a CONTENTS

4 Love life in Yasuní

5 Purpose of this guide

6 Yasuní Biosphere Reserve

10 Yasuní National Park

14 Waorani territory and peoples in isolation

18 The Yasuní-ITT Initiative

22 Tourism in Yasuní

30 Where to go b 1 GALÁPAGOS 1 GALÁPAGOS NATIONAL PARK 2 GALÁPAGOS MARINE RESERVE 16 PROTECTED AREAS PACIFIC COAST 2 18 OF ECUADOR 3 GALERA SAN FRANCISCO MARINE RESERVE 17 Esmeraldas 4 MACHALILLA NATIONAL PARK 1 22 5 MANGLARES CHURUTE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 3 MACHE CHINDUL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Pto. Baquerizo 20 Tulcán 6 Moreno 23 7 SANTA CLARA ISLAND WILDLIFE REFUGE 8 8 MUISNE RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE 6 Ibarra 9 EL SALADO MANGROVES FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE 41 10 SANTA ELENA PENINSULA MARINE FAUNA WILDLIFE Nueva Loja o REFUGE 0 24 11 EL MORRO MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE 36 12 PACOCHE COASTAL MARINE WILDLIFE REFUGE Quito 35 13 PARQUE LAGO NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 14 ARENILLAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Sto. Domingo 25 37 N 42 15 ISLA CORAZÓN AND FRAGATAS WILDLIFE REFUGE Francisco W E 27 26 de Orellana 16 CAYAPAS MATAJE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 15 29 28 17 ESMERALDAS RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE S REFUGE 18 LA CHIQUITA WILDLIFE REFUGE Latacunga Tena 12 Portoviejo 19 ISLA SANTAY AND ISLA DEL GALLO NATIONAL RECREATION 30 38 AREA 20 PAMBILAR WILDLIFE RESERVE Ambato 21 LOS SAMANES NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 31 4 Puyo

Guaranda ANDES Riobamba 39 22 EL ÁNGEL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Babahoyo 23 COTACACHI CAYAPAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 21 24 PULULAHUA GEOBOTANICAL RESERVE 10 13 19 25 PASOCHOA WILDLIFE RESERVE Santa Elena 9 Guayaquil 26 ANTISANA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

27 EL BOLICHE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 5 Macas 28 COTOPAXI NATIONAL PARK 11 29 LOS ILINIZAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 32 30 LLANGANATES NATIONAL PARK Pacific Ocean Azogues 31 CHIMBORAZO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE 32 CAJAS NATIONAL PARK 7 Cuenca 33 PODOCARPUS NATIONAL PARK Machala 34 YACURI NATIONAL PARK Biosphere Reserves and Intangible Zones 44 14 43 AMAZON 1 35 CUYABENO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE 36 CAYAMBE COCA NATIONAL PARK 40 3 6 37 LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 2 38 YASUNÍ NATIONAL PARK 1. Galápagos Biosphere Reserve 5 Loja Zamora 39 SANGAY NATIONAL PARK 2. Yasuní Biosphere Reserve 33 40 EL ZARZA WILDLIFE REFUGE 3. Sumaco Biosphere Reserve 41 COFÁN BERMEJO ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 4. Podocarpus-El Cóndor 42 SUMACO NAPO GALERAS NATIONAL PARK Biosphere Biosphere Reserve Reserves 43 EL CÓNDOR BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 34 45 4 5. Tagaeri-Taromenane Intangible Zone 44 EL QUIMI BIOLOGICAL RESERVE Intangible 100 km 45 CERRO PLATEADO BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 6. Cuyabeno-Imuya Intangible Zone Zones 3 This reserve includes:

• The Yasuní National Park (YNP), its primary purpose being the conservation of biodiversity. Love life • Waorani Territory (WT), home to the people that have lived in this land from time immemorial. • The Tagaeri-Taromenane Intangible Zone in Yasuní (TTIZ), created by the state to respect its res- idents’ decision to live in isolation and with their traditions.

HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT THE YA- SUNÍ? You must have. In recent years, This guide is an invitation to come to the it’s probably the most talked-about Yasuní, to fall in love with it while travelling protected area in Ecuador. Everybody through its rivers, lagoons and meeting its is talking about it. But how many peo- people. In these pages you will find useful ple really know the Yasuní? information for planning your next trip in the area. Let’s go. Pick up your sustainable tour- The Yasuní is one of the last areas ism guide to Yasuní Biosphere Reserve (YBR) of jungle that remain intact in Ecuador, and get ready for a learning adventure. the most biodiverse place on the planet. These extraordinary forests are the heri- tage of all Ecuadorians and one of the Earth’s life reserves. They are also home PURPOSE OF THIS GUIDE to peoples who have developed an inti- mate dialogue with the forests and who The aim of this guide is twofold: to con- know them deeply. tribute to an initial understanding of biodiver- sity, cultures, and the RBY’s current situation, In recent decades, this magnificent re- also to invite travelers to visit, in this way gion has had to deal with a complex com- contributing to its conservation. The first bination of factors: oil and illegal timber sections provide an overview of the YBR, extraction, the arrival of squatters and mis- the national park, Waorani territory and the sionaries, and the accelerated growth of Yasuní-ITT initiative. Then, we offer useful tourism. In order to address such issues, the information and practical advise for plan- Yasuní is seeking to find a way to make human ning your visit to the Reserve. Finally, the ac­tivity compatible with the conservation of guide includes a list of legal tour opera- this natural and cultural treasure. Thus, a bio- tions in the Yasuní. The three maps in this sphere reserve was established in the territories guide contain general and touristic infor- between the Napo and the Pindoyacu rivers. mation about the region.

