, black, light blue and jade used for the micro Reflecting the same high- black-and-white patterns appear- prints that take center stage in the lineup. quality materials and craftsmanship of the bags, Cademartori’s shoes are ing on a range of pieces, including Serafini also developed a range of high-waisted skirts; manufactured in workshops located in Italy’s Riviera del Brenta footwear a body-conscious jersey maxidress stretch wool or printed cotton pants with sharp silhouettes, district. They will retail between $685 and $799. with a deep V-neck and a sexy front as well as a wide offering of knitted pieces, embellished “These are fashionable shoes, targeting confident women who look at ac- slit. Other evening designs, most of with ruches, frills and cable stitches. cessories to express their own style,” said the designer. them with the focus on the waist, in- In addition, the designer realized shaved Mongolian For the initial season, Cademartori focused on high heels. The range in- clude maxi frocks with 3-D tulle and coats and wool jacquard outerwear pieces showing “silhou- cludes a sexy lace-up boot with cutout details; a pump decorated with in- lace intarsia, or embellishments with ettes inspired by the early Eighties.” tarsia stars on the heel, as well as a sandal realized in a range of materials, ponyskin flocked on chiffon. Retail prices range between $300 to $800 for shirts and including suede in bright tones, lizard, glossy calfskin and patent leather. Jackets and coats mix cashmere skirts; knitwear is $350 to $800, and dresses between $495 The shoe range will be presented next to the designer’s latest bags, and leather with laser-cut details, and $1,500. which are sold in 170 high-end stores around the world, including 10 and subtly squared shoulders. The Philosophy collections are sold in multibrand stores Corso Como in Milan; Selfridges and Harvey Nichols in London, as well collection is done primarily in a worldwide, including Barneys New York in the U.S., as Bloomingdale’s in Boston and Opening Ceremony in New York and Los white and black palette, sometimes Harvey Nichols in London, Bosco di Ciliegi in Moscow Angeles. Paula Cademartori bags are also available online at Net-a-porter combined with a graphic approach, and Hankyu in Osaka. and Moda Operandi. shot with pops of red.

VIVETTA ton pants worked in the same multicol- For fall, Ponti teamed with eye- Vivetta Ponti Vivetta Ponti, who launched her name- ored print. This is also embroidered on wear label Spektre to launch two sun- sake label in 2008, turned to Marianne the sleeves and front of Ponti’s signature glasses styles available in 10 color Faithfull circa 1978 for inspiration for cotton shirts. combinations. fall. Vivetta is the latest designer to show In keeping with her feminine ap- The apparel collection, positioned in as a guest at Giorgio Armani’s theater, proach, Ponti delivered flared skirts and the contemporary segment, retails from unveiling her collection on Feb. 28. jackets with faux fur collars in striped about $114 for cotton collars to $297 The designer said she translated wool bonded with a technical fabric, for embroidered shirts, while knitwear the main inspiration into a range of along with monochromatic dresses in is between $570 and $685. Dresses are elements. They include colorful pat- stretch double crepe, embellished with about $340 to $1,700. terns with an oriental psychedelic macramé collars. The label is sold in about 85 stores taste, as well as feminine silhouettes of Knitwear also plays a key role in the around the world, including Colette Faithfull’s profile. lineup, ranging from sportier looks with in Paris; 10 Corso Como in Milan, For example, these elements are striped patterns to evening pieces, includ- Shanghai and Beijing; Antonia in Milan; mixed on a cotton poplin top matched ing sweaters embroidered with images of Nordstrom in the U.S., and online at

with a Neoprene coat and cropped cot- Buddha sculptures, tigers and elephants. Moda Operandi and Net-a-porter. PANSINI PAOLA PHOTOS BY AND VIVETTA PHILOSOPHY DICE, CADEMARTORI,

16 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015

textiles Seventies prints popped at Miroglio.

