Veeocee Mountain (right centre) and Ubyssey Glacier (left), in the McBride Range of Garibaldi Park photo by Alaistair Macdonald Th« Varsity Outdoor Quh Journal

VOLUME Vm - 1965

7he VnivetMj of 3tiflih CoiumHa. Vancouver 8, B.C. i

FRONTISPIECE PICTURE:

Veeocee Mountain (ca. 7750') lies in the McBride Range of Garibaldi Park. Referring to the map drawn by Bert Port in the VOC Journal Vol. VII, the mountain lies three miles south-east of Mt. Cheakamus—just off the map. When the pioneers of mountaineering in northern Garibaldi Park, the Carters, Mrs. P. Munday and the Hooleys, met with the mem­ bers of the 1964 VOC Fitzsimmons Horseshoe Expedition to discuss new-name proposals for the area's unnamed features, it was commonly acknowledged that the VOC had, in the last twenty years, accomplished many outstanding mountaineering and ski-touring activities in Garibaldi Park. It was also agreed that these activities should be commemorated in the form of permanent geographic names for some of the park features. Proposed names were to be applied to prominent features and difficulty of ascent was to have no bearing on the selection.

Glacier-clad Veeocee Mtn. is located on the outer extremity of a ridge trending first south, then west and finally northwest from Mt. Sir Richard. North and below the mountain in a valley bottom lies Ubyssey Glacier. To the north of this icy highway is a high jagged ridge with four chisel-like prominences, now officially known as The Lectures Cutters (ca. 8100'-8400'). This ridge is a portion of the colossal Sir Richard massif»

VOC is greatly honoured that the Canadian Permanent Committee for Geographic Names and especially Messrs. J. Keith-Fraser and C. Young, have accepted these names of tribute. The proposals were officially recognized in August, 1965. For clarity on maps and to avoid confusion to the public, the committee asked us to accept the phonetic spelling of VOC and UBC.

As far as we can surmise, the features are, as of yet unclimbed. Let us hope that the first ascents are made by VOC'ers I!

Karl Ricker VOC President 1958-59 PRESIDENT'S ADDRESS

At the time of publication of this year's journal the Varsity Outdoor Club will be in­ volved in its biggest and most ambitious undertaking of the past two decades—the financing and construction of a new cabin at Whistler Mtn. The implications and involvements that such a project requires can be fully appreciated only by those individuals who have helped to carry the initial idea through to reality. We pay tribute to these people. The present membership has raised a frame and has roofed and walled it. The future members will see the project through to completion.

With the passing of years VOC has increased in number and interests. These new and diverse interests must overcome one very serious obstacle—the rapid turnover in club mem­ bership which is a natural product of university life. More than anything else, such a turn­ over hampers the continuity of long-term projects and often makes it difficult even to carry an idea through from one year to the next.

The club activities include skiing and hiking, conservation and climbing, banquets and books. Each year we strive for new approaches and improvements to these more-or-less "regular'fclub activities.

Less well known are the potentials of the future—the completion of our new cabin; the construction of trails and possibly of a series of alpine huts; the realization of an artificial climbing rock; Mountain Rescue and first-aid training; the expansion and promotion of the club's library, maps and climbing reports... The list is limited only by us, and we have time, youth, and ambition.

Randy Harrison President 1965-1966

V.O.C. EXECUTIVE 1965-1966

Honorary President and Vice-President Mr. and Mrs. T. A. Kennedy President Randy Harrison Vice-President Joy Stanley Secretary Ann Nodwell Treasurer Dave Zuest Cabin Marshall Les Watson Climbing Chairmaiirman Bob Woodsworth Archivist Vera Rosenbluth Journal EditoDrr Nina Locke Membership Chairman Hank Reid Public Relationions Officer Peter Thompson

V.O.C. EXECUTIVE 1964-1965

Honorary President and Vice-President Mr. and Mrs. R. Deane President Dave Higgins Vice-President Janet Rusler Secretary Joy Stanley Treasurer Henning Freybe Cabin Marshall Dave Hardie Climbing Chairman Peter Thompson Archivist Robin Kennedy Journal Editor Carolyn Young Membership Chairman Hart Pfortmueller Public Relations Officer Alan Whetter iii

EDITOR'S MESSAGE

The "outdoor" in our club's name brings to mind many varied activities: rock-climbing, skiing, touring, mountaineering, work-hikes, hikes - the list is inexhaustable. The fact that we are a club invites other activities: dancing, parties, banquets, meetings, cabin-building and so on. The "Varsity" which precedes it describes us: young, energetic, and willing.

This Journal is an attempt to represent all of these many and varied facets of our club. We hope that it gives the people outside of our club an idea of some of our yearly activities.

Every year there is a different emphasis expressed in the club. This year's activities have been dominated by the building of our new Whistler cabin at Alta Lake. We feel that this project deserves all the recognition and attention we can give it - and we have tried the best we can to represent it justly in the Journal.

We would like to see an increase in exploratory and mountaineering articles in the Journal. With the notable exception of the Bute Inlet trip, there is a lack of these trips. We have tried to compensate for this lack with an increase in climbing reports and historical articles. We are grateful to Dr. Neal Carter (an honorary member of VOC and grad of '25), for his interesting article on the Fitzsimmons-Alta Lake area, and to Mr. Art Morton (an old member VOC'er who has been a great friend of the Club's for years) for his amusing and enlightening article on the history of VOC.

In the past few years rock-climbing has become increasingly popular. Although we are not strictly a climbing club, we feel that rock climbing should be promoted and we encourage climbers to write up any new routes so that we can make them available to other climbers; members and non-members as well.

This year we have made some technical changes in the Journal, mainly to improve its appearance, and to give it a more professional look.

I would like to thank my committee for their invaluable help and advice; ito the contribu­ tors I express my sincere thanks; and to you the reader, may you enjoy our interpretation of the Varsity Outdoor Club 1!

Nina Locke Editor 1964-65

JOURNAL COMMITTEE

Editor Nina Locke Assistant Editor Sue Knibbs Assisting the Editor Tim Auger Marion Boyd Judy Mac Kay Lynn Morton Ex Officio Carolyn Young Photography Denny Hewgill TABLE OF CONTENTS

Frontispiece Picture Karl Ricker • • i President's Address Randy Harrison ii V.O.C. Executive ii Editor's Message Nina Locke iii

A. GENERAL CLUB ACTIVITIES WINTER AND SPRING 1964-1965

Winter Social Activities Janet Rusler 1 Awards Editor 3 Grad News Vera Rosenbluth 3 Autumn Activities Marmot Creek - A New Route Peter Thompson 5 Rock School Dick Culbert 5 The New Clubroom Randy Harrison 6 Mountaineering School Peter Thompson 6 Kakademon Kloset Peter Thompson 6 Mt. Boston Bruce McKnight 7 Christmas Trips Spelunking Alice Purdey 7 Kimberly Henning Freybe 8 Big White Alistair Thompson 8 Rossland Ann Nodwell 8 Winter Activities Ski School Randy Harrison 9 An Enticing Advertisment Peter Thompson 9 Garibaldi Traverse Peter Thompson 9 Apex Marg Latimer 10 Olympic Beach Traverse - Southern Party Ted Swanson 11 Olympic Beach Traverse - Northern Party F. de la Haye Ethel LansM 13 "Skiillusion" - poem Dick Culbert 15 Garibaldi Springtime Sphinx Camp Lynn Morton 16 Whistler V.O.C. Developments at Whistler • • • John Boyle 16 Wonderous Whistler Workers Judy MacKay 19

B. SUMMER ACTIVITIES 1965

Mt. Hood Jim Whittaker 21 Bowen Island Duncan Etches 21 Galiano Island Linda Lasalle 22 Monte Cristo and Cadet Pete Macek 22 Buttle Lake Sue Knibbs 24 Singing Pass Carole Fiske 25 V. O. C. Boys in the Bush Asgar Bentzen Al Whetter Glenn Woodsworth Randy Harrison Peter Thompson 26

C. EXPEDITIONS AND CLIMBING NOTES

Bute Inlet to Pemberton Epic Anne and Dennis Holden Jane and Byron Olson 28 Five Fingers Bob Woodsworth 31 Squamish Chief Area New Routes at Squamish Hamish Mutch 31 North Arete Bob Woodsworth 32 North North Arete Bob Woodsworth 34 Grand Wall Tim Auger 34 Climbing on Campus Dick Culbert 36 C. EXPEDITIONS AND CLIMBING NOTES (Continued)

The Cleveland Caper • • • Dick Culbert • 37 Arthur's Seat (Art's Ass) • Alice Purdey • 37 Phyllis's Engine Dick Culbert • 39 Two to Peru Hamish Mutch • 39 More Andean Ascents • • John Ricker • • 40 The Tetons Hamish Mutch • 40 Glossary 42

D. HISTORICAL ARTICLES

V.O.C. Genesis Art Morton • 43 Alta Lake - Fitzsimmons Creek Area Neal Carter • 44

E. SPECIAL PROJECTS

Conservation Sue Knibbs Barb Mioduzewska, 47 Fitzsimmons Nomenclature Bert Port • • 47 Mountain Access Committee Bert Port 48

ILLUSTRATIONS

Veeocee Mountain frontispiece Winter Social Activities 2 Olympic National Park 12 Building the Cabin at Whistler Mtn • 17 V. O. C. 's New Cabin at Alta Lake • 18 Those Whistler Workers 20 Monte Cristo 23 Fitzsimmons' Cabin in Singing Pass 23 Cliff Hangers and Rock Hounds • • • 33 Climbing on Campus 36 The Barrier 38 On the Squamish Chief 41

MAP

Bute Inlet to Pemberton 29 1

GENERAL CLUB ACTIVITIES-WINTER AND SPRING 1964-1965

WINTER SOCIAL ACTIVITIES 1S64-65 Janet Rusler

Once again, one poor soul must tie herself into a chair and try to get her mind to recall coherently some of the details that went into those great parties in the midst of which VOC'ers always seem to find themselves. Then this poor soul must write them down so that sometime some sentimental slob can snivel over them recalling how things used to be when he was in VOC. But then again... it was the last year VOC headquarters were on Seymour.

As always, the year started out with a swinger of an Old Members' Party at Pam Hod­ gson's. There was the usual congested living room full of girls gabbing and boys, fresh from "Beautiful B. C. 's" bush, gawking. People downstairs were demonstrating the new dances acquired in the Banff social center.

The Splash and Dance, in true VOC tradition, was dry. And how can the girls who splashed compete with those who just came to dance? (they had dry hair, yet!) The nerve! ... Oh well, anyone can sing later. .. and everyone does when it's to Al Whetter's guitar and Ken MacKenzie's aecordian.

Clubs' Day-a huge success. It must have been to get the membership over the 300 mark. And I think it was Jim Fowler (?) who got stuck on a rope hanging from the ceiling... I guess it was a good vantage point from which to watch the Dance Club tangoing next door.

Long Hike-ah yes, I remember Long Hike! For once there was sun! And football games and swimming (some fully clothed), and a singsong on the beach under the stars with a big fire blazing (or trying to at least), and the kitchen crew eating fresh prawns. And, oh yes, the hike - eighty-three people on top of Mt. Wrottesley, and the spectacle of the trusty Holly­ burn rolling home under the weight of two hundred and twenty VOC'ers-to-be. Camp Potlach just has to be the ideal long hike location.

Short Long Hike was at Whistler this year. Some of the tents at Alice Lake camp were collapsed by a Vancouver crew who roared up in the middle of the night. Or, at least, they were supposed to have been. They had to tell them finally because the "joke" was ignored. Some people's sense of humor has to be prodded now and then, I guess. Despite the thirty mile drive from camp, about seventy "keeners" made it to the 7118' summit to over the vast alpine surroundings of our new home to be. By the way the peak was an altitude record for VOC long hikes.

My toes are still flat from being stomped on at the "Shakesperean Shake" Hallowe'en Party. Dances had to be held in relays, yet! Then there was the lovely Hank Reid, Ted Swanson in basic black... and the eternal workhikes on Sunday - chopping wood, of course, and washing the floor for the fourth time that fall (never to be done again till the following fall).

Mustn't forget the Kakademon Kloset parties at the Squamish Chief - an innovation by Pete Peeler, billed as the "main event of the social season". Only casualty was Lou Beau- chemin who disappeared into a hole.

Ah... the Caroling Party... it was blessed with powder snow! Thirty VOC'ers traipsed off into the snow in the University area alternately bellowing Jingle Bell Rock and warbling Winter Wonderland. "Let's sing No. 61!" "No! I want No. 34!" Zot! - another one bites the snow .. .oh well, there's lots of hot chocolate at Pam's place.

And New Year's Eve - the longest party in VOC history - lasted over two days - seems they got snowed in! But that turkey - oh that turkey! And all those girls stuck there with all those boys - too bad some of the intrepid Korabushka dancers got strangled in the ceiling decorations...

Well, the Seymour Gathering was so jammed with vying Christmas trip factions that there was barely room for fights to take place between the various groups over where there was the most powder snow. And judging from the quality of the skiing of the seventy "odd" participants in the Dam Downhill the next day, I'd say very few of the professed two hundred or so interior skiers did little more than bird-dogging during those glorious holidays. OPEN HOUSE VOC SLUSH CUP "Once upon a time. ... in a land far away. 3 The VOC Open House was once again the scene of two hundred, plus or minus a few, stompers... and those naughty chorus lines... Pink Panthers yet! Maybe that was the attract­ ion for so many members this year! But to think that some of our boys have talents in the ballet linel They were beautiful! That judge, though, a "Stirling" member of the girls' grasshockey team somehow stole the show. Then a mad rush to set up the excellent Con­ servation and Garibaldi displays for our snow-sogged visitors on Sunday.

And to end it all once again, there was the Reunion Banquet. Girls were in dresses, boys, unrecognizable in ties, and this year even a band was added. Carole Russell was awarded the Silver Pin. Don Lyon's narrative of his Himalayan trip was unforgettable. After watching his slides and listening to him, we realized just what there is waiting for us to see and do when VOC is far behind.

AWARDS

SILVER PIN. This is awarded to a member of VOC who has shown interest in and given service to the club beyond what is normally expected from a member. This year, for a pleasant change, the silver pin (a silver VOC pin) was awarded to a girl - Carole Russell! For a number of years Carole has been chief "food quarter-master" and has organized the food for many Garibaldi and Long Hike trips.

DAM DOWNHILL. The ingredients of a successful Dam Downhill are: 30 slalom poles, 140 skis and poles and 70 eager competitors. The results:

Men Girls Class A Bryce Howard Class A Barb Deane Class B Dave MacNamara Class B Vera Rosenbluth Class C Jim Stevens Class C Rita van Snellenberg

STEEPLE CHASE. This competition is another, traditional VOC activity. Starting from a pile of tangled skis and poles outside the cabin with about two miles of uphill, poetry recita­ tion, lemon sucking, whistling with one's mouth full of Quaker Oats and climbing through bi­ cycle tires with one's skis onl The results:

Men - Blair Smith Girls - Nina Locke

PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION. This is an annual competition; the awards are presented at the VOC Banquet in March, this year under the critical eye of Glenn Woodsworth.

Class A - A Mountain Scene Bruce McKnight Class B - Climbing or Skiing Bruce McKnight Class C - Natural History Ian Stirling Class D - Portrait Axel Kellner Class E - Club Activity Bruce McKnight Class F - Miscellaneous John Hembling Best slide in the competition Axel Kellner

GRAD NEWS Vera Rosenbluth

WHISTLER

Every week-end, more grads come up to the Whistler cabin site to see what's going on there. Asa matter of fact, most of the driving forces behind the project are grads. BYRON OLSON, our architect, has postponed his trip to Sweden and is spending long hours at the drafting board instead. He and JANE spend most of their "free time" at the site. JACK STATHERS, (grad '55), was elected to the Whistler committee and his advice has been inval­ uable. BRUCE AND DIANE WARD are back in Vancouver from New Zealand and Bruce has practically taken over the financial aspect of the cabin and is masterminding the sale of the Mt. Seymour cabin. Many others have spent every week-end since the middle of the summer surveying, pounding nails, sawing lumber, giving orders; people like KARL RICKER, CHARLEY DAUGHNEY, JACK BOULDING, TONY LYTTLE, ROLAND BURTON, NEIL ALWAY, and others to whom we owe a great deal. Mr. and Mrs. JIM GARDINER, Mr. and Mrs. JACK RATJCLIFFE, Mr. and Mrs. ART MORTON, Dr. and Mrs. N.A. MACKENZIE, Mr. and Mrs. CLARE WILLIS, CHUCK BOYD, Mr. and Mrs. J. FAIRLEY, Mr. and Mrs. BRIAN LEDING- HAM are among those who have managed to find their way to the cabin. 4

NORTH AMERICA

DON "BROWNIE" POOLE spent a lot of time at Whistler before leaving for Edmonton where he is studying P. E. at U. of A. JUANITA COWELL is working for B.C. Hydro in Van­ couver. DICK CULBERT'S Climbing Guide to the Coast Range was published in May and is a really worthwhile addition to any library. HARRY CUDDIE is working for Kennco in town. DEAN "the last of the Boy Puritans" GOARD is wowing the sweet young things in Kamloops where he is teaching. CAROLE RUSSELL is also teaching at Tod - whoops, I mean Kamloops. SUE TATUM is working for the Faculty of Agriculture at UBC. ANN PROVOST is attending a photography college in Santa Barbara where she is enjoying it immensely except for the lack of outdoor sports. BRIAN and SUE (Saxton) D'AOUST and their two young boys are living in San Diego where Brian is doing his Ph. D. in Marine Biology. When HU NAYLOR came down from the northern country this fall, he announced his engagement to JANET RUSLER and plans are to go north again next summer.

