CAPE VERDE 229 © Lonely Planet Publications Devotee

CAPE VERDE 229 © Lonely Planet Publications devotee. devotee. (mournful songs) of morno mornos – the deep longing that fills Cesária Évora’s music. While hunger Évora’s music. that fills Cesária – the deep longing 238 sodade % 450,000 Cesária Évora Cesária Portuguese, Crioulo Praia Cabo Verde escudo (CVE); US$1 = escudo (CVE); Verde Cabo All non-Cabo Verdean citizens citizens All non-Cabo Verdean 4035 sq km Area Capital Country code for Famous Languages Money CVE91, €1 = CVE112.16 Population Visa a visa. require Though tiny in area, the islands contain a remarkable profusion of landscapes, from Maio’s tiny in area, Though It’s not just open ocean that separates Cape Verde from the rest of West Africa. Cool of West Africa. from the rest Verde Cape It’s not just open ocean that separates resulted For centuries, isolation and cyclical drought have been easy here. has never life Yet FAST FACTS FACTS FAST is no longer a threat, you need only glance at the terraced hillsides baking you need only glance at the terraced in the sun to is no longer a threat, grain of corn, is precious. bean, every understand that every And Fogo, a single volcanic peak whose valleys of Santo Antão. flats to the verdant barren increasingly beaches of Sal and Boa Vista The lava. of frozen with rivers streaked slopes are seur – the a destination for the connois attract package-tour remains Verde crowds, but Cape hiker, the die-hardintrepid windsurfer, the deep-sea angler, Most people only know Cape Verde through the haunting Verde Most people only know Cape Cesária Évora. To visit her homeland – a series of unlikely volcanic islands some 500km off Évora. Cesária amalgam of West African the coast of Senegal – is to understand strange, bittersweet rhythms and mournful Portuguese melodies that shape her music. and a stable political economic moderate, for example, keep temperatures currents, population, who represent The help supportsystem highest standard of living. West Africa’s and Portuguese of African heritage, will seem exuberantly warm if you fly varying degrees from Lagos or Dakar. low-key if you arrive in straight from, say, Britain, but refreshingly leaving those at been forced to emigrate, have Verdeans Generations of Cape in famine. home wracked by Cape Cape Verde CAPE VERDE ITINERARIES HIGHLIGHTS 230 August to mid-October, weeks can goby August tomid-October, weeks from mid- during theso-called rainy season VerdeCape year-round. ispleasant Even CLIMATE &WHENTO GO Traditional music Three Weeks Three of of minesand take asidetriptothesalt ( p247 ), which isawindsurfer’s mecca cap off yourtrip. Santo Antão long ferry ridelandsyouinmountainous island’s interior. FromMindelo,anhour- est town,andspendadayexploringthe the country’sculturalcentre andpretti- Mindelo a few daysonthebeaches at

( p250). beachesserted of wind downonthefineandlargely de- on thenorthsideof theisland.Then exploring thewineandcoffee country Filipe Spendadayin volcanic peakrises. ancient crater outof which the2829m simply toexplore the ChãdasCaldeiras, to Two Weeks One Week bus totheNewWorld. windsthatpushed Colum- transatlantic withthesame andfillyoursail Boa Vista, Windsurfing ridge of theisland, Santo Antão the colourandchaos inMindelo. the rumlike national drink,anddive into Gras Mardi peak. 2829m, itshighest country’s onlyactive volcano and,at stunning, cinder-clad the mountain, Mt Fogo or welcomethembackwitha wave loved ones goodbyewitha spectacular canyonsandverdantspectacular valleys. remained forcenturies. thesame intorurallifeas wellaninsight thathas ing, especiallythe peaksof São Nicolau, most traditional islands. Bothoffer hik- São Nicolau all of theabove, andhave time tovisit CAPEVERDE••Highlights Fogo Pedra daLume ( p244 ), andanother dayortwo ( p244 ) toclimbMt Fogoorjust ( p240 ), located onSãoVicente, ( p244 tothetopof) Huff this ( p241 ) Downquantitiesof Fly into 28) or (p248) From SantoAntão,headover ( p243 ), where stunninghikes ( p243 ) Hike over thepine-clad ( p249 ) Head tothebeaches of With three youcando weeks, ( p234) ( p246 ). Next,headto Sal Boa Vista

Brava ( p246 ), unwindfor then downintoits

Watch musicians ( p248 ), thetwo (p249)or Santa Maria coladeira. morno, grogue, Maio Maio São

Plans by Genoese investors tocreatePlans byGenoese large import slaves from the West African coast. land, settlers almostimmediately beganto ics, onthe islandSãoVicente. Towork the Velha), the first European towninthetrop- founded Ribeira Grande(nowCidade first groupof sixyears settlers later. They inhabited butfertile toattractthe enough VerdeCape in1456,theislands were un- mariners discoveredWhen Portuguese Drought&Neglect Slavery, HISTORY way fromtheSahara. by gustywinds,which blowindustall the altitudes. Winter months are also marked sweater especiallyathigher intheevenings, From DecembertoMarch a youmayneed especially Fogo,canget hotand sticky. thesouthern islands,in Europe,though the northernislands,canbecooler than from May toNovember. ary toamaximumdaytimeaverage of 29°C averageimum night-time of 19°CinFebru- the mostmoderate, rangingfromamin- country inWestAfrica,andalsosomeof Verde hasthelowesttemperatures of any ocean currents andoffshore winds,Cape without adownpour. Thanks tocooling See Climate Charts See p813 . Summer temperatures, especiallyin LONELY INDEX PLANET HOW MUCH?

CVE250 Plate ofcachupa(beanandcornstew) Souvenir T-shirt Bottle ofbeer 1L ofbottledwater 1L ofpetrol CVE650 Fresh grilled tunawithrice andchips CVE500 Woven basketfromSãoVicente Espresso coffee to Mindelo ontheovernightBerth ferry fromSal Taxi ride in Praia CVE4200 CVE80 CVE100 CVE50 CVE1000 CVE200 CVE80 www.lonelyplanet.com

20th century. At the same time,theisland’s 20th century.Atthesame beginning of acyclethatlasted wellintothe of thepopulation each time. Itwasonlythe killed some100,000people– more than40% In the100years from1773,three droughts Verde’ssulted inCape first recorded drought. vated bydeforestation andovergrazing, re- Francis Drake. ates, includinga1585raidbyEngland’s Sir toattractpir- enough had grownwealthy slave trade. Withinacentury,theislands forthetransatlantic and victuallingstation position madethemaperfect clearinghouse theislands’remoteHowever, yetstrategic provedafter theCaribbean soproductive. especially paidoff, never sugar plantations www.lonelyplanet.com Monte Trigo CAPE VERDE In 1747,changing patterns, weather aggra- Tarrafal da Garça Cruzinha Marocos (1767m) Ponta doSol Uninhabited Islands São Pedro Ribeira Torta

A Mindelo Santo Antão Ribeira Grande T Porto Novo Vicente Paúl Madeiral

São Cova Crater (1170m) Crater Cova Janela

B Ὀ

L Baia das Gatas

a Calhau Branco

r Ilhéu Fajã deÁgua A l

a Santa Luzia Brava

v Mt Verde(750m) Cachaço Ilhéu

e Raso

Praia deSalina S N

o da Prata Ribeira t Barril

a t Tarrafal São Jorge Vila de São Filipe v Sintra o Nova Furna

e T

n s

t São Nicolau o Fogo

( s Ribeira Brava

I W Nosso Senhora Mt Gordo (1312m) do Socorro ( Fajã Valley Fajazinha

L i

Mosteiros C n Juncalinho

Cova Figueira e

e d Mt Fogo

(2829m) w w Ribeira daBarca much as20%of GNP. andforeignitself, remittances accountforas land coastrivalthepopulationof Verde Cape Verdean communitiesalongtheNewEng- American whalingships.Even today,Cape islands, principallytoworkashired handson times. Toescapehunger, manymenleftthe times andoffered almostnohelpduring bad invested Verde littleinCape duringthegood trol over theslave trade. As aresult, Lisbon the Netherlandschallenged Portugal’scon- economic cloutfell Franceand asBritain, Mindelo, with its deep, protectedMindelo, withitsdeep, harbour, stopover water forcoal, andlivestock, and the 19thcentury.Itbecameanimportant advent of theoceanlineratendof Cp Verde Cape

a a Santo António

Cape Verde’sCape fortunes revived withthe r d (1394m)

Pico do d Tarrafal Assomada I

Fundura

s I

São Jorge l

s Cidade a

Velha

n Formosa a

Porto

d C n

Picos

Calheta

Santiago d )

CAPE VERDE •• History CAPE VERDE••History s

Pedra Badejo

São Domingos

E ) Vila doMaio PRAIA Calheta 30miles 50km 0 0 Morro Povoação Velha

Palmeira

To AfricanMainland (445km) A Maio Sal Rei

Rabil Cascabulho N Sal Maria Figueira daHorta Santa Santa Mónica Alcatraz Espargos Reguinho Fuira Pedra daLume Praia de Boa Vista Espingueira João Galego Cabeco de Tarafes

231 CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE wing dictator, AntóniodeSalazar,propped wing dictator, quishing theircolonies,Portugal’s right- Verdependência deCabo (PAICV). later renamed the Partido AfricanodaInde- Verdependência daGuinéeCabo (PAIGC), Marxist-inspired Partido AfricanodaInde- founded the bral (borninGuinea-Bissau) Verdean1956 Cape intellectual Amilcar Ca- lished ajointindependencemovement. In leaders of theyhadestab- Guinea-Bissau, ing onthemainland.Soon,together with becoming aware of thenationalismsimmer- literate Verdeansguese, Cape were gradually with 5%inGuinea-Bissau). of thepopulationcouldread (compared mainland colonies.Byindependence,25% cation, manygoingontohelpadministrate tury, aprivileged few received even anedu- inthemid-19thcen- colonies. Beginning than fellow Africansinother Portuguese was mixed race,theytended tofare better much of Verde’s Cape Because population Independence country’s economy. itremainsatlantic flights, of amainstay the long,trans- Sal in1948.Designedtoservice kind, openinganinternational airporton Verdethe oceanliner,Cape responded in cultural centre. Whentheairplanereplaced became theisland’snewcommercialand 232 As otherEuropeanpowers were relin- tothechagrinHowever, of thePortu- Old World markets. smallplanes loadedwithNew Worlddrugsheaded for another unpalatable trading partner: SouthAfrican airlines–for apretty that wouldservice profit,ofcourse.African airports stopforflightsbetweenAfrica,in 1948,wasakey Europe andtheAmericas,one ofthefew but onceagain,Cape Verde’s isolationproved profitable. whichopened The international airport, one oftheworld’slargest stations. coalandvictualling The airplane putoceanlinersuponblocks, Still,theislandsgotanother chance–theadvent into Portuguese. ofoceanlinersturnedMindelo the middleofAtlantic stationfortransatlanticships. madethem anidealvictualling on theslave trade, buttheislandsofCape Verde Their position in continuedtoplaytheirpart. launching pointforraidsonthemainland, aswellastaging pointforEuropean markets. money lay–theslaves themselves. ClosetoAfrica butsafely isolated, CidadeVelha wasanideal African aroundandrealised mainland toworktheirunprofitablelands,theylooked where thereal growing sugarcane–thedryseason proved too punishing. slaves Havingimported fromthe the firstsettlersarrived atCidadeVelha, theyrealised thattheywouldnever theirfortune make Since itsinception,Cape Verde hasmadealivingoutofitsvery isolation.Almostassoon THE MIDDLEOFEVERYWHERE CAPEVERDE••History These days,there isincreasing as afinestopping pointforyet talkthat the islandsserve With theslowdemise oftheslave trade,Cape Verde even becameanafterthought forthe stranglehold By the17thcentury,English,French thePortuguese andDutchhadbroken para aDemocracia(MPD).With a centre- Veigoyer Carlos tofoundtheMovimento 1990 the PAICV acquiesced, allowinglaw- calls foramultipartydemocracy, andin of itsfoodsupply. in acountrythatproducesonlyabout20% 85% of thefood deficit;theiraidcontinues this timetheUSAandPortugalcontributed struckagain.However, and in1985disaster ence didnotsolve theproblemof drought, tion programs.Unfortunately, independ- remarkably successfulhealthandeduca- it managed tolimitcorruption,instituting dustries andinstituted aone-partystate, thePAICVAlthough mostin- nationalised VerdeSinceIndependence Cape Guinea- endedtalks. Bissau ing thetwocountries,buta1980coupin considered seriously Guinea-Bissau unit- later.dependence ayear Verde Cape and Verdewith Cape finallygainingfullin- ofviolent demise itsdictatorship in1974, international scandalandleadtothenon- toward independence. Verdeansclass Cape remained lukewarm manymiddle- andindeed Guinea-Bissau, mostofHowever, tookplacein thefighting rica’s longest wars of independenceensued. greatness. Fromtheearly1960s,oneof Af- up hisregime withdreams of colonial By thelate 1980sthere were increasing Eventually, Portugal’swarbecamean www.lonelyplanet.com remain difficult. withoutfamilyabroad,conditionsthose VerdeanCape remain incremental, andfor improvements inthelives of the average nolongertainly animminentthreat, yet FamineWest Africanstandards. iscer- and thecountryremains prosperous by ism isthenation’smaingrowthindustry, cially undertheIMF’swatchful eye. Tour- is very shadesof much between grey, espe- 2006,thechoice forearly With electionsset VerdeToday Cape Fund (IMF)mandates. largely theresult of International Monetary prudent fiscalandeconomicmanagement – toadhereised tomore acentristpolicyof PAICV reclaimed power. Thistimeitprom- only slowresults andin2001, the however, vestment –especially intourism–brought andforeign1991 elections.Privatisation in- theMPDswepttopowerin eralisation, policyofright politicalandeconomiclib- www.lonelyplanet.com is not easy. Terracedis not easy. farmsrequire enor- Western counterparts, Verde life in Cape ers and professionals wholive like their for asmallclass ofExcept businessown- Daily Life that itentails. of,perhaps inpart because thehardships a great love of theirnative soil,despite, and community. cluding agrowing evangelical onattitudes, in- USA hasalsohad itsaffect cently, thehuge expatriate communityin the especially theirfoodandmusic. More re- Crioulo culture is,atitscore, African,citing VerdeansAfrica, yetCape willtell youtheir than inmostpartsof Portuguese-speaking most paths. tience andawell-timedsmilecan smooth pa- landlords.However, among Portuguese ofcause ahistory of Sicilian-styleven dettas as welleach other)andperhaps partlybe- of theislands’isolation(frommainland clannishness–partlyaresult even distance, gregarious, of youmaycatch whiff acertain come asawelcomerelief. Whilethey are of Verdeans hustleamong Cape willlikely If youarrive frommainlandAfrica,thelack NationalPsyche The CULTURE THE One thing is certain: the people possess thepeoplepossess One thingiscertain: The Europeanlegacyismore marked here arid Sal, Boa Vista andMaio.arid Sal,BoaVista grows, sodothe once-tinypopulationsof Nicolau, SantiagoandBrava. As tourism turally productive valleysof SãoAntão, most of which are clustered intheagricul- the populationlives largely insmalltowns, a populationof about75,000.Therest of São Vicente, isthesecond-largest city,with Mindelo,on theislandofnation’s capital. about halfagaininoraroundPraia, the the populationlives onSantiago, with pean andAfricandescent.About 40%of with apopulationof primarilymixed Euro- It’s alsotheonlycountryinWest Africa as welloneof thelowestgrowthrates. the longest life inWestAfrica, expectancy Verde’sCape populationof 445,000enjoys Population mortality. ofmalaria andcholeralevels tohigh infant drain ontheirmainlandneighbours, from other healthproblemsthatare aconstant time,theislandshavethe same eradicated alcoholism isamajor socialproblem.At terns thatdates tothe18thcentury. of slavery andmale-onlyemigrationpat- sist of singlemothers withchildren, alegacy percentage of con- wells. Ahigh households womentotingwater fromcommon larly see to water, israpidlymodernising,youregu- small. Whiletheinfrastructure, fromroads keeps yields andaridweather mous effort secondary schools isconsiderablyless. secondary age attend school, attendance though at rica. Virtuallyallchildren of primaryschool rate of inWestAf- 76%isalsothehighest Verde’s (US$1400).Cape per capita literacy Verde GNP byfarthehighest alsoboasts than thesub-SaharanAfricanaverage. Cape leapt from46years to70years, farhigher rica. From1975to2005,life expectancy VerdeCape comesoutontopinWestAf- beliefs of Christians. devout even Traces of African animism remain in the accounting forsome10% of thepopulation. Evangelical Protestantism ismakinginroads, America.culture as,for example,inLatin religion have inthe penetrated never asdeep therootsof though the Roman Catholic, The vastmajority ofVerdeans Cape are RELIGION Based on the UN’s quality-of-life index, ontheUN’squality-of-life Based VerdeansCape love their CAPE VERDE••TheCulture grogue