High-Low Drift Seen at PV, Texworld

the company develops “three dif- The lace-maker’s two-tone fl o- the technical nature of the fab- for up to 80 percent of their busi- By PAULINA SZMYDKE ferent collections a year to serve ral micro motif with a mock-sol- rics. She noted that she would ness, are having to be increasingly and ALEX WYNNE different moments.” id effect and a novel technique spend more time at the Maison proactive in scouting customers in “Buyers are increasingly combining embroidery with lace d’Exceptions, an annual section non-euro markets. PARIS — There’s a distinc- looking for higher qualities, and bands, was an example of inno- of PV that highlights craftsman- “We are seeking out dollar- tive divide developing in the my guess is the market will be vation creating novelty. ship from around the globe. based markets,” said Yüksel textile market. even more divided in the future: Christian Wijnants, who was “This is a good place when Temel, Italian export This rift was evident at the cheap functional garments on spotted at Halley Stevensons, you are looking for new manager for Mem major fabric and sourcing fairs one end, high-level development said he felt the trend was toward techniques,” she said. “It’s Tencel at Tekstil, which does Première Vision and Texworld on the other,” Breschi said. rougher textures, including silk sometimes a challenge to Mozartex. 60 percent of its that ended their four-day runs on Italian print specialist Ratti and linen, and lauded the Scottish translate them into wear- business in Europe. Thursday. Exhibitors were split Uomo had already split its col- company for its heavy, waxed able pieces, but I “Profit margins between serving a mostly price- lection and its team in two. “We coat fabrics. The brand’s director, love that.” of producers have driven mainstream market and are very strong on the high-end, Martin Wigglesworth, said, “The Eurojersey was radically reduced.” an upper segment that is focused tailored side; now we need to prospects are good because we pushing the envelope with a Designers attending on newness and creativity, creat- develop the same strength in are well tuned into the fashion new collaboration with the show said suppliers ing a void in the range between. fashion design stu- had been successful in At Première Vision, which dents from Milan’s developing fabrics registered a 4 percent drop in Politecnico, who that offer premium- visitor numbers mostly due to the Key Trends at PV translated the look fi nishes at lower absence of Russian buyers versus Première Vision again collection of stretch denim company’s range price points. a year ago, fashion designers said provided strong trend direction in collaboration with Asahi of wrinkle-free “You can’t feel the majority of exhibitors played in fabrics. Among the highlights Kasei’s Roica yarn, made fabrics into the new trends it safe, offering “a best-of ” their for spring 2016 were: from recycled material. functional cloth- here,” said Bershka archive materials, merely trans- ing, including men’s knitwear de- lating them in different colors. ■ LOTS OF LINEN: Cotton ■ PRINTS AND COLORS: a squared cape signer Domenico “The average quality this and linen blends with a Straight off the catwalks, that folded into Vitullo, who was season is not extraordinary,” crinkled look, in jacquard or the Seventies revival had a a pocket. An Ocean shopping mainly said Alessandro Sartori, artistic seersucker or simply boasting run at Miroglio, with vintage The compa- Gate sweater. for staples. “You director of Berluti, who lauded an extra-soft touch were fl oral and geometric prints ny’s senior sales have to keep your Solbiati for its linen blends, trading high at Solbiati. At as buyers’ favorites. White- manager, Matteo eyes open.” Beste for outerwear fabrics and Lyria, linen was coffee-dyed on-white prints using various Cecchi, said Embellished Kanda for its innovative silk. “On for additional energy. pigments created deep sales were up “more fabrics like embroi- the other hand, I see creativity I 3-D effects at Ratti Uomo, than 10 percent” in 2014 thanks deries and lace, geometric and have never seen before.” ■ ECO: While many companies suitable for activewear and to high demand from the ready- Aztec-patterned jacquards and Sartori said this was “a very were eager to reduce their eveningwear, while Halley to-wear and sportswear markets, new crêpes were among standout good season for vegetable fi bers, ecological footprint in textile Stevensons went beyond while “a boom” in the North pieces, designers said. light fabrics and fresh sum- manufacturing, Lanifi cio traditional hues on heavy American market has helped the “We are looking for [things] mer colors,” but acknowledged Europa launched ES, a waxed cotton. company to secure “some im- at a cheaper price that look pre- that it was getting increasingly portant orders and unexpected mium,” said Niamh Ryder, se- demanding picking the cher- [large] re-orders of our Sensitive nior designer for Styletex, which ries. “Before, we used to see 50 the mainstream arena which scene,” he said, pointing to its new fabrics range.” counts Topshop, Oasis and textile makers. Today, we work is more price-driven,” said the premium cloth, an ultrastrong fab- At Texworld, exhibitors were Carrefour among its customers. with just a few. After the show firm’s head designer, Mario ric spun from nettle yarn suitable feeling the impact of currency “We’re doing things we wouldn’t we will go to Italy, rent a car, see Ratti, seeing growth potential for apparel and accessories. fl uctuations. With the majority have before, [but] changing the one after the other and develop on both ends of the spectrum. Actor John Malkovich, who of exhibiting companies hail- composition to get the price.” exclusive fabrics with them.” Ratti noted that the rise of pre- was scouting textiles for a new ing from outside the European “My client base has gone slight- Designer Pierre Mahéo of collections in men’s wear gave fashion undertaking, said he Union — 295 of the total 626 ex- ly cheaper, focusing on less quality Offi cine Generale lamented the sales a 15 percent boost, but that didn’t bother looking at the hibitors were from China and 86 and more quantity,” said Jeff Isbitt, industry’s inability to adapt to the company was reinvesting its trends. “I’m always from Turkey — many were feel- U.K.-based agent for Turkish mill the realpolitik of fashion. money into an eco-friendly future. working with the ing the effect of buy- Joyteks. “I do a lot with Topshop “We are going through crucial “If you want to deal with big same people,” ing yarns in dollars and their buying in price points changes here,” Mahéo said. “The groups like Kering or LVMH, you Malkovich said. FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE and selling their have become keener.” summer collections arrive in need to guarantee certain as- “I’m starting fabrics in euros to Helena Lau, director of re- stores when it’s zero degrees, and pects of production, from water again with a WWD.com/eye. European custom- search and development for here it’s all about cotton and linen quality to ethical con- ers. Visitor numbers Marchesa, said the currency sit- for summer. That can’t be right. duct,” he said. at Texworld and uation had less of an impact on Textile makers still think men will Miroglio said Apparel Sourcing her buying at Texworld than it dress in white linen suits for sum- it spent 50 mil- increased 1 percent had at Première Vision, where mer, when our most important cat- lion euros, or Paisley compared with February buying European fabrics cur- egory are trans-seasonal pieces, $57 million at printed silk 2014 to 13,639. rently represents a signifi cant something between a blazer and a current ex- Lace made at Mert Ipek Mozart Tseng, presi- advantage. “For a gown, it could jacket, but that is functional. And change, in the contemporary dent of Mozartex, China’s be 15 or 20 meters of fabric, so I don’t see much novelty in this last three years by Sophie largest supplier of fab- the impact is huge,” she said. area. This pushes us to work more on sustainable Hallette. rics made with Lenzing’s At Texworld, she discovered on the shapes for next season and technology and Tencel fiber, said the Lebanese embroiderer Kaskas, use double-face fabrics.” innovation, includ- company had seen sales to which she said stood out for its de- At Lyria, which caters to the ing a clean printing Europe, China and Japan velopment capabilities and small needs of fashion’s higher end, machine that saves 30 drop last year and that quantities. At the company’s stand, including Haider Ackermann, percent CO2 and energy, Ancestral 2015 would be a tough year, purchasing manager Omar Kaskas Lanvin and Paul Smith, sales and uses half as much print techniques notably in Europe, which said he was reaching out to new were up 25 percent. water, while French lace impressed at represents 35 percent of the markets beyond the Middle East “We are investing 2 million specialist Sophie Hallette Hirose Dyeworks. company’s sales. “The currency because unrest and geopolitical euros a year into new fabrics — divulged it has been invest- new partner is too weak,” he said. “[European instability had decreased demand that’s the secret,” said the com- ing between 1.5 million and for spring 2016,” customers’] buying power may from its core customer base. pany’s designer, Riccardo Bruni, 2 million euros, or $1.7 mil- adding that the be 10 percent down,” adding New exhibitors included who cited cotton and silk mixes lion to $2.3 million, each year to new brand would that with costs rising in China Mumbai-based Kontemporary with a papery hand, and gypsy- improve its ecological footprint run under his own for labor, energy and real estate Kraft, which showed hand-made chic patterns as bestsellers. and update its equipment to to- name and be based in Paris. amid stringent new environmen- Indian embroideries in quirky Luca Breschi, executive vice day’s standards. Yiqing Yin said she was tal regulations, the fi rm is focus- designs, and Malaysian firm president of Olmetex, which saw “And we plan to keep pleased with the color proposi- ing on effi ciency to cut costs and Radzuan Radziwill, with its con- its outerwear fabrics, such as wa- that level in the next years,” tions — deep indigo hues, lumi- avoid raising prices. temporary interpretation of tradi- ter-repellent silk and double-face said Romain Lescroart, the nous yellow, pink and orange Suppliers from Turkey, many tional Malay prints that attracted nylon, in much demand, noted fi rm’s chairman. — but was disappointed with of which rely on European brands brands including Barbara Bui. WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 17 WWD.COM