PAT BROCK, after a sojourn to the Rhodesian Copper Belt was seen on campus this autumn. BOB POTTER has temporarily side-lined his geological and musical career and is now studying architecture at UBC. KEN HUNT after three months of job-searching in Van­ couver (and skiing with VOC) is now working in Guelph, Ontario. JOHN HEMBLBSfG is work­ ing on some sort of constructive undertaking in the North Thompson area. SUSIE LEUCHTE, JERI-LOU SIMPSON, DIANA YATES, the frontier girls are all teaching school in the Prince George-Vanderhoof area. BILL SHUTTLEWORTH and HELEN were married in November '65. Bill's best man, JOHN FAIRLEY, has lately come into a quality no younger VOC'ers possess! He is now in the Quesnel Lake country.

Going further east, JEAN FINLEY, is studying in Montreal. NICK and JENNY CLOSE are back in Montreal after a bit of world travelling. GEORGE "Gimx" HEADLEY is in Quebec somewhere. JOHN HAMILTON is engineering in Toronto. JOHN PRINGLE is still in Chalk River.

Weddings! Must be contagious or something. BILL BOYD and MARION (Gardiner) were married in May and are now living on campus as Marion is taking her Masters in Social Work and Bill, his degree in Phys. Ed. SANDY and BETSY (Ferguson) LOCKHART were married at the beginning of the summer and are now in Smithers. In July, BILL TUPPER and FRAN (Pagan) tied the knot and two weeks later, DON LYON and HEATHER (Overton) followed suit. Heather is apparently the only girl who can match Don's wit and keep up to him on the trails. Don is working for Shell Oil in Calgary. SANDY and ROBIN (Kennedy) ROBIN­ SON became Mr. and Mrs. in October '65. A month later IAN and STELLA (Barbour) STIRL­ ING got married and promptly left for New Zealand.

AUSTRALIA-NEW ZEALAND

Seems to be all the rage! (I mean going to New Zealand, but it could apply equally well to getting married!) RIC "Big Chief" SEBASTIAN, after teaching for a while in Australia, decided to do some more travelling. Claimed he couldn't walk down the street without running into a VOC'er. PETER BENSON ran into ROY HYNDMAN and started a grand tour of the continent. KIM DEANE and GILL (Broach) have been in New Zealand for a year where Kim has been teaching. Ric, Peter and Kim plan to enter the Himalayas, where they are now heading. Gill Deane, accompanied by BARB DEANE, has left for England and will stay until Kim joins them and then will return to Vancouver in July.

EUROPE

BRIAN SCARFE returned to Vancouver from England, took time out to get married (to SUSAN CLARKE) and returned to England. DAVE HIGGINS, in South Hampton doing grad work in engineering, has his eye on Switzerland for Christmas skiing. DAVE HARDIE is touring the continent. LOU BEAUCHEMIN has set up temporary residence in London. DAVE MACRAE ("Honey Chile") is motor-cycling through Europe at present. Says he's going to stay there for a few years. HENNING FREYBE is studying at the University of Munich in Germany. 5

AFRICA

DENNIS and ANN HOLDEN left for Nigeria in October. After getting enthusiastic post­ cards from the Bahamas (that's on the way to Nigeria??) we hear that they are enjoying their new home very much. JOHN AUSTIN ("Oz") is also in Nigeria working for the same company as Dennis. CATHY FINLEY is still teaching in the Cameroons on the CUSO plan. PARKER WILLIAMS and ANNE LEE were married during the summer and are now in Tan­ zania teaching. JOHN and MARY DICK along with WENDY SUTTON are also in Tanzania.

JOHN RICKER was last heard from climbing in Peru with KEN BAKER. Ken returned to Banff in September while John accepted a mining geology job in Equador.

DAVE and LINDA KENNEDY are still working in a hospital in Ratlam, India where Dave is responsible for a small leprosy clinic. BOB and DI MACFARLANE are keeping pace with forestry in East Pakistan.

AUTUMN ACTIVITIES

MARMOT CREEK - A NEW ROUTE

Nov. 1. 1964 Peter Thompson*

Marmot Creek, the back-door approach to the fabulous Sky Pilot area, has only been used in the past two or three years. This route is faster and more interesting than the old route via the Cabin and Lake Utopia. The route is as follows:

Drive the seven miles from Britannia Beach to the Upper Townsite. Leave the car at the Townsite Lake and follow the logging road which continues up the northern side of the main valley. Three quarters of a mile further east Marmot Creek crosses the road. Pro­ ceed to the next bend and charge up the spur road which switchbacks up through the slash. From the end of the spur you make an ascending traverse across the slash and into the big timber. As you head up Marmot Creek (north), it makes a right angle turn to the east about half a mile from the edge of the logging slash. This is the entrance to a narrow U-shaped glacial cirque—the glacier is gone.

There is a bushy ridge on the right, Co-Pilot and a row of spectacular-looking pinnacles (all pseudos) on the left. Straight ahead, the South Ridge of Sky Pilot forms the head wall of the cirque. It is easy, open, alpine-type going all the way up the valley.

There are no technical difficulties in scrambling up the headwall. From the base of Sky Pilot's South Ridge it's up to you; high-angle rock climbing on the Tombstone, Ledglet or the south face of Ledge; low-angle rock climbing on Sky Pilot; or idyllic meadow-wandering through alplands. A pleasing circuit is possible into the area via Marmot Creek, through flower-strewn meadows and little mountain lakes near Ben Lomond, and out via Lake Utopia and the regular approach route.

*N. B. Peter Thompson - otherwise known as Peter "Peeler".

ROCK SCHOOL Dick Culbert

In 1964 the annual rock school was literally an overwhelming success. Fifty people in Murrin Park is overdoing it just a little bit for personalized training, but spreading parties out onto cliffs at Britannia and towards Squamish helped a bit. The weather was beautiful and fun was had by all, what with rappeling, chimneying, prussicking, and all the other strange rituals of roped climbing.

Wet slabs at Squamish telescoped all intermediate parties onto the Kiddies Korner route of the Squaw, creating a lamentable traffic jam. Despite such difficulties it was the most successful rock school within memory of participants.

Other scheduled rock climbs on Siwash Rock (at noon-hour) and Trestle Tower in Cheak­ amus Canyon demonstrated the potential of short low-altitude rock routes in winter. 6

THE NEW CLUBROOM Oct., 1964 Randy Harrison

At long last VOC has a new BIG clubroom. Located behind Brock, at the opposite end of the huts from the previous clubroom, the club's new campus accommodation is marked by the club name and crest painted outside the door.

Lavish (?) interior decor includes bright turquoise-green walls, variously-coloured bur­ lap curtains and a "way-off-yellow" cocktail-bar chesterfield. Black and white photos and posters add a finishing touch - and also cover up the unpainted parts of the wall. A four-hour construction job and $13. 50 worth of lumber from one of the old army huts produced an office to be used for general storage purposes, mimeo and typing work, and com- mUtee meetings. Ample bulletin boards in the main room provide information on all club activities: Christmas ski-trips, climbing news, transportation, Conservation, and personal notes. The club library is being updated and indexed (along with several hundred dollars' worth of maps) and will be made more readily available to club members.

MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL Nov 14-15,1964 Peter Thompson

Mountaineering School was an attempt to get away from the rock-climbing-oriented VOC training programs of the past. Fifty people attended the school--which was an attempt to climb Sky Pilot, 6616', the highest peak ;n the mountainous region east of Britannia Beach. The weather was good but the snow, knee-deepishly soft, left something to be desired. Two approach routes were used. One group of thirteen VOC'ers spent the night in the old Sky Pilot Cabin and climbed the South Ridge of the mountain to the summit. The larger party came up Marmot Creek and attempted the regular route from the East Col. Time and the large number of inexperienced people prevented this group from going higher than the East Col. One rope (with people at either end) from the large party managed to charge up and down the South Ridge Route before dark. Instruction was to be provided throughout the climb (much improve­ ment is needed in this area). However, a large group of people who had had no experience with mountains or mountaineering were given a first-hand introduction. I think we converted a few.

KAKADEMON KLOSET Autumn, 1964 Peter Thompson

A combination dinner party, marshmallow roast, and singsong were the high points of the VOC social season of 1964-1965. The Kakademon Kloset is a large cave formed beneath the house-sized boulders which have broken from the Grand Wall of the Squamish Chief. Even in the worst downpour the place remains dry and, consequently, singsongs take place rain or shine. There were two Kakademon Social Evenings this year, with a total of 130 people attending. The sales pitch goes like this:

"Well group! This is it. The weekend to end all weekends. The weekend to end the fall climbing schedule. The excuse, "I have to study", is not enough to miss a swinging Kaka­ demon Kloset Singsong. This exciting event takes place on Sunday evening, a time when no one does much studying. The thing to do is cram intensely Saturday and Sunday until 4 p.m. Then fill your car with other VOC'ers, enough to take care of the gas expense, and head for Squamish."

The magnificent scenery encountered along Howe Sound has been compared favourably with the French Riviera! Steep-sided mountain peaks rise abruptly out of the blue waters of the Sound, soaring to heights over 5000'. As the sky behind Gambier Island turns gold with the sunset, all worries about exams and studying are forgotten. You are heading for an even­ ing filled with laughter, music and song.

Darkness has fallen by the time you reach the parking lot at the foot of the Chief. A guide with a headlamp leads the carload of laughing, joking VOC'ers along a narrow path, across shaky log bridges over seemingly bottomless black chasms, and finally through the crawlway entrance to the cave. Inside, the atmosphere is warm, smoky, and filled with the melodies of a typical VOC singsong. The flickering light from a roaring bonfire illuminates the overhanging granite walls and the happy faces of the singers. Roasted marshmallows are passed around as you look for a place to sit. You have arrived! Now open your songbook and SING! 7

MT. BOSTON—CASCADE PASS AREA Oct. 25,1964 Bruce McKnight

On Saturday morning our group,which consisted of Al Whetter, Gail Robinson, Pat Brown- sword, Robin Bolton, Tony Knittel, Bill Boyd, Marion(Gardiner) Boyd and Bruce McKnight (leader) headed south to Marblemount where we had lunch. From here it was a thirty mile drive on a fair gravel road to our jumping-off place.

We didn't exactly jump off, rather we strolled off, and spent a leisurely two hours walk­ ing up the trail to our campsite, ten minutes below the Boston Basin.

Next morning the weather was poor, with snow and fog, but it showed signs of improving so we proceeded up into the Basin and along the trail atop a moraine ridge. From here our route led up the right side of Boston Glacier toward the col between Mt. Boston, 8900', and Mt. Sahale. The fresh snow and hot sun on the glacier slowed us somewhat, but there were no technical difficulties.

Eventually our three roped parties arrived at the ridge and enjoyed a spectacularly situated lunch astride a knife-edge. At this point Al, Gail, Marion and Pat decided to start down since it was unlikely that all of us could reach the summit under the present conditions - snow and verglas-covered rocks.

The rest of us cautiously traversed out onto the right face of the ridge and around to the face below the summit. I took three leads up the face through grade four rock and verglas. Here we reached a ledge about fifty feet directly below the summit where we were confronted with a grade five pitch. Piton-less, I scrambled up the pitch and rather shakily reached the sum­ mit where the blowing snow gave me a chilly reception.

It was 4 p. m. and the weather was deteriorating, so I decided against bringing up my stalwart belayers. Instead I quickly rappelled down to the ledge and the four of us belayed our way down the face in the approaching dark.

We hurried back across to the ridge and down to the glacier. It was 6 p. m and totally dark when we arrived at camp. It took us another two hours to grope and stumble back down the trail to our cars where the others were waiting.

Twelve hours later our amused classmates watched us trying to keep awake in our re­ spective 8:30 lectures!

CHRISTMAS TRIPS

SPELUNKING Dec. 1964 Alice Purdey

Spelunking*. This sounded like an interesting way to spend the vacation so why not? Early on Boxing Day, Dick Culbert, Dan Tate (BCMC), and Alice Purdey crowded into a heat- erless tomato-can (VW Van) and headed east—eventual destination, Cadomin, Alta. After missing a rendezvous in Calgary with our fourth party member, flat tires in the middle of no­ where, and sleeping in the van in -30 weather, we eventually reached Edmonton and met Dave, an Englishman in Grad Chemistry, who was to accompany us. Dave had had considerable ex­ perience spelunking in England.

The cave, about 1000' up a hillside, proved to be slimy but nonetheless intriguing. It was about 1500' long and consisted of side branches, a cavernous room at the end, layered passage­ ways, and of course, bats.

In Edmonton, more engine trouble forced us to spend the New Year's weekend with Dave, who happened to live only two blocks from the U. of A. campus. Radio warnings of cold weather did not stop us from marking the arrival of 1965 by climbing a few of their buildings. Routes were not immediately obvious and the campus Patrol seemed extremely active, but we did manage to climb a few. These included an ascent of the men's dorm with escape down the spiral chute of a silo-like fire escape. A home-made UBC flag was then hoisted up the flag staff on top of a main building in high winds and biting cold weather.

The homeward-bound journey was without incident. All told, the holiday, being rather 8 unusual, was certainly memorable.

cave exploration

KIMBERLY SKI TRIP Dec. 1964 Henning Freybe

The annual Christmas ski trip to Kimberly was again very successful. Some fifty students gathered in the Kimberly Cabin Court, where limited facilities in some units did little to diminish the enthusiasm of its occupants. Hats off to the ten skiers who, after coming down from a few days touring in the Lake Louise area, found little room in the Cabin Court, but still managed to survive in a cabin where previously four boys had barely managed to squeeze in.

This year we were blessed with fresh powder snow every day. In fact, it snowed a little too much for some people. Some interesting highlights were: the trip to the mine and the con­ centrator; the superb New Year's dinner and the party at the Stanley's; the Salty Dog Rag performed by costumed VOC'ers on New Year's Day on the ski slope for the other skiers and followed by a sing-song in the Chalet; and last but definitely not least, the tremendous skiing on the 1 1/4 mile hill.

One humorous postscript (to everyone but the participant) involved a VOC member who, after having numerous troubles with his old Austin, finally became so fed up that he sold it in Cranbrook for $20, as he started his trip back, and took the bus home. He now drives a dependable new car. All in all, it was a wonderful skiing holiday.

BIG WHITE Dec.1964 Alistair Thomson

A dark night, December 26th, twenty miles out from Kelowna, through a gate, 300 yards without a flashlight along a farm track and there it was - three rooms down and a loft up­ stairs, The Grand Hotel Big White. Soon the guests began to arrive and dribbled in for days after, new members and the venerable old who had smelled from many miles the delights of free accommodation and gastronomic fantasies (turkey and mush). Twenty miles to the ski hill and the lift with odd shapes disappearing up into the clouds. What a run! It only took a continuous 10 yard visibility to make each mogul a mountain, each tree a mistress. Off the main track there was powder, deep and exciting. And in the evenings there were guitars and sing-songs. On New Years Eve we had Murder in the loft, Kool-aid and dancing to Jimmy Shand. Dave Higgins' car snow pushers had a crazy week down on the farm while the cows just stared in stark amazement.

ROSSLAND Dec. 1964 Ann Nodwell

The night we arrived fresh fallen snow lay all around. Light and feathery, it sparkled in the moonlight and the billows of snow fell back upon the path we made as we walked along. Some fell into our boots, cold and tingling to the touch.

Hidden partly by the snow, the cabin sat small, cold, and distant on a small knoll. But then we saw the inside - the huge stove in the middle of the floor which was to provide so much warmth; the nets dangling from the roof which were soon to be overladen with clothes; the orderly eating utensils and dining table, and the seven inviting bunk-beds.

The cabin became home for the holiday. Full of warmth and laughter and clothes and people. We all remember—the "case toads", St. Taggart with his ethnic pajamas, the "fine" French essay and ethnic animal-skin-cover-all, Benson's off-key ethnic Irish voice, Hank's sewed-up clothes and ethnic "you'll pay", Joy's snow-plows and ethnic falls, Pash's birthday party, Al's ethnic guitar and neat parking habits — like behind a dangerously close bus while three cowards in the back seat cringed either because of the scene in the front seat, or the dangerously close bus. And everything was "Oubilioo" and all that...

The sleep-ins were great. And there were a few early mornings— An easy slide down to the tow - except when you had no skiis and had to balance on the back of Taggart's. And sometimes at night the mountain lit up and hung beside the cabin. Then there was night skiing and flying leaps over shaded moguls. 9 Of course, we're all super-skiers now. And at least some of us can reach the bottom of a hill still standing!

WINTER ACTIVITIES

SKI SCHOOL Jan. -Feb., 1965 Randy Harrison At the start of the spring term the club initiated a weekend ski school on Mt. Seymour. Instructors were drawn from the ranks of those who could stand up on skis longer than anyone else, and a schedule of three lessons per class was established, there being about eighty people divided into ten classes.