and 233 CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE mournful expressions of fiddle andguitar. the soundsof stringed instrumentslike the music: Verdeansong dominate traditionalCape types of oppression. Today, twokindsof form of protest against slavery andother Much of Verdean Cape asa musicevolved Music history of oppression. andanattempt tocome termssea witha ing and/orhomesickness),mysteries of the Arquipélago, ture, Jorge bestexpressed bypoet Barbosa’s identity. Themesof contemporary litera- of Verdeanto express Cape agrowingsense a literary journal, 1936, asmallcliqueof intellectuals founded nos Tavares lyrical (1867–1930)composed musician andnationalheroEugénio Poet, dean writingwasthelongingforliberation. independence, amajor Ver- themeinCape ary traditionisoneof therichest. Priorto tion of anycountryinWestAfrica,its liter- VerdeWhile Cape hasthesmallestpopula- Literature Verdeland ratherthanCape itself. objectsfromtheAfricanmain- shops sell awarefrom SãoVicente).thatmostcraft Be tiago andSantoAntão)batik(mainly tiago), matmaking(fromBrava, Fogo,San- Santo Antão),baskets (mainlyfromSan- Maio, Vista, (mainly fromBoa Santiagoand Traditional crafts includeweaving, ceramics Craftwork ARTS 234 Ildo Lobo, Exitos de Oroand FerroIldo Lobo, Exitos Gaita. for dancing. Current practitioners include and underpinned bythe accordion – great rhythms built onfast-paced, Latin-influenced ing tocontemporary ears. theyworktomakemusic, though itappeal- guardiansof traditional the self-appointed groupSimentera areforms. Theensemble most famouspractitioner of both these Évora( Cesária p240 ) ishandsdownthe moreor else active expressions of protest. contrast, tend toberomanticlove songs faster, more upbeatrhythms, quenchable longing,often forhome. With As thenamesuggests, A newer styleof music called in Crioulo rather than Portuguese. In inCriouloratherthanPortuguese. CAPEVERDE••Arts mornos remain constant: and Claridade, coladeiras, sodade whose goalwas whose bothbuilton sodade coladeiras, mornos –anun- funaná (long- mor- are in is (rice), they addrelative luxuries such as Tothese (beans) the ubiquitousstaples. with African base, and Alentejo wines, it’sbuilt onafirm nicetiessuch as importedPortuguese olives VerdeanWhile Cape cuisine mayinclude FOOD &DRINK menting amajor reforestation program. imple- dams, andsince the 1970shasbeen than 15,000contour ditches and2500kmof problems, thecountryhasconstructed more ing – mostlybygoats.Tocombatthese exacerbated bydeforestation andovergraz- remain andsoilerosion, cyclicaldrought The greatest threats totheenvironment Environmental Issues but inparticularfromMay toOctober. Nesting takesthe year, placethroughout the islandsontheirwayacross Atlantic. marine turtles.Five speciesof turtlesvisit cluding thenurse,tiger andlemon) and rays,sharks(in- and,withluck,manta eels and angelfish, groupers, barracudas,moray cluding tropicalspeciessuch asparrotfish withitsstridentcall. though grey-headed ismore kingfisher common are after much bytwitchers. sought The ate birdandtheextremely rare razolark number of endemics (38species).Thefrig- (around 75species),andincludesagood anywhere inAfrica. Birdlife isalittlericher VerdeCape haslessfaunathanjustabout Wildlife beaches anddesertlikesandy interiors. are flatter andalmostentirely arid,withlong, the landisarable. Maio, andSal Boa Vista windward-facing valleys.Still, only20%of fairly intensive agriculture, particularlyin moisture tosupportgrasslands,aswell with peaksover 1000m –catch enough Fogo, SantoAntãoandSãoNicolau–all islandsofmountainous Brava, Santiago, landscapes. Allare butthe aridorsemiarid, they represent awidearrayof climates and neighbour, than about50kmfromitsclosest of noneismore volcanicorigin.Though (nine of theminhabited) andfive islets,all VerdeCape consistsof 10major islands Land The ENVIRONMENT Divers agoodrange of cansee fish,in- batatas fritas milho (fried potatoes) and (fried potatoes) www.lonelyplanet.com (corn) and feijão arroz

and of beers andwines. Portuguese course, adecentbottledlocalbeer; honey); Ceris, goat cheese). pudim (papaya) andbanana,aswellflanlike cane spirit; are concoctionsof ( andsausage withafriedegg typically served while inthemorningit’soften and sautéed as it’sserved evening, bearound.Inthe fish ormeatthatmight and cornmixed withwhatever scrapsof ubi quitous significantly more). Theclassicdishisthe andshellfish, which cost (except forbeef place willrarely charge more thanCVE800 thefanciest pay lessthanCVE500,yeteven or French fries.Practicallynowhere willyou meal) andyourchoice of steamed vegetables fish, accompaniedbyriceor you go:apieceof grilledorfriedmeat stews), orsimplysteamed. (squash) –comein cenoura and excellent mandioca www.lonelyplanet.com Vista, two daily toFogo, three to Vista, weekly and Lisbon. There are to Boa daily flights and Air Sénégal, aswell as toAmsterdam toDakar viabothTACVnational flights main air hubfortheislands. Ithasinter- Praia’s airportis,together withSal’s,the AIR &Away There Getting Praia, itscapital. population, most of whomlive inornear halfofIt’s alsohometonearly thecountry’s interior.ward valleysandamountainous beaches, desertlike plains, verdant, wind- lation of allthe otherislands,withsandy the first Santiagoisa recapitu- tobesettled, The largest memberof thearchipelago and SANTIAGO (goat), ovos (lobster). Otherprotein sourcesinclude serra cachupa guisada For drinks,there’s Meals tend tobevery simplewherever carne devaca (eggs) and,inincreasing(eggs) rarity, (sawfish) and,mostfamously, (sawfish) of either frango (carrots), atum (cassava). From the sea come (cassava). Fromthesea cachupa, (chicken), ponch (tuna), leite ). For sweet tooths,). Forsweet there (beef). Vegetables(beef). –often couve (rum,lemonadeand caldeirada which consistsof beans cóco (milk)or grogue, cachupa fresca garoupa (kale)and porco (coconut), thelocalsugar- (grilledpork) xerém (meat orfish queijo (grouper), abóbora (corn- cabrito lagosta papaia (stew), (soft

mation, see mation, see p253 . elo viaSãoNicolau.Formore ferry infor- se p254). (see Marisol hasreasonable cars atgoodprices quarter of the nation’s population. political centre and home tomore than a Today the cityistheeconomic aswellthe infrastructure that hasnotalways kept pace. erable growth sinceindependence, withan able port.Thecity hasundergone consid- onallsides,yetstoodnexttoaservice- cliffs Platô, bycontrast, wasprotected bysteep tlement, proved vulnerabletopirates. Praia’s tury after CidadeVelha, the island’sfirst set- administrative headquarters inthe18thcen- and military Praia becamethe Portuguese History Platô) large fortresslike plateau (hence thename few saving graces.Thetown’s centre, ona havetive itdoes a norparticularlyclean, quickly andthenmove on.Neitherattrac- is agoodplacetofinishyour business Verde’sCape andlargest capital city, Praia, pop 78,000 PRAIA Private MINIBUS Alucar CAR Around Getting Verde)Guiné-Cabo Polar BOAT more informationsee p253 . lastslongertic flight than45minutes. For dailytoMindeloandSal.Nodomes- flights toSãoNicolauandup10 daily flights Maio, toSantoAntão, weekly oneflight scale restaurants andhotels are clustered. beaches, aroundwhich mostof thecity’sup- toration. There are alsotwodecenttown of of colonialbuildingsinvariousstates res- Sal and Boa Vista. Sal andBoa toFogoandBrava, offers regular service cost CVE350. ataround9.30amand part dailystarting town centre. headedtoTarrafal Those de- down thenorthwestsideof Platô,Praia’s towns leave fromSucupiraMarket, just

( ( overlooking theocean,hasanumber % % aluguer 2-614520; fax2-614900) 2-615223; Av Verde) UnidadeGuiné-Cabo heads twice weekly toMind- headstwiceweekly (forhire) tomost minibuses STM SANTIAGO ••Praia

( % 2-321179; Av Unidade , neartheHotel 235

CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE Praia 236

Branca

4 6 1 3 2 5 Terra PRAIA

Velha (10km) (700m); Cidade To BonbaH Branca Terra SANTIAGO••Praia

Rua da Asse da Rua Rua da Rua

Verdean Tours...... Swiss Consulate...... Spanish HonoraryConsulate...... Sofia Café...... Senegalese Embassy...... Praiatur ...... Portuguese Embassy...... National TouristOffice...... Main PostOffice...... Italian Consulate...... Hospital...... French Embassy...... DHL...... (see 9) Cabetur ...... Banco Interatlântico...... American Embassy...... INFORMATION Fotia Imgain...... C6 Fronteiras(Immigration)...... Direcção deEmigracâoe

mbleia Santo António 43

AC Rua Saúde Rua

Rua 13 de Janeiro de 13 Rua Achada de Nacio 25 Achadinha 32 17 34 Assembly

National nal Várzea 9 Quebra- Canela Beach Palácio do Governo 45 To Trinidade 39 10 (11km) 24

27 Ruta 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

Rua da Prainha 29 Av Cidade de Lisboa 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

