STEVENSON’S TRAIL

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON’S CÉVENNES TRAIL

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON’S CEVENNES TRAIL SUMMARY On the 22nd. September 1878 the young Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson left on foot from Monastier sur Gazeille in the Haut- with a pack donkey called Modestine. 12 days, 156 miles and a host of adventures later he arrived at St. Jean du Gard, his trek immortalised in the 1879 classic, ''Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes''

Today we invite you to recreate his fascinating journey with considerably more certainty and comfort. You stay in locally selected guesthouses, eat the best of local cuisine and carry only a light day bag. In short, a classic walking tour that takes you both through literary history and delightfully unexplored regions of rural .

Starting from the volcanic plateau of the Velay, Stevenson's Trail takes you south through a country of mountains cut by river valleys and criss-crossed by ancient footpaths and drovers tracks through remote areas of forgotten France.

From Le Puy, by way of the Haut Loire where high summer pastures of wild flowers and yellow gorse are set off by wooded hillsides of dark green pines, you will find Romanesque Abbey Churches, fields sown Tour: Stevenson’s Trail with the world famous Le Puy lentils and sweet scented May Narcissi. Code: WFSST1-3 Type: Self-Guided Walking Holiday The Velay gives way to legendary Gevaudan in modern Ardeche, a gently undulating landscape of Price: See Website enchanting woods, ancient stone bridges over mountain streams to the Trappist Abbey, Notre Dame des Single Supplement: See Website Neige (our Lady of the Snows) where Robert Louis spent the night. Dates: April - October Walking Days: 5, 6 or 11 Reaching the half-way point, you enter the UNESCO protected National Park of the Cevennes to ascend Nights: 6, 7 or 12 the heather-clad slopes of Mont Lozere. Guided by prehistoric standing stones you gain the highest point Start: Le Puy en Velay Finish: St Jean du Gard on the trail -- that strange, granite rock-strewn, 'Summit of Finiels' (1699m) which rewards you with it's breathtaking panorama of the 'Sea of Mountains' stretching to the far horizon as though untouched by time. Is the Stevenson Trail for me? Of course it’s for you! Wonderful walking, delicious The Cevennes of Cevennes, as Robert Louis Stephenson called it, lies ahead. Descending through the French food and the spectacular scenery. The land of the Protestant Camisards (where the 17th century military road built to control their area cuts idyllic rural countryside and literary connections across wide moorlands) there are lichen-covered dry stonewalls, terraced hillsides, villages and hamlets make this a particularly engaging route. with stone-covered roofs among cascading streams. Pine trees give way to evergreen oaks that cling to the dry rocky hillsides of the Mediterranean, sweet chestnut groves and myrtle bushes and your destination at St. Jean du Grad

What’s Included? HIGHLIGHTS Accommodation: Hand picked auberges, inns and small hotels. Meals: All breakfasts, 5,4,9 evening meals Baggage Transfer: Luggage transfer is included.  Congratulating yourself on finding the finest trail in rural France Information Pack: Guide Book, detailed maps and information Pack and emergency support.  Drinking in the vast views of the Sea of Mountains and the blue Mediterranean skies.  Hunting for the Black Virgins in the basalt steep-stair streets of Le Puy  Soaking in the atmosphere over a glass of vin and delicious local cheeses in a field of wild flowers.  Looking out over the ‘Sea of Mountains’ in the Cévennes & feeling on top of the world  Exploring 2 UNESCO World Heritage Sites and the National Park of the Cévennes

