Ecotourism Now and in the Future

VOLUME 20 ISSUE 6 An Integrated Curriculum of The Washington Post Newspaper In Education Program

■ Post Reprint: “What is ‘green travel,’ anyway? A beginner’s guide to eco-friendly vacation planning.” ■ Post Reprint: “Camping is back, with fewer people and activities and more cleaning and waiting” ■ KidsPost Reprint: “Jaguar release is a step to saving the species in Argentina” ■ Post Reprint: “Halt in ecotourism threatens conservation efforts worldwide” ■ Post Reprint: Partnering to help travelers go greener ■ Student Activity: Green Future or Economic Paradise?

INTRODUCTION

What Shape Will Your Travel Take?

In the 19th Century the Grand Tour taken by wealthy and fashionable young men not only included cultural Europe but also the natural habitats of Malaysia, unexplored islands and the Amazon. The idea of immersion in the natural environment to learn from it was refined into today’s concepts of ecotourism. As defined by The International Ecotourism Society, it is “responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment, sustains the well-being of the local people, and involves interpretation and education.”

Articles in this resource guide explain green travel and provide a 2021 update. Read and discuss to see how outdoor activities and the travel industry have changed. Will you bike, camp, hike or walk? A realistic account of life in a campground and RV is found in “Camping is back, with fewer people and activities and more cleaning and waiting.”

Another angle on ecotourism is found in articles that focus on its benefits and challenges. To what extent are wildlife, local inhabitants and the land saved by ecotourism? Marred by it?

The Green Future or Economic Paradise? activity and readings demonstrate the clashes in goals of developers, business owners and environmentalists in Brazil. Alter Do Chao and Fernando de Noronha both are case studies that highlight the roles of government and volunteers, of policies and practices, of individuals and international organizations, of preservationists and developers.

When pandemic restrictions are eased and doors open, what shape will your travel take?

SVTDESIGN/ADPBE STOCK

On the cover: GOOD STUDIO / ADOBE STOCK

STYLE What is ‘green travel,’ anyway? A beginner’s guide to eco-friendly vacation planning.

of falsehood called greenwashing. ecotourism, commends the efforts of by Andrea Sachs But don’t let these challenges deter you. Namibia, where its constitution includes “When our choices align with our eco- habitat conservation and the protection • Originally Published May 18, 2017 interests and values,” said Dawn Head, of natural resources, and Ecuador, which owner and editor of the online resource Go placed 97 percent of the Galapagos’s If you travel, you will leave a charcoal Green Travel Green, “it doesn’t feel like we landmass under the watchful gaze of its smudge in your wake. You can’t help it. are making sacrifices to be green.” national park service. Planes spew carbon emissions, hotels For guidance on planning the ultimate “The environment has its own rights in guzzle gallons of water to launder sheets eco-trip, we turned to a panel of green- Ecuador,” he said. and towels, and thirsty travelers chug-a-lug travel experts. Follow their tips and watch Among emerging locales, Bruno is plastic bottles of water. But don’t let the your footprints turn greener with each step keeping an eye on Uzbekistan, a former guilt dampen your vacation. Eco-friendly of your journey. Soviet republic with a burgeoning travel practices can lift the remorse and lighten the blemish on Mother Earth. Green travel is not a passing trend but a portable lifestyle choice. According to a TripAdvisor survey, nearly two- thirds of travelers plan to make more environmentally sound choices over the next year. A majority of respondents said that they turn off the lights when leaving their rooms, participate in the hotel’s program to reuse linens and towels, and recycle on-site. Travelers can do much more by building an eco-trip block by block. “Sustainable travel is all about creating a positive effect on the communities you visit,” said Jon Bruno, executive director TOMI UM FOR THE WASHINGTON POST of the International Ecotourism Society. “Leave the place better than you found it.” outdoor culture (skiing, mountaineering, Easy, right? Not always. Choosing a green destination white-water rafting, birding); alternative Environmentalists often tout arcane lodging, such as yurts and cooperative- terms such as low-VOC paint, warm-mix No destination is a Green Giant; they all run guesthouses in the Nuratau-Kyzylkum asphalt and aeroponic gardening. Eco- make environmental missteps. However, Biosphere Reserve; and more than 1,000 extremists can make you feel guilty for some countries and cities demonstrate native varieties of apples. In Brazil, he wanting a hot shower and lightbulbs that a deep commitment to Earth-friendly praises the ambitions of the town of Bonito, don’t cause eyestrain. And less-than-honest policies and practices. Ask for a recycling the Portuguese word for beautiful. properties and tour operators embellish bin and they’ll point to three. “This little town has put everything their Earth-friendly achievements, an act Bruno, whose organization promotes behind ecotourism,” he said. “The Rio da