C6 C6 B5 C6 D5 da C5 B5 A5 C6 B5 D5 B5 C6 C6 D5

14 Trindade Rua do Mar do Rua Temerosa Prainha Ponta Beach Prainha

Fazenda Supermercado Felicidades...... Supermercado Felicidades...... Sofia Café...... B5 Restaurante Panorama...... (see18) Restaurante Gamboa...... Restaurante FlordeLys...... O Poeta...... Natura...... Casa Canarias...... Bar-Restaurante AFalésia...... Residencial SolAtlántico...... Residencial SantaMaria...... Residencial Paraiso...... Hotel PraiaMar...... Hotel PestanaTrópico...... Hotel Felicidade...... Aparthotel Holanda...... EATING SLEEPING

Trinidade B 19

Gamboa Beach da Ruta

Church To SãoDomingos(26km); Rua Assomada (38km);

See Enlargement Tarrafal (67km)

Praia Che Rua 37

Port 23 -Guev

Albuquerque a Platô ra 13 Alexandre 2 0 0 Praça

Vila Nova

32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 Trinidad Av Mac Church A5 C6 C5 D5 B5 C5 A5 B6 C6 C5 D5 B6 B5 C6 A4 44

Av Unidade Market Rua António Mena hado Rua Serpa Pinto River San 3 TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING CulturalInstitute)...... Alkimist...... 5al daMúsica...... TAP (AirPortugal)...... TACV...... STM...... Polar...... Minibus Stop&Taxis...... Minibus Station...... (see37) Alucar...... Air SénégalInternational...... Sucupira Market...... Cine-Teatro...... tos C6 TACV HeadOffice...... Centro CulturalFrancês(French 15 Rua do Porto Guiné-Cabo Verde 40 Av 26 31 4 Rua Tenente35 Valadim Amilcar Francisco (16km) To São 16 36 Coqueiro

30 Cabral

Grande Achada 0.3miles 500m 0 0

To Port 11 (400m) Rua 11 Maio 22 42 Praça 8 18 Av 5 0.1 miles de Julho do 28

38 Aer 33 200 m Av Eduardo Mondlane

Rua da Achada oporto www.lonelyplanet.com Rua Abilio Macedo Abilio Rua 41 Ὀ 21 Grande 12 1 Av

Domingos Rua 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 D Ramos Platô Mártires de Pidjiguiti Police Praça

Can 6 A4 A5 C6 D5 C6 B4 D5 C4 C5 C6 A5 D5

dido

dos Airport Reis good Portuguese-language bookstore onthegroundfloor. good Portuguese-language Assembly. your bestbet isatravel agency. for practical information and reservations, be ableto answersomequestions, though Medical Fire EMERGENCY Sofia Café BOOKSHOPS Information of embassies. tels andrestaurants, aswell a number area knownasPrainha,with pricierho- found. Duesouthof Platôisthebeachfront ment buildingandsomeembassiesare also ada deSantoAntónio,where theparlia- the more residential affluent, area of Ach- Grande andtheport;tosouthwest, cial districtof Fazenda; totheeastAchada land below:tothenorthiscommer- Around Platô,thetowntumblesonto Orientation www.lonelyplanet.com The TOURIST INFORMATION DHL of themain The postofficeis situated three blockseast POST Verde EconómicadoCabo Caixa Banco Interatlântico at thefollowingbanks,bothinPlatô: quérque. Youcanchange travellers cheques pecially aroundPraçaAlexandre Albu- There are ATMs thecity,es- throughout MONEY Hospital MEDICAL SERVICES Sofia Cafés city, andcostCVE150toCVE200perhour. Internet cafésare springinguparoundthe ACCESSINTERNET Police [email protected]; Rua daAssembleiaNacional) [email protected]; two inPlatô. quérque) ThetwomostpleasantInternetcafésare these Amilcar Cabral) main hospitalislocatedinPlatô,eastofPraça11 Maio. ( ( national tourist office national tourist % % ( %

( assistance 131) 2-623124; Av Oua)Acrossfromthe National % (PraçaAlexandre Albuquérque)Hasasmallbut 132) (Praça 11 Maio &PraçaAlexandre Albu- (Praça 11Maio 2-612462; Av dePidjiguiti) Thecity’s Mártires praça ( % (parkorsquare). ( % 130) 2-618430; Av AmilcarCabral) ( % ( % 2-624110; cvinvest 2-624110; cvinvest 2-603560; Av may hotmail.com; Av Verde; UnidadeGuiné-Cabo rCVE6000) Rua do Mar; s/d CVE10,800/13,500; s/dCVE10,800/13,500; Rua doMar; views. someroomshavetained; verandas andsea this ’60s-styleplaceiscleanandwell main- s/d withbathroomCVE2300/3500) Saúde; s/dwithbathroomCVE2700/3500; .com; Rua do Mar; s/d from CVE9800/12,100; s/dfromCVE9800/12,100; .com; RuadoMar; and surprisinglyremoved fromthebustle. end of Platô,thisplaceisclean,pleasant, r CVE4200; r CVE4200; Hotel PraiaMar Hotel TOP END SantaMaria Residencial MIDRANGE Holanda Aparthotel BUDGET digs intherest of thecountry. expect topayup50%more thansimilar Accommodation inPraiaisexpensive – Sleeping Verdean Tours Praiatur Cabetur norm of around CVE600 per dish.For a thanthe national prices tend tobe higher The foodscene inPraiaislimited, and Eating with bathroom CVE2000/2700; with bathroomCVE2000/2700; andre Albuquérque;s/dwithoutbathroomCVE1400/2200, breakfast available. Nocramped andnotwellmaintained. and ascheap asPraia gets, butroomsare Breakfast extra. roomsinthispricerange.the mostpleasant de SantoAntónio,thisDutch-run hotel has of section Achadalocated inanunpleasant all withlarge balconiesandoceanviews. dress, withlarge, luxurious rooms,almost onthewater,right thisisthecity’s topad- rooms have views. sea renovated –includingnewbathrooms.Some Rooms are smallandexpensive, but newly yard withalarge poolandoceanviews. withallamenities,including a court- Beach Another luxuryoption justabove Prainha Hotel FelicidadeHotel Residencial SolAtlántico Residencial Residencial Paraiso Residencial Hotel Pestana Trópico Hotel ( ( % a % 26 1 55 51; Rua Serpa Pinto)26 15551;RuaSerpa ) 2 615746;Av AmilcarCabral) Good value by Praia standards, GoodvaluebyPraiastandards, (

% ( %

2 60 82 80; Rua Serpa Pinto)2 608280;RuaSerpa

2-613777; praiamar@cvtelecom 2-613777; praiamar@cvtelecom .cv; ( % (

SANTIAGO ••Praia % (

% (

% 2-623973; fax2-623710;Rua ( % 2-600246; hotelfelicidade@

2-613539; Rua Serpa Pinto;2-613539; RuaSerpa ( 2-614337; Rua Serpa Pinto;2-614337; RuaSerpa % a At the leafy north Attheleafy 2-614200; www.pest ana pais 2-612872; PraçaAlex- ) Welllocated pais a ) Though Though ) 237 Set Set

)

CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE Beach, is alow-key but popular hangout. Beach, supermarket intown. Pinto) –it’sthebest and Platô(RuaSerpa Felicidade inAchada de SantoAntónio mostmornings. served lunch ordinner,but toanaturalfoodstore.café attached No CVE800; evening beer.evening terrace –anothergoodspotforan seaside Attractive, upmarket restaurant witha gredients make thisthecity’stopchoice. (a rarityinPraia)andthefreshest, bestin- cional; mains from CVE850) cional; mainsfromCVE850) CVE600) to CVE200. andhamburgerssandwiches forCVE100 andre toasted Albuquérque,which sell cheap quickie,trykiosksonPraçaAlex- 238 (Rua da Prainha) the outdoor patioof Sofia Café. asis beer, excellent placesforanevening andBar-RestauranteO Poeta AFalésia are The terraces of Panorama, Restaurante Drinking CVE300. foraround andsausage, maize witheggs Verdeanthe classicCape dishof sautéed get aheapingplate of goodespresso,seating, andyou canalways pensive, outdoor butthiscaféhaspleasant menu here isquite limited andratherex- CVE750) evening beer.evening boa andtheoceanmakes afinespotforan dishes. Theterrace overlooking Praia Gam- Verdeanif priceyCape andinternational goodHotel Felicidade, thisplaceserves CVE850) Canary Islands. Canary service canbeindifferent. service that Beware andbeseen. the placetosee side terrace is overlooking OPoeta thesea, standards. tive décor,andgood valuebyPraia enough For self-catering, gotoSupermercado For self-catering, Natura Casa Canarias Canarias Casa Restaurante Gamboa Restaurante Restaurante FlordeLys Restaurante Bar-Restaurante AFalésia Bar-Restaurante Sofia Café Sofia Café Restaurante Panorama Restaurante O Poeta SANTIAGO••CidadeVelha Simplebutdeliciouscuisinefromthe Withrenowned andacliff- seafood Goodpastries,decentmeals,attrac- h

(Platô; noon-3pm, 7-11pm) (Rua daAssembleiaNacional;mainsfrom (Praça 11 Maio; mainsfromCVE750) (Praça 11Maio; , just up from Quebra-Canela , just upfrom Quebra-Canela h (Achada deSantoAntónio;mainsfrom Mon-Sat 9am-6pm)

cachupa (Rua 19 de Maio; mainsfrom (Rua 19deMaio; On thetopfloorof

(Av 5deJulho;mains from (Rua daAssembleiaNa- Excellent service service Excellent cachupa guisada,

(mains CVE800-1200) (CVE250)is A pleasant Apleasant Alkimist Alkimist The

cony seats. cony seats. Tickets costCVE250/400 fornormal/bal- subtitles).wood films(withPortuguese City’) haswon Unesco World Heritage sta- from Praia, Cidade Velha (literally ‘Old 15kmDramatically situated onthe sea, CIDADE VELHA António, forexample, foraboutCVE200. can gofromPlatô toAchado deSanto Taxies are plentiful andinexpensive –you TAXI the windshields. from CVE70.Destinations are marked on ofall sections the city;shortjourneyscost connectPlatôwith Small Transcorbuses BUS service. around CVE400.There isnoregular bus fromtheairporttoPlatô (5km)costs A taxi AIRPORT THE TO/FROM Around Getting For more information,see p235 . &Away There Getting Cine-Teatro CINEMAS 5al daMúsica LIVE MUSIC Entertainment current schedules. aswellliveseries performances.Check for live musicfromaround10.30pm. the bestlocalmusic,headhere mostnights Guiné-Cabo Verde)Guiné-Cabo Centro Cultural Francês Cultural Centro refreshments. at present you’llstillneedtobringyourown large, British-runhotel isintheworks,but two hoursonthebeach).At writing,a ataxi (CVE3000 return,take withatleast can alsohitch(easiest or onweekends) the return tripcaninvolve longwaits. You (CVE200), though bus fromSucupiraMarket ofPraia. Youreach16km northeast themby the islandofSantiagoare atSãoFrancisco, The best beaches onthesouthernsideof SÃO FRANCISCOBEACHES

(Praça 11deMaio)

( HostsFrench-language film % 2-617282; Av AmilcarCabral) Usually shows Holly-

www.lonelyplanet.com ( % 2-611196; Av Unidade For and the ruins of the move shoptoPraia. to forcedthePortuguese 1585 –eventually destructive visitfromSirFrancis Drake in bypirates –includingaparticularly Raids slave forthetransatlantic ling station trade. andkey victual- wealthy asaclearinghouse tropics. Foundedin1462,thecitybecame tus asthefirst inthe Europeansettlement www.lonelyplanet.com is hometothe hike the surroundingmountains. through to António (1394m),makingagood base row plainwithfineviewsontoPico deSanto occupiesanar-not particularlybeautiful, António. Thetownof Assomada, though doPicodeSanto volcanic peaksof theSerra interior, hometofertile valleysandthesharp, plains graduallygive waytothe mountainous Heading inlandfromPraia,thedesertlike ASSOMADA head downintothe valley. and walk northfrom town, thenturnright years old.Head for BoaEntrada,ashort silk cottontree to besome500 thought Just northof townisamonstrouslylarge about theplantandbirdlife of theislands. itisagood placetolearn the mainroad, gardens).Situated about2.3km off tanical (CVE250) leave from Sucupira Market ontoPico deSantoAntónio.with vistas views) andarooftopwith mountain terrace rooms(some new hotel with comfortable Avenida Hotel theusualfare (mains fromCVE700). serves basic roomsanda downstairs restaurant that hour ortwotovisitthesites. CVE3000 forareturn trip,includingan can involve alongwait.Taxis charge about isnotregular, andthereturn trip service leave fromSucupiraMarket. However, Real deSãoFilipe Real fort, up tothedramatic,cliffside months. views, take thetrail Forsweeping rigation, remains green inthedriest even the mouthof acanyonthat,thankstoir- and thesea the town’spositionbetween and displayed.Perhaps more impressive is where enslaved captives were chained up Remains fromitsheydayincludethe Picos, thetownjustsouthof Assomada, Asa Branca Asa In Praia, minibuses forAssomadaIn Praia, minibuses Buses fromPraia(CVE80, 20minutes)Buses pillory

cathedral ( ( % % . ontheoldtownsquare Jardim BotanicoNacional 2-651195; rCVE1500) 2-653468; s/dCVE3000/3200) , constructed in1693, hasclean, Fortaleza Fortaleza (bo- isa Marina beach. pricesare However, high. viewsonto the cuisine, as wellpleasant quantities of simple but deliciouslocal cony andviewsontothebeach. value, particularlyifyouget onewith abal- Rooms are basicbutlarge, clean andgood 6pm) CVE3200) grub atsignificantly lower prices. Verde views. sea and minibar;some have balconiesand/or telephone roomswithTV, plus comfortable courtyardwithbarandpool, has apleasant abuses. abuses. remains ahauntingreminder of colonial Baía Verde Sleeping &Eating SolMarina Hotel and snorkel rental, head totheItalian-run Forwatersports,firm noes. includingboat for afew escudos;beready of withalitany town, packsof boysare likely tohityouup trail tothenorthmakes forafinestroll.In beach isshortbutlovely, andacliff-side ATMs andafew Internet caféshere. The asanopenmarket; you’llalsofind serves biscus-lined mainsquare, southside whose hi- hasapleasant, southeast. Thetownitself ite getaway fromPraia,some70kmtothe and coolingbreezes, Tarrafal isafavour- With asmallbutfinewhite-sand beach TARRAFAL most frequent before 8.30am. is Notemain highway. thatreturn service back toPraia,wave downaminibusonthe heading around9.30am.Forbuses starting It’s nowa Verde. andCape inGuinea-Bissau struggles especially briskduringtheindependence prisoners duringthe1940s;businesswas toholdandinterrogateties used political former is included. from themainbeach. Aheartybreakfast clustered underagrove of palmsjustback each withbathroomandsmallporch, are r CVE5000; r CVE5000; Hotel TarrafalHotel Dining options are limited. About 2kmbefore thetowncentre isthe Hotel SolMarina Hotel , and although not well maintained, it notwellmaintained, , andalthough