STEVENSON’S TRAIL

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON’S CÉVENNES TRAIL

ITINERARIES Day Route M DETAILED ITINERARY We offer three itineraries on Stevenson’s Trail 1 Arrive Le Puy En Velay 0 DAY 1: ARRIVE LE PUY-EN-VELAY covering the North, South or entire length on the 2 Walk from Chasserades to Le 9.5 trail. The ancient medieval town, now a UNESCO Bleymard World Heritage site, is dominated by 3 3 Walk to Le-Pont-de-Montvert 12 ‘Puys’ (steep volcanic plugs) crowned by the Walk to Florac 14.5 THE NORTH: WFSST1 4 11 massive statue of Mary, the ancient Cathedral 5 Walk to and St Michel’s chapel. Almost unchanged in a 6 Walk to St-Etienne-Valley- 14 LE PUY-EN-VELAY TO CHASSERADES Française 1000 years the medieval houses, alleys and 7 Walk to St-Jean-du-Gard 8.5 steep-streets nestling below are bustling with Walking Days: 5 8 Au Revoir to the Stevenson Trail. Nights: 6 shops traditional lace making, little restaurants Average Daily Distance: 12.1miles and café terraces. Grade: Moderate to Strenuous Description: The Northern section of ENTIRE ROUTE: WFSST3 Overnight: As you’ll stay privately with one of Stevenson’s Trail explores the Haut Loire and our hostesses in their own historic home you’ll LE PUY-EN-VELAY TO ST-JEAN-DU- the Romanesque Abbey Churches are a delght. have a unique chance to soak up the GARD atmosphere and discover the town floodlit at Walking Days: 11 night. Or maybe take the gourmet dinner option Day Route M Nights: 12 at Du Parc. Average Daily Distance: 13miles 1 Arrive Le Puy En Velay 0 Grade: Moderate to Strenuous DAY 2: LE MONASTIER-SUR- 2 Walk Monastier-sur-Gazeille to le 14 Description: Follow Robert Louis Stevenson’s GAZEILLE TO LE BOUCHET-ST- Bouchet-St-Nicolas journey in it’s entirety to get the most from your 3 17 NICOLAS (1217M) Walk to visit to this beautiful corner of France. 4 10 14 mls / 23km. 6hr15. +460 m, -175 m. (Private 5 Walk to Cheylard L’Évêque 12 6 Walk to La Bastide Puylaurent 7.5 Day Route M transfer from Le Puy to Monastier) 7 Walk to Chasserades Au Revoir to the Stevenson Trail. Where RLS had to jettison the egg whisk and a 1 Arrive Le Puy En Velay 0 leg of mutton. 2 Walk Monastier-sur-Gazeille to le 14 Bouchet-St-Nicolas Your adventure in Stevenson’s footsteps begins! 3 17 Walk to Langogne THE SOUTH: WFSST2 4 10 Descend to cross the Gazeille River before 5 Walk to Cheylard L’Évêque 12 climbing to Courmarcés and St-Martin-de- LE PUY-EN-VELAY / CHASSERADES TO Walk to La Bastide Puylaurent 6 7.5 Fugéres by ancient lanes and byways. Cross the ST-JEAN-DU-GARD Walk to Chasserades 9.5 7 Walk to Le Bleymard 12 gorge of the Loire at (ideal spot for picnic Walking Days: 6 8 Walk to Le-Pont-de-Montvert 14.5 lunch) to reach the high volcanic plateau. On Nights: 7 9 Walk to Florac 11 passed several small hamlets set amidst a 10 14 Average Daily Distance: 11.6m Walk to Cassagnas patchwork of black volcanic soil and green fields Grade: Moderate to Strenuous 11 Walk to St-Etienne-Valley- 8.5 of Puy lentils to the isolated hamlet of Le Description: This is the most popular section 12 Française Bouchet Saint Nicolas. of the trail as you are walking in the Cévennes 13 Walk to St-Jean-du-Gard National Park for the majority of the walk. Overnight: Tonight’s modest auberge, owned by the local farming Villeseche family, is a rendezvous for walkers and locals alike or

sometimes we stay in one of the little village houses. Local style dinner and breakfast

included.

