Puppy Raising Manual Produced by the Puppy Raising Department of Guide Dogs for the Blind Exclusively for Puppy Raising Volunteers

Puppy Raising Manual Produced by the Puppy Raising Department of Guide Dogs for the Blind exclusively for puppy raising volunteers

The information in this manual may not be reproduced without written permission from the Puppy Raising Department of Guide Dogs for the Blind. This manual is the property of Guide Dogs for the Blind.

DEDICATION

We dedicate this manual to the remarkable individuals and families who open their homes and give their hearts, their time, and their dedication to the puppies in their care. Due to your generosity, students at GDB are given an amazing gift: a partner who allows them enhanced mobility and access, as well as a loyal and loving companion. We greatly appreciate your being our ambassadors with the public and for spreading the Guide Dog message every day. Thank you also to those of you who work with us performing many other tasks such as public speaking, outreach to students, and fundraising. It would be impossible to complete our mission without you, and on behalf of all those we serve, you have our eternal gratitude.

With deepest appreciation,

Nancy E. S. Gardner President & Chief Executive Officer

11/2007 FORWARD

Your puppy raising mission includes nurturing and socializing a puppy to become a guide, a prized member of our breeding stock or a beloved pet. Our organizational mission is dependent upon the informed, positive information that you supply your community about dog care, our puppy raising program and our graduate services. Thank you for your many contributions.

Each puppy is different and has his very own personality and charm. Your daily effort and love combined with the support and training of our expert staff helps to develop your puppy to his highest potential. We are here to provide information, training and support. With this manual, the training provided by your club leader, the supervision and support of your puppy raising advisor, and the assistance of the Puppy Raising staff, you will have the tools necessary to fulfill this very special community service project.

We appreciate your commitment to help us create lifelong partnerships. We are proud to have you as members of the Guide Dog Family.

Brent Ruppel Director of Community Operations TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Introduction 1-1 Mission 1-2 History The Guide Dog family What is expected of you 1-3 Our dogs The breeding program Life in the kennels Veterinary care 1-4 Raiser support and opportunities

2. Preparing for puppy raising 2-1 Support Getting Started Introducing your team Solving problems 2-2 Creating a safe, secure environment Suggested first aid kit supplies Poisons 2-3 Outdoor confinement and housing Fence requirements 2-4 Equipment (and how to use it) The crate The ex-pen The tie-down The dragline The leash and collar The headcollar The chain training collar 2-5 Your puppy’s arrival Prepare your home On the trip home At your home 2-6 What it means to raise a Guide Dog puppy 2-7 Dos and don’ts of puppy raising 2-8 Puppy raising etiquette

3. Caring for your puppy 3-1 Feeding Guidelines to promoting good eating habits and protecting health Changing your puppy’s food Tips to remember when feeding your puppy Keeping your puppy fit and healthy Body Score and Conditioning Systems

©Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual/Table of Contents 11/2008 3-2 Relieving Teach your puppy to relieve on-leash, on command 3-3 Grooming Brush your puppy every day Regular paw care is important Ear cleaning can prevent ear infections Eyes may need to be cleaned also Clean your puppy’s teeth every week Bathing your pup 3-4 Exercise and play Teach your puppy to play interactively with you (without using a toy) Controlling play with your puppy Tug game procedures Hide-and-seek game procedures 3-5 Trains, planes and automobiles Guide Dogs public access for puppies Transportation of program and career change dogs Traveling with and without your puppy Lost puppy procedures

4. Health care 4-1 Working with veterinarians Payment of veterinary expenses The physical characteristics of a dog 4-2 Emergencies 4-3 Vaccinations and deworming 4-4 Females in season 4-5 Spay/neuter and hernias 4-6 Fleas, ticks and parasites Flea and tick control Heartworm prevention

5. Training principles 5-1 Philosophy How to be an effective teacher Give effective commands Pattern desired behaviors How a dog learns 5-2 Rewards Reward and correct consistently Approved rewards 5-3 Corrections How and when to correct your puppy How to do a leash and collar correction Unacceptable corrections 5-4 Know about “no”

©Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual/Table of Contents 11/2008 6. Training techniques 6-1 Important behaviors Behaviors to report to your leader Essential behaviors Good house manners 6-2 Socialization 6-3 Commands Preparing your puppy to learn commands Training commands for raisers

7. What's next for your puppy 7-1 Saying “goodbye” 7-2 When your puppy returns to Guide Dogs 7-3 Training Pattern training Guide Dog training phases 7-4 In class 7-5 Graduation Sponsored teams In-home training procedures Graduation for breeding stock 7-6 After graduation 7-7 How Guide Dogs places the puppies you raise

8. Policies, forms and resources Puppy raising policy Basic requirements of puppy raisers Keeping puppies on-leash Puppy toy and play policies Puppy raising nutritional policy Boarding female dogs in-season Reasons for placing or retaining a puppy in the home Helpful resources for puppy raisers Fun things about my puppy form Guide Dog graduation news release Recall for training phase descriptions

©Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual/Table of Contents 11/2008 1-1 OUR MISSION

Guide Dogs for the Blind provides enhanced mobility to qualified individuals through partnership with dogs whose unique skills are developed and nurtured by dedicated volunteers and a professional staff.

Established in 1942, Guide Dogs for the Blind continues its dedication to quality student training services and extensive follow-up support for graduates. Our programs are made possible through the teamwork of staff, volunteers and generous donors. Services are provided to students from the United States and Canada at no cost to them.

It all began with a dream...the dream of creating the first guide dog training school on the West Coast. It was a dream shared by Lois Merrihew and Don Donaldson, who volunteered their efforts along with many others. They recognized the need to help wounded servicemen who would return from World War II without their sight. They believed in the potential of dogs to serve as guides for the blind.

The school was incorporated in 1942 and began training dogs and instructing students in a rented home in Los Gatos, California, south of San Jose. A German Shepherd named Blondie was one of the first dogs trained. Blondie had been rescued from a Pasadena dog pound. She was later paired with Sgt. Leonard Foulk, the first serviceman to graduate from the new school.

In 1947, the school was moved to its present 11-acre campus in San Rafael, California, 20 miles north of San Francisco. In 1995, our other campus opened in Boring, Oregon, 25 miles east of Portland on 27 acres. Guide Dogs for the Blind has graduated close to 10,000 teams over the past 60 years.

The Guide Dog family

Puppy raisers It takes a lot of people to produce a successful Guide Dog team. We'd like to start by introducing you to other members of the Guide Dog family. You are now among 1,400 raisers who donate their time and effort in the care and socialization of our puppies. Guide Dog puppy raisers are youths, adults, and youths affiliated with the 4-H program. Guide Dogs for the Blind places puppies with raisers living in eight Western states: California, Oregon, Washington, Arizona, Nevada, Idaho, Utah and Colorado.

Puppy raising leaders All puppy raisers are members of a puppy raising club. These clubs are guided by a leader; some clubs have several leaders. These dedicated volunteers hold regular club meetings to teach puppy raisers how to raise, care for and train their new puppies. Each leader has been trained by a Guide Dogs staff member. Leaders in clubs affiliated with the 4-H program have also received training and certification through their state 4-H office. All leaders are issued a Leader’s Manual, which contains guidelines and instructions specifically for club leaders.

The Puppy Raising Department Raisers and leaders also work closely with members of the Puppy Raising Department at Guide Dogs for the Blind. A Community Field Representative is assigned to your area. Each CFR’s territory includes 100 or more puppy raisers and up to 50 leaders and may encompass several states.

CFRs provide hands-on training, advice and support to leaders and raisers in their territories to improve their understanding of socialization and training standards required by Guide Dogs for the Blind. They attend many field days and club meetings.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 1: Introduction Section 1-2 11/2008 History They also evaluate puppies, either at an evaluation site, in the home, at a Guide Dog facility or in homes other than the raisers.

In addition, CFR’s are responsible for helping in the recruitment of new leaders and raisers. An important part of their job is to provide a better understanding of the puppy raising program and Guide Dogs for the Blind.

The office staff at the California campus is responsible for: • Coordinating the naming of the puppies • Assigning puppies to new raisers • Issuing puppy raising supplies • Scheduling puppy deliveries (air and ground) and local pick ups • Scheduling the recall dates for dogs returning to the Oregon or California campus to begin their formal training • Electronic communications with the puppy raising community, including “Leader Link” and “E-Bark”. • Maintaining the Puppy Raising section of our website: www.guidedogs.com/forms • Community Connection, the electronic newsletter volunteers and friends of Guide Dogs

Many department members also spend a great deal of time on the road traveling through the eight states where Guide Dog puppies are placed.

Other Guide Dog staff Other members of the Guide Dog family are also involved in your puppy’s life. The Training Department staff are the ones who will eventually shape your pup into a professional Guide Dog. Our veterinarians and their assistants help keep the dogs and pups in the best of health. The Breeding and Kennel Department staff is responsible for the whelping and early care of the pups. There are many other staff and volunteers who work diligently toward a common goal of producing the finest dogs, training and services in the country.

What is expected of you

Values: As a puppy raiser for Guide Dogs for the Blind, we ask that you accept the values we share and that these values will be reflected in your actions.

• I am kind toward people towards people and animals and demonstrate respect for their dignity and well-being. • I am inclusive and sensitive to all, regardless of disability, culture or ethnicity. • I am open to innovation and change. • I am accountable for my actions and our resources. • I value teamwork and good communications. • I help to create a supporting and trusting work environment. • I am honest and fair and act with integrity. • I balance professionalism with humor. • I continually work towards furthering the GDB mission.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 1: Introduction Section 1-2 11/2008 History Code of conduct We also ask that you follow our code of conduct as it applies to raisers. All employees, volunteers and students in training at Guide Dogs for the Blind follow this code.

Purpose Employees, volunteers and students are expected to observe certain standards of performance and conduct to ensure that Guide Dogs mission and work is carried out in a safe and orderly way and to ensure that we maintain high ethical standards throughout our organization.

Standards of conduct Our campuses and facilities are public places. Employees, volunteers and students are expected to conduct themselves as they would in any public area. Conduct which is not appropriate in public or which disrupts the safe and orderly operation of our business is considered inappropriate. Conduct that is unsafe, unethical or illegal will not be permitted. Types of conduct that could constitute grounds for immediate dismissal include: physical violence; illegal acts such as theft, use or possession of illegal drugs or weapons; sexual activity; and inhumane treatment of a dog.

The following are examples of the kinds of misconduct that will lead to disciplinary action, up to and including dismissal: • Excessive absences or tardiness • Harassment in any form • Animal abuse or neglect • Falsification of records or other documents • Possession or use of illegal drugs or controlled substances • Theft, destruction or abuse of Guide Dogs' property or the property of others • Possession of weapons, firearms, or other potentially dangerous weapons or materials on Guide Dogs property • Involvement in or encouragement of illegal activities • Acts of physical violence, or acts involving threats, intimidation or coercion • Repeated lack of cooperation or courtesy in working with others, or failure to perform reasonable duties assigned • Unauthorized access to computer files or inappropriate use of computer networks • Disclosing or misusing private, proprietary or confidential information about Guide Dogs • Unethical business practices or conflicts of interest • Undermining or subverting business decisions, unless they are reasonably believed to be illegal or unethical • Failure to adhere to other policies and procedures at Guide Dogs for the Blind.

The above list is not all-inclusive. We ask that everyone conduct themselves with reasonable and proper consideration for the welfare and rights of other employees, volunteers and students and for the best interests of this organization. Your leaders are provided with more detailed guidelines for puppy raising volunteers through the Leader Manual. Your leader is responsible for passing all appropriate information on to you. Please consult with your leader for additional information.

Guide Dog breeds Guide Dogs for the Blind uses Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, and crosses between Labs and Goldens as guides.

Selection of breeding stock The finest dogs are chosen for our breeding program. They have been carefully selected for the unique characteristics that are required to produce successful working guides. Only those dogs that have met the organization's highest physical and temperamental standards are included in the breeding program at Guide Dogs for the Blind.

Puppies are whelped from our breeding stock and cared for by professional kennel staff. Our teams of veterinarians provide the finest care for our puppies and dogs through all stages of their development.

The breeding program

The breeding program at Guide Dogs for the Blind was established in the late 1940s. Currently, the breeding colony consists of purebred Labrador Retrievers (black and yellow) and Golden Retrievers. Our Labrador Retrievers have historically enjoyed the greatest success as working guides and therefore, represent the majority of dogs we produce. Since 1994, a fourth variety has been introduced: the Labrador Retriever/Golden Retriever cross. This fourth variety has proven to be a highly successful addition to our program. The Guide Dog breeding program produces 95 percent of the puppies necessary to support both of our training facilities.

In recent years, Guide Dogs has worked closely and cooperatively with other dog guide and service organizations in order to establish their breeding programs. Through these relationships, new blood lines have been introduced into our breeding colony. These new lines have allowed Guide Dogs to improve the qualities in our dogs required to produce successful working guides.

The selection of our breeding stock is done by our breeding manager together with input from members of our Training and Veterinary Departments. When dogs begin their formal guide work training, they undergo a complete physical examination that includes hip x-rays and eye examinations. In addition, if an individual dog is being considered as a potential breeder, the breeding manager reviews the dog and its littermates as to their health, temperament and trainability.

Once a dog is added to the breeding program, it is placed by a Guide Dog staff member into a carefully screened custodial home. Our breeding stock dogs enjoy life as pets in the custodial homes of loving families who live within a 50-mile radius of the California campus. Raisers who become breeder keepers of the dog they raised may live within 75 miles of the California campus.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 1: Introduction Section 1-3 11/2008 Our Dogs Approximately 50 new breeders are added to the breeding program annually. Of these, 75 percent are female. Brood bitches whelp and raise their litters in the kennel facilities at Guide Dogs.

Broods are retired from the breeding program prior to age 7. Stud dogs are used for breeding more frequently and are retired due to age or when their production does not meet the colony standards. Guide Dogs benefits from the services of consulting specialists in the areas of canine ophthalmology and cardiology, and skilled staff who track each dog via a comprehensive computer system from birth to retirement.

Life in the kennels

The Kennel Department is responsible for the care of all dogs that are not in training, which includes: puppies, the older puppies that have been returned from their puppy raising homes but have not yet begun training, the active and retired breeding stock, the females and their newborn puppies, and career change dogs awaiting placement. The dogs and puppies are under the supervision of our professional staff 24 hours a day. This round-the-clock care allows for the monitoring of all births as they occur, care and feeding of newborn puppies, efficient administration of medications and veterinary care, and careful observation of dogs recovering from surgery.

When a female breeding stock dog comes into season, the Kennel Department oversees her breeding with a stud dog or assists with artificial insemination. They work closely with the Breeding Department and the Veterinary Clinic to determine proper timing to ensure success.

The gestation period of the female is 63 days. She is brought to the whelping kennel five days before the official due date of her puppies. To prepare for whelping, she is put in a stall with a plastic wading pool lined with newspapers. The stall is warmed with radiant heating coils through the floor. The stall has a closed circuit camera allowing monitoring from the kennel kitchen during normal hours and from the on-campus studio apartment after hours. A sign that the time is near is when the female starts to "nest" - she will tear the newspapers into small pieces and settle into the pool. During birth, the kennel staff assists when needed. This assistance may involve resuscitating newborn puppies, clamping bleeding umbilical cords, and feeding females tired from a long whelp.

The newborn puppies are weighed daily for the first five days to ensure they are gaining weight. If there is a puppy whose growth is lagging, the pup may be bottle-fed. Nursing mother's milk is examined for discoloration and tested to ensure it contains the appropriate nutrients and is free of infections.

If a mother has more puppies than she can handle, the pups may be transferred to another mother who has whelped in the past 24-36 hours. If no such dog is available, the puppies will be bottle-fed.

The puppies spend their first three weeks in the wading pool with their mother to nurse. At 3 weeks of age, the wading pool is taken away and they are put on the floor on shredded newspaper. At this time they start eating solid food. The puppies also start

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 1: Introduction Section 1-3 11/2008 Our Dogs getting daily socialization with our volunteer Toddler Puppy Socializers. They are exposed to new people, toys of different textures, as well as new and interesting scents.

At 6 weeks of age the puppies are brought to the puppy kennel. It then takes another 10 days to 2 weeks until the mother's milk has completely dried up and she can return home to her custodial family.

While they are in puppy kennel, the pups share stalls with their littermates. Each puppy in a litter is identified by the mother's name, the shaved area on its coat, and a tattooed number in both ears. This number is the same as the one eventually placed on its collar when it leaves the kennel. All puppies in a litter have names that start with the same letter of the alphabet. The puppies are given names taken from a list provided by raisers, the keeper of the dam or other sources.

The puppy kennel is also the place where the puppies first experience the outside world. Six days per week, they are socialized and walked on campus by volunteer Puppy Socializers. From age 6 weeks until they leave for their new homes, the puppies begin learning many new skills. Each puppy is introduced to walking on a leash, going up and down stairs, as well as crate and surface exposure. Puppies also interact in a group play session to experience socialization with other pups, as well as playing on various play structures. Daily handling includes body massages and beginning exposure to mouth, tail and paw handling. Puppies are also discouraged from chewing on inappropriate objects, such as hands, clothing and leashes. When the puppies are about 8 weeks old, they are ready to be placed with their raiser families.

In the receiving kennel there is a mix of older puppies returned by their raisers for training, active and retired breeding stock and career change dogs. Reasons for their stay include: veterinary care, boarding, temperament evaluation, breeding, training, or waiting for placement.

In the kennel kitchen, the staff mixes the food for all the dogs under their care as well as for all of the dogs in training. Each dog is assigned an amount of food, and this amount is weighed out individually. As a rule, they are fed a high-quality dry food that has been softened with warm water. The exceptions are those with increased nutritional needs, such as females who are about to whelp or are nursing.

Veterinary care

The Veterinary Clinics at Guide Dogs' two campuses would be the envy of most veterinarians in private practice with their hydraulic lift examining tables, scales and modern surgery rooms. Everything is kept immaculately clean. It is obvious to visitors that Guide Dogs places great stock in the care of its puppies and dogs.

Full-time veterinarians and a staff of technicians are supported by outside specialists whenever needed, as well as volunteers. Veterinarians assist in whelpings by performing caesarian sections if needed. When puppies are 3 weeks old, they are dewormed and given nasal drops to protect them from developing kennel cough. At 5-6 weeks, they begin receiving a series of vaccinations for parvo and other diseases. Their ears are tattooed with an identification number they will carry throughout their lives. In the rare

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 1: Introduction Section 1-3 2/2003 Our Dogs event that one of our dogs becomes lost or stolen, the tattoo will alert any veterinarian or rescue organization to the fact that the dog is from Guide Dogs. At 8 weeks, the pups are ready to be placed with raisers and will continue receiving vaccinations and care from veterinarians in their local areas.

When the pups return to the campus for formal training at 12-18 months, their hips and joints are x-rayed, their eyes and hearts checked, and they are given complete physical exams including vaccinations and heartworm tests. Our veterinarians spay or neuter those pups that haven't already had the procedure and are not being considered for breeding.

Prior to being assigned to their blind partners, the young dogs are given a pre-class physical. During class, veterinarians will meet with the students and provide medical histories on their individual dogs as well as vaccination updates.

Breeding stock, dogs in training and foster care and some working guides are cared for by our clinic staff. Staff also provide consultations with graduates and outside veterinarians in the care of our puppies and guides.

Veterinary staff is on-call when emergency care is needed. They do a variety of procedures including teeth cleaning and extractions. Using endoscopic cameras inside the dog's body they can retrieve foreign objects, remove tumors or foxtails, and help remedy chronic conditions such as coughing, sneezing, vomiting or diarrhea. Ultrasound equipment is used to monitor the status of in-utero puppies, or to check a dog's heart and other organs. EKGs and surgical procedures are part of the arsenal used by our veterinarians to combat any number of conditions or diseases.

How puppies are chosen for placement with raisers: Members of the Puppy Raising Department generally place Guide Dog puppies on a first- come, first-serve basis. Placement by special request from raisers is discouraged because doing so may leave puppies of "less desired" colors, breeds or sexes unplaced during critical developmental stages. Puppies of a certain breed or sex may occasionally be placed with a specific raiser (due to the raiser's experience, etc.) at the leader's or CFR's recommendation.

Scholarships for youth raisers Guide Dogs for the Blind has funded scholarships for our youth puppy raisers for many years. We are pleased to offer this opportunity: • to provide an incentive for further education • to encourage the development of skills that will contribute to a more productive life • to provide recognition of commendable work and accomplishment in Guide Dog puppy raising Guide Dogs recognizes that the growth and success of its mission has been made possible by the dedication and gracious donation of time, energy and heart of the youth in the western states. Our scholarship application packets are distributed through puppy raising club leaders annually in January. Applicants must be a senior in high school, a previous (or current) puppy raiser for Guide Dogs for the Blind, and be pursuing an education in any field of study at an accredited college, university, technical or trade school. The Selection Committee meets to review finalists and awards are announced by July 1st.

Internships Another special opportunity for youth is our internship program. Each summer, youth contribute both to the Guide Dogs program and to their own personal, educational, and career development by interning at the California campus. An internship generally runs for two weeks. Interns are assigned to a specific department, which could be the Puppy Raising, Dog Placement, Veterinary Clinic, Public Information or any department at Guide Dogs. Guide Dogs attempts to assign interns from outside the area to live in the homes of staff members or other volunteers during their internships. For more information on internships at our California campus, please contact the Volunteer Department at (800) 295-4050.

Career opportunities Many of our raisers have gone on to become employees at Guide Dogs for the Blind. We encourage all of our puppy raising volunteers to consider a meaningful career in the Training Department or other departments at Guide Dogs. If you like dogs, enjoy working with people, and want a career that makes a difference, the Training Department could be the place for you (or someone you know)! Work with a team of professional instructors who help provide enhanced mobility to qualified individuals through a partnership with trained dogs.

Applicants must have at least a high school diploma. Additional educations in fields such as life sciences, psychology, sociology, education, animal behavior, or veterinary technician program are highly desirable. Hands-on experience with dogs is often extremely valuable, but applicants without direct dog training experiences will also be considered. Experience in animal related work that is deemed helpful includes military or law enforcement K-9 handling, kennel or humane society work, horse training and/or professional riding, zoo animal or marine mammal work, dog training and veterinary or grooming facility work, and puppy raising. (Applications for the apprentice instructor and licensed instructor positions will also be accepted, but please note that these positions require extensive dog handling experience.)

Instructor Assistants - Instructor assistants work to promote good canine behavior and enrich the kennel experiences for our dogs. They help to ease the dogs’ transitions from their puppy raising homes to life in our kennels during their formal guidework training. This entry-level program can lead toward a career as a professional guide dog instructor. Qualified IAs may be accepted to our three-year apprenticeship course.

Apprentice Instructors - Apprentice instructors receive in-depth education about disorders affecting sight and adaptive mobility techniques. They also get hands-on Guide Dog training experience, as well as opportunities to work directly with our students who are blind or visually impaired. At the completion of the apprenticeship course and testing by the California State Guide Dog Board, successful candidates become licensed guide dog instructors.

Licensed Instructors - Licensed instructors are responsible for training successful Guide Dogs and for instructing our students to safely and effectively travel with a dog for enhanced mobility. Licensed instructors must have excellent skills in delivering both classroom and practical instruction. They also participate in follow-up visits to our graduates throughout the United States and Canada.

To find out more about these unique opportunities - please visit our website at www.guidedogs.com or contact our Human Resource Department at (415) 499-4000.

Gift shop Guide Dogs for the Blind has a gift shop at both the California and Oregon campuses. The gift shop carries clothing with the Guide Dogs logo as well as a variety of gift items. Raisers are entitled to a 10% discount at either gift shop. To visit our online gift shop store, please visit our gift shop catalog on the internet.

Getting Started

Once you have begun attending meetings with a local puppy raising group, you will be learning about the puppy raising process, including the basics of guide dog puppy handling, submitting an application for a puppy and the basic requirements of the program.

In addition, you will receive a club activity description that will give you basic information about the club and its functions. Information contained in this document includes: • Calendar of Club Activities: regular meeting days, times and locations; details of any other regular club outings and activities. • Specific Attendance requirements • Leader names and contact information • Club and GDB website information • Financial expectations and obligations: dog food, crate, toys, fees for outings, dues for incidental club expenses (postage, copies, etc.) • Fundraising information: brief description of club fundraising activities and expected raiser participation

Program Participation Requirements A Guide Dogs for the Blind puppy raiser must be at least nine years of age. For raisers under the age of 16, the following requirements must also be met: • Raisers under 16 years of age will raise a puppy under the mentorship of a designated parent or other adult. • Parent(s) or adult mentor of youth under 16 will commit to and ensure that all program requirements for puppy raising are met. • At least one parent/designated adult mentor will attend all events, meetings and activities with youth under 16.

All family or household members that will handle the puppy at home or on outings must attend at least one club meetings within each 3-month period. In this way, all members of your household receive the same instruction and support while raising your puppy.

Meeting Attendance: It is important to note that all puppy raisers are required to attend at least 80% of club meetings and outings during each six month period of participation in the program.

For pups under 5 months, the minimum number of required meetings/activities is 4 per month. For puppies over 5 months, the minimum number of required meetings/activities is two per month.

On the occasion that a raiser cannot attend a meeting, he is required to contact the leader and make arrangements for the puppy to be at the meeting, if possible. Equally important to remember is that puppy raisers with puppies that are temporarily unable to attend club events due to a veterinary issue will still attend business meetings.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-1 11/2008 Support In addition to attending meetings and outings, you are expected to read and study this Puppy Raising Manual in order to gain familiarity with all aspects of raising a puppy. When you have attended a minimum of three consecutive meetings, you may submit your completed volunteer application to the club leader. Your application may be approved for a puppy after you have met the following requirements:

a. A successful home visit from your club leaders (e.g., no further modifications to house or yard required). b. Demonstration of a minimum level of puppy handling skills, including appropriate use of commands, proper correction technique, appropriate use of head collars, etc. c. Completed a minimum of five days of “puppy sitting” of program puppy.

Puppy exchanges: Your club leaders will occasionally arrange for you to puppy sit for another puppy in your club, and, likewise, for your puppy to spend a few days in another puppy raising home. These puppy exchanges are an excellent way for your puppy to experience new people and environments, and for you to learn more about handling different types of puppies.

Puppy exchanges (also called puppy trades) are an integral part of the puppy raising program and participation by all raisers and their puppies is required. Each raiser is expected to participate in a minimum of six exchanges per year (more at discretion of the club leadership or CFR). These exchanges are coordinated and monitored by a designated leader or club member.

Puppy sitting: There will be times when you are not able to care for your puppy for a period of time, due to a family vacation, a change in your schedule, an illness, etc. Whether it is for a few hours or a few days, your leader will help you find a raiser to take your puppy during that time. Please remember to coordinate puppy sitting with your leader. He or she knows who has the time and is best suited to your puppy’s needs.

For more information, see “Basic Requirements of Puppy Raisers” in the Policies, Forms and Resources section.

Introducing your team

Before you receive your puppy, you should know that there is a wonderful support system of people who will help you through any problem or question that may arise. First and foremost is your leader. Leaders are supported by the CFRs and other staff members of the Puppy Raising Department, who are, in turn, advised and supported by a host of veterinarians, instructors and other professionals.

The basic responsibilities of a leader include: • Teaching raisers the Guide Dog puppy raising policies and procedures. • Receiving and processing raiser applications. • Conducting a thorough home interview with each applicant and family to determine suitability of the raiser and the home environment.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-1 11/2008 Support • Providing each raiser with their Puppy Raising Manual and other relevant material; thoroughly reviewing the contents of the manual and other material with each raiser when the puppy first arrives home and on a regular basis thereafter. • Teaching raisers the techniques and guidelines as established by Guide Dogs for the Blind regarding puppy handling and socialization. • Maintaining medical records, monthly puppy raising reports, Project Records and other documentation. • Serving as a liaison between Guide Dogs for the Blind staff and the raisers. • Working with the local CFR to determine the best possible environment for the puppies. • Upholding the image of both Guide Dogs for the Blind and the 4-H organization (if affiliated).

Solving problems

Before you become involved in Guide Dog puppy raising, you must understand that our mission is to provide successfully trained guides to people who are blind or visually impaired. Sometimes that involves making difficult decisions - such as a decision to transfer a puppy to another raiser home. Likewise, you may be asked to accept a puppy that was previously being raised in another home. Our leaders, CFRs and entire staff are very committed and will make every effort to help you successfully develop your Guide Dog puppy. If problems arise with your puppy, your leader and CFR will suggest various procedures to help remedy them.

There are times, however, when certain problems cannot be resolved in the raiser home. Sometimes, raising the puppy just doesn't work out - for any number of reasons. The puppy may just not be right for a particular household. The time may not be right in the raiser's life for a puppy. What we do know is that the vast majority of our raisers try very hard to successfully raise a Guide Dog puppy, and we appreciate their efforts.

Possible steps to remedy an ongoing puppy problem: • Puppy evaluations to assess problems and progress • Temporary placement of the puppy to a foster raiser home • Permanent transfer to another raiser home • Career change - the puppy is dropped from the program and will be assigned to a home as a pet (detailed in section 7: What's next for your puppy)

Puppy evaluation • Puppy evaluations are usually scheduled or requested by a leader or CFR, but can be requested by another member of the Guide Dogs staff. • Evaluations are conducted by a Guide Dogs for the Blind employee either from their home or at a Guide Dogs designated facility. • Evaluations can take place for medical, temperament, cosmetic or behavioral reasons. • Following evaluations, recommendations are made as to what should be done next, which may involve specialized training techniques, temporary or permanent transfer of the puppy, or career change.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-1 11/2008 Support Foster raiser homes • Placing a puppy into a foster raiser home offers an opportunity to observe the puppy's health or behavior outside the setting of his raiser home. The process can help determine if the puppy's problems are the result of reactions to environmental factors or human influence.

Permanent home transfer • Permanent home transfers are sometimes necessary if the puppy is not developing properly physically, mentally, socially or behaviorally in the raiser home. • If your puppy is transferred to another home, you still will be invited to attend graduation and meet the individual who receives the dog (as long as your puppy was not transferred due to your abuse or neglect). • Even if your puppy was transferred to another home, you still may be eligible to receive another puppy. This decision is made on a case-by-case basis. The option is usually available if Guide Dogs for the Blind believes that the puppy placed into your household was not a suitable match for your family. • You may also be eligible to receive another puppy at a later date if it is believed that there were temporary or resolvable circumstances that prevented you and your family from effectively managing or caring for your puppy at that time.

Puppies dropped from the program • A puppy will be dropped from the program if the puppy has a health, temperament, or behavior problem that would prevent him from being an effective guide or if he has a cosmetic flaw that would draw undue comment. • Usually the last raiser will be the first offered to receive their "career changed" puppy. • Circumstances that may prevent you from being offered your puppy back are: ¾ Your puppy is dropped for inappropriate dog behaviors and you have one or more dogs in your household that Guide Dogs believes may not be able to safely live with your puppy. In the case you are raising another Guide Dog puppy, you will be given the option of transferring your current Guide Dog puppy or receiving your career change dog back. ¾ Your puppy has exhibited assertiveness or other inappropriate behaviors toward people. • For more information, see "Career Change" in section 7: What’s next for your puppy.

Dropping a puppy from the program is often difficult for a raiser family to accept. Please remember that our goal is to provide people who have visual impairments with a dog that can improve their ability to travel safely - one that is well mannered, healthy and easy to control.

Guide Dogs has put together a strong team of staff and puppy club leaders to work with you as you raise your puppy. Whenever you have a question about anything that relates to puppy raising, please do not hesitate to call your puppy club leader. If he or she does not know the answer, they will either find it for you or direct you to the necessary staff member who can assist you. Please do not call other GDB employees, other departments or students in class unless instructed to do so by your leader.

Dispute Resolution Puppy raisers are encouraged to present all Guide Dog-related concerns or complaints to their club leader at the earliest possible time. Individuals involved in disputes within the club should attempt to resolve the dispute in a constructive and respectful manner. The leader should act as a mediator in club disputes if necessary.

If a raiser believes that the leader is not the appropriate person with whom to raise the concern, or if the problem relates to the leader, the raiser should take the matter to the Community Field Representative. If the matter is still not resolved to the raiser’s satisfaction, the raiser may continue to raise the issue with the Puppy Raising Manager.

Public Confrontations If you have a dispute with a member of the public about access or any other Guide Dog- related issue, please contact your puppy club leaders immediately for guidance.

If you have a question or problem, the very first person to call is your leader. If the leader doesn't have the answer or a solution to your problem, he or she will call the area CFR and then relay the information to you.

In a lot of ways, a puppy is like a child. You need to be aware of its environment and how your pup's curiosity can sometimes lead it into danger. Some accidents are unavoidable, but proper, careful supervision can go a long way to keep your puppy safe. Prevent the following from happening to your puppy: BEING HIT BY A CAR: Our highest death rate and incidence of trauma (both mental and physical) is from puppies being hit by cars. Often it is the raiser's own car or the car of a friend on their own property. Puppies hit by cars, even if they are not killed outright or severely injured, may be dropped from the program due to their subsequent reactions to cars and traffic. DROWNING: Never leave a puppy unattended in an area with access to a swimming pool. If you have a pool, you may teach the puppy how to swim to the steps, but do not rely on this for total water safety. Do not leave a puppy unattended near any open body of water. Ponds, rivers and streams can be just as dangerous as pools. Control your puppy with a long-line or leash when you are around dangerous settings. Pools and other large bodies of water must be fenced to keep the puppy out of the area when not directly supervised. POISONING: Poisons can cause death or injury to internal organs that may result in your puppy being dropped from the program. Puppy-proof your house just as if you had a toddler in your home. Do not let your puppy drink from puddles (some contain dangerous anti-freeze) or other sources of water of uncertain purity. INGESTING FOREIGN BODIES: Foreign objects that are swallowed can cause obstructions in the stomach or intestines that must be surgically removed. The ingestion and the surgery both place the pup at risk. Puppies need to be taught from the time that they are young not to pick up objects from the ground, indoors and outdoors.

Suggested first aid kit supplies

Scissors - for cutting bandages and tape Tweezers - for picking off ticks and foxtails or picking out pieces of glass A roll of gauze - for wrapping bandages Gauze pads - for making a bandage A rectal thermometer (normal canine temperature is 101- 102.5 degrees) Adhesive tape - for securing bandages Blankets and towels - for covering a puppy to prevent shock K-Y™ jelly or Vaseline™ - to lubricate a rectal thermometer A flashlight - for checking ears and eyes Neosporin Ointment™ - for use on minor wounds or burns Hydrogen peroxide - for cleaning wounds Styptic pencil/powder or alum powder - to stop bleeding nails

NEVER use these items without a veterinarian's instruction and approval: Mineral oil - for use as a laxative Hydrogen peroxide - to induce vomiting Benadryl™ tablets/capsules - for allergic reactions Boric acid solution - for soaking wounds

In the case of a possible poisoning, consult a veterinarian immediately. Different poisons require specific treatments, and many times the speed of your response can make a crucial difference in your puppy's prognosis. After your puppy is stabilized, your veterinarian should contact a Guide Dog veterinarian to determine what further treatment should be provided.

Immediately after you have initially consulted with your veterinarian, inform your leader of what has occurred and the advice you have received. Your leader will then contact your area CFR.

Common substances that can be poisonous to dogs if ingested: Ant stakes Antifreeze Chocolate Fertilizers Household or automotive cleaning products and solvents Insecticides Unprescribed or overdosed medications Peach pits Potato "eyes" Raw fish Raw onions Rodent poisons Snail bait Tomato plants Houseplants - this list contains only the most common types of poisonous plants. A complete list is too large to be included here. Try to keep your puppy from eating any plant. If he does, call your veterinarian. Japanese Yew Mistletoe Oleander bushes Philodendrons Poinsettias

Here are some excellent additional references that you can refer to regarding poisons: http://www.napcc.aspca.org http://www.avma.org/pubhlth/poisgde.asp#top

(888) 426-4435 – National Animal Poison Control Center (please note: this center does charge a fee per call).

A good way to ensure both the comfort and the safety of your puppy is to provide him with adequate outdoor housing and confinement.

Fence requirements

• Yard fences should be a minimum of five feet in height. • Fences must be secure to prevent a puppy from going over, under, through or around them. Fences must prevent the puppies from escaping into the neighborhood or into hazardous areas, such as nearby swimming pools, vehicles, livestock, etc.

If the fence is not 100 percent secure, a kennel run (preferably covered) is needed to provide a safe relieving area. The following are some recommendations for kennels: • The kennel should be at least six feet wide, twelve feet long and six feet high. • The kennel run must be clean and dry. • The puppy must not be able to dig out of the kennel run. • Rubber horse-stall mats or large cement stepping stones placed side by side make an inexpensive, puppy-proof, non-permanent kennel floor. • Shade and water must always be available. • A warm, dry dog house must be provided for the puppy when he is outside in the kennel. • Kennel must be padlocked if no one is home so strangers cannot let the puppy out. • Use a clip to prevent your puppy from accidentally opening the latch.

General recommendations for confinement and housing: • Do not leave your puppy tied and unattended. • Temperatures over 85 degrees and below 30 degrees, including wind chill, can be life threatening. • Do not use your fenced yard as a kennel run for the following reasons: ¾ The average yard may contain poisonous plants. ¾ Many young puppies will chew when left alone and may ingest enough grass, twigs, plants, rocks, house or deck parts to suffer poisoning or serious gastrointestinal obstructions. ¾ Many young puppies learn to dig when they are left unsupervised in a grassy area. ¾ Puppies left alone in a fenced yard are more susceptible to being stolen.

Older pups, who are no longer prone to garbage mouth, may be left in a fenced yard when a responsible person is at home to check on the puppy frequently.

Training aids • 5-6 ft. leather leash (5/8” wide) - provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind with the first puppy raised. This leash should be kept by the raiser for subsequent puppies. • 4 ft. nylon line to be used as a puppy leash and later as a short dragline - provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind • Cable tie-down (length: 30 inches) - provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind with the first puppy raised. This tie-down should be kept by the raiser for subsequent puppies.

General supplies • Stainless steel food & water dishes, 2 qt. size should be adequate • Large size travel crate (24" wide x 36" long x 26" high) ¾ This size will accommodate most of our adult dogs. • Enzyme cleaner (Nature's Miracle™ is highly recommended) ¾ A good enzyme cleaner removes urine smell and reduces the chance that the puppy will relieve in the same area again. • A first aid kit (see suggested supply list in previous section 2-2 “Creating a safe, secure environment”)

Grooming supplies • Baby wipes to clean the outside of ears (alcohol-free, non-scented) • Ear cleaner - provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind • Either a soft slicker brush or a rubber curry brush and a comb (The type of brush will depend on the breed of dog you will be receiving. Talk to your leader.) • Toenail clippers (See your leader for a recommendation about what type and for instructions on how to cut nails.) • Styptic powder (to control bleeding if toenail quick is cut) • Toothbrush and toothpaste (Use only special toothpaste made for dogs. Human toothpaste can make your puppy sick) – provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind

Toys (See the "Puppy toy and play policy," in the Policies, forms and resources section)

Using the equipment There are many training tools that will prove instrumental in helping you control and train your puppy. First, we will introduce you to the crate, the ex-pen, the tie-down, the leash, the collar and the dragline.

The crate

A crate is not a cage. A puppy can be taught to regard a crate as his den where he has security. It should be large enough for a puppy to stand up, lie down and turn around in it, but small enough so a puppy does not feel comfortable in soiling it. It should be kept clean and dry. Approved toys such as Nylabones™ can be placed in the crate with a very young puppy. A crate is an excellent aid in teaching proper home behaviors, containing

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-4 2/2003 Equipment the puppy when you cannot watch him; however no dog or puppy should be contained for prolonged periods (no more than four hours at a time). • Absorbent bedding such as newspapers or blankets should not be placed in the crate with young puppies. ¾ Young puppies are bedded on shredded newspapers in the whelping and weaning kennels at Guide Dogs for the Blind. They may therefore, consider absorbent bedding as an appropriate surface for relieving, and this may cause them to begin relieving in their crates. ¾ The young puppy also may get into the habit of chewing on cloth or other materials left in the crate because a puppy is usually put into the crate when you are not available to supervise his actions. Ingesting bedding can cause intestinal blockage.

The ex-pen

An ex-pen (exercise pen) is a portable pen that consists of wire panels that are connected together. When not in use it can be folded up and readily stored. When set up it can be formed into a circle or a square. Ex-pens come in 24, 30, 36, and 48-inch heights. Their internal diameters are generally 4 feet.

Any pup over 25 pounds should not be confined in a pen without explicit approval from your CFR, and the minimum height of the pen should be 36 inches. The correct size to use would depend on the age and size of the dog. Baby pups need to be in at least the 30 inch and especially vigorous pups might need a full 48-inch sized pen to discourage them from climbing. It is generally recommended that, if you will be using an ex-pen to confine your pup for brief times, you purchase the tops that can be fastened to the pen. This firms up the pen but does only allow one dimension (48” x 48”). • Ex-pens should be used in the same fashion as a tie-down – in a supervised situation only. • Ex-pens are useful to close off an area of the house (for instance, the kitchen) or for making a large area smaller. This can give a dog success when it is being given more freedom and the raiser is with the dog. • Ex-pens should not be used in place of a run or a securely fenced yard, as unsupervised puppies can get hurt by getting caught in the opening or between bars. • Ex-pens can also topple or collapse. To use the ex-pen correctly, it should be secured to a wall by bungee cords or straps attached to eyebolts.

An ex-pen is also an excellent tool for teaching recalls and for practicing recalls with puppies that like to play “keep away.” If you are having difficulties with recalling your puppy or you would like to expand your ability to confine your puppy, please contact your leader about using an ex-pen.

The tie-down

The tie-down is used to teach the puppy to calmly accept remaining in one place. It can be especially helpful in the following situations: • Supervising young puppies • Housebreaking and teaching a puppy to relieve on command

Guidelines for tie-downs • Tie-downs are short, durable cables with clips on each end - one for the pup's collar, one for a ring in the wall. They should be at least 30 inches in length, long enough to permit movement. Your puppy should be able to stand and turn around comfortably. • Tie-downs should be short enough to prevent tangling or the puppy's ability to walk to the end to relieve himself. • Do not use chewable objects (such as your leash!) for tie-downs. • NEVER leave your puppy unattended on a tie-down.

Teaching the puppy to relax on a tie-down is essential. Many puppies do not initially accept remaining in one place, but once they learn to relax, acceptance comes very quickly. To teach your puppy to quietly accept the tie-down, use the following procedure:

Select a safe, visible spot to attach the tie-down • Remember that puppies can be strong, so make sure that you find something steadier than a chair. A chair may fall over on your puppy when he pulls on it. • Good places for fastening a tie-down are into the studs in a wall, to a couch, a heavy table or bed. • Put the tie-down in an area where the puppy can be observed 100 percent of the time. • Ideally you should have secure places to attach a tie-down in several areas of your house.

Calmly introduce your puppy to the tie-down • Once you have the tie-down secured, quietly bring your puppy and a chew toy to the area. • Remain positive and calm as you attach the tie-down. • Before you leave the puppy, it is important that he realize that he is on a line. • Lightly hold the tie-down and slowly move away from him as you release your hold. • Rushing away from him will make him want to rush toward you, causing a jolt against the tie-down. • Once you move away from the puppy, he will realize that he cannot join you. • Remain calm if your puppy begins to struggle, cry or scream. He is not being hurt; he is just not used to being restrained. • Ignore the puppy until he stops struggling and crying. • Do not talk to the puppy or it will make him more anxious. • Do not provide any type of attention. Simply ignore him until he is quiet and relaxed unless he is in danger (paw caught, etc.). • Return to the puppy and provide praise 30 seconds after he is quiet. Some puppies relax in a matter of seconds while others seem to take forever.

Be patient as your puppy is learning to accept the tie-down

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-4 2/2003 Equipment • Leave the puppy on the tie-down for only very short periods at first (start with just getting the puppy to relax at first - as little as three to five minutes - then slowly increase the time). • The puppy that will not relax needs your patience. You must wait until he is quiet and relaxed even if it takes many minutes. • The puppy that is released when he is struggling or screaming learns that struggling and screaming will get him released. The next time he is on a tie-down he will struggle harder and cry louder because that is what worked last time. You have, in effect, trained him to resist the tie-down. • When the puppy does relax, provide only light praise and support, rather than excited praise and coddling. Excited praise and coddling may cause the puppy to become anxious and begin the struggling and crying all over again.

With some puppies, you may be able to mark your success only by timing how long it takes before the puppy relaxes. At first it may seem that the tie-down training is not working, but if the time decreases (even if it is only by a few seconds), you are making progress. Should your puppy continue to strongly fight the tie-down after several days, contact your leader.

The dragline

A dragline is a long, strong cord or cable that is attached to your puppy's collar as he is allowed to explore the house. A dragline should always be used on your puppy flat collar, and not with a headcollar. You can use your puppy's nylon lead at first but later you will need a longer line. If the puppy is running or moving quickly, first step on the leash to avoid a “rope burn,” then pick up the dragline and correct. A nylon cord with a snap on one end and a loop on the other may also work well. The dragline should be light enough that the puppy can forget he is wearing it. The dragline allows you to correct your puppy from a distance when he starts to get into trouble.

Use of the dragline • Do not let your puppy wear a dragline unless you are supervising him every second. Puppies can get hung up and strangled in a moment. • At first, do not drop the dragline on the ground. Instead, hold on to the end of it and quietly follow him through the house as he explores. Remember to keep the line loose! • If the puppy displays any incorrect behaviors, quietly and quickly correct him from the end of the dragline. • Do not say "no" or use other verbal corrections. • Do not telegraph that the correction came from you. • Later, when he shows that he is starting to understand some of the basic rules (not chewing on the carpet or couch, staying out of the trash, etc.), drop the line and let him drag it around. • When you first place the dragline on the ground, do not come to the puppy's rescue if he struggles, cries, acts confused or hesitant, doesn't want to walk or becomes tangled (as long as he can't hurt himself). Instead, act neutral and ignore him.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-4 2/2003 Equipment • After he relaxes about the dragline, if a correction becomes necessary, pick the dragline up and administer a normal leash and collar correction (leash and collar corrections are described in the following section). • Praise the puppy as soon as he stops the inappropriate behavior.

For slightly older puppies that may already have learned some inappropriate behaviors, 6'- 8' of plastic coated steel line is very effective as a dragline because it is stiff and doesn't catch as readily on furniture.

The leash and collar

Guide Dog volunteers at the California facility first introduced your puppy to walking on a leash. Now your puppy needs to learn how to respond to his leash in a new setting - your home and neighborhood.

Introducing your puppy to the leash • Start soon after you get the puppy. At first, let the puppy lead you. • Stop any attempts to pull by using small pop-and-release corrections with the leash as he leads you around. • As you follow the puppy around, get the puppy's attention by sweetly talking to him and walking close to him. Little light touches on his body as you talk in an animated tone will encourage him to be interested in you and what you are doing. • Once you have his attention, walk a few steps at his side as you continue to use your voice and little touches to keep his interest in you. • Encourage him to follow you by moving away from him at an angle. • Remember to continue to use your voice and touches to keep his attention focused on you. • Praise him as he follows you. • Do not scold him for not following you.

If he resists following you: • Step in another direction. • In an excited tone, encourage him to follow you. • Bend over to his level and use your face to stimulate him to move toward you and follow you. Remember also to verbally encourage him. • Lightly clap your hands as you coax with your voice. • Use encouraging body language or movements such as wiggles or skips while you verbally encourage. • Lightly tap the ground in front of him with your hand as you encourage him with your voice or use little light touches on his body to encourage him to move toward you. • As he begins to get the idea that he is supposed to follow you, work to increase the distance he will follow. • Praise him when he follows you and leash and collar correct for any attempts to pull. • Repeat and continue to praise. Keep the exercise fun for the puppy.

Leash and collar corrections Now that the puppy is getting used to the leash, let's introduce you to the effective use of it before he decides he can drag you down the street. This information is only to get you

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-4 2/2003 Equipment started. The proper use of a collar and leash will be detailed more in individual exercises. Use leash and collar corrections for pulling as soon as your puppy will walk on a leash.

When he attempts to pull, use the following correction: • Slide your hand(s) down the leash closer to the collar. • Keep the leash loose between your hand and the collar. • Time your correction to occur as the puppy starts to pull, but the leash is still slack. • Use a snapping or popping motion with the leash while the leash is still slack. An effective correction will snap or pop and then immediately release. • Do not give a verbal correction. • Give only one correction at a time. • Try to give the necessary correction the first time. • If the puppy doesn't stop trying to pull, correct again with stronger snap. • Strengthen each correction until you have the puppy's attention and he stops trying to pull. • IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO PRAISE ANY TIME THE PUPPY TURNS HIS ATTENTION TO YOU AND STOPS PULLING.

INCORRECT collar and leash techniques are: • A TIGHT LEASH - this leads to constant pressure or pulling • Dragging the puppy or allowing it to drag you • Light, repetitive and ill-timed yanks • Improperly timed snaps • Hitting the puppy with the leash • Yanking on the leash without watching the puppy’s reaction

Giving effective corrections is an art. If your dog is not responding to your corrections, practice correctly using the pop-and-release technique without the puppy, i.e. hook the leash to a chain link fence and practice your technique on the fence. It's also important to remember to praise effectively. Your puppy will never respond appropriately to leash and collar corrections if you are not praising him for correctly traveling on a loose leash. The procedure is not easily described in writing. If you are having trouble understanding or it does not seem to be working, contact your leader for assistance and additional demonstrations.

Other training equipment There are two other pieces of training equipment approved by Guide Dogs: headcollars and the chain training collar. Both of these types of equipment may be used only on the recommendation and direction of your leader in consultation with your CFR. Do not purchase and use them on your own initiative.

The headcollar

A headcollar is a piece of training equipment that fits on a dog’s head and muzzle. 'Headcollar' is a generic term for this type of equipment and there are two brand names of products that Guide Dogs for the Blind routinely uses - the Halti™ and the Gentle Leader™. It is appropriate to call either of these pieces of equipment by the generic term, 'headcollar' or, depending on the brand a puppy is fitted with, it may be called by the

The idea is simple; where the head goes the body will follow. Headcollars are used for gentle control of a puppy or dog, and should be looked upon as just another 'tool' available to the raiser. Imagine leading a horse by a collar around its neck, the horse would simply drag you where it wanted you to go! By having control of the horse's head, you control his body. The same thing applies for dogs.

All Guide Dogs are introduced and worked in a headcollar at some point prior to being placed as a working guide. Depending on the needs of the individual dog or handler, it may be the best equipment for a working guide to use. It is beneficial, but not a necessity, for puppies to be accustomed to the headcollar before they return for formal training.

Headcollars are used to teach control and to direct a dog’s focus and body; they should never be used to correct. Who should use a headcollar and at what age should the puppy be introduced to one? Community Field Representatives, in consultation with leaders, will make the decision as to whether a puppy would benefit from a headcollar. They will give direction as to when and where to utilize the headcollar and when to stop using it. Puppies can be introduced to a headcollar at any age. Even pups as young as 8 or 10 weeks may benefit from this type of equipment.

Fitting a headcollar properly can be challenging. Unless you have a proper fit, you will not get the best use out of the equipment and the puppy may be uncomfortable. The Halti™ and Gentle Leader™ fit and work slightly differently. This is one of the reasons why it is important for leaders and CFRs to be the ones that show you how to place the equipment on the puppy.

Safety first! Next to proper fit, the use of a 'safety' collar is an important factor when using a headcollar. A nylon slip collar is used as a backup safety collar with all headcollars. Sometimes, a clever puppy will learn how to wiggle out of his headcollar, or slip it off over his nose. The safety collar will enable you to hold onto the pup if this should occur. The slip collar is not used to correct the dog and the leash should never be attached only to it. The slip collar should fit very loosely so that pressure on the headcollar will not cause pressure on the neck. The safety collar, like the headcollar, should never be left on an unattended dog.