(mains from CVE800) (mains fromCVE800)

Simplebutattractive bungalows, (mains fromCVE450) prison as

( % museum , where authori- Portuguese 2-661128; fax2-661414;rinclbreakfast ) SANTIAGO ••Assomada ( Tarrafal’s option high-end %

( 2-661219) %

(admission CVE100; (admission CVE100; ( % 2-661785; fax2-661787; serves upgenerous serves serves up similar serves 2-661219; rCVE2200) . Hotel Baía Hotel Hotel Sol Hotel h 9am- 239

CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE walk from downtown. See also walk fromdowntown.See p253 . other islands,check at theferry port,ashort to to/from PraiaviaSãoNicolau.For service cost CVE800. daily toSal.Taxis toandfromtheairport to andfromPraiatwothree flights each way).Alternatively, there are (CVE1200 return) (CVE1500 andCalhau includingtripstoMonte Verdeis bytaxi, The mostconvenient wayaroundtheisland Around Getting including dailyboatstoSantoAntão. Ferries connectMindelowithmostislands, BOAT TACV AIR &Away There Getting ing island,SantoAntão. as wellacrosstothepeaksof neighbour- fine beaches andCalhau, of das Gatas Baia entire island,fromthelunarinterior tothe viewsover sweeping summit affords the peakandonlytouch ofhighest green. Its delo isMonte Verde (750m),theisland’s Verde’s prettiest city.Loomingover Min- is theunlikely home toMindelo,Cape andmountainous, Small, stark São Vi cente SÃO VICENTE 8am, youmaybeinforalongwait. end of thecentralpark.Again, after about Tarrafal, leave minibuses fromthewestern waitscanbelong.From to noon–otherwise is mostfrequent fromabout10am service two hours) departfromSucupiraMarket; fromPraia(CVE350;aroundMinibuses &Away There Getting 240 de Julho) known toappear onstage accompanied by abottleof booze anda pack ofciggies. native infavour ofParis, Mindelo diva’ refuses butthe‘bare-foot to putonairs,andhas been the rhythms ofCape Verde’s music,even iftheycouldn’t pointitouton amap.Shehas left her top awards, includingtopfemale vocalist.Suddenly peoplearoundthe worldwere swaying to in 1997when,atthe secondannualall-African musicawards,sheranaway withthree ofthe direct. Shebegan togainaninternational audience inthemid-1990s,butvaulted tostardom Évora continuesto wow theworldwithavoicethatisat once denselytextured anddisarmingly Undisputed queenofthe CESÁRIA ÉVORA SÃOVICENTE••Mindelo

( % alsooffers regular, boats twice-weekly 2-321524) has six to 10 flights daily has sixto10flights morno (mournful songs)and Cape Verde’s mostfamouscitizen, Cesária aluguers STM

(Av 5

a singlesite onPraçaAmilcarCabral. areThe phoneandpostoffices combinedin POST &TELEPHONE Económica Caixa Banco ComercialdoAtlântico MONEY GlobalNet ACCESSINTERNET Information ing holes. number of sophisticated bistrosandwater- supporta on theirwaytotheCaribbean), travellers downfromEurope (manysailing presso. locals,plusasteady Savvy flowof place tohear of andmusicians,it’sstillafine poets tural centre, producingmore thanitsshare prosperity. remains thesourceof thecity’srelative a key forBritishshipsand coalingstation port, which inthelate 19thcenturywas industrialbend isthecountry’sdeepest in apeacefulharbour. Safely arounda colonial buildingsandyachts bobbing with cobblestonestreets, candy-coloured Verde’s answertotheRiviera,complete by barren Mindelo is Cape mountains, aroundamoon-shaped portandringed Set pop 50,000 MINDELO volve longwaits. isirregular andcanin- Note thatservice Praça Estrela. BothcostaroundCVE250. thatleavebro, andtoCalhau fromnearthe about attheeastern endof Av 12Septem- thatleave dasGatas to Baia fromtheround- d’Africa) HasanATM.d’Africa) midnight) Mindelo has long been thecountry’scul- Mindelo haslongbeen (RuadeTejo; perhrCVE150; morno (Av 5deJulho)HasanATM. whiledowninganes- www.lonelyplanet.com (Rua de Libertad (RuadeLibertad h 8am- 325840; admissionfree) exhibitions of localartsandculture, acafé, bour isthe barren lands.Atthe har-from seemingly Verdeansthat Cape manage tobringforth municipal cil. Nearbyistherecently restored astheisland’sgoverning coun- now serves Presidente runs fromtheharbourto d’Africa,whicharound RuadaLibertad The colonialheartof thecityiscentred Sights &Activities Avbour, justoff Marginal. There isasmalltouristkiosknearthe har- TOURIST INFORMATION www.lonelyplanet.com Mindelo 4 1 3 2 MINDELO SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Taxi Stand...... Aluguers toCalhau...... Souvenirs ArteAfricana...... Arte Crioula...... Syrius...... Cine EdenPark...... Café Musique...... Café Lisboa...... Restaurante ChezLoutcha...... (see15) Restaurant Nella's...... (see19) C3 Chave d'OuroPensâo...... (see13) Casa CaféMindelo...... Residencial NovoHorizonte...... Residencial Jenny...... Pensão ChezLoutcha...... Hotel PortoGrande...... Chave d'OuroPensão...... Aparthotel Avenida...... Torre deBelem...... Palácio dePresidente...... Fish Market...... Centro CulturaldoMindelo...... Tourist Information...... TACV...... Public Telephones...... (see5) Post Office...... Portuguese Consulate...... GlobalNet...... Caixa Económica...... Banco ComercialdoAtlântico..... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING , agreat theproduce placetosee , apinkcolonialconfection that AC Centro Cultural doMindelo Cultural Centro Porto Grande , which houses changing, which houses 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 D3 C4 D2 D2 D2 D1 D3 C3 D3 B1 D4 D2 C3 C2 C4 D3 C4 C3 C2 C3 C2 C2 C3 C2 C3 To Port(150m) (1km) Prainha Laginha Ferries (150m); To Port(150m); Alto

Sâo

Av Marginal

Palácio de Nicol ὈὈ ὈὈ

mercado au 16

Rua Santo António ( % Santo Antão Porto Grande Ferry to (20km) Jetty Wharf 2- To Airport (10km) 11 Police Jetty Música (see p242 ). Every August,the Verde’sCape mostextravagant In February andMarch, Mindeloputson Festivals &Events clear.crystal looking silos,butitswaters are cleanand town beach. Itmayberinged byindustrial- you reach road, ing about1kmnorthviathecoastal is thecity’sphotogenic guards Lisbon’sport.Justpastthetower version of the15th-centurytowerthat fortresslike store. Juttingoutintotheharbouris a craftshop andagoodbookmusic 9 7

Rua São João ὈὈ ὈὈ

25 Av Estrela Marginal attractsmusiciansof allstylesfrom

Praça Rua

Rua Christiano Angola To Restaurante Amizade Barcelos de Sena (1km); Calhau (18km) Rua da Luz Rua Mozambique 8

Rua Santo António Prainha Laginha Clothes Market 18 12 Torre deBelem Torre

2 Rua de Libertad d'Africa Libertad de Rua 1 3 Av 5 De Julho Rua da Moeda SÃO VICENTE••Mindelo Rua de Tejo

6 13 Travessa do Cadamostro do Travessa Rua Suburbana Town Hall 4 19 200m 0.1miles 0 0 Municipal Amilcar 5 Mercado Cabral Praça Rua Jaime Mota Rua Unidade Africana Av 5 de Julho

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Rua W Rua 20

23 Rua Henrique Sena Camóes Rua 24 14

Rua 17 illiam du Bois du illiam

Rua Argélia , thevery pleasant –akitschy, 1920s de fish market 21 Coco 22 15

Av 12 de Setembro de 12 Av Rua Eduardo Mondlane Rua Senador Veracruz Av Fernando Ferreira Fortes Ferreira Fernando Av Rua Luis Terry 10 D

26 Av Baltazar Lopes da Silva

Rua Guerra Mendes Regala Dr Pracinha

(6km); Baia des Fanon Franz Rua Av Capitão Ambrosio Capitão Av Gatas (15km) Festival de Mardi Gras Mardi To MtVerde Rua Domingos Ramos Rua Lopes da Silva Guiné-Bissau . Head-

Lombo Av Capitão T Duarte Hospital Park 241 Rua da Paz

CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE place equally good for eating oridling. place equallygood foreating Verdean classics with aEuropeantouch –a Rua de Coco; s/d CVE2400/3000; Rua deCoco;s/dCVE2400/3000; offer fineviewsof theharbour. able, ifcharacterless, butsomeroomsdo the ferry dock,thisnewpension iscomfort- ond floor. Allhave shared bathrooms. basic roomsundertheatticeaves onthesec- ceilingsonthefirstwith high floor,andtiny fashioned pensionoffers large ifbasicrooms decrepitslightly Mindeloclassic, this old- around CVE1500perperson. (18km fromMindelo)for beach atCalhau lunchbuffet andtraditionalmusic)tothe excursions (includingtransport, half-day in Mindelo. OnSunday,thehotel arranges rooms, thisplacemakes agreat camp base restaurant andattractive, well-appointed sweets, sweets, coffee and Afro-European–style caféserves ing acrossfrom the harbour,thisstylish, h Av 5deJulho;s/dCVE3200/4300) @cvtelecom.cv; ing room of thehotel of name. thesame Mindelo Café Casa Eating VeraSenador Cruz;s/dincl breakfast CVE1600/2000) s/d CVE1700/2000) attic roomss/dCVE1000/1300, Pensão ChezLoutcha Sleeping ture of dancing,singingandgrog. around theislands,offering aheadymix- 242 the townandharbour. pointed roomswithbalconiesandviews of ments are alsoavailable fromCVE5500. apart- and harbourviews.Self-catering roomswith versmall butcomfortable andas (CVE500) amongotherlocal favourites. rooms,butthepriceisright. clean, ifstuffy, this standby serves agood serves this standby CVE350-400) CVE500) & harbourviewsCVE4200/4900) withair-con AltoSãoNicolau; s/dCVE3100/3700, telecom.cv; as PraçaAmilcarCabral;s/dCVE11,600/14,500; telecom.cv; Chave d’OuroPensão Chave Residencial Novo Horizonte Novo Residencial Grande Porto Hotel Aparthotel Avenida Aparthotel Residencial Jenny Jenny Residencial Chave d’OuroPensão Chave Restaurante Chez Loutcha Restaurante 8am-midnight) SÃOVICENTE••AroundSãoVicente Occupyingaonce-grand diningroom, ) The city’stopoptionoffers well-ap- grogue Very in thedin- good food served and Set inalovely Set colonialbuild-

(Rua Santo António; mains from CVE500; (Rua SantoAntónio;mainsfromCVE500; cerveja cerveja

( ( % (

% %

( ( % (Av 5deJulho;mainsfrom % 2 328969;hstaubyn@cv Set on ahillabove Set 2-323435; aparthtlavenida 2-321636; fax2-321635; a 2-327050; Av 5deJulho; 2-323190; pgrande@cv (beer), and Cape andCape (beer),