Prata is so clear, it feels as if you’re hanging rock worn down by countless pairs of feet. a fuel-efficient vehicle. Hertz introduced in the air watching the fish float by.” “Choosing a place because it might the Green Traveler Collection in 2011. Closer to home, Bruno high-fives Hilton not be there any longer?” she said. “Well, The program, which is available at select Head, S.C., a surprising choice considering you’re destroying it.” locations, stocks a variety of models, such its reputation as a golf-and-tennis haven. But the city has shown its green colors as a member of Tree City USA and Audubon International’s Sustainable Communities Program. It is also one of two towns on the East Coast to have received gold- level status from the League of American Bicyclists. The 12-by-4-mile island may be compact, but its bike paths stretch like Silly String across 60 miles of terrain. Everyone and their science teacher seems to publish an annual list of the world’s greenest destinations. Dual Citizen, a consulting firm, released the fifth edition of its Global Green Economy Index last year. Of 80 countries and 50 cities surveyed, the company anointed Sweden the top green TOMI UM FOR THE WASHINGTON POST banana, followed by Norway and Finland. Among developing countries, the report as the Toyota Prius and Nissan LEAF. Some singled out Zambia, Ethiopia, Brazil and Choosing a green mode of peer-to-peer rental sites also list low-impact Costa Rica, but noted that the two African transportation cars. On Turo, visitors in San Francisco can countries need to burnish their “perception tool around in a Smart Fortwo, BMW 13 or ranking.” And while Asia didn’t fare well, What makes Mother Earth proud? Tesla, the sultan of electric vehicles. Cambodia did improve its standing, rising Seeing you use your own power to get Cruising can be very, very good or very, 20 spots to 20th. (For context, the United around. very bad. Sailboats and catamarans are as States placed 30th.) In the city category, Many adventure-tour operators, such gentle on the planet as a sea breeze; larger Copenhagen experienced deja vu when it as Backroads and VBT, arrange cycling, vessels can have a stormier effect on the returned to the No. 1 spot after holding it hiking and walking holidays. Bonus points environment. Friends of the Earth has some in 2014. if you can reach the starting point by bike unflinching words for cruisers. “Millions But don’t judge a destination by its or foot. of Americans take cruise vacations every ranking, or lack thereof. When researching Next in line are trains and buses. year,” the nonprofit organization wrote in a vacation spot, look for places that However, their impact on the environment the introduction to its annual Cruise Ship naturally embrace the green lifestyle. depends on such factors as route, fuel type Report Card. “Yet, most travelers don’t Telltale signs include a robust public and passenger load. realize that taking a cruise is more harmful transportation system, acres of parkland, “Among land transport, trains are to the environment and human health than walkable neighborhoods, designated bike generally very environmentally friendly,” many other forms of travel.” lanes, farmers markets and volunteer said Randy Durband, chief executive of It assessed 17 major cruise lines and opportunities. Your discoveries will the Global Sustainable Tourism Council. assigned grades that would make any bounce you all over the map, from Tokyo to “In terms of non-rail transport, the larger parent cry. Only one company, Disney, Chattanooga, Tenn., to Cape Town, South number of passengers per vehicle is best.” earned an A-minus; the other cruise lines Africa, to Adelaide, Australia. For Durband, the magic number is 40-plus. received Cs, Ds and Fs. Head has an important message for “last The greenest rides typically run on In their defense, the cruise lines have chancers”: Ignore the clarion call to “go electric power or alternative fuels and been making strides. They are installing before it’s gone.” She warns that travelers boast a high occupancy rate. Switzerland is LED lights and tinted windows, treating can do more harm than good by visiting leading the caravan with its hybrid buses black and gray water to near sipping endangered areas, such as a Pacific island and trains powered by hydroelectricity; standards, using low-sulphur fuels and under threat from rising seas, a melting Japan is running close behind. recycling all types of refuge. Last year, glacier in Antarctica and an aboriginal If you plan to drive, consider renting Royal Caribbean combined forces with the

World Wildlife Fund to set sustainability offered customers a means to offset carbon Choosing a green hotel goals for 2020, such as reducing carbon emissions. This is how it works: Calculate emissions and serving sustainable seafood. the CO2 from your trip and donate the No pressure, but . . . “The cruise industry is investing more corresponding amount to an organization “Once you are at your destination, if than $10 billion in new technologies, fuels of the carrier’s choosing. Cathay Pacific, you can get the hotel right,” Head said, and waste management systems, many of for one, supports a cooking and heating “you can make the greatest impact.” which are already deployed, as further project in China’s Shanxi Province; Qantas Unfortunately, hotels ribbit their protective measures for the environment,” directs funds to a group that conserves greenness louder than a pond of frogs. said a spokeswoman for the Cruise Lines the Tasmanian wilderness and restores The cacophony can be deafening, and International Association. indigenous practices in Western Australia. dishonest. This year, Hurtigruten announced Bruno backs the concept, with To silence the noise, Head suggests plans to explore even greener waters. The reservations. focusing on the issues that matter the most Norwegian cruise line is building two expedition ships that will run on hybrid technology, the world’s first of its kind. Imagine an aquatic Prius slipping silently through the fjords. “For too long, ‘innovation’ in the cruise industry has been a race to build bigger ships with more waterslides, bumper cars and surfing waves,” said Daniel Skjeldam, the company’s chief executive. “For us, innovation is all about honoring our Norwegian explorer heritage and moving the industry forward by developing technology and solutions that will benefit our guests and the environment.” And now for the black sheep of the chartreuse bunch: airplanes. TOMI UM FOR THE WASHINGTON POST “There really aren’t any green ways of flying,” Head said. “Just minimize as much “There is no industry standard or to you. Then find a hotel that matches your as you can.” transparent system that allows carbon- priorities. “Decide your cause and what To shrink your carbon footprint, the offset buyers to see what their purchase you won’t compromise on,” she said. experts offer a litany of suggestions. Travel has done,” Bruno said. “However, some Most major chains and many less but stay longer. Select a full flight standards are receiving greater acceptance. independent hotels operate in-house green on a large plane in a fuel-efficient fleet. They just aren’t anywhere near an industry programs. (Durband tips a hat to Accor and (A sampling: Norwegian Air, Finn Air, standard.” IHG.) Look for a fact sheet online, or call Alaska Air, Virgin Atlantic and Cathay Martha Honey, executive director the front desk and unleash the questions. Pacific.) Book the itinerary with the fewest of the Center for Responsible Travel, Ask them how they dispose of their number of connections, because takeoffs encourages travelers to offset their entire graywater and if they compost. Inquire and landings guzzle fuel. Patronize green vacation. This way, you can neutralize even about the bathroom fixtures and toiletries, airports, such as Chicago’s O’Hare, which more emissions and select the programs you in-room recycling bins and the provenance boasts an apiary and a vertical garden, and wish to support, including ones that benefit of the restaurant food. Boston’s Logan, which erected miniature your vacation destination. Companies such You can also search for hotels approved wind turbines. Pack light and bring a as Carbon Fund and Carbon Neutral can or accredited by respected certification refillable water bottle and snacks from assist with the calculations and vetting programs, such as Green Key, the Global home. And pass on first-class: The extra process. Honey shared some suggestions, Sustainable Tourism Council and the U.S. leg and elbow room is a waste of space and as well. Green Building Council, which oversees fuel. Feel free to spread your angel wings “Tree-planting is iffy. Sometimes they LEED certification. The most holistically as you pass through the Profligate Class to die,” she said. “Support renewable energy green hotels support the three pillars of Conservationist Coach. in your destination.” sustainable tourism: environmental, social Since the 1990s, some airlines have and economic.