An improperly used headcollar may have many negative effects, including neck injury, eye irritation from headcollar rubbing, and negative public perception. The headcollar should never be kept incessantly tight. Puppies should never be lifted off the ground by the headcollar, “dragged” by a headcollar or corrected with a “snap or pop and release” correction while wearing a headcollar. Raisers must be completely attentive at all times while handling a dog, even while in a headcollar. Improper use of a headcollar may lead to its removal by the raiser’s leader or CFR.

“No, my puppy is not wearing a muzzle.” This will be a common phrase the handler of a puppy wearing a headcollar will find himself or herself saying! While the headcollar does fit over the puppy’s muzzle, the

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-4 2/2003 Equipment puppy can still open and close its mouth, pant, eat and drink. The general public is getting used to seeing this type of equipment on dogs, but many people do think it is a muzzle and will question the handler about the equipment. Guide Dogs produces a card that explains this and raisers should have some on hand to provide education to the public.

Introducing the headcollar After a leader or CFR fits a puppy with his new headcollar, the first few days are spent getting the pup used to the new equipment. Some puppies take to the new feel right away and others need a little more time. Let the puppy wear the headcollar around the house when his mind is on something other than this new sensation. Feed the puppy, play with it or do puppy-handling exercises. Do not coddle the puppy or baby it; be matter-of-fact and upbeat and the pup will be more accepting. If the puppy rubs or paws at his face, give him a pop on his flat collar and/or distract him with some other activity. Increase the amount of time the puppy spends wearing the collar each day. It should not take more than a week, at the very most, for a puppy to adjust to the collar and be able to concentrate on his work again. At this time, you should meet with your leader or CFR to show you how to attach the leash and use the headcollar correctly. Never leave the puppy unsupervised with a headcollar on.

When should a puppy wear its headcollar? Once the raiser has been shown how to use the headcollar the puppy should continue to wear it every time he is being handled on-leash unless instructed otherwise by a CFR. It may be recommended that certain family members or handlers use the headcollar on the puppy more than others. Children handling a puppy in a headcollar should be supervised by an adult familiar with its application. The CFR may instruct the raiser to use the headcollar for a specified amount of time or just in certain situations. It is important that the puppy learn collar response and be controllable without the headcollar; the ultimate goal is to wean the puppy off the headcollar before it returns for formal training. The CFR and leader will discuss with you when the puppy should be evaluated for a change of equipment.

The puppy should never be left unattended in a headcollar or safety collar! This includes in his crate, in a kennel run or fenced yard or on tie-down. The collars could get hung up on something and injure the puppy or the puppy may learn how to remove it or chew it. The headcollar is a piece of training equipment and should be used for active training. You must remove the headcollar if the puppy is in a situation where you are not able to see its face and there is a possibility the puppy may be quietly removing or chewing the equipment. An example of such a situation is under a dark table in a restaurant. If the puppy can behave in this situation and you cannot directly supervise it, it would be appropriate to slip the leash onto the flat collar and remove the headcollar. Remember to re-attach your equipment before leaving the table and walking through the crowd! If the puppy cannot control itself without the headcollar in this type of situation, then the puppy is not ready for this type of outing. Good control is essential for a Guide Dog puppy; by using the appropriate equipment, it will help make your puppy more successful and your job a lot easier!

The chain training collar is commonly and incorrectly called a choke collar. Any handler who uses a training collar to choke a puppy is using it inhumanely, incorrectly and ineffectively. To receive permission to use a training collar, you must first receive personal training and demonstrate to your leader the ability to give an effective correction with a flat collar, keeping a loose leash. Improper use of a training collar can callous the puppy's neck or injure the puppy. Only individuals able to correct effectively should handle a dog that has been issued a training collar.

Guidelines for using headcollars, training collars or other equipment • Never leave a headcollar or training collar on a dog when you are not present; your puppy could become injured. • Never use any other training equipment without your leader's approval or before you have received instruction in its use by your leader. Your leader should discuss the use of any alternate training tools for your puppy with your area CFR before you are instructed in its use. • Electrical shock collars are forbidden for use on Guide Dog puppies. Reports of their use will result in the removal of the puppy.

Use of the crate and tie-down: • Crates and tie-downs should not be used to keep the puppy confined for long periods of time. • They should never be used as forms of punishment. • Puppies on tie-downs should always be supervised. • Leave your puppy in his crate or on tie-down initially only for short periods. • Increase his times of confinement as he develops patience and control of his bodily functions. • Ignore your puppy if he cries out of loneliness or frustration. • Learn to know the times he needs to "do his business" so that you can relieve him before confining him.

2-5 YOUR PUPPY’S ARRIVAL

If you are planning to take a vacation, arrange to get your new Guide Dog puppy after your return. A brand new puppy has enough changes going on in his life without the added rigors of vacation travel. (see “3-5 Trains, planes and automobiles" in section 3: Caring for your puppy)

Puppies may be transported to their new homes in a variety of ways, including: • Flying as air cargo in approved dog transportation carriers. • Traveling in an airplane's passenger section with a Guide Dogs for the Blind escort (reserved for older, well-controlled pups with the permission of the airlines and the puppy’s CFR). • Picked up by raisers at either the California or Oregon campus (generally raisers or leaders living within four hours of either facility). • Transported by the Puppy Raising Department in our specially equipped puppy truck. (This truck can carry up to 40 puppies! It has a hands-free cellular phone, a stereo and air-conditioning. It is well furnished and spacious, making it the "Cadillac" of Guide Dog transportation.)

Some rules to remember when picking up your puppy: • The more prepared you are, the better. The puppy is in a strange place with strange people, sights, smells and noises. It's up to you to get it into the friendly environment of its new home as quickly and efficiently as possible. • Arrive early. • Make sure that the person whose name is listed on the paperwork sent with the puppy by the Puppy Raising Department is the person picking up the puppy. • Bring proper identification.

The following items are for picking up puppies delivered via air cargo: • Be cooperative with all airline personnel. Remember that they have jobs to do and policies that they are required to enforce. • Bring puppy waste clean-up materials for the crate. • Bring a vehicle in which to transport the crate. • Realize that your puppy may be frightened. Be sure you are in a secured area before opening the crate to eliminate the possibility of your puppy bolting beyond your control. • Return the crate to Guide Dogs by following the instructions listed on the crate. UPS will pick it up at your home within two weeks. Be sure to let the Puppy Raising Department know immediately the address where the empty crate is to be picked up. If you have any problems with the pick-up, call our office at (800) 295-4050.

Keep These Phone Numbers Handy: • Your leader's phone number for any questions or problems you may have. • Your CFR's phone number in case you cannot reach your leader. • A good veterinarian's phone number whom you have lined up in the event of an emergency. • The phone number for the nearest 24-hour emergency veterinary clinic.

Please license your Guide Dog puppy with your county: In most areas, a county dog license is required. Some counties provide them free of charge or charge a reduced fee for Guide Dog puppies. Others ask for a full fee. Please check with your leader and/or your county animal control office to determine your county's procedure and fees.

Prepare your home

• Never allow the puppy to chew on anything other than Guide Dog-approved toys. Many non-approved toys and chewies can be ingested and may cause intestinal blockages. • Remove from reach anything that the puppy could quickly pick up that could go unnoticed by you: children's small toys, pens, and pencils, etc. • Move all wiring and electrical cords out of the puppy's reach so that they are inaccessible and place all medicines and cleaning supplies in a latched cabinet. • Check the garage for items that the puppy could easily ingest, including screws, nails, antifreeze, rat poison, fertilizer, bags of cement mix etc. Antifreeze is one of the most dangerous of all poisons. Just 1/4 of a teaspoon will kill most mature animals (that's just one lick!!!). Some manufacturers make antifreeze that is safer for pets, but be cautious of all. • Keep the puppy out of the kitchen when you are cooking to avoid burn injuries. • Set up a portable baby gate in the doorway of any room as an easy way to prevent the puppy from exploring other areas of the house where he can't be supervised. • Show the puppy all the sliding glass doors so he knows that they are there and doesn't walk into them. Consider putting a bright sticker on the sliding glass door (be sure to place it at puppy height so the puppy can see it). • Near your bed, set up a crate in which your puppy will sleep. This will prevent him from relieving in the house during the middle of the night. Most puppies will wake you when they need to go out.

Minimize your puppy's exposure to other people and animals for the first few days.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-5 2/2003 Your Puppy’s Arrival Supervising your puppy, keeping him safely secured • Don't leave your puppy loose and unattended. If you cannot watch the puppy (even for a moment), put him in a safe area such as a crate or a dog run. • Never allow your puppy to run loose and unsupervised with other dogs - your pup could be injured! Accidents can occur when puppies and dogs are running and playing in the backyard. Many internal injuries and broken bones (generally from excessively rough play) have been reported to us in the past that could have been prevented with adequate supervision. • Never allow the puppy outside of a fenced yard without a leash and always have a leash on the puppy when you open a door that leads to an unfenced area. • When the doorbell rings, do not open the door until you have secured the puppy in a crate or have put a leash on him. • Young children should always be supervised around your puppy. • When you are grooming your pup, check the fit and condition of his collar. Should you find a problem with the collar, contact your leader immediately. Secure your pup by attaching a temporary collar with the puppy's Guide Dog I.D. until you receive a new collar from Guide Dogs. If it's not possible to remove the I.D. from the old collar, have the puppy continue to wear it along with the temporary collar until you receive a replacement Guide Dog collar. • Never leave your puppy unattended when attached to a tie-down. • Do not wrap the leash around your hand or loop it over your body or shoulder when you are going out for a walk. It could be difficult to free yourself in the event of an emergency. • Your pup should never ride in the back of an open pickup truck loose or tied (see “3-5 Trains, planes and automobiles” in the section 3: Caring for your puppy) • If you leave your Guide Dog puppy with anyone, make sure the person is experienced in Guide Dog puppy care. You may only leave your puppy with people trained in Guide Dog puppy training techniques or those who have been approved by puppy raising leaders.

On the trip home

If your pup has just arrived by plane or via the puppy truck, put his leash on him as quickly as possible and let him relieve. Select an area that has not been used by other dogs but is considered an acceptable spot for dogs to use. • Praise him if he relieves. • Clean up after him immediately. • Offer him a drink of water. • Return him to his crate or place him on a passenger’s lap for the ride home. • Do not hold him if you are driving. • Do not let him roam your car freely. • Remember not to have him on a front passenger’s lap or the front floorboard if you have a passenger-side airbag in your car. • Ignore his cries. Praise him when he is quiet. • Gently correct him with a quick tug on his collar if he struggles or mouths the person holding him. • Hold him calmly and stroke him slowly after correcting him. • Praise him when he is calm.

Your new puppy has arrived! While you may be tempted to show him off, understand that your pup needs time to adjust to his new surroundings. Arrange some quiet time. Instead of inviting a crowd of people to welcome him to his new home, wait a few days and then allow only one or two visitors at a time.

Begin teaching your puppy your expectations immediately. Do not let him do anything now that will be unacceptable later, including mouthing, barking, jumping, inappropriate relieving, getting on furniture, etc.

• ADMINISTER ANY MEDICATIONS THAT MAY HAVE ARRIVED WITH YOUR PUPPY. If you have any questions, contact your leader. • Carry him to the spot where you want him to regularly relieve upon his arrival and follow the relieving procedure outlined in "3-2 Relieving" in section 3: Caring for your puppy. • Offer your puppy a drink of water and some puppy food if it is time for a feeding. If he eats, make sure to relieve him again. • Put your puppy on-leash and let him explore the house while you follow and supervise him. You may want to restrict him to non-carpeted areas initially. • Introduce your puppy slowly to other human family members. • Allow him to meet other pets slowly, carefully and one at a time. • Put the family pet dogs on leash and with the puppy also on a leash, slowly allow them to approach one another. It is easiest to make these introductions outside in the yard. • Do not allow pet dogs and the puppy to be close enough to grab, mouth or bite each other. • Keep the leashes loose and praise the family pet dogs for friendly behavior. • Teach family pet dogs to behave gently by giving them a leash and collar correction when they behave roughly. • Delay introducing the puppy to pet cats until the next day if possible. Many cats adjust better when allowed to get used to the scent of the new puppy, rather than through forced introductions. Never attempt to restrain a cat while introducing a puppy. • Give the puppy some space. Too much attention and activity from people or other pets can overwhelm him. • Begin the instructions contained in "3-2 Relieving" in section 3: Caring for your puppy. • Place the puppy in his crate or kennel if he cannot be supervised. • Take the puppy out frequently to relieve. • Offer the puppy food and water regularly, according to his feeding schedule.

The first evening Gently play with your puppy or do puppy-handling exercises prior to putting him to bed in his crate or kennel. See section 6: Training techniques.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-5 2/2003 Your Puppy’s Arrival • Have the puppy sit calmly while you handle feet, head, ears, mouth, eyes. • Perform the lay-over technique described in “6-3 Commands” in section 6: Training techniques. • Make sure to do the exercises very calmly and quietly. This will help tire the puppy. • Give the puppy one final opportunity to relieve for the evening and remember to praise his success. • Make sure the puppy is calm before you put him to bed. • Give the puppy a Nylabone™ in his crate to chew on for comfort. • Preferably, crate him in your bedroom at night. • Do not pamper the puppy if he cries or reward his crying by responding to it frequently. • Take the puppy out to his spot to relieve if he wakes crying during the night. Praise him when he relieves; take him back to bed. • Repeat the above as necessary, but make sure that you are not just giving in to the puppy's crying.

The next day... Take the puppy out to relieve the very first moment he awakens in the morning. Carry him outside this first morning or two before he has learned not to relieve in the house. Remember to follow the “Relieving” procedure (see section 3: Caring for your puppy). • Bring the puppy back in the house for his breakfast and some water. • Take him out to relieve again immediately following his meal. Praise his success. • Constant supervision of the puppy throughout the day is necessary. Put him in his kennel or crate when you need a break. • Begin his tie-down training.

• Leave the puppy's collar on at all times. • Don't leave him on tie-down unattended. • Never take him out of the safe, secure yard off-leash. • Do not overwhelm him with too many new experiences. • Use precaution against loss or injury. • Offer food and water regularly. • Give the puppy plenty of relieving breaks, praising his successes every time. • Supply plenty of love. • Call your leader if you have any questions or problems.

You can begin shaping your puppy's behavior right away. Young puppies are constantly learning, whether you are actively teaching them or not. The best time to mold their behavior is from 8 to 20 weeks of age. Older puppies still learn, but at 8 weeks, you are starting with a fresh slate. While we will be going over some of the techniques listed below in detail further on in this manual, you can ask your leader for assistance.

Start immediately: • Leash relieving (especially on a variety of surfaces) - See section 3: Caring for your puppy

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-5 2/2003 Your Puppy’s Arrival • House manners (do not allow chewing, mouthing, food stealing, etc.) - See "6-1 Important behaviors" in section 6: Training techniques. • Teach your puppy his name and that commands mean something. ¾ Do not add commands to the puppy handling exercises until the puppy easily accepts the handling exercises. - See "6-3 Commands" in section 6: Training techniques. • Teach your puppy to calmly walk up and down stairs - See "6-1 Important behaviors" in section 6: Training techniques • Socialization, traffic and self-control procedures - See "6-1 Important behaviors" in section 6: Training techniques

Work daily on: Puppy handling exercises • Have the puppy sit calmly while you handle feet, head, ears, mouth, eyes • Lay-over (described in “6-3 Commands” in 6: Training techniques) • Come command ¾ Start by calling your puppy back and forth between two people. ¾ Go slowly and allow the puppy to receive calm praise from each person. ¾ Take hold of the collar every time the puppy comes to you. ¾ Never allow the puppy to refuse to come, even if it means walking him down and gently bringing him back to the spot where you were standing when you called him. ¾ Never repeat the Come command. ¾ Always praise the puppy for coming on command ¾ For more information, see “6-3 Commands” in section 6: Training techniques

Leash responsiveness • Walking on a loose leash (without pulling!) • Refraining from mouthing the leash, shoes or clothing • Refraining from being a garbage-mouth (picking up sticks, leaves, etc.) while walking ¾ If a puppy is prone to being a garbage-mouth and must be left outside in a kennel, it is a good idea to put down a concrete floor. Placing large concrete squares or heavy horse-stall rubber mats side-by-side in the kennel may be used to create temporary flooring. Do not leave your puppy in a kennel with flooring he can dig.

Provide close supervision of your pup. If you are unable to closely supervise the puppy, even for a short time, place the puppy in a crate or other puppy-proofed place (ex-pen or safe outdoor run). When puppies are young, use the nylon leash provided as a dragline. (See "2-4 Equipment (and how to use it)," earlier in this section). Use the dragline only when you can supervise your puppy.

When you are playing with your Guide Dog puppy or teaching him the behaviors and training exercises outlined in this manual, remember that Guide Dog puppies are different from regular pet dogs. Guide Dogs are special partners for people with special needs. For this reason they must be taught differently than other dogs. While raising your puppy, think about how his actions will affect his future partner.

A Guide Dog must: • Be comfortable around all types of people (strangers and friends) and not be distracted by them when at work. • Resist temptations of food on floors, tables and when offered by people. • Ignore dogs and all other types of animals distracting and approaching him while he is working. • Concentrate on his work when in heavy traffic situations, crowds of people, near children playing, or people playing games with other people or their pets. • Work in busy city areas as well as in quiet country areas. • Travel on all types of transportation: buses, cars, trains, planes, subways, etc. • Work amid a variety of everyday noises. • Behave in every public situation. • Remain calm during applause or cheering crowds. • Negotiate all types of stairs, surfaces and elevators with confidence and caution • Be a healthy eater of a nationally obtainable dog food which will maintain his proper body weight, coat and orthopedic health without exceptional supplements and care. • Have good house manners: ¾ be house trained and relieve only on command ¾ be calm in the house ¾ come when called ¾ not be destructive when left alone ¾ not pick up or chew other’s possessions ¾ not beg for or steal food ¾ refrain from charging through doors • Have good street manners: ¾ walk calmly on leash ¾ obey the commands to stop, sit, lie down and stay ¾ be comfortable with all people, noises, smells, vehicles and settings ¾ ignore distractions ¾ not chase cats or other small animals ¾ not behave aggressively toward or be distracted by other dogs ¾ not be distracted by food on the ground or in people's hands • Have good manners in public buildings: ¾ know how to lie down and stay in one place quietly ¾ be calm in all settings ¾ ignore food in restaurants ¾ wait calmly for long periods of time ¾ relieve on-leash and on command in many different settings and on many different surfaces • Have good manners when traveling:

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-6 2/2003 What It Means ¾ travel calmly in many different types of cars or vehicles ¾ not whine, bark, drool, fidget or pace while being transported

In order to provide the foundation for training in guidework, a Guide Dog puppy needs to learn how to: • Interact with humans and have a desire to please them and thrive on their praise and affection. • Ignore all types of distractions in which a dog would normally show interest. • Behave properly at any time, even in situations that encourage distraction and play. • Be comfortable in as many different environments as possible, including busy cities and rural areas. • Remain calm and comfortable while being groomed or handled. • Avoid any physical behavior that would be harmful to a blind handler, such as jumping or getting underfoot. • Be relaxed and obedient when traveling on all types of transportation. • Be friendly and relaxed around other animals without seeking their company and attention. • Be friendly and relaxed around all types of people. • Negotiate all types of stairs, surfaces and elevators calmly and with confidence.

Guide Dog puppies need to be raised differently than pet dogs • Hand feeding teaches begging. • Feeding “people food” teaches food stealing. • Allowing him to root through garbage cans teaches food stealing. • Playing “fetch” promotes chasing balls, other objects and other animals. • Teaching to retrieve also promotes the picking up, carrying and moving of human possessions. • Not supervising play with other dogs may teach dog obsession and sometimes submission or aggression. • Allowing barking at strangers or new experiences may teach unacceptable fear or aggression. • Allowing barking when excited may teach unacceptable behavior. • Allowing to race through the house may teach dangerous, accident-causing behavior.

Guide Dog puppies are different, but they still have fun. They really enjoy getting to go places with you such as church, the grocery store, museums and other destinations. Other activities like riding a bus or attending baseball and football games are fun for a Guide Dog puppy. Puppies can also enjoy interactive play, tug-of-war and hide-and-seek.

The reward for teaching your puppy how to have fun in the Guide Dog way is seeing him grow to become a responsible dog that willingly and happily helps his new partner. His reward is becoming the partner of someone who will love him dearly and take him everywhere.

DO Supervise at all times when out, using every opportunity to teach. Keep fresh water available at all times. Keep your yard free of all dog waste. Clean your puppy's crate or sleeping area at least twice a week. Practice leash relieving regularly and on different surfaces. Take your puppy for frequent car rides to visit different places and other people's homes. Allow other people to pet your puppy. Take your puppy for frequent walks. Allow your puppy to interact with other pets, but always supervise them closely to prevent injury or development of inappropriate behaviors. Allow your puppy to run and get lots of exercise but only in a safely enclosed area. Give your puppy baths when he is unusually dirty. Daily brushing keeps puppies clean. Develop a structured socialization and stimulation plan to gradually expose your puppy to new places, people, surfaces and noises. Practice calmly walking up and down different stairs on a regular basis. Confine your puppy on a tie-down under your supervision for at least 15 minutes a day. Call your leader if you have any questions about the management of your puppy. Call your leader and discuss any questions you may have about your puppy's health before taking your puppy to the vet. IN THE EVENT OF AN EMERGENCY, CALL THE VET FIRST AND THEN TELL YOUR LEADER ABOUT THE PROBLEM.

DO NOT Hit or shout at your puppy. Leave a training collar or headcollar on your puppy when he is in a crate or kennel, or unsupervised in any way. Allow your puppy to chase cars or bikes. Allow your puppy to chase, injure or roughhouse with cats, other dogs, small creatures or livestock. Leave your puppy alone with other dogs in your house, yard, or kennel. Confine your puppy for long periods of time (no more than four hours at a time) during the day. Allow your puppy to mouth, chew or bite on people. Allow your puppy to play with or chew on anything other than Guide Dog approved toys. Leave your puppy unsupervised outdoors unless he is confined in a safe, secure kennel. Permit your puppy to run loose off leash in unfenced areas. Call your puppy to you in order to correct him. Allow your puppy to bark or whine while crated, on tie-down or in public. Leave your puppy unattended on tie-down. Use any flea or tick control product that has not been approved by your veterinarian. Give your puppy any medication that has not been prescribed by your veterinarian. Leave your puppy (crated, tied or loose) unattended in a vehicle. Teach your puppy to retrieve or play any sort of retrieve or chase games. Permit other people to play rough games with your Guide Dog puppy.

All puppies and especially Guide Dog puppies need to be taught manners. As a Guide Dog, he will live with his partner 24 hours a day, so he needs to learn acceptable manners early. The following guidelines have been established to help you to develop your puppy into a pleasant, easy-to-live-with companion:

• Never permit your puppy on the furniture. • Never permit the puppy to get into the trash or to nose around food that does not belong to him. • Do not feed your puppy from the table or permit him to eat while you are eating or preparing food. • Do not permit your puppy to eat anything unless it is put into his bowl. • Never permit your puppy to steal food from the table or to accept food from someone's hand. • Never permit your puppy to jump up on or mouth people. • Never permit your puppy to rush out of doors or exit vehicles without your permission. • Never permit your puppy to lunge at or drag you toward dogs or other animals. • Never encourage your puppy to act aggressively. • Do not permit your puppy to be protective of his food or toys. Use the recommended techniques in "3-1 Feeding" in section 3: Caring for your puppy.

Public etiquette When you begin taking your puppy to public places, please do not forget common courtesies and etiquette. When you and your puppy are in public, you are representing not only yourself, but also your local club, Guide Dogs for the Blind, and people who use our dogs as guides. Raiser and/or puppy social "mistakes" can affect the public's view of guide dogs in general, as well as Guide Dogs for the Blind.

The public's negative perception of you and your Guide Dog puppy possibly could lead to restrictions of access, not only for you, but also for other puppy raisers and even for people with visual impairments who use guides.

Puppy etiquette • Please relieve your puppy in appropriate areas, not on other people's property. • If your puppy does have an accident, please clean it up. Always carry a clean-up kit with you. • Remove your puppy from the setting if he becomes so excited that you cannot control him. • Select your socialization sites carefully to ensure that they are places you will be able to control your puppy. • Have a clean and well-groomed puppy. • Regularly wash your puppy jacket to keep it clean. If your jacket becomes tattered, contact your leader so it can be replaced.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-8 2/2003 Etiquette People etiquette • As a puppy raiser, you are representing Guide Dogs when you take your puppy in public. You should show pride in your work by dressing in an appropriate manner when out and about with your Guide Dog puppy. • Puppy raising can improve your public speaking skills because many people will be interested in meeting your puppy and hearing about the important work you're doing. Be prepared to answer questions about your puppy and about Guide Dogs. • Always ask first before entering public buildings. Take your puppy only where he is willingly welcomed, regardless of any state or local laws that may technically grant him access. Guide Dogs “rules of access” only allow raisers and puppies to go where they are happily welcomed. • Do not try to force or argue your way into a business or public facility that questions or refuses your puppy's access. Thank the people for their time and quietly leave. • Thank all businesses that allow you and your puppy to visit them. Their kindness provides a place for our puppies to become socialized. They are helping us achieve our mission. Express your (and our) appreciation by talking to the employees, writing thank you notes or mentioning your thanks in letters to the editor of your local newspaper.

All raisers are required to follow the “Nutritional policy” (see Policies, forms and resources) or follow the advice of the CFR or Guide Dogs veterinarian. Remember to give your puppy access to clean, fresh water at all times. Without enough water, your pup could become ill. The amount of food you should provide will vary according to your puppy's growth rate, activity level and other factors (such as climate). Refer to the Nutritional policy when you first get your puppy to help set guidelines for amounts to feed your puppy. The instructions on the dog food bag are only general averages. They must be adjusted to meet your puppy's individual needs. Refer often to the Body Condition Score sheet to help assess your pup’s current condition. • As a guideline, raisers will usually start feeding an 8-week-old pups 1 cup, 3 times a day and then slowly increase the amount of food following instructions given by your leader. • Pay attention to how fast your puppy is growing and his general activity level. It's better for his bone development if he grows slowly, but he should not appear extremely thin. • Realize that puppies do not grow at a continuous rate even though it may seem so. They can go through several periods when their growth rate slows down for a time. Assess your pup’s condition before increasing his food. Don’t increase his food based on his age alone. • It is always better to keep him on the lean side. Excessive weight in puppies can lead to serious bone, joint and other health problems, as they grow older. • Use a measuring cup (not a can, glass jar or coffee mug) to measure his food. ¾ As he grows, his needs will increase for a while. Adjust the amount of food accordingly. ¾ As he starts to mature, you will need to decrease his food intake as his growth tapers off. ¾ If your pup receives notification to be altered (spayed or neutered) his nutritional needs will decrease after that procedure. • You will know how to modify the amount of food to provide by observing your puppy's build. Refer to the Body Condition Score sheet to assess his condition. • When your puppy is in Ideal Body Condition: ¾ You will easily be able to feel each individual rib with your fingertips.. ¾ His waist will be obvious when viewed from above. ¾ His belly will be well tucked up behind his ribcage when viewed from the side.

Guidelines to promoting good eating habits and protecting health:

• Do not allow your puppy to eat whenever he chooses. Keep him on schedule. • Measure your puppy's food using a standard measuring cup. • Feed your puppy away from other family pets to avoid developing potential food possessiveness issues. • Clean feeding bowls at least once a day. • Add a small amount of water to his kibble before serving it to make it more palatable, • Provide clean, cool water for your puppy to drink when he chooses. • Do not feed nutritional, vitamin or mineral supplements unless recommended by your CFR or Guide Dog veterinarian.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-1 11/2008 Feeding • Poor appetite does not signal a need to change food brands. • Feed the puppy only from his bowl unless you have been instructed otherwise for various training techniques. • Rapid or continuous changes in the puppy's diet can upset his system. • Pick up any food that the puppy does not eat in 5-10 minutes and don't offer more food until the next scheduled feeding time. • If you have ongoing concerns about your puppy’s weight or dietary habits, contact your leader who will consult with your CFR.

Follow these general guidelines for timing frequency of meals: • 8-16-week-old pups: three meals a day • 4 months and older: two meals a day

Changing your puppy’s food

Some possible reasons to change your puppy's food: • Frequent diarrhea • "Spitting up" or other types of vomiting • Excessive gas • Improper weight • Overly rapid growth • Excessive stool volume

When it is appropriate to change food brands: Remember, lack of appetite is usually not an acceptable reason for changing your puppy's brand of food. • Do not change foods without first consulting your leader; only your CFR or Guide Dog veterinarian may make the decision to change a puppy’s food. • Refer to the “Nutrition policy”. • If your veterinarian recommends a change, please have him consult with the veterinary clinic at Guide Dogs. • Slowly change foods to avoid diarrhea that can result from rapid or frequent changes of food.

Be sure to always accurately measure your puppy's food and don't overfeed!

Tips to remember when feeding your puppy

Remember, no extra treats or dog biscuits: Your puppy’s regular diet includes all the nutritional value and calories you puppy needs. Do not supplement your puppy’s diet with “people food” of any kind. Even very

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-1 11/2008 Feeding small amounts of an unusual or “rich” food can cause dietary upset and lead to digestive problems, vomiting and diarrhea.

Teach your puppy not to be possessive of his food by following these steps: • Always feed your puppy separate from other family pets – preferably out of sight. • Do not hover over the puppy while he is eating. • Do not allow young children to pester the puppy while eating; it may inadvertently teach him that he must defend his food. • Do not test your pup by trying to remove the bowl or put a hand in the bowl prior to the puppy finishing his food. He should be allowed to eat without the concern of someone taking it away from him. • If your puppy growls at you at any time during the feeding process, immediately notify your leader. • Please see section 6: Training techniques for additional information.

Healthy puppies should have healthy appetites! Some symptoms that people attribute to diet actually may be the signs of an infectious disease or may be symptoms of a gastrointestinal problem caused by eating something like a sock or a plastic tie off a bread bag. Any such maladies should be treated immediately. It may not be the food that is causing the problem. NOTIFY YOUR LEADER IMMEDIATELY IF YOUR PUPPY HAS ANY OF THE SYMPTOMS LISTED BELOW. THEY MAY BE SIGNS OF ILLNESS. If your pup: • Is underweight • Has diarrhea, vomiting or other symptoms of an upset stomach • Has poor skin or coat • Is a picky eater • Loses his appetite suddenly • Is lethargic

If your puppy eats too fast and either gags or vomits his food back up while eating, try one of these tips to slow him down: • Add enough water to his food to almost float the dog food. • Add a rock (much larger than your puppy can eat) or large Nylabones or Kongs to the pan to encourage your puppy to pick up a few pieces of food at a time instead of gulping it. • Change to a different kind of feed pan such as a large rectangular cake pan or an "angel food" cake pan that has a hole in the center.

Pointers from the veterinarian • Never feed your dog table scraps. Rich foods can lead to digestive problems, vomiting and diarrhea. Bones, chocolate, grapes as well as a numerous of other human foods can be deadly for a dog. • Be sure to measure your dog's food carefully. A mere extra couple of ounces per meal can add up to two or three pounds of excess fat per month. Never supplement your dog's diet without the advice of a Guide Dogs’ veterinarian.

Just as you and I need to be conscious of what we eat and keep ourselves fit and healthy, we need to do the same for our pups. Periodically, your club leader or your CFR will assess your puppy’s body condition to see if he is in the desired lean condition. Your puppy’s Body Condition Score (see “Understanding your Dog’s Body Condition” on the next page) is entered on the Project Record and indicates his basic health and condition.

Your pup should look like a young athlete: lean and healthy. Ideally the puppy should have a clearly visible waist behind its rib cage and a nice ‘tuck up’ in the abdomen. You should be able to feel each individual rib without pressing too hard, not just the barrel of the rib cage. A puppy that is too thin may have clearly visible ribs and his hip bones may stick out. Remember: lean not skinny!

Overfeeding results in not only fat puppies but can lead to digestive upsets too. Too much weight makes the transition to the regimens of training harder. Additionally, studies shows that obesity in dogs can cause a variety of health problems and shorten their life. So, don’t give in to that cute “I’m starving” look that your puppy gives you!

If you are not sure if your puppy is at an appropriate weight, please have your leader help you.

COND Y IT D I O O B N

S ® Y M S T E ™

ADULT Feeding to ideal body condition provides real, long-term health benefits, and the chart below should be used to monitor your dog’s body condition. Since every dog is different, modify your feeding amounts as needed to help your dog reach ideal body condition.

Underfed Dog Ideal Body Condition Overfed Dog

Ribs are highly visible. Increase the Can feel and see outline of ribs. Dog has no waist when viewed from amount you are feeding. After 2 or 3 Dog has a waist when viewed from above. Belly is rounded when viewed weeks, compare again. Adjust until above. Belly is tucked up when from the side. Decrease amount you dog exhibits ideal body condition. viewed from the side. Maintain are feeding. After 2 or 3 weeks, current feeding regimen. compare again. Adjust as necessary.

BENEFITS OF MAINTAINING IDEAL BODY CONDITION: • Promotes a leaner, longer, healthier life • Reduces a dog’s percentage of body fat for better health • Reduces potential for developing weight-related • Helps maintain healthy blood sugar levels health conditions • Helps maintain healthy blood pressure and heart rate

The Body Condition System was developed and tested at the Purina Pet Care Center, and has been documented in the following publications: Laflamme, DP. Body Condition Scoring and Weight Maintenance. Proc N Am Vet Conf Jan 16-21, 1993, Orlando FL, pp 290-291. Laflamme DP, Kealy RD, Schmidt DA. Estimation of Body Fat by Body Condition Score. J Vet Int Med 1994; 8:154. Laflamme DP, Kuhlman G, Lawler DF, Kealy RD, Schmidt DA. Obesity Management in Dogs. J Vet Clin Nutr 1994; 1:59-65.

3-2 RELIEVING

Teach your puppy to relieve on-leash, on command

If your Guide Dog puppy is to be a good companion, he needs to be trained to relieve himself outside - not in your house. To be a guide, he must also learn to relieve on command when and where you ask him to. The Do your business command executed on-leash is a very important lesson for a Guide Dog to learn. In order for a person who is blind to be able to work effectively with their guide, they must have a dog that will respond promptly and reliably to the relieving command. Relieving in harness is still a major reason for career changing dogs in training. The following are a few simple techniques to teach your puppy good relieving habits:

Use this procedure when relieving your puppy on-leash: • Start by taking the puppy, on-leash, to his relieving area at your home. Young puppies in a hurry may need, at first, to be carried to the relieving area. The goal is to have your puppy walk by your side to the relieving area in a controlled manner. • Choose a relieving area that can be used each time you take your puppy outside. Using a familiar area may help stimulate him to relieve. Choosing a relieving area with concrete, gravel or asphalt early on can be helpful in teaching your puppy to relieve on hard surfaces. • Once you are at the relieving area, give the puppy a release command “O.K.” and cast the puppy out front of you. Allow the puppy to sniff the ground and circle in front of you. Encourage him to walk in a circular pattern. You can pivot in the center to remain facing the pup as he circles. We do not want the puppy ending up relieving on the handlers left side. Do not follow him to move to fresh ground or attempt to explore. A six-foot radius around you should be sufficient for the puppy to relieve in. If the puppy is reluctant to move you may take no more than two steps forward immediately followed by two steps backwards to encourage him to move; keep him circling as you do this. • The moment he begins to relieve, say Do your business followed by praise. It is important, in the beginning, to wait until the puppy is actually urinating or defecating to say Do your business. This will help him relate what you are saying to what he is doing. Once he has made the connection, you can modify your timing to teach him to relieve when he hears the command. It may take several weeks for him to make the connection. • When he seems to understand the connection between relieving himself and the command, the next step is to say the command immediately before he starts to relieve. Do not say the command unless you are certain he is going to relieve.

¾ Once you have done this for several days, try saying the command while he is circling or showing other signs to indicate that he is preparing to relieve but hasn't actually started. ¾ Finally, begin saying the command as soon as he reaches the spot that you use for relieving him.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-2 11/2008 Relieving • Keep your voice calm and positive throughout. By following this routine your pup will learn to relieve on-leash and on command. • Leash relieve every time. This allows your puppy to become comfortable with relieving on leash and gives you the opportunity to praise him for a job well done.

Be in tune with your puppy's needs • Observe the pattern of times he may need to relieve. ¾ First thing in the morning ¾ After playing, eating or napping ¾ More frequently if he is feeling stressed, being exercised, being trained or being introduced to new situations • Learn to know how long he can wait between trips outside. ¾ Little puppies cannot wait very long, while older puppies can learn to "hold it." • Know when to feed and water the puppy. ¾ Do not load him up with water right before bedtime. TAKE CARE NOT TO LIMIT HIS WATER TOO SEVERELY BECAUSE IT MAY MAKE YOUR PUPPY SICK. ¾ Always offer him an extra opportunity to relieve after his last meal of the day. ¾ Relieve your puppy just prior to bedtime to help insure his bowels are empty. • Read his body language that signals when he needs to relieve. ¾ Some pups sniff the ground or floor intently or start circling just before relieving. ¾ Other pups may walk differently or suddenly interrupt an activity when they feel the need to relieve. • He may have a whine or bark which signals he needs to relieve. • Observe if he needs to relieve more than once each time out. • Take him out when he signals, even if it's in the middle of the night. • Try not to get discouraged if he does not relieve every time you take him out or if he needs to relieve again after he just came in. • It may take him awhile to learn what is expected of him, so be patient when he has an accident.

Be consistent • Take your young puppy out to relieve every time he asks to go out or shows behaviors indicating he needs to relieve, every time you think he might need to relieve, and when he is scheduled to go out after sleeping, playing or eating. • Teach older pups to learn to hold it and wait for offered opportunity to relieve • Praise him every time he "does his business" as you have asked.

Combine prevention with patterning to teach appropriate relieving habits • Leave your puppy in his crate or in his kennel if you cannot supervise him. • Make sure your crate is not too large when he is small. Most puppies will try not to soil an area where they are closely confined. • By supervising and watching his body language you can prevent most relieving accidents when he is not in his crate or kennel. The fewer opportunities he has to relieve in the house, the easier it will be for him to learn to relieve outside.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-2 11/2008 Relieving • Use your dragline to gently correct him if you see him start to relieve in the house. • At first, take him outside on his leash to the same spot every time and say Do your business, as he starts relieving. • Praise him with your voice only as he relieves. • Wait for a while before taking him back into the house if you think he may need to relieve again. • If he does relieve again, repeat the Do your business command as he relieves and then praise. • After your puppy relieves is often a good time to play tug with your puppy or let him romp in the yard – supervised, of course! • Walk him back into the house. • Confine or supervise.

Correct GENTLY and APPROPRIATELY if your puppy relieves in the house • Gently leash and collar correct the puppy every time you catch him relieving in the house at the instant he begins to relieve – not after the fact. Watch him so you can be consistent. ¾ If you see it starting to happen (you are supervising him, of course, and you've got his dragline fastened to his collar), quietly and gently, give him a collar correction and take him out quickly to finish relieving. • Remember NEVER correct your puppy for relieving in the house if you didn't see him do it. Only correct him if you catch him in the act of relieving in the house. • Do not scold or hit him. Don’t rub his nose in his accident or give him a verbal correction. • Remember to say Do your business if he starts to finish relieving outside. • Praise him as he completes his business outside.

Clean the soiled area promptly if an accident occurs • If your puppy relieves in the house, clean the area immediately and thoroughly. Dogs have a keen sense of smell. They may be drawn back to the spot by their own scent. • Most grocery, feed stores and pet supply stores have effective cleaning solutions developed to deodorize and prevent staining caused by puppy "accidents."

Teach your puppy not to relieve indiscriminately As well as learning to relieve on command, your puppy also needs to learn not to relieve indiscriminately when he is on leash. Teaching this concept is important because guide dogs must control their relieving while working.

Many otherwise successful guide dogs have been retired for indiscriminate relieving. You start the process of teaching your puppy not to relieve indiscriminately when you begin teaching your puppy to only relieve in the designated relieving spot. Focusing on teaching him to relieve when and where offered prevents the habit of indiscriminate relieving.

Teaching a puppy to refrain from relieving indiscriminately must be dealt with carefully to avoid creating negative patterns that may be difficult to change. It is particularly important that you do not allow your puppy to have an accident while he is on leash without being commanded to do so; instead provide positive successful opportunities to

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-2 11/2008 Relieving relieve in the designated relieving spot. This will pattern the proper behaviors and build the correct relieving habits.

While your puppy is being housebroken, he is learning not to relieve indiscriminately when he is on leash. You begin teaching this concept in two ways. The first way is for you to give clear cues to your pup about when and where it is appropriate to relieve:

• Walk him in the “let’s go” position to the relieving area. • When you reach the designated relieving area stop and give him the release command “O.K.” and cast him out in front of you encouraging him to move in a circular pattern. • Give the command “Do your business” as he circles. • Praise him for a job well done!

Using this step by step process each time you relieve him will give him a clear indication of what you want him to do.

The second way you teach this concept is by making sure that you prevent as many “accidents” as possible by setting your puppy up for success when you take him on an outing or a neighborhood walk.

Avoid inappropriate relieving accidents:

• Plan appropriate socializations based on your puppy’s age. Do not take a puppy on an outing of a duration that necessitates relieving. Plan your outings so that the puppy can return home to relieve. • Ideally the puppy should only be relieved at home, on leash, in the same spot according to its regular biological schedule. For those puppies that have to accompany the raiser to work, they should have one designated relieving area and be taken to that area only to relieve during the workday. • Always fully relieve your puppy before you go for a walk or taking your puppy out to socialize. Never take a “loaded” puppy away from home! • Never use neighborhood walks as a relieving opportunity! This can cause the puppy to develop bad habits very quickly – allowing a puppy to relieve on a walk leads to relieving in harness. • When introducing your puppy to stores and businesses, he should be kept close to the entrance and only allowed in the store for a minute or so. Follow this procedure for several weeks, so that the puppy is never given the chance to relieve himself in a store. • As your pup matures and is able to control himself better, he can be kept inside the store/mall for longer periods but still shouldn’t be taken far from an entrance. • If your puppy does have an accident in a place of business, go back to one minute at the entrance and take time to build up again. Relieving habits form quickly and several accidents in the mall may take months of careful re-training. • Recognize what inappropriate relieving is! A relieving accident occurs any time your puppy indicates a need to relieve without you first offering the opportunity, ideally at a scheduled time in the regular relieving spot.

“Marking”

• To discourage marking behavior, always relieve a male puppy away from vertical objects such as trees, bushes and the sides of buildings. Try to choose level areas without vertical objects for relieving areas. Male puppies that continually try to mark vertical objects without a command should be walked towards bushes, posts and other vertical objects and corrected as they raise their leg. After a few exercises such as this, encourage the puppy to relieve on command in a level area.

What to Do if Your Puppy Relieves Without Permission (for puppies over five months of age)

• If you are in a public place with spectators present and your puppy indicates a need to relieve, give him a verbal correction and place him quickly into a sit for approximately one minute. Then take him home, if possible, to complete relieving. It is not unreasonable to expect your puppy to hold himself for the car ride home or at least to a close, designated relieving area. The time between your puppy indicating a need to relieve, and actually being given the opportunity, will teach him that he must sometimes hold himself. • If you are in a situation, like a neighborhood walk, where correction is possible, you should react dramatically with a more intense verbal correction (as though your pup is about to relieve on a white carpet!) and also give a firm leash correction to disrupt relieving. Your puppy should be placed firmly into a sit for several minutes and then taken home or to the designated relieving area to complete relieving. Your puppy should be praised and played with when it relieves at home or in a designated relieving area. • Even if your puppy is just ‘asking’ to relieve, he should be corrected. Remember, we are training the puppy to relieve on command when offered a relieving opportunity by you - not when he chooses the time and place • Some puppies need to be caught and corrected in the act to impress upon them that they are doing something wrong, just as in housebreaking. • If your puppy is unstoppable in a relieving accident you should ignore him while he completes relieving and determine to be more vigilant in observing your puppy for warning signals in the future.

Many raisers think that it is not an accident if the puppy is not in a building/store, if he pulls to the side or if he is not wearing his jacket. Not so! An accident is any unplanned relieving.

Tips for Preventing Stool Eating Your puppy may pick up, play with or even eat his own feces or that of another pet. This often starts out of boredom, but may soon become a habit. Eating stools (i.e. "coprophagia") is most definitely an undesirable habit!

• Keep the area clean. The fewer opportunities your puppy has to pick up a stool, the fewer chances he will have to practice the habit.

• Watch your puppy when he is in the yard and try to catch him in the act. The dragline is very useful for setting up this type of training. As he investigates a stool and goes to pick it up, leash correct him instantly before he can. • There are various additives that may be recommended for dogs that practice this behavior. Check with your leader and CFR before trying any of these on your puppy. If you have more than one dog, and your puppy eats the feces of other dogs, all the dogs in the household will need to be treated. • All dogs are attracted to, and will eat, cat stools. If they get it out of the litter box, they may become severely ill from ingesting the kitty litter. Prevention includes cleaning the litter box frequently and, of course, supervising your puppy closely to ensure that he cannot get into the litter box.

Contact your leader if your puppy has accidents on walks or outings. Correcting poor relieving habits early can help prevent bigger problems. Avoid creating a pattern that can lead to relieving in harness and prevent your puppy from becoming a guide!

Grooming is important not only for your puppy's health and hygiene, but also to teach him to accept being handled. The earlier you start grooming the better because the longer you wait, the more difficult it will be to get him to calmly accept being handled. Grooming should be started no later than one or two days after he arrives. The necessary supplies are detailed in "2-4 Equipment (and how to use it)" in section 2: Preparing for puppy raising.

Brush your puppy every day

• Groom for short periods, working up to 10-15 minutes a day. • Use the floor or a sturdy table. If you use a table, provide a non-slip surface and do not leave him unattended even for a moment. Keep your hands on his collar at all times to prevent him from falling. • Brush while he is sitting or lying on his side. • Be gentle and include all parts of his body: ears, neck, chest, belly, legs and tail. • Brush with the lay of his hair. • Talk to him gently, calming him. • If he struggles, give a collar correction without saying "no," and praise him when he calms. • The "calming sit" exercise discussed in "6-3 Commands" in section 6: Training techniques will help you with your grooming. • While brushing your puppy, watch for external parasites, areas of the coat that have been chewed or licked, hot spots, other sores or cuts, hair loss, mats or ear tip irritation. • Check unspayed females for abnormal vaginal discharge (a little mucous is normal) or signs of heat (a drop of bright blood will be the first sign, followed by a darker discharge and swelling). • Check ears for any redness, odor or discharge.

Regular paw care is important

• Check pads and in between toes daily for cuts, abrasions or irritations. ¾ When checking pads and between toes, gently but firmly touch each toe and nail with one hand, while steadying the paw with the other hand. This will help teach him to accept having his toenails trimmed. • Trim toenails as needed, usually weekly. Long nails may cause the toes to spread, putting unnecessary stress on the feet and pasterns (wrist joints).

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-3 2/2003 Grooming • Ask your leader to show you how to trim nails. If done incorrectly, it can cause the puppy to be uncomfortable about having his nails trimmed. ¾ If you do accidentally cut into the quick and cause bleeding, DO NOT PANIC. Simply use alum, a styptic powder, or pressure with a tissue on the nail to stop the bleeding.

Ear cleaning can prevent ear infections

Ear care is one of the most commonly overlooked areas in dog grooming. Because of this, many ear conditions requiring veterinary treatment could have been avoided by using proper preventative ear cleaning methods. The most common conditions of the ear that require veterinary treatment are infections (otitis). Either bacteria or yeast that have multiplied to high levels in the ears most commonly cause infections. Each of these problems requires different treatments. Ear mites, which are parasites, are not as commonly found in dogs as they are in pet cats.

Most dogs will let you know when they are experiencing discomfort in the ear. Shaking or tilting of the head, frequent or prolonged scratching of the ears or back of the head, or rubbing the side of the head along the floor are usually indicative of an ear infection or a foreign object in the ear canal such as a tick or a foxtail. Sometimes the only symptom is a bad odor or dark wax.

To avoid unnecessary veterinary treatment and discomfort to our puppies, we ask that you, the puppy raiser, clean the puppy’s ears once weekly with the ear cleansing/drying solution provided in your puppy packet. It is also important to check your puppy’s ears daily when you groom him for any signs of redness, odor, or an increase in wax. If any of these signs are present, contact your leader to determine if your puppy needs to be seen by a veterinarian.

Guide Dogs supplies an ear cleaning/drying solution in the puppy packet that accompanies your pup and asks all raisers to clean their dog’s ears once a week. • Once a week squirt a small amount of ChlorhexiDerm™ flush ear cleaning solution onto a cotton ball so that it becomes “drippy” with the solution. • Using the cotton ball, massage the base and inside of the ear gently for approximately 10 seconds to clean and loosen debris from the ear canal. Be careful not to “plug” the ear canal with cotton or apply pressure into the ear. • Use a dry cotton ball or gauze strip to remove any excess liquid and debris from the ear canal. • Do not apply solution directly into your puppy’s ear canal. • Please DO NOT use a cotton swab as it may only push wax further down the ear canal.

Eyes may also need to be cleaned

• Wipe the face, dabbing at the corners of the eyes, with a water moistened cotton ball. • Some discharge is normal, but watch for excessive discharge. • Do not touch the eye itself, as you may scratch it.

Dogs get plaque on their teeth just like we do! Plaque is made of proteins (from saliva) and bacteria. If the plaque is not removed every day, the bacteria will multiply rapidly and invade the gums around the teeth. Gingivitis, or inflammation of the gums, results. If the plaque is still not removed, the inflammation of the gums will spread to the bone around the teeth and cause bone loss or periodontal disease. Ultimately, the teeth have no bony support and may become loose, or even fall out.

Fortunately, gingivitis is reversible and periodontal disease is preventable! When plaque is removed by tooth brushing, the gums and bone around the teeth will stay healthy. If plaque is not removed, calculus or "tartar" will form when minerals from saliva cause the plaque to harden. Once calculus is present, a professional cleaning is needed to remove it. You can prevent calculus from forming by removing plaque every day with tooth brushing.

If you have never done this before, start by spending a few minutes each day gently handling your puppy’s mouth. As part of your daily puppy handling exercises, lift up his lips and touch the outside of the puppy’s teeth and gums to get him used to this new experience. After several days of doing this, introduce your puppy to the oral cleansing gel following the instructions recommended by our veterinarians.

Never use human toothpaste – it can be harmful and upset your puppy’s stomach.

INSTRUCTIONS: • Put a small amount of oral cleansing gel on a soft-bristled toothbrush (use the one supplied in the puppy’s packet) or on a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger. • The paste should be pressed down into the bristles, so the pet doesn't lick it off the brush. Start by brushing just a few teeth at a time. • Holding the brush head at a 45-degree angle to the gum line, gently brush in circular strokes from the gum line to the tip of each tooth. • Only clean the outside surfaces of your puppy’s teeth and gums. Day-by-day, slowly work towards the back of the mouth, until your puppy is comfortable and will allow you to lift his lips and hold his head steady for several minutes. • Please be careful to not let your puppy bite your finger or toothbrush while brushing his teeth. • We recommend that you clean your puppy’s teeth once or twice weekly to prevent gum, tooth and bone disease and the bad breath that follows.