(Rua deCoco; mains ( ) % cachupa fresca Withagood 2 323915;Rua Offers Offers Basic Basic A

baskets. ofselection batiks,jewellery, clothes and itprobablyhasthebest to Syriusnightclub, d’Africa) fruit liquors from SanAntaõ. pots andfigurines, aswellpostcardsand of clay selection batiks,rugsandtapestries, lands Santo Antão and Santa Luzia, headto lands SantoAntão and Santa São Vicente aswell astheneighbouring is- For panoramic viewsof Mindeloandall of AROUND SÃOVICENTE Crioula Arte Shopping for itslive musicandbonhomie. is one screening Justaround thecorner nightly. ( On onesideof thesquare is off andflirtunderthespreading acaciatrees. whereAmilcar Cabral, theysit, stroll,show headforPraça streets, andtheyinevitably Evening breezes bringpeople outintothe Entertainment when there’s live music. Verdean dishes.Wellworththesurcharge excellent, ifpricey,French-infected Cape up lonial building,therestaurant serves nights. Trythetiny nights. ( above uplive musiconsome ) alsoserves Nella’s Restaurant music onweekend nights. chilled-out lounge feel, andsometimeslive Mindelo( Café Casa the evenings, left ) has a the city’sperennially fashionable disco. In from CVE750) from CVE750) sique the street of andupaflight stairs to % Syrius Restaurant Nella’s Restaurant Souvenirs Arte Africana Africana Arte Souvenirs only onthecelebrationdays. The fancifulcostumes,however, are worn fortheprocession.ous groupspractising vance andonSundaysyoucanseethevari- Preparations begin several monthsinad- arethe islands,thoseatMindelo thebest. celebrations andparadesare heldallover when theislandsare mostcrowded).While time tobeinCape Verde (thoughit’salso Mardi Gras(usuallyinFebruary) isagreat MINDELO’S MARDI GRAS 2-325354; admissionfromCVE200)

(Rua Libertad d’Africa) (Rua Libertad foranespresso orgoacross orbeer,

(Rua Patrice Lumumba; admissionfromCVE300)

Set upstairs inacharming co- Set (Rua Camóes)

(Rua Libertad d’Africa; mains d’Africa; (Rua Libertad Thishasquite agood , aperennial favourite Café Lisboa Café (Rua Camóes) www.lonelyplanet.com , withatleast Cine EdenPark Nextdoor (Rua Libertad (Rua Libertad Café Mu- Café ,

return. drivering atimewiththesame foryour CVE1200 each way);considerarrang- stop). Oryoucanarrange (around ataxi Estrela (CVE200,askaroundforexact delo. Irregular weekend getaway 18kmsoutheastof Min- trails. Just the spectacular 36kmcarride trails. Justthespectacular or more networkof onthewell-developed with hikers (see below ) who spendaweek it’sperenniallyMindelo, though popular from applestosugarcane. tudes andmoisture yieldeverything levels, defying farmsthat,thankstovaryingalti- Many hillshave turnedintogravity- been covered peakstolush,tropicalcanyons. barren, volcanicflatstocedar- andpine- adizzyingarrayofpasses landscapes,from its mostspectacular, Santo Antão, encom- Verde’sCape greenest island,andarguably SANTO ANTÃO CVE1200 return). fromMindeloisyourbestbet(around taxi cling toitsrockysides.There are a nobuses; of because thecloud-fedtain’) lichen that itsname(literallyit earns ‘green moun- MtVerde www.lonelyplanet.com Many visitors comeondaytripsfrom The island’sbestbeaches are at taxi to wait for you ahead of time (around CVE2500). oftime(aroundCVE2500). taxi towaitforyouahead Paúl and Janela(6km) isespecially impressive. Janela. The coastalonghere isdramatic, withsheercliffs andcrashing sea. The legbetween island road. you reach Cova Crater (1170m), withitsfascinatingpatchworkoffarms. Nearby isthetrans- village where muchofCape Verde’s through verdant standsofbananas andfieldsofsugarcaneuntil youreach Passagem, a pretty Novo.road, where GrandeorPorto youcanhitchtoRibeira atleasthalfaday. The takes hike views (ifyouaren’tspectacular roadwillleadyoutothetransisland clouded in).Eventually, adirt more toreach theisland’s mountainousspine,whichrecompenses youwithcoolingbreezes and fields andpasttraditionalstonefarmhouses. Soonenoughitturnssteep asyoupuffforan houror Grande.southeast ofthetownRibeira youthroughcultivated Initially,theslopeisgentleand takes on thetrans-islandroad.Fromhere youcanhitcharideonpassing tend tobeginconsider hiringaguide;thegoingrate perday.Hikes orend isaroundCVE2000 a hiker’s paradise.a hiker’s Ifpossible,getholdof the Dramatic canyons,highcentralpeaksandadizzyingvarietyofmicroclimates SantoAntão make HIKING SANTOANTÃO The is upthestunning classichike Another popular hike is along the northeast coastal road from Ribeira Grande toPaúl coastal roadfromRibeira isalongthe northeast Another popular hike and Behind thetownof Paúl looms thenarrowbutspectacular (750m).SãoVicente’s peak, highest aluguers leave fromPraça Calhau grogue Ribeira Grandevalley , a (spiritmadefromsugar cane)isdistilled.Eventually Glodstadt Wanderkarte afternoon boat. to return toPortoNovo intime forthe that leave RibeiraGrandeataround3pm own a singleday,yourbestbetistohire your alotof theislandin If youwanttosee Around Getting toSãoVicente. flights Praia andweekly TACV &Away There Getting is worththetrip. the island’scentralridge toRibeiraGrande from theferry landingatPorto Novo over ing DecemberandJanuary. Crossings are dur- short,butcanberough more limited onWednesdayandSunday. maybe on bothislands.Note thatservices departure attheofficesferry docks You mustbuytickets 30minutes before The tripcostsCVE600andlastsonehour. Mindelo againat3pm,returning 5pm. at 8am,returning 10.30am.Thenitleaves the comfortable and SantoAntão. Whilesubjecttochange, (CVE300, onehour).There are also aluguer Alternatively, youcanjoinlocalsonan arrange onewhenyoulandatPorto Novo. CVE6000 forafullday.Youcanusually SANTO ANTÃO •• Getting There &Away SANTO ANTÃO••Getting There are ferries Mindelo dailybetween

( aluguer % headedtowardRibeiraGrande 2-211184) , whichbegins several kilometres Valé doPaúl. , though expecttopayatleast , though has weekly flights to/from flights hasweekly hiking map.Youmayalso hiking Mar Novo aluguer , orarrangefora The roadpasses leaves Mindelo aluguers 243

CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE Mosteiros east side of theisland tothe smalltown of Brava. Consider thepretty drive aroundthe centre, views across toIlha andsweeping colonial cobblestone streets, awell-preserved to boththeferry portandairport,has try’s highest peak (see peak (see try’s highest p246 ). a Tropical bathroom andhotmeals(CVE700). bathroom CVE1000/1400, with bathroom CVE1500/1800) withbathroomCVE1500/1800) bathroom CVE1000/1400, clad come toclimb,or atleastgawkcinder- itsname. Mostpeople deserves certainly in 1995),theisland of Fogo (meaning ‘fire’) sometimes rumblestolife (it lasterupted asingle,giantvolcano thatEssentially FOGO Sol are good value. offers roomsthat simplebutclean, bright Antilhas Restaurante nection. Justeastof thedock, ifyou’ve acon- cent placestostay missed Santo Antão’sporttownhasafew de- NOVO PORTO s/d CVE800/1300) the water, floor isapatchwork of farms.Located on is valley justbehindit.Atthetopof thevalley alongtheoceanandagricultural houses tinct components:astripof pretty pastel Grande, idyllic Paúl ismadeupof twodis- Located about10kmsoutheastof Ribeira PAÚL 5 deJulho street nexttothemainchurch, pressive. Located onadistinctlyPortuguese andthe roaringAtlanticisim- steep cliffs itsposition between is notbeautiful,though Grande, theisland’sadministrative centre, forasmallcolonial heart, Except Ribeira RIBEIRA GRANDE 244 restaurants (mainsfromCVE700). spaciousrooms.Both hotels havebright, CVE1500/1200) Inter net café(CVE300perhour). and minibars, agoodrestaurant andan Cova crater Cova São Filipe

) ( FOGO••SãoFilipe has more comfortable digs with TVs hasmore digswithTVs comfortable % t Fogo, Mt

2-222179; fax2-221166;s/dCVE3200/3600) ( % , which takes you pastterraced hill-

, theattractive andhome capital ( 2-21 1129; fax 2-212126; s/d CVE2600/3400; 2-21 1129;fax2-212126;s/dCVE2600/3400; Residencial Vale doPaúl Residencial isbasicbutcheap. , an extinct volcanic crater whose , anextinctvolcaniccrater whose % which at2829misthe coun- offers basicroomswithshared 2-211345; dwith/withoutbathroom Residencial Restaurante Pôrdo Restaurante Residencial

( % 2-221193; s/dwithout

Residencial Residencial Residencial Residencial Residencial Residencial ( % 231319; has Auto Rental Auto (CVE3500 toCVE4000aday),try back willcostaroundCVE6000.Foracar For schedules andtickets, visit to three toPraiaandBrava. boatsweekly town costsCVE300.There are usuallytwo into the tinyport3kmfromtown,andataxi Filipe (2km)costsCVE200.Boatsarrive at fromtheairportintoSão islands. Ataxi to/ from Praia,withconnectionstoother should consider visiting also raucous. wide festival. ItsMardi Gras celebrationis town celebrates on theroute toMosteiros. On1May, the beach islocated 17kmto thenorthof town by strange, volcanic rockformations,the locals atthelovely unsafe forswimming,but youcanjointhe across turbulentstraitstoBrava. squares andplazas–manywithviews buildings, cobblestonestreets andpretty Verde’s towns,withcolonial mostpleasant beach, black-sand São FilipeisamongCape above commandinglyoncliffs along, Set SÃO FILIPE dasCaldeiras. to Chã See p246 formore informationongetting ridetoMtFogocostsCVE6000. turn taxi canbedodgy. Are- both cars andservice Rental Auto (CVE3500 toCVE4000aday),try shouldn’t costmore thanCVE350.Foracar accordingly. Fares but dependondistance and thenbackhomelater intheday;plan head toSãoFilipeintheearlymorning, market inSãoFilipe. Thatmeansthey scarce. Mostare aroundthecentral based aroundtheislandareMinibuses relatively Around Getting ( TACV &Away There Getting and, tosoberup,mildarabicacoffee. well aswinninglygamered wines,muscadets sides thatyieldbothwonderfulproduceas informal trips around theisland. art gallery as wellas a launching point for 812879) % To travel there toMtFogo,ataxi and Visitors interested in history andculture Strong currents make thetownbeach 2-811012)

( . Run by a local artist, it serves asan . Runby alocalartist,itserves % 2-811228)

( ( inSãoFilipe. % % 2-811480) 2-811480) Nhô SãoFilipe hastwodailyflights Praia daSalina , though beware, though that . www.lonelyplanet.com Dja’r Fogo , itsyearlycity- . Protected Agenamar Agenamar Discount Discount

( % 2- out bathroomCVE1500) rwith/withoutbathroomCV3200/2500) .cv; .com; s/d CVE7100/8600; .com; s/dCVE7100/8600; current renovations could boostprices. r CVE3500) a www.lonelyplanet.com Pousada Belavista Sleeping Air-conditioning isCVE500 extra. rooms are new,andbreakfasts are hearty. home. Roomsare well-furnished, bath- run hotel builtaroundanoldcolonial rooms, withverandas ocean and sweeping urious option, withlarge, well-appointed out of town, Hotel Xaguate isthemost lux- is locked. Reservations recommended. is locked. Reservations views.Inquire Bistrôifthehotelocean atLe inn offers large, spotlessrooms, somewith posite themainchurch, thisGerman-run hiking excursions. thatalsoorganises groupfishingand staff commonareas,rooms, pleasant andfriendly 1 3 2 SÃO FILIPE Hotel Xaguate Hotel Casa Renate Casa Qualitour Pensão-Restaurante Vulcão Pensão-Restaurante ) Anelegant,understated, impeccably Restaurant Xaguate...... (see4) Le Bistrô...... Qualitour...... Pousada Belavista...... Pensão-Restaurante Vulcão...... Hotel Xaguate...... Dja'r Fogo...... Banco ComercialdoAtlântico...... Taxi Stand...... TACV...... Discount AutoRental...... Agenamar (FerryInformation)... Restaurante Magma...... aaRnt...... D3 Casa Renate...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION Inabeautifulcolonialbuildingop- AC ( %

2-811089; www.qualitour@cvtelecom ( % (

% ( Adecentcheapie, though % as 2-812518; [email protected]; 2-811222; hotelxaguate@yahoo 2-811734; s/d CVE2000/3000; 2-811734; s/dCVE2000/3000; To Cavaleiros ) 13 12 11 10 (Harbour; On the cliffs just On thecliffs 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

(200m) ( % C2 C1 C2 C2 B1 D3 B2 D2 C2 C3 C2 C2 2-811896; rwith- A TLNIC B O CEAN Decent ὈὈ ὄὄ ὄὄὈὈὈ Ὀ 4 Gorge Hospital 1

Park Rua do Tribunal To PraiadaSalina(17km);