OVS will partly or entirely use December period, sales in Italy OVS Readies for $620.4 Million IPO the proceeds from the IPO to re- rose 6.3 percent. The OVS group imburse the debt derived from counts 896 stores, of which 641 with Costume National, Aspesi division to be expanded in 2015 a previous financing contract are OVS units, in addition to By LUISA ZARGANI and Matthew Williamson, who and boosted its offer for teens. for a total of around 335 million 133 stores outside Italy. “All the acted as “a tutor of designers,” The share price for the OVS euros, or $381.3 million, accord- money from the IPO remains MILAN — Italian retailer OVS Beraldo said. The Sartorialist’s road show has been set at be- ing to the prospectus distributed within the group in exchange SpA will make its debut on Scott Schuman was tapped to tween a nonbinding minimum on Monday. “If this amount — at of a dilution of the controlling the Italian Stock Exchange on produce a number of ad cam- of 4 euros, or $4.53 at current least — will not be reached with shareholder,” Beraldo said. March 2 — the first public list- paigns. Last year, OVS bolstered exchange rate, and a binding the IPO, there will be no trading,” In the fiscal year closed Jan. 31, ing in the country’s fashion its design team with two new maximum price of 5.40 euros, or the company said. The remaining 2014, OVS sales totaled 1.13 billion industry since Moncler’s in hires, Caterina Salvador and $6.12. This is equal to an indica- funds will be directed “to finance euros, or $1.28 billion, and earn- December 2013. Marco Mazzorana, overseeing tive price range of the company’s the ordinary operative manage- ings before interest, taxes, depre- OVS is estimating it will raise women’s and men’s wear, respec- economic capital that is expect- ment of activities.” The group was ciation and amortization were 132 545 million euros, or $620.4 mil- tively. Both come from luxury ed to be between a nonbinding delisted in 2011, and the debt was million euros, or $150.2 million. lion at current exchange, float- backgrounds and are working minimum of 560 million euros, contracted with Gruppo Coin. OVS’ debt at the end of ing 45.4 percent of shares, or 101 to create collections that are or $635.2 million, and a binding Beraldo repeatedly empha- October totaled 707.2 million million shares, with a market fashion-forward and well-made, maximum of 756 million euros, or sized that OVS is not going pub- euros, or $805 million. In the capitalization of up to 1.22 bil- but remain within an affordable $857.5 million. The road show will lic to repay debt, but to expand first nine months of 2014, OVS lion euros, or $1.38 billion. OVS price range. “We have doubled go through London, Frankfurt, its business in Italy. opened 31 direct stores and 97 is controlled by Gruppo Coin customers aged below 24 in the Boston and New York and end on While the prospectus also franchised units. Capital expen- SpA, which is owned by private past three years,” noted Beraldo. Feb. 24, when the final price per cites this as a risk factor, it does ditures in 2014 totaled around 55 equity firm BC Partners. In ad- Last year, OVS added a fitness share will be revealed. note that in the November to million euros, or $62.6 million. dition, Gruppo Coin has granted the joint global coordinators a green-shoe option to purchase up to 11 million additional ordinary shares, or about 11 percent of the ordinary shares in the offering, which can be exercised within 30 days from the first day of trading. If fully exercised, shares floated will represent 49.3 percent of the group’s share capital. The OVS group also owns the Upim mass- market store chain, comprising 255 units nationally. “With the IPO, we will strengthen our balance sheet to open new stores,” said chief ex- ecutive officer Stefano Beraldo on the sidelines of the presenta- tion of the offer on Monday, held at the Bourse. “OVS is the first re- tailer in Italy, with a market share of 5.17 percent, twice as much as Inditex and three times as much as H&M, but Italy is a fragmented market, and those competitors have a 7 to 8 percent penetration in the markets in their own coun- tries, so we have room to grow.” The IPO of OVS was expected to take place by the end of 2014, but in November, citing market volatility, the group postponed the listing to the first half of 2015. Beraldo contended that the “clouds” hovering over the markets at the end of last year have lifted. He cited the quanti- tative easing announced by the European Central Bank’s presi- dent Mario Draghi last month; falling oil prices that will benefit Italy; a stronger American dollar and a weaker euro, which “fa- EPSON QUALITY AND RELIABILITY. cilitates exports; the recent “Jobs Act” labor reform initiated by NOW IN A DYE SUBLIMATION PRINTER. Prime Minister Matteo Renzi, and the elimination of the labor com- The Epson name has long stood for the very highest standards of print ponent of the IRAP regional busi- performance, quality and reliability. Now we’re putting our expertise ness tax in the 2015 budget, which into an exciting new suite of garment printers. Designed exclusively lightens the burden on firms. “The scenario in Italy invites for dye sublimation transfer printing with specially formulated Epson investments now, it is one of re- inks, the all-new SureColor® F-Series delivers superior print quality covery,” claimed Beraldo. “On along with the world-class service you’ve come to expect from Epson. paper, it’s an IPO that makes a lot of sense, investing on a clear The new Epson SureColor F-Series. Better performance. More profit. idea and a clear growth project.” To learn more, visit proimaging.epson.com During the presentation, Beraldo said more than 200 new store locations have already been identified, adding that OVS has the “potential to more than dou- ble its current market share.” OVS has been positioning it- self as a trendier fast-fashion destination, focusing on a more stylish and higher-quality line- up. “We have always invested in Epson SureColor F6070 - 44" Epson SureColor F7170 - 64" the product,” said Beraldo, who $8,495* $19,995* joined parent company Gruppo Coin almost 10 years ago and was 0653EHIRUHUHEDWHV3OHDVHFKHFNZLWKDQ(SVRQ3URIHVVLRQDO,PDJLQJ$XWKRUL]HG5HVHOOHUIRUDFWXDOSULFHDVGHDOHUSULFHV instrumental in the turnaround PD\YDU\(3621DQG6XUH&RORUDUHUHJLVWHUHGWUDGHPDUNVDQG(3621([FHHG

Carmelo Twin Shadow, Maxwell Osborne, Anthony in Prabal Gurung and Dao-Yi Chow. Ermenegildo Zegna.

Diane von Furstenberg with Ice, Ice, Baby Caroline Vreeland in her design.

SUNDAY WAS SUPPOSED to be a marathon with a brave game face for a party he was Alexa Chung, Helena Christensen and night of party hopping. Even when the throwing with Dom Pérignon. He was still Ali Hewson, all in Edun. eye forecast called for three-degree temperatures nursing a season-threatening injured knee in New York City, the prevailing mood earlier and had just lost in his own arena to the in the day was, “So what? There’s no crying young guns in the Western conference like in baseball.” Fashion Week was in full swing Russell Westbrook and Kevin Durant, 163 to 158. on day four and Public School, Diane von “It was fun. There are no hard feelings,” he Furstenberg, Edun and Opening Ceremony said, occasionally rubbing his knee. Shanina all planned post-show bashes. Shaik, Hannah Bronfman, Grace Mahary, Jasmine The bigger choice to be made was Tookes, the singer Maya Vik, Carly Cushnie and between attending parties or the NBA All- Michelle Ochs and other pretty young things — Star Game at Madison Square Garden. The plus Avedon again — were among those who decision for James Murphy was clear. shrugged off the weather. Anthony was just “You can’t TiVo a party,” he said, sitting relieved a long week that included a string of front row at Public School that afternoon, promotional events was fi nally over. when it was, well, almost pleasant outside. “All-Star Weekend is always during Then the temperatures dropped and fashion week but in a different city, so for then dropped some more, casting a freeze us to capitalize on fashion week being here over the party circuit. Save for a few in New York, it will never happen like this exceptions — there was Bethann Hardison again,” he said. and Fran Lebowitz yukking it up at Diane Down in the Lower East Side, Jake von Furstenberg’s annual post-show Gyllenhaal was waiting for his car. “God dinner and then Michael Stipe and Patti damn, it’s cold,” he shivered. His date, a Hannah Bronfman at Smith in a mind meld at Edun — it leggy brunette, chattered her teeth. They the Public School and seemed only the whippersnappers were outside — inexplicably, as the lobby Prabal Gurung party. bothered to make the rounds in was a perfectly fi ne place to wait — Happy the cold. Even Kesha, who sat front Endings, the site of the Opening Ceremony row at von Furstenberg, stayed after party. “F--k, f--k,” he said, trading up home. The designer’s studio in the expletives after a gust of biting wind. He Meatpacking District was instead was the fi rst to bow out of the romp. Inside, brimming with the very young, very in a roped-off booth, Humberto Leon and Spike ambitious competitors in her reality Jonze curled up to Santigold. “Nine years ago, show, “House of DVF,” which at a Christmas party with Jason Schwartzman,” Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs started fi lming its second season Leon recalled of fi rst meeting Jonze. “He this past week, and the likes of was wearing one of our jackets and I was Chelsea Leyland, Caroline Vreeland and like, ‘Hey! That’s Opening Ceremony!’” Sofi a Sanchez Barrenechea. At the Diamond Horseshoe in Midtown, “We have a history with the Prabal Gurung, fresh off his show earlier in Chelsea weather here at Edun,” said Ali the night, walked in a little after the Public Leyland in Hewson. “We’ve had the worst heat School designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Diane von waves, we’ve now had, I think, Chow. Showing on the same day for the fi rst Furstenberg. two world-record freezing days time, they decided to combine forces for a and we’ve even had a mini tornado joint event that drew all the party girls — land quite close to us.” And still, the Bronfman, Mahary, Cleo Wade and Mia Moretti. show goes on and so did the dinner she The singer Zoe Silverman, a 25-year-old who was hosting for her label at Renwick performed a few songs as part of the duo Gallery, where she was joined by Alexa ASTR, had just come from the Opening Chung, Helena Christensen, Hanneli Mustaparta Ceremony party. Why would she ever go out in and Michael Avedon. this arctic weather? Shanina Over at the Gilded Lily on the West “Anything for fa-shion,” she said. Sheik Side, a defeated and injured Carmelo — ERIK MAZA, ALLY BETKER Anthony hobbled in around midnight AND TAYLOR HARRIS

Virgil Abloh at the Humberto Leon, Jasmine Public School and Spike Jonze and Tookes Prabal Gurung party. Santigold.