Bathing your pup

• Do not bathe your puppy more often than every six weeks or so unless he is unusually dirty. Frequent baths can harm your puppy's coat and skin. • As all new experiences, introduce bathing slowly to avoid frightening your pup. • Keep your puppy’s collar on while you are bathing him. • Always put a towel or rubber mat in the bottom of the tub to prevent slipping. If he slips in the tub, your puppy may become very frightened of being bathed.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-3 2/2003 Grooming • Check to make sure that the water is not too hot. It should be comfortable for your hand, but not too cold. • Keep water out of his ears. You can do this by putting a cotton ball in each ear, but don’t push them in too far and remember to take them out! • Keep soap out of his eyes. • Do not use human shampoo. Purchase shampoo made just for dogs as it is balanced for the pH of his coat. • Be sure to thoroughly rinse out the shampoo, as it will cause skin irritation if it is left in the coat. • When you are done, you can “squeeze” water out of his coat. While he is still in the tub, let the puppy shake off most of the water and then towel him dry. • If you wish to use a blow dryer on your puppy, please introduce it carefully. ¾ Turn it on and off a few times away from the puppy before bringing it near him. ¾ When you turn it on near the puppy, keep the airflow directed away from him until he appears comfortable with the noise. ¾ Start the airflow on his legs and gradually work it up his body. ¾ NEVER aim a blow dryer at your puppy's face. It is very uncomfortable and may cause him to become very frightened or anxious about blow dryers. ¾ Hold the hair dryer no closer to the dog than 12-18 inches. • As an alternative to bathing, a dog can be wiped down with a damp towel.

Dogs are social grooming animals. Grooming not only keeps your dog healthy and clean, it also helps your puppy bond to you. Remember to praise him often when he behaves appropriately.

3-4 EXERCISE AND PLAY

Daily exercise and play are as important as nutrition, grooming or other activities in raising a healthy, well-behaved Guide Dog puppy. Guide Dogs are active animals. Having a trim, well-muscled body will make his guidework training easier because he may be required to walk many miles in a day. Exercise and play will also help your pup learn to bond and thoroughly enjoy the time you spend with him.

Puppies may indicate their need for more exercise by displaying: • Excessive excitability • Non-stop activity • Persistent mouthing • Running through the house and bouncing off furniture

Get your pup in shape by starting early on a regular program of exercise and play. Use the following guidelines to help your pup avoid injuries, behavior problems or overheating when exercising.

Watch for signs that your puppy may be getting too tired: • Heavy panting • Heavy breathing • Slowness • Attempts to lie down

Play and exercise appropriately • Play and exercise - which includes running and romping - should occur outside in a fenced area or on a long-line or Flexi-lead® if the area is not fenced. It's okay for your pup to run, but you should not chase him. Indoor play should be kept low-key by encouraging the puppy to play with his toys. • Do not permit or encourage wrestling, roughhousing, chase games or racing through the house (use your dragline to stop him). • Walking on-leash, running in a fenced yard, swimming on a line in a safe environment and Guide Dog approved types of play (interactive play, tug and hide-and-seek) are all good forms of exercise. • Please do not jog with your puppy. Many joggers cannot accurately gauge their puppies' tolerance for exercise and may inadvertently damage their young, growing joints.

Exercise and play in a safe manner • Remember that your puppy must be in an enclosed area or on-leash at all times. • The amount of exercise should be appropriate for your puppy's age. Do not push a young puppy too hard. • Take into account your puppy's physical condition. A puppy that's out of shape should not be expected to overexert himself. • Learn your pup's energy level. Different dogs have different exercise needs.

Choose the right times for exercise and play. Avoid hard play and excessive exercise directly after mealtimes. Be cautious of the weather conditions, particularly heat. DOGS ARE MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO OVERHEATING THAN HUMANS. Provide water during and after exercise and play. Offer small amounts of water frequently when your puppy is hot after exercise or hard play. If you allow him to gulp down large amounts of water at one time when he is hot, he may vomit the water back up. To help keep him cool, you may also want to gently wet your puppy down with a hose in the summer before exercising him.

Teach your puppy to play interactively with you (without using a toy)

Play is a crucial element in developing a well-balanced happy puppy. Puppies learn about their world and how to interact with a human being through play. It is therefore important that you teach your puppy how to play appropriately. He needs to learn how to play gently and in a controlled manner, to play with you using a toy and also how to play with you when there is no toy present.

Appropriate play can be used to entertain the pup when he becomes bored, to mildly exercise him and to build his trust and self-control. Play can also be a great stress reliever. Puppies who have learned how to play appropriately and interactively (with you, but without using a toy) will have a great advantage when they enter training and when they go on to become guides. Their partner will be able to help them relieve any stress they may be feeling by initiating play even when a toy is not present.

Use these general rules when playing with your puppy • Teach your puppy to play "interactively" (WITHOUT a toy) with you as well as teaching him such games as tug and hide-and-seek. • Frequently play with your puppy on leash. • Provide only Guide Dog approved toys for your puppy. • Do not use discarded human clothing or linens when playing with your puppy. • Do not play retrieve games with balls, sticks, frisbees or stones. • Refrain from wrestling or rough housing with your puppy. It will teach him a behavior that is not appropriate and that he may attempt with strangers or children. • Do not play chase or keep away.

To play interactively with your puppy: • start on leash • stand, sit or kneel on the floor • encourage the puppy to push back, dance or dart, be happy • encourage the puppy to play by using an enticing tone of voice and light, playful touches

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-4 2/2003 Exercise & Play • stop play by using the That's enough command and enforcing it with a leash and collar correction followed by an enforced Sit command if the puppy still wants to continue playing after you have told him to stop. • to prevent the puppy from getting out of control, start and stop play when you want to, not when your puppy wants to start or stop.

Interactive play should not include: • roughhousing • wrestling • the puppy chasing you or you chasing the puppy • holding the puppy down on the ground or in the "alpha roll position" • "pounding" or slapping vigorously on the puppy • ear pulling

When you and your puppy play, do not encourage or permit your puppy to: • become excessively excited • vocalize • mouth or grab at you or your clothing • snap • bark • leap up onto you or hard against you • race behind you • mount you or objects

When playing interactively, be sure to use an encouraging, but not loud, tone of voice and only gentle pushing or pats.

Controlling play with your puppy

Even when playing, be a leader and use the rules for controlling play.

Controlling play will help teach your puppy self-control It is important for you to teach a Guide Dog puppy how to play carefully with people. You do that by controlling: • who initiates play • when a puppy gets to play • how he plays • the level and intensity of play • who ends the game

When you initiate and control play, you assert yourself as the pack leader. When you assert yourself as the pack leader, it is easier to keep your puppy calm.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-4 2/2003 Exercise & Play Control when play starts and stops • Start play at a time convenient for you. • Do not give in to your puppy's attempts to get you to play when he's excited or when he brings his toys to you. • Start play with your puppy at a time when he does not expect the invitation. • Stop play when you desire and before the puppy is ready to stop.

Control the intensity of the game • Remember to be an example. When you see him becoming overly excited, STOP THE GAME. • Play with the puppy at a controlled level. Do not intensify the play or let the puppy escalate the play into a frenzy.

Make sure he stops playing when you are ready to stop • To stop play, tell the puppy That's enough in a calm, firm voice and then use a leash and collar correction (your puppy should be on a leash or dragline) if he doesn't stop. ¾ Highly excitable puppies may need to be made to sit and stay beside you for a minute or so until they calm down. This will help them achieve self-control. • If a toy is used, take it away, praising the puppy as he releases the toy. Then place the toy in a place out of the puppy's reach (such as on the top of the refrigerator). • Correct your puppy if he pesters you to continue play. Then use a command such as Sit and make him do it. • Correct the puppy if he jumps against the refrigerator in an attempt to get the toy. • Quietly and calmly praise the puppy when he calms. • Leave the toy where it is until you initiate play the next time.

Tug game procedures

Tug can be a very fun, interactive game to play with your pup. When taught properly and played within the guidelines given below, it does not promote aggressive behavior. As with anything, moderation is the best policy.

Approved tug toys are listed in the “Puppy toy and play policies” in the Policies, forms and resources section at the end of this manual. Do not leave tug toys out for your puppy to chew on!

When playing, keep the tug toy down at dog level. This will help discourage jumping up to get the toy and possibly missing and getting your hand instead.

"Play growling" is okay but watch the body language and intensity of play. With any sign of hackling (hair rising along the back of the neck or down to the tail), high intensity, reckless biting, or other inappropriate accelerations, give a calm leash correction and stop the game. Put the toy aside while you do some calming exercises and/or obedience work with the pup.

Do not play "helicopter dog" (swing the dog around while he is holding the toy). This is unsafe for the puppy and may cause injury!

• You should initiate the game. Don't let the pup dictate to you. • You choose when to stop the game; don't let him run off with the toy. • The tug toy should be put away when done, do not leave it on the floor. • The tug game should be taught on-leash so that you can control inappropriate behaviors and actions of the pup. • Leash correct for: ¾ jumping at or on you ¾ putting feet on you ¾ mouthing your hand or clothing • Practice starting and stopping the game once or twice per session. When you stop the play, use the That’s enough command (see “6-3 Commands” in section 6: Training techniques) and praise the puppy when he stops playing on command. • Leash correct if he tries to continue the game after you have stopped it. • Don't hide the toy when you stop, but teach him to behave when the toy is within his sight.

Pointers from the veterinarian • Toys that encourage interaction with your puppy, such as rings and pull toys are best. Offer only approved toys that won't come apart or break off in tiny pieces that could choke your dog (see the Policies, forms and resources section for the “Puppy toy and play policy”). Never allow your puppy to chew off and swallow pieces of rubber tug toys. Ingestion of rubber can damage the puppy's liver or block his intestines.

Hide-and-seek game procedures

This exercise teaches the puppy to come to his handler even when the pup cannot see the handler. It should be taught, at first, on-leash. The first part of the exercise is identical to the "two handler come" exercise, which is outlined in “6-3 Commands” in section 6: Training techniques. • After completing the “two handler come” exercise, the next step is for you to step just around a doorway or corner. Then call the puppy. For the first time or two, while the puppy is learning that you are close by even though he can't see you, step into sight and go up to the puppy if he does not immediately come to you. Tell your puppy to Come again, taking hold of his collar and backing up. Praise and use a happy tone as you bring him toward you. • As he is doing this recall, back up until you are standing in the spot where you originally called the puppy. Take hold of his collar just as you do when practicing a normal recall and then praise copiously. • Start over and practice the sequence until the puppy figures out that even though he can't see you, you are still there. • After the puppy can successfully come a short distance even though he can't see you, trade off with the other handler and have them go just around the corner.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-4 2/2003 Exercise & Play • When the puppy responds promptly when called even though he can't see you, begin gradually increasing the distance and working in different areas. • Remember to only work this exercise in safely enclosed areas such as inside your house or in a safely fenced area. • If your puppy sometimes gets upset when you leave him or trade him off, you should only practice this exercise a few times. This will help the puppy avoid becoming too focused on you. • If the puppy becomes overly excited and races indiscriminately throughout the exercise, discontinue play.

Guide Dogs public access for puppies

State laws vary according to granting public access to guide dog puppies. Regardless of state law, and in accordance with Guide Dogs for the Blind policy, Guide Dog puppies may only have access to public or private places where they are granted willing admittance or inclusion by the proprietor, manager or staff of the business, facility or service.

Guide Dogs will not lobby or otherwise attempt to achieve access for puppies in any setting where the puppies are not welcome. Raisers and leaders may not demand, coerce, lobby, argue, litigate or otherwise attempt to force issues of access for Guide Dog puppies.

Transportation of program and career change dogs

To ensure the safety and positive public image of Guide Dog puppies, staff and volunteers, Guide Dogs requires that: • Regardless of the means of transportation, Guide Dog staff and volunteers must make every effort to ensure that a program dog travels as safely as possible. • Puppies under the age of five months may not be transported within an airline cabin except by Guide Dog staff. • Puppies with inappropriate temperament or behavior may not be transported within an airline cabin. • All puppies transported within an airline cabin must be individually pre-approved by the supervising CFR. • No youth may transport a puppy within the cabin of an airplane without an adult Guide Dogs-trained handler in attendance. • Raisers and leaders may not demand, coerce, lobby, argue, litigate or otherwise attempt to force issues of access for any puppy denied access to any means of public or private transportation. • Career change dogs may not ride within the cabin of an airline and may not access other means of public or private transportation made available specifically to program-active dogs either by law or by the courtesy of transporter. • Career change dogs may never wear a guide dog harness or puppy coat to gain access to a means of transportation. • A Guide Dog puppy causing a disturbance on public transportation must exit that transportation provider at the first available opportunity. • Guide Dog puppies may not be left unattended in a vehicle. • Volunteers transporting a Guide Dog puppy out-of-state or on a trip longer than one week’s time must receive approval from their CFR.

These guidelines have been developed to ensure the comfort and safety of the raisers, puppies and other passengers. Please always remember that we have no legal right to transport our puppies in the cabin of airplanes. We are being granted that access as a privilege from individual airlines that wish to voluntarily do so. Different airline staff may interpret airline policy differently. You may be denied access at any time and must

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-5 2/2003 Trains, Planes & Autos willingly comply with the instructions of the airline employee that you are communicating with. Please be courteous when interacting with airline personnel or other passengers.

Community Field Representatives must be consulted before any puppy flies. CFR’s have full and final authority to grant, limit or deny a puppy's flying. Please always remember that puppy-sitting is advantageous to most puppies and is a viable alternative to taking a puppy on a trip. Raisers are encouraged to discuss this option with their leaders.

Guide Dogs will only pay for any freight charges, excessive baggage charges or health certificates for flights that are requested by Guide Dogs. Any transportation of a puppy by a raiser, as part of a business or pleasure trip, is the complete financial responsibility of the raiser as is the kenneling of any puppy whose raisers are gone for similar reasons. All dogs being flown are required, by law, to have a current health certificate and rabies certificate signed by a licensed veterinarian. Puppies below the age of 20 weeks, and all other Guide Dog puppies that show evidence of behavioral or medical conditions that might affect their ability to behave appropriately during an airplane trip, must be flown as freight or excess baggage (with advance permission from the airlines and the approval of their CFR only).

We thank you for following the guidelines listed above. In doing so, you are supporting our mission and creating a safer environment for the puppies. Happy travels!

Traveling with and without your puppy

Once your puppy has adapted to you, your family, and the guidelines you set for him, he may be able to accompany you on trips if your leader feels that he is mature enough to deal well with travel. CFRs must approve all puppies flown within the cabin of an airplane or long trips by car or any other means. Generally raisers with mature, well- controlled, healthy puppies may take them on trips within the U.S. and Canada. Due to the health risks involved, please do not take your Guide Dog puppy with you if you are planning a trip to Mexico or South America.

The experience of taking your puppy on a trip will benefit him later as a Guide Dog, when he is traveling with his blind partner.

Guidelines • Please notify your leader if you would like to take your puppy with you on your vacation. Your leader will consult with your CFR to determine if your puppy is ready for travel. • If your leader or CFR feels that your Guide Dog puppy should not accompany you on your trip, please arrange for a puppy-sitter or plan to board your puppy at your expense (if he is old enough). If your puppy cannot go on vacation with you, do not leave him at home unattended. ¾ Puppy-sitters should be approved by your leader and should receive instruction on Guide Dog puppy management before you leave the puppy in their care. ¾ Always tell your leader with whom you have arranged care for your puppy, making sure that you provide the sitter's name, address and phone number.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-5 2/2003 Trains, Planes & Autos ¾ Never leave your pup with an inexperienced person who has not received instruction on Guide Dog puppy management. ¾ Puppies below the age of 16 weeks should not be boarded in a commercial kennel if at all possible. If you must leave him in a commercial kennel, carefully check it out in advance to be sure it's safe and clean. Ask your leader for care suggestions. • Please carefully consider the appropriateness of settings you take your puppy to. Amusement parks, large fairs, festivals and other large, noisy events can overwhelm him. (Please reference the “Puppy socialization guide” in “6-2: Socialization”). Make sure that the weather is appropriate and that you have a means to provide him relief from heat or cold or from over stimulation. • On trips, avoid leaving your puppy unattended while you go out. If you must leave him crated, leave him only for short periods in a crate and in an environment where he is secure and comfortable. ¾ Be sure he's in a safe temperature. ¾ Do not leave him if he is likely to disturb others with crying and barking. ¾ Do not leave him unattended in a vehicle. He can be stolen or overheat. • Whenever possible, take a crate along for your puppy. ¾ A crate will give your puppy a familiar time-out location when he becomes restless from stressful or boring travel times. ¾ A crate will provide your puppy a secure location where he cannot cause destruction in your hotel room. • Have your puppy follow all the same rules he does at home. Vacations with your puppy should be a learning experience for him. • Give your puppy plenty of breaks for relieving and drinking water. Teach your puppy to relieve on a variety of appropriate surfaces.

Pointers from the veterinarian • When vacationing with your dog, be sure to pack for him! Always bring along your dog's medical history, proof of vaccinations, a leash and clean- up kit, medications, food and grooming supplies. • It is wise to contact park administration before bringing your dog on a camping trip. Many parks require rabies vaccinations within the past year. Some do not allow dogs at all. • When camping with your dog, bring enough food for the entire trip. Changes in diet can disrupt digestion. If at all possible, pack the water your puppy is used to drinking or buy bottled water. A change in water can cause diarrhea. • Do not assume your puppy will be welcome everywhere. Call ahead and have alternative plans if your puppy is refused access. Raisers may never demand access for their puppy regardless of any laws and are to take their puppies only where they are welcome.

Transporting Guide Dog puppies in vehicles To have a puppy enter a vehicle, begin by having the puppy be patient for a moment while the door is held open. As long as the pup is being patient, allow it to get in the car with the release word OK.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-5 2/2003 Trains, Planes & Autos If sitting in a front seat with very little floor space, you can leave your right leg out and then encourage the puppy to enter. You may use the word Kennel, which a puppy should interpret as entering any confined space (a crate, a car, under a desk, etc.). Always make sure the tail and feet are inside before closing the door.

For additional advice on acclimating puppies to the vehicles sounds and motion, see “6- 2 Socialization” in section 6: Training techniques.

We do not recommend allowing pups on seats, but there are some cars that give no option due to floor space or other factors, including front seat airbags. If you have no choice but to allow the puppy on a seat, keep the pup in one spot, preferably on the rear seat and don't allow him to move around. If riding in someone else's car, it would be courteous to provide a large towel or sheet to cover the spot to help keep the seat clean.

You may have heard controversy over the danger to children and animals with some passenger side airbags. In some incidences, accidents triggering these airbags have injured and even killed small children and animals. Although we do not have knowledge of any Guide Dog puppies or guides ever being injured, we advise having puppies that ride in cars that have front seat passenger airbags to lay on the back seat floorboards, the back seat if there is not adequate room on the backseat floorboards, or on tie-down on the passenger floor at a level which will be below an activated airbag.

There are a variety of car seat restraints for dogs on the market. We have found limited evidence of the complete testing of any of these devices. Devices are most often tested for fabric strength not animal injury prevention. Improperly designed models may have the potential to cause injury to a dog or puppy. Do not use car seat restraints for your Guide Dog puppy.

The pup can ride in the back of a station wagon or hatchback, but they should remain in one spot and be well behaved. If the surface is slick, you need to provide a non-slick surface such as a rubber-backed carpet or rubber mat for the pup to ride on. Puppies can become worried if they slide around and cannot get any traction to brace themselves. Puppies can develop a fear of car riding, caused by sliding around.

The safest place for puppies to ride in cars is in a secured crate if one will fit in the back seat or a cargo area.

We do not recommend having puppies travel in the back of open pickup trucks; if you must transport the pup in the back of an open pickup truck, use a safely secured kennel crate. Try to avoid this method of transportation if at all possible; being so closely exposed to traffic can frighten puppies.

Puppies shall not ride unconfined in the back of trucks. Cross-tying them is not an acceptable option. Many states now have laws restricting dogs loose in pickup trucks due to potential accidents and the risk to the dogs’ life.

The primary rule in dog transportation is to use common sense. Evaluate the situation utilizing the guidelines above and select a safe, manageable option. The primary goals are safety and teaching the puppy to calmly remain where you have placed him. A puppy or

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 3: Caring for your puppy Section 3-5 2/2003 Trains, Planes & Autos dog that is not trusted to remain calm in all circumstances should be on tie-down or crated while in a vehicle. If you are transporting a potentially unruly or otherwise distracting puppy, always have a passenger aboard to control him.

Also remember that a common cause of death to dogs is being left unattended in cars on hot, or even just warm, days. Guide Dog puppies may not be left alone in vehicles regardless of the weather.

Lost puppy procedures

There are few situations more frightening than losing your puppy. In our experience, many puppies are lost when being transported, so be particularly careful to supervise your pup during travel. Here are some general guidelines:

Preventive steps: • Never take the Guide Dog collar and tag off your puppy. • Make sure your yard is escape-proof. • When your puppy is in the house, make sure all doors are kept closed to prevent escape. • Teach your puppy not to bolt through doors. • Do not let your puppy off-leash outdoors in unfenced areas.

Steps to follow when your puppy is lost: • Immediately call Guide Dogs for the Blind at (800) 295-4050. If you are calling after business hours, follow the voice prompts to reach the kennel staff. If someone has found your puppy, chances are they will call the (800) line located on your puppy’s identification tag. • Immediately call your leader. • Start searching immediately. • Recruit other club members to help search. Get a detailed map of the area and organize search teams by area. • Place an advertisement in your local paper. • Put signs with photos on local telephone poles, in stores, at veterinary clinics, etc. and on vehicles in the neighborhood. • Go to your local animal shelter, rather than calling. The shelter receptionist may not be aware that your puppy is there. • Be very accurate in giving any descriptions of your puppy (show photos if possible). • When talking to people, stress that the lost dog is a Guide Dog puppy. • Try to generate a "Lost Guide Dog" human-interest story from your local newspaper or other media. • Drive around the neighborhood as often as possible. • Check with neighborhood children. They may be aware of a new dog in the neighborhood. • Your puppy may be attracted to places where people or children gather, so check at schools or shopping centers.

Don't get discouraged. Keep looking!

Payment of veterinary expenses

Puppy Raising veterinary partner program As veterinary care partners, raisers are required to participate in their dogs’ health care management. Essential means of doing this are maintaining diet, exercise and grooming standards; communicating effectively with their leaders and CFRs; and following the instructions of their community veterinarians and Guide Dog staff veterinarians.

Please refer to the “Veterinary Care Orientation Package” included in your puppy packet for the details of our veterinary partner program.

Emergency care should be pre-authorized when possible; but if your puppy’s life is at stake, please concentrate on getting the care needed to stabilize the puppy’s condition and contact our veterinarians as soon as possible once the puppy is stabilized.

Guide Dogs provides approved heartworm prevention and flea products. Spaying and neutering must be approved in writing prior to the procedure. Raisers will be notified when it is acceptable.

We encourage raisers, leaders, and CFRs to work cooperatively, identifying veterinarians who offer quality service, cost savings, and proactive communications with our clinics.

Please direct any reimbursement questions to our Vet Bill Hotline at (800) 295-4050 ext. 4117 or (415) 492-4117.

Use the picture and terminology provided below when discussing your puppy with your veterinarian, your leader or Guide Dogs’ staff. Correct use of terminology helps everyone understand what is being described.

1. Head 7. Thigh 13. Feet 2. Neck 8. Stifle 14. Chest 3. Withers 9. Hock 15. Shoulder 4. Back 10. Loin 16. Bite/Teeth 5. Croup 11. Brisket 6. Tail 12. Pastern

4-2 EMERGENCIES

In the event of an emergency, Guide Dogs authorizes you to get stabilizing treatment for your puppy even if you are unable to contact your leader or a Guide Dog employee. As soon as your puppy's condition has been stabilized, please ask your veterinarian to contact the veterinary staff at Guide Dogs before providing further care. You should also immediately notify your leader who will, in turn, notify your area CFR.

In cases of more involved or prolonged care, Guide Dog puppies may, at times, be brought into one of the Guide Dog facilities for veterinary care. These full-service diagnostic and surgical facilities are staffed seven days a week.

Guide Dog employees are available 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Monday through Saturday to answer questions from your veterinarian. Make sure that you tell your veterinarian that your puppy is a Guide Dog puppy and request that he communicates first with our veterinary staff before providing any non-routine care.

If your veterinarian recommends that a specialist see your Guide Dog puppy, please do not schedule an appointment until your veterinarian first has consulted with the veterinary staff of Guide Dogs. All specialist fees must be pre-approved by Guide Dogs to be eligible for reimbursement to the raiser or veterinarian providing services.

Emergencies and first aid procedures Emergencies happen. Because they are unexpected, the people and animals involved tend to become frightened or overly excited. The first and foremost guideline in an emergency is: REMAIN CALM. Your brain and common sense are your best resources in an emergency. Make a conscious effort to stop and calm yourself for a few seconds before acting. This will enable you to calm and assist your puppy more effectively.

In an emergency, before you take your puppy to the veterinarian's office, call ahead to ensure the doctor will be available and to give the staff adequate time to prepare for your arrival. Learn the route to the emergency hospital in advance if it is a different facility from your veterinarian's hospital.

Bee stings/insect reactions If visible, remove the stinger with tweezers. Use cool compresses to the area. Notify your veterinarian and transport your puppy immediately if he shows signs of an allergic reaction, such as difficulty breathing, hives or swollen facial features.

Bleeding Apply direct pressure on the wound with gauze or a clean cloth. Add additional gauze or cloth if blood soaks through the first layer (but do not remove the first layer). Keep the pressure steady. Transport your pup to the veterinarian.

Choking If the puppy is conscious, keep him calm and transport him to the veterinarian. If the pup is unconscious, open his mouth and check the mouth/throat for any obstructions.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 4: Health care Section 4-2 2/2003 Emergencies Extend the head and neck, then pull the tongue forward. Use a washcloth to hold on to the tongue and avoid being accidentally bitten.

Diarrhea Diarrhea can be a common problem with puppies, and the cause can be difficult to determine. Your puppy may have swallowed garbage or eaten rich food, or bacteria or an infectious virus could be the cause. There is no need to worry unless your puppy shows other signs of illness or the condition continues for more than two days.

Regardless of the cause, the treatment is the same: feed your puppy absolutely nothing for the first 12 hours (for a young puppy), or 24 hours for an older puppy (8 months or more) after a diarrhea attack occurs. The puppy should still be provided with water as long as he isn't vomiting. You can also give him Pepto-Bismol™ (liquid - one to two tablespoons, two to four times a day, or tablets in the adult dosage).

When you begin feeding your puppy again, prepare a bland diet of cooked (not instant), white rice and cottage cheese. The meal should be 1 part cottage cheese to 3 parts rice. Keep your puppy on this diet with plenty of fresh water for one or two days, then over the next four or five days gradually resume his normal diet.

When to contact your veterinarian: • if the puppy's temperature goes above 103 degrees • if vomiting accompanies the diarrhea for more than half a day • if quite a bit of blood appears in the stool • if the diarrhea persists more than two days • if your puppy cannot keep water down • if your puppy is markedly depressed

Heat stroke Begin cooling by running tap water over the puppy's body and legs. Do not use cold water or ice. Call the veterinarian and transport your pup immediately.

Vomiting Vomiting may be a sign that your puppy has swallowed something that doesn't agree with him, such as grass, cigarette butts, leaves and twigs or garbage. Sometimes puppies will retch and bring up a yellowish substance. This is fairly normal and a sign that something did not quite agree with him.

If he vomits continually or for more than three hours, vomits blood or seems very depressed, contact your leader or veterinarian. Withhold food and all oral medications until his system has settled down. When you clean up the mess, check it for foreign material. This may give you a clue as to what he chewed or swallowed, and if any action is needed. Save the remains of any chewed package material or plants for poison control information.

Seizures While seizures can be very frightening to observe, they are rarely damaging. If your puppy begins to have a seizure, do not attempt to interfere or to touch him. Supervise

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 4: Health care Section 4-2 2/2003 Emergencies him without handling him until the seizure passes. Stay calm and call the veterinarian for further instructions. Make sure the puppy cannot fall down stairs or into water.

Poisoning Contact the veterinarian immediately. Stay calm and be prepared with answers about the type of poison, the amount ingested, when the poisoning occurred and any current symptoms. Transport the pup to the vet, if requested, and bring the poison's original container.

Wounds Superficial wounds should be cleaned by gently washing with soap and water, rinsing well, removing all debris, dirt, etc. Use an antibiotic ointment.

Deep wounds need to have bleeding controlled. Contact the veterinarian and protect the wound with a clean, damp compress while transporting.

Keeping your puppy healthy The most effective way to fight health problems is by preventing them from developing in the first place. Through careful supervision you can avoid situations where your pup could swallow poisons or foreign objects. You can keep your pup from getting hit by a car by keeping him on-leash or under control. Guard your pup against illness by taking precautions to keep him healthy. Prevention works much better than any treatment. Be sure to listen to advice from your veterinarian. PROPER CARE OF YOUR PUP IS IMPORTANT!

Immediately report these observations to your leader: • Excessive urination, production of only small amounts of urine, production of unusually colored (dark, cloudy, bloody) or excessively smelly urine, urinary incontinence while sleeping, or dribbling of urine. • Difficulty "housebreaking" your puppy • Vaginal discharge, other than a yellow to white mucous, which could signify vaginitis. Vaginitis is considered common. If not symptomatic, just keep the area clean with a baby wipe. • Diarrhea, unusual stool quality, parasites in/on stool • Poor food or water intake • Vomiting • External parasites: fleas, ticks, lice • Hair loss, bald spots or excessive shedding • "Hot spots", sores or cuts • Lumps in the skin • Injuries or accidents • Lameness of any kind • Listlessness or lack of energy • Squinting, swollen, red or runny eyes • Persistent shaking or tilting of head • Runny nose with colored discharge • Ears that are red, have a discharge or odor • Coughing

If you would like more first aid information, a good reference is: First Aid, Emergency Care for Dogs and Cats Roger W. Gfeller, DVM; Michael Thomas, DVM Publisher: Pet Care Books, July 1994 ISBN: 0964463709

• Make sure that your puppy receives all of the required vaccinations from your veterinarian at the required times - in accordance with the vaccination schedule provided to you by Guide Dogs for the Blind. • Give your puppy his heartworm medication every month on schedule. • Use the flea and tick control products provided by Guide Dogs and maintain your other pets and your grounds on a parasite control program. • Give only the correct dosages of medications prescribed by your veterinarian for your puppy. • Use only veterinarian-approved pesticides and only at the prescribed dosages. • Prevent infectious diseases by not exposing young puppies to areas that are visited by many dogs.

Pointers from the veterinarian The best veterinary advice regarding injury and illness is: "Use common sense". The second best advice is: "Let the experts do it." If there is any doubt, call your leader; call your CFR if you cannot reach your leader, or call your veterinarian. By all means, do not play doctor and issue your own remedies. Do not use medication previously prescribed without consulting your vet. Give only medications that are prescribed for that puppy by a veterinarian and only in the prescribed dosages.

Every puppy needs a scheduled series of vaccinations (shots). The shots your puppy has already received are written on the front page of his Project Record. Also noted are the shots he still requires and the dates he needs to receive them.

It is very important that you follow this schedule closely. Even if your veterinarian suggests a different schedule, please insist that the Guide Dog schedule is followed. We have determined it to be the most effective schedule for our purposes.

Guide Dog puppies leave our kennels having been given the following vaccinations:

• 3 weeks - Nemex • 5 weeks - DA2PP, Intranasal bordatella, Nemex • 8 weeks - DA2PP, Heartgard Plus

When they receive a Guide Dog puppy, raisers are instructed to continue with the following vaccination schedule:

12 weeks - DA2PP 16 weeks - DA2PP, Rabies

Do not administer coronavirus vaccine, leptospirosis bacterin or Lyme's disease vaccine. If your veterinarian insists on the administration of one of the vaccinations, please advise him not to give the injection and to call the GDB Clinic.

Your puppy's first adult Rabies and DA2PP vaccination boosters will be due at approximately 16 months of age. If these boosters are due more than a month prior to your puppy's recall date, have the vaccinations administered by your local veterinarian.

It is critical that we receive documentation of any booster vaccines that your puppy receives prior to recall.

The GDB Vet Clinic is to be notified in the event that a puppy has an allergic reaction to a vaccination. Raisers may ask to save the vials that their puppy’s vaccination originated from or will ask to write down the following information: brand of vaccine (i.e. Ft. Dodge), components (i.e. distemper, adenovirus, parainfluenza, parvo virus) and the lot number.

Mark the dates for your puppy's shots on your calendar as a reminder. Also, let your leader know your puppy's shot schedule (you may want to copy the front of your Project Record for your leader).

Pointers from the veterinarian Here are a few tips on giving medication: • Pills: Hold the puppy's head back, place the pill on the back of the tongue, gently push the pill back, and hold his mouth closed until he swallows. When that happens, he usually will lick his nose. • Liquid: Hold the puppy's head up slightly and pull away the side of the lower lip corner to make a pocket. Pour the liquid into this pocket and the puppy will instinctively swallow. • Be gentle, calm and soothing. • Be sure to praise your puppy when you finish. • Please call your leader if you are having trouble.

4-4 FEMALES IN SEASON

The reproductive cycle of ovulation in dogs is identified as being "in-season" or "in-heat." During this period female dogs ovulate, generating eggs. In-season dogs are capable of being bred by male dogs, fertilizing the eggs and producing puppies. Spayed dogs do not come into season.

The foremost rule to always remember is that exceptions to timing, patterns, and identifying markers are frequent within individual dogs and between dogs. Raisers and leaders should always be vigilant in watching for signs of the dogs that they raise coming into, remaining, or perhaps re-entering seasons (see below).

Generally, dogs come into season every six months beginning some time after six months of age. Dogs, though, may come into season as early as 4 months of age or as late as a year or more. Cycles may run like clockwork every six months or they may happen more or less frequently. Dogs may even start a season, appear to go out-of-season, and start immediately again. This pattern is often referred to as a "split season." One can see the need for raisers and leaders to continually monitor dogs and not to trust any pattern to apply to individual dogs. Failing to properly identify the cycle of an individual dog may lead to an accidental breeding.

A standard season runs for approximately 21 days. The season may be preceded by a slight swelling of the dog's vulva. The season begins with a bright or dark red discharge from the dog's vulva. The discharge initially may be no more than a drop. Many females keep themselves very clean, and there may be no visible blood around the vulvar area. As the season progresses through the first week or so, the discharge generally increases and then decreases in volume and color. The vulva can be very enlarged and turgid during the first week, and then begins to soften. Some dogs may have a very heavy discharge and swelling; others may show lesser signs. Again, diligence in monitoring all dogs as individuals is required.

After being in-season for approximately seven to ten days, the amount and color of the discharge will lighten. The swelling will also lessen. In some dogs the reduction of swelling and discharge may be so significant that the dog appears to be out of season. This is not the case. The dog is actually entering her most fertile period when a male can inseminate her! Extra caution is needed. It is also important to note that sperm can be viable and capable of impregnating an estrus female dog for as long as 7 days following a single mating. Therefore, one inattentive moment can lead to an unwanted pregnancy.

As the days pass and the swelling and discharge continue to lighten, the dog is still breedable. Some dogs are capable of conceiving beyond the twentieth day of season. Raisers must continually be cautious, following our guidelines for at least 28 days, and not lessening the required supervision until released by their leader.

Sometimes a female may go through what is known as a “silent heat.” This is when the usual physical signs of the heat cycle, the swelling and the bleeding, are not present. You may still see behavioral changes, including an increased interest from or with other dogs.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 4: Health care Section 4-4 2/2003 Females in Season Other behavioral indicators may or may not be present. During and in the time surrounding a dog’s season, there may be a change in overall activity levels, with the female becoming much more active and “busy.” The change in behaviors may include flagging (raising the tail), play bowing or tipping forward, increased barking or whining, inability to settle or relax, and becoming more destructive. There may be an increase in level of thirst or appetite, and a change in elimination habits. The female may seem nervous or more high-strung. These behavioral changes can begin to occur up to three or four weeks before the physical signs of the heat cycle. More commonly, they occur in the week before the physical signs begin. In some females, there may be no noticeable change in behaviors at all. In others, just one or two of those listed. Also, behavioral changes do not always indicate the onset of the heat cycle. At the beginning of her cycle, the female may become less tolerant of other dogs approaching or sniffing her. She may lift her lip, growl, hackle, or even snap at the other dog. Instead of wagging her tail when other dogs sniff her rear, she may tuck it tightly straight down against her body. This does not mean she is becoming aggressive. It is a normal behavioral change. She will be her friendly self once again when her cycle is over. If you suspect a silent heat cycle, notify your CFR through your leader.

Occasionally, towards the end of the heat cycle or in the weeks following it, the increase in hormone levels may cause the mammary glands to become active and to produce milk. Some people call this a “false pregnancy.” This is not considered abnormal; but again, please notify your CFR through your leader.

Any sign of recurring discharge or swelling requires additional management by the prescribed guidelines and must be reported immediately to the club leader who will speak to your CFR.

Again, please always remember that exceptions to any patterns are frequent and that all dogs must be managed individually and with caution.

A leader who is uncertain of a dog's reproductive cycle should consult with his/her CFR, who may recommend a veterinary consult with the Guide Dog’s veterinary clinic.

Any female in-season dogs that come into contact with an unaltered male dog or become loose, lost, or otherwise unsupervised must be reported immediately to the CFR or the Puppy Raising Department office if the CFR is unavailable.

Boarding of females in season For a complete description of our “Boarding female dogs in-season policy”, please see Policies, forms, and resources section.

4-5 SPAY/NEUTER AND HERNIAS

Spay/neuter procedure There are many factors that go into the decision to spay or neuter some Guide Dog puppies. We will alter some before placement in your home. We may ask you to have others altered while you are raising them. Others may be considered for breeding stock and must be left intact. The majority of dogs that are altered prior to training have been ruled out as possible breeding stock. Behavior may also be a factor. Only Guide Dogs for the Blind can make the decision to have a Guide Dog puppy altered.

Guidelines for spay/neutering Guide Dog puppies: • Never spay or neuter a Guide Dog puppy without authorization from Guide Dogs for the Blind. • You will either receive a letter from Guide Dogs asking you to have your Guide Dog puppy altered within a certain time frame or you will be told to have the procedure done by your leader or CFR. • If Guide Dogs authorizes a spay or neuter, the procedure can be done by your own veterinarian. • Guide Dogs will pay for any pre-authorized altering. • Immediately upon completion of the altering procedure, have your veterinarian return the spay/neuter certificate to Guide Dogs for the Blind. • Enter the alter date in the monthly report submitted to your leader. • Follow your veterinarian’s post-operative instructions closely.

Umbilical hernias Umbilical hernias are holes in the abdominal wall at the site of the umbilical cord. Before birth, the umbilical cord supplies the growing fetus with nutrients and removes wastes. At birth, the umbilical cord is cut by the brood bitch or by a kennel assistant, and subsequently treated with tincture of iodine to inhibit bacterial contamination. The umbilical cord shrivels up and drops off within a day or two. The site in the abdominal wall that the cord passed through is called the umbilicus.

Normally, the site closes down shortly after birth. In a few puppies, the site remains open, and is called an umbilical hernia. If the hernia is large enough for a section of bowel to pass through it, and become entrapped, it can be problematic. Umbilical hernias of this size should be closed surgically once the puppy is large enough to withstand anesthesia and surgery. If the hernia is tiny, too small for a section of bowel to pass through, then it is simply a cosmetic defect. Sometimes a portion of omentum, the material padding abdominal organs, passes through the hernia and feels like a mass. Usually it can be replaced into the abdomen through the hernia by gentle manipulation. Sometimes the hernia closes, leaving a mass of omentum outside of the abdomen. This again is only a cosmetic problem, and can be repaired later when the puppy is neutered. It is not known definitively if umbilical hernias are genetic.

The veterinary clinic would prefer not to put puppies with cosmetic umbilical hernias through anesthesia and surgery. Do not approve any hernia operation without first consulting with your CFR, who will consult with a Guide Dogs veterinarian.

4-6 FLEAS, TICKS AND PARASITES

Flea and tick control

To help you control fleas and all of the problems that come with them, a once-a-month topical flea preventative is included in the puppy packets. If you live in an area that is heavily infested with fleas and ticks, you may also be issued an additional tick preventative. These are very effective products for controlling external parasites. Their use controls not only the parasites themselves, but also prevents secondary problems related to fleas and ticks such as tapeworm, Lyme disease, damaged skin and coat, and obsessive scratching or chewing.

Please make sure that you dispense these products precisely, according to the directions enclosed with the product. If you have any questions about their use, contact your leader.

You have been supplied with enough topical flea product to last until your dog is 12 months of age. Contact your leader for an additional supply if you run out.

Guide Dogs does not reimburse the cost of any additional flea and tick control including powders, dips, sprays, or "holistic" parasite control measures. If you have other pets, it's also important that you maintain them on a parasite control program. This will reduce risk of infestation.

Heartworm prevention

Guide Dogs provides heartworm preventative in the puppy packet. Whether or not you live in a heartworm affected area, give your puppy the preventative every month on schedule. Each raiser receives enough preventive to provide heartworm protection for the dog up to 14 months of age. If your dog is being recalled for training later than 14 months old, please contact your leader for additional heartworm preventative.

HEARTGARD® Plus protocol The following directions for administering once-a-month heartworm preventative are provided to ensure that each pup receives the appropriate dose. In addition to these instructions, you may also receive other individual instructions from Guide Dogs staff when you receive your pup.

In the packet are two different colored boxes of heartworm preventative, one green box and one brown box. Different size pups take different size pills (cubes). The green box has cubes for pups that weigh up to 50 lbs., the brown box has cubes for pups who weigh 51 lbs. to 100 lbs.

Pups weighing up to 50 lbs. - give one cube from the GREEN box on the first of the month - even if your puppy weighs less than 26 lbs.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 4: Health care Section 4-6 2/2003 Fleas/Ticks/Parasites Pups weighing 51 lbs. to 100 lbs. - give one cube from the BROWN box. If you still have cubes left in the green box, you can double the dose and give two cubes from the GREEN box.

Pups weighing more than 100 lbs. - give two cubes from the BROWN box.

Please note that all cubes look the same. The only different is the color of the box, so please note which color box you are removing the cube from before administering to the dog.

INSTRUCTIONS Place cube in feed pan prior to feeding your pup a meal. If your puppy will not eat the cube, contact your leader.

Effective heartworm prevention is very important to your Guide Dog puppy's health. Please follow these directions exactly. • All pups on once-a-month heartworm preventative should receive their cube(s) on the first of every month. • If a pup is going to be boarded ANYWHERE over the first of the month, send the cube to be administered by their staff. • It is the combined responsibility of the raiser and the leader to make sure that each puppy in the group receives its preventative on schedule. • If you miss giving the cube on the first of the month, give it as soon as remembered, then restart the first of the next month on schedule. No heartworm testing is required. Notify your leader and make a notation on your monthly report.

• Two pills from the green box equal one from the brown box. • NEVER, NEVER cut a pill in half. • You can give your puppy more, but never less.

How to be an effective teacher

Now that you have your puppy home and know how to care for him, you must teach him which behaviors are appropriate and how to respond to your commands. To be effective, you need to learn how your puppy thinks.

Dogs have two types of behavior. One is instinctual behavior that is a natural, inherited behavioral response. The other is learned behavior. Learned behavior can be either positively reinforced by reward or corrected in order to prevent repetition.

Be the leader of the pack Nature has provided wild dogs with a strong instinct for pack behavior. Canines that live in a pack are better suited both for hunting and for defense. Every canine pack has a ranking order. A ranking order is a ladder of authority that determines how a dog relates to other members of his pack. At the top of the ranking order is the pack leader. A pack that is temporarily without a strong leader is in a state of turmoil.

Your family is your dog's pack. Your dog interacts with you and your family members in the same way that he would with members of a canine pack. To train or cooperatively live with your dog, you must be the pack leader. The dog may not yield this role to you easily. He is instinctually programmed to be the pack leader himself if that position is empty or weak.

Use these rules to help you be an effective leader and to improve your training skills: • Do not interpret your puppy's behavior in human terms-dogs think differently than humans do. • Speak in a voice that is confident and calm. • Touch your puppy in a calm and confident manner. • Express confidence in the way you walk as well as other body language. • Maintain a calm and assured demeanor. • Establish firm rules for your puppy's conduct and do not change them. • Do not give in to your puppy when he tries to control you. • Follow through when you give your puppy a command. Make your puppy respond to all your commands the first time they are given. • Consistently correct stubborn, hyperactive, assertive and aggressive behaviors. • See "3-1 Feeding" in section 3: Caring for your puppy and "6-1 Important behaviors" in section 6: Training techniques to teach your puppy not to be possessive of his food, bed, toys, etc. • Praise and reward all appropriate behaviors.

Are you an effective teacher for your puppy? To be an effective teacher you must: • Be a strong leader • Set examples by your own actions

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 5: Training principles Section 5-1 2/2003 Philosophy • Be consistent in your methods and techniques • Give effective commands • Pattern the behaviors you want your puppy to learn • Teach through effective praise and corrections • Use Guide Dog approved rewards and corrections • Teach all lessons in sequence and one step at a time • Know what your puppy must learn to be a successful guide

Give effective commands

(See "6-3 Commands" in section 6: Training techniques for specific procedures to train your puppy to respond to commands.) • When you give a command, say your puppy's name first. For example, if you want him to sit you would say "Name, Sit" (name first). When the puppy hears his name, he should be ready to perform a task for you. • Be sure that you give every command only once. Make your puppy perform the task on that first command. Two or more commands are confusing. • Give one command for one action. For example, "Name, Sit", not "Name, Sit Down." • Make sure the puppy has completed the first command before you give a second command. • Praise your puppy every time he does what you have commanded. • Say "Good boy/girl," not "Good sit." • Release your puppy from a command with the OK release word, not by praising him. There are many times a guide must be praised for making the right decision, but must continue working without being released.

Use the proper tone of voice • Your tone of voice can influence your puppy's behavior and his response to commands. • All commands should be given clearly and with confidence. • Do not shout your commands. • A whispered or tentative command does nothing to encourage response. • If you want the puppy to be more animated or confident in an exercise, animate your praise. You should sound delighted when he complies. • Calm your excited puppy and lower his level of energy or anxiety by speaking slowly and in a calm voice. • Commands such as Sit, Down, and Stay should be said with a degree of authority and assertiveness. • Sit, Down, and Stay may need a calm, slow voice if the puppy is excitable. • Say Let's go in an encouraging but not pleading tone of voice. • Say Come in a happy, eager voice, encouraging the dog to come to you. • Say That's enough in either a manner that relays authority or one that relays calmness, or sometimes a mixture of both. • Different ages and temperaments of dogs respond differently to different tones. Experiment with different tones to see which tone your puppy responds to best. ¾ Young puppies generally respond better when calm and/or encouraging voices are used. ¾ Older puppies and mature dogs usually require a more commanding voice.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 5: Training principles Section 5-1 2/2003 Philosophy ¾ Dogs with soft temperaments generally require soft voices. ¾ Bolder dogs are often better controlled with stronger voices.

Train your puppy to respond to commands in a timely manner • Encourage thinking responses. An unthinking (reflex) is discouraged in Guide Dogs. Guides need to be thinking animals that evaluate situations and make choices about how they should respond. • Learn to read your dog. There is a fine line between a dog that is waiting or reacting slowly because he is making a decision and a dog that is being slow out of defiance. It is up to you to know the difference. • Speed up stubborn responses by correcting for noncompliance and then praising generously when he does comply

Praise generously and consistently • No command is effective unless followed by praise for successful compliance. • Guide Dogs are not only working animals, but also trusting and trusted companions. • Praise is one of the most essential ingredients in the recipe of producing a good Guide Dog.

• A primary rule in teaching a dog is: never give a command you cannot enforce. That means you must have a physical means of controlling the dog with your hands, a leash, a dragline or a tie-down. • Try to anticipate what your puppy is going to do so you can be prepared to follow through on your commands.

Pattern desired behaviors

Patterning is learning appropriate behaviors through repetition and is complete only when the behavior is ingrained. The best way to pattern behavior is through practice. Complete patterning takes at least 30 days of consistent, successful practice and may take much longer for some puppies.

How to pattern behaviors you want your puppy to learn • Schedule several practice sessions throughout each day. • Keep practice sessions short, frequent and successful with lots of praise. • When you practice, be consistent in your expectations of the puppy's behaviors. • Randomly practice individual exercises throughout the day between scheduled lessons. • Reward all correct behavior in your lessons - scheduled or random. • Reward all correct spontaneous behavior such as when your puppy comes and sits calmly by your side.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 5: Training principles Section 5-1 2/2003 Philosophy Pattern your training habits People, too, learn through patterning. Pattern your own behaviors and skills as a trainer through practicing. Have someone observe you as you train. That way, you can learn what you are doing that needs to be changed and then build a good training pattern.

Teach lessons one step at a time Not all puppies are the same - some may develop faster than others. Since all puppies have different strengths and weaknesses, they all need to be taught at the pace that suits them best. • All lessons, training and socializing should be done in progressive steps and at a pace that your particular puppy can readily accept and learn. • Move on to the next step of a lesson only after the puppy has been successful with the first step and readily accepts what is being asked of him. ¾ Example: When you are teaching a puppy how to sit on command, go from hand- placing the sit (one hand pulling up on the collar and one hand tucking the rear under) to a sit 'reminder' (one hand pulling up on the collar and one hand lightly touching the rear). • Teach only one behavior at a time. • Trying to teach more than one behavior at a time is confusing and will lead to the puppy’s failure to learn either behavior.

Teach lessons in sequence • Teach behaviors and lessons by starting lessons at the beginning of a teaching sequence so you can ensure that the puppy will successfully be able to accomplish what you are asking him to do. ¾ Example: When you are teaching a puppy how to sit on command, start by hand placing him into position. If you start by telling him to sit without putting him into position, you may teach him to ignore the command because he doesn't understand what is being asked of him. ¾ Example: When you are teaching a puppy how to relieve on command, start by saying the Do your business command as he starts to relieve, not before or after. That way he associates the command with the action. • Move to the next step in the sequence only when the puppy is consistently responding in the correct way. • Move to the next step in the sequence only when the puppy is completely calm and relaxed with the step you have been working on. • Move back a step in the sequence if you are having any problems getting your puppy to understand the step you are trying to teach.

How a dog learns

A dog is an instinctual animal whose behaviors are, to a large degree, influenced by an inherited pattern of behaviors. • A dog learns by a trial-and-error system in which he samples different behaviors. • If a behavior is met with a favorable or positive reward, the dog will continue the behavior, seeking the reward.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 5: Training principles Section 5-1 2/2003 Philosophy ¾ Real-life example: A dog sticks its head into the garbage can and is rewarded by finding a tasty treat. The dog will continue sticking its head in the garbage can looking for the treat. ¾ Training example: The dog acts in an uncontrollable manner and makes its handler give up. The dog learns to act uncontrollably for the reward of getting its own way and avoiding discipline. • Any behavior that is met by a reward teaches the dog to repeat the behavior. ¾ Real-life example: Your puppy sits down for a moment while you are preparing to give him his dinner. You praise him and immediately feed him. He learns that behaving in a quiet, controlled manner gets him his dinner. ¾ Training example: You quietly praise your puppy every time he sits when you tell him. He will learn to sit on command in many different situations because you have consistently taught him that it is pleasant to respond to your commands. • He will learn to avoid behaviors that are met by a negative response or correction. ¾ Real-life example: A dog accidentally runs into the fence while playing. It will do so only a time or two before it learns not to run into the fence. ¾ Training example: A dog that lunges toward food is corrected with a snap of the collar every time he does so. He will soon learn to restrain himself.

Time corrections to coincide with the start of any undesired behavior.