The original intention had been to have three categories of lessons - beginner, inter­ mediate, and advanced. However, it was soon obvious that the latter category was unrealis­ tic as no-one could ski well enough to instruct it. Having eliminated the "advanced" section, the remainder of the classes were carried out with some measure of success. On any sunny Sunday, VOC'ers could be found all over the hill, progressing down the slope by any one of several very modern techniques: zee snow plow, zee stem Christie, zee oops!

AN ENTICING ADVERTISEMENT BY A CLIMBING CHAIRMAN Peter Thompson

Early Sunday morning you leave the crowded commercialized areas behind and ski into the heart of the magnificent wilderness of - Mt. Seymour Provincial Park. Your impressive objective is Mt. Seymour, the glorified bump which dominates Vancouver's northern horizon.

The trail switchbacks through the towering evergreens motionless in their icy winter coats. The frozen silence is broken only by the clatter of the chairlift, the honking of car horns, the anguished screams of the wounded yo-yo skiers on the chairlift run, and the guy behind you swearing because his skins have come off. You close your ears to the crude noises of civilization and plunge deeper into the wilderness. Unparalleled beauty unfolds at every stride. Ahhh... at last... the ultimate quiet! (Except for that guy still cursing his lousy skins!)

The line of people before you comes to a sudden stop. The Leader slowly raises his ski pole to point out a great white mound of snow silhouetted against the azure blue sky. His voice charged with emotion the old mountaineer utters two words - the summit! A shiver of fearful anticipation runs down your spine, your goal is in sight - the summit of mighty Mt. Seymour! Then it occurs to you that only ten thousand people have climbed that fearful peak since 1920!!

GARIBALDI SKI TRAVERSE

Mar. 4-6,1965. Peter Thompson

Despite packs weighing approximately four thousand pounds each, the Group of Three grinned happily as they started off from Diamond Head Lodge March 4th. What else could they do - there was a large group of yo-yo skiers waving good-bye.

The plan was simple: ski up one glacier (sweat!), cross the Garibaldi Neve, climb Garibaldi (8787') (Hurray!), ski down the north face (ACK!), traverse to the head of the Sentinel Glacier, ski down to Garibaldi Lake (wheel) and on down to Garibaldi Station in time to catch the evening train on March 6th (Pant! Pant!).

The situation looked good i. e. the good old sun was shining. The Group of Three, namely Sandy Macdonald, Jim Whittaker and Peter Peeler were happy.

Our twenty-five mile traverse started rather negatively with a sort of "hairy" descent 800' into Ring Creek. The numerous avalanche chutes that one must cross were in good shape; they were nice and icy. This is better than having them full of rapidly moving snow (like an avalanche). Swimming across avalanche chutes is really hard to do with a four thousand pound pack on one's back. One tends to go down a lot faster than one goes across.

Once down into Ring Creek the long monotonous slog to the head of the valley began. xo And we slogged, and we slogged, and seemed to be out of shape or something. About four thousand hours later (4 p. m.) we camped for the night. Neve Camp was set up just below the southern edge of the Garibaldi Neve at a cool 6000' above sea level.

" wind is cold. Time for down jackets and mitts!" Jim struggles with the primus while Sandy and I stamp out a tent platform.. .mmmm! Comfort! a fluffy down sleeping bag, foam mattress and a mug of hot soup.. ." A cold, wintery-type morning made for a quick breaking of camp. The Group of Three trundled up to the edge of the Neve'. We paused for a moment, speechless, absorbing the beauty of the panorama that had suddenly become visible. The Neve' stretched out like a table top to the lumpy form of 'Pringle Ridge'. Our eyes followed the ridge up over Tent Peak to the summit of Garibaldi (8787'), definitely a "hairy" peak from the southeast.

Four long sweaty hours later we were sitting on our packs looking up the last thousand feet of Garibaldi's north face. The route was obvious. Leaving our packs behind we climbed another fifteen minutes before we had to leave our skis firmly implanted in the snow. The bergschrund was no sweat, a large snow bridge solved that problem. Five minutes later a cheerful cry, "It goes!" Another 300' of steep step-kicking brought us to the summit.

Grins of satisfaction appear under three sets of dark goggles... a handshake, a bite to eat... that dirty other world of pulp mills and noise and smoke lies thousands of feet below, SCORN! ... the arrogance of a mountaineer. Then- "Time to crawl down off this thing, Group1"

It was late in the afternoon, the north face was already in shadow. A bum-schuss from the bergschrund down to our skis saved some time. Quickly, numb fingers fumbling with frozen bindings, the Group of Three get into their skis. Ho! Ho! and away we go! We shot down through the untracked snow to pick up our packs. The snow was unbelievable, fluffy powder, but well consolidated so that even with heavy packs our skis settled only 8 inches. Sandy "wedeled" down through the ice fall while Jim and I snowplow-turned. "Damn these lousy packs 1"

Just east of 'Shark Fin Pinnacle' we pointed our skis straight for the North Col, 500 feet below and a quarter of a mile away, .. . one. . . . two. . . . three.. . . Charge! Yabba dabba doooo! Yelling like idiots we made it one long wild schuss.

The last bit of uphill on the trip brought us to the head of the Sentinel Glacier; 2000' below and two miles away was Garibaldi Lake. Three pairs of eyes shone with a wild light. To start with, even Sandy had to join in the multi kick turns forced upon us by the packs. But not for long. Now we could see a direct line to the edge of the Lake. Screaming for joy the Group of Three rumbled down the glacier.

We coasted almost to the edge of the frozen lake, dropped our pack and set up what was to become known as Cold Camp. The next morning we were halfway across Garibaldi Lake before our frozen ski boots thawed enough to tie them up.

At approximately 2:17 PM we hit our first running water in three days. Melting snow for water is a painfully slow process. Happiness is letting cold water trickle down your throat. We neatly avoided everything the Barrier threw at us. One more run, two miles down the new road to the highway and it was carry-the-skis time. The Group of Three managed to meet their train and they lived happily ever after.

APEX-MIDTERM BREAK Mar 3-7,1965 Marg Latimer

On March 3rd, thirty eager skiers set out for Apex, a new ski development 23 miles southwest of Penticton. We had been given the entire use of the two-storey lodge at the Apex Ski Village which is located 9 miles from the ski area. Most of our group did not arrive until midnight. For some members, sleep came only after a thorough exploration of the new surroundings and a skate on the adjoining ice rink.

The facilities at Apex are excellent. A ride up the 3800' Pomalift brings you to an eleva­ tion of 7100' from where one obtains a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains and valleys. From here intermediate skiers can practise their skills on the "Juniper" run; ad- 11 vanced 3kiers will find plenty of challenge on the "Chute" and the "Guabarrel." A "grand­ father" trail provides satisfaction for the cross-country skier. Two rope tows and a 3000' T-bar accommodate the beginner (at the bottom of the hill). Here a rustic log chalet invites he-ing and she-ing in its friendly atmosphere.

Every day our spirits were as bright as the sun. Several members took full advantage of the heat and skied in bathing suits or shorts. Warwhoops and yodelling could be heard from all parts of the mountain as elated VOC'ers expressed their happiness while schussing through the dry powder snow. Some people became so enthusiastic that they kept falling off the Poma- Iift in order that they might try some uphill skiing. One fearless John Jungen seemed deter­ mined to see how many trees he could take out.

The time on the slopes passed very quickly and the hungry skiers returned to the lodge. Here they eagerly attacked delicious meals prepared under the master supervision of Carole Russell and Barb Mioduszewska. The evenings were filled with ice hockey, card playing, dancing, singing, and accordion music by Rudy Rothe. Some people provided added enter­ tainment by playing practical jokes. In one case two culprits decided that everyone should have the opportunity of hearing "A Hard Days Night" at three in the morning. It came on full blast at the scheduled time and startled a certain young lady who flew downstairs in her night­ gown and pulled out the plug of the jukebox. She was greeted the next morning by a delegation of five boys who scooped her up, blankets and all, and abandoned her on the far end of the ice rink. Leader of the trip, Gerry Meyerman, who boasted that no one had done anything to him, was rewarded with a deluxe hot dog seasoned with gravel and chile and a car gift-wrapped with t. p.

Too soon it was time to leave and everyone reluctantly headed back to Vancouver.

OLYMPIC BEACH TRAVERSE - Southern Party Mar. 1-4,1965 Ted Swanson

Leader: We were sort of an anarchistic outfit.

Members: Karl Ricker Penny Kemp Asgar Bentzen Madame X (we didn't get her name) Lou Beauchemin Dave Mallett Darryl Rhodes Frank Dembicki Ted Swanson

... Fwop, fwop, fwop, fa-wop. Again? It's about the neat tires on your car Darryl.

It's about the fact that I've got thirteen people in my 1950 Anglia, Swanson!

Well put. Anyway, how'd you like to move some of these sleeping bodies so we can get out and fix it...

In case you're just tuning in, this is the first annual (annulled?) Olympic Beach Traverse - Southern Rebel Faction speaking at ya.

Actually, the Southern party was only half of a huge, quivering mass of apathetic VOC Keeners (we were the keener half!) who set out on the March 1-4 midterm break for sand, surf, sun (75 worth) and seagulls (they found us t*% !!) on the Washington coast.

Having been informed by that wondrous sage, Axel Kellner that the drive down would take only five hours, we bombed off Friday night in Darryl Rhodes' Supercar. Fifteen hours - and almost as many flats - later, we arrived. Have you ever tried substituting an air mattress for an inner tube? Don't bother.

Saturday morning was typical. After about ninety minutes of sleep we were awakened by the ecstatic twanging of Lou Beauchemin and her cheering section - "The VOC Movers" - Asgar Bentzen and Karl Ricker, who incidentally just happen to be the club's oldest, shrewd­ est, cunningest bird dogs. Woof! Woof!

To further our cheerful awakening, no sooner had we begun our northward trek than the beautiful Pacific Sun was blotched out by a huge, white cloud. That is, a huge, white cloud * of four hundred eighty thousand well-fed, dive bombing seagulls. As a result, Asgar became Olympic National Park beach traverse - Giant's Graveyard photo by Denny Hewgill 13 the first man to walk the whole way from Oil City to LaPush with his umbrella up.

One of the more eventful parts of the trip was caused by the combination of a high tide and beach running ie. the tide was high all afternoon and we wanted to make it to the Toleak Hilton (half-way house and social citadel of the Pacific Coast) by nightfall. In other words the object of the game was to try to run from one rock to another before the next breaker rolled in. It's a great feeling being fifty feet from that next rock and seeing four feet of wave about to clobber you.

Anyway, we didn't make it to the Toleak Hilton Saturday night. Instead, we had to settle for Mosquito Creek Shelter which is like staying in the Stanley Park Hollow Tree when you could have had the Bayshore (well. . .almost). The entertainment that night was simply great, from the plunkety plunk of Lou's guitar to the nasal tones of Dave Mallett, otherwise known as Foghorn (he sings like a "flunk out" from a Nasograph commercial).

By noon Sunday we reached the infamous Toleak Hilton only to find numerous empty cans, five pairs of old shoes and one dead racoon but no people! So we picked an off weekend?

To complete our day we reached La Push and our trail's end. There we were greeted by a huge, sprawling, amorphous mass of people (obviously a Shriner's Picnic, gang) which turned out to be the slack Northern Party. They were still resting up for the hike. After another ten hours of confinement in Darryl's car (actually an upholstered rollerskate) we un­ loaded ourselves at Peter's IceCream Parlor where we showed off our golden tans and grubby clothes to the typical office-grey, Monday morning clientele.

Well, that was the Olympic Beach Traverse Southern Party Style. Actually, the beach is very beautiful (especially at low tide), the trails are well marked, and shelters are in great shape. The 1965 beach trip was a real lark - so watch out for the 1966 version.

OLYMPIC BEACH TRAVERSE—NORTHERN PARTY Mar. 4-6,1965 Frankie de la Haye Ethel Lanski

Two minutes behind schedule Axel Kellner and his "merry men and women" tore across Oak Street Bridge on the first leg of the Olympic Beach Traverse. We managed to stay to­ gether most of the way even when two V. W.'s were dragging but at Burlington, Denny got off the beaten track, and at Bellingham Roy got behind when he stopped to buy some oil.

We (Axel's and Peter's cars) arrived at the Keystone Ferry with plenty of time to spare— like 24 hours! This ferry runs Friday to Sunday—and we arrived on Thursday. * At this point Roy caught up and, still in high spirits, we took the "scenic route" 100 miles out of the way which offered as added attractions: two ferries, $5 and a toll bridge. Little did we know that Denny and the two Sues would wait an hour for us at Keystone—after we'd gone!

After the usual minor detours and delays—like el cafe at Port Angeles, missing turn-offs, etc. —we parked the cars near La Push and, with the natural instinct of experienced woodsmen (?), found the trail and left the usual V. O. C. marker for the delinquent groups—white T. P. Roy's crew was left behind with oil problems again. After an hour and a half of confusion—it was after dark and we had three flashlights among seven people—we shouldered the right packs and slogged down the muddy (and how!) trail to Third Beach. At our campsite on the sand, the guys "made" the fire—it's about the can of naptha that was full at 8:00 P. M. ! Needless to say, we dined at a very fashionable hour that evening.

It was insignificant to us that we had set up camp at low tide; however the girls returned from washing dishes (in salt water—oh!) uttering words of wisdom: "Sure looks like the tide's coming in all right!" The fellows paid no attention to our warnings until. . . YOW. . .. the tide IS coming in! Head for the hills—literally! We gathered our gear and re-located about thirty feet higher on an uncomfortable but DRY trail! Denny's late group had to sleep in the trees.

Next morning while some of us had sand and eggs, John and his harem upheld V. O. C. tradition and had sand and MUSH. After breakfast Sue Parrott regressed to her childhood, mistaking a windfall for a hobbyhorse!

We wasted an hour or so clearing up, and started hiking, with Toleak Point our objective. 14

We walked along the beach as long as possible until the tide (we could tell this time that it was coming in) forced us in and upland. The weather was perfect and the scenery beautiful— jagged sea stacks of the Giant's Graveyard.spin-drift blown along the shore, and multi-inter­ esting diversions to slow us down: tidal pools, rock collecting and Hembling movie picture- taking! A local we met on the way told us not to bother looking for the Japanese glass fishing floats that were up on shore—he had just walked north on our route and found seventeen. How­ ever, he did miss two... Sue and Axel found one each later on.

Two miles from Third Beach, we stopped for lunch. Roy and crew caught up with us here after having spent the night in a State campsite half an hour away from the rest of the group on Third Beach. (Roy reminds us that they had warm water—and no tide!) Here we also met the anarchistic southern group who were hiking north from Oil City for their second day. We swapped "tall tales" of great endurance (?)—two miles in three hours—and other phenomenal wonders.

Denny, a really keen type, was already three miles ahead of us, shooting off the odd dozen rolls of film and was waiting at Toleak Point, when we finally arrived. Axel found that he had carried a ten pound boulder (courtesy of John Hembling) in his pack for the last mile or so. (Shades of Bralorne, eh Axel?) The prospects of cabin-sleeping were wiped out when a skunk nicely let off about a day beforehand. John had made a lean-to for himself and his harem, so there were some dry people in the camp. So again, we slept out in the open and woke up with frost on our sleeping bags. The group split up in the morning with five contin­ uing to Oil City. Our first obstacle was Goodman Creek, which we had to ford without the help of a fallen tree. Was it COLD! Four of the saner types waded across in knee-deep icy water, but Roy chose his own path and got wet to the waist. Then, after we'd walked about half a mile, he realized he'd left his camera behind— on the other side of Goodman Creek!

Just nicely dried off from that crossing, we were confronted with Mosquito Creek. Roy and Axel went one-quarter of a mile out of the way to cross the creek on a fallen log, and nearly slipped off in the process. The girls, however, braved the knee-deep, warmer-than- Goodman Creek-water and beat them across. The funny thing is that the boys spent fifteen minutes trying to calculate the depth of the water by throwing rocks into the water, finally deciding that it was too deep. Talk about feminine intuition, eh fellows?

That night four of us slept in the woods. Again Roy was the "black sheep" and back­ tracked a mile to sleep in a dilapidated "shelter" near Mosquito Creek. The next morning we headed off without breakfast in order to get around the last point at low tide. Everyone but Frankie made it around dry—she ran into the deepest tide pool around when she saw a breaker ten feet away, charging in to soak her—and got wet anyway! A little later on she got dunked up to the waist—and standing on a rock. Well, it was a little rock, Ethel!

We got to the cars around noon, happy, wet, sunburned and hungry, with one glass float, lots of bruises and a terrific weekend behind us! We wish more could have come, and hope that this will become an annual event. Everyone should have the opportunity of getting soaked by out-running or not out-running a breaker!

*Hints for Olympic Beach Hikers: 1. Always carry a ferry schedule 2. Carry an extra $5 in case you forget #1 3. Take a tide chart along—seriously, and flashlight and primus 4. Bathing suit and towel in case you forget #3 or #1 5. Oil and a good navigator 6. Join the north party for the greatest time—southeners drawled all the way! 7. Trails over the headlands when approached from the south are often poorly marked. Use the sketch maps and instructions published from the National Parks bearing in mind that the locations are approximate on the sketch.

