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FF 2019-2 A4 Pages Inc Covers DONE.Indd 22019/2019/2 TThehe JJournalournal ooff tthehe OOceancean CruisingCruising ClubClub ® 1 Liquid assets. Beauty and durability — Epifanes coatings offer you both. Our long lasting varnish formulas let you craft brightwork that outshines and outlasts the rest. Our two-part Poly-urethane paints flow perfectly and apply easily with a roller-only application, resulting in superior abrasion protection and an unsurpassed mirror-like finish. Look for Epifanes at your favourite marine store. And check out the “Why We Roll” video on our Facebook page. AALSMEER, HOLLAND Q THOMASTON, ME Q MIDLAND, ONTARIO Q ABERDEEN, HONG KONG +1 207 354 0804 Q www.epifanes.com FOLLOW US 2 OCC FOUNDED 1954 offi cers COMMODORE Simon Currin VICE COMMODORES Daria Blackwell Paul Furniss REAR COMMODORES Jenny Crickmore-Thompson Zdenka Griswold REGIONAL REAR COMMODORES GREAT BRITAIN Beth & Bone Bushnell IRELAND Alex Blackwell NORTH WEST EUROPE Hans Hansell NORTH EAST USA Dick & Moira Bentzel SOUTH EAST USA Bill & Lydia Strickland WEST COAST NORTH AMERICA Ian Grant CALIFORNIA & MEXICO (W) Rick Whiting NORTH EAST AUSTRALIA Nick Halsey SOUTH EAST AUSTRALIA Paul & Lynn Furniss ROVING REAR COMMODORES Nicky & Reg Barker, Suzanne & David Chappell, Andrew Curtain, Franco Ferrero & Kath McNulty, Ernie Godshalk, Frank Hatfull, Bill Heaton & Grace Arnison, Alistair Hill, Barry Kennedy, Stuart & Anne Letton, Pam McBrayne & Denis Moonan, Sarah & Phil Tadd, Sue & Andy Warman PAST COMMODORES 1954-1960 Humphrey Barton 1994-1998 Tony Vasey 1960-1968 Tim Heywood 1998-2002 Mike Pocock 1968-1975 Brian Stewart 2002-2006 Alan Taylor 1975-1982 Peter Carter-Ruck 2006-2009 Martin Thomas 1982-1988 John Foot 2009-2012 Bill McLaren 1988-1994 Mary Barton 2012-2016 John Franklin 2016-2019 Anne Hammick SECRETARY Rachelle Turk Westbourne House, 4 Vicarage Hill Dartmouth, Devon TQ6 9EW, UK Tel: (UK) +44 20 7099 2678 Tel: (USA) +1 844 696 4480 e-mail: [email protected] EDITOR, FLYING FISH Anne Hammick Tel: +44 1326 212857 e-mail: [email protected] OCC ADVERTISING Details page 232 OCC WEBSITE www.oceancruisingclub.org 1 CONTENTS PAGE Editorial 3 Passage to San Francisco 5 Ellen Massey Leonard There and Back Again ... A Baltic Cruise 16 Neil Matson Bermuda to England –... My First Sailing Experience, Part 1 27 John Robshaw Sending Submissions to Flying Fish 34 The Western Caribbean’s Best Kept Secret 37 Chris Burry & Madeline Hibberd Sailing the Eastern Seaboard... and North Atlantic 53 Timothy J Cooke Malaysia to Madagascar 58 Graham & Avril Johnson From the galley of ... 71 Leanne Vogel, Anne Hammick (also on pages 172 & 209) & Marcia Larason Cérès through the Russian... Inland Waterways, Part 3 73 Thierry J-L Courvoisier Medical Emergency in the Caribbean 85 Rosemary Brown Sailing the Ring of Fire, Part 2 91 Andy & Sue Warman Sourdough Bread and Focaccia 105 Tim Bridgen Cruising ‘The Rock’ at Leisure 113 Simon Currin Book Reviews 125 South China Sea, Ocean Sailing, The Complete Yacht Security Handbook, Atlantic Spain and Portugal, Stress- Free Sailing & Stress-Free Navigation, Europe’s Sea Mammals, Voyage of the Harrier, Pressure Cooking Every Day Cuba – Never Have A Schedule 137 Nicky Barker Close Encounters 153 Alex Blackwell Crossing the Pacific: Colón to Tahiti 159 Helena Klocke Pacific Sailing with Nick Lowes 173 Sheelagh Lowes & Neva G Sullaway The Auckland Islands 178 Vicky & Tom Jackson Lydia round the Cape... and across the South Atlantic 192 Donald Begg The Art of Going Solo 202 Eugénie Nottebohm Left or Right at Bardsey Island? 211 Stephanie Connor &.Martin Fuller Obituaries and Appreciations 222 Advertisers in Flying Fish 231 Advertising Rates and Deadlines 232 HEALTH WARNING The information in this publication is not to be used for navigation. It is largely anecdotal, while the views expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily shared nor endorsed by the OCC or its members. The material in this journal may be inaccurate or out-of-date – you rely upon it at your own risk. 2 I nearly always write my editorial at the very last minute, with the justification that until I know exactly what the issue will contain, how can I write about it? But this time I have four things on my list – no five! – so here we go... Having bade goodbye to Bungay Printers in my June editorial, I’d be saying ‘hello’ to Hobbs the Printers if I hadn’t already visited them in Southampton, as well as having been corresponding with them for the past six months or so. This is their first Fish, following the September Newsletter, and they’ve already proved themselves both pleasant and professional to work with. I foresee a long and successful partnership. Secondly, as someone who never passed a language exam at school and is now struggling to learn Portuguese, I have to mention the three members who have