7 lands. Highly recommended.lands. Highly a great sourceof informationabouttheis- andBrava.views of thesea Renate isalso decoratedcleverly terrace hassweeping and produce. The onlocalseafood based upsimplebutdelicious fare Renate serves terrace seating; thefoodisonlyOK. terrace seating; people comehere cliffside forthe pleasant, able) places in Cape Verdeable) placesinCape totryseafood. São Filipeisoneof thebest(andmostreason- Eating &Drinking (available tononguestsforCVE300). pool views. There’s cliffside alsoapleasant For more information, see opposite . & Away There Getting ing room.Prices are reasonable, too. fresh, din- traditionalcuisine inapleasant the ground floorof the Hotel Xaguate. diningroom on white-tablecloth pleasant, inthe and international dishes served

Rua Mosteiros (30km) Building Telecom

da Filipe São Restaurante Magma Magma Restaurante Posta Restaurant Xaguate Restaurant Le Bistrô Restaurante Sea Food Sea Restaurante Rua do Pensão 10 Park Las Vegas Ὀ Park 6 9 12 Municipal

Mercado

Rua da Central Eléctrica Central da Rua

Alto São Pedro São Alto Rua do Mercado do Rua (mains from CVE600) (mains fromCVE600) Town Hall 5 11 8 200m 0.1miles 0 0 FOGO ••SãoFilipe Setembro

Praça 4 (mains from CVE450) (mains fromCVE450) (mains from CVE750) (mains fromCVE750)

(mainsfromCVE600) Rua da Biblioteca Municipal 2 3 Church Municipal Library 13 Sea Food(50m); German owner German To Restaurante Beach (75m) D Chã dasCaldeiras To Airport(2km); Great, Most Local

(32km)

245 CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE Mosta Rehydrate onthebeachfront terrace of (CVE700 roundtrip). walk ortake ataxi beds.It’s locatedsalt 2kmwestof Espargos; istransformed intoshimmering seawater Lume tury. Don’tmissthesurreal lunar ported theislanders untilthemid-20th cen- trade withbothAfricaandBrazil and sup- mines, which formedalinkinPortuguese to/from Praia,two tothree dailyto/from refinery.run pizzerianext totheoldsalt fine beach in the near tional airport,butmostpeoplestay is to more interesting islands.Thelargest town intransit package holidaycrowdandthose three categories: hardcore windsurfers, the tourists thananyotherisland.They fallinto flatanddesolate, Though Sal boasts more SAL 246 TACV AIR &Away There Getting Espargos The islandgets itsnamefrom salt kiosk onthemainroadinPedrakiosk Brabo. orrunningwater) Askrooms (noelectricity inlocalhomesforaroundCVE1000. atthetourist There’srooms aroundanarcaded,plant-filled courtyard. alsoacooperative thatoffers very basic in theafternoon andthenheadbacktoSãoFilipe morningby thenext Spend theafternoon morning. exploringthecrater, theascent the next andthenmake Recover spend twonightsinChã.Comeby to arrangearoundtrip.The driver shouldbeabletolocate aguide. youwillhave to Otherwise, one way/return There CVE4000/6000). backdown,soit’sbest isnoguaranteed transportation near thetop,butviewsare magnificent.Afterwards, youcanrundownin45minutes! of 1000mupa30-to40-degree three slope–takes tofourhours,withsomechallenging scrambles There are plentyinPedra Brabo,andthegoingrate The isaroundCVE2000. taxingascent –aclimb not technically difficult,itrequires pairofboots,andaguide. goodphysicalcondition,ahearty even applesinthisforbiddinglandscape. of Pedra Brabo,whosefamouslyfriendly residents managetogrowgrapes,coffee, beansand years, thoughthere’ve beenregular eruptionsinChã.The latest, in1995,threatened thevillage collapsed andslidintotheseatoeast.The mainconehasbeeninactive formore than200 cliffs, Chãwasbornwhen,sometimeinthelast100,000years,some300cukmofisland of anancientcrater knownasChãdasCaldeiras (‘Chã’).Boundbyahalf-circleofprecipitous The conical Pico doFogovolcano,shroudedinblackcinder,risesdramaticallyoutofthefloor CLIMBING MT FOGO around 7amfromPedra Brabo. SAL •• Getting There &Away SAL••Getting

, thecrater of anancientvolcanowhere ( Start Start climbing earlytoavoidthenoonheat.Leave SãoFilipe by5amtaxi(90minutes, There’s fascinating While alongthecrater floor,butmostpeoplecometoclimbthepeak. hiking In Pedra Braboyoucanstayat

% (pizza CVE500-800; (pizza CVE500-800; 2-411268) , locatednexttotheinterna- right Santa Maria has six to 10 flights daily has six to10 flights h , 18kmtothesouth. 9am-6pm) , anItalian- Pensão Pedra Brabo aluguer Pedra da Cá da (CVE250), whichleave fromSãoFilipe around11am. airport orEspargos costsaboutCVE400 ferries, see p253 totheportfrom . Ataxi meira. Formore aboutinterisland details Palmeira, and CVE700/1000 during the day/night . CVE700/1000 during theday/night the airport. Taxis route along thesame cost justin frontofall stop on themainroad Maria andEspargos (CVE100, 25minutes); Santa plythe roadbetween Minibuses Around Getting ( ules are irregular. Inquire atboth about 4kmnorthwestof Espargos. Sched- Interisland ferries callatPalmeira, theport SEA the airportineitherdirection (CVE100). infrontofhail aminibusonthehighway Or,youcan CVE700 andCVE1000atnight. TaxisCVE300 atnight. Maria toSanta run charge aroundCVE200duringthedayand tourist booth.Taxis toEspargos (2.3km) bureau dechange (open24hours) anda (CVE100 perbag24hours), anATM, to BoaVista. São Vicente, andtwotothree weekly flights % The airport has left-luggage facilitiesThe airporthasleft-luggage 2-411349)

( % 2-618940; rCVE2000/3000) , located near the taxi stand in , located stand nearthetaxi Polar

( % aluguer www.lonelyplanet.com 2-414245) , whichleave , withbasic alsoinPal- Anaú Sal

Morabeza blue marlin).Thetravel agency atthe ade) anddeep-sea fishing (forshark and range tunaanddor- trawling(forwahoo, Portuguese-run Portuguese-run theHotel through Morabeza); the (contact cluding theFrench-run Mares Dive Center the beach justwestof pier. thesagging check intootherexcursions at CVE4620/7260 perperson). Youcanalso from trips(half-day/full-day well assailing (fromCVE13,400perperson)Vista as Funsystem Activities anddebitcards. that acceptVisa bureauxseveral dechange aswellATMs bank andthemainminibusstop.There are when youfirst enter town,hasacinema, and scubadiving. fishing,surfcasting tunities fordeep-sea rental).weekly There are alsogoodoppor- surfing, which issuperb(fromCVE20,000 herestandouts are windsurfing and kite- beach withclear,blue-green waters. The along,lovelyits owngood.Still,itboasts resort townthatisgrowing toofastfor MariaSanta isadusty,largely graceless Sitting atthesoutherntipof theisland, SANTA MARIA www.lonelyplanet.com Residencial NháTerraResidencial Sleeping ( run theItalian- just beyondHotel Belorizonte; too. could becushier, however. Beds views. Therestaurantocean is very good value, with large, spotless rooms,some with from the cinema,NháTerra offers good run which offers PADI courses; and the German- Holiday Clubalongthebeachfront,Djadsal fice in Germany. Lessons are Lessons alsoavailable.fice inGermany. December andJanuary), theheadof- contact (recommended inAugust, and reservations F2/Naish boards).Formore information ing, windsurfingandkitesurfing (including Morbeza, rents thelatest equipmentforsurf- the Odjod’Água Hotel complex. .com; s/dfrom CVE3700/4700) .fun-system.com) % There are anumberof scuba schools, in- The defaultmainsquare, which youhit Nautic Fishing Club 2-422033) Blueway DivingCenter Stingray Dive Center Stingray Dive (

% ( % and , onthebeach infrontof Hotel 2-421020) 49-89 20 23 21 80 in Germany; www 49-89 20232180inGermany; CVTS Manta Diving Manta

( %

( offers daytripstoBoa %

( 2-421109; nhaterra@hotmail Around thecorner %

( /fax 2-421617) % ( % 2-421220) 2-421339) 2-421134)

( % ,

Barracuda both off 2-421540) atHotel canar- inside Hotel Hotel ,

.com; s/d from CVE9910/13,200) .com; s/dfromCVE9910/13,200) h grocery store for self-catering. grocery store forself-catering. fishrestaurantestablished alsohasasmall blocks downfromNháTerra, thiswell- 10pm) CVE4400/6300) hotel’s pleasant diningroom. hotel’s pleasant inthe the freshest ingredients andserved from thecinema. decent –ifgloomyroomsthree blocks notabargain)in town(though offers clean, without bathroom3600/2600) dwith/ 421165; swith/withoutbathroomCVE3600/3100, Pub The town’smain disco Entertainment NháTerraRestaurante Eating at night. Plenty of plytheat night. minibuses cost CVE700 duringthe dayand CVE1000 Taxis Maria Santa between and theairport &Around There Getting around aleafycommonarea. resort hotel hasspaciousroomsarranged just westof thepier,thisclassy,stone-faced views. onarooftop terrace withocean is served classy. Roomshave verandas, andbreakfast this French-owned issimplebut guesthouse the cinema. small, palm-filled courtyardjust downfrom up French-inflected Creole dishes ina windsurfers down. after thesungoes nexttoResidencial NháTerra,Bar, attracts of townontheroadtoairport. ChillOut up forthejustOKfood. square onapleasant terrace make seating to €300. studio apartmentsbythemonthfor€250 here rentslonger thefriendlystaff stays, (CVE300), as well as beer and cocktails. andcocktails. (CVE300), aswellbeer fasts (aroundCVE2500)andafine break- egg owned pub-restaurant serves Residencial Alternativa Residencial Restaurante Côte Jarain Côte Restaurante Les Alizés Aqui Sal Hotel Morabeza Hotel Tam Tam Tam Restaurante Piscador Restaurante Mateus 7pm-10pm Mon-Sat)

( h Classic Cape Verde ClassicCape dishesmadewith until 4amMon-Sat)

(mains CVE600-1000)

Opposite Restaurante Piscador, ( ( ( h % % 8am-midnight) 2-421446; [email protected]; s/d 2-421446; [email protected]; 2-421325; www.aquisal.com)

( % The chef-owner serves serves Thechef-owner SAL •• Santa Maria SAL ••SantaMaria

(mains CVE600-1100; (mains CVE600-1100; 2-421020; www.hotelmorabeza

islocated justoutside (mains CVE750-1250) Thecheapest place

Right onthebeachRight

Pirata Pizzaria Disco Pirata Pizzaria ( Live musicand (mains CVE1000-2500; (mains CVE1000-2500; % Friendly,Irish- 2-421216; fax2- cachupa h Two 8am- 247 For

CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE .com; s/dCVE1900/2800) s/dinclbreakfast CVE2000/3000) telecom.cv; north of Praça 19deSeptembro. blockssome withfans.Located several a courtyardjustoffPraça19deSeptembro. rooms,somewithverandas,pleasant around Septembro. tral, located justacrossfromPraça19 de stand. blocks behindthetownhallandtaxi onanattractive terrace afew meals served hall atthesouthern entranceof the town. stopisinfrontofminibus andtaxi thetown 25 minutes); allstopattheairport.Themain Espargos Mariabetween andSanta (CVE100, 10to15minutes plytheroadevery Minibuses &Away There Getting h here Maria. thaninSanta Both foodandaccommodationsare cheaper Sleeping &Eating growsquite lively.de Septembro Maria,Santa Praça19 andin theevenings like Verdean areal Cape townthantouristy venient thanattractive. Still,itfeels more small, dustytownthatproves more con- dock, Espargos –isa –theisland’scapital Located nearboththeairportandferry ESPARGOS in frontof theairport. (CVE100), andallstoponthemainroad Espargos Mariaroad between andSanta 248 raced hillsides are farmed withthe aidof to reside firmly inthe19th century. Itster- cobblestone, cross-islandroads, Brava seems fortheoccasional carthatbravesExcept the pop 5000 BRAVA OTHER ISLANDS Abel Djassi;s/dCVE3000/3500) blocks northof Praça19deSeptembro. top choice intown.It’slocated aboutfive and great traditionalmusicmake thisthe upgoodfood(mainsfromCVE700) serves a rooftop terrace, and abar-restaurant that Residencial Central Residencial Esplanada BomDia For groceries,trySupermercado Cen- Pensâo Restaurante Violão Pensâo Restaurante Casa daAngela Casa 7am-midnight) OTHER ISLANDS••Brava Café fare Café aswellsimple

( %

Clean,basicrooms– 2-411327; casaangela20@hotmail ( % ( Large cleanrooms, % 2-411366; [email protected] mains from CVE460; mains fromCVE460;