Merry Crew: Leader-Axel Kellner Groups-Denny Hewgill and Sue Knibbs, Sue Parrott John Hembling and Roberta X, Marie Y, (the Harem), Peter Dean Roy King and Helmut Z, Marilyn MacPherson Axel and Frankie de la Haye, Ethel Lanski. SKQLLUSION

The silence sweeps in naked arcs Across a wild simplicity. There breathes a certain welcome sting, A bracingness in everything That spans the taunting range you ski.

It's ice dust sparkling in a draught, The scrunch and slide of powder snow; Unbroken morning trails that go Through fairylands of ice-wrought trees— Cold noses, on a drifted crest And simply being there to test Those powder slopes the cross-winds tease.

From crystal snow through crystal skies, Like gleaming teeth, white ranges soar, And fluted crags of ivory rise, On ramparts from the valley floor— But still the silent canyons slice In vaulted sepulchres of ice.

A pause In harmony with all in sight, Anthems poised on wind and white. .. Away! Glide unleashed, and a small first turn, A lazy arc on the brow of day And suddenly snow slopes drop away, It's half about in a skidding loop • And the skis recoil in a dizzy swoop On down through the bouncing, flashing white, Exalt to the tingle unfurled in flight Out on the crust of a ridge, swing wide Then back through the silent powder tide, Snow devils dance on your drifting track And feed on the clouds your shins throw back.

Aphelion left toward a cornice rim And around in a spray of powdered ice Your edges hiss, then catch and slice To vortex deep through the spinning drifts; Stream on, release, until something lifts And you seem to break from a web of laws, Then swirl to a halt for a moment's pause, To look again at the gleaming slope And watch the ski-flung snowballs go With a rollicking bounce toward the world below, Their trails arc wide with a careless ease And they seem, with the aid of a restless breeze To challenge the wilderness in man To plunge from the bonds that his teachings span And schuss the wind until something sings, Its the closest thing to a blood with wings, For the sudden sting of a silver nerve Resounds with a flashing dream to cut A moment's notch in a neon rut, And the whispering tracks of a dozen skis That inter-arc toward the distant trees From the virgin snows of a day begun Toward rhinestone trails in the setting sun Weave bonds that many times transcend The last sweet schuss to a journey's end.

Dick Culbert 16

GARIBALDI SPRINGTIME

SPHINX CAMP May 1965 Lynn Morton

Don't be a slack cabin type! Live in a tent on a glacier! See fantastic sunsets! Have the best skiing yet at your back door! Have a thrilling view from the John! Stay at Sphinx Camp! Only one short trip across the Garibaldi Ne've and you'll be there.

This is the sales talk given to all at the Garibaldi meetings. This is what ran through our heads as we battled our way up Ring Creek to the Neve'. This is what we dreamed about as we slept two nights below Pringle Ridge waiting out a storm. This is what we got when we finally arrived at Sphinx Camp.

Every day we got up late (6 a. m.) and were greeted by a yummy breakfast cooked by the guys (served in bed of course!) After unfreezing boots and skins we all headed up the hills for a day of spring skiing and sunshine. From the top of Deception (50' of rock work yet!), the Bookworms (no white-outs this year), Sphinx Mt. (no ropes!) and the outer peak of Guard, we got a unique view of the Garibaldi area.

Each evening Sphinx Camp had entertainment. After dinner the Beatles (Nina, Vera, Lynn) would let their hair down and sing a note or two. The local help would fetch wood (all dead!) and build a fire in the middle of a babbling brook. The sun would set on just the right peaks so the Shutterbugs could go wild. And when the moon came out Lawrence of Arabia (Peter Peeler to his friends) would gallop onto the lake yelling, "On to Akabah!" (translation:Where's my peanut butter ?)

WHISTLER

VOC DEVELOPMENTS AT WHISTLER Oct., 1965 John Boyle

Since the publication of the last Journal, much time and effort has been spent on the est­ ablishment of a VOC cabin at Whistler Mountain. Particularly time-consuming was the search for an appropriate cabin site. In February, 1965, the architect-planners for the Whistler area and the Garibaldi Olympic Development Association announced a proposed club cabin area just north of the lift. As this proposal provided land closer to possible parking facilities and to the lift, the search for a site was concentrated in this area. Investigation of this area was undertaken in the early summer, and, since the VOC was the first club in the area, it acquired the choice lot, with a magnificent view of Whistler Mountain. Both a natural downhill ski run from the main ski hill to the cabin site and a trail to the lift terminal can be, and are being, cut. Thus, cars will not have to be moved from the club parking lot being constructed just off the main highway. The water for the cabin will be drawn by gravity flow from a stream which shows promise of year-round flow.

In late spring, the VOC Whistler Cabin Committee was established to act for the Club during the summer - to arrange finances and the land lease, to design the cabin, and to begin construction. It became apparent that the Seymour cabin would have to be sold in order to complete the finances of the Whistler cabin and to preserve club unity. Thus, at the direction of the general membership, the cabin was put on sale in September.

After much deliberation and many revisions, designer Byron Olson has designed a unique ski cabin, excellently fulfilling VOC needs and best suited to the Whistler site. The finished cabin will have about 3800 square feet of floor space and a sleeping capacity of 90 in dormi­ tories separated from the main structure. The lounge will hold 150 people for parties and other large events, but there will be an upper lounge to accommodate smaller numbers. Other features include a large kitchen, a boot-drying room, two washrooms, ski racks, and lockers. The cabin will be heated by two central fireplaces and a hot-air furance. The dormitories will be electrically heated. Rough hand-clearing of the cabin site, August

Surveying of the footing locations, September Designer Byron Olson, directing leveling operations, September

Columns and basement decking raised, October V. O. C. 's new Whistler Cabin at Alta Lake, early November '65 photo by Byron Olson 19

Actual construction of our cabin began in early August, 1965, and enthusiastic work parties of VOC'ers have been up at the site every week-end. The project involves a tremen­ dous amount of work - a road was cleared to the site, trails were cut, a water line installed, and the site levelled. The building of the cabin went on as fast as conditions permitted. As the Journal is being compiled (mid-October), we are approaching the completion of stage one - the closing-in of the cabin and the installation of the essential fittings Our objective is to have a roof over our heads for the annual VOC Hallowe'en Party, and an enclosed shell before the first snows of November reach the cabin.

Because of the large effort put forth by the many people involved in organizing the project, this objective isn't far off. A few people, however, deserve special mention. Charlie Daughney (Ph. D. candidate) led the long and frustrating search for land, and Karl Ricker (Gind 59) has been one of the main driving forces behind the whole undertaking. Byron Olson (Grad 64) has spent many hours designing our cabin and supervising construction at the site every week-end. Jack Stathers (Grad 55) became an advisory member of the Whistler Com- mitee in the early summer and has been of invaluable assistance. These are but a few, the list of names is endless.

Our new cabin promises to be an effective focal point for the wide range of VOC interests. The Garibaldi Park and Whistler Mountain areas provide limitless opportunities for skiing and mountaineering. From the Whistler cabin one has access to the fabulous ski-touring of Sing­ ing Pass, to unlimited climbing and hiking for all ranges of ability, to the (4000 vertical feet of) lift skiing of Whistler Mountain, as well as to challenging locations for ice and rock schools, Thus, our Whistler cabin should meet the needs of the Varsity Outdoor Club for many years to come, and the VOC spirit will know no bounds when surrounded with such magnificent terrain.

WONDEROUS WHISTLER WORKERS Sept. -Nov. 1965 Judy MacKay

The real fun began 'way back in the summer of ' 65 when foraging parties braved the Whistler Wilderness to put in an access road and survey the cabin site. During the days we combatted black flies, mosquitoes, and the smell of "Off" on the next person. Jackie Beauch­ emin became an expert alder-tree javelin-thrower - woe betide anyone who came within range! At nights we slept under the stars, the dark silence broken only by the sounds of Reggie Wilde demanding to know who had tied his pillow up in that pine tree, and by Mary Smith who had nightmares about some tree chasing her into the bushes.

So time progressed and work went on. Dave Higgins, with a competent crew, success­ fully completed his first project in an underdeveloped area, with the installation of a water line to the cabin ... shortly after this milestone event, rodents nibbled holes in the plastic pipe . .. Dave is now in voluntary exile in England.

Autumn brought wind, rain, and a deluge of prospective new members to the site. Sweet young things were entranced on their first visit to the site by the romantic vision of Neal Al- way towing the out-house across the road. New member Jim Fitzpatrick, pointing to a tent, innocently uttered the Unforgiveable Social Blunder - "Is that the boys' tent?" And then there was Bert Macijawskas (F) who hasn't yet recovered from the fact that we don't use Joy Ivory Liquid on our dishes.

Which brings up the subject of FOOD; As one interested observer noted, food progressed from communal stews to something which looked, smelt, and tasted like Gaines Gravy Train, but reportedly wasn't. Desserts were par excellence. Sue Knibbs remembers trying to harden jello in the creek and there was that nice HOT cocoa which Barb W. T. L. N. brewed one night to liven things up. Every morning Karl Ricker's ringing comments could be heard at sunrise - "Definitely NO raisins in the mush!"

The pressures of leadership proved to be too much for some people. Cabin Marshall Les Watson tried to jump from a 10 ft. lamp post, and Treasurer Dave Zuest backed his truck over a poor little whito Volkswagen. Others came up in the world as a result of working at Whistler. Dave Wingate is now an official employee of U. B. C. 's Buildings and Grounds Dept. - seems his duties include driving a truck to Whistler every weekend. Anne Pope. . . being stalked by a Bill Boyd. . . trying to cut corners telephone pole thief 21

Architecturally, the cabin has something for everyone. Les Carter and Sue Jones were finally able to see things eye-to-eye by standing on different floor levels. Designer Byron Olson says he knows the perfect place for the VOC moosehead - on the north wall of "that little whitewashed building ..."

Hallowe'en '65 was something to remember. The cabin sagged and swayed in rhythm to every polka beat. Our band was a swinging combo, with John Boyle on the washbasin - cum - bongos, Jean Strachan on the tin pan, Harry and Jerry Meyerman adding their harmonious rendition of "Hard Day's Night", and Fred Frosh conducting the whole. Prize for the best costume goes to the one depicting the Seymour Cabin as "Whistler's mother". Anyway "fun was had by all" .... wasn't it? ?

Winter came all too soon. We nearly lost Tony Lyttle as he was practising his glissading technique while shaking the roof one night. Cliques began to form among the workers. Peter Peeler's Pack Rats became the "in" group. Qualifications for this group included being able to sing "Jingle Bells" while carrying a 60 lb. bundle of roof shakes.

Well, times have certainly changed since it all began. Our name is now renowned from Horseshoe Bay to Pemberton. "Smilin' Jack" of the Cariboo Cafe in Squamish doesn't smile so much anymore, since droves of VOC'ers, lured by promises of wild paper matches, have descended on his austere establishment. Evidences of VOC invasion can be seen on every accessible gravel pit along the road to Whistler (sand and gravel mix for the 24' high chimney). Many a resident of Alta Lake must have sat up in his bed in horror and amazement as wild screams and howling came issuing down the mountain on a Saturday night. As one old member said, "We're always laughing - it must be hysterics!"

SUMMER ACTIVITIES 1965

MT. HOOD SKIING

May 22, 1965 Jim Whittaker

On Saturday Jean Finley, Dave Hardy and Jim Whittaker drove up to the handsome Timberline Ski Lodge onMt. Hood (11,245') in the rain. After some skiing that afternoon, we set up a camp. The next morning, at 4:30, we set out in the crisp, windy weather. The in­ creasing light revealed not only the fantastic 3000' ski runs of Mt. Hood, but also about ninety members of the Mazamas climbing club marching ahead in column on their annual assault of Mt. Hood. A race to the summit takes place each year on New Year's day to see who can get the first ascent of the year.

About 7:00 a. m. , we were overtaken by clouds rising from the valley, and soon it began to snow and blow. We pressed on toward the top until most of the Mazamas had passed us on their way down. Then we retreated.

That night was spent at Dan Phelp's Portland home and the next day we explored caves in the lava bed below Mt. St. Helens before starting home.

BOWEN ISLAND TRIP July 4, 1965 Duncan Etches

This was a classical "slackers" trip - fifteen people left Vancouver at the early hour of nine in the morning and via B. C. Ferries journeyed to Bowen Island. The objective of this trip was to reach the summit of Mt. Gardner (2700'), the highest point on the island. After our arrival at Bowen Island everyone walked to the base of the mountain except four enter­ prising types who hitched rides. All members of the party reached a knoll (1500') situated 22 past the end of the logging road on the north side. It had been a long walk so we decided to satisfy a healthy mid-day appetite before attempting the summit. Six members of the party (Patty Balmos, Carol Fiske, Marg Latimer, Dave Simmonson, Gordon Soules and Duncan Etches) continued towards the summit while the others headed back to Snug Cove. All six reached the peak after some difficulty was encountered in locating the summit cairn. We came down from the summit on the south side and then hitch-hiked into Snug Cove. All this had taken the better part of the day. At Snug Cove we found the "slack" part of our group swim­ ming and sunbathing, except for Ken Hall, who was not visible - he was hiding from the irate father of the boy whom he hit with his "boomerang". It was a trip worthy of a reunion three weeks later.

A BIKE HIKE TO GALIANO ISLAND July 17-18 Sheila McMeekin Linda Lasalle t Saturday morning, fifteen VOC'ers arrived at the Tsawassen Ferry for the long awaited bike trip. Once the bikes were sorted, fares paid, and packs arranged we cycled towards the ferry; that is, all except Hu Naylor who thought it unnecessary to bring a bicycle.

Our first breakdown occurred as we pedaled down the wharf at Galiano. Hu now had Linda to keep him company on his walk. The rest of the group left for Montague Harbour, where the campsite was located. The cyclists were a little surprised to find the island was not as flat as the leader had promised. However, all managed to arrive at the campsite in one piece. Once settled into our campsite, Reg Wilde appeared and announced he had located a better spot further up the road. So we re-packed and moved on - but Reg decided this wasn't quite good enough either so he found another and another site. Finally, after the fifth move he found isolation, shade, grass, and all a bare campsite could offer. The remainder of the afternoon was spent exploring the beaches, soaking up the sun, and swimming. After dinner, eyeryoae cycled down to the ferry, met five late-comers and returning to camp we built a fire on the beach and sang well into the morning.

After an early breakfast, the group started the long ride up-island to Retreat Cove. We stopped for lunch and a swim along the way. Inspired by the thought of a cold drink aboard the ferry we made it back to the dock in remarkable time.

The trip ended with a swim at Jackie Beauchemin and Mary Smith's apartment. All agreed that riding a bicycle was certainly fun and Galiano Island the perfect place to do it.

MONTE CRISTO AND CADET July 17-18,1965 Peter Macek

Members of the Party: Bert Port (leader), Sue Port, Jim Whittaker, Karl Ricker, Dave Higgins, Ethel Lanski, Sheila McMeekin, Mangal Gautam, Charlie Daughney, Pete Macek.

Following a beautiful drive through the spectacular scenery of the Mountain Loop Highway, we arrived at the partially restored mining camp of Monte Cristo (about 25 miles east of Everett, Washington). On a hot summer day, after playing tourist, we hiked two miles up to Glacier Basin where we established base camp on a grassy flat area surrounded by rugged peaks and dominated, at the head of the cirque, by Monte Cristo itself.

Upon consulting the Climbing Guide to the Cascade Peaks , we expected a six to eight hour climb. The next morning we broke camp at 5 AM and an easy hike took us to the base of the Fitzsimmons' Cabin at Singing Pass in 1924 and Blackcomb Mtn. in background photo by Neal Carter 24 snowfield up which our route led on the west side of the mountain. We roped up and were soon resting in the north col. From there it was a short snow traverse along the back of the moun­ tain, two pitches up rotten rock, and then the summit at 8 a. m. There the Cascade Mountains stretched away on all sides - a sea of 6500'-7500' peaks - from Rainier in the south and Glacier Peak west to Baker on the north.

After an hour's sleep in the sun, Karl and I decided to try for the next mountain north and therefore take advantage of the rest of a perfect day. Dave, Sheila, Karl and I started down and, after a long glissade, not at all intentional, our party split up. A long snow ascent to regain altitude brought us back to the main ridge. Here we missed the easy route to the peak and, instead, ascended by several interesting rock pitches to the summit for its first ascent of the year. By now it was around 2 p. m., and so, descending by the obvious route, we glissaded down the mountain to camp. Our day's experiences convinced us all what a fantas­ tic area this is for climbing; the rock is generally good, the mountains close together, spectacular, and not difficult to reach or climb.

BUTTLE LAKE July 30,1965 Sue Knibbs

An area quickly developing into V. O. C. summer stomping grounds is located amidst the grandeur of Strathcona Park. Although a trip attempting to reach Buttle Lake by crossing Forbidden Plateau was thwarted by forest closure, three V. O. C. er's and four Canadian Youth Hostelers managed to jump the hazard zone and spend the weekend of July 30 canoeing on the beautiful lake.

After a hard night spent sleeping on the road at Miracle Beach, one flat tire, and assorted wrong turns, our keen group finally managed to launch those tipsy vehicles and began to cram in the packs—pretzels and a twenty pound watermelon. Our plan to 'just explore' changed when Western Mines offered to give us a ride to their mine at the end of the lake. We decided we could paddle the twenty-two miles back in one day even though no one could steer. The one and a half hour trip to the mine was invaded by "n" number of Boy Scouts—their shenanigans proved quite entertaining.

