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SI A O B LD A R O A D P T Z T K I R I O L L S N EN E A S M E V N L A E At the Heart of E O S This walk covers Lower Clapton. U SE R A Q V E

G R O N

D IC K Hackney since 1967 R W T

E S WA Clapton – farm on the hill – is derived from ‘clop’, a lump or

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A Stoke R I A E O

ST P E D N C R Newington O A hill, and ‘ton’, farm. It was normally rendered Clopton until the

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G O R V E O T O N R E 18th century. Until the second half of the 19th century, the area Z D D E A A L B C A A L D RK O Hackney Walks No 10 was largely agricultural with a few grand houses. Following the A O PA O U R Y O AK LEY R V SHIP opening of Clapton Station in 1872 and the introduction of the D E A Hackney Society Publication E R N Q O Q U E R L N A S A I L L U O T P L E E N T H E I M O U N horse omnibus and tram into the City, the area became desirable E T Y E N RD From Clapton Pond to K S A S N R ROO E T to commuters, leading developers to create new streets. W I ZEB R O E RA D N Clapton Square – and back D G O A L B L L U R D I A D A E I O B V Z A R E B F F L S O A O R C E B R A D Duration 1 hour 1 Clapton Pond ROAD E T H © O C D L K O D O Distance 1 mile S W S H R O A D WO S CE R T Clapton Pond was first dug in the early 17th century. During the T S A GARNHAM T O L N N RR R O O WN E A M

O T EE M W C BR IP O 18th century it was a reservoir. In 1898 a public park was created H S C T

K DS R N T O R O E T

L D G O T N IN R U M A and railings put up. It was improved by Clapton Pond Neighbour-

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E E U R E R T S N P Fig 2:158 and 160 Lower Clapton Road 2013

O hood Action Group with a new bridge, fountain and play area.

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RO N R O O K C 4 Bishop Wood’s Almshouses N B T G R I D R 2 Former St James Terrace O B L UN A A A R O

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O D O T N NASTON L A D A O Bishop Wood’s Almshouses were founded in 1665 by

N KY E Once part of St James Terrace, 158 and 160 Lower Clapton E LC O

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T A S I N Road date from the early 19th century. Four houses were

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H Rectory R T A restored in 1888 and 1930. The chapel added in the

OS I E demolished to make way for Millfields Road. O D O R L L ROAD

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T ID Y R R 19th century had pews only for the ten resident widows.

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R OR D D d O oa R L 5 P e A 6 it Pond House, 162 Lower Clapton Road, was built for Benjamin A O a O ew 5 Thistlewaite Road D stl D W hi W T 7 E Walsh, a stockbroker, soon after 1800. It was used as a home oad L E k R Buses:  L The writer Harold Pinter grew up at 19 Thistlewaite S 8 4 ic until the 1880s, a school until 1904, then a clothing factory. A D R w S E R O

T M A N R Ne d 38, 48, 55, 56, C 9 a Road. In 2012 Lady Antonia Fraser Pinter, his widow, O o O R From 1939 to 2001 it was occupied by the Hackney Volunteers L 3 ll RO A D I S A a S S K O A D h D 106, 253, 254, O R R D en E L unveiled a plaque that had been sponsored by Clapton N E C Clapton ld I Social Club. It is now being converted into flats. L E Y D F D S Ponds Mi L L C A M L 393, 425 and 488 R E S C E N T H 2 MI N U R S T A D D P R Overground: E 1 A W A L F A U O R D F R T S AD R O A D W O O H

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G T O GN U O 21 R A U R T N S R P 20 Fig 1: ClaptonO Pond (with Pond House and former StD James Terrace in the Fig. 3: Pond House 2006 © Malcolm Smith W

B O R H A S 19 O K E T L R O A T MBUR C S S

I background) c.1884 © Hackney Archives V L S D 18 L W A N

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T SO UT A H E LD G ON STR S EE P T O Liverpool H Street L I S V E R P O O I L S B T RE E T Fig 4: Bishop Wood’s Almshouses Fig. 5: The Clapton Hart 2013 Fig 7: Church of St James the Great 2013