STEVENSON’S TRAIL

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON’S CÉVENNES TRAIL

DAY 3: LE BOUCHET-ST-NICOLAS 12 mls / 18.5 km. 5hrs45. +240 m, -380 m Chabalier, the historic hamlet of Chasserades, TO LANGOGNE (915M) (14.5mls / 23.5 kms 7hrs for Monastery) and tiny Mirandol with its distinctive ‘Lauzes’ roof tiles and massif 30m Viaduct. 17 mls / 27km. 6.45hrs. +315 m. -575 m. Where RLS met Father Apollinaris and overcame his terror. Overnight: Either the fantastic Hotel Les When RLS got a goad and things start to go Sources, or a friendly, welcoming B&B. Dinner Fine valley walking today through rolling hills and more smoothly! Included. forests by Les Pradels to breathtaking views of Today the high plateau ridge to the market town the distant Blue Cévennes Mountains. Joining DAY 7: CHASSERADES TO of is followed by super walking via the medieval route to Luc before descending by BLEYMARD (1413M) Arquejol & the railway viaduct, crossing a deep rough mule track into the valley and the ravine. Detouring briefly, you can reach Rocher Ardeche department at Laveyrune. An hour 8.5 mls /14 kms, approx 4.5 hrs de la Fagette (1265) with distant views to further on and the route divides for the From Chasseradès the trail lies by tiny Mirandol rounded volcanic mountain tops, Naussac Monastery or the small village of La Bastide. with its distinctive ‘Lauzes’ roof tiles and massif reservoir and nearby historic Pradelles, follow. 30m Viaduct. The forest-covered Goulet Massif We often stop in at Stephanie’s café on the Overnight: You may choose to stay at either is the first major climb on the trail and more than square in the austerely beautiful Pradelle before place. We usually stay with Florence and Pascal rewarded by the breathtaking panorama. descending to the larger market town of at their Hotel in the centre of La Bastide, which is (1413m) La Bleymard, gateway to the Cevennes Langogne. (pop 3282) modest, simple and welcoming with dinner included. National Park, lies below via the drove road, ‘La Overnight: Despite the main road it remains a Drailles des Mulets’ and a steep decent by the backwater reminiscent of a bygone era. We One of the highlights of this trail is the Trappist source of the Lot River. usually stay in the somewhat faded grandeur of Monastery of Notre Dame des Neige, where RLS Overnight: You will stay either stay with Tiny at the old coaching Hotel, or take a taxi the short spent a night, attended church services, enjoying her delightful chalet home before the decent into drive to the holiday village, stunningly located on the company of the monks after overcoming his the village or maybe with Claude and Jean- the lake. Dinner is included in both. initial terror of the place! Today they have a small number of monastic style rooms available with Francois is the heart of the village at their busy, DAY 4: LANGOGNE TO CHEYLARD dinner and are famous for their wine called Fleur simple hotel. Dinner included. L’ÉVEQUE (1125M) des Neige. We always leave with a pot of their DAY 8: LE BLEYMARD TO LE PONT- delicious honey. 10 mls / 16km. 4.10hrs. +320 m, -150 m DE-MONTVERT (875M) When RLS became hopelessly lost thanks to two DAY 6: LA BASTIDE-PUYLAURENT 12mls / 19km. 6hrs. +630 m, -824 m. villages with confusingly similar names. TO CHASSERADES (1150M) Where RLS spent the night under the stars Undulating walking by dark forests and small 7.5 mls /12 kms, approx. 3.5 hrs, +330 m, -160m. The old drove road climbs steeply through pine streams crossed by ancient humpback bridges Where RLS gets a bed to himself. forests by the Col Santel (1200) before emerging as you discover the remote Gévaudan at the Mont Lozère Chalet, ski station. The countryside. Passing Saint-Flour-de-Mercoire First by La Mourade, (1308m), fine high country barren Finiels summit, over 5000ft. (1699m), the (1049m) and the Cathedral-like Mercoire forest to walking and stunning panoramic views south to highest point in the Cevennes and the trail, lies Sagne-Rousse, where RLS got hopelessly lost. the Cévennes mountains. Then through the ahead. Ancient standing stones, or Montjoies, Later, an ancient sunken track descends to the majestic Forest Domaniale de la Gardille to mark the route as the awe-inspiring panorama of remote hamlet of Cheylard L’Eveque. Chabalier, the historic hamlet of Chasserades, and tiny Mirandol with its distinctive ‘Lauzes’ roof the Cevennes as Stevenson’s ‘Cevennes de Overnight: In the charming local Auberge with tiles and massif 30m Viaduct. This is the longest Cevennes’, opens up below. Descending the typical regional dinner served at long tables and highest walking day of the trail so far. First rough steep track through the photogenic bustling with fellow walkers from around the by La Mourade, (1308m), fine high country scattered boulders, or chaos, to the lively world and a hearty breakfast walking and stunning panoramic views south to mountain village of Pont-de-Montvert (pop 302) and its renowned humpback bridge over the High DAY 5: CHEYLARD L’ÉVEQUE TO the Cévennes mountains. Then through the majestic Forest Domaniale de la Gardille to Tarn. LA BASTIDE-PUYLAURENT (1024M) STEVENSON’S TRAIL