It was the red carpet treatment for us. In 95 plus heat we drove the two miles to the mine in a"crummy"(true V. O. C. tradition) and stopped for a pause-that-refreshes at the Legion—non -potent, ever-running, cold, clear water (dry camp it was). We dined on luscious cream crumpets and Kool-aid (not a shade neag V. O. C. 's!) and explored the camp's food facilities. Then up to the mine pit where a cool 32 breeze kept the party hanging around the pit entrance. We toured the ore shacks and asked pertinent? and intelligent? questions about the mine and the company's endeavors to build a townsite in the park. Leader Gordie registered a "no comment" until told he was standing on top of one and a half million dollars—fantastic reaction. We left the site reluctantly (all the miners oogled the girls) and drove back to the canoes.

It was a wobbly two-hour paddle over submerged stumps et al with frightening scrapes, many near capsizings, and much spastic gasping. After a rather hazardous swim and a futile attempt at fishing with Tom Sawyer's legendary safety pin and string, we bunked down.

We left early next morn in order to avoid the usual afternoon blow and, while everyone lamented the lack of proper fishing poles, we recklessly zigzagged our way to lunch. Things were getting rough as we tied up to eat our dry rye-bread and runny cheese. But we continued procrastinating and sunbathing until everyone realized quite a chop had risen; running the wrong way, needless to say. Bucking a head wind and waves a foot and a half high at times (later everyone swore no less than three feet) our soaking wet crews managed to splash and bail our way through the channel. It was a toss up as to who made matters wetter—the waves or the bowsman. After unpacking our sodden gear and plunging in for a final brisk swim, we winged our way to catch a ferry. For those interested, it is a lovely, easy two day jaunt, relatively inexpensive, and a must for traditional summer trips.

Leader-Gordie Soules Group-Sue Parrot, Dave Simenson, Val Ricardo, Nelson Pepper, Jack Hochglaube, and reluctant author SINGING PASS Sept. 5-6/65 Carol Fiske

The scene opens on the rich forest of Fitzsimmons Creek - a fairy-tale area of tall trees, spongemoss, cool ferns and wandering streams. Suddenly the serenity is broken by raucous laughter and into view strides Karl Ricker leading the merry group of John Boyle, Judy Mac- Kay, Linda Lasalle, Carol Fiske and Jim Whittaker headed for Singing Pass via Fitzsimmons and Melody Creeks.

A spot-check later finds the group fanned out and snooping through the trees. Lost a valuable member? No, just the historic Fitzsimmons' Blaze. This is eventually located just west of Melody Creek below the marked trail. Still legible, after thirty-five years of ex­ posure to the forces of nature, are the words "King Solomon Claim", the date 1929, and the signatures of Fitzsimmons' party members.

By early afternoon the troop is treading to the Alpine meadows of Singing Pass (5500') where a joyful reunion is held with an advance party of sixteen hikers. Here again Fitz­ simmons has left a landmark - a disintegrating log cabin. It is now apparent to all that old Fitzsimmons has tried to steal the show, what with his name being tacked onto a creek, tree, cabin, peak, glacier and mountain range. But there are those who are determined not to let him have all the glory and a new touch is added to history - the first traverse of Fitzsimmons' cabin by Linda Lasalle.

After basking in the sun and photographing the beautiful view to the north of Blackcomb Mtn. in the Spearhead Range and the Cheakamus Glacier, Mt. Davidson and Castle Towers to the south, the hikers turn homeward, while Karl's party proceeds to its next destination, Russet Lake (6200') at the base of Fissile Mtn. However, the ascent of the first ridge serves only to bring a rapid decrease in spirits. Massive clouds of smoke are seen billowing forth from the Fitzsimmons Creek Area into which the hikers have headed and where the cars are parked. Although the group spends the next twenty-four hours imagining the worst, it is later learned that the hikers, even though being caught in a bush fire, escape without injury and the cars are untouched.

Evening falls on a small campsite set up on the heather at Russet Lake, a location which gives a splendid view of the southern peaks in the Spearhead Range. The great leader has come supplied with an endless assortment of goodies and several awards of merit. An out­ dated but coveted Playboy goes to Jim for great he-man endurance, (he had skipped over the heather of Singing Pass in bare tootsies). Judy receives a Mad Magazine (no reference to her state of mine intended) in honour of being the first girl to reach camp. Last, but not least, is the delightful, scrumptious addition of beef and vegetables to Linda and Carol's evening meal - yeah Heinz baby-food!

The highlight of the evening's agenda is the moonlit ascent and descent of Fissile (8008') by Jim and Karl in an hour and 55 minutes, and the grand finale, the arranging of five bodies in a space designed for three. Hmmmm - How cozy! (Translation: Ye gods! what agony!) Jim abstains from joining the tent^rowd and, accompanied by Playboy, spends a peaceful night under the stars and below 32 temperature.

Up and away the next day we left the ptarmigan and mountain goats to wander in peaceful solitude through the heather and snow fields. The return route is via the summits of Oboe, Flute and Picolo in the Fitzsimmons Rangg to Whistler Mtn. Lunch-time finds the group atop Whistler Mtn. admiring a spectacular 360 view that encompasses the Tantalus, Ashlu and Spearhead Ranges and the peaks from the area of Mt. Davidson and the Cheakamus Glacier through to Panorama Ridge and the Black Tusk.

The descent from Whistler is not without incident. Failure for some time to locate the marked trail leading to the micro-wave road handicaps the speed of the party that is already behind schedule. Eventually the weary hikers emerge from the trees only two and a half hours late to be greeted by a tragic scene. Stretched out on the dirt is the inert form of Dave Higgins complete with a bouquet of weeds and two tragic mourners. Poor Dave. The long wait was just too much for him.

The unanimous conclusion is that for a memorable hike packed with scenery plus two days of sunshine and a swinging group, just head for Singing Pass. 26

N. B. For a map of Singing Pass area see VOC Journal Vol. VII. It is a three-hour hike without heavy packs from Whistler to Singing Pass.

VOC BOYS IN THE BUSH—SUMMER-1965

In retaliation to last year's article in VOCJ VH, "VOC Girls in the Rockies," we boys would like to explain where we were during the summer and what we were doing. "Walking around on flat ground in the bush" indeed! Hitch-hiking in a helicopter is much more fun than by car don't you think, girls?

Coast Range—Kitimat-Bella Coola Asgar Bentzen

Three months were spent in the Coast Range between Bella Coola and Kitimat, prospect­ ing for Phelps Dodge. A good section of the country between Kimsquit Lake and Coles Lake was covered on foot. Generally it is low country; it is a rare peak that reaches 7000'. Nor is the country particularly steep, so as a result climbers would be ill-advised to consider this as a possible climbing area. For geologists, however, time might be well spent here, as the geology is quite interesting.

Kleena-Kleene to Bralorne Area Alan Whetter

Working for South West Potash, I started the summer off like most others this summer, by surviving a helicopter crash. Going on our first fly camp, the pilot picked up the Hiller with a 600 lb. load on it, including my partner Ron and I, and flew up out of the clearing. The R. P. M. dropped and so did we. By a stroke of good fortune, nothing was hurt except the skids (which aren't supposed to collapse). This took place on the Williams Lake-Bella Coola road, near Kleena Kleene.

After about a month of reconnaisance, Ron and I were shipped out to help build up a new crew for property work on Salal Creek, a northern tributary of the Lillooet River. Here we met Sandy McDonald, sent in from another camp, and from then on all we did was scramble, climb, and play bridge. The claims were all on a big open rotten face between 5000' and 7000'. An added attraction was that above the 4700' level, the whole valley was devoid of bugs (and trees, grass, etc.).

It is a lovely area full of glaciers and little-climbed or unclimbed peaks. George Mur- guly, a UBC engineer, and myself made a first ascent of an 8800' peak on a beautiful day and picked out higher ones only a couple of hours away. I think ACC are the only people who have climbed in there, yet our camp was only half a day's hike from the Bridge Glacier air-strip. It's worth thinking about going back anyway.

Bella Coola Area Glenn Woodsworth

To some, four months of water skiing, climbing, and sightseeing from a helicopter may not be appealing, but to six of us it was the ultimate. This (and a bit of work, of course) was what the Geological Survey of Canada (GSC) offered last summer when mapping the Coast Range between Bella Coola and the Nass River.

The summer started uneventfully on the Outer Islands between Bella Bella and Prince Rupert, with the six of us doing mostly bushwhacking, although Bob Woodsworth and Dick Culbert managed to scrape up one first ascent north of Ocean Falls. However, by mid-summer we were firmly established at Khutzymateen Inlet, north-west of Prince Rupert, on the west edge of one of the least explored areas in the Coast Range.

One foggy night, Dick and Bob, and Tony Ellis and I, were placed 30 miles apart on the Nass-Skeena divide and told that we would be picked up in six days. That night, Dick and Bob climbed 'Pagan Peak' named after our chopper pilot, and two days later after a chilly bivouac, they climbed two more peaks, which vaguely resembled the snow peaks of the Vancouver area. After they had climbed the named peaks Zbura and Hudema, a bushy day in the west fork of the Kitsumkalum R. brought them to the agreed pick-up spot.

While Dick and Bob were walking miles across huge glaciers, Tony and I were encounter­ ing rockier peaks with little glaciation. Wc climbed six peaks, of which the best was the first ascent of Mt. Voshell. Bad weather forced a 3 p. m. start, and by 6 p.m. we had climbed 'Pluton Pk.' and gained the col beyond. Foshell's south-east ridge was a long class 3 and 4 27 climb, spiced up by playing hide and seek with the Spectre of the Brochen. The false summit nearly fooled us in the fog, but by 8 p. m. we were on the true summit, talking to Dick on our "Personal Messenger" portable radio. Descent was* a race against darkness. We stopped just long enough to photograph the sunset over the fantastic crags of 'Dents du Cheval', the highest of which we had climbed. The slog two miles up the glacier to find our camp was an- nother race against the oncoming fog- we barely won.

One month later Tony and I landed at the base of the east ridge of Mt. Atna, at 8800', the highest peak for many miles. The ridge was just a scramble; but owing to the very interest­ ing geology, it was 8 p. m. before we were standing by the cairn of the first ascent party. The view was the best yet-many old and new friends could be seen. Descent by the north snow ridge was an interesting proposition, involving ice-walls, bergschrunds and knife-edge ridges. Finding our packs among the moraine at the bottom was even more interesting; it was 11:30 p. m. before we were in bed.

Two days later Bob and Dick made the first ascent of 'Dalahorn', the "most wanted peak" in the Kitimat area. Meanwhile, Tony and I climbed ' Transmission Tower' (second ascent) above the Kemano-Kitimat road, a rather good rock climb. A week later I made the first ascent of 'Pastoral Peak' , eight miles south of Atna, our last climb in the area.

Unfortunately, it was the last good peak of the summer as bad weather hampered work around Bella Coola. However the Eucott Bay hot-springs and sea-cliffs compensated some­ what. And so the second week of September found us on boats and planes on our way to Van­ couver, after having seen some of the most beautiful parts of B. C.

Serb Creek-Howson Range R. Harrison

The Howson Range, about thirty miles southwest of Smithers, B. C., forms part of the eastern edge of the Coast Range complex. A summer spent working on a molybdenum prop­ erty in these mountains offered little time for climbing but did give us a chance to become familiar with the general area.

The higher peaks, 7000'-9000', have been carved into sharp angular summits by the last advance of the ice, and numerous pocket-glaciers line every basin and cirque above tree- line. The valley-approaches are a tangle of swamps, overgrowth, and slide debris; the relief to the peaks is sharp and extreme.

During the early part of the summer we were able to do some skiing on the snow-covered moraines at the head of the valley. An hour's hike from camp was enough to give us a mile and a half run and a drop of about 1000 vertical feet. Since most of our skiing was done after supper we generally got back to camp just as it was getting dark.

Although impressive to view, the main peak above camp was not a difficult climb-from one particular ridge. Unfortunately, we picked the wrong ridge on our first two attempts. A driving snowstorm forced us to rope up and retreat from the face of one ridge; a rock-filled gulley that threatened to avalanche aborted the second attempt. Good weather, good rock, and an easy scramble gave us the 7000' summit via the westerly side.

The remaining few weeks of work passed slowly and no further climbing opportunities presented themselves. During a few "routine geological traverses" we did manage to get into some of the higher country and enjoy a day of hiking and short rock-pitches. On such occasions rise the ultimate "moment of truth"—when it's quarter after five, you're still walking away from camp, and the helicopter isn't back from town. . . .

Stikine Area Peter Thompson

My summer was great! I learned lots about being a geologist. This is good because that's what I want to be when I grow up.

I worked in the "Stikine", a hell-hole in B. C. , just east of the Alaska Panhandle. The bugs are so bad we couldn't work during the day. It rained so hard we all had to wear hard hats to keep from being knocked unconscious. One day we lost a helicopter—a monster "Stikine-type" blackfly flew through the tail rotor and knocked the chopper out of the air.

I managed to get one first ascent (7400'). It was a "3 cum 4" peak smack in the middle of 28 some of the snarliest straight up and down topography I've ever seen.

Our camp was a luxurious bunch of tents. The food was generally good. We commuted to work in a helicopter.

To sum it all up: my summer was great!

EXPEDITIONS AND CLIMBING NOTES*

BUTE INLET TO PEMBERTON EPIC July 1965 Ann Holden Jane Olson with husbands' help

In the month of February, 1965, my husband came home one evening, a map clutched in his hand and a fanatical explorer's gleam in his eye. "How would you like to go on a 40-mile downhill ski trip?" he said, pointing to a large white area on the map. It sounded like a good idea, so plans were made. A month later it was "20 miles or so up and about 30 down", and by a day before we were to leave it was "5 miles up, 3 down, 4 up, one down", and so on. Really, in the end, I'm not so sure we went down at all!—This should serve as a warning to all wives of mountaineers.

Generally, our plans were to fly to Icewall Lake east of Bute Inlet, to traverse the glaciers which stretch across the Coast Range to Silt Lake at the head of the Lillooet River, and then to walk the sandbars beside the river to a road just north of Pemberton Meadows. The area had been explored from both ends, but to our knowledge, no one had traversed the area.

A company of six was assembled for the trip—Jane and Byron Olson, Jim Craig, Don Poole (Brownie to most), my husband Dennis Holden (rarely known as "Pathfinder") and my­ self (alias "Quail").

We left Vancouver on June 26th and spent that evening in the B. C. Airlines office and lounge near Campbell River, admiring Playboy calendars and various cartoons in the same motif. Next morning we loaded the gear and ourselves into a Beaver and took off. A view of Mt. Wad­ dington and surrounding peaks started the day in an auspicious way. I was told that our pilot Al Eustis was one of the few—perhaps the only—person in B. C. who would fly us into Icewall Lake (3029') and I now saw why. The lake is surrounded on three sides by rock and huge ice- falls. If one flew in on the fourth side so that one "picked the blueberries on the way down" one could land. We made it!

Don and the pilot picked up our food from the wharves at the head of Bute Inlet and dropped the boxes on Filer Glacier. Don then returned to us—the trip has begun.

We soon learned that slide alder and shorti skis in packs are incompatible, however five hours later we were on the snow at the base of the Garrulous Glacier. Five more hours of rock, bush and rope climbing brought us level with the top of the Garrulous icefall and to our first camp on a sloping meadow (5700'). The icefall lived up to its name and entertained us with a symphony, aptly conducted by Byron and culminating in the "10 o'clock express" at which point we were glad to be on this side of the valley.

Next day brought us to the col (7200') by noon and we said goodbye to the last greenery for a week. We traversed the north side of the valley and on skis descended to the Filer Glacier and the airdrop. Forty pounds later we arrived at Boulder Camp (4700' S.W. arm Filer Gla­ cier). Strawberries for supper!

Next day was bright again. Four hours took us down to the main body of the Filer Glacier and across ice and shadow to the first valley running eastward. The map showed a dry valley —we found a glacier and imposing icefall. We climbed this on the rock adjacent to the north edge and came onto a crevassed snowfield, hot and sticky in the late-day sun. We camped at the col (7600')—a rocky outcropping in the snow.

*See glossary for climbing terminology.

30

By this time we had discovered certain things about our companions. Just because Brownie wore a blue & white LIFEGUARD T-shirt didn't mean we were at a swimming party! Actually, it proved quite useful later when sorting slides—progressing shades of greyness told us on which day the pictures were taken. Our intrepid leader, we discovered, had agili­ ties commonly found among mountain goat. Jim was the man with the bright red pack who had a visiting humming bird as a fan. We also possessed a harmonica from which issued sweet melodies at sunset. Byron was in possession of the itchiest beard. Ann and I were later described as "dewy-fresh" by a well-known Vancouver columnist although this was question­ able at the time.

Day four—oh glorious rest day. Falcon Mountain was attempted via the north and east ridges while Ann and I lay in the sun. A more feasible route appears to be the S. W. ridge over steep snow and broken rock. After a day of sun, we strode back to camp as the evening shadows lengthened. We prepared for an early start next day.