Well-timed corrections and rewards are needed to teach your puppy • Dogs learn by rewards and corrections that are instantaneous. ¾ Real life example: A dog sticks his head in the garbage because he gets the treat immediately. ¾ Real life example: A dog learns not to run into the fence because it stops him instantly. If he did not feel the contact with the fence for five seconds after he made contact, he would continue running into the fence. He would never understand the connection between the discomfort and the fence. • Correct or reward a dog's behaviors as soon as they occur. When correcting or praising your dog, remember why he sticks his head in the garbage can and why he does not run into the fence. ¾ Training example: You cannot correct your dog for "doing his business" on the carpet five minutes after he had the accident. He will not understand why he is being corrected. ¾ Training example: A puppy mouths your hand. The instant the puppy places his mouth around your hand, you snap his collar. The puppy will stop mouthing you. But, if you delay your corrections just a second or two after he makes contact on your skin, the puppy will not understand why you are snapping his collar. • Rewards for a good behavior must be as closely timed to the good behavior as corrections are timed to bad behavior.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 5: Training principles Section 5-1 2/2003 Philosophy ¾ Training example: You tell a dog to sit and he does so. Praise is most effective if it is done as soon as his bottom touches the ground. If you delay telling him that he is a "Good dog," he will not understand what action you are praising. • Never correct behavior such as a housebreaking accident or destructive chewing if you did not see him do it. Dogs do not understand what they are being corrected for after they have done it. • Dogs do not understand being corrected with the "presentation of evidence." The "guilty" look is actually a submission gesture or an anxiety response because he realizes that you are upset with him. He becomes anxious (looks guilty) because he considers you to be his pack leader and he has a strong need to please the pack leader and stay in your good graces.

Reward and correct consistently

• For a dog to learn to avoid a behavior, he must be corrected consistently. • For a dog to learn to perform a behavior, he must be rewarded consistently. • Praise is effective only if it is repeated every time the behavior is performed. • Behaviors that are corrected inconsistently may be repeated because the puppy can't predict which time he will be corrected and which time he will escape correction. ¾ Training example: Your puppy mouths you, has an accident in the house, jumps on you, chews things up or acts out other inappropriate behavior. You instantly correct him every time. He will learn that these behaviors should be avoided.

Be prepared • When your dog does something inappropriate, often he catches you by surprise when you are not ready to deal with him. • Learn to anticipate his inappropriate behaviors. ¾ Training example: Your puppy jumps on you every time you go out into the back yard. Be ready for him with a plan of action. Catch him the instant he begins to leap, correct him with the collar, and make him sit. Praise him as soon as he sits. If he starts to jump, do the whole exercise over and over again until he responds correctly. ¾ Training example: Your puppy whines every time your friends come over. Be prepared for it. Develop a plan of action. Put him on a tie-down right next to you. Every time he whines, correct him with the collar and praise him when he is quiet. • Try to develop a plan to deal with inappropriate behaviors before they happen.

Trust your dog's intelligence • Dogs are intelligent animals. • They learn rapidly when corrections and rewards are given consistently and immediately. • Your Guide Dog puppy has been bred to be even more responsive to instruction than most dogs. • Follow the techniques prescribed above and your puppy will quickly grasp your lessons.

Make sure you are teaching your puppy what you intend to teach him! • Do not repeat your command if you think the puppy does not understand you the first time. ¾ Repeating a command before making the puppy do the exercise will teach him to ignore you the first time you speak. • Do not repeat your command if you think the puppy did not hear you the first time. ¾ Dogs have exceptional hearing. ¾ Your puppy hears you even if he pretends he cannot. ¾ Repeating the command more loudly before making the puppy do the exercise teaches him that he does not have to obey until you shout. • Make the puppy do every command you give him.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 5: Training principles Section 5-2 2/2003 Rewards ¾ Letting the puppy "skip" commands teaches him that he needs to mind only when he wants to. • Make the puppy do each exercise correctly. ¾ Letting the puppy do exercises poorly puts him in the position of control where he is deciding how to obey. • Consistently praise all good behaviors. ¾ A puppy needs to know every time he does something correctly so that he can repeat the good behavior again to please you.

Approved rewards

Effective praise is the method of choice for rewarding a Guide Dog puppy. Both verbal praise and the physical praise of petting, stroking or hugging, when correctly used, can be a strong motivator to teach, reinforce or change behavior. To be effective, you need to learn these simple guidelines: • Reward is as important - or even more important - than the corrections you use. Remember that one of the ways a dog learns is through reward. It takes the correct use of praise to produce a well-balanced, happy, intelligent Guide Dog. • Work as hard on praise as you do on corrections. Training must be balanced; emphasizing correction over praise will make the puppy less than happy in his work. • Praise him every time he does something right, whether he is following a command, or performing an appropriate behavior of his own accord (for example, laying quietly at your side in a public setting). This will make it easier for your puppy to learn these behaviors when he is formally instructed by the Guide Dog trainers. • Praise in an appropriate tone of voice. ¾ Praise eagerly and sweetly, sometimes combining it with pats, strokes and hugs, and other times just using your voice. A cool pat will not motivate him to do what you want. An unemotional mutter of "good dog" is not encouraging. ¾ Use your voice in an encouraging tone. An enthusiastic "GOOD DOG!" or a soothing, loving "Gooooood doooog..." will be most effective. ¾ Enthusiastic praise doesn't mean loud praise. It is your tone and inflection that is important. Loud praise will overly stimulate excitable puppies. • Use praise to reinforce behaviors that you are trying to teach. By praising any attempt to respond, you encourage the puppy to try harder to earn your praise. • After he begins to understand what you want, praise only the best performances. This will motivate him to try harder to earn your praise. • Time your praise to occur either during or immediately after the behavior you want to reinforce. The longer the time between the behavior and the praise, the less effective it will be. A puppy has an extremely short attention span. A delay as short as three seconds between the behavior and the praise can be too long. • Vary the intensity of your praise to fit the degree of effort made by the puppy. When the puppy acts uncertain that he made the correct choice of behavior, give high intensity, enthusiastic (not loud) praise to assure him that he made the right choice.

Consistency is the key to success! Practice allows you to consistently correct or reward actions to pattern behaviors.

Unacceptable rewards • Guide Dog puppies may not be hand-fed or receive treats as a reward for good behavior. • Guide Dog puppies should not be rewarded or "induced" to do behaviors with the "promise" of a toy when they complete a desired action. ¾ Specific exceptions for specific dogs may be made to the above guidelines by a recommendation from the director of the Puppy Raising Department.

Having trouble? • If your puppy is having trouble understanding what is expected of him, the answer often lies in your technique. • Developing better skills may help you improve your puppy. • Practice will develop you as a trainer. • Contact your leader for advice. If more assistance is needed, your leader will contact your CFR.

5-3 CORRECTIONS

How and when to correct your puppy

Correction is a difficult issue for most people. We all love animals and have no desire to do anything to make them unhappy. At times, this makes it difficult for us to correct them even when it is needed.

As with people, dogs learn to be responsible through the contrast between rewards and corrections. It is the correction you provide that will teach your puppy that there is a consequence for unacceptable behavior. It is this consequence, plus your generous praise for correct behaviors, that will motivate him to change his unacceptable behavior.

There is a major difference, however, between people and dogs. People speak a language. You can explain to a person why you are upset and what he has done to make you upset. You can then request his cooperation in changing his behavior. Dogs do not understand language. While they can be conditioned to respond to command words and trained to respond appropriately to situations, they are incapable of understanding spoken explanations.

You must present your dog with a physical consequence for his inappropriate actions in order for him to understand that he has done something that is unacceptable. The contrast between pleasant rewards and corrections teaches him to respond appropriately. Correction does NOT mean physical abuse or beating. There is no justification for physical abuse and it is not an effective method of training. A frightened puppy is not able to think clearly or respond appropriately. Physical abuse of a puppy is cause for immediate removal from the raiser's home.

One of your most difficult jobs as a Guide Dog puppy raiser will be to learn how to gauge your puppy's emotional state and temperament. You will be able to correct and motivate him effectively only when you learn how to tell what he is feeling. The state of your puppy's emotions will affect how you should correct him. There will be times when you will need to correct very lightly; other times you will need to correct more firmly in order to change a very persistent behavior, or to affect him when he is feeling strong emotions, and other times you will need to motivate with praise.

The only acceptable Guide Dog corrections are leash and collar corrections.

How to do a leash and collar correction

The leash and collar correction is administered by giving a quick pop with the leash. Correctly delivered, the leash and collar correction does not hurt or frighten the dog, but merely distracts him from concentrating on an unacceptable behavior. It reorients his attention to you. • The leash always must be loose to start a correction and loosened immediately after you have completed the correction.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 5: Training principles Section 5-3 2/2003 Corrections • Snap the leash quickly and then just as quickly return the leash to its slack position. • HOLDING THE LEASH TIGHTLY INSTEAD OF QUICKLY RETURNING THE SLACK WILL INCREASE THE PUPPY'S RESISTANCE and decrease the effectiveness of the correction. • If the puppy is moving fast or if he is a large, strong adolescent, extend your arm toward the dog before snapping it backward in order to create enough slack to make an effective correction. • When the correction is correctly executed, you will feel a jolt through the leash. This jolt is what stops the unacceptable behavior and gets his attention. • If the puppy does not change his behavior when you correct him, you know that you were ineffective in your delivery or timing. Your goal is to stop the behavior with only one correction. • Ineffective corrections condition your puppy to ignore you and to resist your leadership.

Headcollars, discussed in "2-4 Equipment (and how to use it)" in section 2: Preparing for puppy raising, are halter-type training tools used to guide or "steer" the dog, not to correct. Some puppies may be issued with this training tool if they are not responding appropriately to your leash and collar corrections. Never use the leash and collar correction techniques just described with a headcollar.

An effective correction stops the inappropriate behavior after only one correction. It does so without making the dog fearful. Your job is to ask yourself, "Did he stop his behavior after one correction?" If he stopped, was he looking at you respectfully or does he appear afraid?

Effectively correcting your puppy • The goal of an effective correction is to stop the inappropriate behavior with ONE correction. If it takes you more than one correction to stop the puppy from continuing with the behavior, you either did not correct properly, or you were not firm enough. • Corrections should be administered in a controlled manner. When you lose your temper, your puppy has succeeded in emotionally manipulating you by changing your emotional state. This is a passive form of domination that enables him to challenge your leadership. • For optimum results, use just enough force to affect your puppy without frightening him. He should appear respectful, not scared. • Always follow corrections that change his behavior with praise. That is the only way you will successfully be able to motivate your puppy to change his behavior. • Always wait until your puppy has changed his behavior before praising after a correction. For example, did he stop trying to chase the cat or are you just praising him automatically because you just corrected him? • Never snub your puppy after a correction by being angry or isolating him from you emotionally. His attention span is very short and he will not understand why you are still correcting him.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 5: Training principles Section 5-3 2/2003 Corrections • Never bluff or threaten a correction. Your puppy needs to know that you are an effective leader who always carries through with correction when it is needed. • NEVER strike your puppy. This will produce a hand-shy dog and/or cause other personality problems.

The principles of effective leash and collar corrections • Appropriately administered and effective leash and collar corrections start and end on a loose leash. They are the same when done with either a standard collar or a training collar. • Proper, effective and humane corrections are quick, sharp pops of the collar administered with the leash. Effective corrections are not steady, strangling pulls. • Time your corrections to occur as the misbehavior is occurring or about to occur. • Leash and collar snaps should be gauged to the puppy's size, emotional state and body sensitivity. ¾ Little dogs usually need little corrections. ¾ Big dogs usually need bigger corrections. ¾ Little dogs with tough necks may need bigger corrections. ¾ Big dogs with sensitive necks may need little corrections. • Leash and collar corrections must be gauged to the severity of the misbehavior. ¾ Mild acts of undesired behavior should get mild corrections. ¾ Big acts of misbehavior should get bigger corrections. • Leash and collar corrections must vary to fit the puppy's size, age and degree of emotional commitment to the behavior. ¾ A small, young puppy that is attempting an undesirable behavior for the first time will need just a light tug on the leash. ¾ An adolescent or young adult dog that is determinedly repeating a behavior he knows is unacceptable will need a considerably stronger correction. • If your puppy did not respond to your first leash and collar correction, you should use a second correction. This correction should be firmer (maybe much firmer) than the first. • It's important that you learn your puppy's strength, willingness and possible resistance. Study which corrections are effective and how to duplicate them.

Reward is as important, if not more so, than the correction. Please work as hard on praise as you do on corrections. Poor praisers are poor trainers.

Unacceptable corrections

• The following types of corrections are not permitted to be used in the training of Guide Dog puppies: ¾ hitting ¾ kicking ¾ kneeing ¾ choking

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 5: Training principles Section 5-3 2/2003 Corrections ¾ shaking the puppy or its crate ¾ the "Alpha roll" (rolling a puppy over on his back and holding him there until he "submits") ¾ other types of physically administered corrections using hands, legs, or objects. • Also not permitted by Guide Dogs for the Blind are corrections that involve: ¾ electrical shocks ¾ throwing of objects ¾ use of unapproved noise to startle the pup or stop behaviors

Use of unacceptable corrections can result in the immediate removal of the Guide Dog puppy from a raiser's home.

5-4 KNOW ABOUT “NO”

Guide Dogs has found that training is more effectively accomplished when positive interactions are the focus of training. All communication with your puppy should avoid negativity. It's very important to be positive and clear cut. That is why it is very important that the excessive or ineffective use of correcting words such as "No!” “Don't!" or "Stop!" be avoided.

Guide Dogs recognizes that a correctly used "no" can be a very helpful tool. However, "no" and other negative terms are frequently used ineffectively, excessively or inappropriately. The loud or repetitive use of "no" gives the public a negative impression. The public should be hearing you say "Good dog." Hearing "no" encourages them to believe that your puppy is out of control. If they are hearing praise instead of verbal correction, the public will have a positive view of you and Guide Dogs for the Blind. Using the following guidelines will ensure that you are teaching and using "no" correctly.

Guidelines for teaching "no": • "No" should be deliberately taught, not used as an attempt to correct your puppy when he is out of reach. • When using "no," it should always be used in conjunction with either a leash and collar or a dragline correction. • When you use "no," say it either just before or just AS you leash and collar correct. The timing is very important. Your puppy should feel the leash and collar correction at the instant that he hears the "no" command. "No" should never come after the correction. • "No" should be said QUIETLY (not whispered or shouted), but firmly and seriously. • "No" should not be repeated for the same inappropriate behavior. Remember your goal! Your puppy should stop inappropriate behavior with just ONE correction. If your "no" did not stop the puppy's behavior, repeating the "no" will just teach him to ignore you. • Never say "no, no, no!" Repetitions teach your puppy that words have no meaning. He learns to tune you out and ignore you. • An effective "no" (puppy immediately stops the inappropriate behavior) should always be followed with PRAISE. • Avoid the use of "no" in public settings - instead, just use a leash and collar correction.

If "no" has been effectively taught, it may save your puppy's life in an emergency. This is one circumstance when using "no" is warranted. For example, a stern "no" may stop a loose pup from crossing a busy street. In such a case, you should use whatever tools you need to stop and protect your loose puppy.

An ineffective "no" that is used as a substitute for a needed leash correction teaches your puppy to ignore commands. Even more detrimental is the use of repeated "no"s or using "no" to bluff or threaten a puppy.

In “2-5 Your puppy’s arrival” in section 2: Preparing for puppy raising, we outlined the behaviors necessary for a dog to become a successful guide. In this section, we will define various behaviors and go over ways to teach your pup good manners around people, food, and other animals, in the home and in public.

While training your Guide Dog puppy, you may encounter some behaviors that are inappropriate. Even though you may feel that the behaviors are "normal" for a pet puppy, they may need to be corrected in order to help the puppy reach the goal of becoming a guide.

Behaviors to report to your leader

• Nibbling, mouthing, nipping, grabbing, snapping, biting, hackling, posturing, lunging, slinking, cowering, soliciting people, submissive or excited urinating, mounting of people or objects, growling • Lunging on-leash, pulling on-leash, holding leash in mouth, tripping you while on- leash, destructive chewing, picking up objects, carrying objects • Stealing food, foraging (searching) for food, "scarfing" food off the floor, possessive behaviors (in relation to food, toys, people, pets, space) • Car sickness, chasing cars, jumping on people, counters, furniture and doors, excessive barking or whining, charging through doors, barking at people, dogs, noises and objects, predatory behavior toward other animals, distraction/obsessions with dogs, aggression/submission to dogs, self destructive chewing or licking of body parts, excessive tail-chasing, digging, chasing lights or shadows

By quickly alerting your leader to any of your puppy's questionable behaviors, you may help find an answer to a problem that otherwise could become difficult or impossible to change if left until the puppy is older.

Descriptions of common inappropriate oral behaviors • Nibbling - The puppy uses his front teeth to repeatedly take tiny "bites" as in "flea biting." This usually starts as a grooming activity early in life while the puppy is still with its littermates. • Mouthing - Gently (though sometimes not so gently) taking a person's hand or arm in the mouth. Sometimes accompanied by a "chewing" motion. This is frequently done while being groomed or played with, but also sometimes is used as a greeting behavior. • Nipping - Taking one or more "small bites" with the front teeth. This behavior can be exhibited when the pup is feeling playful, fearful or aggressive. • Grabbing - Reaching out and taking hold of a piece of clothing, fingers, a hand or arm of a human, or an ear, the side of the face or the tail of another animal. • Snapping - Biting at a person, dog or object without making physical contact with the teeth. It may or may not be accompanied by some form of vocalization like growling or barking. Frequently the sound of the teeth closing rapidly can be heard.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors • Biting - Quickly using his teeth in a forceful, unpleasant and hurtful way. Most actual bites (if the teeth connect) either bruise or break the skin of the person or dog being bitten.

Descriptions of other common inappropriate behaviors • Hackling - The lifting of the fur that grows on the back of the neck and upper back. This is an involuntary action that can occur for many reasons such as excitement, anxiety or aggressive intent. • Posturing - Eyes "lock" or "hard stare" at another dog or person. The front legs and neck become stiff and hackles rise along the back from the base of the neck towards the tail. The tail sticks straight out or rises above the back, sometimes wagging slightly. • Lunging - The puppy moves rapidly toward another dog, person or object, usually dragging its handler with it. This behavior is often not aggressive in intent, but is an indication that the puppy has not yet learned to look to its handler for direction when it encounters distractions. • Slinking - The puppy walks with its rear end (or the whole body) lowered toward the ground. Usually the tail also is clamped to the body or between the legs. • Cowering - An attempt to avoid a person, dog or thing by drawing away or hiding behind someone or thing. May be accompanied by trembling or vocalization like whining or growling. • Soliciting - Excessive attention on people and desire to interact with people. Frequently coupled with mouthing, licking or jumping on people (even if the puppy does not know the person). • Submissive urinating - The release of urine by a puppy when it is feeling anxious, fearful or attempting to show that it acknowledges the dominance of a person or another dog. This is a very common behavior for many puppies that should not be acknowledged or punished in any way. Some puppies do this when touched, others only do so if talked to or corrected sternly.

Descriptions of common inappropriate attitudes • Aggression - Behavior that is usually characterized by intent to harm another dog or a person. Most truly aggressive dogs or pups will bite in certain circumstances. Many people misuse this term when they really are referring to dominant or assertive behavior. • Assertiveness - Behavior that is usually characterized by attempts by the puppy to pull hard on the leash or otherwise act in a very confident, "pushy" manner. Most "assertive" dogs or pups believe that they are (or should be) dominant over their handler. • Dominance - An attitude held by the puppy that is characterized by a belief that it is in charge or should be in charge of other people or dogs. The dominant dog or pup believes it should have the right to receive attention when it craves it and to refuse attention when it doesn't want to interact. The pup also usually believes that it has the right to possess toys, eat first and sleep or lie wherever it wants. Dominant dogs or puppies may, at times, exhibit aggressive behavior if they feel that a person or dog has not appropriately acknowledged their dominance. • Insecurity - An attitude characterized by anxiety, fear or lack of confidence. Insecure dogs or pups may sometimes exhibit "aggressive" behavior because they are

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors fearful and trying to drive away the thing that they fear. This particularly applies to their interactions with other dogs and may initially be seen as hackling, growling or barking. • Fearfulness - An attitude characterized by strong anxiety and insecurity. Most fearful dogs or pups will exhibit trembling, whining, slinking, cowering or insecure hackling at one time or another. • Submissiveness - An attitude characterized by a desire to please the individual or dog that they consider to be dominant or in charge. Submissive dogs or puppies may sometimes act in an insecure or fearful manner if they do not feel that the individual, or dog, that they are with, is exhibiting adequate leadership, or, if a person or dog interacts with them in a highly dominant manner.

Essential behaviors

As part of teaching your puppy good house manners and socializing him, there are a number of essential behaviors he needs to learn. Once your pup learns to: stay alone; exhibit self-control; ignore distractions; behave around other people, dogs or animals; trust; and not have obsessions; you are well on your way to preparing a pup to become a successful guide.

Teach your puppy to stay alone Goal: The puppy is confident, quiet and calm when left alone. He is not destructive to himself or the environment.

Are you ready to try to leave your puppy alone? A person with a visual impairment has times when he needs to do so. Therefore it's important that you teach your puppy to stay by himself for at least short periods of time.

Left alone before he is ready for the responsibility, he may: • Whine, bark or howl • Chew things up • Get in the garbage • Dig • Pull things off of tables • Climb on furniture • Scratch up doors and walls • Push through screens • Smash through windows • Hurt himself • Knock you down when you come home

First - prepare your puppy to learn to stay home alone • Before you expect good behavior when you're not with him, be sure your puppy knows the rules when you're with him. ¾ Practice, pattern and perfect all the house manner behaviors when you are home with the puppy (see "Good house manners" later in this section).

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors ¾ Give him experience on his tie-down, but remember to do this only when you are present (see "2-4 Equipment (and how to use it)" in section 2: Preparing for puppy raising). ¾ Give him experience by himself in his crate with you present or gone. ¾ Leave him in a room behind a closed door for short periods then longer periods.

After he has learned to be calm and dependably good with you present: • Make sure that he is physically comfortable, with a full tummy, a drink of water and a relieving break before you leave. • Give him some physical and mental exercise (quiet, controlled play or the puppy handling exercises) before you leave. • Make sure that he has calmed back down before you leave. • Remove all dangerous articles and situations - puppy-proof your house. • Check all doors for security.

Use the following guidelines to actually teach him to stay alone • Closely monitor the puppy's behavior and return quickly enough to ensure success. ¾ Start with only a minute or two where you can peek at him through a window. ¾ Return calmly and quietly, and praise his good behavior. ¾ Correct him for being destructive or having an accident only if you catch him in the act. • Put the puppy in a chew-proof environment (crate or kennel) whenever he cannot be monitored. ¾ Tie-downs are to be used only if the puppy can be directly monitored. ¾ Anything left with a young puppy must be on our list of approved toys and must be used in compliance with our “Puppy toy and play policies” (see Policies, forms and resources section.) • He's only "home alone" when he is NOT with other dogs. ¾ Your puppy could be injured accidentally during unsupervised play with other dogs. ¾ He needs to learn to be self-sufficient and not dependent on another dog. Most people with visual impairments, who have a Guide Dog, do not have another dog at home to keep their guide company.

Teach your puppy to cope with distractions Goal: Remember your puppy's ultimate purpose - to help a person with visual impairments. Guides encounter all sorts of distractions as they go through the day. A Guide Dog puppy needs to learn to behave appropriately all the time, not just when he feels like it.

Training a dog when it is distracted is much more difficult than training a dog when you are by yourself with no disturbances. When your puppy is distracted by something, he tends to focus on the distraction, rather than on you or your requests.

Common distractions are: objects, environments, people, other animals, scents and sounds. Your puppy may respond to distractions in many different ways. He might get excited, nervous, fearful or even aggressive. Your job is to learn to read your puppy to determine how he responds to distractions. Usually, an animal is more disturbed by a

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors new distraction. After repeated exposure to a distraction, the pup begins to regard it as commonplace.

Gradually expose your puppy to distractions As stated in "5-1 Philosophy" in section 5: Training principles, do not put your puppy in a situation that you and he are not ready to cope with calmly. • Approach the distraction slowly. • If necessary, let the puppy observe the distraction from a distance. • Do not approach the distraction until the puppy relaxes. • When approaching the distraction, do so a step at a time. • Do not advance until the puppy calms.

Distractions are not excuses for poor behavior • In a distracting situation, make your puppy behave the same way he does when he is not exposed to a distraction. Distractions are good training tools, NOT an excuse for misbehavior. • If a situation is too difficult for him, back out of it and approach it more slowly or leave it for another day. • Do not force him to approach the distraction. • If your puppy is not behaving, it's important to give him something to do that he knows (such as Sit). • If that doesn't work, remove him from the situation so he can't repeat his misbehavior and start making it a habit. • If he is not ready for the situation, take him out of it, partially or totally, trying whenever possible to leave on a success.

Distractions as training tools • Seek out distractions that your puppy can handle. • Make the pup behave and do his exercises in the presence of the distractions. • Obeying when he does not want to obey will teach your puppy self-control and enable him to become consistent in his behaviors wherever he goes and whenever he encounters distractions.

Work on one distraction at a time • Distractions that combine two stimuli at one time (such as strange looking and noisy or moving and noisy) are particularly difficult for any dog to cope with. • Try to work on one stimulus distraction (just strange looking--doesn't make noises or move) when you are selecting new distractions to work around. • After your puppy adjusts to one aspect, then you can add something new to the picture, like noise or movement. ¾ When you go to the bus depot for the first time, go when all the buses are parked and the puppy can just look. ¾ If he is anxious about the vacuum cleaner, make sure it is turned off and stationary before you encourage the puppy to accompany you as you look at it, touch it and even talk to it.

Teach your puppy self control Goal: The puppy is able to exhibit self-control in exciting, new or different situations

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors A Guide Dog puppy needs to learn a great deal of self-control. By communicating clearly with your puppy and by showing him that you are an effective leader, your puppy will learn how to control himself.

Control your Guide Dog puppy by communicating clearly • Use effective praise. ¾ Verbal praise is very important when you are working and walking with him whenever he is behaving appropriately. ¾ Use verbal and/or physical praise (patting, stroking, hugging) when you are at a standstill. ¾ Adjust your level of praise to get better control. * A lethargic or resistant pup is better motivated with stimulating praise. * An excitable puppy is better controlled with quiet praise. ¾ Praise OFTEN for good behavior. ¾ Praise gives your puppy a reason to please you! • Keep the leash and collar loose unless you are administering a correction. ¾ There should be no pressure on the collar unless you are giving a correction. ¾ Tightening the leash will increase your puppy's level of distraction. ¾ Concentrate on keeping a LOOSE LEASH at all times. • Transmit to your puppy that you are in control. ¾ Move slowly with an excitable pup to get more control. ¾ Be deliberate in your actions when handling a puppy. ¾ Relay control through a quiet, calm voice. ¾ Relay control through slow, deliberate hands. ¾ Practice controlling your pup in ever more distracting circumstances. ¾ Be persistent in your efforts to achieve control. ¾ Give effective corrections for the size and temperament of your puppy. ¾ Be consistent. • Watch your puppy. Good handling is anticipating what your pup will do. ¾ Try to be aware of what he is doing. ¾ Try to be aware of what he may be about to do. • Try to identify what things distract or excite your puppy. ¾ Regularly work on those areas. ¾ It's important to be persistent and praise all signs of improvement. • Correct inappropriate behavior as soon as it begins. ¾ The longer you wait before you correct a behavior, the harder it is to stop the unwanted behavior. ¾ Remember to try and anticipate what he will do, so you can be prepared to correct as soon as he starts the inappropriate behavior.

The exercises outlined in upcoming section “6-3 Commands”, when practiced and performed properly, will help give you control that will carry over as the pup matures. The young puppy handling exercises are especially effective.

Puppy handling exercises will help you achieve control of your puppy when started early and practiced at least once daily (excitable pups may need several sessions per day). • “calming sit” with body handling • “Lay-over”

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors • Stand Also, review "3-4 Exercise and Play" in section 3: Caring for your puppy.

Teach your puppy self control around other dogs Goal: The puppy is able to interact appropriately with other dogs.

It is extremely important for a Guide Dog to be more interested in people than he is in dogs. He must be taught to ignore other dogs. Even more importantly, he must learn to view other dogs in a neutral manner, not responding to them with aggression or excessive interest.

The following guidelines have been developed to help you to teach your puppy appropriate attitudes toward other dogs. They will also help to protect your Guide Dog puppy from being injured (even accidentally in play) by other dogs.

If you already have one or more dogs in your home, it's important to protect your Guide Dog puppy from learning inappropriate interactions from those dogs or being injured by them. • Guide Dog puppies are not placed in homes that have overly excitable or otherwise inappropriate dogs. See “Reasons for placing or retaining a puppy in the home” in the Policies, forms and resources section for further information. • Closely supervise your puppy when he is with other dogs. Unsupervised interactions with other dogs are prime causes of accidents and injuries to growing Guide Dog puppies. • NEVER leave your puppy alone with other dogs in the house or yard. • Be sure to enforce Guide Dog puppy rules and instructions with your Guide Dog puppy, even though you manage your other dogs according to different rules. • Do not let your Guide Dog puppy interact in inappropriate ways with your other dogs (such as overly rough play and chase games through the house). Intense play and prolonged roughhousing with other dogs will increase your Guide Dog puppy's attraction to other dogs and his desire to bond with them.

General rules about dog-to-dog interactions • When your puppy is on-leash, never permit him to initiate contact with another dog without your permission. • If you want to permit your puppy to interact with another dog, first release him with an OK command before permitting him to visit. • Remember to supervise your pup's interactions with other dogs. Not all dogs like each other. • Concentrate on keeping the leash loose when other dogs are present. • Leash and collar correct him if he tries to lunge toward other dogs. • Separate the dogs if they begin to play rough; dog-to-dog interaction should be calm. • If he becomes too excited after interacting with another dog, move him away and practice control exercises like a sit or down stay.

If your puppy is very distracted by other dogs: • Practice doing “calming sits” from a distance, gradually moving closer as he shows that he can control himself.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors • When you are in close proximity to other dogs and cannot move away, place him on a sit or down stay beside you when you are standing still. ¾ Concentrate on your puppy and enforce the stay. ¾ Do not allow him to change position unless you release him with an OK or give him a different command.

Anxious or aggressive behavior around other dogs: • If your pup hackles when he sees another dog, stop and quietly smooth down the hackles. Then give him something to do like a Let's go command and slowly and quietly move him around until he calms down. • If he starts to growl or bark, leash and collar correct, then move slowly away from the other dog. Once you get him to stop growling or barking, practice “calming sits” and sit stays beside you to help him regain his self-control. • Once he has calmed down, he should be given the opportunity to sniff the other dog's rear end ("explore" the dog). This will allow him to find out that the other dog won't hurt him. • Contact your leader for more personal instruction.

Safety rules to keep in mind before allowing your puppy "explore" another dog: • Always ask the other person's permission before allowing your pup to "explore" another dog. • Never permit dog-to-dog interaction between two dogs that are either dog distracted or dog aggressive. • Never use this technique when the other dog is off-leash.

Use this technique to permit your pup to "explore" another dog: • Walk your puppy toward the other dog's rear end, remembering to keep the leash loose and to make him walk calmly beside you without pulling. • Then stop and release him with an OK command. • Permit him to briefly sniff the rear end of the other dog, then give him a Let's go command and walk away. • Avoid head-to-head interactions with the other dog during that session.

Teach your puppy to be confident around unusual people, noises, odors and objects Goal: The puppy can accept unusual sights, smells, objects and people without becoming distracted, frightened or out of control.

Since Guide Dogs go everywhere with their partners, they are regularly exposed to unusual people, noises, odors and objects (homeless people, firecrackers, meat markets, upside down tricycle on the sidewalk, etc.). It is very important that your puppy learn to handle unusual encounters with calm acceptance.

You can teach him how to cope calmly with these types of encounters by following these rules: • Read your puppy. Is he distracted or afraid? ¾ If your puppy is distracted, use control (stop and sit him) and praise.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors ¾ If your puppy is afraid, quietly move him back away from the thing he is afraid of until he reaches his "comfort zone" - the distance where he feels comfortable with an unusual occurrence. • Give the puppy time to observe the situation. • If he is hesitant, try approaching from a different direction. • NEVER force a fearful puppy closer to something that he is afraid of or anxious about. ¾ Allow the puppy time to listen and observe the situation. ¾ Allow the puppy time to observe and decide when to move closer. • Be an example by having a calm, positive attitude. ¾ During noises, speak with happy tones, showing your puppy that there is nothing to be concerned about. ¾ If he's afraid of an object, reach out and touch it and talk to it in a positive tone of voice. This will spark your puppy's curiosity to investigate the object. • Remain calm and supportive, but do not reinforce anxiety. ¾ Do NOT "coddle" a fearful puppy with "it's okay... ." ¾ Use confident, happy words to distract the pup from worrying about a sound or odor. • NEVER RUSH A HESITANT PUP. CONFIDENCE at a distance is better than FEAR close to the object. • Praise all success.

Teach your puppy to trust people Goal: The puppy is fully comfortable around a variety of people - both friends and strangers - and trusts that human beings are his friends.

Trust will develop on a day-to-day basis as the puppy learns that you and your family members are consistent, fair and gentle with him as you handle and train him. Another way that the puppy will learn to trust people is through pleasant encounters with the strangers that he meets on a regular basis as you socialize him. Lastly, the puppy's encounters with the members and leaders in your puppy raising group can have a significant influence on his attitude toward people.

Since your puppy raising group members can have such a significant impact on your puppy's attitude toward people, it is particularly important that the puppy be given repeated opportunities to have pleasant, consistent and structured experiences with them.

There are five main types of experiences that can benefit your puppy:

1. Puppy passing 2. Walk-outs 3. Puppy trading 4. Overnight/several day visits 5. Transfers

The first three types of experiences will occur primarily through your puppy's contacts with members at the regularly scheduled meetings. Guide Dogs recommends that puppies below the age of 20 weeks be seen on a weekly basis by leaders.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors After a basis of trust is started at the meetings, these experiences will be reinforced through regularly scheduled visits in members' homes. All of these experiences should follow a schedule that is based on the puppies' progress and response to people. Fearful and anxious puppies should proceed more slowly through the schedule. Bold, active puppies will need to proceed through the schedule more quickly.

Puppy passing Puppy passing is very easy to do: • Form a small circle of puppy group raisers on the floor. The circle should be tight enough for everyone to touch knees. • Then pass all the puppies below the age of 13 weeks from hand to hand around the circle. It's important, of course, to make sure that the puppies are held securely and safely as they are passed so the pups will not become frightened or feel insecure about falling. • As each individual receives a new puppy, he or she should calmly, quietly and sweetly do the puppy handling exercises making sure that both their voice and hands are calm, quiet and loving. • In large groups, no puppy should be handled more than five times. • Puppies that behave in a fearful or anxious manner (shivering or extremely tight in their muscles) should only be passed to one other person the first time and then should gradually be handled by more people as they become more comfortable at the next sessions. • It is particularly important when handling bold, active puppies that they not be handed to the next person until the first person has successfully been able to handle and quiet them. • Puppies older than 13 weeks should no longer participate in puppy passing.

Walk-outs The next phase of building trust is to teach the puppy that it can trust other people to bring it back to you when they take it out of sight. Start the process of walk-outs the week after the puppy passing is begun.

To begin: • Hand your puppy's leash to another handler who first speaks sweetly and gently to the puppy as he gently pets it. It will help if the person crouches down in front of the puppy while talking to and petting the pup. • After "sweet talking" and petting the puppy, the other handler should then start to walk away with it and leave your sight. • It's important for you to stand still in the same spot as the puppy is taken away and for you to be standing quietly in the same spot when the other handler returns with your puppy.

Fearful, sensitive or anxious pups If your puppy is reluctant to go with the other handler the first time, pick your puppy up and hand it to the other handler. • The handler should then carry your puppy out of your sight. After the other handler cannot see you anymore, he should stand and quietly talk in sweet tones to the puppy while holding it gently.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors • After a couple of moments, the other handler should return to you, stopping two to three feet away from you. • Then, he should set the puppy on the ground and encourage it to walk back to you. It is very important that the other handler keeps the leash loose and that he or she refrain from correcting the puppy in any way during this step. • This exercise should be repeated with the first person until the puppy will at least walk all the way back from the spot where the other handler has chosen to stand and sweet talk the puppy. It's important that you proceed in small, steadily increasing increments of distance.

Average pups If your puppy is comfortable walking away with another handler, the handler should refrain from correcting the puppy on this first trip out away from you. • If the puppy walks willingly out of sight, the handler should crouch down once he cannot see you and sweetly talk to and pet the puppy for a moment before returning it to you. • On succeeding trips with other people, mild corrections may be administered if needed for mouthing, pulling or "garbage mouth" behaviors. • Corrections should stop during walk outs if the puppy shows any indication that it is becoming anxious about going with the other handler.

Bold, active pups If your puppy tries to mouth and pull on the leash a lot, then, when the other handler takes him for a walk out, he should administer gentle but firm leash corrections for mouthing, pulling on the leash or "garbage mouth" behaviors. • Even if your puppy is a bolder, active pup, it's still important for the other handler to be very sweet and praise a lot if they have to correct your puppy. They should particularly concentrate on sweet, gentle, slow interactions with the puppy when they step out of your sight to interact with the pup.

Puppy trading After your puppy is comfortable with being passed and walk-outs, the next phase is to begin actually trading puppies. Generally your puppy should begin this process around 13 weeks of age but softer, more anxious pups may need to wait as late as 20 weeks.

To trade, do a walk-out but instead of just stopping and petting, the handler should begin to gently and calmly practice "control exercises" such as the “calming sit” and Come. All of these exercises should, of course, already have been started in your home from the time the puppy is first delivered to you.

Overnight/several day visits Puppies should do an overnight visit in someone else's home at least once in each 90-day period (once every quarter) during their stay with you. Many leaders facilitate and direct puppy trades as a “mandatory” part of raising. All puppy sitters must be trained in Guide Dog techniques and approved by your leader. You should: • Talk to the raiser you are receiving the puppy from regarding any habits, needs or special instructions they may have about their puppy.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors • Keep him on a dragline and make him stay in the same room with you so you can closely supervise his behavior. • Confine him in a safe secure area like a crate or a secure kennel when you cannot supervise him. • Put him on a tie-down while you closely supervise his behavior for at least 15-20 minutes each day during the time he stays with you. • Supervise him closely during his interactions with other people. • Introduce him slowly and supervise him closely during his interactions with other dogs and pets. • Confine him alone (NEVER WITH OTHER DOGS) if you have to leave him. • Offer only Guide Dog approved toys to play with. • Feed him the same food he is accustomed to eating. • Try to maintain his normal feeding and relieving schedule plus a few extra trips outside to relieve; he may not know how to indicate to you that he needs to relieve. • Gently work on the handling and calming exercises to establish that he must pay attention to you. • Socialize the puppy in a manner that is appropriate for his age and level of self- control (you should ask the raiser what they have been doing with the puppy and try to adhere to that type of socialization). This will help make the puppy feel secure.

Prevent obsessions Goal: The puppy is able to make reasonable decisions without becoming distracted.

What is "obsessive" behavior? Obsessive behavior is displayed when the puppy becomes so distracted by something that he can think of nothing else. You probably know a dog that is crazy over something like tennis balls, a favorite toy, or cats, to the point that he becomes so excited and focused that his attention cannot be switched to something else. This type of behavior is what we mean by saying "the dog has obsessions".

Obsessive behavior is particularly detrimental for a Guide Dog because he must be able to make reasoned decisions without becoming distracted. It is very important, therefore, that you do not permit your Guide Dog puppy to develop habits that could become an obsession.

The best way to stop obsessive behavior is to prevent it from developing. • Do not let your puppy become overly focused on certain objects or behaviors. • Intervene quickly before an obsession develops. • Gently redirect your puppy's attention. Give him something to do. Give him a command such as Sit or Down and enforce it or initiate a game that will distract him from his obsession. • Do not play obsession-provoking games such as catching a ball or retrieving an object. • Take away toys that he finds overly interesting. Stop play with that toy before he becomes obsessed. • Do not leave your dog unsupervised with other dogs - this will contribute to his becoming dog-distracted or dog-obsessed. • Control play as discussed in "3-4 Exercise and Play" in section 3:Caring for your puppy.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors • Never encourage any obsessive behavior (like chasing the light from a flashlight or chasing water from a hose). • Be calm. • Be consistent.

Be careful! Once an obsession forms it cannot be erased, only controlled. Immediately contact your leader if you believe your dog is starting an obsessive behavior.

Ball obsession, dog distraction and cat chasing are the three most common obsessions. Some other common obsessions are: Chasing balls Tail chasing Chasing frisbees Chasing objects Chasing leaves and other moving objects Carrying objects Other dogs Barking Other animals Crying Children Pawing Food Digging Applause Chewing or licking his body Cars Water play with sprinklers/hoses Bicycles Guarding toys, food or space Skateboards Chasing lights (i.e. from a flashlight)

Good house manners

Regardless of how well behaved your puppy is in public, if he is a nuisance to live with, he will not make a suitable guide. Therefore, it is very important that you begin early to teach your puppy good house (and yard) manners.

When teaching or correcting house behaviors, follow these general rules: • Read the lessons in section 5: Teaching principles of the manual. • Confine your puppy in the crate or kennel when you cannot watch him. Later, after he learns how to behave on a tie-down, you can also use the tie-down. • Do not let your puppy loose in the house when you are not watching him. • Keep a dragline on him so you will have a means of correcting him for inappropriate behaviors. It is very important to supervise him constantly while he is wearing a dragline to prevent him from becoming entangled and possibly injured or strangled. • Follow him from room-to-room, watching his every move, or make him stay in the same room with you by closing the door or using a baby gate. • Anticipate inappropriate behaviors. • Plan and time your corrections (with your pup attached to a leash or dragline). ¾ Correct all negative behaviors immediately with a collar correction. ¾ Gauge your correction to the severity of the misbehavior. ¾ Gauge your correction to the size and temperament of the dog. ¾ Repeat and escalate your collar corrections until the behavior stops. • Do not "nag" your puppy. If you repeatedly need to correct to stop the same act, you have not gauged your correction properly. Correct harder, change your timing or change the type of correction.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors • Do not use any verbal corrections. • Praise the dog as soon as he stops the negative behavior. • Anytime your puppy spontaneously behaves appropriately (comes to you calmly, lies down calmly, or even walks through the house calmly), praise him.

Teach your puppy not to jump on people A dog that jumps up on people is both a nuisance and a potential safety hazard. It's therefore important to teach your puppy to keep "four on the floor". Two techniques will help you to teach your puppy to keep his feet on the floor when meeting people. • The easiest technique is to require excitable puppies to sit before allowing other people to pet them. A puppy cannot jump up on a person while sitting. If your puppy becomes excited and "forgets" to sit, he will understand a correction for breaking his sit easier than he will understand a correction for jumping on a person he wants to see. • If your puppy wasn't told to sit and he has already succeeded in jumping up on the person, simply give him a Sit command and leash and collar correct him for not sitting if he ignores you.

It's very important that you praise him when he is sitting, even if you had to correct him to get him to sit. • If he had to be corrected for jumping on a person (by using the sit command and enforcing it), ask them not to touch or talk to your puppy until he will sit still calmly beside you. You may need to ask them to not touch him at all (this session) if he remains excitable. • Once he learns not to jump up on people, you can begin phasing out the sit when he meets people.

Teach your puppy not to get on furniture or beds Since your puppy will be accompanying his partner to other people's homes if he grows up to be a guide, it is important that he learn not to get on furniture and beds. Not everyone is comfortable with sharing their furniture with a dog. This behavior is one of many that can be prevented or stopped by close supervision and the use of the dragline. It is very likely that your puppy will attempt to get onto furniture sometime after 12 weeks of age (younger pups may attempt this, but rarely have enough physical agility to get up by themselves). • Never hold a small, young pup on your lap while you are on the furniture. It teaches him that it is all right to be on the furniture. • Make your puppy stay in the same room with you or follow him around as he wears a dragline. • Try to catch him in the act the first time he thinks about getting on a piece of furniture. • Leash and collar correct as he tries to get on the furniture. • Give him lots of praise when he returns all four feet to the floor. • Give him lots of opportunities to practice keeping his feet on the floor. • If you weren't supervising closely enough and he succeeds in getting on the furniture, correct him off. Next time, supervise more closely so you can catch him in the act! • Also, leash and collar correct him for putting his front feet up on furniture. Standing on furniture is the first step to climbing on it.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors Teach your puppy not to race through the house An agile puppy running through the house can be a real safety hazard. For someone with a visual impairment, it can be even more hazardous. Running is an outdoor activity and is not appropriate in the house. It is, therefore, important that your puppy learn to move through the house in a calm, collected manner. • By using his dragline for corrections, teach your puppy not to run through the house. If your puppy begins to run in the house, simply step on his line and bring him to a standstill. Whenever possible, do a “calming sit” to help him regain his self-control. • If your puppy is very persistent about wanting to run in the house, he may not be getting enough exercise. In that case, increasing your puppy's exercise may take care of his desire to run and decrease his attempts to run in the house. • Remember also to correct your puppy and your other dogs for roughhousing/chase games indoors.

Teach your puppy not to chew or engage in other inappropriate oral habits Puppies are very oral. They have a natural need to chew, especially when they lose their baby teeth and their permanent teeth start to come in. Chewing is also a way to stay busy and relieve boredom or normal puppy tensions.

Your puppy really does not care what he chews and, if allowed, could stay busy for hours at a time if he has something to gnaw on. In fact, he can become "obsessed" with chewing. Therefore it is important that you: • Teach him right from the beginning what is okay to chew and what is not. • Give him less and less opportunity for extended periods of chewing so you will gradually wean him from his reliance on it. • Inappropriate chewing can cause many problems. • Puppies who chew inappropriately can be very destructive. • They may experience severe health problems if they ingest pieces of toys or other unsuitable objects. • Puppies who are not weaned from their addiction to extended periods of chewing may experience stress when they cannot indulge in their addiction during training. • Addiction to chewing and other destructive oral habits can cause a dog to be dropped from the program, as dogs with these habits are unsuitable as guides.

It is very important that you teach your puppy not to chew on inappropriate objects and to become accustomed to living without the constant presence of a chew toy. The “Puppy toy and play policy” (see Policies, forms and resources) were developed to provide you with guidance about appropriate toys, play and how to prevent your puppy from becoming addicted to his toys. Please read and use this policy when you provide your puppy with toys and when you play with him.

Guidelines to teach your puppy not to chew or pick up objects: • At first, prevent chewing by keeping valuable or dangerous objects placed safely out of the puppy's reach. • Always be aware of where your puppy is and what he is doing. • Confine him when you are not able to supervise him, but remember that young puppies should not be confined for more than three or four hours at a stretch.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors • Use the following "seeding" procedure to teach your puppy not to pick up, carry or touch objects that don't belong to him. • Use the "stay alone" procedures outlined in this section to teach your puppy to leave things alone when you are not directly supervising him. • Make sure that your puppy has plenty of exercise every day. This helps to control boredom, settles high energy and will cut down on your puppy's need to chew.

Teach your puppy not to pick up objects: seeding and setting up Guide Dogs must be good housedogs. They may not pick up objects or be destructive. They may not seek out or take food from the floor, tables, counters, or from the hand. By seeding the floor and setting up the dog during training sessions, you can teach your puppy to avoid these items. The puppy should not pick up, carry, chew on, eat or lick household items, clothing, shoes, food or anything other than its own toys. Your puppy can be introduced to this exercise at 8 weeks. You should continue to reinforce the behavior for the entire time you are raising your puppy.

Seeding the floor • Pick out a few items, such as shoes, socks, dishtowels, tissue, stuffed animals, dryer sheets, etc., or another item in which your puppy has previously shown interest, but no more than three or four. • Train with this exercise in all rooms to which the puppy will have access. By training in one room only, the puppy will quickly learn that he must avoid these items only within that room. • Place the items on the floor. Begin with spacing them fairly close together -about 18” to 24” apart. Also place approved toys on the floor, as many or more than the forbidden items. Each time you train, space the items a little farther apart, and vary the number and arrangement. • Bring your puppy into the room on-leash or dragline. Allow the puppy to approach and investigate the items. The puppy may briefly sniff or walk over the item. • You may need to stay on the floor with your puppy so you can see when the puppy starts to pick up an object. • If the puppy chooses an approved toy, allow him to play with it for a few minutes. Then, remove the approved toy from the pile for a time to allow the puppy to investigate the forbidden items. • If the puppy attempts to lick, put his mouth over, grab, chew, etc., give a quick pop- and-release correction. Timing is everything. You must get the correction as the puppy makes his move. It's too late if you allow the pup to pick something up and run off with it before you make the correction. By making the correction as the puppy starts to pick up or touch the item with his mouth or nose, he will understand that picking up the item was wrong - this is your goal. • If your correction comes after the puppy already has the object in his mouth, he will only learn that he's not supposed to carry the object. This is good, and it's something the pup should know, but now try to teach the puppy not to pick it up in the first place by making the correction earlier. • If the puppy does manage to get the item in his mouth, do not give a correction, either verbal or physical. Instead, quietly step on the leash or dragline and draw the puppy toward you. When the puppy is directly in front of you, remove the item from his mouth. Do not give a command (such as “out” or “drop”) to release, and do not praise the puppy for releasing the item to you. Take the item and put it away, or put

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors it back to where the puppy found it. Do not give the puppy any attention for the next several minutes after removing the item from his mouth. Puppies often pick up items to gain attention, so we do not want the puppy to receive any attention, either positive or negative, from you. • Often a puppy will repeatedly attempt to pick up an item. Be prepared, and be persistent. Escalate your corrections until the pup abandons his ideas of picking up the object. • Make your corrections firm enough to get the desired response, but no firmer.

Setting up your puppy • Sometimes puppies are too smart for their own good. They quickly know when they're involved in a training session and when they're not. Outsmart your puppy by designing a setup that doesn't look like a setup. Use a dragline or leash to enable you to get effective and timely corrections. For this to work, your puppy will need to have a dragline attached frequently. The puppy should think that an attached dragline is a normal situation. Again, if the dragline is attached only during training sessions, your puppy may realize that he only gets corrections when the line is attached. • Setting up your puppy is similar to seeding the floor. Use one or two objects that you know your puppy just can't resist. Example: If your puppy has a problem with getting into trashcans, then set out a trash can near you while you appear to watch TV, read or do some other normal activity. If the problem is with socks, use a sock or two. This is a good time to practice your acting skills - act nonchalant. Leave a dragline or leash attached to the collar. Anytime the puppy approaches the trash can to investigate, use the dragline to correct him. Remember that this is a training session - pay attention to your puppy. The timing of the correction is critical. • If the puppy does manage to pick up the item, draw the puppy towards you as described in “seeding the floor”. Once again, do not give the puppy a command (such as “out” or “drop”) to release, do not praise the puppy for releasing the item, and ignore the puppy for a few minutes after you remove the item from his mouth. • Often raisers will say their puppy is always good when he's on a dragline and makes mistakes when he's not - that he knows the difference. This is often true, and the solution is simple: leave the dragline on whenever the puppy is free in a room or the house. Even if the dragline is always on, as long as the puppy is not making mistakes, progress is being made. • The purpose of these training sessions is to pattern the puppy to not pick up inappropriate items. Eventually, when the puppy consistently behaves well with the full-length leash or dragline on, a few inches of the dragline can be removed. The goal is to slowly shorten, over a long period of time, the dragline, until it is just a short tab hanging from the collar. Ask for advice from your leader or CFR about how to proceed with shortening the line. • As with seeding the floor, train with this exercise in all rooms of the house.