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye. NBA PHOTOS BY LEXIE MORELAND; PUBLIC SCHOOL BY STEVE EICHNER; LEXIE MORELAND; PUBLIC SCHOOL BY NBA PHOTOS BY SCOTT RUDD; JENNA GREENE; EDUN BY OPENING CEREMONY BY NEIL RASMUS/BFANYC.COM VON FURSTENBERG BY WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 19 WWD.COM

with Chloë Sevigny, who was previously MEMO PAD featured in an episode of i-D’s series FASHION SCOOPS “Under the Sheets with Lily McMenamy.” Other upcoming series from i-D MIU MIU TELLS ITS LATEST TALE: The ninth include “Obsessed!,” which was MARKING THE DATE: Giorgio Armani is the exhibition “Prince of Dreams: The installment of the collaborative film produced with Vice’s music channel launching a new bag that also marks the Medici’s Joseph Tapestries by Pontormo project Miu Miu Tales features a short Noisey. The series will profile people 40th anniversary of his brand, and for the and Bronzino” in Florence and presented by Italian director and screenwriter Alice with “obsessive sartorial or music- first time the accessory will be unveiled at the project in Rome on Monday. “We Rohrwacher called “De Djess.” Rohrwacher’s related collections,” the company said. two luxury retailers, Antonia in Milan on are honored that the institutions have second feature film “The Wonders” won On the editorial side, i-D’s U.S. team March 1, and L’Eclaireur in Paris on March found in Gucci the partner that can the Cannes Film Festival’s 2014 Grand is planning to feature a photo series 5, during each city’s respective fashion virtually accompany the 20 tapestries Prix. “De Djess” will be screened in New shot by Jerome Corpuz, which will depict week. The top-handle bag, called Le Sac on a journey that, coinciding with Expo York on Wednesday before going live on images and interviews with 10 New York 11, will be available in limited editions for 2015, will bring them to be one of the most miumiu.com on Thursday. designers to watch later this month. It each store. The bag comes in three sizes noble testaments of Italian modernity,” — JESSICA IREDALE will also release a photo series dubbed — small, medium and large — in leathers said Marco Bizzarri, president and chief “My Crew” that depicts the close friends including crocodile skin, tanned leather executive officer of Gucci. The show will VICE EXPLORES A NEW ID: of young photographers, as and calfskin, in different colors and with reunite 20 tapestries from the 16th century British fashion magazine i-D well as build out its street precious metal fittings and covered rivets commissioned by Cosimo I de’ Medici is expanding its team in New style documentary series at the two handles’ closure. Armani has from artists Jacopo Pontormo and Agnolo York, WWD has learned. Vice “Straight Ups” to include U.S. chosen the number 11 for its symbolic Bronzino that depict the history of biblical Media, which bought i-D in street fashion from Detroit to value: The double-digit number is the patriarch Joseph (Giuseppe Ebreo). Until December 2012, confirmed the Brooklyn’s Bedford-Stuyvesant day of his birth as well as the number of now, the tapestries were displayed partly news, and added that the glossy neighborhood. the building that houses the company’s at the Palazzo del Quirinale in Rome, the will grow its video and editorial Sources told WWD that headquarters in Milan. — LUISA ZARGANI official residence of the president of the teams in New York with more the expansion is part of a Italian Republic, and partly at the Palazzo than 10 hires in 2015. It will push for Vice to reach a MAKING THE ROUNDS: Chrissy Teigen touched Vecchio town hall in Florence. also open offices in Asia. broader audience, which down in New York on Monday for her The project extends the involvement of “Asia offers new includes women — and a new first show of fashion week, Donna Karan, Gucci in the tapestries since the company opportunities like never I-D’s January cover crop of advertisers. where she was joined in the front row by in June unveiled the refurbishment of 10 before: these markets have featuring Rihanna. But back to women: last old friends of the label, Susan Sarandon and of the tapestries, using proceeds from the proved themselves as hotbeds for week, Vice tapped Ellis Jones Bernadette Peters. The Sports Illustrated Gucci Museo. Since opening in September emerging street style and like so many as its namesake magazine’s first female cover girl had just returned from a trip. “My 2011, half of the proceeds from the sale of our other international offices which editor in chief in its 20-year history. husband took me on a romantic getaway,” of museum tickets are donated to a fund have opened in the last year — including Earlier this year, the Brooklyn-based firm she said, referring to John Legend, who lately dedicated to restoring important art works Germany, Spain and Australia — we will hired former White House deputy chief of has a lot to celebrate with his from Florence. work alongside local teams to marry i-D’s staff Alyssa Mastromonaco as chief operating Academy Award nomination FOR MORE The tapestries, which stretch international offering with local content,” officer, a move that may signify a bigger for a song he wrote with SCOOPS, SEE almost 263 feet, are to travel editor in chief Holly Shackleton told WWD, evolution for the media company, which, Common for the film “Selma.” from Palazzo del Quirinale to adding that in New York the aim is to hire in September, secured another round of The duo just performed WWD.com. the Universal Expo in Milan at people in both editorial and video. financing to the tune of $500 million from “Glory” at the Grammys, so the Royal Palace in May and The latter is central to i-D’s push minority investors. According to insiders, they have other concerns on then on to Palazzo Vecchio in and is a specialty of its parent company. that infusion of cash, which puts the their minds for the Oscars. their original home — the Sala de’ According to a Vice spokesman, i-D company’s valuation at more than $2.5 “They know what they’re doing by now. Dugento, until January 2016. — L.Z. will launch a video series in the U.S., billion, will likely translate to a bigger The performance is the easiest part. I featuring some familiar collaborators. investment in television, podcasts and think dealing with, ‘Are we gonna win this BROCK’S 3-2-1: Three seasons into their For example, i-D said it is working staff for its various verticals such as news. Oscar?’ is harder.” Brock collection, designers Laura Vassar and on “A Guide to Being a New Yorker” — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD The last time Legend won an award, Kris Brock managed their first presentation at the Golden Globes, Teigen became a Monday, just two months after the arrival viral sensation after a camera caught her of their son Charlie. Everything went off in a rather emotional state when he took without a hitch for the husband-and-wife the stage. Has she learned to control her team who had 50-plus media types ready crying face? and waiting at the stroke of three at The “I don’t even know how to. I know Standard. Even the icy Hudson River people will be watching, which is the worst and Pier 54’s jagged, decaying pilings part. I never even knew I could make such that could be seen out the window in the a horrible face,” she said. distance seemed to enhance their dark After she takes in Badgley Mischka on and metallic column dresses. Their real Tuesday, she goes to Miami for the South backdrop — a lavender-gray painted one Beach Wine & Food Festival. — was the same shade that can be found “I go from fashion week to judging in the kitchen of Vassar’s mother Caroline’s hamburgers,” she said. Then next Sunday, house. A constant source of inspiration, it’s the Oscars. “My fitting is on Saturday. Vassar said of her mom, “Her passion is We’re really getting ballsy.” — ERIK MAZA interior design but she has always had an impeccable fashion sense.” GAME DAY: Tommy Hilfiger went big on a Should the Brocks return to The football theme at his show Monday Standard next season, the backdrop may morning at the Park Avenue Armory, look noticeably different. The soon-to- complete with Astroturf, a Jumbotron be-demolished Pier 54 will make way video screen, scoreboard and bleachers. for Diane von Furstenberg’s and Barry Diller’s Avery Baker, chief marketing officer of $130 million emerald-green floating Hilfiger, said the football decor was park and performance space. created by set designer Randall Peacock. The — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG helmets on display had the name of each model and there were even football cards, TAKING IT SLOW: After the last season of REACH THE with nicknames for the models, such as “How I Met Your Mother” wrapped, actress Julia Hafstrom (“Stormin’ J”) , Jourdan Dunn Cobie Smulders packed her bags, moved (“Gettin’ it Done,”) and Malaika Firth (“Fever to New York and is now getting into the FASHION INDUSTRY’S Pitch”). Tommy Hilfiger’s card naturally fashion game. “It’s my first New York showed him as the quarterback. Fashion Week, so I’m kind of easing into it,” Baker, who declined to reveal the cost of she said. “I started modeling when I was TOP TALENT the set, said it took about four to five days 12 and then I stopped when I was 18. Being to set it up. That wasn’t the only special an actress, you sort of know a bit about element, though: The varsity-inspired faux- fashion just from red-carpet events, but I fur V-neck sweater in burgundy or oyster haven’t really gotten into it as much. I’m gray, and a zip-top oversize leather clutch a little more interested in it now that I’ve in five colors, both styles emblazoned with [moved to] New York.” She was certainly the brand’s 30th milestone birthday — interested in Prabal Gurung’s show. “I first of were immediately available for sale after all love the people that come out to this — the show at tommy.com, said Baker. it’s the best people watching in the world,” Among the fans in the bleachers were Smulders said. “I’m a fan of [Prabal]; I love Victor Cruz, Robert Kraft (owner of the Super his prints, I love that he really mixes the Bowl-champion New England Patriots masculine and the feminine together.” Her — which is why Hilfiger held a Patriots front-row seat could be viewed as the start helmet when he took his bow), Olivia of a promotional run for a few upcoming Palermo, Estelle, Johannes Huebl, Louise Camuto, projects: “Avengers: Age of Ultron” — “a Rita Ora, Silas Chou, Rich Hilfiger and Julia small film,” she quipped — as well as WWDCAREERS.COM Restoin Roitfeld. — LISA LOCKWOOD two indies, “Unexpected” and “Results.” PRINT & ONLINE PACKAGES AVAILABLE Asked how she’s dealing with the cold, she ROMAN PRINCE: Stepping up its investments answered without hesitation, “Choose the Contact Christen Cosmas, WWD Classifi ed/Careers in the preservation of art works, Gucci outfit that the designer sends you that has a at 212.630.3937 or [email protected] last year signed on as the lead sponsor of jacket and pants.” — ALLY BETKER

