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Home , Bali Sea, Kuta, Seminyak, Ubud

traveller’s guide

South coast

Once considered In recent decades the the desert backpacker and budget badlands, the relatively traveller zone of has dry peninsula south of the sprawled up the coast into airport is now ’s . Further west, premier haven for sun- and Canggu now worshippers. is offer hundreds of designer where many of the villas and stylish retreats at island’s most exclusive very competitive prices, Bali resorts are. Visitors are such as IZE Seminyak able to get their culture (00 62 36184 66999; fix with sunset trips to the ize-seminyak.com) which Uluwatu is famed for (00 62 8123815180; bali breathtakingly beautiful has rooms starting at just one of the best waves on surftours.com) can Uluwatu cliff-top temple. US$85 (£57), room only. our planet, there are arrange day trips or multi- The great stretch of All of these areas access world-class surf-spots on day “surfaris” anywhere beach at has its world-class beaches, and Bukit (Belangan, Padang on the island from US$65 own share of prestigious even much-maligned Padang, Balangan, Green (£42)pp. Surfboard rental properties and is perfectly palm-fringed Kuta (right) Bowl) and on the main is an extra US$10 (£6.40), placed for the airport and surprises visitors used to island itself (Kuta Reef, and accompanying non- for trips to the Bukit the high-rise concrete Legian, Canggu, Keramas, surfers can tag along for The Balinese believe heaven looks much like their island. Peninsula and mainland. jungles of the Med. Medewi). Bali Surf Tours US$10 (£6.40)pp. With blissful beaches, lush mountains and beautiful architecture, they could well be right. By Mark Eveleigh Wild west