“If you have an opportunity to stay with practices, speak up. “Suggesting ways a Many hotels and tour operators arrange a local provider in an eco-lodge,” Bruno hotel can become greener is a great way to short-term volunteer opportunities. For said, “that can be more sustainable” than push for change,” Jacobsen said. example, 1 Hotel Central Park, which a LEED hotel. One success story: In the 1980s, a guest partnered with Bette Midler’s New York The Unique Lodges of the World, a at the Bucuti & Tara Beach Resort in Aruba Restoration Project, invites guests to collection of 55 properties affiliated with shared his disappointment with the bar’s help beautify the city by watering trees, National Geographic, bang on all three use of plastic cups. Owner Ewald Biemans composting and pulling weeds. Participants drums. For example, Sabi Sabi Private agreed and eliminated the wasteful earn Lyft ride credits to the garden plus two Game Reserve in South Africa eradicates materials. Since that one exchange, the cocktails for their efforts. At Emirates One invasive species, employs a sustainable resort has racked up numerous awards and & Only Wolgan Valley in Australia, visitors wastewater management system and assists accolades for its environmental practices. can help conservationists by monitoring community programs that specialize in Last year, Green Globe, a certification feral animals, conducting wombat surveys education, health care, sports, culture and board, named the property the “Most and testing water quality. conservation. Sustainable Hotel & Resort in the World.” If you are more of the donate- As a guest, you can also advance the The resort scored a 98 out of 100. and-run kind of traveler, Laura Hoffman, cause without much effort. “Making environmentally friendly choices on your own during your stay can have a long-term impact on the environment and only takes small changes,” said Rhiannon Jacobsen, vice president of strategic relationships at the U.S. Green Building Council. Some ways you can help: Participate in the hotel’s linen-and-towel-reuse program and always flick off the lights when you leave the room. Skip the bottles of water in your room and refill your own beverage container. (Try HydraPak’s Stash or Klean Kanteen.) Decline housekeeping and, depending on the hotel, score a food-and- beverage credit. Use water glasses and TOMI UM FOR THE WASHINGTON POST coffee mugs instead of plastic or paper ones. At breakfast, ask the staff for real operations manager of Global Basecamps, tableware instead of disposable plates and Choosing green activities a socially responsible tour operator, utensils. Avoid buffets, which result in recommends Pack for a Purpose. After mounds of wasted food. Recycle. (Advises The Earth-friendly options are legion: you plan your trip, check the organization’s Durband: If the hotel is not “visibly You can sail, snorkel, scuba dive, hike, list of destinations and programs that seek recycling, ask them to begin doing so. They paddleboat, paddleboard, kayak, bike, supplies. In Jamaica, for example, Beaches need to hear this from more customers.”) swim, bird-watch and play I-spy-a-monkey Negril Resort & Spa works with Mount Borrow the property’s bikes and utilize in a tree. Visit a crafts or food market, and Airy All Age School, which serves 650 its shuttle service. Wear outfits more than don’t forget to bring a reusable bag for children. Visitors can pick from a long list once, or if you must do laundry, find a local purchases. Take a tour that employs local of items to donate, such as pens, Frisbees, facility that supports the community. Don’t guides. Give yourself an extra pat on the tennis balls and board games — basically fall for those wee bathroom amenities; back if the company donates some of its all the clutter in your garage that you have bring or buy your own and take them proceeds to a local conservation group or been meaning to clear out. ■ home or donate them. (Advanced activism: charity. Encourage your hotel to enroll in Clean You can also lend a hand during your Andrea Sachs has written for Travel since 2000. the World, a nonprofit organization that holiday. “The green movement has changed She has reported from nearby places such as sends donated hotel toiletries to developing from how to preserve and protect to how to Ellicott City, Md., and the Jersey Shore, and countries.) use less and do good when you’re there,” from far-flung locations, including Burma, If you notice a lapse in the hotel’s eco- Head said. Namibia and Russia.

TRAVEL Camping is back, with fewer people and activities and more cleaning and waiting

by Danielle Braff • Originally Published June 5, 2020 Kristi Haight was getting very tired of staring at her four walls. So the Greensboro, N.C., blogger packed up her family, face masks, hand sanitizer and food — and went camping for the weekend at a beach in South Carolina, coronavirus-style. The family brought their own food and drink for the trip, avoiding restaurants and gas station stores, Haight said. When they reached the beach, “we spent all of our time at the campground and at our campsite.” In the covid-19 world, camping might be the hottest getaway around. As of June 1, about 80 percent of campgrounds, RV parks and camping locations on Campendium — Marta Jerebets, left, and Arthur Pettit have plenty of space around them as they JAE C. HONG/AP a Web app listing about 30,000 campsites pitch their tent on a campground at Joshua Tree National Park in California in mid- throughout the United States, Canada and May. Experts advise choosing as remote a site as possible. Mexico — were open, according to Leigh Wetzel, co-founder of Campendium. doubled compared with this time last the trip. “We just felt this was the best Each state has its own guidelines and year, while Arkansas, Utah and Wyoming possible option to see dear friends while rules when it comes to camping mid- sites have grown more than 50 percent, minimizing exposure.” pandemic. For example, Ohio’s parks and Bourgerie said. Christine Wang, founder of the recreational facilities just opened at the Because camping provides more blog TheSkiGirl, said that since the ski end of May, while California’s state and opportunities for social distancing than, industry essentially shut down for the local parks are still closed, although it has say, a vacation to a resort or a major city, season, her team has been exploring allowed RV parks to continue to operate, it’s become enticing even for those who other travel avenues to write about and said David Strait, an advertising services wouldn’t typically take a camping vacation. to explore. “Camping has become a big vendor in the outdoor hospitality industry. Amie White and her family were focus,” Wang said. Campers are flocking to any place supposed to drive from Illinois to St. Paul, Still, camping today isn’t going to feel available. Bookings for RV rentals have Minn., to visit friends for Memorial Day. like it did before the pandemic. There doubled week over week since April 20, That was pre-covid. Instead, they snagged will be fewer people to allow for social shortly after states began to announce campsites halfway between the homes in distancing, some activities will be closed reopening plans, said Maddi Bourgerie, Wisconsin. “We won’t share food like we (many pools are shuttered for now), spokeswoman for RVshare, an RV rental usually do, and we’ll try to maintain social and cleaning and waiting will be more marketplace similar to Airbnb. Arizona distance around the fire pit for the kids to common. Each campground is creating and Oklahoma bookings have more than roast s’mores together,” White said before its own coronavirus distancing rules. For