4 5 Inside a tierra firme forest Troschel’s tree frog Canoe ride along a white water river

Location: Orellana, Pastaza and Napo provinces. Size: 2 000 700 hectares (4 900 thousand acres). Altitude: 200-400 masl. Climate: warm humid, 25° C on average.

the Napo and Curaray Rivers and other populated centers. The country’s authorities are still consult- ing with the residents and local governments in order to define the reserve’s territorial boundaries. Within the YBR live three indigenous nation- alities –Waorani, Kichwa, and Shuar– and the Tagaeri, Taromenane, and other unidentified isolat- ed groups, as well as mestizo and Afro-Ecuadorian settlers. In addition, beneath this fragile Reserve In Ecuador there are four are large deposits of oil, a key element in the Ecua- biosphere reserves: dorian economy, and this has generated social and environmental conflicts. Through sustainable and • Galápagos (created in 1984). responsible tourism, you can help in the search • Yasuní (1989). for more autonomous subsistence alternatives for the region’s communities, taking advantage of the • Sumaco (2002). YBR’s major resource: its biodiversity. • Podocarpus-El Cóndor (2007).

YASUNÍ BIOSPH ERE RESERVE

ince 1976, the United Nations Educa- tional, Scientific and Cultural Organization S (UNESCO) has designated areas of global relevance as “biosphere reserves” due to their ecosystems and landscapes. One of these is the Yasuní. There are more than 560 reserves in 109 countries. Other outstanding examples are the Where Brazilian Pantanal, the Paraná River delta, Hawaii, and the Serengeti-Ngorongoro in Tanzania. forest and The YBR covers more than two-and-a-half million hectares (more than six million acres). Its nucleus is the homonimous National Park and the Waorani Terri- man come tory. The YNP and WT share the Tagaeri-Taromenane Intangible Zone, where Ecuador’s remaining peoples in isolation have taken refuge. Furthermore, the Re- together serve also comprises the buffer zones of these areas, including the Kichwa communities on the shores of

6 7 Pichicocha Lagoon o LIMONCOCHA o ri i BIOLOGICAL RESERVE r Sucumbíos Ag g

A go to Lago Agrio Limoncocha CUYABENO o La g Pompeya to a SUMACO L Garzacocha Pañacocha

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Baeza d t Na FAUNA a po Maxus r o Coca o r

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NAPO-GALERAS u oad o t Q A g o N u t a po ar RESERVE ico Ti NATIONAL Napo putini

to Loreto to Qui Tiputini PARK cuno Tiputini Tiva Boca del Tiputini oad r Orellana

Auca Nuevo Archidona Rocafuerte Yasuní YASUNÍ Tena Napo Jatuncocha lagoon Shi ripu no R Y I T O NATIONAL E R R T ño W hi A O R A N I s a N Ti güino

o y u P PARK o t Tagae ri Taromenane Intangible Zone C o no na PERÚ co

C uraray Pastaza Pavacachi Lorocachi

Pi Bo ndo bon yac aza u Yasuní Biosphere Reserve boundary Provincial boundary

C YASUNÍ Oil block un am bo Waorani territory N BIOSPHERE río Pas taza TaPgaeriasta zTaaromenane W E Intangible Zone S 10 km RESERVE 8 Pto. Tigre 9 YASUNÍ NATIONAL PARK

The apotheosis of diversity

he Yasuní National Park is the largest pro- tected area in continental Ecuador. Those visiting the Park will find an astonishing T biodiversity, with various world records in richness of flora and fauna. The winding rivers drain- ing the Park join with the great Napo River, the most important Amazon tributary beginning in Ecuador. Among these, the Tiputini, Nashiño, Yasuní, Tiva- Ceibo and canopy of the Amazon forest cuno, Tigüino, and Cononaco stand out.

Not all YNP rivers are equal. Depending on the sub- strate where they originate, they can be white water or DIVERSITY IN THE YASUNÍ black water rivers. The first are born in the Andes, and carry sediments which provide the characteristic brown- More than 1400 animal species thrive in the National Park. ish color. One example is the Curaray River, the southern 150 species of amphibians, a world record; in the entire Unit- limit of the Park. On the other hand, the black water rivers ed States and Canada combined there are only 99 species. and lagoons are born in the forest itself. Their dark, glis- tening, tea-like tone is due to tannins, pigments that rain Almost 600 different birds; one third of the entire Amazonian washes from the forest’s litter layer. avifauna. 169 mammals, including 12 monkeys; one out of three mam- Because of the rainfall regime in the Amazon, the mals of the Amazon basin. river level varies a great deal during the year. Between March and November, the rivers overflow their banks More than 100 thousand insect species in one hectare (2.4 and turn extensive areas into swamps. The ecosystem acres); a similar number exists in the whole of North America! that exists depends on the type of river that floods an area: varzea if it is a white-water river, and igapó if it is a In 50 hectares (120.5 acres) there can be up to 1,300 plant species. black-water river. The high areas that are not flooded are In a single hectare (2.41 acres) of the YNP there are more than known as terra firme forest. 650 tree species!