Setting up your puppy with food • Teaching your puppy not to take food from the hand, floor or table must be handled slightly differently than with non-food items. Food is one of the most attractive items a working dog guide may encounter. Because of this, it is important to teach puppies to avoid people food altogether. • Puppies should be about 12 weeks of age when starting to teach food avoidance. • Use small bits of very enticing food, such as cheese, hot dogs, meat, snack food, etc.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors • Keep your puppy on a leash or dragline. Keep the leash in your hand. • Start with the food in another person's hand, held at the puppy's level. When first training, do not tease or offer the food to the puppy - just hold it where it can be easily reached by the pup. • If the puppy approaches within 6" - 12" of the food in the hand, give a leash correction to stop the pup from sniffing it. A dog's sense of smell is highly developed - he'll know this is food long before he's close to it. The goal with food is to teach the puppy not to approach. Puppies that are allowed to sniff food often eat it before a handler can react. If the puppy stops approaching the food or moves away, praise him. The puppy may repeatedly attempt to get to the food, so be persistent. • As the puppy learns not to approach food in the hand, place food at the edge of tables at the puppy's height. Use the same technique - as the puppy approaches the food, correct him. Praise when the pup stops approaching or moves away. • Once the puppy has an idea that food is to be avoided, you may have people offer food to the puppy. Use the same correction technique as above. If it seems unfair to offer food and then correct when the puppy responds, think about the situations a working guide will encounter. They are frequently offered food by strangers that they must not take. They may frequently be near children or adults holding food in their hands. A working guide's partner may not know the food is present. It is necessary that your puppy learn not to approach food in any situation. • As your pup grows, his nose will be close to kitchen table or counter height. Whenever your puppy sniffs the edge of the table or counter, leash correct him. Sniffing is often preliminary to taking food from the table or counter. If the puppy learns sniffing is not allowed, it is less likely that he will try to take food.

Summary: Puppies should be taught early on that they may not pick up objects or food. They may not take food from hand. With consistent seeding of the floor and setups, puppies quickly learn what is acceptable behavior and what is not. Raisers who are inconsistent and allow puppies to pick up objects without consequences will find that their puppies are slow to learn appropriate behavior. The key to success is proper supervision of puppies at all times to prevent puppies from taking objects in their mouths.

Teach your puppy not to dig Puppies often use digging in the yard or garden as a way to relieve tension or escape boredom. Most dogs consider digging great fun. Because they think it is fun, it can be a difficult habit to break. Again, the key is to prevent it from becoming a habit by supervising your puppy when he is in the yard. This is one time when a loud “no” can be very helpful as you see him start to dig.

If you did not catch him in the act, but find the hole, fill it with one of the puppy's stools before putting the dirt back. This may repel him from digging again in that area, but it will not cure him from digging. Therefore... SUPERVISE MORE CLOSELY. Since the urge to dig occurs at different ages, be very persistent in your supervision to prevent this habit from getting started. Sometimes it can start up long after you thought he had already learned not to dig.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors Teach your puppy not to bark or whine Puppies tend to bark or whine when they get excited (such as when their food is being prepared, there's another dog outside, or visitors come to your door). A certain amount of vocalizing is a normal tendency. However, barking and whining tends to increase as a dog ages, so it is important that you start early to teach your puppy to be quiet, especially when confined or in public.

Guidelines for teaching your puppy to be quiet: • Use a leash and collar correction if he is noisy when he gets excited. (His dragline should be on so you have a handle to use for corrections). • Follow corrections with a “calming sit” exercise to help him regain control if he is a very excitable pup. • Remember to praise when he is quiet. • If your puppy barks at you when you correct him, escalate your correction to ensure that your puppy realizes the seriousness of his misconduct. • Be consistent and persistent about the issue of vocalizing. You may think it is cute when your puppy "talks" to you, but it will only confuse him if you allow him to bark sometimes and correct him for barking and whining other times.

A puppy that barks or whines for no reason while confined in a crate or on a tie-down should be consistently corrected. Did you relieve him first and make sure that he has had his needs for exercise, food and water met?

In the beginning, use these guidelines to deal with barking or whining while crated: • During your puppy's first days with you, ignore crying. If you correct a new, anxious puppy for being scared and lonely, you will just make him more afraid (scared, lonely babies cry). • Do not attempt to soothe the puppy because to do so rewards the crying. • Do not give the puppy food or Do your business breaks unless you think those are valid reasons for his crying (remember to relieve him before putting him in the crate or on the tie down). • Praise the puppy when the crying stops. • At first, take him out of the crate or off the tie-down shortly after he stops crying. Young puppies don't have much patience. Build his tolerance for confinement over a gradual period of time.

After he has had adjustment time (at least several days): • Correct by attaching a tie-down to his collar and running it through the door of the crate. Attach a leash to the tie-down extending from his crate to make the correction easier to do. If the puppy is on tie-down alone, extend a leash away from it. With the end of the leash in your hand, give leash and collar corrections for vocalizing. • Try to administer the correction as he is making the noise. • NEVER leave the tie-down on him when you can't be present to supervise him - he could injure himself. • PRAISE when he is quiet. • After he is quiet, leave the tie-down hanging out of the crate door or the leash extended away from him when he is on the tie-down alone.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors • After he has learned to be quiet with the tie-down or leash connected (at least 30 days with no barking or whining while confined), practice without it on. • Then he will be ready for you to begin the “stay alone" techniques.

House manners The Sit, Down, Stay and Come exercises that you will learn later in this section also will help in controlling house behaviors. Even though we are trying to teach or correct different behaviors, the concept for doing so is the same. They are all best dealt with by using the home training tools, appropriate corrections and preventative supervision.

Teach your puppy not to sniff people, other pets or objects in the environment obsessively or inappropriately The sense of smell is one of a dog's strongest senses, and sniffing is a natural behavior for them. They do it well and with enthusiasm. For most dogs, that's not a problem. It is a problem for guides who must concentrate on their work. Odors can be more distracting than what they see or hear. If a puppy is allowed to engage in excessive and inappropriate sniffing, he may develop a habit that will be very difficult for the training staff to eliminate.

What's excessive and inappropriate? • It's always excessive and inappropriate for your puppy to sniff people or the environment while in public. • It's always inappropriate for your puppy to excessively sniff a person after allowing a brief introduction. • Otherwise, at home or while at play, there is no problem with sniffing as long as he responds to your commands.

How do you teach your puppy not to sniff? The answer is very basic: consistently use leash and collar corrections for inappropriate sniffing.

The correction should occur as the puppy moves his head toward the person, dog or object that he wants to sniff. Whether your puppy raises his head to sniff a table or countertop or lowers his head to sniff the floor, make the correction as he begins to move. It's important to correct this behavior as it begins. If you are attentive and consistent, your puppy will learn quickly that sniffing is not allowed.

There is one time when sniffing is not only permissible but also necessary - when you have commanded your puppy to relieve. For a dog, sniffing the ground and/or bushes is part of the act of relieving. If you correct your puppy for sniffing when you have commanded him to relieve, you will have problems getting him to relieve. Always permit sniffing when you want your puppy to relieve.

Teach your puppy not to charge out of doors or bolt out of vehicles Puppies and guides that bolt out of doors or vehicles will likely be lost, injured or even killed. For their safety, they need to learn early to refrain from proceeding through doorways or leaving vehicles without your permission.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 2/2003 Important Behaviors Techniques that will help you to teach your puppy not to bolt out of doors or vehicles: • Always make your puppy sit and wait until it is released with an OK before allowing it to go out a door. • When your puppy is in a vehicle, make your puppy remain seated (if he is not in a crate or on a tie-down) until you release him with an OK. • Practice sit and down stays inside your vehicle with the door open. ¾ Make sure that you practice this away from traffic so you and he will not be in danger of being run over by cars while practicing. ¾ Make sure you have a leash or dragline on him so you can use effective leash and collar corrections. • Set up sessions to specifically work on not bolting out of doors. ¾ Practice sit and down stays by open doors. ¾ With your dragline on the puppy, prop the door open and correct him for trying to go outside without your permission. ¾ When he is pretty good about ignoring the open door, have someone walk a distraction by the open door (like another dog or a cat).

Teach your puppy not to put his mouth on people or clothing Puppies use their mouths to check out everything, especially each other. Young puppies in a litter will do quite a bit of biting in play. Since you are now part of his "pack," he will try to do the same thing with you. At first this may seem cute and harmless, but his sharp teeth soon will tell you differently. Also, if you ignore it, this will become a normal way of acting or playing with friends and visitors. • When doing the handling exercises, leash and collar correct EVERY TIME your puppy mouths your body or items of clothing. • Strengthen the force of your correction if your puppy persists in mouthing you. • Remember to stroke your puppy slowly and calmly when he refrains from mouthing you. This will teach him to enjoy being handled. • NEVER pull your hand away if your puppy is mouthing you. Instead, leash and collar correct your puppy with your other hand until your puppy lets go. • Remember to then slowly stroke him with the same hand that he was trying to mouth so he doesn't become hand shy. • Use the dragline or your leash to correct mouthing when you are not actively working on the “puppy handling” exercises.

Teach your puppy not to be possessive with toys or food It is very important that your puppy learn not to be possessive about his food or toys. It is your job to teach him to trust people. A distrustful, possessive dog may become aggressive. A possessive dog may attempt to discipline people or other dogs for taking his food or toys. If your puppy displays food possessiveness, even by displaying a tense or protective body posture, feed him alone and have your leader contact your CFR. To teach your puppy not to be possessive, use these guidelines: • Use the feeding procedure outlined in section 3: Caring for your puppy to teach your puppy to trust people around his food. • NEVER encourage people to take your puppy's food away from him or to put their hands in his bowl. • Do not allow other dogs (or your cat) to take his food or to pester him during eating. It will teach him to be defensive because he will believe that you will not protect him from other animals.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 11/2008 Important Behaviors Teach your puppy to ignore people food Your Guide Dog puppy needs to learn appropriate manners around "people food" in order to have a future as a guide.

Training techniques: • At first, work your puppy on a leash near food and correct his interest. • Later, have your puppy wear a dragline around the house when you are there to supervise him so you can correct him from a distance. • When you catch him in the act, correct him for trying to steal food or for trying to get into the trash. • Try to correct him as soon as he sniffs toward the food. • Do not wait until the puppy dashes or jumps for the food. He may be quicker than you are and successfully steal the food. • Every time your puppy successfully steals food, he is being rewarded for his inappropriate behavior and that will teach him to do it again. • If you repeatedly fail to catch your puppy stealing food, you will not be able to change his behavior. • Praise the puppy after you correct him away from the food. • Once your puppy learns that he is not allowed to steal or forage, leave food on the floor or counter edges when he can be watched closely as he wears a dragline. • If you see your puppy making an obvious effort to refuse or ignore people food, praise him.

General rules about people food • Never feed "people food" to your puppy. Feed him only his own food. • Feed your puppy only from his own bowl. Never hand-feed your puppy. • Teach your puppy not to eat off the ground. • Feed him after you have eaten your own meal, not before. • Teach your puppy to stay out of the trash. • Do not let him out of your sight when food (on the table or counter or in the trash) is present. • Put food away and tightly cover the trash when you are not present. • Teach your puppy not to steal food off tables or counters. • See "seeding” and “setting up" earlier in this section.

How's that puppy ever going to have fun? • By playing with his raiser whom he loves so much • By playing with his own toys • By chewing on his own toys • By getting to go places with his raiser that pet dogs are not allowed

Every one of the house manners a guide dog needs is teachable. Inappropriate behaviors, however, will not disappear on their own. If ignored, they will only get worse. The best way to correct those behaviors and to teach appropriate behavior is to approach the task thoughtfully and systematically. • Approach correcting negative behaviors as a challenge. • View them as a game that is won through the use of correct strategies and hard work. • Plan ahead and set up a training schedule to work on specific behaviors.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-1 11/2008 Important Behaviors • If you consistently correct all inappropriate behaviors every time they occur, no matter how busy or distracted you may be, YOU WILL WIN THE GAME!

Your leader and CFR are there to assist you with any issue you and your puppy are having. Always feel free to contact them for advice and assistance.

6-2 SOCIALIZATION

It’s time to take that puppy out!

Taking your puppy out into the world is probably the most enjoyable part of being a puppy raiser. If your puppy is to eventually guide a person with a visual impairment, he must be capable of going anywhere without fear or hesitation.

Puppy coat guidelines Guide Dogs for the Blind provides the leader of each group with green puppy coats in a variety of sizes. We want your puppy to wear this coat whenever he is in public and especially if he is in a place where puppies are not normally allowed. Your leader will provide you with a puppy coat when your puppy is ready to be socialized in public and with each successive size as your puppy grows. • The coat provides a visual explanation to the public as to why your puppy is in an area where dogs may not normally be allowed. • The coat is a symbol of the work of Guide Dogs for the Blind and the puppy raising club to which you belong. • Do not allow any dog or puppy other than your Guide Dog puppy to wear the puppy coat. • Remove the puppy coat before commanding your puppy to relieve, to prevent him from possibly soiling it. If he does start to relieve while wearing his coat, just ignore it. Wash the coat later. Next time, watch your pup more closely so you can remove the coat before he starts.

Public places State laws vary regarding granting public access to guide dog puppies. Regardless of state law, and in accordance with Guide Dogs for the Blind policy, Guide Dog puppies may only have access to public or private places where they are granted willing admittance or inclusion by the proprietor, manager or staff of the business, facility or service.

Before you go any place where dogs are not normally allowed, such as a restaurant or supermarket, be sure to contact the management to get permission to enter. Whether they agree to permit you to enter or not, thank them for their time. It is always a good idea to send a thank-you note when they do cooperate by allowing you and your puppy to come in.

A NOTE OF WARNING: never leave your puppy unattended in a public place - even if it is only for a moment to run inside and ask for permission to enter. Unfortunately, puppies left alone may be stolen, mistreated, or get into mischief.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-2 2/2003 Socialization • Never leave your puppy in the car unattended even if the puppy is in a crate. • Never force your puppy into any situation or toward anything that frightens him. ¾ Always allow your puppy to accept the experience slowly, at his own pace. ¾ If your puppy hesitates, stop for a while and allow him to look things over from a distance. ¾ Calmly praise and reassure him and wait for him to become curious enough to want to go nearer. • Always keep an eye on your puppy and watch his reaction to something unfamiliar. ¾ He probably will look at it from several sides, try to get a good smell of it, and will come slowly closer until he is satisfied it will not hurt him. ¾ Then he will suddenly ignore it and act as though it never frightened him in the first place. • Never reinforce frightened behavior. ¾ Always allow your puppy to learn about new sounds, objects or places at his own pace. This means that if your puppy pulls back, whimpers, or shows any signs of fear, don't coddle or 'baby' him by petting him or telling him "It's okay". This could reassure him into thinking that it is all right to be afraid. ¾ Instead, pull back from the situation, quietly talk to him and settle him down. ¾ Then slowly re-approach, and let him become comfortable on his own. ¾ When he starts to explore this new situation, be sure to praise him.

Be aware of how people treat your puppy • Never allow anyone to tease your puppy. Teasing could make your puppy distrustful or aggressive toward strangers. • Don't allow your puppy to jump on friends or visitors, or to beg food from them. Be firm and explain to them that your puppy is being trained for a special purpose and that his training must NEVER be broken. • Only people approved by your leader should puppy-sit your puppy.

How to socialize your Guide Dog puppy • Provide step-by-step experiences that are age appropriate. • Select single-stimulus experiences to introduce something new. ¾ Example: Try to avoid exposing your puppy to a new object that moves and/or makes a noise at the same time. • Be patient. Never force. Progress at the puppy's acceptance level. • Never use noise or verbal threats as a correction. • Provide the puppy with appropriate leadership by your example. • Don't console him if he is hesitant or fearful. • Have a neutral, matter-of-fact attitude about things that frighten the puppy or make him uneasy. • Be consistent; have the same behavioral expectations every time. • Be fair; balance corrections and praise. • Corrections should be appropriate for the situation, the age, size and temperament of the pup. • Work to develop a respectful relationship. • Start early to teach your puppy to be attentive to you. • Use practice, persistence and praise.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-2 2/2003 Socialization • Read the puppy and observe his reactions; respond according to how the puppy is acting and feeling. • Use praise for attempts as well as for success. • If the distraction overwhelms the puppy, retreat to a distance the puppy is comfortable with.

Socializing/outings dos and don'ts for puppies below 20 weeks of age Do: • Follow the “Puppy socialization guide” listed on the following pages. • Take your young puppy (below 20 weeks of age) to places where he can receive some socializing experiences. Use the "quick in and out" method of socializing new or young puppies. Just do a quick walk into a building, stop 1-3 paces inside the door, look around and then turn and leave. This is just long enough for the puppy to have a "look around and leave" before an 'accident' occurs! • Progress to sitting at a bench inside a mall as the puppy gets a little older but still may not be 100 percent housebroken. He can sit and take in all the activity without the added stimulus of walking. • Do not take your young puppy (below 20 weeks of age) to areas with high dog traffic: public parks, rest areas, pet shops or pet supply houses that either sell dogs or permit dogs to come into their store, grooming shops, school playgrounds or places where sick dogs have been. • Do not let your new puppy walk into the vet's office or relieve outside the vet's office until after he has completed his vaccination series. Carry him in and hold him on your lap.

We want you to introduce the puppy to many types of people, places and things, however not all socializations and outings are appropriate for every puppy. Some types of socialization and outings may put the puppy at risk for contracting disease if he has not had all of his vaccines. Other types of socialization and outings may be too overwhelming for a young or sensitive puppy. Below is a list of age related types of socialization/outings. If the outing or socialization is not on the list and you are unsure about taking your puppy please contact your leader.

8-9 Wks 9-10 Wks 10-11 Wks 11-12 Wks 12-16 Wks 4-6 Mo. 6+ Mo. CFR APPROVAL Younger than 5 mo.: Never CFR Airline travel Never Never Never Never Never Older than 5 Approval mo.: CFR Approval CFR Amusement parks Never Never Never Never Never CFR approval approval CFR Dog shows Never Never Never Never Never CFR approval approval CFR Fireworks display Never Never Never Never Never CFR approval approval CFR Gun ranges Never Never Never Never Never CFR approval approval CFR Professional sporting events Never Never Never Never Never CFR approval approval CFR CFR CFR CFR CFR CFR School CFR approval approval approval approval approval approval approval Any unusually loud, crowded, CFR CFR CFR CFR CFR CFR high-speed, multi-stimulant, or CFR approval approval approval approval approval approval approval otherwise unusual activity NEVER APPROVED Wild animal parks and zoos Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Amusement rides including Never Never Never Never Never Never Never carousels Escalators/moving sidewalks Never Never Never Never Never Never Never ANIMALS Adult dogs (dogs known to be OK OK OK OK OK OK OK calm, friendly & has vaccines) Puppies (at puppy meetings) OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Cats/kittens OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Small pets OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Birds OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Livestock OK OK OK OK OK OK OK PEOPLE Young adults OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Middle aged adults OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Elderly adults OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Disabled/odd gaits OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Loud people Never OK OK OK OK OK OK Big looming people Never OK OK OK OK OK OK Uniformed people OK OK OK OK OK OK OK People in costumes Never OK OK OK OK OK OK People in hats OK OK OK OK OK OK OK People with beards OK OK OK OK OK OK OK People with glasses OK OK OK OK OK OK OK People with helmets OK OK OK OK OK OK OK People with gloves OK OK OK OK OK OK OK People with umbrellas Never OK OK OK OK OK OK Babies OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Toddlers OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Juniors OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Teens OK OK OK OK OK OK OK PLACES A big city (downtown) Never Never Never Never Never OK OK A small town (downtown, quick in/out shops) no parks or high OK OK OK OK OK OK OK dog areas Ballgames Never Never Never Never Never OK OK Car rides OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Evening walks OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Friend’s homes OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Outside a school yard OK OK OK OK OK OK OK

8-9 Wks 9-10 Wks 10-11 Wks 11-12 Wks 12-16 Wks 4-6 Mo. 6+ Mo. Parks Never Never Never Never Never OK OK Public beaches Never Never Never Never Never OK OK Restaurants OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Riding in a car in a crate and OK OK OK OK OK OK OK riding in different cars OK quick OK quick OK quick Ok quick OK quick Shopping centers OK OK in/out in/out in/out in/out in/out The vet Carry in Carry in Carry in Carry in Carry in OK OK Walks at dusk OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Warehouse store (Costco etc) Never Never Never Never Never OK OK THINGS Bikes, skateboards & skates Never OK OK OK OK OK OK Ceiling fan OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Crate OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Elevators Never Never Never OK OK OK OK Flags/tarps blowing Never OK OK OK OK OK OK Grates OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Household appliances OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Lawn equipment Never OK OK OK OK OK OK Public transportation Never Never Never Never Never OK OK Shopping carts OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Slippery floors OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Stairs OK OK OK OK OK OK OK Tie-down OK OK OK OK OK OK OK TRAFFIC Residential – w/sidewalk light traffic oncoming with buffer Never OK OK OK OK OK OK (such as vehicles) Residential – light traffic from behind with buffer (such as Never Never Never Never OK OK OK vehicles) City sidewalk or sidewalkless – Never Never Never Never Never OK OK moderate traffic Big city – heavy traffic Never Never Never Never Never OK OK Bus stops Never Never Never Never Never OK OK Parking lots Never OK OK OK OK OK OK

Never= Do not socialize OK=OK to socialize

Never take your puppy on socializations/outings that are not approved by Guide Dogs for the Blind. These include: Animal parks and zoos Amusement rides (all rides including carousels) Dog parks or off-leash dog areas Escalators/moving sidewalks

You must have approval from your CFR prior to taking your puppy on the following socializations/outings: Airline travel Amusement parks Dog shows Fireworks displays Gun ranges Professional sporting events School

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-2 2/2003 Socialization Travel out of state or away from home for more than one week Any unusually loud, crowded, high-speed, multi-stimulant, or otherwise unusual activity

Teach your puppy to walk calmly up and down stairs It's very important for a guide to negotiate stairs quietly and calmly. A Guide Dog that is fearful or anxious on stairs can be a real safety hazard. To teach your puppy to negotiate stairs calmly introduce stairs using this method: • Going up: Start your puppy by placing him at the top with his front feet on the landing and his back ones on the first step below the landing. He may need to be carried up to the top step to start this procedure. • Going down: Start the puppy at the bottom by placing his front feet on the ground and his back ones on the first step above the ground. He may need to be carried down to the bottom step to start this procedure. • Encourage him to make the one step onto the landing or onto the ground. • Praise his success. • Gradually move farther up or down the steps as he becomes more relaxed. • Praise all success.

Some general rules about negotiating stairs: • Never force a puppy to go up or down a flight of stairs. • Gradually introduce different types of stairs as your puppy gains more confidence. • Do not let him charge up or down the stairs. Keep a short but loose leash to maintain control. • Develop a calm, steady pace on stairs, remembering his future duties as a guide. • Walk safely when on stairs. Protect your safety by holding the handrail.

Teach your puppy to be relaxed on new surfaces Your goal is to teach your puppy to walk on new or different surfaces in a relaxed and confident manner, maintaining a normal or slower pace. He should never stop, speed up, jump or veer off to avoid any surface. Surfaces he should experience are stairs, grates, manhole covers or any odd surface such as tile floors or gravel.

Introducing new surfaces • Slow down when approaching the new surface. • Hold your leash short, but loose, to maintain control. • Be prepared to stop if your pup wants to investigate the new surface. ¾ Allow your puppy the time to look, sniff, and investigate the new surface. ¾ Lowering his head and some sniffing is acceptable while walking onto a new surface. • Do not rush your puppy to walk on the new surface. ¾ A puppy will be much more willing to walk on a different surface if you allow him a moment to investigate it. ¾ Verbally praise his investigation of the surface. This will give him an incentive to continue checking it out. • Praise his tentative steps onto the surface. ¾ Avoid rewarding fear or anxiety by soothing; instead, be neutral and calm. • Do not drag your puppy onto or across the surface. • Never allow your pup to jump around the new surface.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-2 2/2003 Socialization ¾ Keep the puppy lined up towards the surface. ¾ Patiently give him time to advance. ¾ Praise him as he walks across the surface. • As the puppy becomes more comfortable with the surface, control rushing or sniffing. • Don't forget to PRAISE!

Teach your puppy to be confident around traffic As in all types of socialization, exposure to traffic should be done slowly and systematically. A hurried, premature exposure to heavy traffic can develop insecure reactions in your puppy that could affect his ability to be a successful guide. The following guidelines will help you teach your puppy to be confident around traffic: • Avoid exposing very young puppies to heavy traffic. • Very young puppies (8-12 weeks) that appear afraid can even be held while observing heavy traffic, giving them a more secure feeling. • Select traffic exposure sites that have a natural "escape route" away from traffic, so you can remove your puppy from the traffic if he is becoming worried or uneasy. • Closely watch your puppy when you are beginning his exposure to traffic. • Move away from the traffic if you observe your puppy showing any signs of worry. • If your puppy is inadvertently exposed to a traffic situation that has made him uncomfortable, talk to your puppy in a confident tone of voice to distract him as you slowly move away. Be careful not to console or soothe him. • Exposures to heavy traffic may need to start as far away as 40 yards.

Beginning traffic exposure Try to expose the puppy at a distance far enough from the traffic to maintain confidence. For some puppies that can be five yards and for others it may be 20 yards. • Start by selecting a low-traffic street in a residential area. • Progress to streets with higher traffic levels only after your puppy is totally comfortable at the first level. • All progressions to faster, heavier traffic should be done slowly. • Begin by sitting on a bench with the puppy sitting next to you on the ground. Position him so he is facing the street. Allowing the puppy to just be still and observe the traffic will develop his confidence that the traffic will not harm him. • Next, have him sit next to you while you are standing on the sidewalk closer to the traffic. He still should be facing the street. • Progress to walking around traffic only after your puppy is comfortable watching or ignoring the traffic when you and he have been sitting or standing still. • It is advisable to work toward oncoming traffic when you first start, placing yourself between the traffic and the puppy.

Teach your puppy to ride calmly in vehicles Guide Dog puppies need to ride calmly and comfortably in vehicles. Once a puppy has returned to Guide Dogs for formal training, it is almost impossible to improve his car- riding behavior problems. The responsibility is on the raiser to adequately socialize the puppy to car transportation.

Vehicle riding behavior problems may be caused by a variety of reasons: • Poor experiences during the first few trips may frighten the puppy.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-2 2/2003 Socialization ¾ The puppy slips and bumps as the car turns or breaks. ¾ The crate holding the puppy slides or rolls. ¾ His first car trips are only to the veterinarian or a kennel. ¾ He is regularly exposed to driving practices that frighten him, such as sharp turns, sudden braking, bursts of speed or the vehicle bottoms out, scraping metal against pavement. ¾ He's involved in a car accident. ¾ The puppy got his foot, tail, etc., closed in the door. • Some puppies have naturally "soft" temperaments. ¾ They inherently do not have the self-confidence to overcome different challenges. Even with the best efforts, some riding problems cannot be cured.

The rules for teaching car riding: • Gradually introduce your puppy to car riding. • Introduce him step-by-step, as in other socialization experiences. • Do not introduce your puppy to car riding soon after it has eaten. This can cause discomfort and lead to the habit of vomiting during the trip. Make sure the pup has plenty of time to digest his meal and plenty of opportunity to relieve before any trips. • Do not cuddle or soothe a puppy when he is behaving in an excited manner. • Try not to get angry or upset if the puppy gets frantic or sick. • Don't advance to the next step until the puppy is completely calm with the step he is on. • Do not attempt to force the responses you want. • If the puppy is not traveling in a crate, he should be on a leash while traveling in a vehicle. • If you are the driver, take someone else in the car to control the puppy. Until well settled, the puppy (on the floor) should be accompanied by a handler who can ensure his stability and manners. • Control the puppy with his leash if he bolts or attempts to move around within the vehicle. • Praise all calm behaviors.

Use the "steps method" to teach appropriate vehicle riding We have outlined a nine-step approach to exposing your puppy to vehicle riding. Here are some points to consider during this process: • The puppy should ride in a specific 'place' and not be allowed to move about in the vehicle. This can be in a crate or on the floor in front of a seat (not in the front if the vehicle has a passenger side air bag). See “3-5 Trains, planes and automobiles: Transportation of program and career change dogs” in section 3: Caring for your puppy. • It's important that the surface the puppy is on is not slick so the puppy has traction and won't slip. • Expose the puppy GRADUALLY to noises and experiences inside the vehicle that may startle him or cause discomfort - radio, heater, or air conditioner. Hot air suddenly blasting on a puppy's back could be a reason for him not wanting to get into the car next time. • Steps one through three (below) are meant to return 'home' as a positive destination. Keep in mind that other destinations also need to be positive. If the puppy's first few trips are to the veterinarian for his 'shots' only, his early impressions of a car-trip

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-2 2/2003 Socialization may be negative. Early in his socialization, be certain that you make it fun to arrive, no matter where you're going. • When traveling by car, always keep in mind your puppy's manners. Don't allow him to stick his head out of the window, crawl all over the seats, bolt into or out of the vehicle, etc.

Using the "steps" process • No matter what the reason for the behavior, the steps of exposure are the same. • Do not move to the next step until the puppy is consistently relaxed with the present step. Consistent means five to ten repetitions. • If a puppy has trouble when moving to a new step, go back to the previous step for a longer period of time. • Closely observe the puppy's behavior when going to a new step. This is a common time for problems to arise. • Resist the temptation to rush through a stage. No harm will come by progressing slowly - but problems can develop by going too fast. • If problems continue, contact your leader for help.

Steps of exposure to vehicle riding

Step 1: Introductions - "Meet Mr. Car" Engine off. Allow puppy to investigate vehicle. Enter vehicle and put puppy in his 'place' (crate or spot on floor). Stay in vehicle with the puppy about five minutes or until he settles down. Praise him a lot and make it fun! Exit vehicle when pup has been still and quiet.

Step 2: "Mr. Car makes noise and vibrates" Engine off. Enter vehicle; puppy sits in place. Pause (1-2 minutes). Engine on. Stay in vehicle five minutes. Praise. Engine off. Stay in vehicle one minute. Exit.

Step 3: "We're moving" Engine off. Enter vehicle and put puppy in place. Pause one minute. Engine on. Stationary one minute. Short (around the block), cautious ride ("cautious" means smooth, gradual accelerations, braking and turns). Praise, praise, praise… return home. Engine off. Stationary one minute - exit.

Step 4: "Are we there yet?" Engine off. Enter vehicle and put puppy in place, pause a moment. Engine on. Stationary 30 seconds to one minute. Cautious ride for 10 to 15 minutes with pleasant destination (grandma's, friend's home). Engine off, pause - exit. Repeat procedure for trip home.

Step 5: "Still going…" Trip home, engine off. Enter vehicle, put puppy in place, pause a moment. Engine on. Stationary pause. Cautious ride for 15 to 30 minutes. Pleasant destination. Engine off, pause - exit. Repeat procedure for at least several days (until he is consistently comfortable).

Step 6: "Hard to keep your balance"

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-2 2/2003 Socialization Engine off. Enter vehicle and put puppy in place. Turn engine on. Stationary pause. Cautious ride for about five minutes. Normal ride for 10 to 15 minutes ("normal" means normal braking, accelerating and turning, not crazy). Destination - engine off, pause - exit. IMPORTANT: Evaluate any change in behavior with normal ride. Problems? Immediately go back to cautious ride.

Step 7: "But it's running!" Engine on. Door open. Approach from a distance (at least 10 yards). Allow puppy to investigate. IMPORTANT: Evaluate any change in behavior. Problems? - Engine off, allow puppy to investigate… repeat procedure - Enter vehicle, put pup in place, pause. Normal ride for 30 minutes to one hour. Destination - engine on. Pause for a moment - exit with engine on.

Step 8: "Is this a foreign or domestic?" Repeat Step 4 with a different vehicle.

Step 9: "I'm a traveling pup…made a lot of stops…" Repeat Steps 5 through 7 with various vehicles.

Riding in vehicles? "No problem!" Please realize that progress sometimes can be slow. DON'T GET DISCOURAGED! Give your puppy your best effort and be proud of it.

Key concepts to remember: • Introduce new vehicles to your puppy without rushing. Allow the puppy to investigate or observe the vehicle before entering. • If the puppy seems worried, enter the vehicle with the engine NOT running. The puppy must be comfortable without the engine running before it can be relaxed with the engine. • PRAISE your puppy for accepting the vehicle and riding quietly. • CONTROL your puppy if he is trying to bolt through the doors or moving around a lot while riding. Manners while riding are a must when on crowded city buses and light rail trains. • Take your time in gaining a puppy's confidence around a running motor if it shows fear. Do NOT try to force the puppy closer than its "comfort zone" allows. COMFORT ZONE is the distance from the vehicle that your pup is comfortable. • Continually look for opportunities to give your puppy exposure to a variety of vehicles, not just your one family car.

Negative behaviors to watch for and report to your leader: • Tenseness • Shaking • Dripping from nose • Drooling • Vomiting • Excessive panting • Resistance to entering the car • Attempts to climb out of the car

Remember these safety rules: • Do not allow your puppy to ride in the front seat or on the front floorboard of a car equipped with passenger-side air bags. • Give the puppy a safe place to ride in the vehicle (crate, on-leash or tie-down). • Do not leave your puppy unattended in a vehicle. • Do not roll windows down so far that the puppy could potentially escape from a moving or stationary vehicle. • Do not allow puppies the potential to interfere with your driving by leaving them loose in the vehicle or unattended by another person while you drive. • Never permit your Guide Dog puppy to ride loose in the back of a pickup truck.

Pointers from the veterinarian When you take your puppy out, weather may be an important factor. If it is very uncomfortable for you, it can be dangerous for your puppy. During hot weather, his footpads can be burned by very hot pavement. Puppies can over-heat and dehydrate quickly. It is best for your puppy to "lay low" during the hottest hours of a summer day. Remember to provide plenty of fresh, cool water. Early signs of heat stress in your dog may include lethargy, excessive panting, anxious behavior and dark red gums. A cool water soak for your dog can reduce his body temperature after playing too hard in hot weather.

In a parked car, temperatures can rise to dangerous levels within a few minutes. NEVER LEAVE YOUR PUPPY ALONE IN A CAR. The safest and surest way to protect your dog is by leaving him at home in a reliably cool setting whenever the temperature is too high.

Teach your puppy to be calm when examined by the veterinarian • Encourage your pup to act friendly towards strangers (the vet) and accept their touch by PRAISING your pup for allowing other people to touch his entire body. • If your pup is not relaxed with YOU touching all parts of his body, don't expect him to accept a stranger doing so. ¾ Practice examining your puppy as a part of daily grooming. ¾ Remember also to regularly do your puppy handling exercises. • Use your leash and collar to gain control if your puppy is too friendly or too excited. • Start by having him sit and stay while people approach, go past him but do not touch him. Remember to correct as he BEGINS to wiggle. • Once he can control himself when being approached, begin allowing people to lightly touch him, remembering to leash and collar correct if he tries to get up or leave. • Once he will sit still for light touches, allow people to gradually begin "examining" him more thoroughly. • Finally, when he is comfortable being examined while sitting, repeat the procedure while he is standing (it may take several sessions before you can practice this exercise while he is standing). • PRAISE your pup for the correct behavior WHILE he is being examined.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-2 2/2003 Socialization • If the vet wants to feed your dog a tidbit… "JUST SAY NO", and inform them that your pup must not take food from the hand. He may only take food out of a bowl. Use a bowl for the tidbit if a vet wants to give one to your puppy after examining him.

6-3 COMMANDS

Preparing your puppy to learn commands

Puppy handling In order to become a better dog trainer you need to improve your skills as you teach your puppy. You will find that the puppy will progress as much at your speed as at his. We have all seen an experienced dog handler take a puppy and control it easily after someone else - even the dog's owner - has had problems trying to make it mind properly. The trainer is successful not because he possesses a magic wand that he secretly passes over the puppy's head. He is successful because he has developed dog-handling skills that are more effective than those of the beginner. By combining these physical skills with the psychological concepts of training, everyone can improve their training techniques.

Training commands for raisers

The following commands should be preceded by the puppy's name. For example, "Juno, Let's go” or “Juno, Come".

1. Sit: The command to use as you make your puppy place his rear haunches on the floor. 2. Down: The command to use as you make your puppy lie on the ground. 3. Stand: The command to use as you gently require your puppy to stand quietly for grooming. 4. Let's go: The command to use as you require the puppy to walk on your left side on a loose leash. Keep the leash loose by using leash and collar corrections when he tries to pull. 5. Come: The command to use as you cause your puppy to come close enough to you to allow you to gently grasp his collar. Be sure to praise him every time he comes to you and allows you to grasp his collar. 6. Stay: The command to use when you make your puppy remain in a specific spot and position until you release him with the command word OK. 7. Wait: The command to use when you make your puppy refrain from entering or exiting vehicles or going out a door until he has received your permission (you say OK).

The following commands do not have to be used with the pup's name. At times, however, it may still be useful to use your puppy's name to get his attention and to let him know that you are speaking to him.

8. OK: The command to use when you want to release your puppy from any prior command (Puppy, Sit...OK). Remember not to release your puppy by praising him. Instead release him with OK, and then praise him. 9. Kennel: The command to use as you place your puppy in a crate, tell him to enter a vehicle or small space, such as under a table or between seats on the bus.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 2/2003 Commands 10. That's enough: The command phrase to use as you make your puppy stop playing or stop being too active. If he doesn't want to stop when you use That's enough, use a leash and collar correction followed by an enforced Sit until he calms down. 11. Good-dog, boy/girl: The commands to use when you want to praise your puppy. When used with the correct tone and enthusiasm, the puppy will feel pleasure when he hears praise. 12. Do your business: The command phrase to use when you wish your puppy to relieve. After he has learned what the command means, its use will indicate to the puppy that now is the time and here is the place to relieve himself.

OK Appropriate age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 8 weeks. By the time he is 3 months old, he should be able to obey this command consistently.

Purpose: Dogs that are acting on a command need to know when they are no longer required to perform the action. The command OK releases them from the action. By giving a command, it becomes the handler's decision to end the exercise and not the dog’s.

Objective: When the command OK is given, the puppy will discontinue obeying a previously given command.

Procedure: • Use this command at the end of all exercises in which you have told your dog to do something. Examples: Sit, Down, Stay, Stand, Come. • When you no longer need or want the dog to perform the exercise, give the command OK. • Induce the dog to get up or move out of the position required for the exercise. Once the dog is no longer performing the exercise, praise. • Always end exercises with a command. Do not allow the puppy to decide on his own when the exercise is over. • The puppy should remain under control even though he has been released from a command. No lunging, pulling, inappropriate play or vocalization should be allowed.

That’s enough Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 8 weeks. By the time he is 5 months old, he should be able to obey this command consistently.

Purpose: Puppies need to learn that there are some kinds of behavior, such as play, that are acceptable but must be stopped on command. Use That’s enough to stop play or other acceptable behavior.

Objective: When playing, the puppy should stop the play and not solicit more play when the command That’s enough is given.

Procedure: Introduction –

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 2/2003 Commands • To introduce your puppy to this command, put his leash on and then play calmly with him for a brief period using hand play (interactive play). It is best to get to the puppy’s level by sitting on the floor or in a chair. • To stop the play, give the command That’s enough and remove yourself from the puppy by standing up. • When the puppy stops the play as you stand, calmly praise him but don’t touch him. • If the puppy does not respond and continues to solicit play, further remove yourself by walking away or use a leash and collar correction for rough or overly solicitous attempts to promote more play from you. • After a brief rest period, resume play with the puppy and then repeat the process. You want the puppy to understand that play is permitted and that you control the activity, but it must stop on command. To accomplish this, the cycle of play, then stopping play, must be repeated several times in each training session.

As your puppy progresses – • Play with your puppy, using hand play or tug-of-war. As usual, the puppy’s leash should be attached to his collar. • Before the puppy is tired of the play, end the play session. Give the verbal command That’s enough. If the puppy continues to play, immediately follow with a leash or collar correction to stop the play. If the puppy does not respond to the correction and continues to solicit play, repeat the correction until the play is stopped. • Praise the puppy for stopping the play. • If the puppy solicits play after pausing, repeat both the command and correction. • After a brief rest period, resume play with your puppy and repeat the process. • When your puppy’s play becomes too rough or rowdy use a leash or collar correction to stop the play. Immediately return to calm play after the rough behavior stops. The puppy needs to learn that playing is acceptable, but rough play is not. If you correct a puppy to stop rough play and don’t return to acceptable play, the puppy will interpret this as a correction for any play. • Always remove the tug toy from your puppy’s access after you have ended a play session.

Summary: Puppies often like to play much longer than do people. Since playing is an acceptable activity at appropriate times, it is necessary to teach a puppy that it must stop play on command. The command to use in this situation is That’s enough. It should be taught in training sessions, not just at the end of regular play sessions. This is different from teaching a puppy that an activity is not acceptable, for which we use leash and collar corrections. This command is not to be used as a verbal correction; i.e. a substitute for ‘no’. It is a command used to stop allowable behaviors. (See “5-4 Know about “no”).

The “calming” and “hand-placed” sit Appropriate age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 8 weeks. By the time he is 3 to 4 months old, he should be advancing to sit on command.

Purpose: To condition and prepare the puppy for sit on command.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 2/2003 Commands Objective: The puppy should learn the association between the command Sit and the placement of its body in the sitting position.

Procedure: • Start in a quiet, non-distracting situation • Sit on the floor with your puppy in front of you. Be sure that the pup has good footing and that the surface is not slippery. • Begin by calming yourself. Your puppy can pick up on your anxiety or frustration. He can also recognize your calmness, confidence, and control. He will mimic the attitudes he senses in you. • Place your puppy in the standing position facing away from you, between your legs spread in a “V” pattern or sit on your knees. Put the puppy as close to your body as possible. In this way he can’t back away from you. • Grasp the puppy's flat collar over the neck with one hand. • Always use a soft calm voice when you speak to your pup. Do not use your voice to correct him. Keep talking to your puppy throughout the exercise, teaching him to relax. • Place your other hand behind the pup's rump. Gently tuck the puppy's legs underneath him while applying gentle upward pressure on the collar. • As the puppy is placed into the sitting position, say the word Sit in a normal tone of voice. Do not raise the volume of your voice or change its tone to sound like either a correction or praise. • Move your hand from under the rump to above the tail. As long as the puppy remains sitting, apply no downward pressure to the hind end. The hand is there as a reminder that he should remain sitting. You may use the hand to prevent the pup from standing. Slowly relax the upward pressure from the collar. • Verbally praise the puppy calmly yet with enthusiasm. You want the puppy to know that he's right (even though you did all the work!). • Don't let your puppy stand up the moment he sits down - keep him sitting there for a few moments. • When ending the exercise, give the release command of OK as you allow or induce the puppy to get up. • Do not verbally correct the puppy. You want the pup to remain as comfortable and calm with the situation as possible. • As your puppy relaxes and calms, begin to manipulate his various body parts: lift his feet and examine his toes and nails; lift his ears (Labs, Goldens and Lab/Golden crosses) and gently place your finger inside the ear canal; reposition his head and look into his eyes; hold and manipulate his tail. Regularly return to the slow, calm stroking to keep the puppy relaxed. • Place a finger inside the puppy’s mouth and gently massage his gums. With the mouth closed, raise the pup’s lips on each side and inspect his teeth and gums. Open his mouth and visually inspect his teeth and gums on the inside. • Gradually increase the length of sessions from an initial few minutes to as much as five minutes as the pup’s confidence and maturity grow. • Practice this exercise several times a day.

Summary: Teaching your puppy the association between the command Sit and the placement of his body into the sit will enhance his ability to quickly learn the sit on command. Making

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 2/2003 Commands this a pleasant experience for your puppy will make him willing and eager to please you, and in the process it will make it a fun experience for yourself.

Sit on command Appropriate age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 8 weeks. By the time he is 5 months old, he should be able to obey this command consistently. Your puppy should be thoroughly familiar and comfortable with the hand-placed sit before beginning this exercise.

Purpose: Guide Dogs need the ability to sit calmly, without moving, while waiting for their partners.

Objective: The puppy will learn to sit in place, unaided, with a single command and without moving or lying down, while on-leash.

Procedure: • First, you and your puppy must be proficient at the hand-placed sit, coupled with the command. • Place the leash in your right hand. Hold the leash at the clip on the collar. • Give the command Sit in a normal tone of voice. Do not raise the volume of your voice or change its tone to sound like either a correction or praise. Most important, say it only once. • When you are first teaching this exercise, you may cue your puppy with a light touch on the rump. Do not apply pressure or push the rump down. If you use this cue, give it at the same time you say the command Sit. • If your pup has been well conditioned with the hand-placed sit, he probably will immediately plunk his rump on the ground. If he doesn’t respond within two seconds, give a light pop-and-release correction straight upwards with the leash and firmer pressure with your left hand on his rump. • If your puppy still does not sit, do not repeat the command Sit. Give a firmer upward correction with the leash and increase the correction and hand pressure on your puppy’s rump until he sits. • Once your puppy is sitting, verbally praise the puppy calmly yet with enthusiasm. You may also give calm and quiet physical praise. Let your puppy know he's right. • If your puppy decides to lift his bottom off of the ground before you say OK, then give another light upward pop-and-release correction with the leash. Repeat the command Sit at this time. You want your puppy to learn that when on-leash, he can't get up until you say he can. Pay very close attention to your pup - you want to catch him in this mistake as he starts to make it. If he manages to get all the way into a stand, then start the sit exercise over and pay better attention the next time. • If your puppy starts to lie down, use the same technique as above to correct the problem. Again, make your correction as he first starts to lie down, not after he's made it to the floor. If you have trouble making him rise, take a step forward to bring him up with you and start over.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 2/2003 Commands • When ending the exercise, give the release command of OK as you allow or induce the puppy to get up. Later, he may be taught to rise and move forward with the Let’s go or other command. • Don't expect your puppy to sit for long periods of time on slippery surfaces. His feet will slide out from under him and he will have to work at staying in a sit. Until the puppy really knows what is expected of him, this is uncomfortable and also unfair. • Remember to stay calm and relaxed through the training session. Use the leash to make your corrections, not your voice. Keep your voice in a normal tone when giving commands, and give calm verbal praise. • Each time your puppy sits when he is told, he must be praised. Praise as eagerly as you can, but not so much that he excitedly breaks his sit.

Summary: Through consistent handling and training, your puppy will quickly learn to sit on a single command. Do not use a raised or corrective tone of voice when giving the command. If you do, your puppy will quickly learn that he only has to sit when you get mad. Give corrections as the puppy starts to make a mistake, not after the inappropriate action is completed. And above all, stay calm and focused on what you are trying to accomplish. Make this training session an enjoyable one for both you and your puppy!

Lay-over Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin this exercise at 8 to 12 weeks. At approximately 10 weeks of age, begin transition to the “hand-placed down”. By the time he is 4 to 6 months old, he should be advancing to the down stay.

Purpose: This exercise introduces the puppy to the down position and also helps teach him the proper relationship between people and himself.

Objective: The puppy will remain calm and compliant for a period of time while on the floor in front of the handler.

Before attempting this exercise, it is best to obtain personal instruction with your puppy from your leader, CFR or other qualified person.

Procedure: • Sit on the floor. • Place your puppy, sitting, on the floor or table in front of you. • With the puppy facing forward (as in the “calming sit” exercise), place your right hand, fingers pointing down, on the puppy’s right shoulder. Loop your thumb through the collar. • Pass your left hand underneath the pup’s left front leg and gently but firmly grasp his right elbow and upper arm. • Gently and slowly roll the puppy onto his right side keeping hold of his elbow and moving his leg out. Holding his elbow this way will prevent him from getting his leg underneath him, which would give him leverage to resist being placed, and kept, in a down position.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 2/2003 Commands • If the pup does manage to stand up, place him back into a sit and lay him over again, keeping calm and quiet as you do so. • As the pup lies on his right side, legs pointing away from you, keep your thumb or fingers through the collar to maintain control and keep the pup on the floor. If the puppy struggles, calmly and firmly restrain him. Keep hold of his left elbow to prevent him from getting his leg underneath him. • If your pup growls, mouths, or becomes excited while on the floor or table, use a collar correction to stop the inappropriate behavior. Do not pull your hand away if the puppy attempts to mouth it; use a collar correction to stop the behavior. • As the puppy begins to settle and calm, use your voice in a quiet, confident tone to praise and support the improved behavior. Refrain from using verbal corrections such as ‘no.’ • After the pup begins to relax, use the left hand that was holding his elbow, to gently stroke him. Use long, slow motions down the length of his body. • At the age of 8 weeks, the pup should only be expected to lie quietly for 15 to 30 seconds. By the age of 10 weeks, the puppy should be able to lie quietly and calmly for several minutes. Do not push the pup to his limit each time you do the exercise. Never let him up if he is struggling. Periodically allow the puppy to successfully complete the exercise by ending it before he has reached his limit. • When ending the exercise, give the release command of OK as you allow or induce the puppy to get up. • Repeat this exercise two to four times, depending on the puppy's progress. You may play with the pup or work on other exercises between rounds. It is also helpful, especially when the pup is very young, to have lay-over sessions two or more times per day. • Be sure to work on both sides of the puppy with this slow, smooth, stroking technique. To place him on his left side reverse the procedure above.

Summary: Through calm, quiet and confident handling and verbal reinforcement, you can teach your pup to lie calmly and quietly. The ability to lie quietly in many different situations is essential in a Guide Dog. The younger this ability is taught, the easier it will be for the puppy to learn and accept it.

Hand-placed down Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 10 weeks. By the time he is 4 to 6 months old, he should be advancing to down on command.

Purpose: To condition and prepare the puppy to down on command

Objective: The puppy will learn to associate the command Down with the placement of its body in the down position.

Procedure: • Sit or kneel on the floor with your puppy. Place your puppy in a sitting position next to your left leg facing forward.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 2/2003 Commands • Place your left hand, fingers pointing down, on the puppy’s left shoulder and hook your thumb through the puppy’s collar. With your right hand gently grasp the puppy’s right foreleg. • As you push on the pup’s shoulder with your left hand, slowly pull his right leg forward; he will fold into a down position. Say Down in a normal tone of voice as you do this. Do not repeat the command. • Move your right hand to his collar and hold it lightly to prevent him from getting up. • If the puppy tries to get up firmly hold onto the collar and hold him in position, keeping your left hand and forearm on his shoulder area will help. • Gently and slowly stroke him with your left hand while he maintains his position. Praise him calmly and quietly. • Do not allow the puppy to stand or sit immediately after he is placed down. Expect him to remain for a few moments. • Release your puppy with an OK command, or later with a Let’s go or other command. • Do not verbally correct the pup if he tries to get up, just calmly place him back into position and praise him quietly when he is still. If he rises, you may repeat the command.

Down on command Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 4 to 7 months. By the time he is 6 months old, he should be able to obey this command consistently. Your puppy should be thoroughly familiar and comfortable with the “hand-placed down” before beginning this exercise.

Purpose: Guide Dogs need the ability to lie calmly in place, without moving, while waiting for their partners.

Objective: The puppy will learn to lie down, from a sit or a stand, unaided, with a single command and without moving or getting up, while on-leash.