example, the Alvarado Campground in Colorado is setting limits of two tents and two vehicles per campsite, with gatherings that don’t exceed eight people. Yogi Bear’s Jellystone Park Camp- Resorts — locally operated independent franchises throughout the country — are following federal, state and local directives. To that end, guests can expect enhanced cleaning procedures, increased use of disinfectants when the cabins are serviced, and cleaning of golf carts and bicycles between rentals. Some Jellystone pools and splash grounds may not be open, depending on the local social distancing guidelines. Georgianne Austin, spokeswoman for Escapees RV Club, whose eight RV parks across Southern and Midwestern states have remained open through the pandemic, said the company has implemented many A trail in Joshua Tree is marked with social distancing signs. MARIO TAMA/GETTY IMAGES changes. All gathering spaces are closed, including pools, clubhouses and activity monitoring the cleanliness of the bathroom. that she intends to avoid campgrounds even centers, Austin said. The park offices are Campgrounds that cater to a single family when Idaho reopens them. conducting business electronically and are or group at a time may be safer right now, No matter how many adjustments closed to walk-ins. Shared facilities, such said Tyler Weathers, an instructor at Trail campers make, however, the safest option is as bathrooms, shower rooms and laundry Blazer Survival School in South Carolina to stay home, said Diane Vukovic, founder facilities, are open but are cleaned multiple and co-owner of a few campgrounds. He of the website Mom Goes Camping. times daily. suggested looking for campgrounds where “Campgrounds are typically located Such precautions are a start, but they you can book electronically and rent the in remote areas which do not always don’t remove all the hazards of covid-19, entire campground. If that’s not an option, have access to hospitals,” Vukovic according to Leann Poston, a pediatrician, ask whether you can stay in a campsite said. “These gateway communities could assistant dean at Wright State University that’s farther away from the main camping end up with covid-19 outbreaks because of Boonshoft School of Medicine and a area of the park, he said. travelers who used their facilities along the contributor to Invigor Medical. Camping Sticking to remote areas of dispersed way, such as when buying gas or stopping safely, she said, depends on how you camp. sites (public lands outside designated in a store to buy some snacks.” “If you are a camper with your own campgrounds) is just one of the strategies Because not all campgrounds are restroom and there is enough space in the employed by Marissa Lovell of Boise, arranged in a way that allows campers to be campground for you to socially distance, Idaho, who went camping with her partner distant from one another, Vukovic suggests then I think it is probably safe,” she said. in the height of the pandemic and has other looking for smaller campgrounds, which “If you are tent camping and need to use camping trips planned nearly every weekend are more likely to have a good distance the campground restrooms, then you are at in the near future. She and her partner bring between pitches. While these may not a higher risk.” their own water and gas so they can bypass have as many amenities as the larger spots, Because it’s unclear whether the novel all small towns during the drive. They sleep they will be better for a socially distanced coronavirus can be spread via feces or in their truck or their tent and bring their vacation, she said. aerosolized particles generated when food and cooking supplies. “Even better, consider going wild or toilets are flushed, it’s important to avoid “I have noticed that some areas are busier dispersed camping,” she said, noting that public restrooms and minimize contact than they normally are, but it seems to be it offers another major attraction: It’s free. with potentially infected surfaces, Poston mostly day use with hiking and biking,” Or, try your own backyard.■ said. If you must use a public restroom Lovell said. “People have been good about while camping, Poston suggested avoiding keeping distance on the trail, from my Braff is a writer based in Chicago. Find her on touching any surfaces and door handles and experience, and everyone seems very happy Twitter: @daniellebraff. asking in advance how the campground is to have open spaces to escape to.” She said

KIDSPOST Jaguar release is a step to saving the species in Argentina

RAFAEL ABUIN

Then the land they needed to roam and to hunt on was cleared for cattle ranching. This threw the balance of the ecosystem out of whack.

COURTESY OF THOMPKINS CONSERVATION “In the absence of this species, The release of captive-bred Mariua and her cubs to the wild, above, was the first reintroduction of ecosystems stop working well and may jaguars in northeastern Argentina since the species almost went extinct in that part of the country even collapse,” Di Martino says. “The 70 years ago. main prey of jaguar is the capybara and the caiman. They are very abundant due things around for this important apex to the absence of the jaguar, which causes by Lela Nargi predator, meaning one that is on top of the imbalances in the ecosystem.” food chain. Only 200 to 300 jaguars remain The park was the first step in getting • Originally Published March 3, 2021 in the country. They have been declared jaguars reestablished. Then they needed “natural monuments.” to be bred. A female named Mariua was any of us were stuck at “That is the highest category of mated with a male jaguar from Brazil. home in January because of protection that can be given in Argentina,” It sounds simple, but the reality is more the coronavirus pandemic. says Sebastián Di Martino. He’s the complicated. Di Martino said that bred But a special mom and her conservation director for Rewilding jaguars have to learn how to hunt and must Mtwo babies took a trip. They were driven Argentina, which is one of the organizations stay unaccustomed to humans. Otherwise a few miles from a breeding center in helping to reestablish jaguar populations. they will not have success in the wild. northeastern Argentina to a 1.7-million- The jaguars’ journey started in At the breeding center, “we provide acre nature preserve called Gran Iberá 2018, though. That’s when the park was live prey to them in captivity without their Park. There the three jaguars were released established in the Iberá Wetlands. Several- realizing that it is people” who are doing into the wild. thousand jaguars once roamed there, along it. In addition, “all the monitoring of the Their release was the first reintroduction with other important species such as giant animals is through video surveillance of jaguars in that part of Argentina since river otters, peccaries (piglike hoofed cameras that are managed from several the species almost went extinct there 70 mammals) and macaws. But the jaguars’ miles away.” years ago. Scientists hope they can turn pelts were valuable, so people hunted them. Mariua wears a radio collar so researchers