10 Añagucocha Lagoon 11 and Napo Wildlife Center Creation: november 1979. Extension: 982 000 000 (2 300 thou- sand acres). Ecosystems: tropical rain forest, flood- ed forests, swamps, rivers, lagoons.

Given the extension and continuity of its forests, there are many species living in the YNP that have disappeared in disturbed ar- eas. The powerful jaguars wander about the vegetation, while the fabulous harpy eagle soars above looking for its next meal of a spider monkey. Giant armadillos, giant ant- eaters, tapirs, titi monkeys… The selection of mammals is stupendous. As for birds spe- cies: five different macaws, six owls, seven toucans, two dozen hummingbirds, more than fifty ant birds, to name a few. The enu- meration of animals in the Yasuní would be endless: the rainbow boa and the anaconda, the pink river dolphin and the Amazonian manatee, the giant paiche fish, and an end- less variety of fish and insects.

Remember that seeing the Amazon’s fauna is not easy. Animals have developed a refined ability to hide. Thus, to discover these animals, you need to move softly and have a lot of patience and concentration, plus a good local guide.

Most of the YNP has not yet suffered change due to human activities. Nevertheless, roads opened for oil exploration and exploitation towards the north and west have encouraged settlement, de- forestation, intensive hunting, and illegal timber ex- traction. Furthermore, at least half of the YNP is sit- ted on top of important oil reserves and, on its edges, the agriculture frontier expands. In face of these realities, a number of communities have seen sustainable tourism as a promising alterna- tive. Within the YNP and in its surroundings there are several places that can receive tourists. These include everything from simple to comfortable lodgings, with crafts shops, logistical facilities and trails leaded by local and specialised guides.

12 Squirrel monkey13 Black water stream inside Waorani Territory Nocturnal monkey

suggesting a long period of isolation from other Am- azon societies. The tenacity with which they defend their independence won them the denigrating term aucas, which in Kichwa means “savages.” In recent decades, the Waorani have experi- enced dramatic changes linked to external colo- nization and other oil-activity related effects. Their nomadic and self-sufficient life-style has turned into one sedentary and dependent to economic agents beyond their control. Aggression against their way of life began at the end of the 19th century with rubber exploitation which enslaved thousands of indigenous people. After the Second World War, oil exploration began and the first Evangelical missionaries arrived. Their attempts to “civi- lize” the Waorani lead to violent episodes that marked them as a ferocious people in the Western psyche. Attempts to “pacify” the Waorani ended up with 80% of the population reallocated to a “protectorate” administered by the Summer Institute of Linguistics (SIL), a North American Evangelical organization. The cultural, social, and health repercussions are impossible

WAORANI TERRITORY AND PEOPLE IN ISOLATION

ithin the YBR, indigenous societies have thrived for thousands of years. In times when W the forest was continuous and without bor- ders, their inhabitants traveled over extensive regions, including the one known today as the Yasuní. Now the YBR has some 2,500 Waorani residents, close to 1,000 Shuar, and at least 2,000 Kichwa, in addition to mestizo and Afro-Ecuadorian settlers. The A place for Kichwa communities are located principally along the Napo and Curaray rivers and the Vía Auca, wherein Sh- building the uar communities are also settled. The Waorani settle- ments are scattered throughout most of the Reserve. future Waorani people have a rich and magical oral tradition, handy for reconstructing their history. Their language, Wao Terero, has no close relationship with any other language,

14 15 Waorani making feather headband Rainbow boa

Creation: 1990. Extension: 612 thousand hect- ares (1400 thousand acres). Peculiarities: Ecuadorian state reserves the right to exploit or lease for exploitation the subsoil.

to gauge; polio, flu and hepatitis epi- demics took many lives and continue to do so. Since the SIL was expelled from Ecuador (1981), a number of oil companies and other institutions have taken its place as an important actor shaping the region’s fate. During the 1990’s, the Waorani es- tablished the Waorani Nationality of Ecuador (NAWE, Spanish acronym) to represent them in dealings with the state, petroleum companies and the rest of society. In 1999, the Tagaeri-Taromenane Intangible Zone was established; this covers sections of the YNP and Waorani Territory. No activity –extractive or tour- istic–, is allowed if it would put at risk the peoples in isolation who live there. The Tagaeri (and other possible groups Chronology of events in the area known as Oñamenani and Wiñatari) sepa- 19th century Rubber exploitation. rated themselves from the Waorani in the 1937 Shell Oil enters the Ecuadorian 1960s. Since then, they avoid contact with Amazon. strangers. Other peoples living in isolation 1948 Shell Oil abandons operations are the Taromenane, whose history and cur- after clashes with the Waorani. rent numbers are not well known. 1956 Five North American mission- aries are speared to death on the The survival of the Yasuní peoples is Curaray River. complex and might be at risk. Until 2008, 1981 The SIL is expelled from Ecuador. timber interests entered the YNP and the In- 1990 Waorani Territory is recognized. tangible Zone illegally. Meanwhile, the oil and 1991 Maxus oil company begins agriculture frontiers continue their expansion, operations. which has contributed to the spread of viral 1999 The TTIZ is established. diseases that could be fatal to isolated popu- 2002 Petrobras begins explorations. lations. Many Waorani communities continue to 2005 First conflicts with loggers. look for autonomous life options; some are bet- 2007 Yasuní-ITT campaign is ting on sustainable tourism. launched.