written articles for this issue despite English not being their first language. Thierry Courvoisier shares the third part of Cérès’s voyage through the Russian inland waterways, Helena Klocke continues her passage aboard Kiwa begun in the last issue, and we join Eugénie Nottebohm aboard Guilia as she progresses from a nervous newbie skipper to an accomplished singlehander, largely illustrated by her own drawings and watercolours. I’m filled with admiration for all three! As the author of a number of books I was also very impressed by Leanne Vogel’s Western Caribbean Cookbook, which features nearly 80 recipes contributed by participants in the 2018–2019 OCC Suzie Too Rally from Curaçao to Belize. Plainly a great deal of socialising went on and, as we all know, when yachties socialise food nearly always features. Many of her fellow cooks have given permission for their recipes to appear in Flying Fish, and the first two will be found in this issue with more to follow in the future. Alternatively, visit https://oceancruisingclub.org/Publications to download the entire book as a PDF or order a hard copy – it would make an excellent present for a fellow sailor. Next, I owe sincere apologies to Alastair Fraser who should have been credited, together with his sister Caroline, for the obituary about their mother Ann in Flying Fish 2019/1. I’m confident that Ann would have understood, however – an unforgettable character and good friend, she was famous for losing and mislaying things! Finally the usual reminder – the submissions DEADLINE for Flying Fish 2020/1 is Saturday 1st February, but as I have three articles already on file, plus another three promised, it would be unwise to leave it until the last moment. If you’ve not contributed previously please take a look at Sending Submissions to Flying Fish on page 34, or the more detailed Guidelines for Contributors downloadable from the website at https:// oceancruisingclub.org/Flying-Fish-Archive. I shall be away – and away from wifi – for much of December, however, so don’t panic if you e-mail me and don’t get a proper reply for weeks, though I’ll post an out-of-office message if I can remember how! Cover photo: Celeste with a bone in her teeth en route to San Francisco from Cape Flattery, Washington State – see ‘Passage to San Francisco’, page 5. Photo Ellen Massey Leonard and Seth Leonard 3 WiFi onboard Specialists in WiFi, 4G and satellite for reliable internet onboard Unbeatable prices on WiFi, 4G & satellite • Iridium 9555/9575 handheld phones • Inmarsat Fleet One and FleetBroadBand FB150 / FB250 • Iridium Pilot and NEW! Iridium Certus • WiFi boosters and 4G modems World class backup & support • Excellent after sales service • Global delivery and technical support • Who else will you call mid-ocean? Joining the dots • Email compression services • Blogging and position tracking • Weather services - use your favourite app! • Firewalls to control spend Buy from the market leaders in communications (Don’t forget to ask for your OCC discount!) Proud sponsors of the 2019 MailASail Azores and Back Yacht Race! AZORES AND BACK RACE 2019 +44 20 70432832 www.mailasail.com4 PASSAGE TO SAN FRANCISCO Ellen Massey Leonard (Following a four-year circumnavigation from 2006 until 2010, Ellen and Seth are now based in Hawaii. Over the past six years they have cruised most of the Pacific rim from Alaska to Mexico, in addition to completing a second Pacific crossing followed by a three-month cruise through the French Polynesian islands. Celeste is a 40ft wooden cutter, designed by Francis Kinney and built by Bent Jespersen in Sidney, BC in 1986. Although classic above the waterline, she sports a fin keel and a separate skeg-hung rudder. All photographs were taken by Ellen or Seth, as was this issue’s dramatic cover photo. Visit their impressive blog at https://gonefloatabout.com/ for many more.) The West Coast of the United States is not known for its idyllic sailing grounds. From Washington’s Juan de Fuca Strait down to San Francisco, and even beyond, the coast is a rock-strewn lee shore, indented by only a few harbours with difficult bar entrances. The most notorious of these is the Columbia River, infamous for its enormous breaking waves. The northern West Coast is known for fog, strong, cold winds, confused seas and a south-flowing current that eddies weirdly at Cape Mendocino and other headlands. In short, it’s a place most sailors just want to get past in order to reach the warmer climes of Mexico and the idyllic cruising in the Sea of Cortez. Sailors in the Pacific Northwest, contemplating the passage south, all agree that the trip isn’t easy and that the longer you wait in the year the worse the passage will be. They also tend to concur on calling in at San Francisco Bay, a milestone after which the hops are shorter and the weather milder.
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