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON’S CÉVENNES TRAIL

The 18th C. Camisard’s war that broke-out here challenging walk by hills and balcony paths de-Cote to join the Gardon river walk and by the so fascinated RLS that, by following in their among the red-rock scenery of the Mimenti valley ancient bridge into the main town of St Jean du footsteps, he became for many, the ‘Father’ of up to by Saint-Julien-D’Arpaon. By contrast the Gard, where Stevenson sold his donkey today’s walkers. enchanting countryside following the gorge along Modestine. the disused railway track to Cassagnas, makes Overnight: Sometimes we can’t resist stopping 3 Overnight: Our historic hotel is where for a delightful stroll. km before to stay in the delightful mountain Stevenson caught the stagecoach, set amidst the hamlet of Finiels at Jacqueline B&B with her Overnight: We’re spoilt for choice here, bustle of this Mediterranean influenced town. lovely dinners or we can sometimes enjoy the sometimes heading to Isabelle’s Gipsy Caravans Tonight we’ll toast RLS and our amazing travels use of the barbecue terrace at Jean-Marc’s or drinking in the scenery from the tranquil with a glass or two and maybe a delightful dinner spacious mini ‘maison’ just over the bridge in garden at Stephanie’s B&B. However our in the restaurant next-door. Montvert where dinner is not included. favourite is to carry on to Le Chateau du Cauvel, either by walking the extra 8 km or having DAY 13: ST JEAN DU GARD DAY 9: LE PONT-DE-MONTVERT TO hopped a lift part route with the bags in the After a light breakfast it’s ‘Au Revoir’ to FLORAC (546M) morning! Stevenson’s Trail. 17.5 mls /28km 8hrs +545 m, - 875 m. (option to DAY 11: CASSAGNAS TO ST- shave 4 kms off this day) ÉTIENNE-VALLEY-FRANÇAISE TRAVEL INFORMATION Where RLS had lunch with 3 women and flirted (255m) with the waitress! 14mls /22.5km 4.45hrs. +320m, -710m. Getting to Le Puy en Velay Walking doesn’t come much better than this as Lyon is the closest airport, 125km North West of Chestnuts! Forested Camisards country among we head into the heart of the Cévennes and the Le Puy. Nimes, Montpellier and Clerment the Chestnut trees as the trail circles below the capital, Florac. This, the longest hiking day, with Ferrand are also possibilities. watershed of Mount Mars (1162m) making the energetic ascents and descents, rewards us with easy climb to La Plan de Fontmort before we join From the airport there is a fast train link (30 mins) daylong spectacular views. By the Bouges Ridge various other forested GR trails to arrive at the to the main train station, Gare de Lyon Part-Dieu and summit (1421m), & Col du Sapet (1080m), Col de la Pierre Plantee (891m) and the last of and from here the TGV will whisk you via Saint- with its mysterious standing stones before our mysterious standing stones. Descending Etienne-Châteaucreux to down town Le Puy in dropping down to Bedoués (560m) and Florac down to Le Serre de la Can and St -Germain-de- 2.20hrs giving you your first glimpse of stunning (pop1998). Here the confluence of 3 rivers, which Calberte before joining a pleasant ancient track Southern France. cascade merrily through the crumbling old following the chestnut groves to the valley and St historic quarter, give a feel of Venice. (If the day -Etienne-Valley-Française. From St Jean-du-Gard is too long you can shave 4klms off its end by the GR68.) Overnight: Either we stay at the fascinating goat You can either take a combination of bus and farm where they make amazing cheese or with train back to Le Puy or we can book a private Overnight: In the local hotel, renowned for it’s Madame Thomas at her B&B in this typical transfer, which is recommended. great food or at Veronique and Denis’s historic village with dinner arranged in the local bistro. B&B, with restaurant below, in the heart of the quaint old quarter. DAY 12: ST-ÉTIENNE-VALLEY- HOLIDAY INFORMATION DAY 10: FLORAC TO CASSAGNAS FRANÇAISE TO ST-JEAN-DU-GARD (190m) (693m) Accommodation 8.5mls. / 12.5km 7.15hr. +350m, -410m. 11 mls / 17.4km. 5hrs. +200m, -50m. We specifically choose our accommodation for A long climb up to Col de Saint-Pierre (597m) comfort, location and real authenticity. All are Where RLS had lunch in the company of a and Signal de Saint-Pierre (695) is rewarded by owner operated 2 & 3* star hotels / auberge/ gendarme and a merchant the breathtaking 360 panorama of the Cévennes B&B with ensuite rooms that offer a genuinely With spectacular scenery all day the first part is a mountains. Downhill to the pretty hamlet of Pied- warm welcome. STEVENSON’S TRAIL