KARINA SPORRING can track her and her babies, Karai and Porã. is trickier. People in the surrounding Jaguars shown above are part of a captive- So far, so good. She’s been hunting capybaras communities have to be persuaded that breeding program in Argentina. and wild pigs and is “raising her cubs very having jaguars around is a good thing. So well,” Di Martino says. Di Martino and others are working to create The father will be released at a later jobs around ecotourism. They hope travelers time. So will six more jaguars. In all, Di will come to Argentina just to see the Martino says his organization hopes to wildlife in Gran Iberá Park. Soon that will release 10 to 15 jaguars. mean not just jaguars but giant anteaters, “That’s enough for the population to pampas deer and muitu birds, too. be established and their numbers to be Now there’s something to look forward increased,” he says. to, after the pandemic, when we can travel The last part of the rewilding equation freely again. ■

Questions for Discussion

1. Define these terms found in the article: a) apex predator, b) ecosystem, c) ecotourism, d) extinct, e) natural monument, f) nature preserve.

2. Why is it important to have a balance of the ecosystem?

3. Name two ways jaguars are prepared to live in the wild.

4. Marina wears a radio collar. What has it revealed to researchers?

5. What are the benefits of developing ecotourism in Gran Iberá Park?

TRAVEL Halt in ecotourism threatens conservation efforts worldwide

by Hugh Biggar • Originally Published June 11, 2020 In northern Cambodia, giant ibis, white- winged ducks and other rare species have helped ecotourism take flight in recent years. Just two decades after their near extinction, the population of giant ibis has grown to about 300 birds, bringing in thousands of visitors to remote areas of the country. This tourism has provided an important economic catalyst, generating critical revenue for rural communities and conservation initiatives. But now, in Cambodia and other wild places around the world, ecotourism is in the crosshairs of a new threat — covid-19, the disease caused by the novel coronavirus. The consequences for both wildlife and LUIS TATO FOR THE WASHINGTON POST people are still unfolding and expected to Jimmy Lemara, who manages the Porini Mara Camp in Kenya, uses his phone to record a lion. be far-reaching. Lemara live-streams his solo safaris, often doing so at times geared for American viewers. “A major source of income for rural communities has suddenly been cut off,” Added Midori Paxton, head of guides, drivers, cooks, animal caregivers said Jeremy Radachowsky, director of ecosystems and biodiversity at the United and others have been let go. The U.N. World the Mesoamerica and Western Caribbean Nations Development Program, “Intact Tourism Organization estimates a decline of Program for the Wildlife Conservation nature gives us air, water and food and international tourism of 60 to 80 percent by Society. “It’s going to have an especially serves as a ‘natural vaccine’ to reduce the the end of the year compared with 2019, with large impact on budgets for protected areas frequency and intensity of future outbreaks.” trillions of dollars and millions of jobs lost. and wildlife, which also happen to be some Since the outbreak of the coronavirus, “The biggest concern in the short term of the most important investments we can investments in nature are in jeopardy as is continued investment in ecotourism and make to avoid future pandemics.” resources are diverted and tourism dollars rural areas to make up for lost revenue Why? Because, he said, “degradation of supporting conservation dwindle. Most streams and jobs,” said Johan Robinson of natural ecosystems and wildlife trafficking world travel destinations have experienced the U.N. Environment Program (UNEP), facilitate the spillover and spread of shutdowns as borders have been shut, visas noting that the global cutbacks due to zoonotic diseases.” restricted and quarantines enforced to limit covid-19 could last a year or more. Or as the World Economic the spread of the virus. National parks, The collapsed tourism economy adds Forum website puts it: “It is no coincidence game preserves and wildlife sanctuaries in new stressors on top of ongoing challenges that the destruction of ecosystems has Africa, Asia and beyond have closed. The from vanishing habitats to climate change coincided with a sharp increase” in closures have led to reduced protection to human encroachment. Already, the infectious diseases. for wildlife and lost incomes as rangers, International Union for the Conservation of

are scrambling to respond to the crisis and reduce incentives to hunt, poach and illegally clear land for farming, timber or other resources. Wide-scale socioeconomic stress related to covid-19 has added to the pressure, with the World Food Program estimating millions of people worldwide are now living close to starvation and resorting to whatever options are available to survive. “If the supply of money from tourism dries up, rangers might be laid off, leave the bush and look for other ways to feed their families,” said Chris Thouless, director of research for Save the Elephants. “If someone sees an elephant, for instance, they might shoot it as an investment even if they cannot immediately get money for the tusks, and hunting for bush meat may increase.” Across Africa, with many countries

ISTOCK dependent on a wildlife tourism industry A visitor zip-lines above the tree canopy in Costa Rica’s Monteverde National Park; the country is that brings in billions of dollars, the outlook among those where ecotourism initiatives have been adversely impacted by the pandemic. is equally grim. “The situation is pretty bad,” UNEP’s Robinson said. “Most of the Nature (IUCN) and the U.N. Development parks have been closed, and there are no Program have reported an increase in natural- tourists and no safaris. It’s a huge loss of resources exploitation and illegal killings of income, and a lot of lodges don’t know if wild animals and threatened species. they are going to make it.” In Costa Rica, a new ecotourism Similarly across Central and South initiative to help conserve the once- America, conservationists are seeing common white-lipped peccary — similar increases in deforestation, poaching and to a wild boar — has seen few visitors. sudden disruptions to long-established Meanwhile, the white-lipped peccaries are businesses and ways of life. In Ecuador, the increasingly endangered due to hunting wildlife-rich Galápagos Islands have had of the large animals and deforestation. In few visitors this spring, and the tourist-based Namibia, a cheetah conservation center economy has seen thousands of jobs lost. can no longer rely on tourist visits to help In response, organizations are ramping fund operations. In Gabon in March, the up support. The Lion’s Share nonprofit, government closed its great-ape parks for example, is awarding small grants to to tourists due to covid-19, as have other ecotourism-dependent communities in