( % 2-411720; Rua Basic but Basic s/d CVE1500/2000) s/d CVE1500/2000) morning boat, astransport canbescarce.morning boat, Furna andFajã. ifyouhave Planahead a Vilaandboth forCVE800between self Furna (CVE250).Youcanget onetoyour- Fajã,between Vilaandtheferry port at Atlântico withATM. beach. black-sand small butpleasant Fajã Beyond sive cliffs. liesPorteto, withits arockycovematically between andimpres- both nearby. doMonte orLimaDoce, Nosso Senhora westward toCova Joanaandthenonto down toVinagre and Barbara viaSanta are someshortbutlovely hikes: eastward est clouds; it’sreputed tohave someof thefin- sits onalittleplateau regularly engulfed in at Formed bythree scenic ridges thatmeet pop 5000 SÃO NICOLAU way. Forferry see routes anddetails, p253 . Brava, generally stopping inFogoonthe from Praianormally arrive in twiceaweek TACV isnotcurrently flyingtoBrava. Boats &Away There Getting Brava are basic. With oneexception,accommodations in Sleeping &Eating the USthanonislanditself. can ships.Tothisday,more natives live in became akey source of whalers forAmeri- ing aneruptiononnearbyFogo,theisland flee- tled inthe17thcenturybyPortuguese that stilldominate thelandscape. First set- farmhouses the simple,Portuguese-style newconstructionimitates mules, andeven smelling. small, basicroomsthatare clean,ifmusty- Manuel Burgo OceanFront Motel Burgo Manuel gardens. Nearby, CVE2000), anddelightful French-inspired meals(three courses for fers tastefully appointed rooms, excellent run byaFrench-Cape Verdean couple,of- Paul Sena open ontotheocean. [email protected]; rfrom CVE3500) In Vila,there’s Comercialdo aBanco In Fajã, Sintra deNova Vila In ViladeNova Sintra, Mt Gordo morno

( % in Cape Verde. inCape From Vila,there – at 1312mthe island’s high- Pensão SolnaBaia 2-851312; r per person CVE1200) 2-851312; rperpersonCVE1200) Fajã d’Agua has basic rooms, though they has basicrooms,though (‘Vila’), the tiny capital, (‘Vila’), thetinycapital, Aluguers www.lonelyplanet.com (‘Fajã’) dra- isset Pensão Restaurante Pensão Restaurante

( % ply the road plytheroad

( % /fax

2-852070; 2-851321; offers offers , 351282; s/dwithoutbathroom CVE1000/1200) rooms, somewith views. large, andtastefully appointed comfortable the town’smain square, hassimplebut tugal. RibeiraBrava’s are still reminiscent of 17th-centuryPor- Its narrow,hillsidestreets andtiled roofs inland toprotect itstreasures frompirates. Verde’sCape religious centre, itwasbuilt lies markstheisland’sculture.deeply isaperpetual threatat least;drought that ably green –inyears whenrainscooperate, largely barren, northernslopesare remark- While thesouthernslopesare dry and –SãoNicolauisahiker’s est peak delight. www.lonelyplanet.com TACV TACV &Away There Getting ( ( ( In Tarrafal, optionsinclude Sleeping &Eating reaching thesummit. aprotecteding through pineforest before pass- Cachaço, through Mt Gordoalsogoes able toshow youtheway.Thetrailupto valley toRibeiraBrava. Anydriver willbe andhikeCachaço theFajã downthrough lar. Agreat optionistoget off halfwayat island’s port.The26kmdrive isspectacu- from theunbeautifultownof Tarrafal, the (aroundCVE1200) bus (CVE200)ortaxi onlytoMindelo’s. second António clean, decentrooms.Thenew just acrosstheriverbed, isgoodvalue,with ahead). rooftop restaurant CVE800,order (meals rooms (somewithviews),plusavery good overlooking town,hasquaint,comfortable airport is5km southeast of Ribeira Brava toSal. The flights from Praiaand weekly beach fromtheport,and main square, serves good tunasteaks. main square, serves SombraDalila,near the Bela Restaurant has cleaniftatteredthe postoffice, rooms. Both are very basic. meals(aroundCVE600). former serves beach andbehindthesoccerfield. The % % % Near themouthof thefertile You cangotoRibeiraBrava bymini- In RibeiraBrava, thespotless 2-351117; s/dCVE2000/3000) /fax /fax 2-361178;rCVE1400) Ribeira Brava Ribeira ( %

2-361187; s/dCVE1200/1400) ( % 351161, 351162) Pensão Jumbo 2-352200; fax2-352199;rCVE3800) , the island’s capital. Long , theisland’scapital. has daily flights toand hasdaily flights

Carnival ( % ,

Pensão daCruz further downthe , located onahill 2-351315; dCVE1600) Residencial Natur Residencial Residencial Alice Residencial , justdownthe celebrationis Pensão Jardim Pensão Santo , opposite Fajã valley

( % , on 2- ,

or .bwscv.com) r CVE4500) tion onthislargely flatisland. for aroundCVE1500 perday–agoodop- CVE6000 perday. Hotel Dunasrents bikes car rentals –expecttopayCVE5000 to CVE5000 toCVE6000.There are several Monicarunsaround Rei toPraiadaSanta available butcostly–anexcursion fromSal roads, butthey’re scarce. Taxis are readily Boa Vista Watersport System Watersport Boa Vista For divingaswellwindsurfing, contact boards foraroundCVE25,000per week. ( Dunas course windsurfingandkitesurfing. turtle-watching (mostlyhumpbacks)andof asts: snorkelling, fishing,diving,whale-and Sal Rei)isthepretty PraiadeChaves. in(aboutanhour’shikecoast. Closer from cated about25kmawayontheisland’ssouth most beautiful, town beach isattractive, butthelongest and and virtuallyallitsaccommodations.The home tomostof tinypopulation– BoaVista’s dunes. ing sand Much of theinterior undulates withshift- hint of vegetation alongthenortherncoast. ception of three totheeastanda mountains island islargely flatandarid,withtheex- And like itsneighbour tothenorth, ing, isanotherSalinthemaking. Boa Vista sorts, andbreezes favourable towindsurf- beaches, re-With long,sand Italian-run pop 5000 VISTABOA p253 for more details. PraiaandSão Vicente.way between See reliably onits twiceaweek stopsatleast sometimes bypasstheisland, Whileotherferries(CVE500 bytaxi). Riba d’Olte serves up very good pasta. Riba d’Olte serves hotel intown,the dining rooms, though arein SalRei.Restaurants mostlylimited to Accommodations are arelatively goodvalue Sleeping &Eating Italian owner, tastefully appointedItalian rooms [email protected]) % Aluguers There’s plentytodofor water enthusi- andlargestSal Rei,thecapital town,is Residencia A Paz Residencia Submarine Dive Center Center Dive Submarine 2-511392; www.boavistawindclub.com)

( % While notinexpensive, afriendly on themainsquare inSalRei, OTHER ISLANDS••BoaVista 2-511225) (fromCVE100)plytheisland’s . Praia daSantaMonica ( and % 2-511078; www.a-paz.com; Boa Vista WindClub Boa Vista

( % ( % 9927866 mobile; 2-511392; www bothrent Tarrafal , islo- Hotel Hotel 249

CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE tails and routes, see androutes, see tails p253 . fromPraiaandSal. ForferryBoa Vista de- toSal(25minutes).weekly Ferries to sail Praia (onehour)andfive to sixflights fine viewsontothewater. Sunny, well-appointed rooms,manywith iscent of Marrakesh Verde. thanCape inn is morethis upscale,Italian-run remin- painted brightly rooms, With comfortable, also acaféwithgoodespresso. offers rooms.There’s smallbutpleasant onthewaterThis coral-pinkcottage right no buses, but no buses, Bitche Rotche called PortoInglés. There’s agoodbeach, city andport,Vila doMaio, iscommonly trade,whichtrolled thesalt iswhy themain wave pirates. TheBritishcon- of high-seas toattracta today,wealthyenough lieve collecting centre hardtobe- and,though nation’s friendliest. Verdein Cape – theislandisreputedly the can expectoneof thewarmestwelcomes you astrandtoyourself, beaches. Besides and long,beautifullargely deserted waterswestern coastline,withitsturquoise lators alike are slowly discovering the ding, buttravellers andreal estatespecu- Maio’s interior maybeflatandforbid- pop 5900 MAIO TACV &Away There Getting good value. and alovely rooftop terrace adduptoa 250 walk fromthe airport. ashort small apartments, with theoffice CVE1300/2000) from thebeach. tasteful roomswithsmallkitchens; just50m rooms make thisplaceagoodvalue. Imobiliária also adecent restaurant. Or, ifsimple rooms.There’swell-maintained for aroundCVE4000 perday. s/d CVE2900/3800) Cá Nícola Dunas Hotel BomSossego Residencial Maio salt- wasonceanimportant Criola Bed &Breakfast Migrante Guesthouse Migrante Hotel BomSossego Hotel CAPE VERDE DIRECTORY ••Accommodation CAPEVERDEDIRECTORY

( % 2-511186)

( ( Basic butwell-maintained Basic % % , justoutsidetown. There are

( Maio Car Maio ispricey,butwith cleanand % 2-551312; r CVE3300-4200) 2-511793; rCVE4000) has daily flights to/from hasdailyflights 2-511225; fax2-511384;rCVE9000)

(

( % ( ( % % 2-551365; fax2-551327; 2-551700)

2-511143; rCVE7500) 2-511373; rCVE3000) ( % Simplebut Ilha do Maio Ilha doMaio 2-511155; s/d rents cars offers offers

tween PraiaandViladoMaio.tween be- thatrunsatleastonceaweek service to/from Praia(15minutes). There’s aferry Diving in Cape VerdeDiving inCape iswellknownfor to CVE65,000(PADI Open Water Diver). ment rental. Courses costfromCVE35,000 CVE1000 extraperdive forfullequip- for onedive plus (cheaper foraseries) (p243). Antão Santo especially and ( p246) of SãoNicolau( p248 ), Brava ( p248 ( Vista p249 ), Fogo ), plustrekking inthemountains fishingonSal( deep-sea p246 ) andBoa surfing andkitesurfing, scubadivingand For active types,themaindrawsare wind- ACTIVITIES erally safe. ing onremote beaches ispossibleandgen- and up.There are nocampsites, butcamp- ness centre, theycharge US$75(CVE8000) all theamenities,frompooltogymbusi- age tours, especiallyonSalandSantiago. For mostly justresort hotels thatcater topack- air conditioning.Atthetopend,there are able midrange doublewithhotwater and you canexpectamodestbutquite comfort- US$30 toUS$40(CVE2800CVE3800), double withshared bathroom.Foraround US$16 (CVE1500)forabasicbutdecent country. are some 50%more thantherest of the on Salandthecityof Praia,where prices Verde,tion isexpensive inCape especially accommoda- By WestAfricanstandards, ACCOMMODATION CAPE VERDEDIRECTORY TACV Prices fordivingare aroundCVE3500 Most places,youcanexpecttopayunder PRACTICALITIES weekly newspapers. Cape Verde usesthe metricsystem. twin-pronged plugs. Voltage is 220VwithEuropean-style shows as well asCape Verde news. andBrazilian tugal’s, withPortuguese ismostlylimited toPor- andTV Radio A Semana

( % 2-551256) and Expresso dasIlhas has three flights weekly has three weekly flights www.lonelyplanet.com are the cycling are goodyear-round. marlins, wahoos,sharks),andtrekking and tober) isgoodforfishing(rays,barra cudas, tions are notidealforbeginners. condi- can bestrongandblowoff-shore, thewinds Because strong andconstant). ticularly January toMarch whenwindsare mid-November andmid-May (andpar- CVE15,000. Thebestmonths are between hours of kitesurfing tuitioncostsaround bookboardsinadvance. Six season, high Ifyoucomeinthe CVE20,000 perweek. are fromMarch toNovember. Verde.chamber inCape Thebestmonths that there iscurrently nodecompression for beginners orinexperienceddivers. Note of currents, notallsitesBecause are suitable sharks andraysare alloccasionallyseen. its diversity of species.Dolphins,whales, www.lonelyplanet.com Mindelo. common sense Follow the same violent crime isnot unknown here orin is among thesafest citiesinWestAfrica, While Praia(ontheisland of Santiago) DANGERS &ANNOYANCES is Sunday;7°Saturday). system from1°to7°(ie the Portuguese and daysare often numbered accordingto usually measured with the24-hoursystem, Friday. Note thaton posted hours, timeis hours are from8am to3pmMonday 8am tonoonor1pmSaturday. Banking and 3pmto6pm,MondayFriday, and Business hours are generally 8amtonoon HOURS BUSINESS and Society Lobban, of the Republicof CapeVerde are scarce butinclude: VerdePublications inEnglishabout Cape BOOKS pages of illustrations. around12 some tourismkiosks,contains BirdLife International brochure available at birds, the Sul for want glossyphotosforsouvenirs, lookout orjust If youread orItalian, Portuguese and by AnneHammick andNicholas Heath, April toNovember (especiallyJunetoOc- An F2windsurfer costsfromaround byFederico Ifyou’re Cerrone. keen on Cabo Verde CruzamentodoAtlântico The Fortunate IslesThe Fortunate Cape Verde: Politics, Economics Aves deCabo Verde, byColmFoy, Historical Dictionary by Basil Davidson. byBasil Atlantic Islands afairlybasic byRichard