After breakfast (Brownie thriftily thought if he burned the mush we wouldn't eat so much), we donned crampons and crossed the steep slope on hard snow. Five hours brought us to "Brownie's Bump" (8650') where now a gleefully erected cairn marks the high point.

Descent of a steep corniced snow slope was safely accomplished and three hours of en­ joyable skiing brought us to our highest camp (8700 ) on the ridge north of the very impressive Compton Neve'.

Toba Glacier (4500') was reached next morning after an interesting two hours of crevasse- dodging on skis. We then ascended along the east side of the glacier onto the second ridge only to find it was the third one we wanted. Down and up again in the hot, hot sun. After a frustrating day we found a perfect campsite-heather ledges, in bloom too - small creek and a lone mountain hemlock - bare feet and good discussion - a panorama and a crescent moon.

Our last day on the glaciers! The route led easily up, across and down the Bishop Gla­ cier (5000'). It was good skiing and in the company of Archbishop Mtn. and others which offer good climbing possibilities; it was most pleasant. The long ascent up the Bishop (to 6000') and down the Lillooet Glaciers to Silt Lake took the rest of the day. It was a long day. We covered twenty miles on skis.

Silt Lake was to us during some of the more difficult parts of the trip, much like Mecca to the Moslems; the only difference being that we didn't bow in its direction five times a day —no prayer mats. We anticipated a pleasant'two day walk on sandbars shaded by green trees down to the car which would be waiting for us at the end of the road. A nasty shock awaited us! The Lillooet River and all its bubbling tributaries were in full and glorious flood - thus no sandbars. The green trees certainly provided shade — full and complete coverage from the ground up. Actually the word "green" doesn't quite adequately describe the full range of that colour which "met the eye". There were the soft pale green cushions of slide alder which tumbled down the hillsides, the large spiked yellow green leaves of devil's club which waved against the dark cedars, the rows of blue green firs which dipped and climbed over every ravine — the variations were unlimited.

We spent three long and tiring days wading through swamp, swatting mosquitoes, cursing devil's club, and climbing up and down ravines. Our skis were quickly left behind after the first thicket of willow and slide alder were encountered. We became expert stream crossers, log walkers, and swamp sloshers.

In the three days we travelled 34 map miles, spending 12 or more hours each day On the "trail". We crashed out of the bush at one in the morning of the fourth day, convinced that we'd done a long and hard battle with an evil presence that lived in the valley. In ten days we had covered 75 map miles!

We stretched out on the road, vaguely concerned that the cars were not in evidence. The next morning, after a breakfast of tea, we set off down the road, located the cars and jubil­ antly drove into Pemberton Meadows. Two breakfasts each later we were convinced that this had been the best trip ever. 31

'FIVE FINGERS' May 8-10,1965 Bob Woodsworth

Seeking to escape the blizzards that seemingly followed VOC everywhere, Jack Bryceland, Tony Ellis and I looked about for some nearby first ascents. The 'Five Fingers', untouched since 1940, and visible from Vancouver, had long reflected the lethargic attitude of the aver­ age Vancouver climber.

Thus, on a clear Saturday morning, we dumped our 12' boat (the Instability H) into Pitt Lake and sputtered 15 miles up to the mouth of Debeck Creek. From here, the peaks located on the Pitt Lake-Coquitlam Divide appeared rather distant. They were! Eight hours later we set up a low, low high camp—1500' lower than we had anticipated.

Next morning frozen boots were bashed onto frozen feet, camp was dismantled, and we slogged the remaining 1500' to an airy campsite at the edge of 'Consolation Lake'. Lassitude reigned supreme until 12 noon when inertia was finally overcome. The 6000', 'Thumb' was quickly ascended; a class 4 descent off the backside led to easy snow, rock, and the summit of the 'Middle Finger', highest of the group. We had made a unanimous decision to forego the 'Forefinger' and headed instead for the unclimbed 'Ring' and 'Little Fingers' to the north. We descended via steep snow-slopes, by-passing an imposing gendarme, "the Fingernail" and arrived at the 'Ring Finger' at 5 p. m. The generally overhanging face proved to have flaws on the southwestern side, and by 6 p. m. cairn building ceremonies were over. Descending by the same route, we traversed on easy snow to the 'Little Finger', a quarter of a mile to the south. By 7 p. m. we had made our second first ascent of the day; an hour later we stag­ gered into camp having glissaded down a few handy avalanche gullies. The usual squeeze of three into a two-man tent, supper and then sleep followed in rapid succession.

The good weather held for the packout the next day and by 3 p.m. we reached our cached boat. An hour of organization was followed by two of prayer as we wallowed our way back down the lake to our car and civilization.

SQUAMISH CHIEF AREA

NEW ROUTES AT SQUAMISH Hamish Mutch

Since the publication of the B. C. Coast Range Guide (Dick Culbert's) earlier this year a number of new routes have been done in the Squamish Chief area, the majority of them by members of VOC. All the established routes in the Squamish area before this year numbered about two dozen. This year, approximately fifteen first ascents were done, an indication of the growing interest in rock climbing. This year's new climbs are summarized below, the order being with respect to the location of the climb, the most northerly ones coming first. A star beside the names of members of first ascent parties indicates that that person is or has been a VOC'er. All references are to Dick Culbert's Coast Range Guide. There is a copy in the VOC library. For a guide to terms and number ratings see glossary.

On 'The Chief

'The Terror' - T. Auger*, H. Mutch* Nov. '65 class 5. 3, A. 2 . . is a direct ascent of the prominent overhang on the right wall of the 'south Gully' below its first pitch. Details: 3 pitches, 2 belays in slings, 8 horizontals, 12 x 3/4-2 1/2 " pitons.

'The Amphitheatre'- G. Woodsworth*, A. Ellis* Oct.'65 class 5.4, A. 2. .. an "aid" route starting at the left hand end of the 'Snake Ledge1 (again, references are all to established names in Dick's guide) Details: 4 pitches, 2 sling belays, 5 knifeblade pitons, 10 other pins up to 1".

'Gringo a Go Go' - H. Mutch*, G. Dunham*, B. McKnight*. Sept.'65 class 5.4,A.2 ... the fact that this route depends on three horendous rope throws indicates it may be sometime before it is repeated. Route consists of nine pitches, using 4 knifeblades, 6 horizontals, 4 x 2-2 1/2" angles.

'Banana Peel' - D. Tate, B. Hagen (Faculty UBC) July '65 class 5.6. . .4 slab pitches situated between 'the Sickle' and 'Slab Alley'. 32

'Northwest Passage' - F. Beckey, L. Patterson (Faculty UBC) H. Mather, A. Bertulis. Grade VI ... this route of major proportions took seven days of climbing to com­ plete, 3 days for the final past for the top. It ascends the 1700' face directly be­ low the south summit about 100 yards left of the Grand Wall route.

'Exasperator Route' - D. Tate, R. Crow, July'65 class 5. 6, A. 1.. . 2 pitches on a crack system 200' right of the Peasants Route. Some 2" angles needed.

'Yosemite Pinnacle' - H. Mutch*, G. Woodsworth*, Mavis McQuaig*, Oct.'65 class 5. 8, A. 1 ... this route up the 5 pitches of classical and difficult chimney on the prominent afoliation, flake to the left of the 'South South Gully', take 6 horizon­ tal pitons and 6x1-1 1/2" angles.

Unnamed - R. Culbert*, Alice Purdey*. Nov. '65 ... consists of 3 pitches of 4th-5th class climbing starting just to the left of the last pitch of 'Crap Crags' near the top of the Chief.

On the PGE Cliff (Malemute)

'The Id' - D. Tate, B. Hagen. Nov. '65 A2... 5 pitches (short) of starting 50 feet right of 'The Crescent' Route requiring a large selection of pitons including knifeblades.

Papoose Cliff 'Hanging Gardens' - J. Coope (Faculty UBC), M. Robertson. Oct.'65 class - unknown ... a bushy crack system approx. 4 leads on the left hand side of the cliff.

Unnamed - F. Beckey, E. Bjornstaad. Oct.'65 fifth and six class ... this route, climb­ ing the entire height of the 400' cliff starts between the ' Hanging Gardens' and the 'Hairpin Crack' and crosses the overhang in the middle of the face. There are approx. a dozen bolts with hangers in place and a large assortment of hardware is necessary.

'Hairpin Crack1 - T. Auger*, D. Tate. Aug. '65 class 5. 4, A. 1 ... 3 long pitches start­ ing with a pretty finger traverse, zigzags up the broken portion of the face 200' right of the above unnamed route of the Papoose Cliff. An assortment of angle and horizontal pitons are necessary.

'Limbo' Route - H. Mutch*, T. Auger*, Oct.'65 A. 2 ... 3 long aid pitches lead from the middle of the second pitch on the 'Pinup Route' climbing up and left on bottoming cracks.

Late Arrivals

Variation on Upper North North Arete - L. Patterson, G. Woodsworth*, April '65 class 5. 6, A. 1 ... about 5 leads ascending prominently chimney system to left of 'Guide' route. 8 assorted pitons.

'Eschelon Route' - R. Culbert? A. Purdey* Nov.'65 low fifth class ... an ill-defined route line ascending up and left from top of cave pitch in the South Gully.

NORTH ARETE—SQUAMISH CHIEF Sept. 1964 Bob Woodsworth

In late September, my brother Glenn, Tony Ellis and I attempted the difficult-looking North Arete.

We climbed several pitches, including a difficult 75' jam crack and steep aid pitch which brought us about half way up the lower part of the Arete. Unfortunately our slow but steady tortoise pace ground to a halt because of the darkness. Our first rappel jammed and we re­ signed ourselves to a cold bivouac on a six-foot ledge. Early next morning, we descended to avoid a Mountain Rescue callout.

We now had an official "grudge climb" so, on VOC "Chief Day" Wade Chernekoff and I decided to make an all-out attack on the North Arete. We left the cars at 4 a. m. and climbed the first two pitches with headlamps. By 11 a. m. we had reached our previous high-point. We Nevada Ranralpalca - Peru South Butress of Mt. Moran, the Tetons, Wy. photos - H. B. Mutch 34 scrambled up easy rock for 300' and rested on a ledge from where we watched Pete Thomp­ son's party ascending the North Gully. Eventually we started a messy-looking aid pitch and two vertical moss climbs. By 4 p. m. with one hour of daylight left, we had arrived just be­ low the two rock pinnacles, the Acrophobes. We traversed to the right and under them to where Caramba Crags, a climb I had done two years before, meets the Arete route. Had two years of climbing made any difference? No! Familiar moves came to mind. I used the same pitons in the same place; the same slings around the same trees. At 5 p. m. we reached the

Acrophobes ledge, and gratefully ate food left by the North Gully party. An hour later we were singing songs in the Kakademon Kloset with multi VOC'ers.

NORTH NORTH ARETE—SQUAMISH CHIEF

Sept. 1964 Bob Woodsworth

Just before the beginning of lectures, Wade Chernekoff and I decided to drive up and

recce the imposing unclimbed northern buttress of the Squamish Chief. We had no intention

of climbing it, just a recce. At noon we scrambled up through the trees to the arete base,

and soon after roped up to begin the first easy chimney-like pitch. An hour of easy bush,

coupled with the odd interesting section, brought us to the first major obstacle. It looked

easy from below, so I started the lead without pitons or hammer. However, after a tree

climb (barf!) the rock got progressively harder. Soon I found myself 75' above Wade without

any protection doing fair class 5. Only 15' to go and then I came to a steep jam crack. The

hesitating step followed by the cautious look down convinced me that it was insane to attempt

the crack without protection. After crawling down 4 0', I belayed Wade up and past me. He

continued up to the crack and with the help of an aid piton, did a very nice lead to the belay

tree. The next pitch involved a 5.6 step across a flake and then we were on easier ground.

As we were now about two-thirds of the way up the arete, with the first major section

conquered, we began to entertain serious thoughts of actually completing the climb. With 4

hours daylight left it was certainly worth a try. Class 4 scrambling brought us to the Arete

crest. Where to go? TTSTKBIGTBC. A 10" wide jam followed by 40' of laybacks and

assorted crawling proved to be the answer - the hardest pitch on the Arete (5. 7), a beautiful

lead by Wade. A short knife-blade aid crack followed by another 60' aid and free pitch brought

us close to the top. But moan, groan, our planned exit route was impossible. The classic

situation of defeat on the last pitch led to preparations for a long series of rappels and thoughts

of a chilly bivouac. But does a climber write up such a climb? No! Suddenly I saw light of

the setting sun streaming through a hole on the Arete. Could this be the answer ? I crawled

down about 30', jammed a 5.6 chimney, spiraled up through the hole and voila! It was in the

bag! A very exposed 5.4 jam crack led to the summit just as dark settled on top of the Chief

—a spectacular end to a classic climb.

GRAND WALL ROUTE—SQUAMISH CHIEF

May, 1965 Tim Auger

At 9 a. m. one Saturday Dan Tate (BCMC) and Tim Auger began up a rope, "fixed" a week

earlier, on "the flake route" at the base of the Grand Wall. A long time had been spent pre­

paring for the long face route of the Chief at Squamish but the final start, a hurried one, was

typified by the fact that I had to return to the ground to get a forgotten piece of equipment.

From the end of the first fixed rope we climbed free the rest of the way to the top of the

Flake, and, hauling our heavy load of gear behind us, ascended another fixed rope up the

steep slabs above. It was on these and other crackless slabs that Cooper and Baldwin had

spent so much of their 28 days bolting, on the first ascent. We had to ascend many of the

bolts, which were in poor condition, by placing "hangers" on them without the usual nuts.

In one spot we placed our one bolt of the climb in a hole which Baldwin and Cooper had made

and which still had a broken drill stuck in it.

The climbing and hauling of packs proved tedious and when we finally reached the cracks

of the vertical portion of the Wall (500') it was midafternoon. As the clear daylight began to

fade we reached the top of the 'Split Pillar', a long classically beautiful crack ascended using

artificial aids and jamming techniques. The cool night was passed here on the tiny ledge. We

bivouacked in slings in the relative comfort provided by an 18" ledge and a warm cover bag.

We even slept.

At 5 a. m. we began climbing again, continuing up about 25' of 'hairy' (at that elevation)

jam cracks, then a long aid pitch culminating in an overhang. Two more long pitches of aid i 35 on bolts on an aesthetically appealing vertical face led to the broken section known as "the flats". Time was draining swiftly away. Dan negotiated a difficult pitch of very poor cracks and then a free traverse. The awkward route line fouled our ropes and I was therefore on a self belay when the piton I was standing on pulled out and disappeard down the cliff (I didn't follow it, I'm writing this article). We made the pitch anyway, and after ascending a 6. 0 overhanging crack, (rating for straight forward aid cracks) for 40', were back in a position to retrieve the equipment left behind on the messy pitch. At 8 p. m. after climbing all day with little food, and no water—we dropped most of it about 40' off the ground—we finished the last pitch of direct aid and layback cracks to the "Dance Platform", a large ledge near the top of the Wall, from which we could exit to the side of the cliff.

The climb, about three-quarter's the height of Ed Cooper's and Jim Baldwin's route had taken two long days in perfect weather and was almost entirely direct aid including seven "hanging" belay stations. The fourteen pitches lead to a vertical height of approximately 1000'.

EDITOR'S NOTE:

Jim Baldwin made the first ascent of the Grand Wall route of the Stawamus Chief with Ed Cooper in 1961. He did much of his early climbing in the Vancouver area with local climbers. Jim, from Prince Rupert, was a student at UBC. After climbing the Grand Wall he began climbing in Yosemite Park in California. Among other great climbs was his first ascent of the 'Dihedral Wall' on El Capitan—one of the longest climbs in Yosemite Valley.

Jim died last year in a fall on the direct route of Washington Column in Yosemite.

CLIMBING ON CAMPUS Dick Culbert

The 1964-64 season saw an unprecedented increase in the number of new routes on camp­ us buildings. Three very successful evenings of "cat burglar" training were held, and thoroughly enjoyed by participants. Newcomers to this sport will soon discover that climbing difficulties make only half of the challenge and a wild collection of stories and events have al­ ready been collected by teams across the years. A looseleaf guidebook to the campus willbe ready by Christmas.

The stone wall northeast of the Law building proved especially popular for getting into climbing shape. The idea is to start at the west end and traverse without touching top or bottom, leaving a stone where you drop off and trying again from beginning next day, moving your stone if you get further. The entire wall to the walk west of the chapel has been done in one go. The beaches also saw some activity. A practice piton route on the old gun placements was successful as a training aid, and rappel practice on the sand bluffs was held. This last brainwave is not recommended, as sand-covered ropes have proved adept at sawing through clothes and sand grains between rope fibres likely do not improve the breaking strength.

A compass course between University and Chancellor Boulevards was organized by Dan Phelps. It had some interesting swamp-offsets, and it is a pity that only eight people turned up for this competition. It was a relatively painless introduction to the art.