he haunting refrain of a temple prayer Bali’s “wild west” is a three-hour drive from arrange customised treks, call echoes through the coconut �� miles Bali blessed with mile Bali’s international airport. and even camping expedi- Menjangan Island palms as a tropical sun burnishes the upon mile of deserted Even more surprising is the tions. The resort has lovely rim of a towering volcano. Women volcanic black sand fact that it is home to beachfront bungalows Tclad in vibrant sarongs and kebaya blouses The Menjangan beaches, jungles, paddies some of the most prolific from US$228 (£152) a hurry along the street with offerings perched Pemuteran Lovina and a timeless island life- wildlife in South-east , night, room only. high on their heads. style that, even today, is including four types of Medewi surf point is Bali has long been renowned for its uniquely Bali Barat NP rarely seen by outsiders. deer, two species of Bali’s longest wave and colourful culture. Unusual among the world’s BALI West Bali National monkey and countless this little beach strip is island dwellers, the Balinese traditionally Medewi Agung Park, which covers most birds such as hornbills and gaining a reputation as a Sayan volcano turned their backs on the sea, choosing of the western end of the the extremely rare Bali quiet and restful retreat ­instead to look upwards, towards the peaks of Canggu island, remains a mystery starling (right). for surfers – and, their sacred mountains. The sea was consid- Hill start: Bali’s even to many native There’s virtually no increasingly, yoga ered to be unclean and unholy, so that even Seminyak Kuta verdant paddy fields islanders. It is almost tourism infrastructure in aficionados – people Jimbaran the fishermen chose to build their homes Nusa Dua istockphoto; GTW/imageBROKER/REX inconceivable that an area the park but Puri Dajuma who crave something safely inland. Because of this the first tourists J AVA Uluwatu of virtually unexplored Beach Eco-resort (00 more fulfilling than their Indian PENID A to arrive discovered a paradise where endless Bukit Peninsula jungle, half the size of the 62 811 388709; dajuma regular hangouts around beachfront land was available, and very cheap. Isle of Wight, could lie just .com), near Medewi, can Kuta and Ubud. For many modern visitors, a holiday on the island still revolves around glorious beaches. It many of the outlying rural and wilder- is rare to find a holidaymaker, however, who is ness areas of this incredibly diverse island are not also keen to travel beyond the beaches to often overlooked by visitors. experience day-to-day life on Indonesia’s only Reaching Bali from the UK has always North coast majority Hindu island. ­required at least one change of planes, but this The cascading valleys and terraced paddy summer Emirates (0344 800 2777; emirates fields around Ubud are Bali’s cultural heart- .com) added a new one-stop option, connect- While surfers gather the fishing town of Lovina lands. Ubud became a haven for European ing six UK airports to the island, via Dubai along the south in jukung outriggers, artists, writers and vagabond bohemians who – Heathrow, Gatwick, Manchester, Birming- coast, Bali’s north shore is keen to catch sight of were lured by a picture-perfect landscape, ham, Glasgow and Newcastle. paradise for divers (right). leaping pods of up to vibrant ceremonies and unspoiled rural life Cox & Kings (0207 873 5000; coxandkings Amed lies in unexpectedly 100 dolphins, but back in the 1930s. These days countless bules .co.uk) offers a 14-day private tour combining arid cactus-country in the Menjangan Island is often (foreigners) come to live the Bali dream in a the best of Bali & , priced from £2,595 per rain-shadow at the foot of described as Bali’s dive- karmic boomtown that has become one of the person including flights, transfers and excur- Agung volcano. But the spot par excellence. The world’s capitals for yoga and healthy living. sions, B&B and some other meals. crystalline clarity of its Menjangan resort When Made Gunarta co-founded the Yoga Asia specialist Backyard Travel (00 800 waters guarantees world- (00 62 362 94700; Barn (00 62 3619 71407; theyogabarn.com) 22259273; backyardtravel.com) has an action- Central Bali class reef and wreck dives. themenjangan.com) in 2006 it was the only venue in Ubud built packed 10-day guided tour around Bali, with There are several offers dive tours around specifically for yoga. Now Made’s hometown half-board accommodation, starting at £469 respected dive schools the island from US$145pp boasts dozens of retreats and hosts the Bali per person, excluding flights. And Intrepid Ubud, spiritual range of customised day Soul-searchers also Sayan, and Mandapa, a trekking, quad-biking and here including Ecodive Bali (£97), a price that Spirit Festival (00 62 3619 70992; balispirit Travel (0808 274 5111; intrepidtravel.com) heartland of the trips such as a cultural visit flock here onEat, Pray Ritz-Carlton Reserve horse riding. Ayung River (00 62 363 23482; eco includes equipment hire festival.com) every April. ­offers a nine-day Beautiful Bali trip starting island of the gods, is a to Ubud that takes in the Love-style yoga and (see “Where to stay”, Rafting (00 62 851 01 divebali.com) and even a and guides. “They say that the name Ubud came from from £585 per person, including accommoda- popular day trip. It lies Monkey Forest, Ubud health escapes. Among overleaf, for more on the 506060; ayungriver free-diving and yoga Budget diving day trips an old Balinese word meaning ‘place of heal- tion, some meals, transport and a local guide. across a range of dramatic Palace, Taman Ayun the numerous high-end latter two). rafting.net) is a local centre, Apnea Bali (00 62 can cost as little as ing’,” Made says, “That’s really what Ubud has Flights are extra. jungle valleys and paddy (Royal Temple) and sunset properties offering detox In recent years the outfit offering numerous 822661 25814; apneabali 500,000 Indonesian always been.” The Balinese believe that when they die, fields, but even its bustling at . From retreats and treatments dramatic landscape adventurous activies. .com), where you can learn rupiahs (£24) if you ask Indonesia is the world’s biggest island heaven will look very much like their island. town-centre captivates 450,000 rupiahs (£21) for are Fivelements Resort around Ubud has also Basic rafting packages to dive unencumbered with around the dive-shops in ­nation, with an estimated 13,465 islands. Bali, Take time to explore beyond the usual tourist visitors. Bali to Bali Tours up to three people, with (00 62 3614 69260; attracted adrenalin start at US$39pp (£26) breathing apparatus. Pemuteran village (near which has a total area smaller than Devon, is trail and you’re sure to come to the conclusion (00 62 812 395 6828; an English-speaking five lements.org); Four junkies with everything for a minimum of two Countless visitors set the jetty from where boats the most popular among tourists, although that they’re very probably right. balitobali.com) runs a driver/guide. Seasons Resort Bali at from rafting to cycling, people taking part. out every morning from ­depart for Menjangan).

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