DIESELBLACKGOLD.COM 68 GREENE STREET

WWDLASVEGAS SECTION II VENDORS & RETAILERS SEE MARKETS IN FLUX A FEW FRESH FACES ON THE SHOW FLOORS WHERE TO GO, WHAT TO DO ON ASSISTANT: EMILY MERCER EMILY ON ASSISTANT: Keep It Simple Minimalism is in full swing at the Las Vegas trade shows this week, as designers stick to basics that are sleek and modern. MARCEL DAGENAIS AT LVA ARTISTS USING ORIBE HAIR CARE; FASHI ARTISTS LVA DAGENAIS AT MARCEL

ON HER: AG’s leather jacket (WWDMAGIC), Cynthia Vincent Knit’s cotton and Modal top (ENK Vegas) and Levi’s Made + Crafted’s leather pants (Liberty). Melanie Auld silver necklace (ENK Vegas).

ON HIM: J. Lindeberg’s nylon jacket (The Tents at Project); Levi’s Made & Crafted’s cotton shirt (Liberty Fairs), and Vince’s cotton, polyester and spandex pants PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; WOMEN’S STYLING BY ANTONIA SARDONE; MEN’S STYLING BY LUIS CAMPUZANO (The Tents at Project). MODELS: VIKA FOR WOMEN 360 AND BRAYDEN FOR FORD; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MODELS: VIKA FOR WOMEN 360 AND BRAYDEN 2 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM Bob Anderson revives the tunes of Frank Sinatra in “Frank — The Man. The Music.” WWD LAS VEGAS foot space, designed by Philippe Starck in collaboration with Gensler and SLS Hotels, accommodates up to 500 guests and features an open kitchen with a wood grill and rotisserie “fi re stage” and a raw bar. The menu includes steaks, which arrive sliced, tapas style ($38 to $100), as well as options like braised lamb neck with fried oysters ($25) or the Morcilla with Uni, a Spanish blood sausage made with fresh sea urchin ($25). Other choices include a variety of meat-themed appetizers, soups, sandwiches, caviar flights, carpaccios and tartares, like a cotton candy foie gras with crispy amaranth ($8). For omnivores and herbivores, Andrés offers a selection of vegetable and potato side dishes and salads.

Bazaar Meat by José Andrés SLS Hotel 2535 South Las Vegas Boulevard Hours: Restaurant & Bar Centro: Sunday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday: Where to go, 5:30 to 11 p.m.; Bazaar Casino: what to eat and drink. Friday through Sunday, 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. By Rebecca Dancer Tel.: 702-761-7610 The Sayer’s Club at SLS Las Vegas. Scene Web: [email protected] WAX WOLF PACK SLS SINGS 35 craft beers on tap and a selection Anderson said. “I want everything to be For a quick comedic break from the Sayers Club at SLS, the second location of of specially designed cocktails, such as close to reality as possible.” trade-show rush, check out Madame the original Hollywood music venue, of- as the WTF, made of whiskey, red The 90-minute show, produced by Tussauds’ “Hangover Experience,” fers live music in an intimate, loungelike wine, Brooklyn beer and orange and Hoboken Productions in association a wax re-creation of the scenes and setting. Emerging artists and big names blackberry liqueur ($8.50). Or, for a with Stephen Eich, revives some of characters from the popular Warner alike — Lenny Kravitz, Tove Lo and late-night treat, try a spiked milkshake the jazz musician’s top hits, including Bros. film franchise based in Las Vegas. Capital Cities — have already performed with Bacardi coconut chocolate, “Come Fly with Me,” “One for my Located at the Venetian, the at the club, which opened in August. Kraken spiced rum salted caramel, Baby” and “My Heart Stood Still.” 30,000-square-foot museum’s newest The 4,688-square-foot venue has a Fireball whiskey cinnamon or Patron Tickets range from $71 to $176, themed room (1,100 square feet) capacity of 250 and unlike many other xo coffee flavors ($13.50). and performances run on Tuesday, includes wax statues of “The Hangover” nightclubs, The Sayers Club forgoes a Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday at characters Alan and Phil, played by traditional dance fl oor for a smoking- Tom’s Urban 8 p.m., and Friday at 9 p.m. Zach Galifi anakis and Bradley Cooper, room ambiance with leather-tufted New York-New York Hotel & Casino respectively, as well as replicas of the sofas and tables with bottle service, 20 3790 South Las Vegas Boulevard “Frank — The Man. The Music” hotel room, smashed police car and of which are VIP. Hours: Opens at 6 a.m. daily The Venetian wedding chapel from the fi lm. The The interior exudes an industrial vibe, Tel.: 702-740-6766 3355 South Las Vegas Boulevard “Alan” fi gure, complete with his ever- while an outdoor patio overlooks the Web: tomsurban.com Shows: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday present satchel, is the newest addition Strip, adding to the club’s relaxed feel. and Saturday at 8 p.m., Friday at 9 p.m. to the exhibition and took a team of 20 The lounge at the Sayers Club is open SINATRA’S SOUND Tel.: 702-414-9000 artists almost a year to complete. Monday through Sunday starting at 5 In “Frank — The Man. The Music,” Web: venetian.com/frank Madame Tussauds Las Vegas opens p.m., and the nightclub is open Thursday audiences at The Venetian’s Palazzo daily at 10 a.m. Tickets are $29.95 at through Sunday, starting at 10 p.m. Cover Theatre are transported to the CARNIVORE’S DELIGHT the door, or $23.96 if purchased online charges and table prices vary, but the Seventies to relive the classic tunes Bazaar Meat by José Andrés inside in advance. dress code is always upscale. of Frank Sinatra, who would have the new SLS Hotel is not a typical celebrated his 100th birthday this year. steak house. Rather, according to its “The Hangover Experience” The Sayers Club With help from a 32-piece orches- chef, it’s a culinary “celebration of the Madame Tussauds SLS Hotel & Casino tra, directed by Sinatra’s former carnivorous, in all its forms.” The Venetian 2535 Las Vegas Boulevard South conductor Vincent Falcone, and Oscar- Chef Andrés has two other 3377 Las Vegas Boulevard South Hours: Lounge: nominated makeup artist Kazu Tsuji, restaurants on the Strip, Jaleo and Hours: Jan. 2 to March 14: Monday to Wednesday, 5 p.m. to close; who aged Brad Pitt in the fi lm “The China Poblano at The Cosmopolitan. Sunday to Thursday: 10 am to 8 p.m.; Thursday to Sunday, 5 to 10 p.m. Curious Case of Benjamin Button,” Named “2014 Las Vegas Restaurant Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Nightclub: Thursday to Sunday, singing impressionist Bob Anderson of the Year” by Eater, among its March 15 to April 5: Sunday to 10 p.m. to close captures the essence of the Chairman many accolades so far, the dining Thursday, 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Tel.: 702-761-7618 of the Board. destination offers a lengthy list of Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Web: thesayersclublv.com “Playing this iconic legend is a meat and seafood in small or large Tel.: 702-492-3960 humbling and monumental experience,” portions to share. The 13,000-square- Web: madametussauds.com/lasvegas ALL DAY, ALL NIGHT For its third U.S. restaurant after Denver and Los Angeles, Tom’s Urban Tom’s Urban “Hangover Urban Slopper” burger. opened on the casino floor of New York New York, inside a 12,000-square-foot space next to the hotel’s replica of the Brooklyn Bridge. This contemporary, ca- sual dining chain comes from restaura- teur Tom Ryan, founder of Smashburger, and partner Rick Schaden, offering an eclectic menu of familiar favorites with worldly influences. Open “until the last cocktail goes down,” the newest Tom’s Urban serves globally inspired street fare for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late- night eats, such as the carnitas Cuban The dining room sandwich ($15), truffl ed Maine lobster at Bazaar Meats roll ($22) and Xiangxiang crispy duck at SLS Las Vegas. wings ($13). The varied menu also offers traditional bar food options like the Hangover Urban Slopper, a burger topped with pork green chili, queso, pico de gallo and two fried eggs on a butter-toasted brioche bun ($21.50). With three full-service bars and an outside patio, Tom’s Urban is also a “The Hangover Experience” at Madame Tussauds Las Vegas. good spot to stop for spirits, offering SAYER’S CLUB PHOTO BY ROB FORBES; SINATRA BY ED FOSTER BY ROB FORBES; SINATRA PHOTO BY CLUB SAYER’S AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED ADRIANO AG

