Veeocee Mountain (Right Centre) and Ubyssey Glacier (Left), in the Mcbride Range of Garibaldi Park Photo by Alaistair Macdonald Th« Varsity Outdoor Quh Journal
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
Veeocee Mountain (right centre) and Ubyssey Glacier (left), in the McBride Range of Garibaldi Park photo by Alaistair Macdonald Th« Varsity Outdoor Quh Journal VOLUME Vm - 1965 7he VnivetMj of 3tiflih CoiumHa. Vancouver 8, B.C. i FRONTISPIECE PICTURE: Veeocee Mountain (ca. 7750') lies in the McBride Range of Garibaldi Park. Referring to the map drawn by Bert Port in the VOC Journal Vol. VII, the mountain lies three miles south-east of Mt. Cheakamus—just off the map. When the pioneers of mountaineering in northern Garibaldi Park, the Carters, Mrs. P. Munday and the Hooleys, met with the mem bers of the 1964 VOC Fitzsimmons Horseshoe Expedition to discuss new-name proposals for the area's unnamed features, it was commonly acknowledged that the VOC had, in the last twenty years, accomplished many outstanding mountaineering and ski-touring activities in Garibaldi Park. It was also agreed that these activities should be commemorated in the form of permanent geographic names for some of the park features. Proposed names were to be applied to prominent features and difficulty of ascent was to have no bearing on the selection. Glacier-clad Veeocee Mtn. is located on the outer extremity of a ridge trending first south, then west and finally northwest from Mt. Sir Richard. North and below the mountain in a valley bottom lies Ubyssey Glacier. To the north of this icy highway is a high jagged ridge with four chisel-like prominences, now officially known as The Lectures Cutters (ca. 8100'-8400'). This ridge is a portion of the colossal Sir Richard massif» VOC is greatly honoured that the Canadian Permanent Committee for Geographic Names and especially Messrs. J. Keith-Fraser and C. Young, have accepted these names of tribute. The proposals were officially recognized in August, 1965. For clarity on maps and to avoid confusion to the public, the committee asked us to accept the phonetic spelling of VOC and UBC. As far as we can surmise, the features are, as of yet unclimbed. Let us hope that the first ascents are made by VOC'ers I! Karl Ricker VOC President 1958-59 PRESIDENT'S ADDRESS At the time of publication of this year's journal the Varsity Outdoor Club will be in volved in its biggest and most ambitious undertaking of the past two decades—the financing and construction of a new cabin at Whistler Mtn. The implications and involvements that such a project requires can be fully appreciated only by those individuals who have helped to carry the initial idea through to reality. We pay tribute to these people. The present membership has raised a frame and has roofed and walled it. The future members will see the project through to completion. With the passing of years VOC has increased in number and interests. These new and diverse interests must overcome one very serious obstacle—the rapid turnover in club mem bership which is a natural product of university life. More than anything else, such a turn over hampers the continuity of long-term projects and often makes it difficult even to carry an idea through from one year to the next. The club activities include skiing and hiking, conservation and climbing, banquets and books. Each year we strive for new approaches and improvements to these more-or-less "regular'fclub activities. Less well known are the potentials of the future—the completion of our new cabin; the construction of trails and possibly of a series of alpine huts; the realization of an artificial climbing rock; Mountain Rescue and first-aid training; the expansion and promotion of the club's library, maps and climbing reports... The list is limited only by us, and we have time, youth, and ambition. Randy Harrison President 1965-1966 V.O.C. EXECUTIVE 1965-1966 Honorary President and Vice-President Mr. and Mrs. T. A. Kennedy President Randy Harrison Vice-President Joy Stanley Secretary Ann Nodwell Treasurer Dave Zuest Cabin Marshall Les Watson Climbing Chairmaiirman Bob Woodsworth Archivist Vera Rosenbluth Journal EditoDrr Nina Locke Membership Chairman Hank Reid Public Relationions Officer Peter Thompson V.O.C. EXECUTIVE 1964-1965 Honorary President and Vice-President Mr. and Mrs. R. Deane President Dave Higgins Vice-President Janet Rusler Secretary Joy Stanley Treasurer Henning Freybe Cabin Marshall Dave Hardie Climbing Chairman Peter Thompson Archivist Robin Kennedy Journal Editor Carolyn Young Membership Chairman Hart Pfortmueller Public Relations Officer Alan Whetter iii EDITOR'S MESSAGE The "outdoor" in our club's name brings to mind many varied activities: rock-climbing, skiing, touring, mountaineering, work-hikes, hikes - the list is inexhaustable. The fact that we are a club invites other activities: dancing, parties, banquets, meetings, cabin-building and so on. The "Varsity" which precedes it describes us: young, energetic, and willing. This Journal is an attempt to represent all of these many and varied facets of our club. We hope that it gives the people outside of our club an idea of some of our yearly activities. Every year there is a different emphasis expressed in the club. This year's activities have been dominated by the building of our new Whistler cabin at Alta Lake. We feel that this project deserves all the recognition and attention we can give it - and we have tried the best we can to represent it justly in the Journal. We would like to see an increase in exploratory and mountaineering articles in the Journal. With the notable exception of the Bute Inlet trip, there is a lack of these trips. We have tried to compensate for this lack with an increase in climbing reports and historical articles. We are grateful to Dr. Neal Carter (an honorary member of VOC and grad of '25), for his interesting article on the Fitzsimmons-Alta Lake area, and to Mr. Art Morton (an old member VOC'er who has been a great friend of the Club's for years) for his amusing and enlightening article on the history of VOC. In the past few years rock-climbing has become increasingly popular. Although we are not strictly a climbing club, we feel that rock climbing should be promoted and we encourage climbers to write up any new routes so that we can make them available to other climbers; members and non-members as well. This year we have made some technical changes in the Journal, mainly to improve its appearance, and to give it a more professional look. I would like to thank my committee for their invaluable help and advice; ito the contribu tors I express my sincere thanks; and to you the reader, may you enjoy our interpretation of the Varsity Outdoor Club 1! Nina Locke Editor 1964-65 JOURNAL COMMITTEE Editor Nina Locke Assistant Editor Sue Knibbs Assisting the Editor Tim Auger Marion Boyd Judy Mac Kay Lynn Morton Ex Officio Carolyn Young Photography Denny Hewgill TABLE OF CONTENTS Frontispiece Picture Karl Ricker • • i President's Address Randy Harrison ii V.O.C. Executive ii Editor's Message Nina Locke iii A. GENERAL CLUB ACTIVITIES WINTER AND SPRING 1964-1965 Winter Social Activities Janet Rusler 1 Awards Editor 3 Grad News Vera Rosenbluth 3 Autumn Activities Marmot Creek - A New Route Peter Thompson 5 Rock School Dick Culbert 5 The New Clubroom Randy Harrison 6 Mountaineering School Peter Thompson 6 Kakademon Kloset Peter Thompson 6 Mt. Boston Bruce McKnight 7 Christmas Trips Spelunking Alice Purdey 7 Kimberly Henning Freybe 8 Big White Alistair Thompson 8 Rossland Ann Nodwell 8 Winter Activities Ski School Randy Harrison 9 An Enticing Advertisment Peter Thompson 9 Garibaldi Traverse Peter Thompson 9 Apex Marg Latimer 10 Olympic Beach Traverse - Southern Party Ted Swanson 11 Olympic Beach Traverse - Northern Party F. de la Haye Ethel LansM 13 "Skiillusion" - poem Dick Culbert 15 Garibaldi Springtime Sphinx Camp Lynn Morton 16 Whistler V.O.C. Developments at Whistler • • • John Boyle 16 Wonderous Whistler Workers Judy MacKay 19 B. SUMMER ACTIVITIES 1965 Mt. Hood Jim Whittaker 21 Bowen Island Duncan Etches 21 Galiano Island Linda Lasalle 22 Monte Cristo and Cadet Pete Macek 22 Buttle Lake Sue Knibbs 24 Singing Pass Carole Fiske 25 V. O. C. Boys in the Bush Asgar Bentzen Al Whetter Glenn Woodsworth Randy Harrison Peter Thompson 26 C. EXPEDITIONS AND CLIMBING NOTES Bute Inlet to Pemberton Epic Anne and Dennis Holden Jane and Byron Olson 28 Five Fingers Bob Woodsworth 31 Squamish Chief Area New Routes at Squamish Hamish Mutch 31 North Arete Bob Woodsworth 32 North North Arete Bob Woodsworth 34 Grand Wall Tim Auger 34 Climbing on Campus Dick Culbert 36 C. EXPEDITIONS AND CLIMBING NOTES (Continued) The Cleveland Caper • • • Dick Culbert • 37 Arthur's Seat (Art's Ass) • Alice Purdey • 37 Phyllis's Engine Dick Culbert • 39 Two to Peru Hamish Mutch • 39 More Andean Ascents • • John Ricker • • 40 The Tetons Hamish Mutch • 40 Glossary 42 D. HISTORICAL ARTICLES V.O.C. Genesis Art Morton • 43 Alta Lake - Fitzsimmons Creek Area Neal Carter • 44 E. SPECIAL PROJECTS Conservation Sue Knibbs Barb Mioduzewska, 47 Fitzsimmons Nomenclature Bert Port • • 47 Mountain Access Committee Bert Port 48 ILLUSTRATIONS Veeocee Mountain frontispiece Winter Social Activities 2 Olympic National Park 12 Building the Cabin at Whistler Mtn • 17 V. O. C. 's New Cabin at Alta Lake • 18 Those Whistler Workers 20 Monte Cristo 23 Fitzsimmons' Cabin in Singing Pass 23 Cliff Hangers and Rock Hounds • • • 33 Climbing on Campus 36 The Barrier 38 On the Squamish Chief 41 MAP Bute Inlet to Pemberton 29 1 GENERAL CLUB ACTIVITIES-WINTER AND SPRING 1964-1965 WINTER SOCIAL ACTIVITIES 1S64-65 Janet Rusler Once again, one poor soul must tie herself into a chair and try to get her mind to recall coherently some of the details that went into those great parties in the midst of which VOC'ers always seem to find themselves.