Procedure: • First, you and your puppy should display efficiency with the Sit command before teaching the down on command. • With your puppy's leash attached to his collar, have your puppy sitting on your left side, facing the same direction as you, with his shoulder next to your left leg. • Place the leash in your right hand. Hold the leash at the snap on the collar. • Give the command Down in a normal tone of voice. Do not raise the volume of your voice or change its tone to sound like either a correction or praise. Most important, say it only once. • When you are first teaching this exercise, you may cue your puppy with a light touch on his shoulder area. If you use this cue, give it at the same time you say the command Down. • If your pup has been well conditioned with the “hand-placed down”, he probably will immediately lie down. If he doesn't respond within two seconds, give a light tug with the leash straight down, under his chin. To accomplish this you will need to hold the leash at the snap on the collar. As long as he is moving steadily downward, you don't

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 2/2003 Commands need to correct again. It is important that he respond quickly to the command, but he doesn't need to lie down quickly as long as he keeps moving. • For the exercise to be complete, both elbows must be on the ground. • If your puppy still does not down, give a firmer straight down correction with the leash and direct his body to the ground with firm pressure on his shoulders until the puppy responds by lying down. • Once your puppy is down, verbally praise the puppy calmly yet with enthusiasm. You may also give calm and quiet physical praise. Let your puppy know he's right. • If your puppy decides to get up before you say OK, then give another light downward pop-and-release correction with the leash. You may repeat the command at this time. You want your puppy to learn that when on-leash, he can't get up until you say he can. Pay very close attention to your pup - you want to catch him in this mistake as he begins to make it. If he manages to get all the way into a sit or a stand, then start the down exercise over. Pay better attention the next time. • When ending the exercise, give the release command of OK as you allow or induce the puppy to get up. As he learns other commands, such as Let’s go, you can also use these to release him. • If the puppy rolls over on his side to get more comfortable, that's ok. He may do this once. But if the puppy rolls again, then get him up and start the exercise over. Puppies often will roll around or on their backs in play or in an effort to avoid doing the exercise. Sometimes this is a submissive gesture in puppies, rather than playfulness or avoiding the exercise. Tucking his tail, laying back his ears or softening his eyes may be signs of submissiveness. • If your puppy creeps forward, give a pop-and-release correction towards his back end, level with the floor. If you allow a puppy to creep forward for any reason other than one stretch to get comfortable, they will quickly learn that they can take advantage of the situation to get where they want. It can also make the down stay more difficult to teach. • Remember to stay calm and relaxed through the training session. Use the leash to make your corrections, not your voice. Keep your voice in a normal tone when giving commands, and give calm verbal praise.

If your puppy knows the command but refuses to comply • Place your puppy on your left side, sitting, facing the same direction as you. • Stand beside your pup. • Hold your puppy's leash at the collar with your right hand and place your left hand over his shoulder blades, controlling his body. • Give the command Down (in a normal tone of voice) and immediately give a straight pop-and-release correction followed by a steady and continuous pull toward the ground but at a slight angle. At the same time you continually and steadily push his shoulders to the ground. The angle will help unbalance the pup and make it harder for him to resist going down. Do not release the pressure of your collar pull or shoulder push until he is lying down. As soon as the puppy is fully on the ground, praise him sincerely. • Don't immediately release him from your control. A foot on the leash and/or a strong but calming hand on his back will help him stay in position. Talk to him calmly and soothingly to help him relax. Keep him in the down position for a few moments before you release him. • Repeat the exercise.

Summary: Through consistent handling and training, your puppy will quickly learn to down on a single command. Some puppies will be less willing to accept the position of down than others. Do not use a raised or corrective tone of voice when giving the command. If you do, your puppy will not learn to respond to a normal tone of voice. Give corrections as the puppy begins to make a mistake, not after the inappropriate action is completed. And above all, stay calm and focused on what you are trying to accomplish. Make this training session an enjoyable one for both you and your puppy!

Stand Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 8 weeks. By the time he is 6 months old, he should be able to obey this command consistently.

Purpose: Guide Dogs often need to stand calmly while being groomed, examined, or having their harness placed on them. This exercise prepares them to stand in place while being handled.

Objective: The puppy will learn to stand in place without moving, sitting or lying down.

Procedure: • While walking along slowly with the puppy on your left side shorten the leash in your right hand by taking hold of it closer to the pup’s collar. • At the same time reach over the puppy’s back and place your left hand on his outside leg, palm flat against his stifle (the round bony part at the front, just below where his leg joins his flank). • Putting just enough pressure on his leg to stop forward movement, say the command Stand in a normal tone of voice as you come to a halt. If the puppy tries to sit pull gently forward on the leash, parallel to the ground. Praise the puppy calmly but sincerely; you want him to know that he is right. • Once the puppy is standing still, remove your hand from his leg and gently rub his tummy; this will help keep him standing. Do not grab or try to hold the puppy up under his stomach; this is a sensitive area and rough handling could make him fearful. • Should he try to sit, put light pressure on the leash forward and place your hand back on his stifle to prevent him from bending his leg. Forward pressure on the leash and gentle pressure on his leg will hold him in a standing position. • To get the puppy into a standing position from a sit, lead him forward with the leash and put your left hand on his stifle once he is up, saying Stand as you do so. • Keep your pup standing for a few moments. Gradually increase the length of time that he’s expected to stay standing. • As your pup becomes familiar with the exercise, a light touch on his stifle, along with the command, will be enough to position him, and an occasional stroke on his tummy will remind him to keep standing. • If your puppy tries to move out of position calmly hold him there as described above. Do not correct him verbally or physically; just place him in the position and praise.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 2/2003 Commands For wiggly puppies doing this next to a wall, with the puppy between you and the wall, will help him understand what is required. • When your pup is very familiar with the exercise, you may begin to do handling exercises similar to those in the ‘calming sit’. Eventually, you may also stand up yourself and expect him to remain standing.

Summary: Teaching your puppy to stand calmly while being examined will greatly reduce the stress of your puppy's visits to the veterinarian. It will also increase your pup's confidence and reliability when handled by others for grooming, examinations or when equipment is placed on him. Teaching this exercise at a young age will reduce the difficulty of getting a big dog to stand when he's "not in the mood." Calm, confident handling and praise will reduce both the length of time it takes the pup to learn the exercise as well as the difficulty of teaching it.

Let’s go Appropriate Age: Your puppy can be introduced to the leash 8 weeks to 10 weeks. Between the ages of 9 weeks to 10 months, he should be learning the command. By the time he is 5 months old, he should be able to obey this command consistently.

Purpose: Guide Dogs must be able to walk calmly and under control beside the handler in all situations.

Objective: The puppy should learn to walk calmly and under control at your left side, without lunging or pulling, in all types of distracting situations.

Procedure: Introduction to the leash: The primary purpose of your first sessions with your puppy on-leash will be to teach him awareness of you as a handler and to get him accustomed to the leash. Encourage the puppy to focus his attention on you. Work to develop "collar response" in your new puppy. Start with your 8-week-old puppy on-leash in an environment that is not very distracting, such as your lawn, large open room, etc. • With your puppy on-leash, go for a "stroll". If the puppy lunges forward, runs toward distractions, or gets upset with the restriction of the collar and leash, give a light pop- and-release correction to stop this behavior. Remember that the correction is meant to stop the behavior, not relocate the puppy to where you want him. • If he gets upset with the restriction of the collar and leash, calmly wait out the struggles by applying firm, steady pressure to the collar and leash until he relaxes. Don't pull - just wait, applying steady pressure until he relaxes. Praise him when he calms. • After the correction is made, the response you want is for the puppy to look back at you and acknowledge your presence. When he does, praise the puppy. Let him know he's right. If the puppy moves toward you, all the better. You can add physical praise as well. The puppy is now learning that staying close to you is correct.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 2/2003 Commands • As your puppy becomes more familiar with the responses that are correct and expected, you can venture further into the world. Short, leisurely walks in the neighborhood are appropriate. Avoid going places that will be too stimulating for the puppy - where he is unable to periodically focus back on you.

Learning the Let's go command: The puppy now has a good idea that he is not allowed to pull at the leash, and that you want him to be aware of where you are and what you are doing. You have taught the puppy this by praising him when he responds to and acknowledges you. Now you can teach him that he must always be aware of you and never pull at the leash. • As your puppy grows, proper leash technique will become more important. Hold the leash in your left hand so that the leash remains slack between your left hand and the collar when the pup is next to your left side. If there is any tension on the leash or collar, you are not using the correct technique. • You may put the balance of the leash in your right hand, but be aware in some circumstances that this may restrict your ability to make effective corrections. You may also fold the handle end of the leash and carry it in your left hand. Do not wrap the leash around your hand. • Position the puppy on your left side, facing the same direction as you. A good position from which to start is with the puppy's right shoulder next to your left leg. You may start with the puppy standing or sitting. • Give the command Let's go in an enthusiastic voice. Walk forward. If the puppy does not step out with you, give a light forward pop-and-release correction with the leash. Be sure that the correction is made forward and parallel with the direction you are going. As the dog responds, immediately praise the puppy to get him to maintain focus on you. • The puppy does not have to maintain an exact position next to you. The primary objective is for the puppy to remain close to you and in control. However, it is usually easier to maintain control and keep the pup's attention when the puppy stays back with his shoulder next to your leg. When the puppy is ahead of you, his mind is often elsewhere and it makes it more difficult for him to know when you are turning, stopping, or changing pace. • Most puppies will want to move too far forward and, if allowed, will pull and strain at the leash and collar. To prevent this, you must give timely pop-and-release leash corrections. • If the puppy begins to move too far forward, with your left hand give a leash correction backwards and parallel to the puppy's body. Do not wait until the puppy has already pulled forward to tighten the leash - make the correction as the puppy starts to move too far out of position. • If the puppy does not respond to the first correction, give another, firmer correction. It does no good to give repeated, ineffective corrections. Increase the firmness of the correction until it is effective. • If the puppy does reach the end of the leash or the collar tightens, you will need to put slack in the leash before you can make another correction. You can do this by moving in the direction of the puppy to get slack in the leash and then make the correction. Do not just pull the pup back towards you - make sure you get an effective correction. • If the puppy drifts away to your left, give a leash correction to the right, across and in front of you.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 2/2003 Commands • If the puppy lags behind you, read your puppy's attitude to determine if the problem is that he is worried about something or just not paying attention. • If the pup's ears are pinned back, the tail is low or between the legs, your puppy may be worried about something. If this appears to be the case, use a positive and confident voice to encourage the puppy to keep up with you. Do not use a reassuring voice or tone. • A light forward leash correction may be appropriate, but be aware that with some concerned or worried puppies a correction can be counter-productive. If the puppy is just not paying attention, give a leash correction forward and encourage the puppy to keep up. • Do not give an upward correction for mistakes in this exercise - an upward correction is for sit, not Let's go. • Unlike many basic pet obedience classes, it is not required or encouraged that your puppy automatically sit when you come to a halt. The puppy may remain standing, but should stay close to your side and under control at all times. • If the puppy continues to walk forward when you come to a halt, give a leash correction backward as described earlier, as you are slowing to a stop. Do not wait to give the correction after you are stopped and the puppy is three feet in front of you. The puppy should stop with you. • Whenever the puppy is doing a good job - maintaining position next to you, maintaining focus on you and not pulling or lunging forward, let him know through regular praise that he is right. Use an enthusiastic voice. Remember that there is a difference between enthusiasm and volume - a loud voice is not necessary to express enthusiasm. If you are quiet, boring and not focusing on the puppy, the puppy will be less likely to maintain his focus on you. • Be aware of where your puppy is and what he is doing at all times. Watch where you are going and be ready for distractions with which your puppy may have trouble. Anticipate problems that your puppy may have. • Remember that the corrections you give are not meant to relocate him to the correct position; they are meant to tell him he's not paying attention to you. The correction should stop the wrong behavior and the puppy should move back into the correct position on his own power. Don't drag your puppy around, and don't let your puppy drag you around. • If you are having problems maintaining control of your puppy, seek help from your leader and CFR. There are other control techniques that may be appropriate for your puppy.

Summary: Properly introducing your puppy to the leash and leash control early will teach the puppy to focus on you. It will also teach proper collar response. The earlier you begin training leash control, the easier it will be to control your puppy as he grows. Your puppy should work on a loose leash at all times. Always pay attention to your puppy - your puppy won't focus on you if you don't pay attention to him.

Come (The Recall) Food Rewards for Recall Training These guidelines are for your puppy as he starts the food induced recall training program.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands Food reward based training is very successful but consideration must be given to a guide puppy’s future responsibilities when utilizing this method. Everything possible must be done to prevent your puppy being distracted by food. You may have to work harder on exercises to ensure that your puppy does not assume that he can take food from any human hand, and to prevent scavenging off the floor. If done correctly, your puppy trained with food will be well mannered in the presence of food and understand that he may only accept food from your hand in specific circumstances.

The Food Induced Recall covers the specifics of what, where and when to give the food reward. Those instructions should be read over before commencing with every step in the recall training. If you are concerned with your puppy’s interest in food or you see an increase in food-distracted behaviors, your leader and CFR should be consulted.

Your puppy should take the food gently when offered. If your puppy is grabbing the food offer the kibble from a cupped palm rather than between finger and thumb. You may hold the food in a tight fist and slowly open your hand to present the food. If your puppy insists on snatching at the food he will benefit from further work on how to take food appropriately; your leader should be consulted on methods to teach your puppy to accept food in a reasonable manner.

Your puppy must not be allowed to eat dropped food off the floor. • If food is accidentally dropped, you should step away from the food as quickly as possible drawing your puppy by the leash or collar and walking backwards. In most cases of dropped kibble, you will already be holding onto your puppy’s collar; making control simple. • While you hold onto the collar with one hand, your other hand can reach behind into the pouch for another piece of food to offer to your puppy. • Your puppy must not be lured away from the dropped food by you waving another piece of food at him. The new piece of kibble is given from between your knees as your puppy is being praised for coming away from the dropped food. • It is wise to step at least 6 feet away from the dropped food before rewarding to prevent your puppy from darting back to the dropped food. • The dropped piece of food should either be picked up by an assistant or you should pick it up and place it back in the pouch. You must never offer the piece of dropped food directly to your puppy.

Bait bags should be made out of cloth or leather and have a way to close them. A simple pouch, with a Velcro closure and clip, to attach to your belt or waistband, is an acceptable alternative to a commercially available bait bag. Pockets and plastic or paper bags are not alternatives to a bait bag or fanny pack. It is preferable that the bait bag is loaded and attached behind your waistband before getting your puppy out to work it. We don’t want the bait bag to become a cue to your puppy. You should be aware that the bait bag will become a focal point for your puppy if care is not taken in its handling. It should be stored well out of your puppy’s reach and sight when not in use.

The food induced recall has greatly increased the success of our puppies in learning the ‘Come’ command and is of tremendous help in preventing ‘keep away’ issues. With these guidelines any negative effects of working with food rewards are minimal and are vastly outnumbered by the positive effects that food reward training brings. If your puppy’s

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands behavior is deteriorating due to food distractions, your leader or CFR should be consulted as soon as possible. Early intervention is key; your leader can help get your puppy on the right track and make these exercises successful and enjoyable.

Appropriate Age: The food induced recall should begin as soon as you get your puppy. He should advance quickly through ‘on-leash food induced recall: phase 1’ at 8 to 10 weeks; ‘on-leash food induced recall: phase 2’ at 9 weeks to 4 months; ‘two handler food induced recall’ at 10 weeks to 5 months; ‘long-line food induced recall’ at 4 months to 12 months and ‘off-leash food induced recall’ at 5 months to 12 months. Puppies will vary in their response and it is important not to proceed until each step is successfully accomplished.

Purpose: It is easy to appreciate how important a reliable recall is to someone that is visually impaired; at any time, under many different circumstances, it may be necessary to call a Guide Dog and know that it will come. Remember that a visually impaired person may not be able to see if the dog is responding to the command to come. It can even be a safety matter for both dog and handler. This may be the most important exercise your puppy will learn. The use of food to motivate your puppy to come to you will not only make teaching this command more successful, but it will also help in avoiding ‘keep away’ issues as he matures.

Objective: Your puppy will reliably and happily come directly to you when called, even with distractions. The puppy should come close enough for the handler to hold the collar, and it is desirable for the puppy to gently touch (but not crash into or jump on) the handler.

Equipment: • Flat collar or training collar; this exercise is never taught on a headcollar. • Six foot leash initially. Long lines and drag lines later. • Bait bag or fanny pack that can be attached at the handler’s back waistband. • A portion of your puppy’s regular kibble.

Procedure: Universal do's and don'ts when teaching the recall: • Do use a calm, pleasant and friendly tone of voice at all times. • Do move calmly and slowly when you need to approach your puppy. • Do use enthusiastic verbal and physical praise when appropriate. • Do praise your puppy for coming to you, even if you were going to him to correct him. • Do reach for your puppy's collar and praise every time he approaches you. This conditions your puppy to expect a hand reaching towards him and creates a positive association with an outstretched hand. • Do not bribe your puppy by waving food at him • Do not call your puppy to you to correct or discipline him. • Do not run after, lunge for or grab at your puppy. • Do not call your puppy to you when you are going to do something he may not like, such as baths or nail clipping.

Don't use the word ‘Come’ unless your puppy is coming to you anyway, or you have a leash or line attached to cause him to come to you. For daily off leash handling of your puppy use his name, ‘puppy, puppy’, ‘this way’ or other motivational words to bring the pup to you. Until your puppy has completed all the steps successfully, the come response is ‘trained’ only when he is on leash or a line and you are prepared with food rewards.

Use of Food in the Recall: It is important that whenever you give your puppy a food reward he receives lots of verbal and physical praise (petting) just before and during the reward; we want him to associate the praise with food rewards. The food reinforces the verbal and physical praise.

Your puppy’s regular kibble is the only approved food to use on this exercise. If your puppy is not motivated by his dog food you must talk to your leader; he or she will then consult with the CFR for advice.

You must take a portion of your puppy’s daily ration to use for training. This way you can ensure he is not getting too much food.

While training, the food must be on your person, out of sight of the puppy. A fanny pack or pouch attached behind you works well. Food may not be stored in pockets. Rustling plastic bags can create a distraction and should not be used.

Your puppy should only receive one kibble at a time. The kibble should be held between first finger and thumb or cupped in the palm of your hand when offering to the puppy.

Great care must be taken to ensure the puppy only takes food from your hand. He must be prevented from getting dropped food off the ground.

The food reward is given from one hand while your other hand holds your puppy’s collar. As the food is brought to the puppy’s mouth the collar must be held onto. This prevents your puppy from leaving as soon as he gets the food and also prevents him from getting dropped food off the floor.

The food reward is held between your legs, at knee level or lower depending on the size of your puppy, so that he must put his head through your legs to reach the food. This encourages your puppy to make body contact and makes it easy for you to take his collar.

The food reward is brought to the puppy from out of site where it is hidden in a back pocket or fanny pack. The only exception to this is in the very beginning stages (see below) when the puppy may be lured with a single piece of kibble in the hand.

Initiating Taking Food From the Hand: This exercise is only done the very first time you introduce your puppy to the food induced recall. Some puppies have difficulty accepting food from the hand and must be shown how to take and eat the piece of kibble.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands Your puppy must be on leash when you introduce the food. Hold his collar with one hand (to prevent him from eating dropped food off the floor). Hold one piece of kibble between finger and thumb in the other hand and put it right in front of the puppy’s nose, let him smell it. Praise him when he does and encourage him with your voice to take the food. He may fumble with his mouth, not sure how to get the food. Gently help him take the food. Be prepared for him to drop the food a time or two. Lure him away from dropped food with another piece of kibble.

Some puppies may find it easier to eat the piece of food out of your cupped palm. Try both ways and see what works best for your puppy.

Repeat several times until your puppy gets the idea of taking a piece of kibble from your hand and eating it. It will only take a minute for him to get the idea then you can move on to the recall.

If your puppy grabs your fingers or snatches the food with his teeth, scraping your hand, speak to your leader or CFR about methods to teach him to take food gently.

On-leash Come: Phase 1: Do this exercise twice a day for approximately 5 days. In this phase the food is used as a lure to show your puppy what you want. It is important to dispense with the lure technique as soon as possible and move on to phase 2. Most puppies will move through this first step quickly and easily. • Work this exercise with your puppy on-leash. At first you may have to call your puppy from very close to you, i.e., half a leash length away. • Have a piece of kibble ready in your hand. • Begin in a familiar area with no distractions. Allow your puppy to wander and his attention to drift. When your puppy is no longer paying attention to you, say the puppy's name (to help regain his attention) and give the command ‘Come’. Say the command one time only, and use a happy tone of voice. • If your puppy begins to move toward you when the command is given, praise immediately. If he does not respond immediately, he should be lightly guided toward you with the leash. • Walking backwards while praising your puppy enthusiastically will encourage him to keep moving towards you. • Continue to praise as he gets close to you and hold the piece of kibble in front of his nose, at his level so that he doesn’t jump up. Draw him between your ankles or knees, depending on the size of the puppy, with the kibble and calmly grasp his collar with your free hand as he eats the food. • Keep praising him verbally and pet him for allowing you to hold onto his collar. • Release the puppy from the exercise with an ‘OK’, and allow him to again drift away from you. • Repeat this exercise several more times. Don’t work your puppy for more than a few minutes at a time.

On-leash Come: Phase 2: Now your puppy understands he is going to get a food reward for coming to you. From now on, you need to physically praise your puppy by petting him for a count of ten

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands seconds before reaching into your bait bag behind you and giving him a piece of kibble. The verbal and physical praise will be reinforced with the food reward. • Call your puppy with his name and the command ‘Come’. • Gently guide your puppy toward you with his leash if he does not respond. • Praise verbally as soon as he responds and walk backwards encouraging him toward you. • Calmly take hold of his collar with one hand and pet him with the other hand for ten seconds, continue to verbally praise him. • After ten seconds of petting, keep hold of the collar with one hand and give your puppy a food reward; reach into your pouch and lower one kibble between your ankles/knees to give to him. Praise him as he is eating the kibble then release with an ‘OK’. • As your puppy becomes familiar with the command, begin to add distractions when training. Start with minor distractions. • When your puppy comes reliably (no leash guidance needed) when on-leash with minor distractions, begin using more distracting situations. If your puppy has difficulty bringing his attention back to you, then you are making the situation too difficult for him – reduce the level of distraction so that he can be successful.

Two-handler Come: This exercise teaches the puppy that he must come to anyone that calls him. It is done on-leash/line with the handlers about six to ten feet apart. Both handlers should have a supply of kibble in a fanny pack or bait bag attached behind them. • Handler ‘A’ should hold the puppy on the ground, facing Handler ‘B'. Handler ‘A’ should not pay any attention to the pup; Handler ‘B’ holds the leash. • Handler ‘B’ calls the puppy as described in the ‘on-leash recall’. When the puppy gets to Handler ‘B’ he is given a food reward in the manner described above in phase 2. • The leash is quietly handed to Handler ‘A’ as the puppy is being praised and petted by the person who called him. After praising and rewarding the puppy for coming Handler ‘B’ becomes calm and uninteresting to the puppy, thus making it easier for Handler ‘A’ to get the puppy’s attention. • Handler ‘B’ stops the praise and play and faces the puppy toward Handler ‘A’. • Handler ‘A’ then calls the puppy, repeating the exercise. Four or five repetitions are sufficient. • As the puppy progresses, the handler holding the puppy does not need to face the puppy towards the other handler, and may eventually keep playing with the puppy as a distraction. • As in the on-leash recall, if the puppy fails to respond to the command ‘come’, he should be guided by the leash to the person who called him. • Two leashes may be attached to the pup's collar so that the handlers do not have to pass the leash back and forth. • Never use the puppy as a ‘yo-yo’. Allow the puppy time to be adequately praised by each person participating in the exercise.

Before moving to the next step: At this point in training the ‘Come’ command the food is never visible to your puppy. It is preferable that your puppy is called, praised and held by the collar in front of the you,

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands as close as possible, while you reach around to your supply and take out a piece of food. Remember to feed him low down between your legs.

If your puppy is relying on the leash to guide him to you and not responding to your voice cue alone, you need to look at why he is not responding:

• Are you making the situation too distracting and not being fair to your puppy? • Is your voice tone wrong or perhaps you are not using enough verbal praise? • Is the kibble not motivating your puppy, perhaps he would respond better to a toy reward or higher value food? (Consult with your leader.) • Perhaps your puppy is ready for more of a leash pop correction than a gentle guide. If you are sure your puppy understands what is required, and the situation is not too difficult for him, a leash correction may be warranted, but should always be followed with lots of praise and a food reward.

Sometimes, when your puppy has worked through a particularly difficult training session, maybe being called away from an exceptionally hard distraction, he deserves a ‘jackpot’. A jackpot reward is multiple pieces of kibble given all at once and is a huge motivator. Five to six pieces of kibble are sufficient for a jackpot. The jackpot should not be overused or it will lose its value to the puppy. Keep the jackpot reward for those special times when he really deserves it.

Long-line Recall: • Do not begin this exercise until your puppy does a reliable on-leash recall, with distractions, by coming toward you on the first command without needing any leash guidance. • Raisers who are not familiar with the use of a long-line should receive instruction from their leader before attempting this exercise. • The long-line should be 15 to 25 feet in length. It may be a rope, nylon-leash material, or a retractable leash designed for this purpose. When using some types of rope or leash material, it may be advisable to use gloves to prevent a rope burn. • Begin in an area with no distractions. Allow your puppy to wander and his attention to drift. Do not allow your puppy to put too much slack in the line - this will cause you to lose control of it. • When your puppy is no longer paying attention to you, say his name (to help regain attention) and give the command ‘Come’. Say the command one time only, and use a happy tone of voice. • If your puppy responds and begins to move toward you, praise enthusiastically. Continue to praise as your puppy moves toward you. Backing away from your puppy will encourage him to come towards you and will also make it easier for you to gather the long-line. Once he reaches you, take his collar and praise and pet him for a count of ten seconds. Continue holding his collar and verbally praising while you reach behind you for a kibble. Give him the food low between your legs and pet him as you continue to hold his collar. Release him with an ‘OK’ when you are ready. • If your puppy does not respond to the command, or if he responds initially and then loses his focus and drifts away, give a pop-and-release collar correction. To accomplish this, you must reel in excess line as the puppy approaches. (A ‘Flexi-lead’ retractable leash will do this automatically.) As he focuses on you and moves in your direction, verbally praise.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands • When your puppy reaches you, complete the exercise as with the on-leash come. • When your puppy is consistently responding and coming all the way to you with no leash guidance, introduce minor distractions. As your puppy succeeds with minor distractions, gradually increase the level of distraction.

Random Reinforcement: At this point in training the recall you should introduce ‘random reinforcement’. What this means, briefly, is that your puppy does not get a food reward every single time he comes to you; it becomes random. You will still praise and pet your puppy every time, taking hold of his collar and using stroking and patting to reward him. You may reward him with a piece of food on the second or third recall or do four recalls with no food reward then give him a ‘jackpot’. If you see your puppy’s response diminishing consult with your leader, perhaps you introduced random reinforcement too soon or your puppy is one of those that will have to be weaned off regular rewards more carefully. Your puppy should still receive multiple food rewards in each training session, even when on a schedule of random reinforcement. It is not necessary to wean him off food rewards totally.

After weeks of consistent responses on the long line, with random reinforcement, your puppy is ready for the next step.

Transition to off-leash recall: Go back to food rewards every single time as you work through the transition to the off- leash recall. Only when he responds to your command immediately, every time you call him, should you go to random reinforcement for the off-leash recall.

• The transition from an on-leash recall must be done gradually. If the leash or line is taken off too soon, your pup will quickly realize he does not have to respond to you. This can lead to bad habits, like games of ‘keep away’. Even while having some free time in the back yard, your pup should have a dragline on, so that you can take hold of it before calling him. Remember; never give a command you cannot enforce. • In a safe, enclosed area, drop the long-line attached to your puppy’s collar, and let him drag it. Call him to you in a happy tone and praise immediately when he starts toward you. Do not step toward your puppy, but back away and encourage him to come to you. When he comes to you take hold of his collar, pet and praise for ten seconds, then give a food reward as above. • If your puppy does not respond to your command, quietly and smoothly pick up the line and guide him to you. Praise and reward as above. • If your puppy is not coming when called with the line dragging, he may need more exercise with the hand-held line or there may be too many distractions, making the situation too difficult for his level of training. Sometimes a distraction is more motivating to the puppy than the food, so you have to go back to the hand held line and work harder to keep his interest. • When your puppy is coming every single time he is called while dragging his long-line, without needing a correction, he can be transitioned to a shorter dragline. (You may just want to cut off a portion of his long-line to make it shorter, or you may have several lines of varying lengths available.) • Over a period of weeks, the attached line is gradually shortened, until it is just a ‘tab’ or handle, hanging from his collar.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands • Do not hesitate to go back to a longer, hand-held line and do more exercises if the puppy is not responding consistently to the command. Your puppy must be conditioned to respond correctly with gradually increased distraction. The line will enable you to enforce the command and the praise and food rewards will keep him motivated. • If at any time your puppy shows signs of playing ‘keep away’, go back to the long-line and more frequent food rewards. Consult your leader if you are not getting a good, consistent response from your puppy.

Off-leash recall: Do not begin this exercise until your puppy comes when called with just a shortened dragline or tab attached to his collar. He must be responding to the first command ‘Come’, without a correction, even with distractions. If he is not doing this, he needs more work on the long-line and dragline. • Begin this exercise in a small, escape-proof, confined area (such as an exercise pen) or room with no distractions. Allow your puppy to wander and become interested in something. The room should be free of obstacles and small enough so that your puppy cannot avoid you. • Say your puppy's name followed by the command ‘Come’. • Expect your puppy to respond to the command within one second. When your puppy moves toward you, begin to praise. Once your puppy reaches you, calmly take hold of his collar, pet and praise your puppy for ten seconds, then, still holding onto his collar, reach into your supply of food and give him a kibble, holding it low down, between your knees. Repeat the exercise. • If your puppy does not respond within one second to the command, do not repeat the command. Walk calmly and slowly toward your puppy. When you reach him, slowly take hold of his collar. Praise your puppy for allowing his collar to be held. Say ‘Come’, hold the collar and walk backwards to the area where you first called your puppy. Praise your puppy as you walk backwards and when you reach the area where you originally called him pet him for ten seconds, but do not give him a food reward. Release your pup with an ‘OK’. Walk away and allow the pup to become slightly distracted before repeating the exercise. Make it easier for him this time to give him a chance to succeed; stay closer if necessary. • It is important that you not rush toward your puppy or grab at the collar. Rushing or lunging towards your puppy will usually have one of two effects: the puppy will become worried or threatened by the handler, or; the puppy will initiate the keep- away game. Both of these are undesirable responses. If your puppy avoids you or plays keep-away as you approach, walk even more slowly and calmly toward him. Keep a calm, happy demeanor. Approaching slowly will take time, but it is the only way to teach your puppy not to avoid you. No matter how long it takes to get hold of the puppy's collar, enthusiastic praise is necessary when you do touch it. Obviously keeping the training area small makes this exercise easier. • Never use a corrective, angry or threatening tone of voice when training this exercise (no matter how exasperated you may be). Harsh commands will make your puppy worried about approaching you. Praise really enthusiastically and encourage your puppy by moving away from him, drawing him towards you at the first sign that he is responding to your command. • If you do not achieve success after two attempts, go back to the long-line technique for a while longer.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands • Once the puppy is consistently coming when called, add minor distractions. Slowly increase both the distraction levels and room or enclosure size. • You will need to train your puppy in this exercise throughout the time you have him. It is not necessary to totally wean him off the food rewards. You should randomly reinforce your puppy with food rewards throughout the time he is with you. Remember, random reinforcement is not predictable; there is no pattern to it. If you see a waning in his response to the recall command, you may have to use the food reward more often. You should verbally and physically praise him every time he comes to you. Don’t be afraid to go back to any step in this process and reinforce it.

Summary: • A reliable recall response is a vital part of a Guide Dog's training. Raisers can succeed in teaching this command with patient, calm, friendly and consistent handling technique. Throughout the puppy's maturation, there will be times that the ‘Come’ command will need reinforcement. When a puppy fails to respond under conditions in which there had previously been no problems, the pup may need to go back to remedial leash or line work. We would prefer that the off-leash recall is not attempted at all rather than have a dog come in for formal training playing keep-away games. The use of food reward greatly increases the raiser’s success in teaching this command.

Stay Before beginning the stay with your puppy, read and learn this entire procedure. He should completely understand sit or down before being asked to do a sit stay or down stay.

Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin learning the sit stay from 3 to 6 months. Add major distractions (level 4+) at 5 months and older. He should begin learning the down stay from 5 to 10 months. Add major distractions (level 4+) at 6 months or older.

Purpose: Guide Dogs will frequently need to be left on their own for short periods of time while their partners are away from them. They need to remain in place regardless of what may be happening in their surroundings. This is one of the most important exercises you will teach your puppy.

Objective: Your objective will vary depending on the ability of your puppy. With some puppies, a raiser may not be able to leave the pup's side when there are distractions; other pups may do well with the raiser out of sight. Most puppies will fall somewhere in between.

Phases of teaching the stay This exercise is to be taught in phases. Do not proceed to a new phase until your puppy is proficient in the current phase with the expected level of distraction. Moving too quickly will do more harm than good. Do not be concerned if it seems that other puppies in your group are progressing faster than yours. All puppies learn at individual rates. Good, consistent teaching and handling is much more important than fast progress.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands The Stay command You will be teaching your puppy both a hand signal and a verbal command. Use the verbal command every time you tell your pup to Stay. Use the hand signal half of the time. If the hand signal is used every time the command to Stay is given, the puppy may learn to rely on it and not stay on a verbal only command. The verbal stay command: the word Stay. The signal stay command: Flatten you hand, fingers pointing downward and palm facing backward. Place your hand above and in front of your puppy's head. Hold this position for one second, then withdraw it. When using both commands, give the verbal command simultaneously with the signal above and in front of the puppy's head.

Distractions To properly teach the stay, it is necessary to add distractions after the puppy becomes proficient at a particular level without distractions. This teaches the puppy that no matter what may be happening around it, it must stay in place. Distractions must be added to each phase of training the stay. You should present the puppy with different levels of distraction. What follows are examples of increasingly difficult levels of distractions. They are intended as guidelines of distraction intensity - you should also use other distractions that are not listed but are of a similar level of difficulty for your puppy.

Level 1: No distractions other than the presence of the handler. Handler may "talk" with the puppy.

Level 2: Another person the puppy may or may not know walks toward the puppy and talks to him. They may use the puppy's name, but the other person should give no commands.

Level 3: Another person approaches the puppy and offers a toy or food.

Level 4: Another dog or puppy approaches within a few feet while on-leash. A person may tease or try to induce the pup to break the stay (without giving any commands to the pup). Food or toys may be place in front of the puppy on the ground, or there may be crowds of people nearby.

Level 5: Other puppies (on-leash) are playing with their handlers and other puppies. Other animals may be nearby (cats, birds, squirrels, etc.). Puppy may be in the middle of an active crowd of people (in a shopping mall, for example).

Level 6: Other dogs or puppies (not Guide Dog puppies) are playing off-leash nearby. Toys may be thrown for the other dogs. There may be heavy traffic or construction noises nearby.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands The Sit Stay Phase 1: 1. Place puppy on your left side in a sit. Your leash should be in your right hand. Give your puppy your absolute attention - don't be distracted by your surroundings 2. Give the puppy the command to Stay, both signal and verbal. 3. Remain in place with your pup at your side. 4. Should your puppy move, correct your puppy by gently pulling straight up on the collar and slowly relaxing the tension as your puppy relaxes. You may also need to gently reposition his hind end with your left hand. 5. Reposition a front foot that strays too far to the side or front by grasping it at the elbow and gently reposition it back to where it was originally. Do not pick up the puppy's foot to reposition the leg - this will often induce the puppy to stand. 6. Allow him to move a front foot slightly or to rock over on one hip to become more comfortable. Do not allow him to move a foot forward or to the side if it changes the position or angle of his body. Do not allow him to lift his hind end off of the ground in an effort to reposition himself. Puppies may turn their heads, but it is best to encourage their attention towards you. Use no verbal corrections. 7. If your puppy makes a mistake, make sure you reposition and control him as the puppy begins to make the mistake (when he first starts to move a foot, not afterward). If you are not paying attention, and the puppy manages to stand or lie down, start the exercise over from the beginning. 8. Be sure to provide the puppy with lots of verbal encouragement and praise when he is correct. Length of each stay exercise should vary from only 10 seconds initially to up to one minute as the puppy progresses. 9. Calmly praise and pet your puppy for staying, then release him with the OK command. 10. Add distraction levels 1 - 3 as described.

Phase 2: 1. Place puppy on your left side in a sit. Your leash should be in your right hand. 2. Give the puppy the command to Stay, both signal and verbal. 3. Step directly in front of and face your puppy. 4. Should your puppy move, give a light, straight upward pop-and-release correction. You may also use your hands to reposition the puppy as described in Phase 1. Use no verbal corrections. 5. If your puppy makes a mistake, make sure you correct and reposition him as he begins to make it - as when he first starts to move a foot. If you are not paying attention, and the puppy manages to stand or lie down, correct him as he changes position and then start the exercise over from the beginning. Always return the puppy to the place where you started, not to where he moved. 6. Praise and pet your puppy while he is in place, then release him with the OK command. 7. Add distraction levels 2-4 as described.

Phase 3: 1. Place puppy on your left side in a sit. Your leash should be in your right hand. 2. Give the puppy the command to Stay, both signal and verbal. 3. Step directly in front of and face your puppy. While still facing him, step back one pace.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands 4. Add distraction levels 2-4 as described 5. When your puppy is proficient with distractions, move a step farther back, slowly increasing the distance over many training sessions, until you are eventually at the end of a six-foot leash. If your puppy moves, use firmer straight up pop-and-release corrections. 6. When your puppy is proficient with distraction level 4 while at the end of the leash, you may begin walking around the puppy, walking toward and backing away from the pup, or jogging around the pup. 7. Go back to your puppy and praise him for staying, then release him with the OK command.

Phase 4: Add distraction levels 5 and 6 to Phase 3.

Phase 5: 1. Use a longer leash or long-line. Follow the instructions for Phase 3 for increasing your distance and distraction levels. 2. As your distance increases, you will be less able to get effectively timed physical corrections. 3. If the puppy does not respond to correction, calmly, quietly and quickly return to the puppy and replace him (without correction) in his exact original position. Praise. Give the Stay command(s) before you leave the puppy. 4. Add distraction level 5.

The Down Stay The down stay is both more difficult to train and more difficult for the puppy to understand than the sit stay. Do not begin the down stay until your puppy is proficient with Phase 3 of the sit stay and is familiar with the down on command. This will give your puppy a good understanding of what is expected before you begin training the down stay.

Phase 1: 1. Place your puppy in a sit at your left side. Place your puppy in a down at your side. 2. Give the Stay command(s). 3. Slowly stand up at the puppy's side. Be ready to give a timely correction, for the puppy will likely want to stand or move into a sit as you rise. 4. To give an effective correction, you must be ready to move your right hand down the leash to the snap at the collar. If the puppy moves to rise, smoothly reposition your hand on the leash and make a light, straight down pop-and-release correction. Repeat the correction if necessary. Avoid pulling the puppy into position - the pup should decide to move into the down position on his own. 5. If the puppy gets into the fully sitting or standing position, start the exercise over. As with the sit stay, your corrections must be timed to catch the mistake as it is beginning, and not after the puppy has achieved his objective. Pay better attention to your puppy next time. 6. The length of the exercise should progress from 30 seconds to 3 minutes. 7. Praise and stroke your puppy while he remains down, then release him with the OK command. 8. Add distraction levels 2 and 3.

Phase 2: 1. Place your puppy in a sit at your left side. Place your puppy in a down at your side. 2. Give the Stay command(s). 3. Stand up at the puppy's side. Be ready to give a timely correction, for the puppy will likely want to stand or move into a sit as you rise. Step in front of the puppy, increasing the distance from the puppy over a period of many training sessions as you did in Phases 2 and 3 of the sit stay. 4. Progress through the distraction levels 2 - 5. You should keep the leash in your hand at all times in this phase. Your puppy is not yet ready for you to set the leash down. 5. If your puppy moves, use firmer straight down pop-and-release corrections. You may occasionally give the verbal correction “no” as you give the physical correction. 6. The length of the exercise should progress from 2 to 5 minutes. 7. Return to your puppy and praise him for staying down, then release him from the exercise with the OK command.

Phase 3: 1. Be sure your puppy is proficient in Phase 2 at distraction level 5 before proceeding to Phase 3. 2. Replace the six-foot leash with a long-line. 3. Follow steps 1 - 3 in Phase 2 of the down stay. 4. Increase the distance between you and the puppy gradually over many training sessions. Keep hold of the line and watch your puppy carefully. You may quietly praise him while holding the line a distance away. 5. If your puppy moves, calmly and quietly move down the long-line and give a downward pop-and-release correction close to his collar. Give the command Stay and leave the puppy as before. 6. Add distraction levels 2-5. 7. Return to your puppy, praise him and release him with an OK.

Phase 4: 1. Be sure your puppy is proficient in Phase 3 at distraction levels 2-5 on a 15-20’ line before going to Phase 4. 2. This phase should be done indoors or in a small, confined area outdoors. 3. Follow steps 1-3 in Phase 2 of the down stay. 4. Go about 6 feet down the long-line and gently set the line on the floor. Place your foot on the line. Quietly praise your puppy for staying. 5. If the puppy does move, pick up the line and quietly and calmly return to the puppy and place him back into a down with a pop-and-release correction straight down, close to his collar. Give the command Stay and leave as before. 6. Over a period of many training sessions you may gradually increase the distance away from your puppy with the line laid out on the ground but always right next to you within easy reach. 7. Build up the time of the down stay to 10 minutes or so but do not use high levels of distraction when you are not holding the line. Do not leave your puppy unattended on a down stay. 8. Return to your puppy and praise him for staying down then release him with an OK.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands Summary: The number one mistake handlers make in training the stay is progressing faster than the dog is capable. Retraining a poorly taught stay is much more difficult than training it correctly in the first place. While your puppy may not be moving along as quickly as another in your group, it is much more important that you follow the phases and levels of distraction in a step-by-step way. Remember that your puppy may not know that he always must stay in place on command until very late in the training phases. Remember not to call your puppy to you from a down stay or release him from a distance - always return to release him. He will have fewer decisions to make as to when it's correct to get up or move, and his down stay will become much more reliable. Never mix up sit and down stays. If left sitting, make sure he remains sitting. If left down make him stay down.

WAIT Appropriate Age: Your puppy can begin to learn this command at 8 weeks. By the time he is 4 months old, he should be able to obey this command consistently.

Purpose: The wait can be considered a temporary or informal stay. A stay is for longer periods of time and is not usually followed by another command or action. The wait is used when a handler needs the dog to hold location for just a moment; such as when a door is opened, food is set on the floor, or the dog is getting in or out of a car. The wait is always performed when the puppy is with the handler, and is usually followed by another command. Position or change of position is not important, but the puppy may not change his location.

Objective: When given the command Wait, the puppy will hold location (sitting, standing or down) until another command to action is given.

Procedure: • The puppy should have his leash attached to the collar. Hold the leash in the left hand. Hold the leash with just enough slack so that an effective pop-and-release may be given. • While the puppy's position is not important to the success of this exercise, it is easier to teach the puppy wait if he is on your left side. The puppy may be standing, sitting, or down. • Give the verbal command Wait in a normal tone of voice, and move forward one step from the puppy. • If the puppy moves with you, give a light pop-and-release correction with the leash directed back towards the puppy’s original location. Make the correction as the pup first starts to move. Avoid pulling the puppy back into the location or giving a correction that forces the pup back. The objective is to have the pup back up on his own. Maintain a slack leash at all times. You may repeat the correction if the first is not effective. Praise him as he waits. • Remember, you are teaching this exercise to a young puppy. Do not over-correct.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands • If the puppy starts the exercise in a sit, but stands and moves forward, you do not need to correct the puppy back into a sit. We are concerned with holding location, not position. • If the puppy backs into his original location, or did not move forward with you, then calmly and quietly praise. • Be sure to give the puppy another command when he is no longer expected to wait. Release with OK, or give an OK, Let’s go command when walking. Do not let the puppy make the decision the exercise is over. Expect the puppy to wait only a few seconds initially, and up to 30 seconds as he becomes proficient. You do not need to return to the puppy to give the new command. • Do not restrain your puppy from forward movement. Instead, always anticipate that he will move and give a pop-and-release correction when he starts to change location. • Refrain from using verbal corrections. Be ready to give calm praise when the puppy succeeds. • Once your puppy is consistently able to hold location (in any position) when you take a step forward, add another action such as opening a door in front of him, putting his food bowl on the floor, waiting while others go through a doorway ahead of the puppy, etc.

Summary: This exercise is more relaxed and casual than the more formal stay. The wait is intended for short duration only, such as when one pauses before opening a door, getting into a car, or setting food down in front of the dog. It is not important if the puppy changes position, as long as he does not move forward or change location. The stay is meant for long periods of time, under heavy distraction, and with the handler some distance from the puppy. With the stay, the puppy is not allowed to change position or location.

Go To Bed Appropriate Age: Teaching the Go To Bed command can begin as soon as you get your puppy. He should advance quickly through the first several steps, but care should be taken not to increase the difficulty or duration too quickly. Puppies will vary in their response and it is important not to proceed to the next step until the preceding step is successfully completed.

Purpose: This exercise teaches your puppy to go to his bed or a designated mat, lie down and stay there. Once your puppy knows the exercise it can be used in many situations (for example, to keep him from greeting people at the door or from bothering other pets in the household). Your puppy will enjoy learning this and will look upon his bed/mat as a positive place to be no matter what is going on around him.

Objective: Upon hearing the verbal cue of Go To Bed, your puppy will reliably and happily offer the behavior of going to his bed and remain settled.

Procedure: This teaches your puppy to go to a designated spot, lie down and stay there until released. A mat/towel or dog bed is used which can eventually be placed in a

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands convenient area in your home or office and moved around as needed. You should pick one mat or bed to use for initial training, but later on the mat or bed can be exchanged for another. Only put the mat/bed down when you are actively training for now. The dog bed you are using for this exercise must be picked up after each session until your puppy is trained. The reason for this is so that your puppy is not being ignored when he chooses to ‘Go to Bed’; he must be rewarded every time in early training.

Do not put any kind of bedding in your puppy’s crate where he may chew on it and make himself ill.

It is preferable that you do this exercise off-leash, so that there is no chance of you inhibiting or guiding your puppy with the leash. If you are in a setting where off-leash work is impractical (e.g. a club meeting), be sure to let the leash slide through your hand easily if your puppy goes toward the mat or bed; do not inhibit him from making the decision to ‘Go to Bed’! A Flexi extendable leash would work well for this.

Step 1: Start in a quiet, familiar environment. Having the mat/bed on a hard floor, or at least in a contrasting color, will make it easier for your puppy to distinguish, but isn’t absolutely necessary. Have the treats (your puppy’s regular kibble measured from his meal) ready.

Place yourself near the mat in such a way that your puppy will step onto the mat. He doesn’t have to put all of his feet on it. Even if he puts one foot on mark and treat (from now on we’ll just say mark, but of course that means treat too.) Try to move your body different ways, e.g. right shoulder to the mat then left shoulder to the mat, so that you are not always giving him the same cue. Do not point at the mat or use your hands at all. At first it should be almost accidental that his feet land on the mat. Repeat x 10 times

Give the reward with your puppy still on the mat, meaning move to your puppy after you mark, so the pup receives the reward while still on the mat. You may even give him the food low on the mat to encourage a ‘down’, but don’t say “down” and don’t withhold the food; once you have marked you must give it to him quickly. (To get him off the mat in between trials, draw him away with your body, gently use the leash, or practice your Food Induced Recall.)

Step 2: Try to give less body language to guide him onto the mat; let him figure it out on his own but go back to maneuvering your body slightly if he is ‘stuck’. Sometimes just your looking at the mat will be sufficient. Stay close to the mat to keep it easy for him, but try from different angles around the mat. Now withhold the mark until he puts at least two of his feet on the mat. Repeat x 5-10 times

Step 3: From different angles around the mat, but no more than a few inches away, repeat the above. Step in to treat after you mark so he is rewarded on the mat; however don’t worry if he steps off the mat after the mark but before the treat. Start asking for all four paws on the mat before you mark. Your puppy may stare at you expectantly when he puts two

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands paws on the mat, but just wait. He will probably then shuffle around and somehow hit the mat with all his feet, mark it! If he doesn’t get the idea, draw him off gently with the leash and re-approach using your body to help him hit the mat with more feet. Reward your puppy multiple times (jackpot) while he is on the mat; this will give him a strong, positive association with the mat.

Do not guide the puppy onto the mat with the leash! This should be his choice: go on the mat and get the reward, or don’t go on the mat and don’t get rewarded.

If your puppy is getting this quickly you only need do five reps of each step. At this point no body language should be coming from you, stay still and neutral until you mark.

Step 4: Move a couple of inches further back from the mat and repeat the above. Within several sessions, you should be able to have your puppy go to his mat from several feet away. He may even be difficult to keep off the mat! Once you have the behavior consistently start naming it, the verbal cue will be, “Go to Bed”. You know the behavior is sufficiently solid to add this verbal cue when you can confidently predict your puppy is going to go to the mat. Would you bet $20 on it? Only add the verbal cue “Go to Bed” when you are positive your puppy is about to move back to the mat.

Perhaps your puppy now wants to stay on the mat as he associates it with good things; perfect, as now you need to add the next sequence in the behavior - to stay on the mat. Do not say ‘stay’ or give a signal. You want the puppy to eventually go to his mat and stay on it on the one command. For now, we don’t mind if your puppy stays in a sit, down or stand position, so long as he’s on the mat.

Step 5: Go back to being very close to the mat. Send your pup to the mat and instead of marking as soon as he hits it with all four paws, wait a second or two, then mark. If he stays on the mat after the treat, wait for a few seconds and mark again. You can do this several times; don’t worry if he gets off the mat immediately after the treat. If he stays still on the mat after several marks and treats, call him off the mat in a Food Induced Recall and start the sequence again. If your puppy got off the mat too soon and you didn’t get chance to mark him for staying on it, ask for a much shorter ‘stay’ next time. Slowly increase the amount of time on the mat before you mark, but make sure you are allowing your puppy to be successful and not asking too much at once. If he gets off the mat before you mark just send him again, but ask for a shorter duration before the mark.

Step 6: Just as you did in the first steps start sending the puppy to his mat from different angles, then slowly start increasing the distance but now always insisting on him staying on the mat until you mark; if he gets off – no treat. Remember to only change one criteria at a time, e.g. if you send him from further away from the mat go back to shorter duration stays before marking. If you move the mat to a new location, you will have to back up several steps in the sequence to make it simpler for your puppy.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands Step 7: Although initially it is not important what position your puppy holds on the mat, we eventually want him to go to it and lie down on it until released. As you work on increasing the duration of the stay on the mat, your pup will most likely be sitting, which is good, but may offer a down, which is even better. The second he offers a movement that looks like the beginning of a down position, mark it. As you withhold the mark to increase the length of time for staying on the mat, he might offer all kinds of behaviors; you will only reward for staying on the mat for an increasing number of seconds or offering the beginning of a down movement.

Step 8: You may be lucky and have a puppy that offered to lie down on the mat promptly, and with lots of reinforcement, now always lies down on the mat. Or you may have to shape lying down on the mat by marking first for a lowering of the head from a sit, then a crouch, then for one elbow touching the mat and eventually working up to a full lying position. This is called ‘shaping’ a behavior. Because your puppy wants that mark so badly, he will try different positions, but you will only reward the ones that start looking like a down. Gradually increase your demand for the position by withholding the mark for positions you previously rewarded and only rewarding movements that are more like lying down. If you practiced giving him the treat low, making him reach his head down for it on the mat, he will probably already be going into a relaxed down when he hits the mat.

Step 9: Now your puppy is going across the room to the mat, on your verbal cue, from any angle and lying down on it. He’s holding the position for a length of time (with young puppies, don’t ask for unrealistic durations; a minute or two would be fine at this point). You can start practicing in different places and adding distractions but always make it easier, going back numerous steps, when introducing new distractions. You can also set the mat next to you while watching TV or working at your desk; occasionally rewarding your puppy for staying down on the mat.

Once your puppy understands the whole behavior sequence, there is no reason to mark any longer as marking is only used when teaching a behavior. However, continue to give very occasional food rewards, and regular verbal praise, after longer durations of staying on the mat, throughout your puppy’s raising.

Summary: By using positive reinforcement and shaping techniques your puppy will quickly learn that it is fun as well as rewarding to offer the calm, positive behavior of going to his bed and remaining there until released. The ability to remain settled regardless of activity level around him is an essential behavior in a Guide Dog. You will find that training your puppy using these techniques will be very rewarding for you as well!