Santiago) sachusetts Ave, NW,Washington, DC20007) Honorary Consulate. M8Z1N5) Queensway, Suite103,Etobicoque,Ontario Dorotheenstrasse, D-10117Berlin) Haya 51, 28020, Madrid) Consulate. Haya 51,28020,Madrid) Kninginnegracht, 2514ADTheHague) Vicente Nacional, AchadadeSantoAntónio,Platô,Praia); .embcv.pt/index.asp; Av 33,1400Lisbon) doRestelo Laborre 30,1050Brussels) in August. (São Vi dasGatas Música, heldinBaia cente) (Fogo), heldon1 May; andtheFestival de in Mindelo(São Vicente); NhôSãoFilipe February orMarch, thelargest occurring Gras, which isheldall over Verde Cape in Verde’sCape mainfestivals includeMardi FESTIVALS &EVENTS USA Senegal Portugal France Verde inCape Embassies &Consulates USA Spain Portugal Netherlands Italy Germany France Canada Belgium sies includethefollowing: Verdeanthe UK.Elsewhere, Cape embas- Verde hasnodiplomaticrepresentation in Formore see details, in Senegal. p739 . Cape VerdeIn WestAfrica,Cape hasan embassy VerdeanEmbassies&Consulates Cape EMBASSIES &CONSULATES pick-pocketing isalwaysapossibility. country isvery pettycrimelike safe, though rules youwouldinanycity.Therest of the National Heroes’ Day New Year’s Day Public holidays includethefollowing: HOLIDAYS Santiago) Carduci 4,00187Rome) António, Praia,Santiago) Jouffroy d’Abbans80,75017Paris) ( ( ( % % ( ( % ( ( % % CAPE VERDE DIRECTORY ••Books CAPE VERDEDIRECTORY ( % % ( ( % 2-615616; 81 Rua Abilio Macedo, Platô,Praia, 2-615616; 81RuaAbilioMacedo, 202-965 6820;fax1207;3415Mas- ( ( % Santiago 06-474 4678;fax4764;VialeGiosué % % % 91-570 2568;fax2563;CalleCapitán 2-323130; Av 5deJulho,Mindelo) 2-615589; RuadaPrainha,AchadadeSanto 01 42127354;fax40530436;Rue 416-252 1082;fax1092;The ( 2-615621; Rua Abilio Macedo, Praia, 2-615621; RuaAbilioMacedo, 2-646 9025;fax3385;RueAntonie % 21-301 9521;fax5308;www 30-2045 0955;fax0966;43 1January ( 70-346 9623;fax7702;44 % 2-623032; RuadaAssembleia 20January São

251 CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE geography andplantanimallife. produced ABKarten-Verlag A goodmapof theislandsis German- MAPS p861. andCrioulo,see inPortuguese and phrases words Forsomeuseful Portuguese. standard you mayhave troublecommunicatingin sometimesintownsandcities,and even astheirfirst language.guese, Inruralareas African-inflected version of Portu- medieval Verdeansmost Cape speakCrioulo,an language, istheofficial butPortuguese LANGUAGE /cvhist.html www.umassd.edu/specialprograms/caboverde /cvgeog.html www.umassd.edu/specialprograms/caboverde inPortuguese. events www.caboverdeonline.com www.caboverde.com RESOURCES INTERNET connectionsareeral, though, ratherslow. good-sized towns,have Internet cafés. Ingen- The maintownsof each island,andeven ACCESS INTERNET Day Christmas Conception Immaculate All Saints’Day Day Assumption Independence Day Labour Day 252 advances with a Visa card. advances with aVisa the West African CFA). Many also give cash and cash inallthemaincurrencies (except ManyVisa. alsochange travellers cheques most have ATMs that acceptbankcards and someofand even thesmallerones, and alsoacceptUS dollars andeuros. nesses 2002, itwaspegged totheeuro. Most busi- not ahardcurrency, inJanuary but it’sstable; cudo (CVE),divided into100centavos. It’s The unitof currency Verde istheCape es- MONEY around 40suggested walks. stadt Wanderkarte for SantoAntãoisthe(alsoGerman) (1:200,000; 2001).Anexcellenthiking map in English, Portuguese andItalian. in English,Portuguese Banks areBanks foundinall themaintowns CAPE VERDE DIRECTORY ••InternetAccess CAPEVERDEDIRECTORY 1May For a good introduction toCapeVerde’sFor agoodintroduction For informationabouthistoryandculture. 1November 25December 15August 5July Comprehensive tourism listings Comprehensive tourism (1:50,000;2001)with 8December For newsandcurrent Cabo Verde Gold-

upmarket establishments. may berequested. receipts, yourpassportandairticket, which other currencies, butbringmoneychanging in Praiashouldchange escudos backinto Interatlânticoat Sal’sairportandBanco legal tender outsidetheislands).Thebank Verdeanget stuckwithCape escudos(not it unlessyou’re careful desperate. notto Be escudosaretuguese often fakes), soavoid illegal andcarriesrisks(USdollars andPor- five years. Within West Africa, Dakar, in areVisas of issued routinely forstays upto Verdean embassy inWashington, DC. passport, onephotoandUS$40 totheCape als, require avisa. IntheUSA,mail your VerdeanAll visitors, exceptCape nation- VISAS provider.national mobileservice there isusuallyalsoa representative of the wherebile phone,head tothepostoffice, around thecountry. calling centres, which are toappear starting deals, keep an eyeoutforInternet-based at aroundCVE200perminute. Forbetter expensive, international calls,which start as well,which canbemore convenient for oftenshops). Postoffices have callcentres andmany small cards atanypostoffice aphonecard(availableneed in CVE50/150 phone booths are fairlyplentifulbutyou’ll ‘2.’ Noarea Public tele- codeisnecessary. VerdeCape with digits;allstart hasseven Every numberforafixed telephone linein TELEPHONE and Saturdaymorningsinsometowns. and 2.30pmto5.30pmMondayFriday, (post offices)are openfrom8amtonoon to anywhere outsidetheislands. quick. A20gletter orpostcardcostsCVE60 isreliable andreasonably service The postal POST installations. photographing military should alwaysaskpermissionfirst. Avoid people elsewhere inWestAfrica,butyou to objecttheirphotosbeingtaken than VerdeansIn general, Cape are lesslikely PHOTOGRAPHY &VIDEO Credit cardsare accepted onlyinvery Changing moneyontheblackmarket is To buyalocalGSM chip foryour mo- www.lonelyplanet.com Correios

Santiago) ecção deEmigrãçaoeFronteiras photo andlodge theapplicationat intheory,tofillaform,supply need, For anextension of more you thanaweek, Extensions Visa expire.CVE15,000 ifyouletyourvisa and smiling!).Note thatthere’s afineof on thespot(particularlyifyou’re polite aredays). Inpractice,visas usuallyissued Emigrãçao eFronteiras onanyisland,orthe station togoapolice arriving, youmayneed soafter maybeshort,however, lowed stay and Sal,willcostCVE4000.Youral- on arrivalattheairportsandportsof Praia embassy. embassy, inquire atthenearest Portuguese can get avisa. Ifthere’s Verdean noCape Sene gal, isoneof thefew placeswhere you www.lonelyplanet.com weekly from Lisbon, and onceor twiceweekly of international activity. anincreasing Praiaisseeing amount though Most international land onSal, flights Air area (see p852 formore details). required ifyouare comingfrom aninfected Proof of yellowfever vaccinationisonly Verde Cape Entering THERE&AWAY GETTING CAPE VERDE IN TRANSPORT general informationandadvice,see p828 . special precautions are required. Formore West Africaforsolowomentravellers –no VerdeCape isoneof thesafest countriesin WOMEN TRAVELLERS first. head toDakar,inSenegal, to in WestAfricancountries,youmay need uponarrival avisa to process.Ifyouneed around CVE500andtake upto48hours country’s embassyinPraia. Theycost atthat canbeobtained forSenegal Visas forOnwardTravel Visas Praia, Santiago) That said, a tourist visa can be obtained can beobtained atouristvisa That said, TACV three has flights to fourtimes , andrenew it(amaximumof 180 , which willtake afew days.

(Rua Serpa Pinto,(Rua Serpa Platô,Praia,

(Rua Serpa Pinto,(Rua Serpa Platô, Direcção de Direcção TRANSPORT IN CAPE VERDE •• Getting There &Away INCAPEVERDE••Getting TRANSPORT Dir- Hub: Lisbon. .com) Hub:Johannesburg. Praia, Santiago)Hub:Praia. Santiago) Hub:Dakar. .air-senegal-international.com; Av AmilcarCabral,Praia, for general information. think aboutbringing yourown.See p843 lands, butthere are few placestorent them; Cycling isagoodwaytoget around theis- Bicycle inflexibility. worth thesacrifice dition, savings are small,andmay notbe have toarrive byTACV toqualify.Inad- Verde).cies abroadbutnotinCape You Verde AirPass (available fromtravel agen- TACV’syou maywanttopurchase Cabo you’re twoormore taking internal flights, cheaper ifyoubuytickets Verde. inCape If except Brava. are Internal flights slightly TACV Air alltheinhabited islands serves AROUND GETTING TAP AirPortugal TACV Airways South African Buenos Aires, Johannesburg,New YorkandAtlanta, and South AfricanAirwaysfliestoSalfrom from Lisbon. Air Portugalhasdailyflights Madrid,Fortaleza, Munich andParis. TAP fromBoston,Amsterdam, Basel, per week cards ortraveller’s cheques. someTACVeven don’tacceptcredit offices ticket incashasmosttravel agencies and mon. Also,beprepared you topurchase asno-showsareflying standby very com- tions tomostmajor WestAfricancities. to/fromDakar,withconnec- weekly flights AirSénégalInternational hasthreeweekly. three tofour times Praia andDakar(Senegal) Air Sénégal International Air SénégalInternational the following: Sometimes departures are delayed byaday so unloading timecan beunpredictable. andmost boats alsocarry cargo,be rough, bepreparedHowever, can fordelays.Seas habited islands, andpricesare reasonable. There are ferry connectionstoall ninein- Boat Note are thatifflights full,it’swellworth From WestAfrica,TACV fliesbetween Airlines servicing Cape Verde Cape Airlines servicing include (VR; (VR; % 2-608200; www.tacv.cv; Av2-608200; www.tacv.cv; AmilcarCabral, (TP; (TP; % (SA; 2-411195; www.flytap.com) (V7; (V7; % % 2-411358; www.flysaa 2-617529; www

253 CAPE VERDE CAPE CAPE VERDE The triplastsonehourandcostsCVE600. cente andSantoAntãoisalsovery reliable. Nicolau andinMindeloaroundmidday. Praia, arrivingthefollowingmorningatSão Santiago) are andpossiblyFogo. Santiago,BoaVista only three thatmake worthit theexpense You canrent cars onmanyislands,butthe &Motorcycle Car tion, the the followingmorning.Inotherdirec- and thenheadtoPraiaovernight, arriving noon, arrive inSaõNicolau theevening, boatsleaveweek, Mindelointheearlyafter- Mindelo andPraiaviaSaõNicolau.Twicea isviaSMT’s service water andsnacks. ofalways agoodideatobringreserve or more. There are butit’s cafésonboard, 254 © LonelyPlanetPublications the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright thetermsand conditionsonour siteforalongerway ofsaying youknow, orresell it.See everyone site,massemail itto only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethink it’sfairtoask you touseitforpersonal, non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access thischapterisnotdigitally Tomake able overnight berthwithfourbeds). (CVE4200 perperson forafairlycomfort- to12-hourtripcostsaround CVE2500 eight- agency alsohandlesboatstoSãoVicente. The CVE3400 foranovernight berth. lounge and CVE2100 inthesecond-class The overnight tripfromPraiatoSalcosts from FogotoBrava costsaboutCVE7000. Prices vary.Theshortone-totwo-hourtrip Sal,SãoVicenteVista, andSãoNicolau. sometimes hitsalltheislands,includingBoa nects Praia,Fogo,Brava, andMaio, butalso Polar SãoVi- between The twice-dailyservice The mostreliable – –andcomfortable In thetownof Espargos onSal,theAnaú TRANSPORT IN CAPE VERDE •• Getting Around INCAPEVERDE••Getting TRANSPORT operates aferry thatgenerally con- ( % Tarrafal 2-615223; Av Verde, Unidade Guiné-Cabo leaves from intheevening Tarrafal, which connects 421187; airports uponarrival. agencies are alsoopeningshop.Checkat As tourismgrows,international carrental free (CVE0.10perkilometre thereafter). insurance all-inclusive, withthefirst 100km and about CVE4500perday,includingtax sible risksof hitching. see p845 forageneral warningonthepos- sometimes expected. It’susuallysafe but dependingondistances. full day’sservices, for afew hours, andCVE6000 ormore fora excursions. topayaroundCVE3000 Expect youcouldbestungfairlyhardfor However, CVE500 andoften CVE100 toCVE200. in major towns, withfares rarely topping thelongestCVE350 foreven trip andnomoreCVE200 perpassenger, than They usuallycharge around CVE100to gers anywhere off ontheway,request. they’re more or lessfull,anddroppassen- fromtheirinitialstopwhen off tions), set points aroundtown(asklocalsfordirec- islands. Theypickuppeopleatunmarked relatively even tween smalltownsonmost aluguers trucks withnarrowwoodenbenches, the vanstopick-up fromcomfortable Ranging &Taxi Minibus ([email protected]; Thelargestmain roads. companyis tions are onceyouget rough thefew off Consider afour-wheel drive, ascondi- Hitching payment is iseasy,though Taxis are generally plentifulandcheap São Vicente provide regular connectionsbe- % 2-325194) Praia www.lonelyplanet.com % . Cars costfrom. Cars 2-615801; Sal Alucar % 2-