In retrospect, the climbing potential of the campus is limited only by the initiative of its climbers. Not counting minor structures such as huts, about seventy buildings on campus are known to have had at least one route put up them, many of them difficult. Nine major struct­ ures (other than residences) appear to have repelled all comers. These are:

Lasserre Building Old Administration Building Largest of Bio-Med Buildings Westbrook Engineering Building South wing Chemistry Building Henry Angus Building South wing Education Building Final blockhouse on Freddy Wood Three stories up on the Hebb -'North East Arete' "Cow" on a hairy layback on a Chapel route UBC Building Climbing photo by Dick Culbert photo by Glenn Woodsworth 37

THE CLEVELAND CAPER Spring 1965 Dick Culbert

In spring Cleveland Lake was released to allow grouting, and abatement of water in the spillway disclosed two continuous pitonable cracks running up from a lip at bottom of the spillway proper. The layout was tempting.

First attempt drew a fair crowd, a little too big as it proved. The plan was to send one party down the spillway on several ropes tied together. They would begin the piton route from the lip. A second party was to work along the canyon walls just above water level, then climb rock to the toe of the dam. A 40' cement wall here would have to be nailed to the spillway lip. If all went well, the main spillway crack climb would have been well under way by this time.

Our canyon party (Alice Purdey, Dan Tate, Dick Culbert) circumvented the pool in good order. A great pipe dumping water from Seymour R. off the canyon rim kept up a steady roar and saturated the darkness. It was a psychologically intimidating gorge below the twin colossi of cement and sound. Next a lead up a small waterfall led to the base of the concrete.

Suddenly the entire battery of lights across the bridge of the dam went on. Beneath the toe, our canyon party was hidden, and when the lights went off Dan began to piton up the wall, assuming the upper party had been apprehended and were comfortable in jail. Asa matter of fact, they were still untangling ropes and were as mystified as we as to why the lights had gone on. Soon Tim Auger pushed off on the big spillway rappel.

Within 15' of the spillway lip, Dan's crack in the concrete ran out, disappointing, but there was no way. He returned and rappelled back to the pools. Suddenly, there was Tim on the dam lip. "Have a prussick line!" he yelled, throwing the end of the rappel rope to us. Spirits rose — then the lights mysteriously went on again. This time it was the cops. Tim slid quickly off the toe and we all dropped to pool level. Climbing back around the walls with the floodlights playing through the canyon waterfall was eerie. On the bridge, meanwhile, mad waterboard official, confused fuzz, and assorted climbers were hashing it out. Ropes were pulled up and the climbers escaped in the confusion. The canyon party passed a water- board truck on a narrow road and also disappeared. For two weeks a flume part way down the spillway was activated. "A bunch of nuts tried to climb that thing," said the maintainence man, "so we keep that water playing on it. Guess they aren't coming back though, we're turning it off tomorrow." The old canyon party re­ turned on the following night.

This time a direct rappel from the bridge to the lip was used. Dick and Dan made the ascent, with Dan leading. Two hanging stations were needed and the constant roar of falling water hampered communication. The crack was gritty, and pitons pulled on three occasions. It was getting on toward five in the morning when the top of the spillway was finally gained, and on the superstructure above we roped for the final part of the ascent. At this point our shouting reached the watchman and the lights went on again. Alice held off the cops on the bridge, and they finished their questions and were gone by the time two tired climbers reached the handrail. A subpoena was threatened, but never arrived. After all Cleveland Lake was already rising once again and climbers would hardly be a permanent problem on the spillway.

ARTHUR'S SEAT (ART'S ASS) Mar. 1965 Alice Purdey

What is a midterm break? Why, a holiday from campus classes when one can go climb­ ing, of course. So last Spring, Dan Tate (BCMC), Dick Culbert, Wayne Henze, Bryce How­ ard, Edwin Bussy and I decided to climb Chimney Rock in Marble Canyon. This done, we headed south to recce both a pinnacle seen on the banks of the Thompson River between Ashcroft and Spence's Bridge, and the extensive rock presented on the East face of Arthur's Seat, just south of Spence's Bridge. Dan, Wayne, and Edwin went off to ex­ amine the pinnacle while Dick, Bryce and I headed over to the rock face.

Eight hours of pure pleasure in the sunshine lay ahead as we approached our anticipated route. Climbing was mainly class three with some class four here and there. For the most part the rock was firm with a wide range of possible routes being offered. The Barrier - a rubble heap on Rubble Creek. Also Barrier Lake, Lesser Garibaldi Lake and Garibaldi Lake photo by Phil Sutherland 39

The descent, however, was not quite as enjoyable. After deciding the location of the sum­ mit was arbitrary, being relatively flat with little hills and bumps, we headed off and down the backside of the mountain.

Thigh-deep soft snow, bushwacking, creek-fording, and darkness all had to be met be­ fore we eventually stumbled onto a road. After a few miles of walking back around the mount­ ain, we finally reached the cars where the other three were waiting. Their pinnacle had proven much too rotten to climb.

Being somewhat bushed, the drive home is a vague memory. However, we did arrive in time to clean up for Tuesday morning classes.

PHYLLIS'S ENGINE Oct. 2-3, 1965. Dick Culbert

Friday night we camped by the cars at Rubble Creek with a party of six, (Jack Bryceland, Bob Cuthbert, Alice Purdey, Dan Tate, Tony Ellis, Dick Culbert). We left shortly after dawn and in two hours were hiking across the Black Tusk Meadows, somewhat amazed at all the garbage cans, hoo-hoos, and new trails scattered about. The weather looked promising.

From Black Tusk Lake we packed over the ridge at the head of Helm Glacier and descend­ ed to Gentian Pass where most of the party left packs for camp. Everybody went over the next ridge that afternoon for a look at the Engine—three made it—hmmm—could prove inter­ esting. Dan and Dick scrambled on up Castle Towers, deciding that this was the biggest hay­ wire mixup yet found in the guidebook. Camp in Gentian Pass was very comfortable—a little too much so when it came to getting under way next morning.

As only Bob and Jack had had the presence of mind to bring crampons, a couple of inter­ esting hours of step cutting evolved before reaching the Engine. Rock and wind were cold, but clear of snow. One switchback on ledges took us half way up from the snow, then a pleasant crack climb led to near the summit ridge. Next came a very unusual chimney passing clear through the structure. There must be an over-hanging block in the east face, for part way through the Engine it is possible to look down between one's legs, past a few chockstones at sunlit slabs far below. Soon we were all at the base of the Smokestack (highest of the summit pinnacles).

With a questionable piton for protection, Dan quickly turned the final crack. Other rope leaders fared less well, Dick pulling out a flake and grabbing a hand-line, Jack falling and breaking a tooth. Lo and behold—no no it can't be! oh yes it is A CAIRN!! !#$%&"§#. No record, just a piton and carabiner and TF scraped in the summit lichen near the cairn. TF ? .. . Tom Fyles had been one of the greatest of the old time climbers. Were people doing class 5.5 free in 1930? Speculation was heavy as we rappelled off and headed back to camp. It continued as we packed back over glaciers and meadows, then down the trail by flashlight.

Actually we were among the few of our group who did not know the story by that time. Friends climbing in the Sky Pilot area that weekend had met the two young mountaineers just out from Switzerland who had made the first ascent of Phyllis's Engine on the previous Thurs­ day—just three days before our visit. That had to be a classic.

TWO TO PERU Spring 1965 H. B. Mutch

On February 2nd, 1965, Gordie Dunham and I left Mexico City to climb the 17, 800' vol­ cano, Popocatepetl, which is fairly accessible by road. From the Paso de Cortes we easily hiked up to a hut at about 12,000'. The next day we climbed on poor snow to a second tiny hut located in a very windblown col at 15, 5000' on the north side of the mountain. The third morn- 40 ing we cramponed very slowly up an easy ice gradient to the impressive view of the crater. This route is called the "Ventorillo Labio Superior", whatever that may mean, and is classed as "Very Dangerous" under the Mexican system. However this is an exaggeration, and the trip is quite easy, and highly recommended to anyone visiting the area. We had intended to climb Ixtaccihuatal, 17,300', during the next two days but after some rationalizations about the weather, we decided to go to Acapulco instead.

Later, in Lima, for last April, Gordie and I ran into John Ricker, an old VOC'er, who immediately agreed to join us for a couple of weeks of climbing in the Andes. On April 27th Gordie and I left Huaras to hike up the Quebrada Ishinca, in the Cordillera Blanca, a trip we had been told took 8 hours. Three days and many storms later we arrived.

On May 2nd we climbed Nevada Ishinca, 18,150', an easy ascent via the west ridge. Later that day John arrived, having left Lima several days after us. After several other efforts and endeavours we decided to attempt the Nevada Ranrapalca, 20,220'. On May 5th we cut steps to a height of 19,000' on the N. E. face. May 7th we rose at 2 a. m. for a second attempt, and initially made good time in our old steps. Six hours of cutting steps in hard ice brought us to the summit plateau, and then the summit at 1 p. m. The weather had been de­ teriorating all day and commenced to snow as we started down. Our steps were immediately covered by the dry snow which poured constantly down the steep face. Dangerous avalanche conditions and total whiteout prevailed during the descent. We were fortunate to find our way to the glacier below without having to bivouac. Continued snow and lack of food saw us head­ ing back down the valley a couple of days later.

We were in the Andes during the rainy/snowy season - it snowed almost half the time we were there. Normally little climbing is done before July. Our ascent of Ranrapalca, 20, 220', is probably the earliest in the year that a peak of over 6,000 metres has ever been climbed in the Cordillera Blanca.

MORE ANDEAN ASCENTS July/Aug. 1965 Notes taken from a letter from John Ricker

In July and August of 1965, Ken Baker, John Ricker, (both old member VOC'ers), Lisle Irwin and Gerald Holdsworth made the following ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru:

Huascaran Norte, 21,800'. This is the second highest peak in Peru. Climbed via the south ridge from Gargarta Col by Ricker, Irwin, Holdsworth, on July 18th.

Nevada Ishinca, 18,150'. Climbed from the south side by a full party on July 29th.

Palcaraju , 20,500'. Climbed via a new route on the south face by a full party on August 3rd.

Pucaranra, 20,100'. Climbed via new route on the south face by Baker and Holdsworth on August 17th.

Atunomontepunco , 17,700'. Climbed via the east ridge by Ricker and Irwin; Baker and Hold­ sworth climbed it via the southwest slopes on August 24th.

THE TETONS July 1965 H. B. Mutch

During the first week of July, Dennis Mehmet, a climber from New York who I had met in Yosemite, and I climbed the S. buttress and S. ridge of Mt. Moran, a 12, 594' peak in Grand Teton National Park. This is a very enjoyable two day rock climb, where all the diffi­ culties are encountered in the first day.

The first two pitches are up a shallow chimney, which leads to an exposed and ever- steepening series of face climbing pitches. Finally we stood on a six-inch ledge, on an 80 face, below an immense overhang. The trick was now to traverse right around the edge of it. We climbed up a thin crack for 30' (5. 7) until a bolt was reached, and then made a 60' pendu­ lum-tension traverse across the smooth wall to the right, to reach a very exposed 2" wide belay ledge. A short aid pitch, and a 100' hand traverse finally brought us around the edge of the overhang and to a good bivouac site. We reached the summit at 1 p. m. on the second day and descended via the C. M. C. route. 41

Glenn Woodsworth "nailing" a crack on the Chief at Squamish photo by Toni Ellis 42

A week later Joe Faint, also from Yosemite, and I climbed the N.face of the Grand Teton, 13,747', one of THE classical alpine routes on the continent. This is a difficult mixed snow and rock route, up the 2000' wall. We left Jenny lake at 1 a. m. to avoid the customary bivouac usually made before or after the climb (some people make both). It was a cold and snowy day and so the fall of rock and ice was light, only one large block of ice falling near us —we were fortunately beneath an overhang at the time. We wore down jackets all day, and reached the summit at 4 p. m. —visibility was zero and it was cold. We descended the stand­ ard Owen-Spalding route and were back at Jenny Lake by 9 p. m.

GLOSSARY

Experience has taught the editors that what fouls up most people in the climbing articles is vocabulary. Here's a bit of help!

Aid. Direct Aid, Artificial Aid, Nailing, Pinning, Tension: ... terms all referring to the use of artificial techniques, pitons driven into cracks, bolts driven into solid rock...

"Angles", "Knifeblades", "Horizontals"-types of pitons.

Arete: ... a steep pronounced ridge.

Bivouac: ... a sort of camp. . .usually a forced night out with only the bare essentials available... like on a teenie ledge.

Col: ... a high pass between two peaks.

Classic: ... aesthetically appealing.

Exposure: ... on a steep climb, "the amount of nothing between you and the first bounce".

Hairy: ... intellectually - hair-raising. ... emotionally - ... gulp!

Jam-cracking, Laybacking: . .. techniques of getting up certain types of fissures in the rocks.

Peel: ... to fall, (ask Peter "Peeler" 1).

Pitch: ... the distance one member of a roped climbing party goes before waiting for the "second" to come up.

Rappel: ... controlled sliding down a doubled rope... to get from an up type place to a down type place.

Recce: ... reconnoitre.

Grade System: .. .the climber's grading of difficulty of a particular move, eg. 1-5 is free climbing (ie. without the aid of pitons etc.) and 5. 9 is the hardest possible move short of artificial aid. Artificial aid climbing is sub-classified into A. 1, A. 2, etc. , but for most purposes is referred to as Class 6.

The following is the generally accepted breakdown of categories 1-5:

Class 1 - Hiking Class 2 - Scrambling involving the use of hands, (seat, knees... etc.) Class 3 - Rope up for beginners. Class 4 - Experienced climbers would rope up Class 5 - Pitons for protection 43

HISTORICAL ARTICLES

V.O.C. GENESIS Art Morton

The current VOC cabin-building activity at Whistler Mountain brings to mind, for the pre- Cambrian members at least, some of the happy memories of a similar occasion. This was the construction of the first VOC cabin forty years ago.

It appears that some of the early log books (pre-journal, that is) have been lost or so securely hidden away that few, if any, of the current members know anything of the origin of the club. Here, then, are some random thoughts and facts to let the second generation crew and their cohorts know what their parents and predecessors did to start the club rolling and to set the pattern of the present day standard of club spirit, joie de vivre, etc. (No, let's leave out the moral angle!). In 1917 a group of 15-10 people (even then there were some girls, bless them) got to­ gether to form a Walking and Picnic Club. The common interest at the time was to spend part of each weekend walking to various beaches and enjoying the great outdoors(and picnics). After a couple of years this group ran out of beaches, and decided to start exploring the mountains in the vast hinterland of the North Shore. In those days it took about half a day to travel by street car, ferry, and on foot to get to the base of the mountains.

Anyway, a cabin was rented on Hollyburn Mountain near the Lodge and the group used this as its headquarters for five or six years. It was in this area that the Club was formal­ ized as the Varsity Outdoor Club. Most of the climbing was restricted to Mts. Hollyburn, Black, and Strachan with an occasional foray to Grouse Mt.

In 1929 this intrepid band, now about 30 strong, decided that the club should have a cabin of its own and after scouting around found a spot on Grouse Mt. was most suitable. It was only an hour and a half s hike up from the end of the Lonsdale Street car line and about twenty minutes away from the Chalet. This cabin site was located in the treed area that is presently bounded by the "Cut" on the west, the Skyline trail on the east and south, and the last stretch of road leading to the chalet on the north. (Got it?)

Growing pains caused the Club to add an addition to the old log cabin in 1929. We'had close to fifty members by that time and it was thought only proper to segregate sexes by pro­ viding separate sleeping quarters for the girls and boys! ?

During this period many of the traditions of the Club were established. Work hikes were a must because of all the construction. The first New Year's Eve party ended in a pillow fight that fizzled out in a trail of feathers all the way to the top of Dam Mountain. The first guitar player discovered that by singing and playing right after dinner he got out of helping with the dishes. Finally, of all things, the Powers-That-Be (the Dean of Women) stated that, in order for the Club to remain in existence, the members had to decide whether they wanted women or liquor in the Club. One or the other but not both. Ho, hum.

The great Dam Downhill Race came into being at this time too. Theoretically, it was a race from the peak of Dam Mt. down to the cabin. It was, however, more of an endurance test than a race. The one who could make the course in the least number of straight line runs, pick himself out of "bathtubs" or off trees quickest and get back to the cabin all in one piece most certainly deserved an extra piece of cake at dinner. Later, when Mr. Ker, an old mem­ ber donated a trophy to encourage better technique, we learned that a skier was supposed to and could, in fact, execute turns. Up until that time it was straight up and straight down!

At this time, too, the great classic climbs were established- Mts. Grouse, Dam, Crown, The Camel, and even Seymour. Mt. Baker was breached in 1930 with a party of sixteen climbing from Kuishan Cabin to the Col before turning back on account of a whiteout. A big expedition via steamer to Britannia Mine was undertaken in 1932. The party made its way from there to the Sawtooth Range and climbed Sky Pilot and Mt. Shear in one day.

The first Inter-Collegiate Ski Meet was held in 1934 on Grouse with U. B. C. hosting the University of Washington and the College of Puget Sound. Boy, did we tigers skunk them 1

After exams in the spring of 1934, Mr. Ker sponsored the first extended ski trip for eight ardent skiers. We travelled to Baker for a week and thence to the Windermere Valley where 44 we took Mt. Nelson and other assorted peaks apart in our enthusiastic way.

Around 1944, the owner of the parcel of land on which the cabin was "squatting" discover­ ed this fact and started charging rent. Imagine! Anyway, this was enough incentive, along with the fact that the mountain was now literally crawling with people and cabins, to cause the then active group to look elsewhere for a site which could be more permanent and could accom­ modate the ever increasing number of new members. Thus the Seymour Cabin in 1946.