Ten basic rules of puppy handling (The “calming sit”, lay-over and stand) 1. Do the exercises at least twice a day. Vigorous or excitable pups may need several sessions per day. 2. Keep sessions brief (usually no more than five minutes long). 3. When a puppy resists handling, persist until it gives in to the handling.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2008 Puppy Raising Manual / 6: Training techniques Section 6-3 11/2008 Commands 4. Do handling exercises slowly and calmly with firm but gentle hands. 5. Do lots of slow, pleasant stroking when the puppy is quietly accepting the handling and sweetly praise the puppy while stroking it. 6. Avoid saying "no" or correcting with your voice during handling exercises. It's very important that you and your puppy enjoy these handling experiences 7. Face the puppy away from you while doing the handling exercises. 8. Avoid using commands during the handling exercises until the puppy has become compliant. 9. Ignore your puppy's vocalizing and whining - just work through it. 10. Avoid pulling away from the puppy when he tries to chew on you or the leash. Instead, give collar corrections for mouthing, chewing or pawing.

Probably the hardest part of puppy raising is having to return your pup to Guide Dogs for formal training. After putting in hours of hard work and tender care, after experiencing all the joys and frustrations of shaping your pup into a well mannered, socialized being, you have, in the process, undoubtedly formed a strong bond of love and friendship with your puppy.

When your pup is approximately 12 to 18 months old, you will receive a letter from Guide Dogs stating that he is being recalled for training. If you live near one of the campuses, you can take him there, or we will arrange to have him brought to us. If you have difficulty meeting the scheduled pick-up time, date, or place in the letter, call your leader immediately.

When you deliver your puppy to either a pick-up site or to one of the Guide Dog campuses, please ensure that you let the Guide Dog representative know if and when your puppy was altered. This important information needs to be verified in our computer database to prevent your puppy from being unnecessarily scheduled for altering.

Also, make sure that you give the person receiving your puppy all the items listed below, especially the required forms. The information you provide is entered into our computer database and becomes an essential part of your puppy's history.

One of the best ways to ease the sorrow of giving up your puppy is to say "hello" to a new one. Speak to your leader about the possibility of getting a new pup when you turn in your present one.

Items that need to be returned with your puppy: • Both collars • Puppy coats (these should be returned to your leader) • A fully completed Project Record, if for some reason you did not turn it into your leader as requested - the Training Department depends on you to provide accurate and detailed information which will help the instructor evaluate the puppy's potential. • A completed "Fun things about my puppy" form - if your puppy graduates, this record is read by your puppy's new partner to better understand how to make your puppy happy. Please be informative and positive in your descriptions. • The veterinarian's record of your puppy's care. • Any unused heartworm preventative • Any unused flea or tick preventative • This puppy raising manual (return to your leader only if you are not planning on raising subsequent puppies)

7-2 WHEN YOUR PUPPY RETURNS TO GUIDE DOGS

Not all puppies make it as guides no matter how hard their raisers have worked. Know that whatever the outcome, we appreciate all you have done to prepare your pup to become a guide, and we will, in turn, do our best to make that happen. We are always looking for ways to improve our program and welcome your suggestions.

The receiving kennel • Your puppy will be welcomed to Guide Dogs and he will receive a new training collar.

Medical examination • Your puppy undergoes a complete physical, has his hips, elbows and eyes checked, is examined for heartworm and receives a fresh round of vaccinations. • Unfortunately, if he fails one of the check-ups, he may be dropped from the program.

Your pup is then assigned to an instructor • If he passes all of his check-ups, your pup will be assigned to an instructor with a training string. A string is a group of dogs all trained by one team of instructors. • He then begins his training program and is given systematic evaluations as he progresses through ten training phases. • Weekly, the instructor writes a phase report on every dog in his string. Information on dogs in training is shared with Guide Dog staff and raisers as follows: ¾ Training sends a list of each dog’s phase of training to the Puppy Raising Department. ¾ This information goes to your area puppy raising CFR. ¾ The CFR gives the phase reports to your leader. ¾ Puppy raisers contact their leaders (according to whatever protocol has been worked out for their group) to receive phase report updates on their puppies. • You may not receive a phase report for a few weeks at the start of training or any time period in which the instructor is away from training due to illness, vacation or class training. • You will receive a text of the exercises which dogs work on in each phase. By comparing your dog’s phase number with this document, you will be able to understand the work your dog is doing daily at a particular time.

Visiting Guide Dogs while your dog is in training: We welcome visits from our puppy raisers and encourage you to see the campus where your puppy will receive his formal Guide Dog training. However, PLEASE DO NOT TOUR OUR KENNELS while your dog is here in training.

It's important for the dogs to form a strong bond with their instructors while they're living in the kennel environment and learning all about guidework. It can be very confusing for your dog to hear or see you, your leader or your family. He may think someone has come to take him back home.

7-3 TRAINING

Our Training Department includes directors, training supervisors, class supervisors, licensed instructors, apprentice instructors (AIs), and instructor assistants (IAs) among others. They handle dog and student instruction, exercise and care for the dogs. They receive support from the Kennel and Veterinary Departments.

Throughout his training, your puppy will be continually evaluated by training and veterinary staff. If a problem (physical, temperament, behavior or cosmetic) arises that is evaluated as being chronic, reoccurring and/or impossible to correct, the dog will be dropped from the program. It is always unfortunate for a dog to be dropped at this stage of training. It's important to understand that our very high standards are necessary to ensure the safety of a blind partner. The dog that we place needs to be dependable in all ways - health, temperament, and skills.

If your puppy continues to do well and completes the training phases, he will be assigned to a class. Class assignment occurs when the instructor feels that your puppy has the qualities needed by a particular person who is in class.

Pattern training

In pattern training, the dogs are patterned to give a specific response. Initially, the dogs are walked through several guide workouts with instructors to show how they will be asked to respond to commands and situations. By having the dog respond to commands and situations in exactly the same way each time, the dog becomes patterned in its responses.

Eventually, when actual guide work in harness begins, the dog continues to respond the same way, guiding in harness as it did when it was first introduced to the commands and situations. This may sound fairly simple to do, but it takes a great deal of concentration on the instructor's part to simulate guide work for the dog when it is not being asked to guide. Each response and move the dog makes must follow an exact pattern every time.

Guide Dog training phases

The Guide Dog training program is designed to maximize a dog's potential for success. Each dog is taken through the phases with the end goal of having all of the dogs in a string ready for class at the same time. There are ten phases of training through which our dogs progress during their training cycle:

Phase #1 Pre-training physical exam, neutering/spaying (with the exception of potential breeding stock dogs who are under evaluation at this time), X-rays, eye checks. First walks on leash. Introduction to the kennel environment and schedule. Relaxing walks on the campus and play sessions with instructor assistants. General daily care and grooming. Phase #2 Preliminary harness and obedience training. Introduction to distractions (toys, food,

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 7: What’s next for your puppy Section 7-3 2/2003 Training other dogs, cats, etc.). On-campus training of leading into harness (pulling forward in harness) utilizing the BEST™ program and responses to guidework-specific commands such as "Forward," "Halt," "Hopp Up" and "Steady." Introduction to campus obstacle course on leash.

Phase #3 Harness training in quiet residential areas; frequent rides in the training vans. Teaching new guidework commands and responses, such as "Right," "Left," and "Over Here," as well as continuing to work on commands learned in Phase 2. Curb checks and street crossings are introduced. Progressive obstacle course training on campus. Obedience training continues. Mall exposure walks and introduction to dog social sessions. Those dogs who are on the breeder-watch list but are not selected for the breeding program are spayed or neutered.

Phase #4 Guidework training progresses on more difficult sidewalks in busier sections of downtown areas. All curb types and more complex street crossings are introduced. The dogs begin to show clearance awareness, and begin to guide their instructors through the campus obstacle course. Preliminary obedience testing and evaluation of the dogs' reactions to head collars are also performed.

Phase #5 Preliminary guidework testing is performed with the instructor under blindfold. Complete medical history review. Guidework training environments become more challenging: pedestrian traffic, stairs, different flooring surfaces, etc.

Phase #6 Guidework routes in difficult and challenging level work environments. Heavy pedestrian and vehicle traffic areas, wide crossings, hectic atmospheres, etc. Introduction to sidewalkless areas and rounded curbs. Continued work in malls, stores and buildings with increasing exposure to varying sights, sounds and smells. Advanced guidework skills such as moving turns. Learning "intelligent disobedience", in which dogs learn to refuse to obey a command if it is unsafe to execute. Advanced obedience training.

Phase #7 Guidework moves to extremely challenging downtown urban areas (San Francisco and Portland). Training on buses, light rail/subway systems and platform edges. Introduction to low overhead clearances; advanced off-leash obedience. Formal traffic training begins.

Phase #8 Continued advanced guidework and obedience training. Intensive indoor mall training with crowds, slick floors and learning to board, ride and exit escalators. Advanced sidewalkless training with obstacles.

Phase #9 Final obedience testing including on-leash obedience with the instructor wearing a blindfold, off-leash obedience and distraction response. Final testing of guidework inside buildings (malls, stores, etc.) with the instructor wearing a blindfold. Includes working escalators, elevators, stairs, etc. The dogs are also worked by unfamiliar or novice

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 7: What’s next for your puppy Section 7-3 2/2003 Training handlers. Final traffic testing with instructor under blindfold and "real life" traffic situations.

Phase #10 Final guidework testing. Includes working a 40-50 minute route with the instructor wearing a blindfold in downtown Gresham or San Rafael. The route covers nearly every aspect of guidework (curbs, street crossings, stairs, buildings, crowded sidewalks, traffic, etc.); obedience exercises are done along the way. Final "class-ready" physical exams.

For a more comprehensive description of each of the ten phases of training, please see the “Recall for training phase descriptions” packet in the Policies, forms and resources section.

Passing a dog back while in training There may be times when the weekly training report notes that a dog has been moved back one or more phase numbers. This would reflect a dog that has been "passed back" in training. Passing a dog back does not necessarily reflect concerns, but rather indicates that we continue to see positive traits in the dog. Like people, not all dogs learn at the same rate. In our training process, each string of dogs is separated by at least two phases. So, when a dog is passed back a string or two you can expect to see a significant change in the phase number. Take, for example, a dog that is in phase ten and considered “class ready”, but is not selected for class. This dog will be passed back and be available for placement in subsequent classes. Since the string that this dog has been passed to will be in a different phase (most likely a lower phase), the dog will also be formally documented as being in the lower phase as well, even though it has technically completed phase ten and is considered “class ready”. Each dog is placed into class only when a person arrives that needs their specific abilities, size and temperament. Generally, dogs are in training for approximately four to five months, but many dogs may be in training for six to nine months (or even more) before they are matched with the appropriate individual.

7-4 IN CLASS

A dog that successfully completes all ten phases of his training will be assigned to a student in class. This assignment may require a wait, as all dogs are individually matched by instructors to students according to the student's needs and lifestyle. Class training schedules offered:

• Four-week class - for new students and some students (retrain) with previous experience using a dog guide. • Two or three-week retrain class - for students with previous experience with a dog guide • Two-week retrain class - for students with good Guide Dog experience • Custom needs class - for students who have individual training needs • In-home training - for retrain students who cannot attend a Guide Dog campus • Instruction includes: • Dog care • Dog grooming • Dog nutrition • Veterinary care • Basic dog obedience • Access • Traffic • Harness work with and without a dog (Juno work) • Guidework with a dog

A dog can be reassigned or passed back for more training. A class-ready dog may continue in training for several months waiting to be matched to a student who requires their particular abilities and qualities. A dog may be dropped from the program up to the day of graduation and even after going to the graduate's home for a variety of reasons including: health, temperament or safety in guiding.

7-5 GRADUATION

Raisers are invited to attend our graduation ceremony to present the dogs they have raised to their new partners. Those raisers whose dogs have been matched with students receiving in-home training are welcome to attend graduation, and their name, their dog's name and the student's name will be mentioned during the program even though their dogs will not be physically presented.

You will be notified with a formal letter of the date your dog will graduate with his new partner. This letter will include instructions for the week leading up to and the day of graduation. On the day of graduation, staff members will greet you and will introduce you to the graduate who has been paired with the dog you raised. You will have a chance to visit and share stories. During your visiting time, you will be asked to accompany the graduate and the dog you raised to a room where photos will be taken for publicity purposes and for the graduate's and your keepsake. You and the graduate will be given a moment on stage during the ceremony to share a few words about your experiences. After the ceremony, you will be sent a video of the graduation as a keepsake. The video usually arrives one to three months after graduation (it must be processed by a photo lab).

Tips to help make graduation more relaxed and enjoyable to all: • Realize that the student is probably nervous and wants to make a good impression on you. • It’s natural for some raisers to be nervous too; we want you to relax and enjoy yourself. • Please let your first words be a greeting to the student (not the dog). Initiating a handshake is great! (Gently touch the back of the student’s right hand as a greeting if they do not have their arm extended.) • The student may offer you the leash so that you can visit with their dog for a few minutes. Keep in mind that this is a courtesy to you. Please be respectful of the student’s important relationship with their dog and hand the leash back to them in a few minutes. • Take a few minutes to greet the dog you’ve raised; it’s best to stay gentle and calm. Despite your own excitement, try to not increase the dog’s excitement. • Please remember that the dog is working on this day. Expect and encourage him to behave as he would in a working situation involving a crowd. • Indicate an open seat to the student. Ask the student about their class experience. • Feel free to share positive and/or humorous stories about the dog’s puppyhood. Keep in mind that the student has only begun to develop their trust and confidence in their new guide. While sharing normal puppy "challenges" with the student is fine, try not to focus on any negative subjects about raising their dog. • Inquire about the student’s lifestyle, plans or hobbies/career. Keep in mind, the student may or may not want to share this. • Please do not offer the student any training advice even if asked. • The student will put the harness on the dog when it is time to take photos. The student may also attach alternative control equipment onto their dog, such as a specialized collar or headcollar.

• The students’ complete address is sent to you in the letter informing you of the graduation. Many times phone numbers are exchanged but remember that the graduate and you are under no obligation to give each other personal information or communicate in the future. Please respect any privacy wishes that the other may express.

Sponsored teams

Donors who have contributed $15,000 or more toward the cost of training a person and their dog are invited to come to graduation to meet the team they have sponsored. This donation amount does not cover the real costs of training a team. If the donation has been given in memory or in honor of someone close to the donor, the dog may have an honorary title listed on the program in parenthesis next to his real name. In other words, the dog's name is changed for the day of graduation. You and the graduate, however, may still refer to the dog by his real name. When photos are taken, the donor will also have their photo taken with the graduate and dog. If your dog and his new partner are a sponsored team, you may also be asked to meet the donor on graduation day. Being chosen as a part of a sponsored team is an extra honor for your dog for which you can be justifiably proud.

In-home training procedures

Individuals receiving Guide Dogs through the "in-home" training process cannot attend graduation with their new guides. The whole purpose of this type of special training is to help a person with a visual impairment that cannot, for health or other personal reasons, attend one of the campus-based training classes. • Raisers can visit the dog on campus before it leaves for training • The instructor will take photos and a video, if possible, of the new team for the raiser's keepsake. • The raiser may attend a graduation where he or she will be introduced with an explanation of in-home training. • The raiser can make a statement at graduation similar to other raisers. • With the graduate's consent, a statement composed by the graduate may be read by Guide Dogs' staff. • With the graduate's consent, a phone call will be arranged between the raiser and the graduate.

Graduation for breeding stock

Selection of dogs to be added to the breeding colony is based on the results of training evaluations, physical and health screenings, and the needs of the colony in terms of pedigree and temperament types. Only those dogs that have met the highest physical and temperamental standards are considered for inclusion in the colony. A thorough review of the individual dog’s health and temperament assessments as well as those of his littermates, and the sire and dam’s previous production completes the selection process.

At present, the breeding colony consists of approximately 200 active breeders (160 females and 40 males). The role of the Breeding Department is to provide enough dogs of the breeds utilized, both in terms of quality and number, to meet the demands of the organization's two training facilities. (See "1-3 Our dogs" in section 1: Introduction to learn more about the breeding program at Guide Dogs for the Blind.)

Once a dog is added to the breeding colony, Guide Dogs then considers the placement of the dog in a custodial home within a 50-mile radius of the California campus. Raisers of breeders are given a special option to serve as the breeder custodian if they live within a 75-mile radius of California campus and meet the qualifications of a breeder custodian.

Guide Dogs carefully reviews each potential custodial family's application and home environment in order to ensure healthy, safe and secure homes for these valuable breeding stock dogs. The screening process includes completion of a written application, an interview and orientation at the California campus, and a home visit, including yard and fence evaluations. Finally, applicants are given an assessment of their current dog handling techniques and are provided with training tips and information. The ultimate goal is to obtain the best possible home for each individual dog being placed.

Once placed, breeding stock dogs are required to be kept in peak physical condition. This includes daily exercise, grooming, flea control and formal obedience training. The dogs must sleep indoors and be treated as beloved members of the family. To ensure their safety, breeders must always be kept on-leash when outdoors and only allowed to run freely in a securely fenced area.

Every raiser of a dog selected to become breeding stock will be invited to attend a graduation ceremony to formally present their dog and be recognized by Guide Dogs for their hard work and contribution. If you raise a dog that becomes a breeder, you will be notified when he or she produces his or her first litter of pups and will be given the opportunity to submit names for the puppies.

The raising of a dog that has become a breeder affords the opportunity for many visually impaired individuals to be served and makes a contribution to the organization that spans several years.

7-6 AFTER GRADUATION

Once the team returns home after graduation, the real work of guiding begins for your dog. He will be with his partner all hours of the day or night and guide him in all his or her daily travel activities. Access laws in the United States and Canada, including the Americans with Disabilities Act, permit guide dogs and their handlers to go everywhere the general public is allowed: stores, restaurants, office buildings, taxis, buses and all areas of public accommodation. As a guide, your dog will accompany his partner to work, to the store and almost everywhere else he or she goes.

Guide Dogs offer graduates post-graduation services including: • Appropriate veterinary reimbursement • Extensive follow-up services for the working life of the team, including home visits and telephone counseling.

Retired guides Some very special dogs devote most of their lives to helping their blind friends. Dogs can work for up to ten years or until they are no longer able to keep up with the rigors of the work. Old and gray, it is time for them to retire and for their partners to get a new guide. If you remember the sadness that you felt when you returned your puppy to Guide Dogs, try to imagine the sadness of a graduate who loses his constant companion and dependable guide to retirement. Guide Dogs for the Blind makes sure that all retired guides are found good homes if the graduate cannot keep the dog. The graduate also has the option to place his retired guide with friends or relatives.

If the graduate doesn't choose to keep or place his retired guide, the raiser may next be offered the retiree. Many raisers welcome retired guides into their homes. If the retired guide does not return to the raiser, our Dog Placement Department specializes in finding homes for any retired guides that may need to be placed. (See "Career change dog policy" in the Policies, forms and resources section for more information on dogs that are career changed or retired.)

7-7 HOW GUIDE DOGS PLACES THE PUPPIES YOU RAISE

It is difficult when you can't provide a home for a career changed dog when you have invested so much time, effort, and love raising it. We want you to know about our Dog Placement process and the time, effort, and love that go into each placement.

The process starts when someone notifies us of his or her desire to receive a dog from our program by submitting a Career Change Application. After careful review, only those who qualify are kept on file. Acceptable applications are entered into our computer database.

When a dog is career changed and the raiser is unable to take the dog back or has no close family member or close friend that can offer a quality home, the dog’s placement becomes the responsibility of the Dog Placement Department. We learn everything we can about the dog: the reason the dog was released from the program, the dog’s history in the puppy raising home (another reason completed project records are so helpful!), the training and socialization history and health history. We review the evaluations done in the field by the Community Field Representatives and, if the dog made it all the way back to the training program, we talk with the instructors and instructor assistants who may have trained and cared for the dog. From all the information we have gathered, we put together a basic profile of the kind of home we are looking for - a family with kids, a retired couple, a home without other dogs or cats, a family who has owned this type of dog before, etc.

By searching the available applications in the database, we develop a list of potential matches. Then, considering the dog's strengths and weaknesses, we spend hours reviewing the applications and talking on the phone with several potential adopters to find a home that seems best suited for the particular dog we are trying to place. Only when we feel we have a possible match do we indicate that we have a dog available. We then describe the dog in detail, always giving both the positives and negatives. It is very important to us to be straightforward about the dog. Our success in locating a permanent home is more likely if there is not a great deal of “surprises” when adopters take their new dog home.

A fence check must be completed before the dog goes to its new home. This check provides an opportunity for us to observe the home environment. Guide Dogs staff, leaders or volunteers may do fence checks.

Once the fence check is completed, the family is required to meet the dog on campus. We encourage the whole family to come, especially if there are young children in the household. During this meeting we spend a lot of time discussing dog behavior, teaching the family various training techniques (e.g. how to use a proper collar and leash correction along with praise and the basic obedience commands). It typically takes between one and two hours to educate the family and “show” the dog.

© Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 7: What’s next for your puppy Section 7-7 2/2003 How GDB Places Dogs right for them. If the campus meeting is not successful, the process begins again to search for a new, more appropriate home.

It takes time to find the right match. It is never a case of just assigning a dog to the next applicant on the list. As dogs wait for new homes, most adjust well to kennel-life, continuing to mature and learning from the instructor assistants who constantly work with them; grooming, exercising, and training.

Our primary goal is placing the dog with a family that will provide it with a lifetime of love, care, and companionship. Since our breeds are known to enjoy active involvement with their owners, we also encourage applications from those who are looking for dogs to enter into agility, obedience, tracking, search and rescue, pet facilitated therapy, and other disciplines and hobbies.

Thank you for the time, love, and care that you have put into raising a puppy for Guide Dogs for the Blind. Even though all dogs cannot become guides or breeders, we recognize that each dog is truly a unique and valued individual. We will continue to work hard to find loving and responsible homes for each. We know that you would want nothing less for your puppy!

Taking back your career change dog Let's suppose that you have just found out that the puppy you so carefully raised has been career changed. Now what?

Raisers have a great deal of attachment to the puppies that they loved, cared for, and trained, often watching them grow from cute, cuddly puppies into mature dogs. As a result of these heartfelt emotions, a raiser may feel obligated to take a career change dog back. We at Guide Dogs understand a raiser's feelings of love and responsibility to the puppy that they raised because we feel the same spirit of protectiveness. However, we place no responsibility on raisers to keep a dog that they have raised. Unless a raiser is sure that they can provide a lifetime quality home for a dog, we would prefer to place the dog through our Dog Placement Department.

Before deciding to take a career change dog back, please ask yourself the following questions • Are you considering taking the dog back only because you feel an obligation to the dog or Guide Dogs? • Have you considered that the dog may be a different dog in size and behaviors than the one that you returned for training several months ago? • Can you give the dog the best possible home for the rest of the dog’s life? • Do you have time to spend exercising and playing with the dog? • Does everyone in the home want the dog? • If you are a youth raiser, do your parents want the dog as much as you do? • If you are a youth raiser, will you be going to college or moving into your own home while the dog may be still living? What are your plans for the dog then? • Will the dog get along well with all family members: adults, small children and pets? • Do you have other dogs - a Guide Dogs puppy, other career change dogs, or pets – and will you be able to provide each with sufficient individual love and care? • Can you afford the food and veterinary care of a large-breed dog?

• Do you currently have a secure, fenced area (yard or dog run) at least 5 feet in height? • If your home has a pool, is it safely fenced? • Will the dog have adequate shelter from both the rain and sun? • Will the dog be inside the house (at least at night)? • How much time will the dog be alone? • If renting, do you have the landlord’s permission to have a dog?

If any of the preceding questions cause doubts, perhaps you would be better off letting a previous raiser accept the dog or letting Guide Dogs place the dog.

If you decide to accept the career change dog back as a pet • Guide Dogs will legally transfer the dog to you. • You must complete an "Agreement Confirming Gift of Dog" contract that transfers the dog from Guide Dogs to you. • Any transportation costs to return the dog to you are at your expense. • With the exception of a small number of pre-approved cases, veterinary and all other expenses are your responsibility. • If the dog doesn’t work out, please do not hesitate to notify and then return the dog to Guide Dogs. • If at any time in the dog's life you transfer the dog to a new home, please complete and return to Guide Dogs a "Supplemental Dog Transfer Form." • Raisers are not allowed to sell career change dogs. • If concerns about a dog's behavior or health arise, please contact the Guide Dogs’ Dog Placement dog evaluation specialist.

Placing your career change dog If you decide that you cannot personally keep the dog, you also have the option to place the dog. If you choose to place the dog yourself, you may only place the dog with a close friend or close family member. Guide Dogs has found that the placements of dogs by raisers with people whom they do not know extremely well are often not successful. If a raiser cannot keep a career change dog as their own or place the dog with a very trusted person, Guide Dogs will happily place the dog.

Guide Dogs takes great care, reinforced by years of experience, in the placing of career change dogs. Guide Dogs has two Dog Placement offices, one in California and one in Oregon, that are staffed by professionally trained people whose sole jobs are to screen, select, and educate prospective homes. We offer not only these preliminary services but also follow-up services to ensure that the dog is happy in the new home.

If you decide to place a career change dog with a close friend or family member, first, carefully ask yourself some questions about the dog • Does the dog have temperament, control, or behavior concerns that make him a challenging candidate for placement? • In offering this dog to a new home, can you be honest with the prospective adopters about all his behaviors, good and bad? • If the dog has problems in the adopters’ home, can you offer the resources to help work through the problem? • If this dog does not work out in his new home, are you willing to take him back or return him to Guide Dogs? © Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 7: What’s next for your puppy Section 7-7 2/2003 How GDB Places Dogs

• Would this dog be better placed by Guide Dogs’ experienced Dog Placement staff?

In deciding whether your close relative or close friend is a good candidate for a dog, ask yourself some general questions about the prospective home • Have you honestly and completely explained in detail all the dog's potential negative behaviors and/or health problems to the prospective adopter? • Does everyone in the home want the dog? • Is the potential adopter making a decision on impulse or as a surprise gift for someone else? This is not a good way to make such an important decision. • Will the dog get along well with all family members: adults, small children, and pets/livestock? • Is any one in the home allergic to dogs? • What is the prospective adopter's motivation in wanting this dog as a pet? • Are they interested in this dog because they really know and like him? • Have they spent any substantial amount of time with the dog? • Do they only want the dog because he is a "good deal?" • Do they only want the dog as a favor to you? • Do they only want the dog because he has come from Guide Dogs for the Blind? • Do they understand that all dogs have dog behaviors, good and bad, even ones from Guide Dogs? • Do they understand all the responsibility involved in providing a lifetime, loving home for a dog? • Are all their current pets well cared for, including grooming, housing, and vaccinations? • Have they had dogs in the past? What became of these dogs?

These general dynamics can often best predict a dog's happiness in a new home. If you have any concerns about the success of the proposed placement, please let Guide Dogs select a home instead.

If you are confident from the answers to the above questions that a prospective family may be a good candidate to receive the dog that you raised, ask the following • Can the prospective family afford the food and veterinary care of a large-breed dog? • Do they have time to spend exercising and playing with the dog? • Do they have a secure, fenced area (yard or dog run) at least 5 feet in height? • If the potential home has a pool, is it safely fenced? • Will the dog be inside (at least at night)? • Is adequate shelter provided from both rain and sun? • How much time will the dog be alone? • If renting, do they have the landlord’s permission to have a dog? • Are they able and willing to obtain and use a crate? • Will they take a dog through obedience classes or private training to better understand and control the dog? • Are they familiar with the grooming needs of this breed? • Are they willing to provide flea control? • Are they planning to move in the near future?

If you are satisfied that the dog you are placing fits well with the applicant • Introduce the dog to the adopters at their home. • Make sure that no family members are intimidated by the dog, • Make sure that all family members are gentle and kind, yet consistent. • Make sure that there are no possible conflicts with other pets, inside and outside the home. • Double check the yard for safety and security.

If you decide to place the dog in this new home • Any transportation costs to transport the dog to the new home are yours or the adopters. • Raisers are not allowed to sell career change dogs. • With the exception of a small number of pre-approved cases, veterinary and all other expenses are the responsibility of the adopters. • If questions arise in the new home that you cannot answer, please ask the adopters to contact the Dog Placement Department's dog evaluation specialist who will consult with them. • Ask the adopters that if it doesn’t work out to please contact you or Guide Dogs directly to return the dog to us.

If you don’t feel right about a potential new owner, tell them "no.”

If you have any uncertainties, please let us place the dog. The Dog Placement Department is available to place the dog from either campus in the event that you don’t feel comfortable with your options. Since the quality of the dog’s life depends on this placement, take your time and don’t take chances!

Thank you for all the love and effort that you spent raising a puppy for Guide Dogs for the Blind. Thank you also for helping us find a permanent, happy home for each dog from our program.

Please help us fulfill our responsibilities by letting Guide Dogs for the Blind’s Dog Placement staff find homes for any dog in need of a home.

Guide Dogs for the Blind will gladly accept back any dog that is returned to us at any stage of the dog’s life.

We feel a great debt to all our dogs - guides, breeders, and career change - that have contributed to our mission. We have a lifelong responsibility to them all.

Please help us fulfill our responsibility by returning to us any dog that is from our program and that is in need of a home.

PUPPY RAISING POLICY Guide Dogs for the Blind

Guide Dogs for the Blind believes that early home and community socialization is an essential component in the successful development of a Guide Dog. To that end, the organization enlists the volunteer support of puppy raisers and leaders to socialize and prepare Guide Dog puppies for future training in guidework.

The purpose of this policy is to ensure that our volunteer raisers and leaders understand what is expected of them and agree to make every effort within reason to prepare our puppies for guidework training in accordance with the procedures set forth by the Puppy Raising Department. The Puppy Raising and Leader Manuals along with seminars, communications and guidance are provided to ensure consistency in technique and provide clear explanations of expectations and responsibilities.

Guide Dog raisers, leaders and puppy raising clubs must be approved by the Puppy Raising Department and are under the direct supervision of Community Field Representatives or CFR. CFR’s are responsible for conveying Guide Dog policies and procedures and ensuring that Guide Dog puppies are raised in environments that are optimal for their development.

Policy Terms and Definitions:

Guide Dogs puppy raiser: A youth or adult who applies for the position; agrees to meet GDB’s expectations for puppy raisers, and is approved by a GDB-approved leader and a GDB puppy raising CFR.

Guide Dogs leader: An adult individual approved by a GDB puppy raising CFR or the director of the Puppy Raising and Dog Placement Department. In addition, if the club also operates under 4-H auspices, the individual must have an approval letter from the appropriate County Extension Agent.

Guide Dogs puppy raising A GDB approved puppy raising group will consist of a minimum club: of three (3) approved raiser families and one (1) approved leader. Generally, the ratio of puppies to leaders should not exceed six (6) to one (1). Exceptions may be permitted with the approval of the area GDB puppy raising CFR or the director of the Puppy Raising and Dog Placement Department.

Youth: A person nine (9) years of age through nineteen (19) years of age.

11/2008 BASIC REQUIREMENTS OF PUPPY RAISERS Guide Dogs for the Blind

All Guide Dog puppy raisers are required to: • Be approved to raise by both a GDB approved leader and the current GDB Community Field Rep. • Agree to abide by all instructions, guidelines, policies and procedures presented by Guide Dogs staff, supervisory volunteers, written documents and other means • Undergo a home visit by a GDB approved leader (this includes all homes in which the puppy will reside). • Use GDB approved training and management techniques when working with or caring for GDB puppies. • Raise the puppy inside as a housedog. • Provide a safe and securely fenced yard and/or a safe and secure confinement area for relieving the pup. The outside area must contain shelter from the elements and access to water. • Provide a method to care for and relieve the puppy at least every 4-5 hours during the daytime until the puppy is six months old. • Attend and participate in at least 80% of regularly scheduled club meetings and outings. • Provide an environment free of dogs with a history of aggression. • Provide direct supervision when the puppy is with other dogs. • Leave the puppy in a safe, harm free environment (particularly not to leave the puppy alone for extended periods of time in a fenced yard). • Provide appropriate food, grooming, flea/tick control and veterinary care. • Securely fence swimming pools, spas and other bodies of water to prevent unsupervised access by the puppy. • Keep all their pet cats and dogs current on their vaccinations and flea/tick control. • Provide a safe setting for teaching the puppy to remain alone, unconfined in the home. We strongly recommend that raisers have a crate. • Complete and submit monthly to their club leader, a GDB Puppy Raiser’s Monthly Report

Guidelines for co-raisers and individuals with multiple dogs: • The total number of dogs allowed in any GDB puppy raiser home will vary with each individual’s home situation. The leader must give approval for multiple dog households with final approval by the CFR. • GDB puppies may not reside within a home containing another animal that GDB staff determines presents a hazard to the puppy’s safety or development or that the puppy may endanger. • The maximum number of GDB puppies allowed in any one raiser or puppy sitting home is two. • A GDB puppy and any other puppy being raised by the same household must be at least 8 months apart in age. • A single individual may raise only one GDB puppy or other service dog at a time.

The above list of requirements and guidelines is not comprehensive. Raisers and leaders are required to follow all instructions, guidelines, policies and procedures presented by Guide Dogs’ staff, supervisory volunteers, written documents and other means.

11/2008 KEEPING PUPPIES ON LEASH Guide Dogs for the Blind

Summary of Policies regarding Puppies on Leash Let’s Prevent Lost Puppies!!!

• Guide Dog puppies must wear the Guide Dog identification collar at all times.

• Do not go for walks or runs with your puppy off-leash, even in remote or rural areas. It only takes a moment of inattention or distraction to lose track of your pup.

• Guide Dog puppies are never to be allowed off-leash except when in a totally enclosed and secure area. Guide Dog pups are not allowed at “dog parks” on or off-leash.

• Use a long line or retractable leash to exercise your pup, keeping hold of the line and maintaining control when exercising your puppy in unfenced or unsecured areas.

• Always use your leash when taking your pup to the run, car or in any unfenced area. Keep the leash in a convenient location so there is no temptation to take him out ”just this once”. Once may be all it takes to lose your puppy!

• Always check gates and doors to outside exits before letting pup out.

• Use a chain with a snap bolt to secure kennel gates and fence gates whenever possible. This extra step ensures that you have securely closed off the enclosure.

• Whenever possible, padlock gates which are not regularly used and could lead to escape! Remember that young children often forget to close gates when busy playing and that friends may not know the rules.

• Provide good latches which close securely. Check regularly to be sure they are still working properly. Replace any poorly working latches as soon as possible.

• Teach all household members and visitors to close doors and gates behind them.

• Take extra precautions when friends, relatives and workers are visiting. Keep pup on leash or in kennel run if there is a lot of activity in which people are coming and going and the pup cannot be supervised.

• Teach pup to wait at doors, gates, and when exiting vehicles.

• Do regular, and frequent inspections of fence perimeters and runs. Check for holes or weak areas and repair them immediately (Other dogs could dig in!).

PUPPY RAISING TOY POLICY Guide Dogs for the Blind

Toys are an important part a puppy’s development. Appropriate toys provide mental stimulation, an outlet for normal chewing drive, and provide a positive alternative to destructive chewing of personal property.

A stimulating variety of toys keeps the puppy occupied. Puppies, like children, become bored with the same toys; it is highly recommended that types of toys are rotated frequently. Puppies should have a number of toys to choose from at all times; not only does this help keep the pup engaged but also reduces the chance of him ultimately becoming protective of his toys.

Not all toys currently on the market are safe for the ages, size or breeds of puppies in our program. In addition, some toys and activities are counter productive to developing a working guide. Remember, a guide must willingly work past common distractions such as balls, Frisbees or other toys encountered in everyday life.

Toys can be an effective tool in reducing attention seeking behaviors such as ‘keep away’. Puppies pick up unacceptable items and ‘parade’ them to get raisers’ attention; praising and admiring the pup that parades his toys will make him less likely to steal household items. A pup that brings his toys to the raiser is to be encouraged, but under no circumstances should raisers throw toys for a pup or participate in retrieve games.

Even the best toys experience normal wear and tear. Toys should be routinely checked for any damage, splintering or wear. Special attention should be paid to ensure the toy has not become worn to the point of becoming too small, thus posing a choking or ingesting hazard. Some dogs are voracious chewers and will destroy even the strongest, safest toys. Observe your puppy and use toys with caution with strong chewers.

In special circumstances CFRs may recommend a food stuffed Kong. Only the CFR, may recommend food in a toy. Soaked kibble, frozen in the Kong is the only allowed food.

The toys in the list below have been carefully researched by GDB staff; these are the only toys that may be accessed by a program puppy. Be sure to stay with the brand names listed below as not all toys are of good quality material.

List of Approved Toys:

General use toys (these toys can be left readily available for a pup to play with at will):

• Kong brand: black original and Ultra Kong 6”, Planet Kong “Xtreme Goodie Ship” (no food placed in it) black Kongs are stronger than red ones • Galileo 5” or 6” by Nylabone, also now packaged as ‘Dino Bones’ • Nylabone products: Nyla Wishbone, Nyla Ring, Nyla Knot, Dinosaur, any Nylabone (original hard material) that is appropriately robust enough for the size of puppy. This includes ‘Big Chews’; the red tire is OK but the yellow one is softer and not approved. The colored ‘keys’ are not approved. • Sterilized Bones: at least 4” long (No smoked or meaty bones) • Goughnuts, green for most puppies and black for extremely hard chewers

With Supervision only:

10/2008

• Cressite ring and Fig 8 tug toy • FrameBall by Pedigree– tug toy • Combat Extreme Bone by Bamboo Pet – tug toy • Knotted rope toys: large, with no attachments • Jollyball (no handle) with a rope through it, sold as Romp-N-Roll. Toss ‘n’ Floss is a similar large ball with rope through it, also approved. • Gallon sized or larger plastic bottles: Thoroughly rinsed, lids labels and tops removed (orange juice or detergent bottles only) • Bounzerballs by Kong.

Tug toys should be put up, away from the puppy, after the game to maintain a balanced relationship. All of the above toys may be used as interactive toys. Puppies must be directly observed while playing with any of the above toys as there is a possibility that they may shred and ingest these toys.

Restricted, for young puppies only (up to 4 months):

• Gummabone or Flexibone products • Dental Chew toys • Hercules bones • Flat, unstuffed faux fleece toys; no squeakers

Unacceptable toys:

• Edible toys: cornstarch bones, rawhide chews/toys, pigs ears, cow hooves • Balls • Frisbees • Retrieving toys • Raw bones • Sticks • Personal items: socks, children’s toys etc. • Anything not on the approved list

10/2008

PUPPY RAISING PLAY POLICY Guide Dogs for the Blind

Acceptable Types of Play

• Tug games with one person or hide-and-seek games with two people (See game procedures in 3: Caring for your puppy section. Please use the proper methods of playing these games). • “Hanging out” together • Stroking the puppy • Placing a Nylabone or Kong on the floor for limited periods of chewing • Supervised gentle play outside with other dogs • Supervised swimming within a fenced area or on leash • Walks on leash

Unacceptable Types of Play

• Retrieving or fetch with any kind of toy or object -- anytime or anywhere • Pushing, shoving, wrestling or any form of rough-housing • Keep away, tag or other forms of chase games • Tug games with other pets • Rough play with other pets • Running through the house • Swinging your puppy off the ground while playing tug games (helicopter dog) • Play that includes growling with hackling (lifting of hair along the backbone and shoulders)

10/2008 PUPPY RAISING NUTRITIONAL POLICY

We appreciate the cooperation of all raisers and leaders in complying with the following puppy raising nutritional policy:

Guide Dogs for the Blind feeds and recommends Hill’s Science Diet formulas for all of our dogs. At the GDB puppy kennel, prior to placement in a raiser home, puppies are fed Hill’s Science Diet Lamb Meal & Rice Puppy Large Breed, a formula selected through collaboration between the GDB Veterinary and Kennel Departments. Research has shown, and GDB experience concurs, that large breed diets are effective in helping to limit certain canine orthopedic maladies.

Leaders and Community Field Representatives (CFRs) will educate raisers on feeding puppies, emphasizing proper body conditioning which will enhance health and improved orthopedic development. Raisers will feed Hill’s Science Diet Lamb Meal & Rice Puppy Large Breed until the puppy is at least of 12 months of age.

Raisers will start feeding 8-week-old pups 1 cup, 3 times a day and then slowly increase the amount of food following instructions given by their leaders and the feeding guidelines in the Puppy Raising Manual. At your first puppy meeting, ask your leader when and how much to increase your puppy’s food. Because each puppy is different, it may require different feeding amounts than what is listed on the puppy food bag or in this policy.

If your puppy is not doing well on Hill’s Science Diet, have your leader speak to your CFR, who can evaluate the dog’s individual needs and make additional suggestions in feeding schedules, home behavior monitoring, feeding amounts, and diets.

CFR’s will notify the GDB Veterinary Clinic of any dog's dietary change for recording in the veterinary record. In addition, within their final Project Record, raisers will record any dietary change, the date of change, and the factors for the change.

Dogs in training at our campuses are fed Hill’s Science Diet Lamb Meal & Rice Adult. In order to provide for a more seamless transition of puppies from raising homes to the training kennel, we recommend that raisers gradually switch their puppies to Hill’s Science Diet Lamb Meal & Rice Adult at 12 months of age. Raisers should make the change to the new diet over a period of 5–7 days, gradually replacing the previous food with the new one.

• At GDB's determination, variations may occur in the above policy guidelines for a variety of reasons, including a. The special needs of individual dogs under the supervision of or consultation with the GDB Veterinary Clinic. b. Future research in canine nutrition c. Further knowledge gained by GDB through GDB conducted food trials or other research.

Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. Effective December 2007 Policy: Boarding Female Dogs In-Season

Guide Dogs for the Blind has adapted the following policy for the boarding of female puppies in season. This policy governs all puppies placed on or after February 15, 2003:

Raisers who choose to raise unspayed female puppies have the following options for housing in- season female puppies: • At home • In the home of an approved puppy sitter • At a commercial kennel at raiser expense • At Guide Dogs for the Blind’s San Rafael or Topanga kennels. Both the San Rafael and Topanga kennels have capacity limits by population. If the kennels are at capacity for the boarding of in-season female dogs, raisers will be required to choose one of the other three approved options.

Homes (raiser or puppy sitter) will be required to follow certain guidelines while the dog is in- season, including: • Female canine seasons (proestrus and estrus) generally run for approximately 21 days, but individual dogs may stay in-season for longer periods (see "Education" section to follow). It is during this period when females attract male dogs and enter their fertile period. The following guidelines are effective from the first through the 28th day of a dog's season or longer as required. Only the club leader may release a dog from the management of these guidelines after a consultation between the raiser and leader to insure that the dog is out-of- season. • The raiser's leader must approve participating homes. • Yard and home security should be of the highest standard. Marginally safe fencing and doors or young children who could possibly leave doors and gates open may disqualify a home. • No unaltered or recently altered (within the past six weeks) male dogs may live in the home. • The close proximity of neighboring or loose unaltered dogs may disqualify a home. • Participating raisers must be capable dog handlers. • Participating raisers must have a demonstrated willingness and ability to follow all guidelines. • All participating raisers and family members must be trained by their leaders prior to boarding a female dog in-season. • No outings outside of the home or yard are allowed. • No interaction with unaltered male dogs is allowed. • While in the house and not under direct supervision of a raiser or GDB trained family member, a dog must be confined to a crate. • Dogs may not be left in a yard, pen or kennel without direct supervision by a raiser or GDB trained family member. Male dogs can be attracted to the scent of an estrus female dog from long distances and can be extremely determined to enter even well confined areas, thus, the need for direct supervision. • Any dog that becomes lost, loose, or otherwise unsupervised must be reported immediately to the raiser's advisor or the Puppy Raising Department office regardless of the time period that the dog has been unsupervised. • Any in-season female dog that comes in any contact with an unaltered male dog must be reported immediately to the raiser's advisor or the Puppy Raising Department office.

Guide Dogs for the Blind 1 1-27-03

Education: Boarding Female Dogs In-Season

Guide Dogs for the Blind 2 1-27-03

Education: Boarding Female Dogs In-Season -cont-

Other behavioral indicators may or may not be present. During and in the time surrounding a dog’s season, there may be a change in overall activity levels, with the female becoming much more active and “busy.” The change in behaviors may include flagging (raising the tail), play bowing or tipping forward, increased barking or whining, inability to settle or relax, and becoming more destructive. There may be an increase in level of thirst or appetite, and a change in elimination habits. The female may seem nervous or more high-strung. These behavioral changes can begin to occur up to three or four weeks before the physical signs of the heat cycle. More commonly, they occur in the week before the physical signs begin. In some females, there may be no noticeable change in behaviors at all. In others, just one or two of those listed. Also, behavioral changes do not always indicate the onset of the heat cycle. At the beginning of her cycle, the female may become less tolerant of other dogs approaching or sniffing her. She may lift her lip, growl, hackle, or even snap at the other dog. Instead of wagging her tail when other dogs sniff her rear, she may tuck it tightly straight down against her body. This does not mean she is becoming aggressive. It is a normal behavioral change. She will be her friendly self once again when her cycle is over. If you suspect a silent heat cycle, notify your advisor through your leader.

Any sign of recurring discharge or swelling requires additional management by the prescribed guidelines and must be reported immediately to the club leader who will speak to your advisor.

Again, please always remember that exceptions to any patterns are frequent and that all dogs must be managed individually and with caution.

A leader who is uncertain of a dog's reproductive cycle should consult with his/her advisor, who may recommend a veterinary consult with the GDB veterinary clinic.

Any female in-season dogs that come into contact with an unaltered male dog or become loose, lost, or otherwise unsupervised must be reported immediately to the advisor or the Puppy Raising Department office if the advisor is unavailable.

We believe that this program presents an excellent opportunity for raisers to maintain the training and bond, which they devote to the puppies that they raise. We also respect raisers’ abilities to safely house puppies in all instances. This program is representative of that trust. We appreciate the extra efforts of those who decide to undertake these additional responsibilities.

Guide Dogs for the Blind 3 1-27-03

REASONS FOR PLACING OR RETAINING A PUPPY IN THE HOME Guide Dogs for the Blind

Guide Dogs for the Blind reserves the right to place or remove a puppy from a home at the organization’s discretion. Puppies will not be placed or are removed if it is our belief that they are in danger of death, injury, or other health concerns. Puppies may also be removed if it is believed that they are not being socialized or trained in a manner that best develops them as potential Guide Dogs.

Possible reasons for the non-placement or removal of a Guide Dog puppy from a home include: • A home containing another animal that Guide Dogs staff determines presents a hazard to the puppy's safety or development. • A home containing any person that Guide Dogs staff determines presents a hazard to the puppy’s safety or development. • A home containing another animal that Guide Dogs staff determines may be endangered by the puppy. • A home containing any person that Guide Dogs staff determines may be endangered by the puppy. • Physical abuse of the dog or puppy • Use of unapproved corrections • Lack of proper health care: veterinary, nutrition, parasite control, grooming • Lack of adequate socialization • Inability of the raiser or significant family members to control the puppies’ actions • Repeated instances of the puppy getting loose or lost • Injury of the puppy through willful disregard to Guide Dog guidelines • Poor attendance by the raiser at required Guide Dog group activities • Endangerment to the puppy because of unsafe living conditions • Poor compliance by the raiser with Guide Dog policies, procedures, or recommendations • Relocation of a raiser to an area that is not supervised by a Guide Dogs for the Blind Puppy Raising Department employee • Inappropriate representation of the Guide Dog program to the public or media

If staff determines that a career change dog that a raiser wishes to accept in his or her home is an unsuitable match for a Guide Dog puppy, the raiser must either decline the career change dog or return the puppy.

Guide Dogs for the Blind acknowledges that the death, severe injury, or loss of a Guide Dog puppy is devastating for everyone involved. It is a loss for the raiser, the family, the leader, the club, and Guide Dogs. We feel it is important that the family and raiser take time to grieve their loss.

Guide Dogs will not automatically replace the puppy or return an injured puppy to the raiser. The Puppy Raising advisor or leader will discuss all of the circumstances of the situation with the family. The leader and Puppy Raising advisor will then evaluate when, and if, it is appropriate for the family to raise another pup. Homes in which a puppy is injured due to willful non-compliance with Guide Dogs guidelines will not be allowed to continue puppy raising.

Guide Dogs for the Blind develops its policies and procedures to provide for the safety and well-being, along with the positive socialization and training needed for every puppy to reach its full potential as a Guide Dog. Helpful Resources for Puppy Raisers Guide Dogs for the Blind

There are many books and internet sites on the subject of dog guides, puppy raising and blindness. The following list provides a sampling. Although some outlined programs that differ in philosophies and techniques from those used by Guide Dogs for the Blind, we believe there are things to be learned from each of these books and internet sites. Happy reading!

Available from our Guide Dog campus gift shops: A GUIDE DOG PUPPY GROWS UP Caroline Arnold LOOKING AHEAD: A HISTORY OF GUIDE DOGS FOR THE BLIND Paula Harrington OUT OF DARKNESS: THE STORY OF LOUIS BRAILLE Russell Freedman TEACHERS PET (AMERICAN GIRL SERIES) Laurie Halse Anderson THE GUIDE DOG MYSTERY Gertrude C. Warner THE STORY OF SUNSHINE (COLORING BOOK) Produced by GDB

For younger readers: BANNER FORWARD * Eva Rappaport BRAVE COMPANIONS R.A. Knight BUDDY: THE FIRST SEEING EYE DOG Eva Moore FOLLOW MY LEADER James B. Garfield LIGHT A SINGLE CANDLE * Beverly Butler LOOKING OUT FOR SARAH Glenna Lang THROUGH OTIS’ EYES Patricia Kennedy

Blindness and dog guides: A DOG TO TRUST: SAGA OF A SEEING EYE DOG J.E. Chipperfield EMMA, V.I.P. Sheila Hocken FIRST LADY OF THE SEEING EYE Morris Frank & B. Clark I NEVER WALKED ALONE Jessie Hickford LEADER DOGS FOR THE BLIND Margaret Gibbs LEADING THE WAY: THE STORY OF LEADER DOGS Williams Eisenberg LOVE IN THE LEAD * Peter Putnam NONE SO BLIND Bernice Clifton THE LEADING LADY: DINAH’S STORY Tom Sullivan & Betty White

Raising and training: APPLIED DOG BEHAVIOR AND TRAINING Steven Lindsay GUIDE DOGS FOR THE BLIND: SELECTION, DEVELOPMENT & TRAINING Clarence Pfaffenberger NEW KNOWLEDGE OF DOG BEHAVIOR Clarence Pfaffenberger

Internet Sites: BLINDNESS ORGANIZATIONS AND RESOURCES www.guidedogs.com/Resources HOTEL LISTINGS WHERE PETS ARE WELCOME www.petswelcome.com

* These books are currently out of print. However, you may be able to obtain a copy through your local library or an online store that sells used books, such as www.amazon.com. Many of these authors may have additional books written about similar topics.

Guide Dogs for the Blind Canine Community Programs P.O. Box 151200 San Rafael, CA 94915-1200 (800) 295-4050 Fax: (415) 472-0128

FUN THINGS ABOUT MY PUPPY

This form is a brief history that Guide Dogs would like to give to your puppy’s new caretaker, who could be a Guide Dog user, a breeder keeper, or a career change adopter.

This completed form should accompany your puppy when he returns for Guide Dog training. This information is appreciated by whoever will receive your puppy. We encourage you to also include any photos of your puppy.

Dog’s name: ______Tattoo#: ______

Raiser’s name: ______

Address: ______

City/State/Zip Code: ______

Phone number(s): ______

E-mail address: ______

I would like to provide the above contact information to the new caretaker: ____ YES ____ NO

Signature of raiser: ______Date:______

If raiser is under 18 years, guardian name: ______

Signature: ______Date:______

Page 1 of 2 FUN THINGS ABOUT MY PUPPY

Dog’s name:______Tattoo #: ______Including this puppy, I have raised _____ guide dog puppies.