African countries. The closures have ROBERT ULPH/ADOBE STOCK developing countries. Other groups are drained funds from efforts to protect Giant Ibis in Cambodian marsh tapping reserves and emergency funds to critically endangered gorillas and other keep employees on the payroll and ensure great apes. In Sumatra, ecolodges can’t crossbars, and other wildlife. Their visits staff and partners in the field have food, provide their usual support to a sanctuary have generated thousands of dollars water and other supplies. for nearly extinct Sumatran rhinos and a for community funds and conservation Continued international cooperation and nearby elephant hospital. programs, according to the Wildlife global support for conservation is also seen In the wading pools, swamps, marshes Conservation Society. But now the local as vital, including such programs as the U.S. and rainforests of northern Cambodia, economy is in limbo, and this spring the Fish and Wildlife Service’s Rhinoceros and tourists used to visit in hopes of catching group reported that several giant ibis were Tiger Conservation Fund, as government sight of the critically endangered giant killed for their meat, as were white-winged priorities are diverted by the crisis. ibis, characterized by their height and ducks, painted storks and other wild animals. “Funding from governments and silver-tipped wings notched with black International agencies and organizations existing private sector is not going to

A family of elephants roams the Ol Kinyei Conservancy in Kenya. LUIS TATO FOR THE WASHINGTON POST be enough,” Robinson said. “Estimates Sandwith, director of IUCN’s Global life that helps bring in tourists. already indicated that more than double the Protected Areas Program. “This reliance And as travel slowly resumes as pre-covid government and philanthropic has exposed these areas to a funding crunch quarantines and lockdowns are lifted, investments were needed for effective that coincides with the pandemic and is ecotourism will also find its place again in global conservation.” caused by it. It has the very serious knock- the post-pandemic world. Experts also say this is a good on effect of affecting the livelihoods of “Travel is important for all sorts of reasons, opportunity to revisit some of the local communities and increasing pressure and ecotourism is essential to this,” said Joe deleterious effects of tourism and on protected areas.” Walston, executive vice president for global consider new approaches. For ecotourism, In response, alternatives to ecotourism conservation at the Wildlife Conservation drawbacks can include overcrowding of are gaining popularity while sharing the Society. “Hopefully, people will also fragile ecosystems, overdevelopment of goal of protecting nature and supporting recognize all of these environmental issues tourist amenities and pollution. Long flights local economies. Among these are are related to each other and will take fewer to far-flung destinations also emit tons of conservation trust funds, debt-for-nature trips but spend more time in the places they carbon linked to global warming. To offset swaps, biodiversity offsets, tax incentives visit. In the short-term, we must do what we some of these impacts, some organizations and green and blue bonds — debt can to see rural communities and wildlife are considering investing more in economic instruments to raise capital for ecological through.” ■ alternatives to ecotourism. purposes. In one example, two years ago “Governments that have defaulted the Seychelles, a scenic vacation spot in Biggar is a writer based in Washington. on properly financing protected areas the Indian Ocean, diversified its tourism- Find him on Instagram: @hughbiggar. too easily rely solely on tourism revenue dependent economy by raising $15 million to make up the difference,” said Trevor through a blue bond to protect the marine

TRAVEL Partnering to help travelers go greener

by Bailey Berg • Originally Published March 7, 2021 The past year has changed people’s priorities in many aspects of their lives, but one of the biggest pendulum swings could involve travel. Previously, many found their itineraries at the intersection of affordability and bragging rights. But after the events of 2020, a growing number of wanderers are instead seeking opportunities that help them be better stewards of the Earth. “I think the pandemic has given people time to consider travel and sustainability and how they want to do things differently going forward,” said Louree Maya, founder of Kynder, a website that aggregates eco- friendly and ethical hotels and eateries in Europe and the United States. Maya’s impression isn’t just anecdotal. Booking.com recently released the findings of a global research report in G ADVENTURES INC. G Adventures predicts more interest in outdoor-focused trips. which analysts asked travelers if and how they planned to travel differently when borders reopen. The report found that 53 percent of global travelers wanted “to travel planet and for tourism,” said Susanne Etti, the pandemic may be that it has helped unite more sustainably in the future as Coronavirus environmental impact specialist for Intrepid, some travel companies to do more against has opened their eyes to humans’ impact an adventure travel company. what they said may be their next foe. on the environment.” Another 69 percent “Tourism has a front-row seat for the Etti published an open-source guide to of respondents said they expect the travel effects of climate change,” Etti said, adding decarbonizing travel businesses in April, industry to offer more sustainable travel that some seasonal and outdoor tourism which has since been downloaded by more options. opportunities, like skiing or exploring than 180 businesses. She has also conducted Recognizing that a focus on reefs, have been diminished by the planet more than 50 free consultations aimed at sustainability is expected by a growing warming. helping her peers take the first steps. number of customers, many companies have While many within the industry had “It’s important to understand your impact used their relative downtime to take stock previously implemented environmentally on the environment,” Etti said. “When you of their environmental footprint and make friendly programs, with varying levels know your impact, you can start reducing.” road maps for a greener future. of ambition, tourism still contributes to The Future of Tourism coalition, “The important thing, even with covid 8 percent of the global greenhouse gas founded by six nonprofit organizations at the front of our minds, is remembering emissions and is expected to grow at an including Center for Responsible that climate change is a bigger risk for the annual rate of 4 percent. One silver lining of Travel and Destination Stewardship Center,