SPRING 2015 AGJEANS.COM 4 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD LAS VEGAS Michael Stars’ Lycra spandex jersey tank Lacoste’s rayon, (ENK Vegas) and polyamide Hudson’s cotton and polyester and spandex cargo dress (Project). pants (Project). Skechers United Nude shoes fl oral shoes (FN Platform). (WWDMAGIC).

Diesel’s cotton and nylon jacket (Project) and Michael Stars’ cotton T-shirt (ENK Vegas). CC Skye necklace (ENK Vegas).

Scotch & Soda’s cotton beaded coat; acrylic, polyester, mohair and nylon sweater, cotton shirt and cotton and polyester pants (Project).

G-Star Raw’s wool varsity jacket (Liberty) and Cynthia Vincent Knit’s cotton, polyester and spandex pants (ENK Vegas).

STREET SMARTS Designers are taming the urban jungle with looks drawing on military and athletic infl uences. MODEL: VIKA FOR WOMEN 360; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MARCEL DAGENAIS FOR LVA ARTISTS; FASHION ASSISTANT: EMILY MERCER EMILY ASSISTANT: FASHION ARTISTS; DAGENAIS FOR LVA MARCEL MODEL: VIKA FOR WOMEN 360; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE

6 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD LAS VEGAS

Nic + Zoe’s polyester and acrylic shearling vest (WWDMAGIC) and Artisan de Luxe’s cotton fl annel dress (Project).

MAD FOR PLAID Plaid takes on a grunge vibe with great fl annel shirts and baby-doll dresses.

Velvet Heart’s Tencel shirt (WWDMAGIC), BCBGeneration’s cotton sweater tied at waist (WWDMAGIC) and True Religion’s cotton denim pants (WWDMAGIC).

Tractr’s wool and polyester jacket with cotton and spandex sleeves (WWDMAGIC), Desigual’s cotton and elastane denim jeans (WWDMAGIC) and Sam Edelman’s rayon and polyester plaid shirt (ENK Vegas). Tommy Bahama suede shoes (WWDMAGIC).

Levi’s cotton denim jacket with wool lining over a cotton dress (WWDMAGIC). Happy Socks cotton socks (Agenda and White Crow’s cotton fl annel shirt Project), (ENK Vegas) and J. Brand’s cotton Seychelles stretch denim skirt (Project). leather boots Melanie Auld necklace (ENK Vegas). (FN Platform). MODEL: RACHEL NUTT FOR IMG; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MARCEL DAGENAIS FOR LVA ARTISTS; FASHION ASSISTANT: EMILY MERCER EMILY ASSISTANT: FASHION ARTISTS; DAGENAIS FOR LVA MARCEL NUTTMODEL: RACHEL FOR IMG; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE