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON’S CÉVENNES TRAIL

Accommodation Details limestone. Where possible the route avoids made up roads and in some sections the rocks HOW TO BOOK We will always try and accommodate you at the can be loose underfoot. locations detailed, but because of limited availability we may have to accommodate you at Once you have read all the information in this Navigation factsheet or our website and decided on your an alternative location of the same or better You will be following the GR70, (GR= Grande preferred itinerary, visit our website or give us a standard or for 2 nights in the same place. Randonnée or main walking routes) which is call to confirm availability. You can then book Alternative details will be noted on your securely online at www.macsadventure.com by clearly way marked with the famous red and accommodation sheet. phone: +44 (0) 141 530 8886, Fax/Post: white strips, whether on a passing tree, rock, or Download or request a booking form and post it Single Rooms & Solo Walkers post. We supply very detailed route notes (you to Macs Adventure Ltd, 44 Speirs Wharf, will need to be familiar with basic compass use to Glasgow, G4 9TH, UK or fax it to +44 (0) 845 Single rooms are available but attract a follow these in some places) and maps so 527 5688. supplement. This is a great holiday for solo navigation is generally easy. Heavy rains, winds walkers. If you are travelling solo the holiday is and fog do sometimes affect sections of the trail. slightly more expensive as some costs are not BOOK WITH CONFIDENCE shared. AVAILABILITY & PRICES Financial Security Meals Availability & Price In accordance with "The Package Travel, The delicious French food and wine available You can start this walking tour on any date from Package Holidays and Package Tours locally is undoubtedly a highlight of this holiday. Easter until the end of October, subject to Regulations1992" all passengers booking with The price of your holiday includes breakfast each availability. Up to date prices are available on our Macs Adventure Ltd are fully protected for the morning. Dinner is included on 5, 4 & 9 nights website. initial deposit and subsequently the balance of all respectively for the North, South and Entire walk. monies paid to us, including repatriation if All your hosts will prepare a packed lunch if you Included required (this insurance will not cover repatriation let them know in advance. 7-10€ approx pp. or to the country of origin for the passengers 6,7,12 Nights Accommodation in B&B’s,  outside of the EU), arising from cancellation or you can pick up a crusty baguette, some auberges and small hotels. fantastic local cheese, sweet ripe fruit and picnic curtailment of your travel arrangements due to  6, 7, 12 Breakfasts en route. the insolvency of Macs Adventure Ltd  5, 4, 9 Dinners Baggage Transfer  Door to door baggage transfer of 1 bag of up ABTA Member Statement to 15kg per person. Your bags will be transferred from your Macs Adventure Holidays Detailed guidebook, information pack and accommodation onto your next overnight stop.  is a Member of ABTA. maps for the group leader. We ask you to limit your luggage to one bag of ABTA and ABTA Members up to 15kg per person. Please make sure they  Emergency support from our local and UK help holidaymakers to get offices in the event of a problem. are clearly marked with your name and next the most from their travel and assist when things nights accommodation.  Le Puy to Monastier-sur-Gazeille transfer. don’t go according to plan. We are obliged to maintain a high standard of service to you by Walking Grade ABTA’s Code of Conduct. For more information Excluded This holiday is graded moderate to strenuous on ABTA, the Code of Conduct and the because some of the daily walks are relatively  Meals not detailed in the itinerary arbitration scheme available to you if you have a complaint, contact ABTA, 30 Park Street, London long over undulating terrain while in the later half  Travel to start/from end of the walk. SE1 9EQ, tel 020 3117 0581 www.abta.com the terrain is very hilly and summer temperatures  Travel Insurance. can be high.  Personal Equipment. The walks follow ancient footpaths, sheep tracks  Taxi transfers or public transport should you and drove roads. Over Basalt, granite, schist and need to skip a stage.