16 Dawn in the Tiputini 17 Waorani elder man Maroon-tailed parakeet inside traditional shack

THE YASUNÍ-ITT INITIATIVE

A life commitment

or more than a decade, social organi- zations and residents of the Amazon F have urged the state to stop opening new oil production camps in natural reserves. In 2007, these demands came together in an innovative proposal that the Ecuadorian state presented to the world at the United Nations Assembly. The Yasuní-ITT Initiative proposes leaving underground relatively large deposits of heavy crude –some 850,000,000 barrels– found in the Ishpingo-Tambococha-Tiputini (ITT) petro- leum block in the northeast of the YNP.

By leaving the ITT’s crude underground, Ecuador aims to: • Avoid pressure on the populations living in the area. • Conserve the extraordinary biological riches of its forests. • Avoid burning that oil and the impact that would cause on global climate change.

It is estimated that the oil in the ITT would last for a mere couple of weeks in the global market. Is it worth sacrificing one of the most biodiverse corners of the planet for so little fuel? If billions of dollars need to be invested in compensating for carbon emissions, is it not more reasonable to avoid those emissions by leaving the oil underground? This is what Ecuador proposes to do. By not exploiting these reserves, Ecuador would forego some US$7 billion. Renouncing the exploita-

Tourists18 crossing a black water lagoon near Pilchicocha 19 tion of that resource represents a signifi- cant sacrifice for the country, as its econ- omy relies largely on oil exports. For what the planet benefits, as a result of this deci- sion (such as not producing 400,000,000 tons of carbon), Ecuador demands from the international community to compen- sate with 50% of the income it will not receive in the next twelve years (US $3.5 billion). This money will be deposited in a trust fund that will be used exclusively for health, education, reforestation, and man- agement of protected areas. The trust fund, administrated by the United Nations Development Program, has been created. Nonetheless, despite the praise the proposal has inspired in various world forums, contributions re- main scarce (only 1% has been received so far). If by December 2011 the funds de- manded have not been met, the Ecuador- ian government stands to go ahead with oil drilling in the ITT. Visiting the YBR and contributing to sustainability in the area is a way to contrib- ute to the Yasuní ITT Initiative. Community projects associated with sustainable tour- ism diminish dependence on oil companies. Sustainable tourism leaves a small ecologi- cal footprint in comparison with oil produc- tion and illegal timber extraction.

Your contribution, no matter how modest, can make a difference. In Ecuador, you can deposit your contribu- tions into the account #526558-4, Banco del Pacífico; in the United States, into the account #4533-6490, Wells Fargo Bank. Also, help spread the word, become part of campaigns, and encourage people and insti- tutions in your country to contribute. For more information, visit: http://yasuni-itt.gob.ec

20 Blue and yellow macaw21 - There are also buses from and to Machala, Guayaquil, Santo Domingo, Loja, Riobamba, Am- bato, Baños, Puyo, Tena, and Lago Agrio with the Baños, Putumayo, Loja, Jumandy, Quijos, and TOURISM in Yasuní Pelileo bus companies. - The shortest route from Quito is through Loreto; you can also get there through Lago Agrio (Nueva Loja). - You can enter the western part of the YBR living inside it from Tena. A number of companies travel be- tween Tena and several other cities, including more than 25 daily departures from Quito. nly fifteen years ago, you had to orga- nize an expedition to visit the Yasuní. By river. You can travel from Tena to Coca along O Today, there are various community the Napo River, though there is no regular pub- enterprises, communal and private, that of- lic transport. There is public river transport from fer an interesting choice of destinations, from Coca to Nuevo Rocafuerte (13 hours), regularly those ideal for people looking for comfort and at 7:30 (Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday). style to those for the more adventurous. The cost of a round trip is US $30. Tour operators In the YBR, attractions are related to bio- provide river transport. diversity and culture; therefore, the values that should guide tourism are respect for the By air. There are flights from Quito at the fol- environment and social responsibility. lowing times:

1. Access: Ícaro Tame Aerogal dep ret dep ret dep ret The main entry point is Coca (Francisco de monday-friday 8h45 9h40 7h00 8h30 6h20 7h15 9h00 10h00 10h30 11h30 Orellana), capital of the province of Orellana, 11h00 12h00 12h30* 13h25* by land, river, or air. 16h00 17h00 15h50** 16h45** Boy with red piranha saturday 10h00 11h00 7h15 8h10 12h00 13h00 10h30 11h30 Canopy bridge in Sacha Lodge By bus. Buses leave Quito’s Quitumbe Bus 15h50 16h45 sunday 14h00 15h00 10h30 11h30 Terminal daily. Telephone: +593 (2) 3814 810. *monday and friday; **except tuesday The one-way Quito-Coca ticket costs US$ 10. Lojanita 2880 032 Santa María 2880 097 Tickets costs between US $100 and $150 for a round Oasis 2880 206 Unicornio 2882 293 • Quito-Coca (Francisco de Orellana) trip. For more information visit airlines’ web sites. Safari Brisas William’s 2881 201 Information Lodging Restaurant Cooperativa Baños (4h00, 6h30, 7h30, 9h10, 2. Entering via Coca: del Napo 2882 128 Amazonas 2880 444 10h15, 11h50, 13h30, 14h30, 18h00, 18h15, San Fermín 2881 848 19h00, 20h20, 21h10, 22h00, 22h50, 23h00) - Coca (18,000 residents) has hospitals, hotels, - Dial 06 first to make calls to Orellana Province. Coop. Loja (11h00, 22h15, 23h30) banks, an airport, internet, information offices, Coop. Putumayo (6h00, 16h00) first aid, tour operators, markets, and the offices Excursion Jungle excursion Navigable river of the YNP and the Ministry of Tourism. 3. To the YBR: Coop. Trans Esmeraldas (8h30, 20h20, 21h30) -Staying the night in Coca can cost around US $10 - $50 per night. - Entering the National Park and Waorani • Quito-Limoncocha Territory on your own is not allowed. You Coop. Baños (17h30) Hotels in Coca must sign up for an excursion with an op- El Auca 2881 260 Río Napo 2880 872 erator authorized by both the Tourism and • Quito-Tigüino Lagoon Bird-watching Panoramic view La Misión 2880 544 Damaris 2881 651 Environment ministries. You can visit areas Coop. Baños (23h30) Gran Hotel El Ávila 2882 206 outside the Park and Waorani Territory on your own. Coop. Putumayo (5h50, 12h40, 20h40) del Coca 2882 666 Bolívar 2881 635 - The YNP entry fee is US $2 ($0.50 for people Heliconias 2882 010 Canoas 2882 094 with disabilities, senior citizens and children); • Quito-Pompeya Omaguas 2880 136 Coca 2882 088 to enter, you need a guide certified by the Protected area Handicrafts Community tourism Coop. Putumayo (19h45) Pto. Orellana 2880 970 Henry Paúl 2880 301 Ministry of Environment.

22 23 - The Napo river is the main entrance; on its • rechargeable batteries • water bot- 6. When to visit? SUSTAINABLE AND banks various Kichwa communities and lodg- tle • sealable plastic bags • mosquito CONSCIOUS TOURISM es can be found. You can visit various tribu- net • first aid kit • accident insurance - Any time of the year can be ideal, but be- - Always use formal tour operators. We rec- taries, such as the Indillama, always with an • yellow fever and hepatitis A, B, and tween December and February the rivers are authorized tour. low and navigation might be difficult. In June ommend that you select an operator based - By way of the Via Auca (Coca-Bataboro) C vaccine certificates • cash (beyond and August, the rivers tend to be higher. on environmental practices and their relation- various Waorani, Kichwa and Shuar communi- Coca, there are no banks). ship with the communities: • solid and liquid ties can be reached, as well as along the Shi- 7. Communications waste disposal • energy sources and usage ripuno, Tiguino, Tiputini and Cononaco rivers, 5. Safety and health: • architecture in harmony with surroundings from which you can enter the YNP and sectors - Telephone and internet access is limited and use of renewable materials • respect for of Waorani territory. This access is controlled - Avoid informal tourist operations that offer except at Coca and Nuevo Rocafuerte. Cell environmental norms • does not capture or by the state. visits to Waorani Territory or the Intangible phone signals are available in certain parts of sell wild species • distributes income in eq- - From Shell Mera you can take a small plane Zone, as these may be fly-by-night, care- the YBR, especially near Coca and some oil uitable fashion • decent working conditions. to the Waorani communities of Quehueiri’ono less operations with a negative impact on the camps. A number of lodges have radios for - By avoiding and reporting bad practices and Bameno, and to other landing strips on YBR, its residents, and tourists. communication and a few have internet. you contribute to sustainable tourism in the the banks of the Curaray River in the prov- - On visiting the Intangible Zone, you could Reserve. Report bad practices to national ince of Pastaza. introduce common illnesses that are poten- 8. Useful phone numbers in Coca: and regional environmental and tourist au- - Tours usually last between four and eight tially fatal for persons who have had no con- thorities (phone numbers above). days; set aside at least five days to visit the tact with them. To enter their territories or Yasuní National Park - When you travel to Waorani Territory, make participate in tours and fly-overs “in search” Yas­uní, taking into account one day to enter Office 2881 850 sure that your operator is authorized, either of these peoples is disrespectful of their de- and another one to leave. Provincial Office of by NAWE or the communities you will visit. cision to live in isolation and could result in - The only operator currently authorized the Ministry of Tourism 2881 583 - Do not eat wild animal meat, either in res- by the MAE to enter the YNP is Enchant- clashes that put human life at risk. taurants or provided by guides; eating wild Airport 2880 185 ed Expeditions. Contact: De las Alondras - Drinking water is limited; though rain for- meat contributes to the extinction of vulner- N45-102, Quito. +593 (2) 3340 525 info@ est rivers are generally clean, drinking from Port Office 2882 573 able species. enchantedexpeditions.com them may affect your stomach. Take plenty of Police 2880 101 - Demand that guides do not bother wild www.enchantedexpeditions.com drinking water and purification tablets as you animals in attempts to attract them: enjoy will need to drink continuously in the heat. Francisco de Orellana seeing the animals in their natural habitat Hospital 2880 139 4. What should you take? Avoid plastic disposable bottles. and behaviour. - Malaria, yellow fever, and leishmaniasis are Fire Department 2880 102 - Contribute to community economic well- Rubber boots • light clothing: long occasionally found in the region. To enter Provincial Government being by buying crafts made locally; always the YNP you need yellow fever vaccination. sleeved shirts, slacks • bathing suit • of Orellana 2880 148 pay a fair price. To enter the Waorani Territory you also re- - Do not take containers, batteries, or oth- cap or hat • sunglasses • biodegrad- quire typhus and hepatitis A, B and C vac- National Telecommunications er disposable items; if you do, take them able insect repellant • binoculars • cinations. It is recommended that you use a Council 2880 104 out with you. photo and/or video camera • flashlight mosquito net and biodegradable repellent. - Dial 06 first to make calls to Orellana Province.