8 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 SECTION II

WWD LAS VEGAS

disposable income. I think eventually in this quarter and BB Dakota’s next quarter, we will see sales fl oral coat. picking up.” Heading into the trade Markets in Flux shows, Christopher Griffin, president of WWDMAGIC and Retailers are grappling with slow economic growth Sourcing, was encouraged by and spending shifts in categories. By Rachel Brown buyer enthusiasm. He disclosed attendee preregistration was up 27 percent generally and 42 per- cent for international attendees. IS IT OVER YET? Breaking down the segments Kut From “With the U.S. economy at As another round of Las further reveals rocky perfor- The Kloth’s full steam now and a lot of inter- Vegas apparel and accessory mance. While women’s outer- tweed jacket national markets still stagnat- trade shows, including MAGIC, wear increased 9 percent to with leather ing, people are coming to the WWDMAGIC, Project, Pool, FN $6.8 billion last year from 2013 sleeves U.S., both in terms of brands Platform, Sourcing, ENKVegas, and women’s activewear rose 8 and leather seeking growth and attendees AccessoriesTheShow, Liberty, percent to $15.9 billion, wom- pants. looking for newness,” he said. Stitch, Agenda, Capsule, en’s jeans decreased 8 percent Will attendees fi nd ade- MRket, CurveNV, the OffPrice to $7.9 billion. Men’s outerwear quate newness? Joanna Show and WomensWear in fell 2 percent to $4.4 billion, a Powers, general mer- Nevada, gets under way, brands smaller drop than experienced chandise manager for and retailers are grappling in men’s jeans, which declined feminine apparel at with the question of whether 5 percent to $5.4 billion. 30-unit Davenport, they have fully shaken off the It’s not all doom and gloom, Iowa-based retailer effects of the recession. though. Promising signs are Von Maur, is con- “The market is in fl ux. You emerging. In January, The cerned there won’t are seeing a lot of consoli- Conference Board’s consumer be enough because dation, and everyone is try- confi dence index showed the brands aren’t pushing ing to fi nd their place,” said highest level of confidence the needle with their Jason Gallen, president of since August 2007. The U.S. fall merchandise. Victorinox’s global fashion di- Bureau of Labor Statistics re- “So far, what I have vision. “Historically, when you ported that the country’s un- seen for fall is very simi- would look at housing prices employment rate was at 5.7 lar to last fall. Even the going up, stock prices going up percent for the same month color stories are very and oil prices going down, you compared to 6.6 percent for similar to last fall,” she would see much higher con- January of last year. The said. “It’s great that people sumer spend. The consumer National Retail Federation are continuing things that was really shocked by the re- projects retail sales will jump have already sold, but you sarily normal,” she said, elabo- cession, and the amount of 4.1 percent this year, slightly do need to keep showing rating that, as a whole, “They shopping for disposable things above the 3.5 percent bump reg- the customer something are reacting to the fashion piec- is less and less. People are istered in 2014. new. I’m hoping that es a little bit more. Any kind of smarter and investing in things Dominic Poon, president of something new emerges novelty I’m putting in denim, with longevity.” denim brand Level 99, is antici- at the show out of the people are reacting to positively. Overall, both men’s and pating industry-wide improve- contemporary market.” Before, they were a little more women’s apparel segments ment throughout the remainder When brands do take conservative — dark washes have been inert. According of the year. He said, “Holiday risks, they seem to be and simple bodies — but now to The NPD Group, sales of sales were pretty good. We bearing fruit more than they’re into a white cuff with a women’s sportswear, a category didn’t hear it was a disaster they have in previous funky bottom, and it’s great.” encompassing tops, bottoms, from anybody and, at the end seasons. Evelyn Ober, cre- Josh Reed, founder and chief jackets, suits, dresses and ath- of 2014, inventory levels at all ative director at Kut from executive officer of the men’s letic sets, remained fl at at $94.5 the retailers were pretty low. the Kloth, received good baseball cap and apparel brand billion in 2014 from the prior If low interest rates stay and responses from buyers to Gents, is finding that men’s year. Men’s sportswear suffered there is more disposable in- pops of acid green and acid wear buyers and consumers are a similar fate with sales stuck come due to low oil prices yellow in the brand’s shirts. also embracing color like the at $50.2 billion during the cor- and mortgage refi nancing, “That really surprised maroon, gold, blue and purple responding period. they [shoppers] have more me because it is not neces- hues the brand is featuring in its lineup of fall clothing, offsetting black, white and gray shades. “We are at the peak of men being more fashion-forward,” he said. “They are looking a lot more than ever at fi t and at color.” NOT JUST FORMULAS. If apparel companies aren’t Flexibilty. throwing crazy items into their fall collections, it could be be- We’re an entrepreneurial, family-run business that works cause shoppers are gravitating to unassuming fashion. “I’ve with each client personally. We’re not stuck on cumbersome found that the way people are procedures, and we won’t wrap you up in red tape. We pro- dressing now may be due to fast- fashion fatigue. What people are vide individualized solutions for each client—when you need buying are our most minimal us, we’ll respond. pieces. They are the best ver- sion of the maxi coat or a simple lace dress. They are the best From factoring and credit protection to fi nancing and manag- executed, great pieces. There is ing accounts receivables, Milberg Factors has been meeting a simple, cleaner look that’s ar- riving,” said Katharine Brandes, our clients’ needs for more than 75 years. We can help you creative director of BB Dakota. reach your business goals. So give us a call! You know we’ll Brands are strategically be here. releasing elevated versions of classic pieces for fall and holiday. At Tommy Bahama, for example, Bradley O’Brien, Milberg Factors, Inc. executive vice president of A TRADITION OF ENTREPRENEURIAL FINANCE design and product develop- ment, pointed out the brand is updating its cashmere sweaters Call 212.697.4200 Dan Milberg, SVP, NY with printing techniques that Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662 make them look like sea glass. Ernie White, SVP, Winston-Salem 336.714.8852 In accessories, Tommy Bahama is enhancing its repertoire as well, with the launch of printed

www.milbergfactors.com leather handbags. “We’re really ANTONIA SARDONE JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY NUTTMODEL: RACHEL FOR IMG; PHOTO BY ©2014 Milberg Factors, Inc. WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 9 WWD.COM

and less supertight skinnies in tional because come fall, what ets, blazers, tops and knits “We have seen a little bit of a denim,” she added, “but they’re are you tucking into boots? It’s during the second half of this lift in denim, but not enough Tommy not going anywhere just yet.” about practicality.” year. “It is extremely important to make me think it is going to Bahama’s The skinny certainly has In another tactic to cope that we complement ourselves make a huge comeback quite cardigan, staying power. DL1961 contin- with the activewear onslaught, as well as complement other yet. I am hopeful that, because sweater and ues to introduce skinny styles. denim brands are branching out brands, too. Then you become a for the past few seasons, [the denim pants. New ones include Danny, beyond denim. High-end jeans very large brand and very versa- shopper] has done nothing but which is aimed at tall women; brand Chip Foster is unveiling tile,” said Poon. “Last year, we buy knit bottoms, she is going to Florence, aimed at shorter knits for fall with 14 stockkeep- had almost 30 percent growth, return to denim.” women; Cara, relaxed skinny ing units in three color options. and we are expanding another Mitchell Quaranta, presi- overalls; and Farrow, which “I’m not ever going to lose 30 percent this year. Once we dent of Kut from the Kloth, is creative director Sarah Ahmed focus on denim, but you have to integrate our tops and knits, we sanguine about denim’s pros- described as a slimming high- adjust. You have to call an au- are looking at least for the next pects. “We see a defi nite shift rise legging in a power-stretch dible,” said the brand’s name- three or four years at 35 percent back to denim,” he said. “We fabric. “It’s perfect for a person sake founder. “We want to go to 40 percent growth.” have seen that in our sales per- who wants a skinny jean that into ath-leisure, but sloppier. Denim is not on death’s formance at retail. Denim is sucks everything in, or some- Everything is extra long. The door, no matter how hot active- turning faster, and we are opti- one who is very fashion for- collars are opened up. I just wear is. Retailers and brands mistic about this coming year.” ward,” she said of the Farrow. think that look is sexy.” sense jeans could perk up. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS “Skinnies are always very func- Level 99 is rolling out jack- Powers of Von Maur noted, FROM KHANH T.L. TRAN

CIT Knows Factoring looking at good, better, best, and making sure we have the right For decades, CIT has been a leader in factoring. Companies have amount of sizzle,” said O’Brien. turned to CIT to protect against bad debt losses, improve The rise of activewear and ath-leisure has amplified the collections, increase liquidity and control costs. importance of comfort and func- tion in clothing over edgy aes- thetics. In its motion underwear Today, CIT continues to lead the industry with a broad range of collection, Lacoste is incorpo- rating micro mesh for wicking services that include credit protection, accounts receivable and ventilation, and laser-cut holes for fl exibility and breath- management and accounts receivable financing. We combine deep ability. Kobie Procter, senior di- rector of global marketing and expertise in all aspects of factoring, a relentless focus on execution, communications at Delta Galil and a commitment to superb client service. Industries Ltd., which holds the license to produce Lactose un- derwear, sleepwear and lounge- wear, explains the mesh “is for an individual that has an active lifestyle. It is very lightweight.” Victorinox is introducing a modular system for fall that enables the wearer to snap its utility vests or liners into nine different outerwear pieces. “It allows the consumer to address different weights. Obviously, in dealing with major climate fl uc- tuations, we think this gives con- sumers a way to get the max out For information on how your company can benefit from of their wardrobes,” said Gallen. factoring services from CIT, visit cit.com/apparel or call us “Layering will continue to be an important part of his wardrobe. at 800-248-3240. The versatility of the wardrobe is key with the pressure consumers are under today. They will see the FACTORING • WORKING CAPITAL • CREDIT PROTECTION price-to-value [ratio] is clear.” ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE MANAGEMENT • IMPORT/EXPORT FINANCING Competing with activewear, denim has upped its game in the comfort department. Boyfriend, trouser and relaxed skinny vari- eties are gaining momentum at Siwy. Jen Neumeister, the denim brand’s creative director, said, “We are still seeing a strong reaction to and a need for skin- nies, but there is an underlying sense of people wanting things to be relaxed and not so clingy. The activewear trend trans- lates into the desire for comfort, whether it is in superstretchy or in softer fabrics, rather than © 2015 CIT Group Inc. CIT and the CIT logo are registered service marks of CIT Group Inc. just in activewear styles. “In a few years, we’ll see less 10 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 SECTION II