specifically at citizens of those countries. While the excursions were in response to border closures, the company plans to continue offering the tours post-pandemic, as organizers said it helps locals build deeper connections to their own country and causes less environmental harm than jet-setting across the world would. Pre-pandemic, “overtourism” was a buzzword associated with destinations such as Venice and Bali, that saw so many yearly visitors that it became harmful to the environment and made life more challenging for locals. One way tour companies, like G Adventures and Intrepid, are looking to decrease the stress put on those places is simply opting to travel in the offseason. While what is “good” travel is fairly Intrepid Travel, which leads tours in Nepal and other places, has committed INTREPID TRAVEL subjective, both Etti and Sweeting said it’s to a plan to reduce carbon emissions. important for tourism groups to work with companies that have the same mission. is one example of travel entities collaborating Going forward, Jamie Sweeting, By prioritizing giving their business to to “build back better.” The coalition has vice president of social enterprise and local hotels and restaurants that practice called for tourism stakeholders to commit responsible travel at tour provider G recycling, use solar panels and reduce to its list of 13 guiding principles, ranging Adventures, predicts that there will be waste, it makes it more attractive for others from “Choose quality over quantity” to more interest in trips that focus on time to get on board. The same goes for travelers. “Use sustainability standards.” Twenty-two in the outdoors and going to less-visited “In the travel industry right now, your groups have signed on, including: multiple places, moves that make sustainable dollar means way more than it did before tourism boards for countries including practices easier and help lessen the burden covid,” Sweeting said. “You have a lot of Jordan, Colombia and Palau; hotel chains of overtourism. power as a consumer. If you reward the such as Hilton; and tour groups such as “We’ve seen a big trend toward more companies that are addressing climate Intrepid and Lindblad Expeditions. meaningful travel experiences,” Sweeting change and work with local communities, Another joint effort that launched in said. “I think more travelers want to the marketplace will change.” 2020 is Tourism Declares, an initiative discover a place, rather than just check it While Sweeting acknowledged that not aimed at helping those in the travel sphere off. People want more out of their trip, like all travelers or companies are going to to develop plans to reduce carbon emissions knowing it’s having a beneficial impact on consider the environmental impact of their as they recover from the pandemic. More them and on the place they’re visiting. ” travels, he was optimistic that this may be than 200 companies, ranging from travel Some of those places could very well the impetus for an evolution within his agents to tour operators, have committed to be within travelers’ own backyards. G industry ■ publishing a climate action plan within 12 Adventures launched trips within the months of joining. United States and Australia last year aimed

A country’s leadership and environmentalists do not always agree on what is best for the country’s natural resources and its economic well-being. Enter ecotourism into the picture for an even more multifaceted definition and nature of development.

Brazil, rich with the rainforests of the Amazon and beaches, with fish and yet- to-be-discovered medicinal plants, with indigenous people and pink dolphins and pristine lands, provides several examples of this battle for revenue, conservation and a form of development that will provide for TERRENCE MCCOY/THE WASHINGTON POST The sun sets over the Tapajós River, whose translucent waters have become an the people who live there and preserve the international destination for tourists seeking to experience the Amazon rainforest. flora and fauna.

Alter Do Chao, Brazil, provides one example of a village that opened its rainforest and beaches to ecotourism. Alter Do Chao became known as the “Amazon Caribbean” and became a popular destination. The new Brazilian President Jair Bolsonaro pledged to support development of the Amazon. Without government support to limit visitors and no control of land grabbers who occupied land, burned forest areas and built houses and fields, dozens of projects were built within protected areas.

TERRENCE MCCOY/THE WASHINGTON POST Read more about how a local reporter, Alter do Chao, which sits along the Tapajós River, attracts tourists and residents and volunteer firemen, President environmentalists from throughout the world. Bolsonaro, the World Wildlife Fund, and Leonardo DiCaprio got entangled into a web of allegations, misinformation and fire. Read The Post’s “ They say they’re firefighters. Police say they’re arsonists. The battle for truth reaches the Amazon.”

In his article Terrence McCoy prepares readers for the different perspectives: The information wars, the battle of competing narratives that is increasingly shaping global affairs and corroding a common consensus on truth, have reached the Amazon rainforest. As deforestation rises under President Jair Bolsonaro, the forces of development and the protectors of the rainforest are fighting by claim and counterclaim, anecdote and hashtag, over the future of the Amazon. “Everything is being interpreted in the worst way, as deliberate and malicious,” said Daniel Nepstad, an environmental scientist who studies the Amazon. “The tendency is to demonize.” Does the right-wing Bolsonaro want to develop the Amazon — or destroy it? Will he enrich indigenous communities — or hasten their demise? Are international environmentalists safeguarding Brazil — or holding it back? The following THE AMERICAS article reports on another area of Brazil in which This Brazilian island wants to Bolsonaro’s position on development and economic growth show the way to a green future. conflicts with ecotourism’s standards Businesses, backed by Bolsonaro, and aspirations. It is divided into four parts. Each section is see the next Cozumel. followed by questions and points for you to a growing landscape of bars, restaurants and consider. by Marina Lopes hotels. “This could be a Maldives, a Cozumel,” he says. • Originally Published September19, 2019 “Here, we can have only 100,000 tourists. There, FERNANDO DE NORONHA, Brazil — When they receive 90 million.” Guilherme Rocha surveys the golden sand Those competing visions have made Noronha beaches, turquoise waters and dramatic cliffs an unlikely battleground in the larger debate over of this speck of an island in the South Atlantic, growth across the Western Hemisphere’s second- he sees a model of sustainable development largest nation. Will Brazil exploit its abundant for Brazil — and the world. A place where the natural resources to lift itself out of economic number of visitors is limited, where the money stagnation? Or will it use those resources to show they bring is used to promote electric cars, solar humankind the way to a green future? farms and mandatory recycling, where the tourist For a time here, the environmentalists appeared activities include lectures on climate change and to be winning. Since the beginning of the year, ways to reduce carbon emissions. this island of 3,000 residents and almost as many “The world is turning a page,” says Rocha, the dolphins has banned disposable plastic, imposed island’s administrator. “The era of dirty energy mandatory recycling and launched a program to is over.” neutralize carbon emissions by 2030. Luiz Falcão considers the same tropical Tourism here has nearly doubled since 2012, paradise and sees untapped potential — for more but the number of visitors remains capped by law. business. The owner of the Dolphin Hotel dreams Foreigners are charged more than $50 to use the of creating a world-class port to welcome cruise beaches, and environmental regulations, strictly ships packed with passengers coming to patronize enforced, have restrained development.

WRITER’S CONTENT AND TECHNIQUE 1. What details make the reader believe that Fernando de Noronha is a “tropical paradise”? 2. What legal actions have been taken to support ecotourism? 3. Marina Lopes uses the rhetorical technique of comparison and contrast to open the article. Summarize the comparison. Itemize the contrasts. 4. As a reader what do you expect to learn in the next section?