24 25 Black water lagoon in the Yasuní What you should not miss:

Paddle canoe ride At the river’s pace, you will see aquatic and terrestrial animals as they approach to re- fresh themselves in the water. Night time stroll Go out in search of nocturnal creatures, includ- ing caimans, insects, toads, monkeys, and owls. Salt licks These are sites where the ground is excep- tionally rich in minerals, so animals go there to supplement their diet. There are no better places in the rainforest to observe animals which are normally aloof. Walk through the rain forest with local guides Nobody knows the rain forest better than the Waorani, Kichwa, and Shuar who have grown up and are part of cultures that developed there. A good local guide can make the difference be- tween an enjoyable and an unforgettable walk. Canopy towers and walkways The towers are thirty or more meters high which means you can appreciate birds and primates like never before; they also offer a spectacular and new perspective on the forest. Bird watching at dawn To be able to appreciate fully the biodiversity of birds it is necessary to get up at dawn. The same applies for monkeys. Few efforts are more rewarding. Eating maito Maito is fish wrapped in plantain leaves and steamed over a wood fire or in holes in the ground; one of the Amazon’s most exquisite taste treats. Living in a community From sharing food to listening to stories and traditions from the voices of the elders, this is another way to learn about the rain forest and its culture. CICAME Museum, Pompeya This is the best on-site museum in the country, with a magnificent collection of archaeological pieces from the Amazon, some almost a thousand years old. Contact the Aguarico Vicariate. +593 (6) 2880 501 / [email protected] / http://aguarico.vicariato.net/ CICAME.html Toxi tour A tour through oil camps, abandoned and producing, helps to understand the Yasuní’s fragile social and envi- ronmental situation.

26 27 Two species of parakeets in a salt lick road to Lago Agrio LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE C U Y to Lago Agrio Pañacocha A B E N Limoncocha Pañacocha O Sani Pompeya to Coca F ui Garzacocha A U Q N o A t Nueva Providencia P A Añangu R O guarico Añangucocha D U C Yuturi T o I O p Chiru Isla San Vicente N a

N Shinchi Chicta Tip R utini E Na S po E R Maxus r V E Tiputini oad Tiputini Boca del Llanchama Tiputini Santa Rosa uno Tivac Puerto Miranda

Auca road Alta Florencia Santa Teresita uní Yas Huiñame Onco Ahuemuro Nuevo YASUNÍ Rocafuerte Quehueire Ono Jatuncocha

Ñuneno PERÚ Sh irip un Dicaro Nueva Golondrina o NATIONAL Tigüino Caruhue Onco iño sh a Lumbaqui N Lago Agrio Quito T igüino Mima Onco Quemperi Onco El Chaco Bahuameno ononac (Sandoval) PARK Papallacta Baeza Coca C o