Pond Neighbourhood Action Group. A plaque on number was added in 1902 by W D Caröe, who also designed the 11 Former Mothers’ Hospital 25 records that the first synagogue in the present-day organ case, cross and candlesticks. The church is a Grade II The buildings at 145-153 (odd) Lower Clapton Road date London Borough of Hackney, built 1779-80 (5539-5540), listed building. from about 1824. Behind them was the Salvation Army stood to the rear of this building in the grounds of Mothers’ Hospital, built c.1840, and demolished in 1987. Clapton House. 9 The Fountain The site of the hospital is now occupied by Mothers’ The Fountain PH, 211 Lower Clapton Road, has been on the site Square, a housing development opened by the Prince of 6 The Clapton Hart since 1814. It closed in October 2006 and has been converted Wales in 1990. There has been a pub at 231 Lower Clapton Road since into flats. 1733. The White Hart burnt down in the 1830s, was 12 Windsor Castle rebuilt and in turn rebuilt again in the early 1890s. 10 Rowhill Road There has been a pub at 135 Lower Clapton Road since It was called The Pegasus before 2001 when it was Rowhill Mansions and Kinnoul Mansions in Rowhill Road and 1832. The Windsor Castle was rebuilt in the early 1890s. renamed Chimes. In 2004 it closed following the death St Andrews Mansions, 157-163 Lower Clapton Road, were of an 18 year old who was stabbed at an end-of-term built in 1901-1904 by W Andrews of Wood Green. The architect 13 Clapton Pavement school party. After restoration, the pub reopened in was A Bedborough. A brown plaque on St Andrews Mansions 2012 as the Clapton Hart. A brown plaque on Clapton Pavement (1880), at the commemorates the prison reformer John Howard (1726-90), corner of Lower Clapton Road and Clapton Passage, who was born near here. 7 229 Lower Clapton Road commemorates the philanthropist, educationalist and Designed by George Duckworth, the building at 229 Fig 6: 229 Lower Clapton Road 2008 Fig 8: The Fountain 2013 Lower Clapton Road was opened in 1910 as the Clapton Cinematograph Theatre. It was renamed Kenning Hall cinema in 1919, and converted for sound pictures in 1929. In the late 1930s, it was taken over by Odeon and the frontage was modified. It closed in 1979. The nightclub Dougie’s was opened in 1983 by Irvine Douglas. In 2000 the club was sold to Admiral Ken and renamed the Palace Pavilion. It closed in 2006 after a murder. The building was bought by St Mary of Zion in 2011.