Bolsonaro calls Noronha ‘an example of how not to do tourism’ summer on Facebook. He called them “robbery” But now local business leaders have a powerful and said they explain why “there is almost no new ally in Brasilia. tourism in Brazil.” President Jair Bolsonaro, a climate change “Brazil is the No. 1 country in the world in skeptic who won office last year on promises to cut natural beauty, but one of the last in tourism environmental red tape and promote development, revenue,” he tweeted. “Fernando de Noronha is an posted his displeasure with the beach fees this example of how not to do tourism.” His take on Noronha mirrors his administration’s approach to the environment more broadly: Ease regulations, promote business, shout down critics. When the head of the government’s space research agency reported a jump in deforestation in the Amazon this year, the president denounced the data as “lies” and fired him. He has dismissed international criticism over deforestation as an assault on Brazil’s sovereignty; as fires spiked across the Amazon last month, he initially rejected an aid package offered by the Group of Seven and told foreign leaders to mind their own business. Bolsonaro’s rhetoric has isolated him on the world stage. But here in Noronha, it’s struck a chord. Fabiana da Silva, 31, remembers when living on the island meant wading through muddy streets and waiting weeks for food to be shipped from the mainland. Growing SOURCE: GOOGLEEARTH THE WASHINGTON POST tourism has changed life here, creating jobs, funding improvements, strengthening the economy. Endangered species, and the world’s Environmental regulations, she says, most beautiful beach mean she has to ask the government for What happens in Noronha can reverberate behave during their stay — “Please don’t everything. throughout Brazil. After officials here poke the sharks with your selfie sticks” — “We are humiliated,” says da Silva, who introduced the ban on plastic, they say, he tries to instill a sense of environmental works at a shop that sells clothing and they received calls from local officials responsibility he hopes they’ll take with jewelry. “We have to ask to build a toilet. If around the country hoping to do the same. them when they leave. “We have to you want to build a house, you have to beg.” Paulo Câmara, the socialist governor of the remember Planet Earth is our home,” he state that administers the island, says he told one group. “Who takes care of it? WRITER’S CONTENT uses it as a laboratory to test ideas before We do!” AND TECHNIQUE implementing them more broadly. Noronha, just a 70-minute flight from WRITER’S CONTENT 5. What and where is Brasilia? Recife on the Brazilian mainland, has AND TECHNIQUE much to attract visitors. UNESCO has 6. In his Facebook post and quoted declared the island a World Heritage 10. It what ways is it possible for an tweet, what attitude toward Site, citing its “indescribable beauty,” its island to impact one of the largest business and tourism does biodiversity and its endangered species, countries in the world? President Bolsonaro express? including green sea and loggerhead turtles. TripAdvisor has named Baia do Sancho 11. Citing reliable and respected 7. Explain an example of Bolsonaro’s the world’s most beautiful beach. Spinner sources is a technique writers use rhetoric and how it might need to dolphins greet tourists in the morning; to convey opinion while remaining international isolation. lemon sharks dive around them during the objective in reporting. Give an day, stingrays gather at their feet at dusk. example of this technique used in 8. Who does Fabiana da Silva The island received 103,000 visitors last this section. represent? year. They generated nearly $9 million in taxes. 12. One way readers know that 9. As a reader what perspective do Marco Aurelio da Silva, a ranger Lopes was an eyewitness is the you expect to learn in the next at Fernando de Noronha Marine National dateline. What else indicates section — especially if the writer Park, delivers lectures to visitors each that she was an eyewitness to continues to use the comparison week. Between instructions on how to ecotourism in action? and contrast structure? Everyone has an opinion to assess whether some of the tourist “He is an affront to the interests of big Tourists have brought opportunities, fees should be waived. Salles met with business. That’s why this is happening.” but also challenges: Growing crowds are business leaders, lifted a ban on sardine The meeting descended into chaos. straining the primitive sewage system, fishing, and replaced the head of the Business leaders shouted over activists. taxing the limited water supply and island environmental agency with a native The future of the island was at stake, and wearing out unpaved roads. who the business community hopes will everyone had an opinion. The solution? Business leaders say it’s ease restrictions. more development — building the new In Noronha, where environmentalists WRITER’S CONTENT port, expanding the desalination plant, have enjoyed an outsized influence, AND TECHNIQUE reinforcing the infrastructure. activists fear that Bolsonaro could threaten Falcão, the hotelier, considers himself projects decades in the planning. Local 13. Contrasting points of view the founder of tourism in Noronha. He officials worry that speaking out could continue in the final section of began chartering flights for 100 travelers make them the president’s next target. the article. Who do you think has a week in 1981, when only fishermen, They didn’t have to wait long to see their the strongest argument? Support soldiers and biologists had reason to fears realized, with the reassignment of a your response. venture here. local environmental official. José Martins His 40-room hotel, between the airport is an oceanographer who worked on 14. People may be used to exemplify and the beach, is one of the island’s most Noronha for three decades. A public critic government policies. Summarize popular. But expanding the business has of the spike in tourism, he was ordered to what happened to José Martins. proved all but impossible. His hope of leave Noronha after Salles’s visit. What does he illustrate? building a second hotel has stalled over The Ministry of the Environment denied environmental permits. repeated interview requests and would not 15. This article was written in 2019. He blames the environmentalists. allow Martins to speak to reporters. At a In 2020 the pandemic closed “They say no, just to say no,” he said. town hall meeting in August, however, all tourist destinations across “But it’s the people’s heritage. Noronha eyes were on him. He silently teared up as the globe. First, write a short should compete with the world.” lifelong friends called on the government statement about what you think Bolsonaro, he hopes, will rein in local to reconsider. happened in 2020 on the island officials and clear the way for more “He has not committed a crime,” of Fernando de Noronha. Next business-friendly decisions. said Domício Alves, one of Noronha’s do some research to locate an The president is already making most senior political leaders, drawing a update on any development plans changes. After his Twitter tirade, he sent standing ovation. “If you disagree with or ecotourism activities on the Environment Minister Ricardo Salles here him, let’s discuss it, but don’t do this. island.