So again the wheel has turned full circle. Another cabin is being built and the old pioneer spirt of VOC is being revived. There is no doubt that this sort of activity, together with climbs and ski trips, gives the active members a sense of belonging and of participating in a very real way. It's nice for us old timers to watch the second generation (and there are lots of them now) getting as much enjoyment out of it all as we did way back when. It's good to realize that the present active group is just as friendly, just as zany, and just as good-to-be- with as the originators of VOC. The Club is in good hands. Good luck to you!

SOME NOTES ON THE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND OF THE ALTA LAKE - FITZSIMMONS CREEK AREA Neal M. Carter

When I was asked if I would contribute to this year's Journal some notes on the above sub­ ject, I consented with the stipulation I might be allowed to limit them to the alpine aspects of the area. A complete historical background should commence with what is known of early journeys by native Indians to and fro across the height of land at Alta Lake (2090') between their objectives Squamish or Pemberton. Next should come an account of explorations of the area by early trappers and prospectors, then of the activities resulting from early homestead- ing, logging, mining, and the surveys requisite for these. And in 1913 came the P. G. E. Rail­ way. Such background history is available in various books which however have little to re­ late about the alpine aspects surrounding Alta Lake and its vicinity.

It would be difficult to trace records of what ridges and peaks in this area were explored in the course of early hunting, trapping and prospecting, or through curiosity of the early white settlers as to what lay beyond the skylines seen from their main valley in which Alpha, Nita, Alta, and Green Lakes lie. Alpine features beyond those skylines were pretty sketchy on maps, and few had names.

Shortly after the turn of the century a prospector, Bob Fitzsimmons, settled in the Alta Lake area. Some time around 1912 after cutting a trail up Fitzsimmons Creek he built a log cabin in Singing Pass for proving his mining claims in the vicinity of the first mountain to the east, officially named Fissile Mtn. only recently. During his prospecting he may have climbed this and other summits in the range now named after him, which extends from Whist­ ler Mtn. to Cheakamus Mtn., and may have examined some other summits in the vicinity; if so, I have not been able to trace or identify his climbing achievements.

Hence it may be considered that alpine activity for its own sake began in this area when Alex Philip and his wife, Myrtle, in 1918 opened Rainbow Lodge beside the railway at the northwest corner of Alta Lake after settling in the vicinity some six years earlier. They or­ ganized climbs of Whistler Mtn. (7118') and Mt. Sproatt (6010') for groups of guests at the Lodge, and of Rainbow Mtn. (7570') for the more ambitious guests. The two latter mountains are west of the railway. In the summer of 1923 I was on a waterpower survey of the main valley from Brandywine Falls to the outlet of Green Lake, also of Cheakamus Lake to which we cut the first packhorse trail. While at Cheakamus Lake I was given a day to climb up to­ wards Singing Pass to sketch the true shape of the lake; by hurrying I was able to indulge my­ self in a hike along the ridge to the top of Whistler, where I saw records of numerous parties who had climbed it from Alta Lake.

During the three months I was on that survey I had no other opportunity for climbing though our work took us quite a distance up the valley beyond the head of Cheakamus Lake and some distance up Fitzsimmons and Wedge Creeks. But from the top of Whistler and elsewhere I got a much closer view of interest-appearing peaks I had longingly viewed from the top of Castle Towers, the Black Tusk and Helm Peak in 1920. While our survey camp was near Rainbow Lodge Alex Philip told me he thought Wedge Mtn. (then already named) was higher than Mt. Garibaldi, and he was pretty certain it was unclimbed. Garibaldi Park at that time did not extend further north than Cheakamus Lake and the upper Cheakamus River flowing into it, and Mt. Garibaldi was the highest peak in the Park. 45

From Alta Lake I wrote to Don and Phyl Munday of the ACC telling them of the mountain­ eering possibilities around Alta Lake, so in that summer of 1923 they came up and made the first recorded ascent of and named Overlord Mtn. (8598', highest in the now Fitzsimmons Range) and Blackcomb Peak (7995', westernmost of the now Spearhead Range). Survey work prevented my accompanying them, but they were enthusiastic about what they climbed and other peaks they saw.

So when our survey was over by Labour Day 1923, I persuaded Charles Townsend, a UBC '25 classmate, to come with me on a two-week trip to climb Wedge and some of the other peaks. We left Parkhurst Station on Green Lake September 9th and established camp at tim­ berline on the ridge just west of Wedge, of which we made the first recorded ascent on Sept. 10th. It was a cloudless day, during which we were startled by a total eclipse of the sun while crossing what we then dubbed "Eclipse Glacier"; but we were even more startled by my aner­ oid reading 9600' at the top of Wedge (the later official height 9484' still makes it the highest peak in the present Garibaldi Park). Exciting views included high peaks with many glaciers in the two ranges (Spearhead and Fitzsimmons) to the south, but a sharp peak two miles east led us to spend the next day traversing around the south face of Wedge to camp at timberline below this peak, which we cairned on September 12th, naming it Mt. James Turner (8913') after a deceased pioneer Methodist pastor in southern B. C. The 13th was spent in returning to our Wedge Mtn.camp, near which as we were leaving to return to Alta Lake on the 14th we found an old empty liquor bottle indicating someone had been at least as far as timberline on this ridge leading to Wedge Mtn.

After spending a night at Rainbow Lodge and reprovisioning, on the 15th we went up the Fitzsimmons Creek trail to camp in Fitzsimmons' apparently abandoned cabin in Singing Pass, from which on the 16th we made the second recorded ascent of Overlord and the first of Whirl­ wind Peak (7972') which we so named from the very evident effects of a "twister" on the trees near the cabin. On the 17th (still in cloudless weather) we climbed Whistler. On the 18th (mostly in cloud) we groped our way past Whirlwind Peak to two peaks we had previously seen beyond it, and made the first recorded ascent of the nearer one, which because of its steep rotten rock and the foul weather we called Diavolo Peak (8400'). A brief glimpse of the nearby further peak of about the same height did not tempt us. The following day we awoke to snow falling at the cabin so left for home.

I recommended to the BCMC it might well hold its 1924 summer camp in Singing Pass, and found myself placed in charge of it. Eighteen persons including eight ladies and a cook participated. We spent August llth-19th climbing from our tent camp near the cabin. Refuse Pinnacle, Overlord Mtn. , Fissile Peak, Whirlwind Peak, Whistler Mtn. , and Diavolo Peak were reclimbed. On the 15th a group made the first recorded ascent of the peak beyond Dia­ volo, naming it Angelo Peak (8400') and on the 17th we climbed and named Fitzsimmons Peak (8500'), apparently another first ascent. Plans to cairn the most easterly peak in the range (Cheakamus Mtn. , 8490') were thwarted by bad weather on our last available climbing day.

During these 1923-24 climbs I took readings and photos for making a map of the northern alpine area to join a map of the Garibaldi Lake region I had prepared after climbs there in 1920 and 1922, and recommended the northern alpine area including at least Wedge and Turner be added to Garibaldi Park.

In 1928 a Provincial phototopographic survey of Garibaldi Park included this northern area almost to Mt. Currie above Pemberton, and it became part of the Park. In this added area the surveyors occupied some 25 triangulation or photo stations on peaks and high ridges from above Cheakamus Lake north to a high ridge 2 miles north of Mt. James Turner, involving among other climbs the first recorded ascents of what were named by the Park Board Mt. Tremor (8840', highest in the Spearhead Range), also Mts. Trorey (8075') and Pattison(8147') in that range. Mt. Weart (9300', second highest peak in the Park) received its name, and I was informed that an 8300' peak 2-1/2 miles north of Turner had been officially named after myself though it was not climbed. It has since been climbed, but I haven't (yet) done so. The old-established local name Whistler Mtn. officially became London Mtn. from the London mining claims on it, but after representations by a committee from VOC and other clubs the name Whistler Mtn. was officially restored a few months ago. This Government survey in 1928 resulted in hundreds of excellent 4-1/2 by 6 inch photos and a large detailed map of the extended Garibaldi Park. Many of the photos are scenically interesting, some having been taken from high points probably not visited since. Copies can be purchased from the Geo­ graphic Division, B.C. Department of Lands and Forests, Victoria. 46

Following the 1928 survey and availability of a detailed map, private parties made first recorded ascents of various additional peaks north of Cheakamus Lake, including Mt. Weart in 1932, Mt. Sir Richard (8700') on skis in 1937, Mt. Neal in 1949, and Cheakamus Mtn. in 1950, as well as repeated climbs of others, exploration of new routes and minor summits.

What might be termed the final exploratory phase of the Fitzsimmons Creek area mount­ ains took place in 1964 when your VOC expedition made its ski "tour de force" so well re­ counted in your 1964 Journal, thus tidying up the remaining first ascents and nomenclature in the Spearhead and Fitzsimmons Ranges, and preparing the way for the undoubtedly many ski and summer climbing excursions that will be made as a result of the new developments taking place on the slopes of Whistler Mtn.

Two days before writing these notes I took my wife up your excellent new trail to Cheaka­ mus Lake to show her the old survey campsite which I had not seen since 1923. In several places I noticed your trail took advantage of the gaps I helped crosscut saw out of fallen logs when our survey made the first packhorse trail to the lake. In the evening we visited the Philips in their attractive home above the west shore of Alta Lake to renew our acquaintance after 42 years. Alex, now 84 years old, vividly recounted some of their early experiences, a few of which are woven into the three books he wrote. 47

SPECIAL PROJECTS

CONSERVATION COMMITTEE Sue Knibbs Barb Mioduzewska

Under the leadership of Dan Phelps the Conservation Committee continued to grow and ex­ pand over the last year (see pg. 61 VOCJ VET). The main concerns were, quite naturally, Gari­ baldi Park and the forthcoming Parks Act. It was decided to present a brief reflecting the opinions and proposals of VOC to Lands and Forest Minister Kiernan. Much time and effort was spent studying the varied proposals forwarded for new Parks Legislation so that, by the end of November, a VOC endorsed brief was presented to the government. The end result which caused a lot of controversy throughout the club seemed to create little impact on Kier­ nan. However he did speak to the Alpine Club on this topic.

In January, under the new leadership of Ian Stirling, the committee began working on a highly successful series of talks headed "Provincial Parks-Preservation or Exploitation?" Dr. Danner started the ball rolling in February with a hard hitting speech, to be followed by an excellent panel discussion including Dr. Ian McTaggart-Cowan, Mr. Buckland, a Forester from the Institute of Technology, Mr. Campbell of Western Mines and Dr. Pierce of the Econ­ omics Department. A capacity crowd enjoyed this endeavor to the full.

Throughout the year the committee was instrumental in beginning the groundwork for a Federation of Outdoor Clubs in the Lower Mainland. Though co-operation was on a low level, several combined trips were held throughout the year. Another achievement, perhaps the result of the brief to the government, was a new, more enlightened Parks Act. The threat of a micro-wave tower on top of the Black Tusk quickly evaporated under-cover of a large uproar led by VOC.

This following year should prove to be as promising as last year. Co-Chairmen Gordie Soules and Alan Coombes are spearheading research into the development and consequent usage of Garibaldi Park, as well as other vital areas.

A series of combined club trips culminated this highly successful year. Barb Mioduzew­ ska led twenty-five enthusiastic VOC'ers, CYH'ers, and ACC'ers into Frosty Peak and Light­ ning Lakes in the Manning Park area. Besides climbing, the group spent time looking into the proposed commercial development of Lightning Lakes. Under Gordie Soules, seven VOC and CYH types canoed their way down Buttle Lake after visiting Western Mines' controversial op­ eration at the south end. A comprehensive report was made on the deplorable condition of the lake. Besides work hikes on the new Cheakamus Lake Trail, various committee members travelled up Brohm Ridge, Cathedral Lakes, and Liumption Peak and Ridge.

Hats off to Dan, Ian, Gordie, Alan and the many others who kept this newer addition to the club alive and interesting-if not controversial and thinking.

FITZSIMMONS - SPEARHEAD NOMENCLATURE Bert Port

Thanks to the relentless energy of Karl Ricker, most of the names proposed'for the then unnamed geographical features encountered on the 1964 VOC Fitzsimmons - Horseshoe Ex­ pedition (see map and article Journal VH) and those noted below have been accepted by the Can­ adian Permanent Committee on Geographical Names. As was to be expected some were re­ jected and others were added. It is gratifying to note that the government has agreed to change the name of London Mountain to Whistler Mountain which, as everybody knows, has always been its name anyway!

Most names, on the Fitzsimmons - Spearhead map (VOC J. , Vol VH) were accepted. A few had to be changed; other nomenclature additions not given on the map are listed below.

Official changes:

Rainbow Creek changed to Horstman Creek Rainbow Glacier changed to Horstman Glacier Mt. Decker changed to Decker Mountain « Pattison Glacier changed to Tremor Glacier 48

Tremor Glacier changed to Shudder Glacier Shudder Peak changed to Shudder Mountain Miner Lakes changed to Adit Lakes Millar Creek (above Nita Lake) changed to Whistler Creek

Official Additions:

Saucer Lake—near snout of Spearhead Glacier Saucer Creek—flows East to Wedge Creek Phalanx Glacier—north of The Phalanx Billygoat Lakes—headwaters of Billygoat Creek Detour Creek—flows south-east into Cheakamus River Benvolio Glacier—West of Mount Benvolio Refuse Creek—flows South into Cheakamus River Adit Creek—flows East into Russet Creek Picolo, Harmony, Flute, Oboe Creeks—flow North into Fitzsimmons Creek Whistler Glacier—East of Whistler Mountain

Also approved but not on the above mentioned sketch are:

The Lecture Cutters (peaks)—North of Mt. Sir Richard Ubyssey Glacier—West of Mt. Sir Richard Veeocee Mountain—West of Mt. Sir Richard

MOUNTAIN ACCESS COMMITTEE Bert Port

Of the many wonders detailed by early adventurers on the Pacific Northwest Coast perhaps the greatest awe was reserved for the rain forest, combining as it does the hardiness of mountain trees and the succulence of tropical vegetation.

For weekend hikers wanting to visit alpine areas this factor makes exploratory sallies discouragingly difficult. A great deal of effort is required to establish any sort of route and even greater effort to maintain a trail in usable condition.

In recent years sporadic efforts have been made by individuals and clubs to reduce the effort involved in "bushwhacking" by clearing and marking some trails. However, since no overall plan existed the work, when it progressed, progressed unevenly.

It had long been felt that communication among the Vancouver clubs was desirable as it could provide a stimulus for trail clearing and that such a communication could avoid duplica­ tion of effort. Since the work of trail building would fall on volunteer labour drawn from the Club's general membership wasted effort could not be allowed. Accordingly, at the invitation of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club in October 1963 two representatives from each of the Alpine Club of Canada, Canadian Youth Hostels, Varsity Outdoor Club, Northshore Hikers, British Columbia Forest Service, British Columbia Coast Guide and of course the British Col­ umbia Mountaineering Club met to consider the possibility of establishing such communication within a committee and to determine what aims such a committee might justifiably devise. At this initial meeting the name "Mountain Access Committee" was decided upon and its aim was to be the promotion of access to alpine or mountainous areas through:

1. recording and maintaining in a central registry descriptions of mountain access routes.

2. co-ordinating the route finding and trail building of participating clubs.

The committee was to concern itself generally with the mountains bordering Howe Sound and the Fraser Valley as far east as Hope.

During the following monthly meetings decisions were reached on trail and route priorities, marking standards and marking materials. Trails were to be marked with four inch squares of tempered aluminum, placed so that two would always be visible, and with underbrush clear­ ed to facilitate travel.

It soon became apparent that substantial economies could be effected by the bulk purchases 49 of material. Consequently the Clubs alone deposited a total of $200 with the Committee for this purpose. Through the efforts of several individuals and firms cost was reduced even further. In the summer of 1964 the Club received their first materials (nails, aluminum and tape). Work could now begin on the thirty-six trails and routes given top priority by the Com­ mittee.

It was apparent that a more ambitious programme would constitute a disproportionate financial burden to the small number of Clubs concerned. It was as a result of a limited pub­ lic appeal and application to the Federal Physical Fitness and Sport Directorate, $400 was ob­ tained in early 1965. From this sum the original Clubs were reimbursed. More materials were purchased and in the Fall of 1965 some hand tools were purchased.

In May 1965 a limited number of a "Preliminary Report" detailing a dozen new routes and trails was published by the office and distributed to the Clubs.

The Committee seems well established now as it enters its third year. Lines of commun­ ication have been set up with the various Government Departments for assistance and advice. It is anticipated that a further $1100 will be forthcoming in the next two and one half years to upgrade some of the present routes and to start work on the numerous trails which will be re­ quired in the future. In the spring of 1966 approximately one thousand copies of an expanded and revised Trail Guide are to be made available from the same source as the Preliminary Report.

A great deal remains to be done by this voluntary club labour group but with a growing population and a growing awareness of the value of recreation (even swinging an axe can be recreation) quick and easy access to alpine areas should be made available to everyone in the Lower Mainland.

if photo by Bill Tupper

THE WHISTLER CABIN We'll find that contact lens if we have to take this whole building down!! ! ji