Loreto

Archidona Quito - El Coca 300 km Tena mean duration: 8 hours

Provincial capital Curaray Town Community Pavacachi Lorocachi YASUNÍ Yasuní Biosphere Reserve boundary TOURISTIC Main road N Secondary road W E MAP 10 km 28 River S 29 LA SELVA JUNGLE LODGE Coca, private 500-hectare (1,205-acre) reserve. WHERE TO GO on the banks of the Garzacocha Lagoon on comfortable cabins, electricity via generator, the north bank of the Napo River. food, rain forest trails, guides. comfortable cabins, electricity, food, rain fo- rain forest walks, bird and fauna watching, Tourism operations registered in the Ministry of Tourism of Ecuador, by March 2011. rest trails, guides, canopy tower, butterfly farm, canoe rides, visits to communities, visits to sha- jungle spa. man, fishing, night walks. where it is what’s there activities contact price jungle walks, bird and fauna watching, salt Adventure Ecotours. Amazonas N24-240 lick visits, canoe rides, camping, fishing, night & Colón, Quito. +593 (2) 2504 037 / 2503 225; NAPO WILDLIFE CENTER walks through the rain forest, bird and fau- walks, natural treatments and spa. Malecón s/n, Coca. +593 (6) 2880 619 / info@ on the banks of the Añangucocha Lagoon, na watching, salt lick visits, canoe rides, visits La Selva, a private company operating on yarinalodge.com / www.yarinalodge.com on lands of the Añagu Kichwa community, at to communities, camping, fishing, night walks, land rented from El Pilche community. Mariana US $270 - 450 (3 - 5 days); doesn’t include the south bank of the Napo River. volunteer opportunities. de Jesús E7-211 & La Pradera, Quito. +593 (2) air or bus fare. comfortable cabins, solar energy, food, rain Comunidad de Sani Isla. Roca E4-49 & Ama- 2545 425 / 2550 995 / info@laselvajunglelodge. forest trails, guides, canopy tower, crafts for zonas, Quito. +593 (2) 2558 881 / 2906 021 / info@ com / www.laselvajunglelodge.com YAKU KAWSAY ENVIRONMENTAL INTER- sale, satellite internet, library. sanilodge.com / www.sanilodge.com US $547 - 852 (3- 5 days), US $190 per PRETATION CENTER walks through the rain forest, bird and fau- US $627 - 1347 (4-8 days); US $396 - 847 extra day; 30% discount for Ecuadorians. on the Napo River in the Kichwa Nueva na watching, salt lick visits, canoe trips, visits (camping); doesn’t include air or bus fare. Doesn’t include air or bus fare. Providencia community. to communities, night walks. interpretation center, guides, crafts for sale. Comunidad de Añangu. Río Yaupi & Ma- MANATEE AMAZON EXPLORER BATABURO LODGE visits to communities, observe craft-ma- riana de Jesús, Quito. +593 (2) 6005 893 / sail along the Napo and Aguarico rivers on the Tigüino River, near the Bataburo and king; tourism is just beginning. 6005 819 / [email protected] / from Coca. Tigüino communities, 27 km downriver from comunidad Nueva Providencia and Wildli- www.napowildlifecenter.com comfortable cabins, electricity, food, gui- the bridge on the Auca road. fe Conservation Society. Eloy Alfaro N37-224 US $760 - 1520 (4-8 days); 20% discount des, canoes on board. comfortable cabins, electricity, food, rain fo- & Coremo, Quito. +593 (2) 2249 763 / wcse- for Ecuadorians; doesn’t include air or bus fare. cruise along the Napo River, walks through rest trails, guides. [email protected] / www.yakukawsay.org the rain forest, fauna watching, salt lick visits, rain forest walks, bird and fauna watching, not available. FLOTEL LA MISIÓN canoe rides, visits to communities, visit a sha- canoe rides, visits to communities, fishing, travel by boat along the Napo River bet- man, night walks. camping, craft-making. LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE ween Coca and Iquitos (Peru). Advantage Travel Ecuador. Gaspar de Villa- Kempery Tours, in agreement with NAWE. Ra- north bank of the Napo River, Pompeya comfortable cabins, electricity, food, gui- roel 1100 & 6 de Diciembre, Quito. +593 (2) 2448 mírez Dávalos 117 & Amazonas, ed. Tourismundial, area. des, satellite internet. 985 / 2447 190 / [email protected] / of. 101, Quito. +593 (2) 2505 600 / 2226 583 / kem- simple cabins, food, rain forest trails, guides. cruise along the Napo River, walks through www.manateeamazonexplorer.com [email protected] / www.kempery.com jungle walks, fauna and bird watching, the rain forest, fauna watching, canoe rides, US $560 - 2833 (4 - 10 days); doesn’t US $295 - 335 (4 - 5 days); doesn’t include air canoe rides, visit to communities, night visits to communities, visits to shamans, fis- include air or bus fare. or bus fare. walks. hing, night walks, cruises to Iquitos (Peru) and Yasuní National Park Office, Coca. +593 Tabatinga (Brazil). SACHA LODGE YARINA ECOLODGE (6) 2881 850. Misión Orellana. 18 de Septiembre E4-76 on the banks of the Pilchicocha Lagoon, on the banks of the Napo River, 25 km east of US$2 entrance fee. & Amazonas, Quito. +593 (2) 2553 960 / info@ in a 2,000 hectare (4,820-acre) private reserve flotelamision.com / www.flotelamision.com on the south bank of the Napo River. US $740 - 840 (Ecuadorians), US $865 - comfortable cabins, diesel-generated elec- Several indigenous communities along the Napo River margins are developing sustainable tourism projects, 997 (foreigners) for 5 days; doesn’t include air tricity, food, rain forest trails, guides, canopy grouped in the Network of Tourism Initiatives of the Napo River Margins (REST, Spanish acronym). This network or bus fare. tower and walks, library, butterfly farm. is consolidating. For more information, contact REST at Nuevo Rocafuerte: +593 (6) 2382 119 / 2382 108. Like- walks through the rain forest, bird and fauna wat- wise, other organized communities within the YBR, like Quehueri’ono, are processing their Community Tourism Centre licence. More information at www.huaorani.com SANI LODGE ching, salt lick visits, canoe rides, fishing, night walks. on the banks of the Chaullacocha Lagoon, Julio Zaldumbide & Valladolid, Quito. +593 in lands of the Sani Isla Kichwa community, at (2) 2566 090/ 2509 504 / [email protected] / For more information, visit: the north bank of the Napo River. www.sachalodge.com www.ecuador.travel.ec www.ambiente.gob.ec comfortable cabins, solar energy, food, rain forest US $547 - 690 (Ecuadorians), US $714 - 920 www.yasuni-itt.gob.ec www.descubreorellana.com trails, guides, canopy tower, crafts for sale, library. (foreigners) (4 - 5 days); doesn’t include air or bus fare. www.turismo.gob.ec www.unwto.org