WWD LAS VEGAS who’s started working and Wholesale price points Rolo knows what’s going on in the range from $33 for T-shirts, + Ale’s world of fashion,” said Santana. $57 to $87 for skirts and pants, moto “She’s media-savvy and wants $97 to $157 for dresses and jacket. Ones To Watch to look on trend.” $97 to $187 for jackets and New names at the Vegas trade shows. A hallmark of the season is coats. Currently, the line sells the judicious use of Neoprene in about 50 stores including By Nola Sarkisian-Miller fabric in many interpretations, Neiman Marcus; À Bientôt in from brushed to sleek to em- Houston and Couture & More ROLO & ALE fi rst appearance at ENK Vegas bossed to printed. There are in Palm Beach, Fla. ENK Vegas, Booth #19104 in pursuit of more exposure na- fi tted motorcycle jackets in the Retailers say the line is Designer Rolando Santana is tionally and abroad. textured scuba fabric with top- driving demand as customers stepping on the gas. Now in its third season, stitching, and sleeveless drop- search out well-made clothing Along with the ready-to- Rolo & Ale has grown from oc- waist dresses with ruffl e skirts at the right price point. wear collection that he has casion dresses to a separates and fi t-and-fl are pencil skirts. “My customers are respond- helmed for the past 14 sea- offering of 90 styles for fall, in- The New York-based line ing nicely to the sons, he’s launched a dress cluding tops, skirts, coats and offers groupings in olive and FOR MORE, SEE line,” said Arlene line called Rolando by Rolando trenches aimed at a customer heather gray with orange ac- Bomar, owner of Santana at Lord & Taylor and in her early 20s to mid-30s. cents, camoufl age in an over- WWD.com/ Couture and More. is growing his contemporary “This addresses the woman size print with blue accents and fashion-news. “It has a great fi t and line, Rolo & Ale, making its who’s a recent college grad gray and black looks. hugs the body in a fl attering way.”

N:PHILANTHROPY ENK Vegas, Booth #24-129 It’s no secret that the fashion world often draws Type A en- trepreneurs from other indus- tries, bringing a passion that helps propel lines to success. That’s the hope of Yvonne Niami, owner and interior de- signer of real estate developer Skyline Development. (Her hus- band, Nile Niami, builds lux- ury mansions.) Yvonne Niami launched n:Philanthropy last season, surrounding herself with seasoned talent, including cre- ative design director Alexandre Caugant, a former partner of Antik Denim and past consul- tant to AG and Big Star. Niami has created a contemporary line that’s grown from an ath-leisure collection to a more rounded selection of 60 pieces of jeans, T-shirts, leather skirts, leather jackets and faux-fur ponchos. “It’s a mix of Rag & Bone, J Brand and The Kooples,” Niami said. Niami said the Los Angeles- based line emphasizes quality fabrics, such as certifi ed cruel- ty-free leather from Paris, and Ts made with 10 percent cash- mere for an ultrasoft feel. There are fake-fur ponchos with leath- er fringe, pencil skirts, side-zip flocked sweatshirts, slouchy boyfriend jeans, skinny jeans with two-way stretch, novelty denim styles with wax coatings and washable stretch leather sweatshirts and leggings.

n:Philanthropy’s sweatshirt and zipper pant. ROLO + ALE AND N:PHILANTHROPY PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: RACHEL NUTT FOR IMG; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE NUTT JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: RACHEL FOR IMG; STYLED BY + ALE AND N:PHILANTHROPY PHOTOS BY ROLO WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2015 11 WWD.COM

Picked up by nearly 20 retailers including Web site Lyon + Post and Hours: Feb. 16: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Kalifornia Jean Bar in Northern SHOWS AT A GLANCE Feb. 17 and 18: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Feb. 17: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. California, the line hopes to ex- Feb. 19: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. pand to bigger department stores Dates and times are accurate as of press WOMENSWEAR IN NEVADA, Feb. 16-19 and grow to include handbags time, but attendees are encouraged to MODERN ASSEMBLY, Feb. 16-18 Location: The Rio Hotel and shoes. Niami is in talks with a Shows: Liberty, Agenda, Capsule, Web: wwinshow.com handbag manufacturer. confi rm information. Accessories the Show, Stitch, MRket Hours: Wholesale prices range from Location: Sands Expo at Feb. 16: 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. $40 for T-shirts to $99 for faux- MAGIC MARKET WEEK, Feb. 17-19 Platform, Sourcing at MAGIC, Venetian/Palazzo Feb. 17 and 18: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. fur bomber jackets, $210 for Shows: WWDMAGIC, Playground, WSA@MAGIC Web: themodernassembly.com Feb. 19: 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. leather-fringed skirts and $565 FN Platform, Sourcing at MAGIC, Hours: Hours: for stretch-leather jackets. WSA@MAGIC, MAGIC Men’s, Feb. 17: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Feb. 16 and 17: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. OFFPRICE, Feb. 15-18 Charity is another component Project, The Tents, ENK Vegas, Feb. 18 and 19: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Feb. 18: 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Location: Sands Expo and of n:Philanthropy and a motiva- PoolTradeShow (Sourcing at MAGIC, Convention Center, Lower Level tor for Niami. She donates 10 Web: magiconline.com 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.) CURVENV, Feb. 16-17 Web: offpriceshow.com percent of profi ts to Children’s Location: Venetian Hotel, Hours: Hospital Los Angeles and to the Locations Mandalay Bay Convention Center: Bellini and Titian Ballrooms Feb. 15 and 17: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Society for the Prevention of Las Vegas Convention Center: MAGIC Men’s, Project, The Tents, Web: curvexpo.com Feb. 16: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Cruelty to Animals Los Angeles. WWDMAGIC, Playground, FN ENK Vegas, PoolTradeShow Hours: Feb. 18: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. “We wanted to create apparel with a purpose,” Niami said.

Colosseum’s body-hugging turtleneck, leggings and puffer vest.

COLOSSEUM WWDMAGIC, #61706 People might not always look fi t but they can look good in their pursuit of getting fi t, thanks to ac- tive apparel lines like Colosseum, one of the brands capitalizing on the booming ath-leisure market. Besides offering performance- based wear, such as its trade- marked C-Dri technology, which wicks moisture away, and Body Hug nylon-and-spandex blend fabrics designed for a slimming effect, the Los Angeles-based line amplifi es the fashion factor with bright colors, bold prints and nov- elty details. Sports bras feature double and crisscross straps, leg- gings offer extra-wide waistbands and shirt designs often include cutout back details. “Nike focuses on performance, Adidas’ lifestyle focus is more about the track suit,” said Kristen Keyes Sullivan, director of sales for Colosseum. “Our line is more feminine. We have many layering pieces, and [our customer] won’t look like she’s in workout clothes.” Raglan hoodies, puffer vests, cross-body sweaters and cable- knit tops are among the fall high- lights in colors such as guava, coral and bright lime in the 65-piece collection. Tank tops, T-shirts, sports bras, leggings and shorts round out the mix. Targeting a customer in her mid-20s to mid-30s, the line wholesales from $13 for tanks and T-shirts to $58.50 for outerwear. Already at chains including Dick’s Sporting Goods and Luke’s Locker, Colosseum is now aim- ing for higher-end boutiques. The line’s umbrella company, Colosseum Athletic Corp., which licenses collegiate products to about 400 universities, including USC and UCLA, gives it leverage to enter college bookstores as well. “We see this market growing for some time,” she said. INTRODUCING

NYGARDSLIMS.COM

Fashionably High Waist

(OLPLQDWHV0XI¿QWRS

Hip Compression

LIFTS, SHAPES, CURVES & SCULPTS

Eliminates Saddle Bags

Thigh Compression North Hall - Bth #61301 THE MOST REVOLUTIONARY PANT IN THE WORLD