8 Church of St James The Great The nave of this Gothic Revival church was built in 1840- 41 by Edward Charles Hakewill. The red brick chancel Fig 9: Rowhill Mansions 2012 © Ulrike Wahl Fig. 10: Windsor Castle c.1880 © Hackney Archives Fig 11: Kings Hall and Baths 1905 © Hackney Archives prominent lay churchman, Joshua Watson, who lived 17 Clapton Square in a house on this site (117 Lower Clapton Road) from Clapton Square was laid out on Clapton Field in 1816. Original 1811 until 1823 and from 1841 until 1855. houses remain on the north and west sides. Others were replaced by a mansion block in 1900. Two sides of the square 14 113 Lower Clapton Road were demolished in the late 19th century. The gardens were At 113 Lower Clapton Road is a plaque for Joseph originally private, but in 1924 they were acquired by London Priestley (1733-1804), scientist and theologian, who lived County Council and transferred to Hackney Council. at a house on the site from 1792 until 1794. After being hounded out of his house and laboratory in Birmingham 18 St John-at-Hackney by a mob that opposed his support for the French St John-at-Hackney was built in 1791-94 by James Spiller to Revolution, he was invited to come to Hackney to take replace St Augustine’s Church from 1292 of which the tower up the post of Unitarian Minister at the Old Gravel Pit remains. A semicircular porch was added 1810-11. Fire damage Chapel where he had many friends amongst the Hackney in 1955 was repaired by N F Cachemaille-Day and William C Dissenters. He emigrated to America in 1794 fearing a Lock. The churchyard contains the tombs of the Loddiges family repeat of his family’s persecution. and Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, who developed the Beaufort wind scale. A walled garden was added in 1963. Fig 12: Kings Hall Leisure Centre and 43 Lower Clapton Road 2013 15 43 Lower Clapton Road 21 Strand Building In the 1890s, the Elephant’s Head was built as a 19 K2 telephone kiosks replacement for the old Portland Arms, which in Built as ‘Hackney Electricity Demonstration Halls The K2 telephone kiosks on the corner of Churchwell Path and 1849 was at Portland Place Yard and was demolished & Offices’ in 1925, the Art Deco Strand Building at Lower Clapton Road date from 1927. They were designed by between 1884 and 1897. The pub was renamed 18-24 Lower Clapton Road was designed by Giles Gilbert Scott. Fitzgerald’s by the Unique Pub Property Ltd in 2005. J A Bowden. The original building included a model It closed in 2012. home featuring a suite of rooms equipped with the 20 Former Hackney Police Station latest domestic appliances. The upper floors have 16 Kings Hall Leisure Centre Hackney Police Station at 2 Lower Clapton Road was designed been converted into flats. by John Dixon-Butler and built in 1904 for the Metropolitan The Kings Hall Leisure Centre at 39 Lower Clapton Police. It includes offices, cells and section house. It closed 22 The Lord Cecil Road opened as Hackney Baths in 1897. It was built in 2013. by Edward Harnor and Frederick Pinches, following There has been a pub on the site of 42 Lower Clapton Hackney’s adoption of the 1846 Public Baths and Wash Road since 1868. The Lord Cecil closed in March 2005. Houses Act in 1891. 23 The Round Chapel The Round Chapel was built by Henry Fuller in 1869-71 to replace the Old Gravel Pit Chapel in Morning Lane. For its first two decades, the Clapton Park Chapel, as it was then known, was one of the most important non-conformist centres in East London, but the church congregation decreased as the composition of the neighbourhood changed. In 1991, Hackney Historic Buildings Trust (HHBT) was given the United Reform Church in a derelict condition. The Trust raised almost Fig 15: Churchwell Path phone Kiosks Fig 16: Former Hackney Police Station 2013 £1 million to repair and conserve the whole complex, Fig 17: The Round Chapel 2012 © Richard Allen including the Old School Rooms which were retained 25 Biddle Bros by the Church. The refurbishment of the Round Chapel received a Civic Trust Award in 1998. HHBT now runs In 1902-3 the property at 88 Lower Clapton Road was listed the Round Chapel as an arts and community venue. as Glover Bros., upholsterers; in 1911 as Glover Bros., cabinet makers. By 1960 it was occupied by Mr Biddle, 24 Clapton Portico building contractors. The bar Biddle Bros was opened in 2004 by Ptang Ltd. The Clapton Portico in Linscott Road is all that remains of a building (1823-25) designed by William Southcote 26 Clapton Girls’ Academy Inman to house the London Orphan Asylum. Following the asylum’s move in 1871, the building was occupied This school opened in Cassland Road in 1906 as County by a number of organisations, and was bought by the Secondary School for Girls, South Hackney. It moved to Laura Salvation Army in 1882. In 1969 it became the property Place in 1916. Following several changes of name, it became of Clapton Girls’ School, and the main building was Clapton Girls’ Academy in 2011. The Laura Place site was demolished in the 1970s. The Grade II listed Portico was extended in 1975. In 2010 it was updated by Jestico & Whiles Fig 18: London Orphan Asylum, colour lithograph, George Hawkins, restored in 2005 by Brady Mallalieu Architects. with 40% new buildings and 60% refurbished buildings. This c.1830 © Hackney Archives refurbishment was a winner of the Hackney Design Awards 2010.

Text by Monica Blake Fig 13: Clapton Square 2013 Fig 14: St John at Hackney 2013 Photographs courtesy of Richard Allen, Monica Blake, Hackney Archives, Malcolm Smith and Ulrike Wahl Graphic Design by [email protected] The Hackney Society is the borough’s civic and amenity society. For further information log on to www.hackneysociety.org, email info@hackneysociety. org, or write to us at The Round Chapel, 1d Glenarm Road, London E5 OLY. Other walks are available in the series: 8. Clapton Common and its environs and 9. Highlights of Haggerston, Generously funded by Community First.

www.hackneysociety.org