30 31 Remarkable animal species of Yasuní This is a short list of the most remarkable fauna species that can be found in Yasuní. It is not a full list as the biodiversity of Yasuní is overwhelming. Enjoy completing your checklist!

Mammals Lined forest-falcon Violaceous jay Jaguar Speckled chachalaca Lawrence’s thrush Puma Blue-throated piping-guan Paradise tanager Jaguaroundi Salvin’s currasow Turquoise tanagar Ocelot Blue-and-yellow macaw Magpie tanager Red-and-green macaw Red-capped cardinal Coordination: Juan Freile and Andrés Vallejo Bush dog Texts: Juan Freile Tayra Scarlet macaw Crested oropendola Editor: Andrés Vallejo Kinkajou Black-headed parrot Yellow-rumped cacique Design: Esteban Garcés Maroon-tailed parakeet Maps: Susana Crespo and Pablo Cabrera South American coati English translation: Mary Ellen Feiweger Giant river otter Mealy amazon Reptiles English revision: Cathleen Hall Orange-winged amazon South American tapir Black caiman Squirrel cuckoo Coordination, Ministry of Tourism: Mónica Burbano Montalvo Collared peccary Spectacled caiman Review: Ministry of Tourism: Office of Tourism Development and Facilitation, Crested owl White-lipped peccary Smooth fronted caiman Office of Social Communication, Office of Regulation and Control, Office of Spectacled owl Red brocket deer Rainbow boa Strategic Marketing, Orellana Provincial Office. Great potoo Giant anteater Boa constrictor Great-billed hermit Review: Ministry of the Environment: Orellana Provincial Office, Yasuní Giant armadillo Emerald tree boa National Park, Program for Environmental and Social Reparation, Program for Gray-breasted sabrewing Southern two toed sloth Common anaconda the Conservation and Sustainable Management of the Natural and Cultural Fiery topaz Heritage of the Yasuní Biosphere Reserve (MAE-MDG-F) White-bellied spider-monkey South American bush master Pavonine quetzal Pöppig’s woolly monkey Common lancehead Violaceous trogon Red howler monkey Two striped forest pitviper Blue-crowned trogon Monk saki monkey Parrot snake Ringed kingfisher White-fronted capuchin Brown vine snake Amazonian motmot Common squirrel monkey South American coral snake Acknowledgements: United Nations Development Great jacamar Program (UNDP), World Tourism Organizations (WTO), Pygmy marmoset South American tortoise White-necked puffbird United Nations Education, Science, Saddlebacked tamarin Yellow spotted river turtle and Culture Organization (UNESCO). White-fronted nunbird Yellow handed titi Tegu lizard Lemurine night monkey White-throated toucan Photo credits Many-banded aracari Pete Oxford: cover (tourist), 7 (lagoon), 10, 11, 14 (lagoon), Paca Amphibians 15 (waorani), 17 (snake), 18 (waorani and lagoon), 23. Chestnut woodpecker Amazon river dolphin Murray Cooper: cover (monkeys), cover (parrots), 4, 7 (tourists), 12, South American bullfrog Amazonian manatee Crimson-bellied woodpecker 15 (monkeys), 18 (parrots), 20, 26. Long-billed woodcreeper Brownbelly tree frog Roberto Espinosa: 16, 24. Great antshrike Zaparo rocket frog Oliver Dangles and Francois Nowicki/Biota Maxima: 22. Lucas Bustamante/Tropical Herping: cover (frog), 6. Birds Cocha antshrike Amazon tungara frog Great tinamou Brown-backed antwren Amazonian harlequin frog Undulated tinamou Lunulated antbird Mitred toad This document should be cited as follows: Ecuador Terra Incognita, 2011, Guide to Sustainable Tourism in the Yasuní Anhinga White-plumed antbird Amazonian horned frog Biosphere Reserve, Ministry of Tourism, Quito. Neotropic cormorant Tropical kingbird Marbled tree frog Cocoi heron Plum-throated cotinga Map tree frog © Ministerio de Turismo del Ecuador 2011 Striated heron Amazonian umbrellabird Yasuni slender tree frog Green ibis Bare-necked fruitcrow Amazon leaf frog Produced by King vulture Golden-headed manakin Surinam frog Harpy eagle Wire-tailed manakin Ecuadorian climbing salamander Crested eagle Blue-backed manakin Linnaeus’ caecilian 32 Distributed free of charge

Av. Eloy Alfaro N32-300 and Carlos Tobar Quito - Ecuador Telephones: +593 (2) 2507 560 / 555 / 559 Fax: +593 (2) 2507 565