My puppy’s home environment: ______

______

My puppy’s favorite companions (family members, work pals, other pets): ______

______

My puppy’s bedtime routine: ______

______

My puppy’s daily diet consists of: ______

______

Let me tell you about my puppy’s personality: ______

______

My puppy’s favorite travel adventure was: ______

______

Guide Dogs for the Blind Page 2 of 2 Date: ______Contact: Guide Dog Puppy Raiser:______Phone: ______E-mail: ______

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

DOG GRADUATES AS GUIDE DOG

Local resident ______contributed time and love in raising a puppy for Guide Dogs for the Blind, and was proud to see the dog graduate as a guide in a formal ceremony at the Guide Dog campus in (San Rafael, Calif., or Boring, Ore.), on Saturday, ______.

Shown in the attached photo is puppy raiser ______who presented Guide Dog “______”, a ______breed, to graduating student: ______.

Puppy raiser ______is a member of the local Guide Dog Puppy Raising Club ______led by ______. The club has ______members who volunteer in a variety of jobs.

Guide Dogs for the Blind uses yellow and black Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers and Lab/Golden Crosses as guides. The puppies are born at the Guide Dog kennels and placed in the homes of volunteer puppy raisers when they are about two months old. The puppy raisers socialize the pups by housebreaking them, teaching them to be good canine citizens and introducing them to new experiences.

The pups are returned to Guide Dogs for formal guidework training when they are 14 to 18 months old. Following the completion of training, the dogs are matched with blind students enrolled at the school. The new person-dog team completes an intensive in-residence course culminating with a graduation ceremony at which the raiser formally presents the dog to the dog’s new partner who is blind.

Guide Dogs for the Blind has been creating life-long partnerships in the community by providing skilled dogs and training in their use free of charge since 1942. They receive no government funding but depend entirely on private donations. If you know someone who could benefit from a Guide Dog, please let them know about this program. To get involved, contact Guide Dogs for the Blind at 800 295-4050; or visit www.guidedogs.com.

RECALL FOR TRAINING

PHASE DESCRIPTIONS

Where your dog goes next………

INTRODUCTION – TRAINING PHASES

In an effort to provide raisers and leaders with more knowledge about what the dogs-in- training do after they return to one of our campuses, we will provide weekly reports to each puppy raising club. These reports will tell the training phase of each dog. There are ten phases of training.

Attached are descriptions of activities included in each phase. By tracking the dog that you raised by his phase number and by then referring to the matching phase narrative, you can better understand our training process and your individual dog’s role in it.

There is no clear defining line between each phase as there is in the case of a grade schooler who "graduates" from grade two to grade three. Guide Dog training is a seamless process in which a dog progresses at its own pace, slowly transitioning from one phase to the other. The work at each phase level builds upon the skills learned in previous ones.

Each phase is generally two to three weeks in lengths. Some dogs may advance through phases more quickly than others, but speed may not be any indicator of likelihood of eventual graduation. It is also true that a dog that seems to spend too much time in a phase may be only working on perfecting a single task before moving forward. Raisers, please do not feel disappointed if progress seems slow. Likewise, do not become too eager if progress seems quick.

Raisers should also be cautioned against plotting out on a calendar an anticipated graduation date. Dogs are usually in training for four to five months, but some dogs may stay in training for nine months or more. If a dog stays a long time in training, don't be disappointed. It may not mean that we do not like the dog; it may mean that we like him very much! In recent years, Guide Dogs has made changes in our training staffing, schedules, and protocols that allow us to spend more time developing each dog. We try our best to give each dog all the love, care, and training that it needs to become a Guide Dog prospect.

The guide dog of today needs to be Superdog compared to the guide dog of the past. In the last few decades, since the founding of Guide Dogs for the Blind, the world has become an increasingly confusing environment for guide dogs. They carry the responsibility for the safety not just of themselves but for their blind or visually impaired partner as well. Cars are more dangerous (faster and quieter); noise has increased (construction equipment, concerts, movie theaters); intersections are varied with a thousand different designs of intersecting paths, slopes, and angles. Take a walk on a busy city street and study it from the perspective of a guide dog needing to travel it safely, calmly and confidently. Quite amazing, isn't it?

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The instructors work hard to prepare each guide candidate for the challenges of this new world. Unfortunately, dogs that may have been ideal guides in the more slowly paced, less confusing world of not long ago might be career changed today. Guide Dogs believes that we are breeding better dogs than ever, that we are screening them better for health and temperament, and that raisers and staff are working harder…all in an attempt to keep up with a world that seems to getting more complex.

In the phase descriptions that follow, we have shared information with you that we never have before this project's inception. We talk about many of the training exercises and commands that are not taught in the raiser homes. The success of this new reporting method and of our dogs depends upon all raisers supporting our efforts by not teaching these guidework commands or exercises in their homes. Raisers who may attempt to give their dogs "a head start" by teaching the guidework discussed in this package are, in fact, very negatively impacting the dog's potential to become a guide. Improperly, inconsistently, or untimely taught guide commands or exercises will damage a dog's chance to become a guide. Please do not try to teach your puppy the techniques we discuss in this package, please only teach the ones discussed in your Guide Dog Puppy Manual.

At certain times a dogs’ weekly training report may reflect a phase that differs from their previous weeks report. Passing a dog back does not necessarily reflect concerns, but always reflects that we continue to see positive traits in the dog. One reason for this occurring is because each string of dogs are in various stages of training, the phase of a dog who is transferred from one string to another, which can occur for several reasons, will change. For example, a dog who is in phase ten, and considered “class ready”, is not selected for class. This dog will subsequently be passed back and will be available for placement in the next class. Since the string that this dog has been passed to will be in a different phase, probably a lower phase, the dog will also be formally documented as being in the lower phase, even though they have technically completed phase ten and is considered “class ready”.

On weekly Phase Reports you will also see a notation if your dog is on "breeding watch." If the dog is on "breeding watch," we are still considering it as a breeder. If a dog is no longer on "breeding watch," it will be neutered if that procedure has not already been done while in the raiser home.

Some dogs, unfortunately, do not go on to become either guides or breeders. These dogs are what we call career change dogs. Near the end of this package you will see several articles on career change dogs that will help you better understand your possible options on receiving the dog back. You’ll also learn how Guide Dogs takes every effort to find loving, caring homes for those dogs we place.

Guide Dogs for the Blind has been very successful for many, many years. Our success is dependent upon all those many successes that you have at home - teaching your puppy to

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not relieve in the house, to only relieve on command, to respond to every obedience command, to be unafraid of distractions in your community, and to love and trust people.

Dogs can be career changed for many factors not in a raiser's control, including a dog's health, temperament, or guidework skills. A raiser's success should be measured by the amount of love, effort, and time spent with a puppy. If you worked your hardest and did your best, you should be proud of both yourself and your puppy. We are!

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PHASE 1 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG TRAINING

Week 0 Before formal training begins, the new dog is introduced to the Guide Dog kennels, campus walks and the formal training program.

The first step for each dog during this important transitional period is receiving a physical exam, which is usually performed by a Canine Welfare Technician (CWT). They thoroughly check each dog from head to tail and check the nose, teeth, eyes, ears, coat, skin and feet. Any ailments, abnormalities or concerns are noted by the attending CWT and are brought to the attention of the Veterinary staff. Most dogs that enter training are in excellent condition, while some will require medication for minor ailments such as an ear infections or conjunctivitis. Within the first week on campus: 9 A staff veterinarian x-rays each dog’s hips. 9 A staff veterinarian will examine any abnormality noted during the physical 9 An eye specialist formally checks each dog’s eyes. 9 Gets an accurate weight During this initial examination each dog also receives vaccines for: 9 Distemper 9 Hepatitis 9 Parvovirus 9 Parainfluenza 9 Bordatella 9 Rabies

After the hip x-ray and eye check are completed, some dogs will be put on the breeding "watch list." All others still intact will be neutered or spayed. Those dogs being considered for the Breeding Colony, but end up not selected will be altered later, once the Training and Breeding departments have evaluated them.

When the physical examinations have been completed, each dog is formally assigned to a string and a specific training kennel. A string consists of approximately 35 – 55 dogs in San Rafael and 20 – 25 dogs in Oregon. This count depends on the number of students expected to enter class training following the completion of the string's training, which takes approximately five months. Most strings are overseen by five instructors and four to five Canine Welfare Technicians in San Rafael and three instructors and two CWTs in Oregon.

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Before formal obedience training begins, each dog’s personality and controllability are evaluated to prepare instructors in how to motivate and teach each dog most effectively.

Phase one normally coincides with the team of Instructors returning from a graduate follow up trip, after they have completed a class. Until the team is back, the CWTs and the float instructor staff care for the new dogs by: 9 taking them for walks on campus 9 integrating the dogs into community run play sessions 9 matching roommates in the kennel to ensure happy pairs that play well together 9 daily grooming 9 administering any medication 9 ensuring that the dogs are eating well 9 human and dog interactive play sessions 9 providing kennel enrichment activities

Kennel enrichment is anything that stimulates the senses and decreases stress in a kennel environment. The Canine Welfare Technicians’ primary focus is to care and provide kennel enrichment for the dogs in the kennel. Some enrichment takes place daily for every dog, while other activities are done intermittently, while other activities are targeted towards specific dogs (stressed dogs, boarding and retired guides, career changes, breeding stock waiting for homes). Kennel enrichment activities are continuously evolving and the CWT staff is continually coming up with ways to entertain and stimulate your puppies. Enrichment activities consist of the following variety:

9 Bones and chewable toys 9 Food stuffed Kongs and ice cubes 9 Hanging toys with or without food in them 9 Plush and squeaky toys – these toys are closely monitored and are not recommended to our raisers or graduates 9 Interactive toys 9 Baby pools filled with water or a toy put in them 9 Playground equipment 9 Scents: vanilla, peppermint, anise, lemon, almond, etc sprayed in the kennel on the ground 9 Bubbles 9 Mirrors 9 Wind catchers 9 Sound Machines 9 Music 9 Wellness room: T-Touch, massage, and Reiki 9 Behavior Training for dogs that need additional socialization or for career changes or breeders waiting for placement.

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9 Exercise: walks, treadmill, yards 9 Pilates 9 Cuddle Time

Training department staff is carefully observing each new arriving string of dogs in order to make sure that each dog is making as smooth an adjustment to the kennels as possible. Dogs can receive additional: 9 Kennel enrichment programs 9 Agility programs 9 Play sessions in community run 9 Frequent walks on campus 9 Consistent, supervised, time in the Training department office 9 Nights spent supervised in the dormitory 9 Any specialized programs specific to the needs of that dog (vet care, extra time in the office, etc.)

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PHASE 2 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG TRAINING

Approximately Weeks 1-2 Formal Training Begins Using “The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs™“ (BEST Guide Dogs™)

Food Reward and Clicker Techniques The desired goal of adopting food reward techniques into formal training was to discover a more effective means to reward and motivate dogs to work in general. With the working environments for guide dogs becoming increasingly more stressful, any means of creating a more positive attitude towards guide dog work was sought after. After several successful food reward trials we found that dogs in training were demonstrating higher levels of confidence in work and graduates were experiencing quick and encouraging results with using food as a supplement to praise. Following 4 years of success using food rewards GDB has trialed and successfully adopted Clicker Training Techniques into all aspects of formal training. Through 2005 and 2006 all instructor staff was educated and coached in applying clicker techniques in string training. An ongoing professional Clicker Training consultant continues to be utilized as techniques are expanded and modified to best suit the goals in guide dog training. During the first week of training lots of time is spent with each dog teaching them collar response and while using clicker techniques. NOTE: Puppy Raisers should not use a clicker when working with their puppies. This way their pups go into training with a ‘clean slate’ as far as clicker associations.

Obedience and Distraction Training Primary focus is on collar response and responses to praise. These are the communication tools for training; the collar cues the dog's body and the praise motivates the dog to work. Martingale collars are used with all dogs starting training. Dogs requiring firmer collar corrections when distracted also wear a slip training collar, which is used when needed.

Formality in Obedience Commands is introduced: “Sit,” “Down,” “Heel” (formal recall) and “Stay” are introduced as precise positions in relation to the handler. As a guide dog these precise positions are important so the dog does not interfere with or disorient their blind handler. “Come” (informal recall) is worked on leash in a variety of areas and off leash in small-enclosed areas, progressing to off leash in the community runs. Precise “Heel” position while handler is moving is introduced at the same time the dog is learning to walk ahead of the handler when in harness.

Once dogs show an understanding of basic obedience work, distractions are introduced to help teach focus and concentration towards a job. Distractions include other dogs, food, overly friendly people, scents, etc. If a dog demonstrates poor responses to motivation or collar cues, it will be placed on programs to improve their responses. Special programs

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include: different types of play sessions to evaluate the type of handler interaction the dog responds to best, extra time with Instructor (relaxing time) to develop a closer relationship and extra obedience sessions without distractions to improve collar response.

Food Refusal All dogs go through extensive and specialized training in how to accept food reward and how to refuse food in all other situations. This specialized Food Protocol training was designed to handle the delicate challenge of using food in training for a future guide dog and ensure that no negative behaviors will result around food for a future blind handler.

Body Work Development of suitable responses to in depth grooming, pilling, bathing, ear cleaning, teeth cleaning, feeding, playing with a visually impaired handler begin. Body handling responses are evaluated and programs developed to improve issues.

Guidework Training Introduction to wearing the harness: Calm introduction being harnessed and standing with it on, then walking around in harness and wearing it in relaxed settings. Dogs with sensitivity to wearing the harness are put on a TTouch program and wear only the body part until they accept it. Dogs with extreme sensitivity are put on specialized socialization programs for the harness sensitivity.

Treadmill Training Designed to physically train dogs in the mechanics of a rhythmic gait/speed and maintenance of that gait while leading in harness. The appropriate pace and speed are also identified for each individual dog during treadmill training. All dogs receive a very systematic and careful introduction to walking on the treadmill to ensure they are not only safe while using it but enjoy their time on the treadmill. The introduction techniques are so successful that it’s common to see dogs trying to get on the treadmill before their turn while waiting for only their second session.

NOTE: Puppy Raisers should never put their pups on treadmills or escalators. Dogs in treadmill training are introduced to the “Forward,” “Halt,” and “Hopp-Up” commands while learning to pull into harness with a straight body position. Dogs receive 3 treadmill sessions before beginning harness workouts downtown with their instructors.

Physical Agility Development Dogs are introduced to low height agility obstacles to promote confidence on unusual surfaces and develop coordination for stair and escalator work. Methods

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used teach the dogs careful placement of their feet using caution on the obstacles at slow speeds (very different from methods of teaching pet dogs agility). Coordination training in how to physically back up is introduced at this time and will continue for several weeks to prepare dogs for future traffic avoidance training. In traffic avoidance, dogs must back up in a straight line while facing the oncoming vehicle. This Back-up training program teaches dogs the mechanics of backing up in a very positive and fun way.

Obstacle Course Dogs are walked, on leash, through gradually more challenging clearance courses with obstacles. Leash cues are used by Instructor to move in the desired way a finished guide would move. Dogs are encouraged to walk slightly ahead of Instructor. Courses are designed so that new dogs will not need to stop, but keep moving to work the safe path out of the course.

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PHASE 3 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG TRAINING

Approximately Weeks 3 & 4

“The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs™“(BEST Guide Dogs™)

Obedience and Distraction training Formality in obedience responses continues: “Sit”, “Down”, “Heel” (formal recall), and “Stay” are more intensively trained. More precise positioning next to the handler is expected, so that the dog will not interfere with or disorient a blind handler. “Come” (informal recall) response continues on leash and in progressively larger enclosed areas of both cement and grass off-leash. Precise “Heel” position while handler is moving is introduced and when in harness dog learning to walk ahead of the handler.

“Over Here” is introduced. Response is to change sides, behind handler’s back, to the instructor’s opposite side. This is to make it easier for a blind handler to maneuver the dog safely through heavy doors on the dog’s side, revolving doors, store turnstiles, etc.

General collar response and praise response: More difficult distractions are introduced. Various dog breeds, people-food, very solicitous people, unusual scents. Specialized programs continue: kennel enrichment, harness socialization, etc. Body work: Responses to detailed grooming, pilling, bathing, ear cleaning, teeth cleaning, feeding, playing, in manners done by a visually impaired handler. Rolling dog over for care and inspection in a variety of environmental situations. Body handling responses continue to be developed and improved.

Canine Welfare Technicians continue to focus on kennel enrichment activities, relaxing time in community run, grooming and campus walks.

Guidework Training BEST Guide Dogs™

Wearing the harness: Dogs are comfortable wearing and working in the physical harness. Dogs having sensitivity to wearing the harness are on specialized programs. Individual dogs not improving in the wearing of a harness would be of concern.

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Pattern Training Pattern Training is a method of introducing guidework behaviors to the young dog in a very positive manner. The instructor causes the correct guiding behavior to happen by cueing the dog before any mistakes are made. Pattern Training immediately introduces the young dog to all guidework responses without taking confidence away from the dog. The dog is prevented from making any errors while experiencing all of the basic guidework mechanics. In this way the instructor keeps all guidework related learning very upbeat for the dog. Obedience commands are used separately from guidework commands to regain attention on the instructor. Once the dog is again attentive, the pattern training of guidework behavior resumes. Pattern training lasts for approximately 4 weeks. During that time, techniques gradually progress to more “standard” training, which gives the guide dog more freedom to make errors.

During Pattern Training, dogs can be worked in a variety of environments, even challenging work areas, because the instructor causes the right responses to happen. Only extremely advanced work areas are avoided, such as those with crowds of pedestrians and stressful environments.

Dogs are being introduced to and learning these guidework behaviors:

9 Stopping at streets, regardless of the type of curb or wheelchair ramp 9 Clearing for the handler on the right side 9 Clearing for the handler on the left side 9 Clearing for the handler above the dog’s head 9 Crossing streets in a straight line or adjusting that line to reach the up curb on the other side. [Dogs also receive targeting training in how to seek out the up curb by placing their front feet on that curb] 9 Moving forward at a consistent pace on the command “Forward” 9 Resuming that consistent pace on the command “Hopp-Up” or moving closer to a stopping point 9 Stopping and standing stationary on the command “Halt” 9 Leading the handler in a 90 degree turn to the right and pick up the new travel line on “Right” 9 Leading the handler in a 90 degree turn to the left and pick up the new travel line on “Left” 9 To ease off on the amount of pull into the harness on the command “Steady”

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Physical Agility Programs Continue as in Phase 2.

Obstacle Course Progression: Dogs continue to be walked through the course on leash if they are not ready to work it in harness. Some dogs progress to guiding through clearance course with obstacles, still being leash cued by Instructor to move in the desired way a finished guide would move. Course design becomes more difficult, requiring more angled clearance moves by the dogs but not requiring a stop.

Socialization Training: 9 Dogs are introduced to riding in the training van crates. A separate configuration of crates, just like in the vans is located in the kennel complex. All dogs are introduced to jumping in and out of this “mock” crate set before being put in an actual training van. Dogs then experience loading and unloading from crates in the van, riding comfortably and quietly, and waiting quietly in the van for their turn at a training route. 9 Dogs may be identified during this Phase for specialized socialization programs for fears or distraction. (Training Supervisor makes those decisions) 9 Food protocol training continues – teaching how to avoid and refuse food on the ground or offered by others.

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PHASE 4 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG TRAINING

Approximately Weeks 5 & 6 “The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs™“(BEST Guide Dogs™)

Obedience and Distraction Training Continued development of collar and praise responses: Work on development of reliable responses in various environments (formal, informal and during guidework). Progression is to the extent where minimal repeat commands or leash cues are necessary. Instructor is beginning to act and handle dog as a visually impaired person would.

Difficult Distractions Continue as in Phase 3. Body handling responses Continue as in Phase 3 to develop consistent response and improvement where necessary.

Guidework Training Dogs are comfortable wearing and working in the physical harness. Individual dogs still having problems wearing a harness would be of concern, but still kept on socialization programs to improve behavior.

Pattern Training Progression Instructors are now allowing the dog more freedom to make decisions and to make some mistakes. When errors begin to occur, instructors will show the dog the correct answer before they get confused. Basic level guidework responses are being directed to the dog as a blind handler would. The dog is experiencing all guidework behaviors with the instructor still patterning any advanced responses. Progression with guidework responses to the extent that each dog can maintain a straight line of travel with the Instructor under blindfold and respond to each command consistently with minimal leash gestures or leash cues. Introductions to maintaining a line of travel in spite of a visually impaired handler’s natural body movements. Focus on developing the working pace and pull that will be the final pace and pull for client. Responsible lead lessons for each dog occurs at the end of the of pattern training. Responsibility in work responses is gradually increased and tested. They are now

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learning how to pull more responsibly and consistently into the harness chest piece on command and maintain a straight line of travel while moving. Appropriate level of pull and pace is established for each individual dog.

Physical Agility Programs Continue as in Phase 3. Obstacle Course Progression Dogs are now guiding in harness through clearance course with obstacles still being leash cued, if necessary, to move in the desired way a finished guide would move. Course design becomes more difficult, requiring more angled clearance moves by the dogs. Clearances requiring a stop are introduced.

CWTs continue to focus on kennel enrichment, relaxing time in community run, grooming and campus walks.

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PHASE 5 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG TRAINING

Approximately Week 7

“The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs™ “(BEST Guide Dogs™)

Notable Accomplishment: Preliminary Obedience Testing Responses to “Sit”, “Down”, “Heel”, “Come”, “Stay” are demonstrated to a Training Supervisor and expected to be understood, fairly consistent and generally gained with single commands. Command responses are documented. Heavy distraction offered during exercises. Demonstration of food refusal required. General ease of body handling is demonstrated.

Body Work Body handling responses continue for consistent response and improvement where necessary. New Handlers added to body handling experiences.

Guidework Training: Formal Harness Training: Dogs now have full freedom to make decisions and some mistakes with normal guidework responses. When errors begin to occur, instructors will continue to show the dog the correct answer before they get confused. The instructor will still pattern challenging and advanced guiding decisions and responses.

Difficult travel line problems and open parking lot areas are worked to further establish responsible line stability.

Challenging animal and food distractions are set up for new area guidework routes.

Instructors practice short blindfold sessions with their dogs, having a teammate spot them for safety. This gives them information regarding what guidework behaviors are strong and weak in an individual dog, allowing them to focus on improving those weaker areas.

Notable Accomplishment - Preliminary Blindfold Testing

Instructor under blindfold works dog on an urban/suburban area route, a distance of approximately 14 blocks. Passing requirements are for dog to display an

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understanding of safe guidework skills and focus on work and handler. Obedience exercises are done at some point on route, usually when distraction is present.

Dogs passing Preliminary Blindfold testing will be able to progress to Advanced Guidework Training. Dogs not passing receive further training and are re-tested when ready.

Physical Agility Programs Continue as in Phase 4.

Obstacle Course Progression Dogs are guiding through more challenging clearance courses as more finished guides. Course designs become increasingly difficult, requiring development of problem solving skills and Intelligent Disobedience responses.

Socialization Training Extra socialization assignments are given to individual dogs needing them. Areas that may require additional socialization are harness or surface sensitive dogs and/or dogs with a higher stress levels in the kennel Canine Welfare Technicians focus on extra relaxing times for all dogs during this progressively more stressful learning stage of formal guide dog training. Tools used are community running, kennel enrichment programs, grooming, individual play sessions, office time at desks of staff and relaxing campus walks.

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PHASE 6 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG TRAINING

Approximately Week 8

“The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs™ “ (BEST Guide Dogs™)

Obedience and Distraction Training Continued development and consistent response in various environments 9 Formal Exercises 9 Informal Exercises

Difficult Distractions New animal and common dog interest distractions sought out, response evaluated. Individual distractions that interest each individual dog is worked on separately (i.e. squirrels for some, birds for others). New handlers and instructors are introduced to continue development and monitor consistent responses in various environments (formal, informal and during guidework).

Body Handling New handlers added to body handling experiences. Any problems still present would be of great concern for success as a guide.

Guidework Training Routes continue in suburban areas and progress to downtown urban areas. Focus on improving any response weaknesses noted at preliminary blindfold testing. Major weaknesses have individual programs developed, including transferring dog to another string from more training time.

Socialization Programs Individual dogs may be identified as demonstrating need for specialized socialization programs for fear reactions observed, as training becomes more difficult. (Training Supervisor decisions)

ADVANCED HARNESS TRAINING BEGINS Obstacle Course Progression - Intelligent Disobedience Training Begins Advanced clearance problems are first introduced to the dogs on campus in the obstacle course, then sought out on real environment routes. Situations are set up to introduce disobeying the handler for the sake of safety. Socialization Training Canine Community Programs June 2007

CWTs continue to focus on kennel enrichment, relaxing time in community run, grooming and campus walks during the progressively more stressful stages of formal guide dog training.

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PHASE 7 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG TRAINING

Approximately Weeks 9 & 10

“The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs™ “(BEST Guide Dogs™)

Obedience and Distraction Training

Continued development and consistent responses in various environments (formal, informal and during guidework) and with new handlers.

Advanced Guidework Training Suburban and downtown urban areas with challenging environments Notable Accomplishment -Traffic Conditioning (Week 9) Dogs are introduced to traffic safety problems and shown how to deal with them as a guide. Dogs learn to ‘stop’, ‘hold line’ when stopped, and to ‘back up on their line’ when a vehicle gets too close.

Notable Accomplishment - Formal Traffic Training (week 10)

Dogs are taught responsibility in making emergency decisions with traffic problems. Dogs learn to decide when to ‘stop’, ‘hold line’, ‘back up’ or even ‘scoot forward’ on their travel line for safety of the team. Dog learns to maintain position, face the vehicle, and to proceed on original line when danger has passed.

Supplemental training in ‘backing away’ from a vehicle is given (on campus) to individual dogs who have a difficulty with the response.

Total Barricade Training Training in how to inform the handler of objects totally blocking the travel path and then work safely around them.

Overhead obstacle clearance introduction An overhead clearance is any obstacle that is over the dog’s head. During this part of training the dog is taught to look up and look out for this type of clearance.

Advanced Work Routes (San Francisco & Portland) New work areas introduced to the dogs. Difficult crossings, clearances, line problems, animal distractions, surface issues, curb approach challenges, pedestrian islands. 9 Large City 9 City Traffic patterns 9 Crowded sidewalks

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9 Different Pedestrian climate 9 Large government and business building work 9 Very heavy and close traffic

Pre Matching with Blind Applicants Dogs are identified for individual applicants with special needs and requirements in a guide dog.

Socialization Training CWTs continue to focus on kennel enrichment, relaxing time away from guidework lessons (community run, grooming, play sessions, campus walks, dog massage, Reiki) during more stressful stages of formal guide dog training.

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PHASE 8 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG TRAINING

Approximately Weeks 11 - 13

“The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs™ “(BEST Guide Dogs™)

Obedience and Distraction Training Continued development and consistent responses in various environments (formal, informal and during guidework) and with new handlers.

Guidework Training Advanced Harness Training in a variety of suburban, country and urban areas are worked, including sidewalkless routes.

Sidewalkless technique introduction: Maintaining a travel line on the extreme left of roadways (facing oncoming traffic) with no sidewalk or reasonable shoulder to walk on. How to work around obstacles on the roadway and immediately return to the left edge of the road. Specialized training on the right edge of the roadway in preparation for work areas clients live in with those challenges.

Platform edge exposure work: Learning to avoid the drop off of subway and rail platforms

Light Rail, Subway systems: Introduction and exposure

Overhead Obstacle Clearance training: Continues as in earlier phases

Escalator Training - Boarding/Riding/Exiting: How to safely step onto moving escalators and acquire a safe stance, ride the escalator in that stance without moving until time to anticipate exiting safely with energy.

NOTE: Puppy raisers should never put their pups on escalators.

Intensive Indoor Mall and store work techniques:

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9 Slower pace for indoor work, if appropriate 9 Crowded aisles 9 Elevators 9 Multiple Stairways (Up & Down) 9 Various colors and textures of slick, shiny floors 9 Patience work in shopping situations 9 Intensive food avoidance situations (food court)

Vet Meeting – Review of Health Each dog’s health history to date is reviewed by the staff vet. Viability for care by a visually impaired assessed. Health drop decisions made on some dogs, other individuals given timelines for improvement or other medical procedures/testing.

Socialization Leash relieving exposure on cement begins

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PHASE 9 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG TRAINING

Approximately Week 14

“The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs™ “(BEST Guide Dogs™)

Obedience and Distraction Training Maintenance of consistent responses in various environments (formal, informal and during guidework) and with different handlers.

Advanced Guidework Training and Testing “Finishing” Routes Relaxing residential or country route work, sidewalkless areas, less difficult and straight-forward work for confidence building before class.

Advanced Work Routes New advanced work routes are introduced to the dogs that require advanced decision-making. These route can consist of:

9 City Traffic patterns 9 Difficult crossings 9 Difficult clearance situation 9 Line problems 9 Animal distractions 9 Surface issues 9 Curb approach challenges 9 Pedestrian islands 9 Crowded sidewalks 9 Different Pedestrian climate 9 Additional city bus exposure 9 Additional rapid transit ride exposure

Dogs at this level (almost Class Ready) are worked by unfamiliar or novice handlers (O&M seminars, mock student instruction practice for apprentices, obedience exercises with new students in class learning handling, demonstrations, etc.)

Notable Accomplishment - Final Traffic Testing Instructor is under blindfold on a guidework route. Several traffic checks requiring all types of traffic avoidance responses are given to the dog with instructor unable to predict when they will happen.

Escalator Boarding/Riding/Exiting continues Canine Community Programs June 2007

Dog is progressing to independence in boarding, riding and exiting.

Sidewalkless training Continues as in earlier phases.

Specialized training Customizing a dog’s work for a particular clients needs (slower pace, client who travels with a support cane, balance issues

Platform edge training continues Avoidance of drop-off edges on pedestrian platforms of subway and rail systems. Boarding and exiting trains.

Total Barricade Training continues Informing handler of blocked path and working safely around objects and back on the original travel path.

Advanced overhead obstacle clearance training Continues.

Socialization Leash relieving practice on cement surfaces continues. Dogs who are not comfortable doing this will be placed on additional socialization programs.

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TRAINING PHASE 10 OF FORMAL GUIDE DOG

Approximately Weeks 15, 16 & 17

“The Balanced Education System of Training Guide Dogs™ “(BEST Guide Dogs™)

Obedience and Distraction Training Maintenance training of consistent responses in various environments (formal, informal and during guidework) and with new handlers.

Advanced Guidework Training and testing Advanced Guide Work Routes “Finishing” Routes

Notable Accomplishment – Final Obedience Testing With the instructor under blindfold, an extensive obedience test is given to each dog. All dogs must pass final obedience in order to qualify to take the final blindfold guidework test.

Final Building Testing Instructor under Blindfold – each dog is tested on escalators, elevators, stairs and store work through food court areas.

Final Blindfold Testing Blindfold test on urban street & sidewalk route of 40 to 50 minutes in challenging work area. Obedience exercises required to be demonstrated on the route. Dogs passing are deemed “Class Ready Guides”. Class ready Guide Dogs are fully prepared for matching with students.

Vet Meeting – Review of any Health Concerns Pre Class Vet Physical is done and an accurate height on the dog is recorded (from the ground to the top of the shoulders)

Final Class Preparations New Collars - sizing and assignment. New Harnesses prepared.

Leash Relieving practice on cement surfaces Continue as in previous phase

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Dormitory exposure

Socialization Training All Specialized programs for socializing would be complete for dog to be Class Ready Guide status.

Extra relaxing walks, kennel enrichment and play sessions with the dogs is a primary focus for the Canine Welfare Technicians.

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CLASS

By the time the dogs are finishing their final exams in Phase Ten, the students that are scheduled to arrive for the next class have been confirmed and the preliminary and important process of matching dogs with students begins. Once the students have arrived at the campus and class training has begun, the final decision regarding each student and dog match is made. There will be more dogs available than there are students allowing the best match of student and dog. If your dog is not chosen for this class, it only means that the right student was not available for your dog. If your dog was not chosen, he will continue training with the next string and be available for placement with a student in a future class.

There are 3 different class-training programs available. The four-week class is for new students and some students (retrain) with previous experience using a dog guide. We also have two and three-week retrain classes available. The best training option (two, three or four week retrain class) is recommended during the home interview based on the student’s previous experience current physical condition and handling abilities. All the students begin class so that their graduation is on the same day.

The home interview may recommend in a few situations a student receive in-home training if they cannot attend a class at one of the campuses. If in-home training is approved, the student and dog may not attend the formal graduation on campus. (See “Graduation” portion of this packet for special arrangements afforded to Raisers whose dogs are trained in-home).

Some of the lectures students receive during their training are: ORIENTATION Instructors give an orientation to the dormitory facilities. INTRODUCTION TO THE GUIDE DOG Instruction on how to meet and properly handle a Guide Dog. COMMUNICATIONS WITH A GUIDE DOG Instruction on appropriate commands for a Guide Dog. HARNESS COMMANDS Instruction and review of the obedience and guidework commands for a Guide Dog. DESCRIPTIONS OF GUIDE DOG BREEDS Description of the characteristic of each Guide Dog breed: Labrador Retriever, Golden Retriever, German Shepherd Dog, and Labrador/Golden Retriever cross CONTROL OF A GUIDE DOG Instruction on effective control of a Guide Dog.

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EQUIPMENT FOR A GUIDE DOG Discussion about the different types and appropriate use of Guide Dog equipment. GROOMING Discussion and instruction on grooming, skin care and dental care for maintaining good health of a Guide Dog. RECEIVING YOUR GUIDE DOG Hands-on instruction and discussion prior to meeting your Guide Dog. MAINTAINING A WELL BEHAVED GUIDE DOG Review of daily schedule and use of obedience commands. PROCEDURES FOR FEEDING YOUR GUIDE DOG Instruction on feeding your Guide Dog (when, what, and how much). STUDENT VISITING HOURS Review of visiting hours for students during training at Guide Dogs. FOLLOW YOUR DOG Instruction of proper following position while walking with a Guide Dog. STREET CROSSINGS Discussion of crossing streets with a Guide Dog (listening for traffic, appropriate stops, etc.). MAINTAINING A HOUSE CLEAN DOG Relieving instruction and information on how to maintain consistent house behavior. FLEA CONTROL Discussion of available products and instruction in their use. ORIENTATION & LEARNING ROUTES Review and discussion of the downtown street system and street names. DISTRACTIONS Instruction on control of a Guide Dog when distracted by other animals, people, or environment. REWORKING ERRORS Instruction on how to improve Guide Dog work. WORKING IN BUILDINGS Instruction on locating and working different types of buildings with your Guide Dog (such as stores, malls, supermarkets, etc.). TOYS Instructors discuss and issue recommended toys for Guide Dogs. WHEN YOUR DOG IS HOME ALONE Instruction and practice on having a quiet and well-behaved dog when left alone. Discussion on appropriate times, and length of time, for dog to be left alone.

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TRAFFIC TRAINING & TOTAL BARRICADES Instruction on working around obstacles totally blocking the sidewalk. CARE OF YOUR GUIDE DOG Instruction and review of water, feeding and relieving schedule for a Guide Dog. NUTRITIONAL NEEDS OF YOUR DOG Discussion of nutritional needs, type of dog foods, and recommended amount for feeding each individual dog. THE PUBLIC & YOUR GUIDE DOG Discussion on laws, legislation and the public. TRAVELING WITH YOUR GUIDE DOG Discussion about the different methods of travel with a Guide Dog (city bus, light rail, airplane, etc.). A GUIDE DOG IS REALLY A “DOG” Discussion on how Guide Dogs are raised and trained; how to best adapt you’re Guide Dog to your home. WORKING YOUR GUIDE DOG IN YOUR HOME ENVIRONMENT Instruction on how to transition to your home area with your Guide Dog. GRADUATION Information about meeting your puppy raiser, the graduation ceremony, and departure for home after graduation.

Students begin training with their dogs in residential areas San Rafael or Gresham and in the last part of training to San Francisco or Portland. There are many different situations presented to the teams including public transportation (cars, city buses, subway systems, and ferries), heavy traffic, construction, escalators, areas with no sidewalks, etc.

Our students come from many different walks of life and areas. Towards the end of class, students are given more exposure to areas similar to where they will be working most of the time at home. Students are given tips on how to keep their dogs comfortable in all types of climate changes.

This is a busy and exciting time for the Training staff. They have spent many months nurturing and preparing the dogs for class. The staff puts it this way:

“When we finally get to class I’m ready. You are so proud of the dogs – it’s a process where you really want to see them fly. There is a part of me saying “show those students what you can do!”

“Going into class and making that match (of dog and student) is what it’s all about…seeing people become more and more independent…walking with smiles on their faces.” Canine Community Programs June 2007

The end of the training string signals the culmination of months of hard work by many people at Guide Dogs, both staff and volunteers. From the volunteers that socialize the young puppies and work in other areas on campus, to the immense efforts of you in the puppy raising community, to the dedicated staff, and to our donors… we couldn’t do it without all of you! It is the efforts of all these people that make the ten phases of training possible, and provide us with the foundation to shape a wonderful dog into a highly trained guide dog and companion, and then pair that dog with a partner to become an effective team. This is the mission of Guide Dogs for the Blind.

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GRADUATION

Graduation is the culmination of many years of hard work from many people. Raisers are invited to attend graduation and present the dogs they have raised to their new partners. If you are planning to fly to attend a Guide Dog graduation ceremony, we recommended purchasing refundable airfare, in case something happens to cause your dog to be career changed, passed back or taken out of class at the last moment.

On graduation day, you will have an opportunity to meet the graduate and have your pictures taken together. The pictures will be sent to you after graduation. The graduates will then be seated on the stage. When your name is called, you will go on stage to present the dog to the graduate at the microphone. You will then be given an opportunity to share a few words about your experiences. After the ceremony you will escort the new team to a reception in the dormitory. You will be sent a DVD of the graduation as a keepsake.

Your dog could also be selected as a sponsored team. Donors who have contributed a significant amount towards the cost of training a person and their dog are invited to come to graduation and meet the team they have sponsored. Many times donor teams are chosen based on the area in which the graduate lives or their background, such as being a veteran or in a certain career field. When photos are taken, the donor (if present) will also have their photo taken with the graduate and dog. If your dog and his new partner are a sponsored team, and the donor is present you may be asked to meet the donor at a reception. The Puppy Raising Department will notify you a few days in advance if the graduating team has been sponsored.

Those raisers whose dogs have been matched with students receiving in-home training are welcome to attend graduation, and their name, their dog’s name and the student’s name will be mentioned during the program even though their dogs will not be presented in person.

Individuals who receive their guide dogs through in-home training are often not able to attend the formal graduation with their new guides. The whole purpose of this type of special training is to help a person with a visual impairment who cannot, for health or other personal reasons, attend one of the campus-based training classes. Because of this, Guide Dogs can sometimes arrange for the raiser to visit their dog on campus before it leaves for training. The Instructor will take photos of the working team for the raiser’s keepsake. You may attend graduation and can make a statement at the microphone when introduced. With the graduate’s consent, a statement composed by the graduate may be read by Guide Dogs’ staff. Also with the graduate’s consent, a phone call can be arranged between the raiser and the graduate.

If your dog is chosen for breeding stock, it will also be involved in a graduation at one of our San Rafael graduation ceremonies. Just like presenting a guide, you will have the

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opportunity to present the breeder and make a statement at the microphone when introduced.

Tips to help make graduation more relaxed and enjoyable to all:

• Realize that the student is probably nervous and wants to make a good impression on you. • It’s natural for some raisers to be nervous too; we want you to relax and enjoy yourself. • Please let your first words be a greeting to the student (not the dog). Initiating a handshake is great! (Gently touch the back of the student’s right hand as a greeting if they do not have their arm extended.) • The student may offer you the leash so that you can visit with their dog for a few minutes. Keep in mind that this is a courtesy to you. Please be respectful of the student’s important relationship with their dog and hand the leash back to them in a few minutes. • Take a few minutes to greet the dog you’ve raised; it’s best to stay gentle and calm. Despite your own excitement, try to not increase the dog’s excitement. • Please remember that the dog is working on this day. Expect and encourage him to behave as he would in a working situation involving a crowd. • Indicate an open seat to the student. Ask the student about their class experience. • Feel free to share positive and/or humorous stories about the dog’s puppyhood. Keep in mind that the student has only begun to develop their trust and confidence in their new guide. While sharing normal puppy "challenges" with the student is fine, try not to focus on any negative subjects about raising their dog. • Inquire about the student’s lifestyle, plans or hobbies/career. Keep in mind, the student may or may not want to share this. • Please do not offer the student any training advice, even if asked. • The student will put the harness on the dog when it is time to take photos. The student may also attach alternative control equipment onto their dog, such as a specialized collar or headcollar. • The students’ complete address is sent to you in the letter informing you of the graduation. Many times phone numbers are exchanged but remember that the graduate and you are under no obligation to give each other personal information or communicate in the future. Please respect any privacy wishes that the other may express.

This is truly a day to celebrate! All of the hard work that you have put into your dog has paid off. This new team still has a lot of work to do. When they return home, they will truly begin developing a working relationship based on trust and love. The graduate will receive a yearly veterinary stipend and follow-up visits by licensed Instructors to ensure that the transition goes smoothly. The graduate will look back on this day as the beginning of a new and exciting chapter in their life. And you are a very large part of what has made Guide Dogs’ mission a reality for another visually impaired person!

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CAREER CHANGE DOGS

“Career change” dogs are those who are released from Guide Dogs for the Blind programs, usually to become pets/companions. Some career change dogs go on to other careers such as obedience work, search and rescue, agility, hearing dog or service dog training, tracking, and pet therapy. The dogs that do not graduate as guides or breeders are released from the Guide Dog program for a variety of reasons; usually medical, temperamental, or behavioral.

Guide Dogs is very fortunate to have a large community of raisers and leaders who work very hard to deliver back to us the best possible guide candidates. All raisers should be proud of their efforts and accomplishments regardless if the dog graduates, becomes a breeder, or is career changed. We are immensely proud of the love and dedication that all our volunteers - puppy socializers and testers in our kennels, raisers, leaders, and others - contribute so generously and effectively to help us develop the best puppies possible.

The level of skill, soundness, and health that is necessary for a dog to be considered for guidework is extremely high. A dog must be orthopedically sound, capable of walking for long distances, free from nagging allergies, and in good physical health. An effective guide must exhibit a paradox of behaviors that can be extremely difficult to balance. The dog must be sensitive yet brave, obedient yet independent, loving of the handler yet aloof from strangers when necessary. One small concern may prevent a dog from being issued, resulting in career change.

Our canine population must be large enough to allow us to carefully screen and select the very best guide and breeder candidates. This is essential in order for us to provide the quality of guide that is needed in today's busy world.

All of our dogs, including our career change dogs go on to enrich the lives of people with whom they come into contact. They are wonderful ambassadors for our program, making friends throughout the world for themselves and for Guide Dogs for the Blind. All become wonderful, loving pets either with the family that raised them, a close friend or relative of the raiser, or with an adoptive family who has been screened and carefully selected by the Dog Placement Department at Guide Dogs. The hard work and love that raisers give to our puppies is the largest contributing factor in making career change dogs such great pets, and for this our raisers deserve our heartfelt thanks.

Who can receive a career change dog?

If a dog is career changed from the puppy home or training program • The last raiser to raise the dog has the first option to receive the dog as a pet. • If the last raiser does not wish to keep the dog personally, the previous raiser has the next choice to receive the dog personally.

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• If the dog has had more than two raisers and neither of the previous two wish to keep the dog personally, other previous raisers are offered the dog in the reverse order that they raised. An example of a dog that’s had four raisers: 4th raiser = 1st choice, 3rd raiser = 2nd choice, 2nd raiser = 3rd choice, 1st raiser = 4th choice. • If no raisers of a dog wish to keep the dog personally, raisers have the option of placing a career change dog only with a close family member or a close friend and in the order described above. • The above guidelines for placement options have exceptions at the discretion of Guide Dogs. Exceptions may be based on consideration of: a. the dog's temperament b. the dog's health c. the dog's compatibility with people and pets in the Raiser or adopter home d. the dog's possible effect on a Guide Dog puppy in the home e. instances of abuse or neglect in the home f. incidents of dogs running loose at the home g. questions regarding the raiser's ability to effectively care and control the dog h. inadequate fencing or other housing needs i. previous agreements between transfer homes, leaders, and advisors j. other determinations by Guide Dogs in consideration for the well-being of the dog and/or the household

If a dog is retired from the graduate's home in less than a year • The last person to raise the dog has the first option to receive the dog as a pet. • If the last raiser declines to accept the dog personally, the graduate has the option to keep the dog or place the dog only with a close family member or a close friend. • If both the graduate and the last Raiser decline these options, the dog will be placed by Guide Dogs using the same guidelines as when a dog is career changed in the puppy home or training program.

If a dog is retired from the graduate's home after a year or more • The graduate has the option to keep the dog or place the dog as he or she chooses. • If the graduate declines this option, the dog will be placed by Guide Dogs using the same guidelines as when a dog is career changed in the puppy home or training program.

If a suitable home (one that meets the order of placement described above) cannot be found, Guide Dogs Puppy Raising and Dog Placement Department will individually screen and select a home for the dog • Guide Dogs receives hundreds of inquiries each year from people interested in receiving a career change dog. • Potential homes are screened to determine their suitability to adopt a career change dog, including a home visit/fence check. • Potential adopters must come to Guide Dogs to meet the available dogs. • Individual dogs are matched to individual homes.

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• Dog Placement staff personally interview and introduce dogs to their potential adopters. • GDB charges an adoption fee of $500. • GDB provides follow-up information: books, videos, audio tapes, booklets, training references. • GDB welcomes back any dog that is not compatible with the new home.

How Guide Dogs places the puppies you raise

The process starts when someone notifies us of their desire to receive a dog from our program by submitting a Career Change Application. After careful review, only those who qualify are kept on file. Acceptable applications are entered into our computer database.

When a dog is career changed and the raiser is unable to take the dog back or has no close family member or close friend that can offer a quality home, the dog’s placement becomes the responsibility of the Dog Placement Department. We learn everything we can about the dog: the reason the dog was released from the program, the dog’s history in the puppy raising home (another reason completed project records are so helpful!), the training and socialization history and health history. We review the evaluations done in the field by the puppy raising advisors and, if the dog made it all the way back to the training program, we talk with the instructors and instructor assistants who may have trained and cared for the dog. From all the information we have gathered, we put together a basic profile of the kind of home we are looking for - a family with kids, a retired couple, a home without other dogs or cats, a family who has owned this type of dog before, etc.

By searching the available applications in the database, we develop a list of potential matches. Then, considering the dog's strengths and weaknesses, we spend hours reviewing the applications and talking on the phone with several potential adopters to find a home that seems best suited for the particular dog we are trying to place. Only when we feel we have a possible match do we indicate that we have a dog available. We then describe the dog in detail, always giving both the positives and negatives. It is very important to us to be straightforward about the dog. Our success in locating a permanent home is more likely if there are not a great deal of “surprises” when adopters take their new dog home.

A fence check must be completed before the dog goes to its new home. This check provides an opportunity for us to observe the home environment. Fence checks may be done by GDB staff, leaders or volunteers.

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Not every meeting results in the dog going to that home. Occasionally, in spite of the hours that were spent interviewing the family by phone, the match is inappropriate. Sometimes we deny the placement, and sometimes the family decides that the dog is not right for them. If the campus meeting is not successful, the process begins again to search for a new, more appropriate home.

Taking back your career change dog

Let's suppose that you have just found out that the puppy you so carefully raised has been career changed. Now what?

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Before deciding to take a career change dog back, please ask yourself the following questions • Are you considering taking the dog back only because you feel an obligation to the dog or GDB? • Have you considered that the dog may be a different dog in size and behaviors than the one that you returned for training several months ago? • Can you give the dog the best possible home for the rest of the dog’s life? • Do you have time to spend exercising and playing with the dog? • Does everyone in the home want the dog? • If you are a youth raiser, do your parents want the dog as much as you do? • If you are a youth raiser, will you be going to college or moving into your own home while the dog may be still living? What are your plans for the dog then? • Will the dog get along well with all family members: adults, small children and pets? • Do you have other dogs - a GDB puppy, other career change dogs, or pets – and will you be able to provide each with sufficient individual love and care? • Can you afford the food and veterinary care of a large-breed dog? • Do you currently have a secure, fenced area (yard or dog run) at least 5 feet in height? • If your home has a pool, is it safely fenced? • Will the dog have adequate shelter from both the rain and sun? • Will the dog be inside the house (at least at night)? • How much time will the dog be alone? • If renting, do you have the landlord’s permission to have a dog?

If any of the preceding questions cause doubts, perhaps you would be better off letting a previous raiser accept the dog or letting GDB place the dog.

If you decide to accept the career change dog back as a pet • Guide Dogs will legally transfer the dog to you. • You must complete an "Agreement Confirming Gift of Dog" contract which transfers the dog from GDB to you. • Any transportation costs to return the dog to you are at your expense. • With the exception of a small number of pre-approved cases, veterinary and all other expenses are your responsibility. • If the dog doesn’t work out, please do not hesitate to notify and then return the dog to GDB. • If at any time in the dog's life you transfer the dog to a new home, please complete and return to Guide Dogs a "Supplemental Dog Transfer Form." • Raisers are not allowed to sell career change dogs. • If concerns about a dog's behavior or health arise, please contact the GDB Dog Placement Department's dog evaluation specialist.

Placing your career change dog

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If you decide that you cannot personally keep the dog, you also have the option to place the dog (using the same order of preference as described in "Who Can Receive a Career Change Dog?") If you choose to place the dog yourself, you may only place the dog with a close friend or close family member. Guide Dogs has found that the placements of dogs by raisers with people whom they do not know extremely well are often not successful. If a raiser cannot keep a career change dog as their own or place the dog with a very trusted person, Guide Dogs will happily place the dog.

If you decide to place a career change dog with a close friend or family member, first, carefully ask yourself some questions about the dog • Does the dog have temperament, control, or behavior concerns that make him a challenging candidate for placement? • In offering this dog to a new home, can you be honest with the prospective adopters about all his behaviors, good and bad? • If the dog has problems in the adopters’ home, can you offer the resources to help work through the problem? • If this dog does not work out in his new home, are you willing to take him back or return him to Guide Dogs? • Would this dog be better placed by Guide Dogs’ experienced Dog Placement staff?

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• Do they understand that all dogs have dog behaviors, good and bad, even ones from Guide Dogs? • Do they understand all the responsibility involved in providing a lifetime, loving home for a dog? • Are all their current pets well cared for, including grooming, housing, and vaccinations? • Have they had dogs in the past? What became of these dogs?

These general dynamics can often best predict a dog's happiness in a new home. Refer to the article "Common Career Change Misconceptions" for additional information. If you have any concerns about the success of the proposed placement, please let Guide Dogs select a home instead.

If you decide to place the dog in this new home • Any transportation costs to transport the dog to the new home are yours or the adopters. • Raisers are not allowed to sell career change dogs.

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• With the exception of a small number of pre-approved cases, veterinary and all other expenses are the responsibility of the adopters. • If questions arise in the new home that you cannot answer, please ask the adopters to contact the GDB Dog Placement Department's dog evaluation specialist who will consult with them. • Ask the adopters that if it doesn’t work out to please contact you or GDB directly to return the dog to us.

If you don’t feel right about a potential new owner, tell them "no.”

Thank you for all the love and effort that you spent raising a puppy for Guide Dogs for the Blind. Thank you also for helping us find a permanent, happy home for each dog from our program.

Please help us fulfill our responsibilities by letting Guide Dogs for the Blind Dog Placement staff find homes for any dog in need of a home.

Guide Dogs for the Blind will gladly accept back any dog that is returned to us at any stage of the dog’s life.

We feel a great debt to all our dogs - guides, breeders, and career change - that have contributed to our mission. We have a lifelong responsibility to them all.

Please help us fulfill our responsibility by returning to us any dog that is from our program and that is in need of a home.

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